



Glass 



Book_ 



5 



/ 



so oUO 
in t, r~$ 



V 



MEMORIALS 

OP 

MISSIONARY LABOURS 

WESTERN AFRICA, THE WEST INDIES, 

AND AT THE 

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE : 



WITH HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE OBSERVATIONS, ILLUSTRATIVE OF 

NATURAL SCENERY, THE PROGRESS OF CIVILIZATION, AND THE 

GENERAL RESULTS OF THE MISSIONARY ENTERPRISE. 



WILLIAM MOISTER, 



NEARLY THIRTY YEAE3 A MISSIONARY TO THOSE COUNTRIES, AND LATE GENERAL 

SUPERINTENDENT OF WESLEYAN MISSIONS IN THE CAPE OF 

GOOD HOPE DISTRICT. 



THIKD EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. 
WITH A PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR. 



LONDON : 
SOLD AT 66, PATERNOSTER ROW; 

AND BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. 

1866. 



,1^ 



\* 



\t,(t> 



LONDON : 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICHOLS ; 

46, HOXTON SQUAKE. 



<\ o A M 









J. 



TO 

THE REV. ELIJAH HOOLE, D.D., 

FORMERLY A ZEALOUS, LABORIOUS, AND SUCCESSFUL 

MISSIONARY IN INIHA, 

AND NOW 

THE SENIOR SECRETARY OP THE WESLEYAN-METHODIST 

MISSIONARY SOCIETY, 

THIS VOLUME 

BY THE AUTHOR, 

IN ADMIRATION OF HIS LONG-CONTINUED, ABLE, 

AND FAITHFUL SERVICES AT HOME AND ABROAD, 

AND ALSO 

IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF AGREEABLE FRIENDLY 

AND OFFICIAL INTERCOURSE DURING A PERIOD 

OF MORE THAN THIRTY-FIVE YEARS. 



High on a rock, in solitary state, 
Sublimely musing, pale Britannia sate ; 
Her awful forehead on her spear reclined, 
Her robe and tresses streaming -with the wind : 
Chill through her frame foreboding tremors crept ! 
The mother thought upon her sons, and wept ; 
* # # * * 

Shame fluslrd her noble cheek, her bosom bum'd, 
To helpless, hopeless Africa she turn'd ; 
She saw her sister in the mourners face, 
And rush'd with tears into her dark embrace ; 
" All hail ! " exclaim 'd the empress of the sea, 
" Thy chains are broken. — Africa, be free ! ' 

Montgomery. 



PREFACE. 



Notwithstanding the frequency with which a similar 
apology has been made for appearing in print, the author of 
the following pages may be allowed to say that they have been 
committed to the press in deference to the olt-expressed opinion of 
his friends, that he might further serve the cause of Christian Mis- 
sions, by the publication of a complete narrative of his personal 
labours in foreign lands, with some account of the respective 
countries where he had been called to sojourn. The general 
favour with which his " Memorials " were received, a few years 
ago, both in England and in America, as well as in several of 
the British Colonies, has, moreover, encouraged him to proceed 
with the present volume, on which he has been engaged 
since the failure of his health obliged him once more to return 
to his native land. 

Although this is called a third edition of the Missionary 
Memorials, it is substantially a netv work; the whole having been 
rewritten and greatly enlarged by the addition of many items 
of information with reference to the history of slavery and the 
slave trade, the results of emancipation, the geography and 
natural scenery of Africa and the West Indies, as well as by a 
continuation of the personal narrative during the author's ten 
year's Mission to the Cape of Good Hope. 

The writer has not hesitated to avail himself of every acces- 
sible source of information, with a view to test the facts, inci- 
dents, and dates with which he has had to deal, and to render 
the historical sketches as accurate and interesting as possible. It 
would have been exceedingly inconvenient to make a separate re- 
ference to every work to which he has been indebted; but he desires 
to express his general obligation for the information which he 
has received by the perusal of the missionary publications of 



VI PREFACE. 

the following esteemed brethren and fellow-labourers in the 
Lord's vineyard : — Eevs. William Shaw, President of the 
Conference for the current year, Barnabas Shaw, Thornley 
Smith, William C. Holden, John Morgan, William Fox, 
Peter Samuel, Eichard Sergeant, and Dr. Horsford. He 
wishes also to express his grateful acknowledgment to other 
friends and brethren who have kindly furnished him with valu- 
able information and suggestions by letter, especially to the 
Eevs. William D. Goy, George Eanyell, John Mann, James 
Bickford, and Benjamin Eidsdale. In a work embracing such a 
wide range of topics, and such a number of statistics, dates, and 
proper names of places and persons, it will not be surprising if 
some errors or omissions should be found to have escaped detec- 
tion, especially as it has required a constant aim at compres- 
sion to keep the work within the limits of a portable volume. 
Should any thing of the kind be discovered by his friends, the 
author would feel obliged by its being pointed out to him, with 
a view to correction, in the event of a future edition. 

The preparation of this work for the press has indeed been 
a " labour of love ; " and often has the heart of the writer 
thrilled with emotion, and overflowed with gratitude to God> 
whilst reviewing the way in which the Lord has led him these 
many years in the wilderness, and whilst marking once more 
the many interpositions of Divine Providence which he has 
experienced. 

Should the perusal of these Memorials tend to increase the 
reader's sympathy, love, zeal, and benevolence in the cause of 
Christian Missions, the design of the author will be answered, 
and God alone shall have all the praise. W. M. 

Elm Grove, Newport, 
Isle of Wight, March \Wi> IS 66. 



€ntnt$. 



PAET I. 

WESTERN AERICA. 

CHAPTEE I. PASE 

The Chaeactee of the Countey 1 

CHAPTEE II. 
The native Population 22 

CHAPTEE III. 

Afeican Slaveey and the Slave Teade 48 

CHAPTEE IV. 

EUROPEAN AND AiMEEICAN SETTLEMENTS 70 

CHAPTEE V. 
English Settlements and Missions 87 

CHAPTEE VI. 
Commencement op Peesonal Laboues 118 

CHAPTEE VII. 
Eiest Voyage up the Gambia 142 

CHAPTEE VIH. 
Second Voyage up the Gambia 160 

CHAPTEE IX. 
Thied Voyage up the Gambia 178 

CHAPTEE X. 

Miscellaneous Incidents 200 

PAET II. 

THE WEST INDIES. 

CHAPTEE I. 
Desceiption of the Islands 227 

CHAPTEE II. 

The Colony of Demekasa 251 



Till CONTEXTS. 

CHAPTEE III. PAGE 

The Island of Bakbadoes 276 

CHAPTEE IY. 

The Island of St. Vincent .. 302 

CHAPTEE V. 

The Island of Grenada 329 

CHAPTEE VI. 
The Island of Tobago 353 

CHAPTEE VII. 
The Island of Trinidad 367 

CHAPTEE VIII. 
Supplementary Incidents 394 

part in. 

THE CAPE OE GOOD HOPE. 

CHAPTEE I. 
Topographical Survey 417 

CHAPTEE II. 

Native Tbibes and Colonists 443 

CHAPTEE III. 

Wesleyan Missions 462 

CHAPTEE IV. 

Entrance on Personal Mission 486 

CHAPTEE V. 

First Journey to the Interior 510 

CHAPTEE VI. 

Second Journey to the Interior 526 

CHAPTEE VII. 

Third Journey to the Interior 546 

CHAPTEE VIII. 

Concluding Incidents and Observations 567 



MEMORIALS 



MISSIONARY LABOURS. 



PAET I. 
WESTEEN AFEICA. 

CHAPTER L 

THE CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 

Geographical Boundaries — General Aspect — Modes of Travelling — Moun- 
tains and Rivers — Fertile Soil — Natural Productions — Palm Oil— Gam- 
Arabic — Bees' "Wax — Ivory — Gold — Vegetables — Fruits — Mode of 
Cultivation — Sowing and Reaping — Threshing — AYinnowing — Natural 
History — Climate — Tornadoes — Noxious Insects — Fevers — Practical 
Suggestions. 

Throughout the entire range of ancient and modern geo- 
graphy, no country has been brought to the notice of British 
Christians possessing stronger claims to their sympathy and aid 
than Western Africa. The very name of that extensive but 
injured portion of the globe is associated, in the mind of the 
genuine philanthropist, with everything which is shocking and 
revolting to the feelings of humanity, as well as derogatory to 
the boasted dignity of our nature. So far as it has yet been 
made known, its history has been written in characters of 
blood ; and unfolds to us a tale of cruelty, oppression, and wrong, 
such as the annals of crime have scarcely equalled in any other 
country in the darkest ages. And, although the claims of our 
sable brethren have, of late years, been urged upon us more 

B 



4 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

serpents, or beasts of prey, to which he is constantly exposed. 
In some of the more open districts, horses are occasionally used 
for the saddle ; but they are not generally employed as beasts 
of burden, or for long journeys. Indeed, on some parts of the 
continent, as Cape Coast, Ashanti, and other places, from some 
peculiarity in the herbage or in the climate, horses cannot live. 
As often as they are introduced from other places, they decline 
in their condition, and ultimately dwindle and die. Camels 
even share the same fate, although horned cattle thrive pretty 
well. When long journeys have to be performed over land, 
Europeans are, in some places, carried by the native bearers in 
hammocks or chairs, according to the plan adopted in India, 
whilst others follow with the baggage and provisions of the 
traveller. In some parts of the country, however, we travel 
chiefly by water. The mighty rivers which wend their way in 
various directions towards the sea supply, to some extent, the 
want of public roads ; and appear to have been designed by 
Providence as so many highways to the interior of Africa ; for 
which purpose they are already used, to a considerable extent, 
in many places. 

The native tribes living in the neighbourhood of the prin- 
cipal streams, lakes, lagoons, and creeks, employ vessels of 
various kinds to transport themselves and their merchandise 
from place to place ; and it is almost as common to meet boats 
or canoes on some of the rivers, as you sail along, as it is to 
meet horses and carriages on the public roads in England- 
Some of the canoes used by the natives are large and handsome 
vessels. For, although the hulk is made of the trunk of a 
single tree, hollowed out with great skill, it is frequently sixty 
or seventy feet long, and six or seven feet broad, being occa- 
sionally raised at the sides with planks, and beautifully 
ornamented with carved work. A canoe of the largest class is 
generally manned with twenty-four Negroes, who sit on the 
edge or gunwale of the vessel, twelve on each side, and propel 
it forward at a rapid rate, with paddles about three feet long, 
which they ply with remarkably dexterity, beating time to a 
tune which they sing with much spirit to some extempora- 
neous song made to suit the occasion. Thus the scene is 



CHAP. I. — CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. O 

rendered quite lively and animated when a fleet of these native 
craft are sailing in company ; for they make the surrounding 
forest ring with their merry songs, as they dash along through 
the placid water. 

The principal rivers of Western Africa, to which allusion has 
just been made, are the Niger, Gambia, Senegal, Sierra Leone } 
Yolta, Mesurado, Bonny, Calabar, Nunez, Pongas, and the Bio 
Grande. Most of these majestic streams take their rise in a 
range of mountains in the interior, which runs nearly parallel 
with the coast, usually called the Kong Mountains ; and, after 
watering extensive and fertile regions, empty themselves into 
the Atlantic at various points on the coast. The source and 
termination of the river Niger were, for a long time, unknown ; 
and their discovery was in vain attempted, until the successful 
researches of the celebrated Mungo Park, and the intrepid 
Landers, who ultimately solved the grand problem. The 
former ascertained that it took its rise in the mountains to 
which we have referred ; and the latter found that, after 
flowing in a winding course about two thousand miles through 
Central Africa, it discharged its mighty volume of waters by a 
number of large estuaries into the Bight of Benin. These real 
mouths of the Niger were formerly regarded as so many 
separate rivers ; and were known as the Brass river, the Nun 
river, the Old Calabar, the New Calabar, &c. But now it is 
evident that a vessel may ascend by any one of these to the 
very heart of Africa ; and, at the proper season of the year, 
arrive at Eabba, Sego, or Timbuctoo, on the banks of the Niger. 

The Gambia may be fairly classed among the largest and 
most important rivers of Western Africa ; and it justly stands 
next in rank to the majestic Niger. The banks and islands of 
this truly noble river were the scene of the writer's missionary 
labours and travels, whilst resident in that country : a more 
particular account of this locality may, therefore, be naturally 
expected. But, such is the similarity both of the general 
aspect of the country, and of the character and habits of the 
people throughout the principal portion of Western Africa, that 
the account here given of them may be regarded as of general 
application. 



6 PAUT I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

The river Gambia takes its rise at the northern extremity of 
the Kong Mountains, not far from the sources of the Niger and 
the Senegal ; and, after watering a beautiful and fertile country, 
through which it wends its serpentine course for nearly a thou- 
sand miles, it empties itself into the Atlantic Ocean to the 
south of Cape Verd, in latitude 13° 30' north, and longitude 
15° west. It is about twelve miles wide at the mouth ; but on 
proceeding upwards we soon find its width contracted to about 
three miles. Thus it continues to vary from one to three miles 
in width for a considerable distance ; sometimes, however, 
extending itself so as to present the appearance, after the rainy 
season, of a vast inland sea. It is navigable for vessels of fifty 
or sixty tons' burden for upwards of four hundred miles, at 
which point further progress is interrupted by a series of rapids 
known as the Falls of Baraconda. In the dry season, the 
influence of the tides is felt to a distance of more than three 
hundred miles from the sea ; and the larger vessels of the 
European merchants avail themselves of this circumstance in 
navigating the stream, as the breeze is frequently rather feeble? 
being impeded by the surrounding forests. On ascending an 
eminence, in the upper parts of the river, the prospect pre- 
sented to the view is frequently of a charming character. On 
the right hand and on the left extensive forests of the richest 
foliage may be seen waving in the wind, with here and there a 
native town with its clearings of cultivated ground ; whilst, on 
looking towards the sea, we behold the majestic Gambia glitter- 
ing in the sun, like a silvery thread, as it silently flows in its 
tortuous course towards the mighty ocean. When sailing on 
the river itself, the scenery is, in many places, very interesting. 
The margin of the water is, for more than a hundred miles, 
lined with dense masses of the mangrove tree, — a beautiful 
evergreen, with shining leaves of deep sreen, not unlike the 
laurel cf our own country. These mangroves flourish only 
where the ground is low and swampy, and saturated with salt 
water, at the flow of each successive tide; but. as every tree 
sends down a number of branches, each of which in time 
becomes a tree, the whole forms an impenetrable mass of 
jungle. On ascending further into tiie interior, the banks of 



CHAP. I. — CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 7 

the river are found to be more elevated, and the ground drier. 
and frequently covered with forest trees of gigantic stature. 
Throughout its entire length, the Gambia is studded with beau- 
tiful island?, on two of which, St. Mary's and Macarthy's, 
British settlements have been formed. Of these, and some 
other important places on the banks of the river, an account 
will be given in a future chapter. 

TVith the exception of the sandy deserts and rocky mountains 
already referred to, and which occupy a comparatively small 
portion of the vast continent, the soil of Western Africa is 
generally rich and fertile. At the close of the rainy season* 
vegetation of every description springs up with amazing 
rapidity ; and, with the application of ordinary skill and 
industry, the land n-ould be remarkably productive. Perhaps 
we should not greatly err, if we were to assert that no country 
in the world surpasses this in the abundance of its natural 
resources. The vast alluvial plains on the banks of the nume- 
rous rivers and creeks near the coast appear well adapted for 
the cultivation of hemp, indigo, cotton, coffee, ginger, arrow- 
root, sugar, rice, and other articles peculiar to the tropics ; 
whilst the uplands, in the interior districts, produce the 
finest specimens of timber from the mahogany to the famous 
camwood. There also may be seen the cocoa-nut and the 
palm, with their lofty plumes gracefully waving in the breeze. 
The palm tree is a great favourite with the natives, inasmuch as 
it yields the refreshing wine of which they are so passionately 
fond. They also extract from the pulp of the nut the cele- 
brated palm oil, which has, of late years, become a prime article 
of export, upwards of 20,000 tons having been exported to 
England in one year. The value of palm oil now exported 
from West Africa amounts to £1,500,000 per annum. Large 
quantities of gum-arabic are collected annually in the country 
which extends between the Senegal and the Gambia, and on the 
borders of the Great Desert. This valuable article is found 
exuding from the branches of a small shrub, not larger than the 
mulberry tree, and is gathered at certain seasons of the year for 
exportation to Europe. The natives are also in the habit of 
ranging the forests in search of bees' nests, which they take, 



8 PART I. WESTERN AFRICA. 

not so much for the sake of the honey, as for the wax, which 
lias become an important article of barter with the merchants 
on the coast, who collect it for exportation. Another valuable 
article of merchandise is ivory, which is brought down from the 
interior in considerable quantities, and exchanged, by the 
natives, for various items of British manufacture. 

In directing attention to the native productions and natural 
resources of Western Africa, we must not omit to advert to the 
probable mineral wealth of the country. Some districts appear 
to be literally impregnated with the precious metal ; and we 
have seen, in the possession of one person, several pounds' 
weight of pure gold, collected and prepared for the British 
market. The hills on the banks of the upper Gambia, more- 
over, contain iron and copper ores, which are smelted and 
worked up by the natives into various useful and ornamental 
articles. We are aware that, hitherto, these mineral pro- 
ductions have been only obtained in small quantities, and by a 
slow and laborious process, the gold being generally collected 
in single grains in the beds of periodical rivers ; but by the 
application of improved modes of mining, crushing, and smelt- 
ing the ore, it is probable that important results would be 
realized. 

Notwithstanding the fertility of the soil, and the numerous 
advantages possessed by the country generally, very little has, 
as yet, been done to open up its numerous resources. The 
land, to a considerable extent, lies waste, only very small 
portions having been brought under cultivation. The imme- 
diate wants of the natives, in their present uncivilized state, are 
few, and they literally " take no thought for the morrow." In 
the vicinity of each town or village may be seen the gardens 
and fields of the people, sometimes laid out with a degree of 
neatness and taste truly commendable, but always on a limited 
scale, considering the abundance of land available for culti- 
vation. The most common articles of produce, and those on 
which the natives chiefly subsist, are yams, corn, rice, manioc, 
plantains, pumpkins, melons, onions, cucumbers, ocroes, beans, 
and ground-nuts, with a few other vegetables of minor con- 
sequence. Fruit is also abundant, and of great variety ; as the 



CHaP. I. — CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 9 

orange, banana, sour-sop, guava, pineapple, papwa, and mango 
plums. Most of these fruits, especially the guava and the pine- 
apple, grow wild in the woods at Sierra Leone. 

The native mode of cultivating the ground is somewhat 
peculiar, and deserves a passing notice. The low swampy 
land on the banks of the Gambia appears best adapted for the 
cultivation of rice, which is grown in large quantities. The 
ground is prepared by the women and slaves, before the waters 
of the river have retired into their usual channel, after the 
annual rains. When engaged in this branch of native agri- 
culture, they may be seen wading up to the knees in mud and 
water, tramping the ground with their feet, and breaking the 
clods with their hoes, till they have reduced the whole to a 
proper consistency. The seed is then literally " cast upon the 
waters ; " and as evaporation takes place, it settles in the mud, 
germinates, springs up, and produces an abundant harvest. 
The appearance of a field of rice, as it advances to maturity, is 
not dissimilar to that of one sown with wheat or barley in our 
own country ; and the grain is gathered in, and stored up, in a 
similar manner. 

The drier land, in more elevated situations, is selected for 
Indian and Guinea corn, both of which are produced with very 
little labour. After the ground has been cleared of weeds, and 
becomes moistened with the first showers of rain which fall after 
the dry season, the labourer passes along, merely grazing the 
earth with a hoe, at intervals of two or three feet, drops in the 
seed, covers it up with the foot, and thus the work of sowing is 
accomplished. As the green blade springs up, it only requires 
weeding occasionally, and a plentiful crop is generally secured 
as the result of this trifling labour. The Guinea corn is of two 
or three kinds. When freed from the husk, one sort has the 
appearance of very small peas ; and the other, which is a kind 
of maize, has a striking resemblance to the common canary 
seed. All kinds of corn in Western Africa grow to a great 
height, varying from eight to twelve feet ; and each stem being 
strong and stout, the process of reaping resembles that of 
felling small trees. When the grain is ripe, the husbandman 
strikes at the root of the tall corn stalk with his bill or cutlass, 



10 PAKT I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

and it falls to the ground. The large bushy ears are carefully 
collected into the granary, and the stems are used for fuel, 
fencing, and other domestic purposes. 

The mode of threshing adopted by the natives is also pecu- 
liarly rude and simple. They carry the corn to an elevated 
place in the field, cleared for the purpose, and merely beat out 
the grain with large sticks. The process of winnowing is 
equally simple ; for, selecting a windy day for the purpose, they 
throw up the corn into the air, the breeze blows away the chaff, 
and the pure grain is collected and stored up for mercantile 
purposes, or for home consumption. The native granaries are 
circular buildings, formed of wattled canes, and covered wit li 
thatched roofs. They generally stand on posts eight or ten feet 
high, and are reached by a moveable ladder. This arrangement 
is considered necessary to preserve the grain from the depre- 
dations of the various kinds of vermin, with which the country 
abounds, as well as to make it less accessible to the two-footed 
animals which might be otherwise tempted to help themselves 
to their neighbours' property without permission. 

But the yam is the most highly prized by the natives of 
Western Africa. At this we are not surprised, when we call to 
mind its nutritive qualities, and the ease with which it is 
produced in a climate so well adapted to its growth. It is cul- 
tivated by planting cuttings after the manner of potatoe 
planting in England ; only, the yam being much larger than the 
potatoe, it requires a deeper soil. One yam sometimes weighs 
eighteen or twenty pounds, and would furnish a meal for a con- 
siderable family. In substance this root is more like the 
turnip than the potatoe ; but in taste it resembles neither, par- 
taking more of the nature of bread. In shape it bears a 
striking resemblance to the ginger root, frequently branching 
out in finger-like projections, and other fantastic forms. The 
sweet potatoe is also a valuable edible, somewhat smaller than 
the yam ; and although totally unlike any vegetable in domestic 
use in Europe, it is, nevertheless, eaten wdth relish when the 
taste for it is once acquired. It is cultivated by planting slips 
of the top, which run along the surface of the ground, or climb 
up a pole like a vine. On this account, it is an economical 



CHAP. I. — CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 11 

article of diet, being produced with little labour, and still les9 
expense for seed ; and it is in high repute among the natives. 
The sea coast and the rivers abound with excellent fish ; as the 
dolphin, pilchard, and mullet ; and the market is occasionally 
supplied with mussels, cockles, and oysters.* 

It does not come within our province to dwell at length here 
on the natural history of Western Africa ; but we may briefly 
observe, that no part of the world affords greater variety or 
richer specimens of the wonderful works of God in each respec- 
tive kingdom of nature. "We have already adverted to the indi- 
cations of mineral wealth which appear in different parts of the 
country, as well as to the luxuriant vegetation of the coast, 
which presents such an extensive field for the researches of the 
botanist. The lamented Bowdich did much to elucidate these 
branches of science ; and had he lived to complete his investi- 
gations in the interior, still clearer light would, no doubt, have 
been thrown upon the subject. The wild animals, which haunt 
the rivers and roam about the forests, are very numerous. The 
most prominent of these are the lion, leopard, hyasna, elephant, 
hippopotamus, crocodile, baboons, and monkeys of various 
kinds, from the savage gorilla to the smallest species, so 
easily domesticated in dwelling-houses. A great variety of 
serpents might also be enumerated, from the gigantic boa-con- 
strictor to the smallest snake that glides among the grass. The 
specimens of the feathered tribe are likewise numerous ; for we 
have seen in Western Africa the ostrich, maraboo, crown bird, 
guinea fowl, vulture, wild turkey, partridge, dove, kingfisher, 
canary, mocking-bird, humming-bird, and parrots and paro- 
quets of various kinds, with an almost endless variety of small 

* There is a curious circumstance connected with African oysters which 
may he mentioned here, for the edification of the youthful reader. They 
gro/.c upon trees ; and we have seen a fine crop brought to market, the 
oysters still adhering to the branches on which they had grown. Be not 
incredulous, and we will explain. There are no rocks to which the young 
oysters can adhere ; but there are the roots and branches of mangrove trees 
in abundance, which are submerged by every flowing tide : to these the 
young oysters attach themselves, and on these they live and grow till they 
are matured, when the natives come and chop of the branches, throw them 
into their canoes, and offer them for sale, as already stated. 



12 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA.. 

birds of the most splendid plumage, exhibiting every colour of 
the rainbow. It is remarkable, however, that these exquisitely 
beautiful birds, with the exception of the canary, are generally 
not birds of songs. In travelling through the woods a few 
pleasant chirping notes may be heard, but nothing to be com- 
pared with the continuous cheerful warbling of the blackbirds, 
thrushes, larks, and linnets, of our own highly favoured country. 
But the most annoying creatures in Western Africa are those 
belonging to the insect tribe. With care one may manage to 
keep out of the way of the larger animals, or, if an encounter be 
inevitable, the enemy may be vanquished, and there is an end of 
the contest ; but it is utterly impossible to escape from, or to van- 
quish, the endless hosts of centipedes, scorpions, flies, cockroaches, 
ants, and innumerable other foes, not to be mentioned, by which 
one is constantly assailed. As several of the above-named 
living creatures have come across the writer's path in the course 
of his travels, they may be more particularly noticed in the 
chapters devoted to his personal narrative. 

But the greatest drawback to our pleasure in contemplating 
Western Africa as a country is the character of the climate. 
The seasons are divided into dry and rainy, which are marked 
with a distinctness not known in other parts of the world. 
With a slight variation on ditferent parts of the coast, the dry 
season commences about the month of September, and con- 
tinues till May following. During these nine months not a 
shower of rain is seen to fall, and the ground becomes parched 
and dry ; but during the remaining three months of the year the 
rain descends in torrents, day and night, with scarcely any inter- 
mission.* The principal rivers now overflow their banks like the 

* The following comparison may serve to give a clearer view of the 
quantity of rain which falls in the course of the year in Western Africa. 
It is compiled from the best available sources. The Senegal estimate is from 
the pen of Dr. Lind, and that for Sierra Leone is furnished by Dr. 
"Winterbottom ; whilst the one for the Gambia is from our own obser- 
vations : — 

INCHES 

Senegal, Western Africa, in three months 115 

Gambia, do. do. 101 

Sierra Leone, do. do. '•••• 86 

Kingston, Jamaica 83 



CHAP. I. — CHATtACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 13 

Nile, and the low lands are completely inundated for scores of 
miles. When the rains in the interior begin to subside, the 
waters gradually retire into their usual channels ; but they leave 
large tracks of country still partially submerged, and presenting 
to the view a succession of pestilential swamps. The sun now 
pours his fiery rays upon these extensive marshes ; the waters of 
which soon become stagnant, as evaporation takes places ; and, 
charged as they are with vast accumulations of putrid animal 
and vegetable matter, they emit effluvia almost unbearable. 
The fatal marsh miasma, thus generated, is borne on the wings 
of the wind over the country at large, and frequently carries 
fever, desolation, and death to the habitations of thousands. 
After many years' experience in other tropical countries, we 
regard this peculiarity in the climate of Western Africa as the 
real cause of its pre-eminent unhealthiness. 

The rainy season is ushered in by the appearance of sheet 
lightning, which is seen flickering on the horizon at short inter- 
vals for several successive nights, and which sometimes illumi- 
nates the whole heavens. Then follow a succession of tornadoes. 
These are violent thunderstorms, accompanied by circumstances 
of an alarming character. The sky, which has so long been 
bright and cloudless, begins to assume a sombre aspect. Dense 
masses of clouds are seen to gather in the east, till the whole 
heavens are overcast as with a sable mantle. Now the lightning 
begins to flash with fearful vividness, and the thunder roars in 
awful peals, resembling the crashing noise produced by the dis- 
charge of numerous fields of artillery. These fearful manifes- 
tations are followed by the sudden rushing forth of the wind, 

Calcutta, India 81 

Kendal, Westmoreland 56 

Rome 39 

Liverpool 33 

Edinburgh 24 

London 21 

Berlin 20 

Petersburg 16 

Thus it appears that a larger quantity of rain falls, on an average, in three 

months in Western Africa than in England in three years, although we 

sometimes regard this as a rainy country. 



14 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

like a prisoner bursting loose from his chains. Then the rain 
pours down in torrents, as if the windows of heaven were 
opened ; and the elements of nature, including earth, sky, and 
sea, appear mingled in fearful conflict ! As the tornado is seen 
to approach, it is necessary to secure windows and doors, and 
everything about the house which is likely to be affected by the 
tempest ; but, notwithstanding every precaution, considerable 
damage is frequently done, in the unroofing of houses, the up- 
rooting of trees, and the destruction of fences. But the vessels 
in the rivers and on the sea fare the worst on these occasions, 
being sometimes completely capsized by the suddenness with 
which the gale sets in before the men on board have time to 
shorten sail, or prepare for the emergency. 

The heat is frequently intense during the dry season, the 
thermometer sometimes rising as high as from 95° to 105° in the 
shade. For several months, however, the heat on the coast is 
tempered by a gentle sea-breeze, which rises every morning and 
blows during the day with tolerable regularity. At the opposite 
season of the year, when the land-breeze prevails for a short 
time, and the harmattan winds blow across the sandy deserts in 
the interior, the heat is very oppressive, reminding one of the 
hot air which proceeds from the mouth of a furnace. This we 
have found so intense as to produce extreme dryness of the skin, 
with parched lips, as well as to damage sundry articles of fur- 
niture in the house, cracking the glass and china ware on the 
sideboard, &c. But this most unpleasant wind soon passes 
away, and we hail with joy the return of the refreshing sea- 
breeze. On the other hand, the rainy season is marked by a 
state of the atmosphere the very reverse of that which we have 
just described. The ground being everywhere completely satu- 
rated, and in many places inundated, the fierce rays of the sun, 
which occasionally burst through the clouds, rapidly accelerate 
the process of evaporation, and the exhalations which arise are so 
dense that a thick mist is frequently seen to prevail, and the 
air is rendered peculiarly humid. We have often seen the w T alls 
of the interior of the house steaming with water, from the con- 
densation of the vapours which prevailed ; and we have some- 
times been obliged to light a fire in the stove in our bed-room, 



CHAP. I. — CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 15 

even when the weather was hot and sultry, simply to rarefy the 
air, and dispel the damp, before we could retire to rest with 
safety. 

The year is further subdivided by the natives into lunar 
months, or "moons," as they term them ; and the time of the 
day is noted by the altitude of the sun in the heavens, clocks 
and watches being out of the question. The clay varies only 
about an hour in length during the whole year, the country 
being situated entirely within the tropics. The twilight is of 
short duration ; for no sooner does the sun descend beneath the 
w r estern horizon, than night begins to spread her sable mantle 
over the earth. This is very pleasant in the dry season, 
especially when it is moonlight ; for now the air is comparatively 
cool, and all nature is tranquil. But in the wet season the 
case is very different. At this period of the year, no sooner 
have the last rays of daylight departed, than the reptile and 
insect tribes begin their nightly song. The discordant noise 
produced by the croaking of the frogs, the chirping of the 
crickets, cockroaches, and beetles, the flapping and screaming 
of bats, and the buzzing of myriads of mosquitoes, is almost 
deafening. Multitudes of these noxious creatures are attracted 
into the house by the light, and sometimes cover the walls of 
the room in which you are sitting ; even extinguishing the 
candle or lamp by crowding around it, regardless of the conse- 
quences. It is at this season of the year that the mosquitoes 
especially are so troublesome ; for, notwithstanding the precaution 
of providing net curtains to the beds, and other means of 
defence, they still penetrate, and by their perpetual buzzing 
and their poisonous stings they frequently deprive one of 
sleep for several nights in succession. 

It is towards the close of the annual rains, when the exhala- 
tions from the swampy ground are so sensibly felt, that the 
sickly season is considered to commence. JS'ow the natives 
themselves are frequently attacked with sickness ; and among 
the Europeans the " old hands " expect the usual attacks of 
ague and fever, whilst the " new comers " have to pass through 
their " seasoning." This process is, undoubtedly, more painful 
and hazardous than the ordinary attacks of fever, which may be 



16 PART T. — WESTEKN AFRICA. 

expected to follow at intervals, and from which none need 
hope to escape. At first, the patient is attacked with severe 
headache, followed by a fit of shivering, which frequently con- 
tinues for several hours, notwithstanding the additional covering 
which. may be applied to his person. Then comes the hot 
stage, during which the skin is dry and burning, whilst the 
action of the pulse is quick and violent. The actual heat of the 
body at this stage of the disease is almost incredible ; a person 
in health hardly being able to bear his hand in contact with the 
forehead of the sufferer. The time which this dry burning fit 
continues varies in different persons, according to the nature of 
the attack, or the constitution of the patient. If everything 
proceeds favourably, it may be expected to terminate in two or 
three days ; but if it continue longer, danger may be appre- 
hended, as few have survived the fifth day without any 
remission of fever. When the fever breaks, the dry burning 
stage is followed by copious perspiration, when the dangerous 
crisis is considered to be past, and a speedy recovery is antici- 
pated. The fever, however, frequently assumes the intermittent 
form, and returns every alternate day, with a regularity which 
is surprising ; but these periodical attacks are trifling, and of 
short duration, compared with the " seasoning ; " and the 
patient can frequently move about on the day which intervenes 
between them, which he calls his " good day." 

As all West African fevers are more or less of the bilious type, 
the mode of treatment has generally been simple and uniform. 
Calomel, in combination with rhubarb or jalap, is freely 
administered immediately on a person being attacked, and 
Dover's Powder has been found useful in aiding perspiration. 
During the intermission, the sulphate of quinine is resorted to, 
as an infallible remedy against the return of fever; and it 
scarcely ever fails, if a sufficient quantity, say twenty-five grains 
can only be received into the system in the interim, by taking 
it in small quantities every two or three hours. As soon as the 
patient becomes convalescent, careful nursing and constant 
attention to diet are of the greatest possible importance. 

There is nothing very alarming in the common country fever 
to a person with a good sound constitution, and of temperate 



CHAP. I. — CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 17 

habits ; but we are occasionally visited on the coast with an 
epidemic in the form of yellow fever. From continued observa- 
tion, it has been found that this fearful scourge visits Western 
Africa every six or seven years. It is impossible to say through 
what medium it comes : whether it is conveyed by the filthy 
state of the slave ships, or by American vessels coming from 
the West Indies, or through the atmosphere, like the mysterious 
cholera, none can tell. When this extraordinary epidemical 
disease makes its appearance, considerable alarm is excited, 
inasmuch as it is infectious and contagious in a manner quite 
different from the annual remittent and intermittent fevers 
already described. It has, moreover, proved much more fatal 
than any other disease known on the coast, spreading with 
fearful rapidity, and sometimes carrying off one half of a whole 
community. The "yellow fever" is easily distinguished from 
fevers of the common bilious type, not only by the yellow or 
jaundice-like complexion which it gives to the sufferer, but 
especially by the aggravated form of the attack, and by the 
circumstance that it is invariably attended with the " black 
vomit," which generally occurs just before the patient expires. 
It is worthy of remark, however, that this awful pestilence is 
unknown in the interior of the country ; and, we believe, it has 
never yet made its appearance so far east as the coast of 
Guinea. 

The writer is aware that very different and conflicting 
accounts have been given by different persons as to the real 
character of the climate of Western Africa ; and he is anxious to 
present, as far as possible, an impartial view of the subject, 
without going to either of the extremes into which he conceives 
some others have been betrayed. It has sometimes occurred 
that a naval or military officer has visited the coast, in the 
middle of the dry season, when everything wore the appearance 
of health and activity ; and, being charmed with the natural 
scenery, he has returned to England, after a brief sojourn, and 
published an account of his travels, eulogizing the country in 
the most unqualified terms, and scouting the idea of the un- 
healthiness of the climate. Had such a transient visitor 
remained on the coast all the year round, his views might have 

c 



13 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

been considerably modified. O.t the other hand, a traveller 
visits the coast at the most sickly season of the year, and is 
naturally appalled at the scenes of sickness and death which he 
beholds. He narrowly escapes with his life, and brings an evil 
report of the land ; declaring that the country is not fit for 
Europeans to inhabit ; and that ail the Missions, and even the 
British settlements themselves, ought to be at once and for ever 
abandoned. After many years of personal experience in this 
and other tropical countries, and after having had the fever 
scores of times, we are of opinion that whilst the climate of 
Western Africa is undoubtedly one of the worst in the world, it 
is not so bad as to render hopeless our best efforts to neutralize, 
in some degree, its baneful influence, and to grapple success- 
fully with tie difficulties with which we have to contend in our 
endeavours to extend the blessings of Christian civilization to 
this interesting, but long-neglected, country. 

The following facts and figures are respectfully submitted, as 
illustrative of the true character of the climate of Western 
Africa. In the course of twenty years, from 1S04- to 1824, the 
Church Missionary Society sent out to Sierra Leone eighty-five 
Missionaries, and during this period fifty-four died, and fourteen 
returned to England with shattered health. In 1S35, there 
remained on the station only three Missionaries and two Cate- 
chists, out of one hundred and nine labourers who had been 
sent out during the preceding thirty years. The experience of 
the Weslevau Missionary Society is not very dissimilar. During 
tventy years, from IS 24 to 1SI4, this institution sent out to 
Sierra Leone, Cape Coast, and the Gambia, eighty-six labourers ; 
and during this period forty- two were removed by death, whilst 
several were compelled to return home on account of the 
failure of their health. Thus it will be seen that the loss 
sustained by each of these great Societies in a course of years 
was above fifty per cent., or rather more than one-half of the 
whole that were sent out. In IS 23, from January to June, 
seventy-seven Europeans died at Sierra Leone ; and in the same 
colony four Governors died in seven years, from 1825 to 18b2. 

If we were in a position to give the statistics of the army 
and navy connected with the coast of Africa, we have reason to 



CHAP. I. — CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 19 

fear that the result would be still more appalling. We have 
known a large number of raw recruits in the army carried off 
by fever during the first rainy season after their arrival. Since 
it was found that such awful mortality occurred among European 
troops in former years, the plan has been adopted of raising and 
employing regiments of native soldiers, commanded by Euro- 
pean officers : and it seems to answer well, as the officers are in 
a position to adopt precautionary measures for the preservation 
of their health which are not always within the reach of 
privates, to say nothing of the recklessness with which the 
course of a common soldier is too frequently distinguished.* 
Sailors on board Her Majesty's ships of war on the coast are 
seldom allowed to go on shore, and great attention is paid to 
their health and comfort. British seamen in the mercantile 
service fare much worse. They are frequently employed in hard 
labour, loading or unloading their vessels, during the day; and 
at night they are unable to sleep from the intense heat and the 
attacks of the mosquitoes. Being often worn out for want of 
rest, they soon become a prey to fever, and many have sunk to 
rise no more. We have known the whole of a ship's crew 
carried off in a few days. When inquiry was made as to the 
time when a certain vessel would sail for England, that letters 
might be sent by her, the answer was, "The ' Ann Grant ' has 
been laden for some time, but she cannot come down the river, 
all hands being dead I " It is not without reason that this 
country has been called " the white man's grave." 

But the question has frequently been put : " Has not the 
climate of Western Africa improved of late years ? M After 
attentive observation and much thought upon the subject, the 
writer is of opinion that a decided improvement has taken 
place ; the mortality among European residents being much less, 

* From statistical returns which have been published by Government, it 
appears that, in the year 1824, 2S3 European troops were sent to Western 
Africa, making the total number on the coast 346; of whom 301 died the 
same year. In 1825, 1.154 European troops were sent out, making a 
total on the coast of 1,193 : of these 621 died. In the most favourable 
years the loss by death in the regiments composed of British soldiers has 
seldom been less than one half the whole number, whilst in those composed 
of native troops the deaihs have only averaged about one in twenty-six, 

C 2 



20 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

m proportion to the number, than formerly. The cause of this 
improvement is to be found, not in any actual change in the 
seasons, but in the purer state of the atmosphere, occasioned 
bv the clearing and draining of the ground, which has taken 
place in the neighbourhood of some of the settlements. It 
must also be noted that African fevers are now better under- 
stood than formerly, and consequently treated with greater skill, 
and more general success. As experience and observation are 
further extended, we may hope that still _ ' improvement 

will be realized, till a sojourn in Western Africa will no loi _ : 
be regarded with serious apprehension as to the life or health of 
those whom it concerns. 

When we contemplate the difficulties arising from the un- 
healthiness of the climate, and are tempted to regard them as 
calculated to discourage, if not to paralyse, Christian effort on 
behalf of the country as a whole, we must not forget thai 
hitherto our experience in these matters has been chiefly con- 
fined to the coast ; and that it is a well authenticated fact that, 
as we proceed further into the interior, where the land is more 
elevated and dry, the liability to disease and death is not near 
so great as in the low swampy districts bordering on the 
Atlantic. This circumstance would seem to point to the possi- 
bility of forming interior stations in high and comparatively 
healthy situations, to which Missionaries and others might 
resort, to avoid the fatal influence of the epidemic, which 
appears in the form of yellow fever, as well as to recruit their 
strength when worn down by sickness, when a change of air is 
of so much importance. Thus ire see there is no room for 
despair, but ample reasons why the missionary enterprise should 
be prosecuted with unabated zeal and earnestness. Perhaps 
there was never a Missionary sent to Western Africa, whc evei 
regretted for one moment, in lire off in death, that he had left 
his native land in this good work. One noble-minded man. 
whom we knew, said to his most intimate friend when leaving 
home, " I go to the land of death ; but. if I die, you must come 
and write my epitaph ! " It was asked, " What shall I write? " 
u Write," said the Missionary, " * Though a thousand fall, lit 
not Africa be forgotten ! ' n Many have fallen, and have 



CHAP. I. — CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 21 

found a grave in African soil ; but the work of evangelizing 
Africa will never be relinquished. As Abraham took formal 
possession of Canaan, when he committed to the silent grave 
the remains of the dear departed ones, so have we, in a sense, 
taken formal possession of Africa for Chris r, by committing to 
the silent dust the remains of so many of our dear brethren and 
sisters, who cave fallen a sacrifice to the climate. " Precious 
in the si_.ht of the Lord is the death of His saints." 

This chapter may be appropriately concluded with a few 
practical observations, for the benefit of those who may proceed 
to Western Africa as Christian Missionaries, or in any other 
capacity. During the voyage it will be fonnd necessary to 
resort to the light clothing generally provided for warm cli- 
ma.es ; and we strongly recommend that flannel be always worn 
next to the skin. By its absorbing qualities, the flannel vest is 
the best safeguard against those sudden checks of perspiration, 
which are so damaging to health in tropical climates. On 
arriving in Africa, all unnecessary exposure to the night air 
should be carefully avoided, as the dews and fogs are most per- 
nicious. It may be desirable, also, to take a little aperient 
medicine on lauding ; but the best mode of regulating the 
bowels, and keeping the system cool and regular, is by careful 
attention to diet. It will be well to observe what agrees best 
with the stomach, and to avoid as much as possible every thing 
which is difficult of digestion, heating, or astringent ; as pastry, 
cheese, and pickles, See. With regard to the beverages which 
are best adapted to meet the requirements of man, in a country 
where thirst is such a frequently recurring circumstance, we 
feel some difficulty as to what is really the best course to pur- 
sue. From many years' personal experience of the advantages 
of totai abstinence from all intoxicating drinks, even in tropical 
climates, and amid arduous labours, we should be inclined to 
recommend the adoption of this principle fully in Western 
Africa, did we not call to mind the vile character of the water 
in that country. We have no hesitation, however, in giving our 
opinion, that the less of alcoholic mixture is used, even in a medi- 
cinal form, to counteract the pernicious effect of bad water, 
the better. Tea and coffee will be found more refreshing 



22 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

and less injurious than any kind of intoxicating drink in com- 
mon use. 

To Christian Missionaries going forth to Western Africa, we 
would say, above all things guard against fear ! Trust in God, 
and cherish an unwavering confidence in His ever watchful 
Providence. A high degree of sanctified moral courage is the 
best preservative against fever, disease, and death, in all their 
diversified forms. Many have died, it is true, but many have 
lived. Prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. Yea, 
believe for the best ; and say, with David, " 1 shall not die, but 
live to declare the wonderful works of the Lord." 



CHAPTER II. 

THE NATIVE POPULATION. 

Jalloffs — Mandingoes — Foolas — Moors — Fellatas — Yarribans — Ashantis 
— Fantis — Dahoman9 — M inor Tribes — Government — Penalties — 
Mumbo Jumbo — Marriages — Polygamy — Houses — Furniture — Food — 
Dress — Commerce — Currency — Manufactures — Religion — Mohammed- 
anism — Paganism — Superstitions — Greegrees — Fetish' — Human Sacri- 
fices — Devil Worship — Cannibalism. 

However great the pleasure with which we trace the cha- 
racter and natural features of a foreign land, if we have learned 
to appreciate the blessings of Christian civilization, we shall 
regard with feelings of still greater interest the condition, 
habits, and manners of the people by whom the country is in- 
habited ; especially if we cherish, as we ought to do, an earnest 
desire to aid in extending to them the blessings of the Gospel 
which we ourselves enjoy. 

Western Africa is inhabited by various tribes of the Negro 
race, resembling each other in many respects, and yet possess- 
ing traits of character sufficiently distinctive to render a brief 
description of each desirable. It would be difficult to describe 
every nation and tribe of people inhabiting those extensive 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 23 

regions ; for they are very numerous. Whilst resident there, we 
obtained specimens of thirty different languages spoken in the 
country ; and many more might, no doubt, have been procured. 
But we shall endeavour to give some account of those only 
which are most prominent, and then proceed to notice some 
particulars relating to the manners and customs which may be 
regarded as common to nearly all the tribes which have come 
under our observation. 

If we spread before us the map of Western Africa, and com- 
mence our survey at the north, we first meet with the Jalloffs, a 
numerous people, inhabiting a considerable portion of the 
country lying between the Senegal and the Gambia. They are 
generally tall of stature, but not remarkably robust. They are 
a hardy, daring, warlike race of men, however ; industrious in 
their habits, sociable in their manners, and more intelligent than 
most of the other Negro tribes. The Jalloff language is some- 
what harsh and gutteral in its tones ; but, when brought into 
the service of the sanctuary by converted natives, as we have 
had the pleasure of hearing it, it is remarkably pathetic and 
impressive. Our first translation into this dialect was the 
\Yesleyan Conference First Catechism, which we have heard the 
Mission School children repeat in a delightful manner. 

The next tribe we come to is 'that of the Mandingoes, who 
are found on both banks of the Gambia, as well as in the king- 
doms of Manding and Bambarra, through which the celebrated 
Mungo Park travelled in his journeys to the Niger. These 
people are almost invariably tall, muscular, and well formed, 
with features somewhat sharper than their neighbours the 
Jalloffs. Their disposition is generally friendly and hospitable ; 
and, when travelling alone and unprotected among them, we 
have always been treated with civility and respect, and never 
felt the slightest fear of molestation. Altogether, we regard the 
Mandingoes as the noblest specimens of the African race that 
we have met with ; and the few that have been brought under 
the influence of the Gospel, have been remarkable for their zeal 
and earnestness in the cause of God. The Mandingo language 
is peculiarly soft and mellow in its tones ; and on hearing it 
spoken we have been reminded of the Italian. It is said, how- 



2-i PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

ever, to be somewhat cramped and confined, when applied to 
religious purposes. This is not to be wondered at, when it is 
remembered that, till the arrival of the Missionaries, it had 
never been reduced to grammatical form, or employed in any 
way in the service of God. With the aid of some intelligent 
natives, the Kev. E. M. MacBrair succeeded in translating the 
Gospel according to St. Matthew into Mandingo, as well as in 
forming a short Grammar of the language. 

In immediate contact with the tribes just mentioned, we have 
the Pastoral Foolas. As they are found in the regions of Sene- 
gambia, these are a simple, inoffensive people. They make no 
pretentions to a right in the soil, but live by mere sufferance 
among the Jalloffs and Mandingoes, to whose Kings or Chiefs 
they pay tribute for the privilege of pasturing their cattle. By 
these petty despots they are often severely oppressed, and 
sometimes robbed of all they possess ; yet they seldom com- 
plain, but travel from place to place with their herds, as occa- 
sion requires, subsisting entirely on the milk of their flocks. 
The Pastoral Poolas have a tradition among themselves, that 
they originally sprang from a white man, who settled in their 
country ; and, whether there be any real foundation for this 
tradition or not, it is a remarkable fact that they have a striking 
resemblance to Europeans, not only in their complexion, which 
is comparatively fair, but also in their general aspect and 
features ; being destitute of the flat nose, thick lips, and retiring 
forehead, which distinguish most of the other African tribes. 
These people never pray, neither are they addicted to many 
pagan superstitious rites, so common among the Negroes gene- 
rally ; and their highest idea of virtue is to refrain from fighting, 
and to live in peace with all men. A laudable and well-meant 
attempt to extend the blessings of Christian civilization to this 
singular people was made several years ago, which will be 
noticed in the course of our narrative. 

We may here mention the Teucolars and the Loubies, who 
are generally regarded as petty tribes of Foolas, in consequence 
of their speaking the same language, though differing entirely in 
many respects from them. The first-named people resemble 
the Mandingoes in appearance, character, and prowess. They 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 25 

are not a wandering* people like the Pastoral Foolas, but have 
established themselves in several powerful states, the principal 
of which are Foota-Toro, on the south of the Senegal ; Foota- 
Jallon, adjacent to Sierra Leone ; Foota-Doo, or Country of the 
Foolas, Wassela, and Missina. The Teucolars are Mohammedans, 
and are frequently designated learned Foolas. The Loubies 
are a degenerate race, stunted in growth, and haggard in ap- 
pearance ; and yet they speak the Foola tongue. They possess 
neither towns nor cattle, but wander about from place to place 
with wooden bowls and other utensils, which they manufacture 
at their leisure, and sell to the Mandingoes. From their appear- 
ance, character, and habits, the Loubies may be regarded as the 
Gypsies of Western Africa. The Foola language is somewhat 
peculiar in its structure, and bears a striking resemblance to the 
Kaffir of South Africa, with the exception of the clicks, which 
some think have been borrowed from the Hottentots, in com- 
paratively recent times.* It would be interesting to pursue the 
subject, if our space and the design of this work permitted us 
to do so, as there appear to be many circumstances which point 
to an identity of origin of African tribes so far apart from each 
other as the Foolas of the West and the Kaffirs of the South. 
Some learned men are of opinion that both these tribes have 
had an eastern or Malay origin; but the question seems involved 
in profound mystery. 

* The following are specimens of the languages spoken, by the three 
principal native tribes with which we came in contact on the banks of the 
Gambia : — 



ENGLISH. 


JALLOFF. 


M AND IN GO. 


FOOLA. 


One 


Ben 




Kii-ing 


Go 


Two 


Ni-ar 




Fu-la 


Di-da 


Three 


Ni-at 




Sa-bi 


Tut 


Four 


Ni-an-at 




Na-ui 


Na-i 


Five 


Dur-rom 




Lu-lu 


Je-i 


Six 


Dur-rom- 


ben 


Uo-ru 


Je-ga 


Seven 


Dur-rom- 


•ni-ar 


Uo-ru-la 


Je-di 


Eight 


Dur-rom 


■ni-at 


Se-i 


Je-tut 


Nine 


Dur-rom 


■ni-an-at 


Ko-nun-to 


Je-na-i 


Ten 


Fuk 




Tong 


Sap-o 



26 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

We must now direct the attention of the reader to the Moors 
of Western Africa ; for, although this is not their original home, 
here they are in vast numbers, and in superior power and force. 
Among these people are to be found the principal native mer- 
chants or traders of the country, who travel extensively in the 
prosecution of their special vocation. They may be seen cross- 
ing the sandy deserts in caravans, with their camels laden with 
merchandise, and driving flocks of poor hapless slaves to the 
market. Those who are more settled in their habits have 
established themselves in the far-famed city of Timbuctoo, and 
other large towns on the banks of the Niger. The Moors are 
not of pure Negro blood, but a mixture of the Arab and African 
races. They are rigid Mohammedans, and use the Arabic lan- 
guage in their ordinary intercourse with each other, as well as 
in their religious exercises. In feature and complexion the 
Moors have a strong eastern cast, and are generally more intel- 
ligent than their neighbours. This superiority they make known 
in an unmistakeable manner by their acts of cruelty and oppres- 
sion.. Not only have the feebler tribes of Western Africa suf- 
fered much from the tyrannical conduct of the Moors ; but 
inoffensive travellers have also been the subject of their treachery. 
Mungo Park was long kept a prisoner by them, and was not 
only cruelly treated, but robbed of all that he possessed. 
Major Houghton met with his death at their hands; and, 
although Dr. Earth in his recent journey gained access to 
Timbuctoo, the Moors took care that he should see as little as 
possible of the place ; so that his account of the mysterious city 
is necessarily brief and imperfect. 

On proceeding southward, down the river Niger, we meet 
with the Fellatas, a numerous and powerful tribe of people, 
whose locality cannot be accurately defined, as they are perpetu- 
ally on the move. Some travellers assert that the Eellatas are 
identical with the Foolas, and that their warlike character and 
general superiority to that soft and effeminate people is owing 
entirely to difference of circumstances. Be this as it may, it is 
evident that the Fellatas on the banks of the Niger have for 
many years pushed forward in aggressive and successful warfare 
on the less powerful tribes, till they now occupy an influential 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 27 

and commanding position in many districts, where their name 
was formerly unknown. They have carried their victories as 
far as Yarriba and Borgoo, and established themselves in many 
important native towns and cities, reducing the people every- 
where to a state of abject slavery, after the example of the 
Moors in the northern districts of the vast continent. In the 
opinions of the Landers, the Fellata females are generally pos- 
sessed of peculiar charms, notwithstanding their sable complexion; 
and, in their intelligence, carriage, and demeanour, they are 
much superior to those of any other tribe in Western Africa. 
The same travellers give a favourable report of the men also. 
When not actually engaged in war, they describe them as 
"active, intelligent, mild, and humane." The Fellatas entertain 
a high opinion of their own prowess, and boldly declare that 
" they could conquer the whole world, if the salt water did not 
prevent them." 

The next people that claim our attention are the Yarribans. 
This numerous and powerful tribe of native Africans inhabit an 
extensive plain, the western border of which is within a hundred 
miles of the coast, and extends eastward nearly to the river 
Niger. The land is described as remarkably fertile, and tole- 
rably well cultivated, producing Indian corn, millet, yams, rice, 
cotton, and indigo. The capital of Yarriba is Eyeo, which 
Clapperton describes as a large and populous city, fifteen miles 
iu circumference, and supplied with seven large markets. But 
when we read of African towns and cities embracing within 
their walls such large tracts of ground, it must always be 
remembered that extensive fields and gardens are generally 
included in these vast enclosures, to enable the people to endure 
a long siege in the event of war ; so that the amount of popula- 
tion, though frequently large, is not always in proportion to the 
space occupied by the town in which they live. The King of 
Eyeo gave to Clapperton a grand reception in his mud-built 
palace. His sable majesty was seated on a mat, surrounded by 
his councillors and a host of his wives, which the traveller 
endeavoured in vain to number. The King inquired how many 
wives the King of England possessed, with a view to form a 
proper estimate ot his power and greatness ; but when informed 



28 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

that he had only one, the whole company gave themselves up to 
a long and ungovernable tit of laughter. The Monarch of 
Yarriba could boast that his wives, linked hand in hand, would 
reach across his kingdom. Queens in Africa are, however, 
applied to various uses of which Europeans have little idea. 
For example : in Yarriba some of them formed a band of body- 
guards to the King ; while others were observed in various 
parts of the kingdom acting as traders and as porters, bearing 
on their heads enormous burdens. Hence they might be more 
properly called slaves than Queens. The Yarribans, like all the 
other purely Negro tribes that we have met with, are totally 
unacquainted with letters or writing in any form : they are 
nevertheless remarkably clever in the composition of extempo- 
raneous songs, which they recite and sing with great spirit on 
special occasions. They pride themselves in not being addicted 
to the horrid bloody customs of the neighbouring nations, in 
putting to death a large number of people in connexion with 
the funeral ceremonies of departed Chiefs ; but they admit that 
on these solemn occasions it is usual for several councillors and 
wives of the deceased voluntarily to take poison, that they may 
accompany the royal personage, and attend upon him in the 
invisible world. 

The most numerous, powerful, and warlike people with which 
we are acquainted in Western Africa, are the Ashantis. They 
may be called a nation rather than a tribe ; for, although en- 
tirely unacquainted with European civilization when they were 
first brought to our notice, they had attained, by dint of their 
own native energy, to a position as to arts, agriculture, com- 
merce, and war, far above the most advanced native tribes on 
the continent. The Ashantis, who, according to the estimate 
of some travellers, amount to four millions, occupy a vast tract 
of country in the interior regions of the coast of Guinea, of not 
less than sixty thousand square miles, commencing at the river 
Volta, and extending over four degrees of longitude, with an 
equal breadth inland from the borders of the Fanti territory. 
The first mention which we find of this remarkable people is 
early in the last century, when the traveller, Mr. Lucas, whilst 
at Tripoli, heard of Kumasi, the capital of Ashanti, as the 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIYE POPULATION. 29 

destination of the caravans which were leaving that city 
during his sojourn there. Being separated from the mari- 
time districts of the coast of Guinea by Aguambo, Dinkira, 
and other powerful states, the Ashantis did not come in contact 
with the European settlements till the commencement of the 
present century. About this period these tribes were obliged 
to give way before the growing power of the Ashanti empire, 
whose mighty host of warriors carried all before them, till they 
reached the borders of the country occupied by the Fantis, the 
principal tribe of natives on the Gold Coast. The whole terri- 
tory having been laid waste by the invaders, the timid Fantis 
made a stand at Anamabo with nine thousand men ; but these 
were completely vanquished by the King of Ashanti, who came 
upon them with fifteen thousand of his choice warriors. The 
Fantis were routed and put to death at the first onset, with 
the exception of a few who sought protection in the British 
fort. 

It is not our purpose to pursue in detail the history of the 
Ashanti wars which followed, and in which England figured, 
alas ! too prominently. Suffice it to say, that in one of these 
contests Sir Charles Macarthy, the esteemed Governor of Cape 
Coast Castle, lost his life, having under-estimated the strength 
of the enemy, and rushed into the heat of the battle, hoping to 
bring it to a speedy conclusion. It was not till the arrival of 
the British embassy at the capital of Ashanti, to make pacific 
arrangements with the King, in 1817, that the real character 
and power of this remarkable people were ascertained. The 
narratives published by Bowdich, Dupuis, and others, are of 
fearful interest. These gentlemen were struck with the barbaric 
pomp and splendour of the sable Monarch. They found his 
numerous attendants profusely laden with ornaments of gold, 
whilst the most common articles in daily use were made of the 
precious metal. They saw the royal executioner with his hatchet 
on his breast, and the fatal stool stained with blood before him, 
ready, at the sound of the death-drum, to do his fearful work ; 
and they ascertained that the King had recently immolated on the 
grave of his mother three hundred victims, two hundred of whom 
were Panti prisoners taken in the recent war. At the death of 



30 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

a late Sovereign, the sacrifices were continued weekly for three 
months, consisting, each time, of two hundred slaves. 

The statements of the British Ambassadors to the King of 
Ashanti have been amply confirmed by a more intimate acquaint- 
ance with the people and the country since the establishment of 
peace, and the appointment of Christian Missionaries to labour 
in the capital. And, although no very marked results have as 
yet followed the benevolent efforts which have been put forth to 
evangelize these barbarous but interesting people ; we cannot 
but hope for ultimate success, when we remember that the King 
has been so far impressed in favour of the English, as to send 
two of his nephews to be educated in this country, one of 
whom has already returned to his native land as a messenger of 
the Gospel to his fellow-countrymen. 

The Fantis, although far inferior in courage and power to 
their neighbours the Ashantis, are, nevertheless, a numerous 
and important tribe of natives, and are supposed to number 
about one million. They owe their very existence to the kindly 
influence of the English at Cape Coast Castle, which is situated 
in their territory ; for, had they been left to themselves, they 
must have perished long ago, as did many other tribes, before 
their barbarous and powerful enemies. The country occupied 
by the Eantis extends along the Gold Coast for nearly two 
hundred miles, and reaches inland to the river Prah, on the 
southern frontier of the Ashanti country. The land is generally 
fertile, and in many places well cultivated. Populous and 
thriving villages are met with in every direction, most of which 
have of late years been supplied with Christian instruction by 
the agency of the Wesleyan Missionary Society. A marked 
improvement in the condition of the people has, in many places, 
already appeared ; and, by means of the fostering care of the 
British Government, and the zealous labours of the Mission- 
aries, we may reasonably anticipate still greater good in time to 
come. 

Immediately bordering on the countries already mentioned, we 
find another powerful and important tribe of native Africans, 
the Dahoinans ; and for warlike aggression and ferocious cruelty, 
they may be classed with their still more powerful neighbours 



CHAP. II.— THE NATIVE POPULATION. 31 

the Ashantis. The savage character of this people was first 
brought to the notice uf Europeans by Mr. Norris, who took a 
journey through the country, and paid a visit to the King of 
Dahomi, at Abomi his capital, for the purpose of extending 
trade and commerce, in the year 1772. This gentleman, as 
well as Mr. Dalzel and others, who afterwards visited Abomi, 
describe scenes of cruelty and blood similar to those which were 
witnessed by the Ambassadors and the Missionaries at Kumasi. 
Dalzel informs us that the King's body guard consists of a 
troop of armed women. "Within the walls of the different 
royal palaces in Dahomi are immured not less than three thou- 
sand women ; several hundreds of these are trained to the use of 
arms, under female generals and officers, appointed by the King. 
These female warriors are regularly exercised, and go through 
their evolutions with as much expertness as the male soldiers." 
The King's palace at Abomi is surrounded by a substantial clay 
wall, about twenty feet high, the top of which is ornamented 
with human skulls elevated on small wooden stakes.* Access 
to the interior of the palace is generally denied to Europeans ; 
but Mr. Dalzel once visited the King during illness, and was 
admitted to his bed-chamber, a detached room surrounded by 
a low wall, the top of which was ornamented with human jaw- 

* Concerning this strange ornamentation of the walls of the palace, we 
find the following awful incident recorded in Dalzel's " History of Dahomi." 
" The person to whom the management of this business was committed, 
having neglected to make a proper calculation of his materials, had pro- 
ceeded too far in his work when he found that there would not be a suffi- 
cient number of skulls to adorn the whole palace. He therefore requested 
permission to begin the work anew, that he might, by planing them further 
apart, complete the design in a regular manner. But the King would by no 
means give his consent to this proposal, observing that he should ' soon hnd 
a sufficient number of Badagiy heads to render the plan perfectly uniform.' 
The operator, therefore, proceeded with the work till the skulls were all 
expended, when the defective part of the wall was measured, and calculation 
made, by which it appeared that one hundred and twenty-seven was the 
number wanted to finish this extraordinary embellishment. The prisons 
where the wretched captives had been confined were accordingly thrown 
open, and the requisite number of victims dragged forth, to be slaughtered 
in cold blood for this horrid purpose." 



32 PART I. — WESTERN AFKICA. 

bones, anc] the path which led to the door was pared with 
human skulls. 

The successive Kings of Dahomi have for many years been 
the chief promoters of the accursed slave trade. By waging 
perpetual wars, and the practice of kidnapping, they have been 
enabled to send thousands of their fellow creatures to Whydah 
every year, for shipment to foreign countries, notwithstanding 
the vigilance of British cruisers. As the present King of 
Dahomi has recently permitted Missionaries to visit him, and to 
introduce Christianity into some parts of the country ; and has 
even hinted that lie might be induced to relinquish the slave 
trade, if he were sure that it would be succeeded by legitimate com- 
merce ; we may entertain the hope that these habitations of 
cruelty will ultimately be visited with the light of the Gospel. 
Our anticipation of better days for Dahomi has been much 
encouraged in consequence of the purchase recently made by the 
British Government of a small territory for a settlement at 
Lagos, a port and island in the Bight of Benin. By means of 
this arrangement, a salutary check will be imposed upon the 
inhuman and warlike propensities of the Dahomans ; whilst, at 
the same time, legitimate commerce and missionary labours will 
receive protection and encouragement at Abbeokuta, Badagry, 
Lagos, and other important places on the Slave Coast. 

Besides the large and powerful native tribes already men- 
tioned, there are in Western Africa many other separate and 
independent clans, as the Feloops, Egbas, Cromantees, Tim- 
manees, Loosoos, Sarrawoollies, Sulimas, Kurankoes. Krumen, 
&c. ; a description of which might be interesting, if our prescribed 
limits allowed the attempt. The people who reside in the 
immediate neighbourhood of the coast, and have been frequently 
brought into contact with European traders, are generally 
marked by superior intelligence ; and, we regret to add, that 
they are too frequently distinguished by the depravity of their 
morals. They soon pick up a few sentences of broken English, 
Spanish, or Portuguese ; but the first words that they learn are 
often nothing better than oaths and curses. The prevalence of 
the slave trade in the Bight of Benin, and indeed along the 
whole coast, has had a most demoralizing effect upon the 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 33 

natives ; and it is to be feared that those of our countrymen 
who have been engaged in shipping palm oil, and in other 
branches of legitimate commerce, have not taken much pains 
to improve the character of those with whom they have come in 
contact. 

Many amusing incidents might be related of the native 
Chiefs or Kings, at the principal trading-places on the coast, 
illustrative of the ready wit and pompous display of these semi- 
civiiized dignitaries. As a specimen, we may give the follow- 
ing from the " West African Herald," of February 8th, 1862, 
a newspaper printed and edited entirely by native Africans at 
Cape Coast : — " In our issue of the 24th of October last, we 
animadverted with some severity on the conduct of Peppel, 
King of Bonny, who had recently returned to that place in a 
brig called the 'Beulah,' from England, accompanied by some 
English ladies and gentlemen, whom he had engaged as secre- 
taries and ladies of honour, &c. All these persons have been 
under the necessity of finding their way back to England in the 
best manner they could. There were nine of them altogether; 
two ladies and seven gentlemen. The Secretary to his Majesty, 
Mr. Halcome, was to have £1,000 per annum, and apartments 
in the palace ; and the others were to receive remuneration for 
their services in proportion. These unhappy persons, after 
arriving at Bonny, finding that no preparation had been made 
for their accommodation, remained on board the c Beulah 3 in 
the river, till the master of the vessel, Captain Le Marquand, 
declared that he really could not afford to feed them any longer.* 
They then applied to King Peppel for some of their pay, when 
his Majesty coolly offered them two yams each, saying that this 
was all he could do for them. As it now became plain that the 
whole thing was a delusion, these persons proceeded to shift for 
themselves, in the best way they could. One gentleman, with 
his wife, found a home with Dr. Ward, agent of Messrs. Per- 
cival Brothers. They lived three months with this gentleman, 
and then left for England in the ' Star of the Seas.' Another 
gentleman and lady went home per ' Golden Age/ in November. 
The medical officer, Dr. Munro, went to Fernando Po, in search 
of occupation ; and the rest of the suite, after passing some 

D 



34 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

weeks in the river, subsisting on charity, have 
England by the mail steamer * Athenian/ " 

This strange narrative can scarcely be read without a feeling 
of surprise at the bold audacity : the sa .7 Monarch in mating 
such arrangements for his mud -built palace, on his recen: 
to England ; nor less so at the simplicity igBorance of the 

parties concerned, in allowing themselves to be thus duped, 
under the impression that they were securing Lucrative sil - 
tions at an African court. They have no doubt learned a 
lesson which will teach them to consider well the character :: 
their next engagement. 

Such is a brief sketch of a few of the ::pal tribe- :: 

people inhabiting the various countries of Western A 
united under different Chiefs, and speaking diffei lects, 

and yet possessing many phases of character in common with 
each other. Many more illustrations might have been _/•-:.. 
but perhaps these are sufficient, as specimens of the fa stet : gei 
materials of which the population, as a whole, is composed; 
broken, divided, and scattered as it has been by frequent 
and dissensions. We now proceed to notice some panic 
of interest concerning the people generalh. 

We may firs: offer a few remarks respecting the kind of 
government that generally prevails in Western Africa. The 
people are in a barbarous state, it is true ; but they are nof 
entirely without rule and law of some kind. The whole 
country being divided into a number :: independent states, the 
government is almost invar:?. / ::' the most — pDtic char? icte . 
The will of the King or Chief is the law of the tribe ; and woe i 
to those who dare to thwart or oppose his sable Majesty. 
But, notwithstanding the absolute despotism which universally 
prevails, there are forms of law which are sometimes resorted to. 
Not only has each tribe its Chief, out each town has its Head- 
man or Alcaide, who is empowered to hear and settle eas^- ;:" 
minor consequence. Each town has also its bentang, or " talking 
place/ 5 This is a platform of wattled bamboo-cane, rais* 
about two feet high from the ground, and is generally erect* 
under the shade of an ami rs geous tree called " the palaver tree 
Here the men of the town meet together and lounge, especial 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 35 

in the evening, to talk over the news of the day. Here, also, 
the people assemble when eases of dispute or disagreement 
have to be settled. This is the place of judgment, and answers 
the purpose of the court-house, or c; gate of the city," of 
eastern countries, as it existed in ancient times. The Chief, or 
Alcaide, having taken his seat, attended by his councillors, the 
case is stated in all its particulars, witnesses are cited, and evi- 
dence is taken in due form. Then the pleadings commence ; when 
displays of native oratory are sometimes made, which one would 
hardly expect among such a people, practised hands being 
employed on each side to conduct the proceedings. When all 
has been said that can be said upon the subject, the Chief or 
Alcaide presiding gives his dictum, and states in a few words 
what is to be done. If the case at all affects the interests of 
the Chief, it may be foreseen how it will terminate ; or he may 
prevent its coming to trial in any form ; for, with a word of his 
mouth, or a nod of his head, he can inflict the severest punish- 
ment upon those who have incurred his displeasure, even to 
the taking away life itself. Indeed, human life is very lightly 
esteemed by these barbarians. " If a black man had brought 
me this message," said the King of Ashanti in a rage to the 
British Ambassadors, " I would have had his head cut off before 
me." The people are taught to regard the King with pro- 
found and superstitious veneration ; and not only the common 
people, but even the Chiefs and Caboceers prostrate themselves 
in the most abject manner before his Majesty; and, when per- 
mitted to do so, actually crawl into his presence upon their 
hands and feet, throwing handfuls of dust upon their heads. 
The people often show a spirit of devotion truly Spartan, and 
worthy of a better cause, even to the sacrifice of life itself. 
" My head belongs to the King, and not to myself," said one 
of the Dahoman warriors to Mr. Xorris : "if he please to send 
for it, I am ready to resign it ; or if it be shot through in 
battle, I am satisfied, since it is in his service." 

Although we have adverted to courts of law and judicial 
process, as practised in some parts of Western Africa, it must 
not be supposed that there exists anything of this kind 
analogous to what we have in England and other civilized 

D 2 



36 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

countries. It is but very occasionally that we meet with 
anything like rational investigation for the discovery of guilt, 
with a view to meet the claims of justice. Recourse is more 
frequently had to witchcraft, and to various superstitious rites 
and ceremonies, when parties are suspected of crimes. The 
sickness of a Chief often causes the death of many persons. 
It is ascribed to magic, and a professed sorcerer is summoned 
to find out the culprit. This he does by inspecting the inside 
of a mystic fowl, which has been killed and split into two parts. 
Blackness or blemish about the wing is supposed to denote 
treachery in children or kinsmen ; in the backbone it convicts 
mother and grandmother ; in the tail it accuses the wives, and 
in the thighs the concubines : in the shanks or feet it condemns 
the common slaves. When a class has thus been fixed upon as 
criminals, its members are collected by the sorcerer or witch- 
doctor, who, after various incantations, throws up a living fowl, 
drugged for the occasion, and singles out as the culprit the 
person on whom it alights. Confession of guilt is extorted by 
torture, and instant death is the punishment. Men are speared, 
clubbed, beheaded, or have their heads crushed; and women 
are generally impaled. If the Chief be long in recovering or 
in dying, many victims are thus sacrificed, as the "custom 55 is 
conthrued till the crisis arrives. Persons suspected of adultery 
are required to drink poison water, or to walk with bare feet 
over piates of red-hot iron ; either of which, it is alleged, will 
prove harmless to the innocent, w hilst, if guilty, the parties 
will be deservedly pnnished. Minor crimes, as petty thefts and 
other misdemeanours, are generally punished by heavy fines 
imposed on persons possessing property, or the loss of personal 
liberty, if the culprit happens to be poor. To drag a poor 
fellow creature into perpetual slavery, is the most common mode 
of demanding atonement for transgression in Western Africa, 
as it affords the most certain mode of replenishing the coffers 
of the despot. 

On some occasions, however, the people are allowed to take 
the law into their own hands. This is particularly the case 
with regard to an institution which we found in existence in 
the native towns on the banks of the Gambia ; and which 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 37 

appears to be known on various parts of the coast. It is 
termed Mumbo Jumbo, and is called into operation for the 
purpose of curing domestic squabbles, and punishing rebellious 
wives. The Negroes who are in circumstances to do so, being 
in the habit of multiplying their consorts, are not unacquainted 
with "family jars;" but when a serious breach of the peace 
has taken place, and the master of the house has failed to put 
matters right by friendly remonstrance, Mumbo Jumbo 
interposes his authority. This is a person unknown, with a 
mask on his face, a staff in his hand, and robed in a singular 
dress, made of the bark of a tree. When he is seen entering 
the village in the dusk of the evening, and approaching the 
bentang, where the people are assembling for their usual 
amusement, great is the curiosity which is excited as to the 
parties who may have occasioned the visit of the mysterious 
personage. There are many palpitations and heart-searchings 
among the ladies, whose consciences tell them that they have 
not been remarkably loving, mild, or pacific, in their respective 
families. At length Mumbo Jumbo, with unerring aim, 
seizes upon the unfortunate vixen to be punished for her 
misconduct. He strips her naked, ties her to a post, and 
severely beats her with his rod, till she cries for mercy, and 
promises not to offend again ; whilst the bystanders of both 
sexes look on with derisive bursts of laughter, and shouts of 
savage joy, forgetting that their turn to be punished may soon 
come. This Mumbo Jumbo may be the husband of the 
lady thus chastised, or he may be his friend, whose services 
have been engaged for the occasion. Having executed his 
office in perfect disguise, he retires, in the darkness of the night, 
takes off his dress, and hangs it up in a tree near the village, 
where it remains suspended, in terror em, as a standing warning 
to unruly w T ives. Some of the African ladies think there ought 
to be instituted a Mumbo Jumbo for naughty husbands as 
well as for disobedient wives ! 

The sacred ordinance of marriage, as instituted by the 
Almighty, and as acknowledged in civilized and Christian 
countries, is unknown among the barbarous tribes of Western 
Africa. Both Mohammedans and Pagans, so far as we have 



38 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

observed, are remarkably licentious in their conduct ; and 
indulge their sensual passions without restraint. When a 
young man desires to take to himself a wife, the first question 
that occurs to him is,— Has he the means of paving the price that 
the parents of the damsel on whom he has fixed his eye will 
expect or demand for their daughter? This having been 
settled, and a present of the mystic kola nuts presented, a 
bargain is made with the old people, irrespective of the views 
and feelings of the young lady on the subject ; the day of the 
wedding is fixed, friends are invited, and a feast is prepared. 
When the auspicious day arrives, and the wedding guests 
are assembled, about sunset the bride is introduced, dressed 
in a white robe , and, having taken her seat in the centre of 
the hut, a number of old matrons surround her, and give her 
earnest and serious lectures as to her future behaviour as a 
wife. In the mean time a number of young girls enter the hut 
singing and dancing ; and finally conduct the timid bride to 
the hut appointed for her future residence; and the night is 
spent by the assembly in feasting, drinking, drumming, and 
dancing, without any legal or religious ceremony whatever. 

Polygamy is allowed both by Mohammedans and Pagans, and 
is generally practised by all the native tribes with which we are 
acquainted. The Koran does indeed impose some limitation 
to the number of a man's wives, and requires that they shall 
not exceed four. But in many professedly Mohammedan countries 
the principles of the false prophet have such a slender hold 
on the masses of the people, that this rule is totally disregarded ; 
whilst among the Pagan tribes no restraint whatever is recog- 
nised, the only limit to the number of a man's wives being his 
means to purchase them. We have met with instances in 
which native Africans have had ten, twenty, or thirty wives, 
whilst Kings, Chiefs, and Caboceers are known to number them 
by hundreds and thousands. It is said that the King of 
Ashanti rejoices in the mystic number of three thousand three 
hundred and thirty-three wives ! 

In the present barbarous state of African society, it is unne- 
cessary for the husband to calculate the means of supporting 
his wife or wives ; for, when once procured, they are the pi hi- 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 39 

cipal means of supporting him and his children. It is the 
wives who cultivate the ground, and do all the heavy work and 
drudgery about the place, in common with the domestic slaves ; 
whilst their lazy lords are lounging at home in their huts or at 
the bent an g. The result of this fearful system may be readily 
imagined. According to Major Gray, " polygamy is the fruit- 
ful source of jealousy and distrust ; it contracts the parental 
and filial affections ; it weakens and disjoints the ties of 
kindred, and totally unhinges the frame of society. The father 
has many wives ; the wives have many children ; favouritism, 
in its most odious forms, sets in ; jealousy is soon aroused, and 
revenge unsheaths the sword which deals forth destruction." 

The houses or huts of the natives are generally of a rude and 
simple character. Where the bamboo flourishes, as on the 
banks of the Gambia, they are made of neat cane wattled work, 
as are also the fences which enclose the yard or compound of 
each family. In other places they are built of mud, which 
rapidly dries in the sun ; and when due care is taken in the 
construction, a substantial dwelling may be erected in this way. 
In some places the clay or mud is mixed with grass, and forms 
a strong compact wall called " swish." The usual form of the 
African huts is circular or beehive-shaped ; and being thatched 
with long grass, they appear at a distance like so many hay- 
ricks in a farmyard. It is not unusual, however, to find in 
some towns, as in Abomi and Kumasi, the dwellings of the 
more opulent natives built of a square shape; and, whether 
constructed of mud or wood-work, they are, in these cases, 
substantially built, and formed with neat verandahs or open 
sitting-rooms in front ; the whole being finished with elaborate 
carved work. The place for cooking is invariably apart from 
the main dwelling, as are also the apartments of the wives ; 
hence, when a man has a large family, his domestic establish- 
ment presents the appearance of a small village within an 
enclosure. The domestic wants of the Xegroes, in a climate 
which admits of their spending most of their time out of doors, 
are few and simple -. consequently, we find their huts not 
encumbered with much furniture. On entering the rude dwell- 
ing of the African, you may observe on one side of the 



40 PART I. — WESTERS AFRICA. 

principal apartment a narrow platform of wattled cane-work, 
covered with mats, and raised about half a yard from the 
ground. This is the sleeping-place, and answers the purpose of 
a bedstead. One or two iron or earthenware pots, in which 
they cook their food, a few wooden bowls and calabashes, in 
which it is served up, and a wooden mortar and pestle, with 
w r hich they pound the corn in making cus-cus, with a lamp, and 
sometimes a copper kettle, complete the list of household 
utensils required by this simple people. 

Having adverted to the domestic arrangements of the Xegro 
race, this may be the proper place to make a few remarks on 
their mode of living. In every part of Western Africa with 
which we are acquainted, the natives are in the habit of taking 
only two meals a day, the one about ten o'clock in the morn- 
ing, and the other about six o'clock in the evening. These 
generally consist, with but little variation, of manioc, yams, sweet 
potatoes, and other roots, pounded corn, called cus-cus, and 
boiled rice, served up with milk, or with soup, together with 
fish, flesh, or fowl, according to their means, taste, or fancy. 
The whole mess, when cooked, is poured into a large calabash 
or wooden bowl, which is placed in the centre of the hut, 
around which the whole family assembles to eat : first the lords, 
and then the ladies and the children ; for an African never eats 
with his wives or little ones. It is a novel sight to a 
European, this domestic meal of the Xegro at his own home, 
especially when the family is large, as they make use of their 
hands only, whether the contents of the wooden bowl be solid 
or liquid ; knives, forks, and spoons being out of question. 
We have sometimes been rather perplexed, when travelling far 
from the abodes of civilization, to conform to this primitive 
mode of satisfying the cravings of nature. It is a remarkable 
circumstance that we never saw bread of any kind made or used 
in the interior of Western Africa. 

In personal appearance the natives are generally far superior 
to what many would suppose. In some of the tribes, we have 
found the men tall and athletic, and the women well formed 
and good-looking; and whether of jet black or bronze com- 
plexion, their skins are smooth and shining, being frequently 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 41 

anointed with palm oil. The dress of those who do dress is 
very simple, and differs little throughout the country ; fashions 
and modes, as practised by civilized nations, being entirely 
unknown. The most common garb consists of two oblong 
cloths of native manufacture, called "pangs," one of which is 
thrown round the lower, and the other over the upper, part of 
the person. The men, however, sometimes wear wide panta- 
loons, and a loose robe reaching down to the feet, over their 
under garments, and a turban or cotton cap on the head. 
Ladies of rank, when in full dress, appear with splendid head- 
dresses, of a conical form, resembling the shape of a sugar loaf ; 
and are frequently laden with ornaments of gold and silver in 
the form of massive ear-rings, bracelets, manillas, or heavy 
metallic rings round the wrists and ancles, with a profusion of 
beads of various kinds and colours. Their favourite domestic 
slaves, however scanty their clothing, are also frequently 
adorned with ornaments of gold, the whole of which, as well as 
the wearers, belong to their owners. All classes, except slaves, 
wear sandals of stained leather, beautifully ornamented, instead 
of shoes. But, although we have thus described the usual 
dress of those who do dress, it must not be forgotten that 
children of both sexes may be everywhere seen running about 
entirely destitute of clothing : and that adults, free persons as 
well as slaves, wear next to nothing when pursuing their daily 
avocations. There has been an improvement in this respect of 
late years, both in the European settlements and on the Mission 
stations. The native females at the Gambia were highly 
amused when they first saw the Missionary's wife cutting out 
dresses, and instructing the Negro girls how to make garments. 
They laughed heartily ; declaring English ladies to be the most 
foolish people in the world for " cutting the cloth into little 
pieces, and then taking the trouble to sew them together 
again ! " 

The people of Africa have everywhere a strong passion for 
trade and commerce ; and a person has no sooner the means at 
his command, than he engages in some kind of traffic with 
characteristic earnestness, according to his opportunity. This 
propensity is manifested by all classes, from the King to the 



42 PAET I. — WESTERN AFHJCA. 

meanest slave ; and fairs and markets have been established in 
various parts of the country, where thousands of people attend 
to interchange property, their trade being invariably conducted 
on the principle of barter. Money coin is unknown among the 
natives of the interior. That which approaches nearest to it, 
as a circulating medium, is cowrie shells. These are strung 
together in hundreds in some districts, and then they are easily 
counted ; but in other places they are put up in bags contain- 
ing 20,000 each, which have all to be reckoned off separately, 
which is a very tedious process. Some idea of the cumbrous 
and inconvenient character of this kind of currency may be 
formed, when it is stated that so small is the nominal value of 
the cowrie that 50 of them go to a penny, and 12,000 to a 
pound sterling. As 100,000 are reckoned a load for a camel, 
twelve camels would be required to carry £100 in cowries; 
whilst £2, in this cumbrous African currency, form an ample 
burden for a man to carry on his head. Although cowries are 
the most common kind of currency in Western Africa, and will 
generally serve the purpose of the traveller, when he can 
procure them, this is not always the case. In some districts 
bars of iron, bundles of native cloth, or shirts, are recognised as 
the smaller currency, aid slaves or gold as the larger; and 
without these articles nothing that is required can be procured. 
Eude and barbarous as the native Africans are in many 
respects, they have made a degree of progress in some branches 
of manufacture which is quite surprising, considering their 
slender resources. In almost every part of the country, the 
people are in the habit of weaving a coarse but strong cotton 
cloth. It is made in very narrow webs of about six or eight 
inches wide, which are sewed together, so as to form the oblong 
garments called " pangs," already mentioned. The cotton used in 
this fabrication is grown on the spot, and is spun into threads for 
warp and welt with the lingers, without any machinery ; wmilst 
the loom for weaving is of a rude and simple construction. 
The art of dyeing is also generally known. Different colours 
are used to ornament their garments ; but the most common is a 
permanent blue obtained from indigo, which is an indigenous 
plant on the banks of the Gambia, and in other places. In 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 43 

earthenware, they manufacture coarse dishes, pots, and jars ; 
some of which are ornamented with various devices, as are also 
the calabashes which they prepare and use for various domestic 
purposes. Mats used for sitting and sleeping on are also 
staple articles of manufacture in many parts of Western 
Africa ; w r hilst the art of tanning and working in leather is gene- 
rally practised : some of the articles thus made, as sandals, 
greegrees, pouches, &c, are sometimes beautifully ornamented. 
But the best specimens of native art which we have seen, are those 
which exist in different kinds of metal. Iron, copper, and gold 
are found in various parts of the country. These the natives 
smelt, and work up into a variety of articles with wonderful 
ingenuity, with tools of the rudest description. The gold 
rings, chains, and bracelets, which we have seen manufactured 
in Western Africa, might, in some instances, have been taken 
for the work of English goldsmiths, so delicate were both the 
designs and the workmanship. 

We would now call the attention of the reader to the moral 
and religious condition of the numerous tribes inhabiting 
Western Africa. And here a dark and gloomy picture presents 
itself to our view ; for what can we expect in a land where the 
Christian's Bible, and Sabbath, and Saviour, are unknown? 
Truly " darkness covers the earth, and gross darkness the 
minds of the people." 

The entire population of Western Africa was no doubt pagan 
at no very remote period ; but in modern times the religion of 
the false prophet has extensively prevailed, having been zealously 
propagated with fire and sword by the northern tribes of Arab 
descent. But there is not so much difference between the 
Mohammedanism and the Paganism of the Negroes as many sup- 
pose. The distinction is rather nominal than real, so far as the 
moral conduct of the people is concerned. All profess to believe 
in the existence of God, if a very confused notion of a higher 
power may be so designated ; but all are entirely ignorant of 
the character of the Divine Being, and exceedingly superstitious. 
This is evident from the earnestness with which they resort to 
their greegrees and fetish, in times of difficulty and danger, and 
the confidence which they place in their ability to procure for 



44 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

them every good which they require, and to defend them against 
every kind of evil. The followers of the false prophet are gene- 
rally fatalists. 

Greegree, or saphie, is the name given by Mohammedans to the 
charms or amulets which they wear upon their persons, and sus- 
pend in their dwellings. They generally consist of a few sen- 
tences in Arabic, extracted from the Koran, written on slips of 
paper by the Priest, or Maraboo, who carries on a profitable 
trade in this branch of his profession ; a high price being fre- 
quently paid for one of them. When they are to be worn on 
the person as ornaments, these scraps of writing are enclosed in 
small pieces of red cloth, or leather, neatly stitched up, and 
stained in various colours, with thongs attached, with which to 
suspend them from the neck, or bind them to the arms. One 
of these greegrees will be worn to preserve the person from 
being pierced with a spear or musket-ball in battle ; another, to 
prevent drowning, by the upsetting of the canoe; whilst a third 
will be suspended open, as an inscription, in the hut or store, to 
secure prosperity in trade, &c. So numerous are the purposes 
for which these foolish charms are used, that we have frequently 
seen the superstitious natives almost covered w T ith them from 
head to foot ; and we have witnessed some affecting instances 
of the implicit confidence which is placed in them on occasions 
of emergency. To show that the Mohammedan Negroes are not 
very particular as to the construction of their amulets, and to prove 
the superstitious regard which they pay to any thing belonging to 
white men, it may be stated that, on one occasion, on a greegree 
being cut open, it was found to contain nothing more than a 
square of white man's soap, with the mark, clear and legible, 
" Genuine Brown Windsor ! " 

The little incident just mentioned may serve to show the 
intimate relationship which exists between the greegree and the 
fetish, in the confused and ignorant mind of the degraded 
Negro. Whilst the greegree of the Mohammedan consists of a 
written charm, as already stated, the fetish of the Pagan is made 
of almost any thing consecrated by the Priest for the purpose ; 
the stranger the matter employed, the greater confidence appears 
to be placed in it. The most common articles used in the con- 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 45 

struction of fetishes, to be worn on the person, or hung up in 
the house, are the heads, claws, and bones of various kinds of 
birds, animals, or serpents. These are enclosed in the horns of 
sheep, deer, or other animals, or encased in cloth or leather, 
and suspended by thongs, like the Mussulman's greegree. We 
have known instances in which the Negroes have obtained a 
lcck of a white man's hair, or the parings of his finger-nails, for 
the purpose of fetish, having a high opinion of their power to 
preserve thern from evil. 

In addition to the superstitious confidence which the degraded 
African exercises in these foolish things, he is in the habit of 
noting lucky and unlucky days, and of performing numerous 
siily rites and ceremonies, on going to war, or on commencing a 
journey, which partake of the nature of witchcraft. When 
questioned on the subject, we have never known them give any 
reason for their strange conduct, beyond that which they have 
always at hand, and which they make use of on almost every 
occasion ; namely, they do so " because their forefathers did so, 
and they are quite satisfied to tread in the steps of their forefathers." 

Some of the superstitious rites and ceremonies of the Negro 
race partake more of the nature of open idolatry, than any of 
those which have yet been mentioned. For instance, they pay 
homage to certain lakes, rivers, and mountains, which they 
regard as sacred, believing them to be the abode of their gods. 
They also adore various animals and reptiles, which they con- 
sider to be inspired by spiritual beings. At Dix Cove a large 
crocodile constantly receives Divine honours. It is kept in a 
large pond, near the fort ; and any person going on shore at 
that place may have a sight of it, at the expense of a white fowl 
and a bottle of rum. The fetish-man takes the fowl and the 
spirits, and, proceeding to the pond, makes a peculiar whistling 
noise with his mouth ; on which the crocodile comes forth and 
receives the fowl as his share of the present, whilst the priest 
appropriates the liquor to himself. Some years ago, Mr. Hutch- 
inson and Captain Leavens were exposed to considerable risk, 
on paying a visit to this place ; for, the fowl having escaped 
from the fetish-man into the bush, the crocodile made towards 
them, and pressed them so closely that, had not a dog crossed 



4n PA.RT I. — WESTEBN AFRICA. 

their path, of which the animal made his repast, one of them 
would most probably have fallen a victim to his rapacil 

But not only does creation, animate and inanimate, furnish 
objects of adoration to this deluded people ; they have also 
recourse to artificial devices, in the form of rudely carved images, 
clumps of stones, bundles of sticks, and other things equally 
absurd. In many places the people avowedly worship I e 
devil himself, declaring that nothing can harm them but S 
and that if they cultivate friendship with him all will be we'i. 

In common with many other heathen nations, the Afri 
offer sacrifices to their deiti-s. Fowls, oxen, sheep, goats, and 
dogs, are slain for this purpose; as the deluded natives are 
strongly impressed with the idea that their gods delight in 
blood. But the most awful circumstance which has come under 
our notice, in connexion with African superstitions, is that of 
the offering human sacrifices ; which prevails to an alarming 
extent, especially in the kingdoms of Ashanti and Dahonri. If 
a King or a nobleman wishes to convey a message to a departed 
friend in the world of spirits, he whispers the messase in the 
ears of a slave, and immediately has his head struck off. And 
at the death of persons of distinction hundreds and thousands 
of hapless human beings are cruelly slaughtered, that their spirits 
may, in the unseen world, attend upon that of the distinguished 
person deceased, in honour of whom they are slain. On the 
death of the King of Dahomi, a few years ago, two hundred and 
eighty of his wives fell victims to the sanguinary superstitions 
of the country ; and still larger numbers have fallen in Ashanti 
on similar occasions. 

This dark account of the African cruelties and superstitions 
may be appropriately closed by a brief extract from the most 
recent missionary communications which have reached this 
country. The Rev. A. Bushnell says: '"'After visiting the 
principal Chiefs, I went to see several of their jvju, or ' devil- 
houses.' The principal one is a rude, thatch-roofed edifice; 
upon entering the door of which. I saw grinning at me fc 
five hundred human skulls, with which the pillars and walls were 
lined ; and. as I crossed the room, I walked upon a pavement of 
numan skulls. The sight was the most ghastly and horrid I 



i 



CHAP. II. — THE NATIVE POPULATION. 47 

have ever seen. As, with trepidation, I retreated from this 
habitation of devils, my attention was called to a scaffold eight 
or ten feet high, in the yard near the door, on which were a 
large quantity of human bones, some of which seemed fresh and 
new. Upon inquiry, I learned that these were the bones of 
enemies taken or killed in war, or for witchcraft; and some of 
the flesh had been eaten, and the blood drunk, in horrid fetish 
orgies. To this temple the sick are brought to sleep, and to 
have incantations performed over them. Prom this charnel- 
house I went to call upon Juju Jack, ' the arch-priest/ or ' chief 
devil-man.' I found him sitting in the porch of his dwelling, 
with emblems of his craft on either side. He conducted me 
through a room in which were skulls and fetishes, and through 
a dark passage, into a back apartment, where I was furnished 
with a chair, and offered palm wine. He is a fiendish- 
looking elderly man, and seems capable of any work of cruelty 
and blood." 

From the statements which we have now made with reference 
to the moral degradation in which the Mohammedan and pagan 
tribes of Western Africa are involved, the reader is no doubt 
satisfied that a country where such scenes are witnessed as those 
which we have described, may with propriety be called a " land 
of darkness." But we have still a darker shade to give to the 
picture. To the long list of abominations practised by the 
people, as wars, slavery, superstition, idolatry, human sacrifices, 
and devil-worship, we must now add the awful crime of canni- 
balism. We were long since aware that, in the furious and 
fiendish triumphs of the battle-field, the Ashanti warriors and 
other native soldiers were in the habit of drinking the blood 
and eating the hearts of their vanquished enemies, from a super- 
stitious notion that they would, by doing so, imbibe the courage 
and warlike spirit of those whom they had slain ; but we were 
not, till recently, prepared to admit that, in any part of the vast 
continent, Africans could be found who would deliberately slay 
and devour each other. But from well-authenticated accounts 
which have lately come to hand, it appears to be even so. 

For fearful illustrations of African cannibalism, we might 
refer the reader to the Travels of Du Chaillu, and other pub- 



48 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

lications ; but the most recent information which we have 
received on the subject, is that brought by the " Armenian, 5 ' 
mail steamer, which arrived at Liverpool on the 13th of March, 
1862. When that vessel was in the Bonny River, on the 19th 
of January, a report was circulated that a cannibal feast was 
about to be made in the town ; but no one gave credit to the 
rumour. A party went on shore, however, on the 1st of Feb- 
ruary, and were horrified to see, when walking through the 
place, no less than five human heads, arranged in the most sys- 
tematic order on the grass, with a fire close to, and a large pot 
ready for cooking. At another spot close by, lay arms, legs, 
&c, in course of being prepared for the pot ; while an old black 
woman was engaged in slicing up a human liver for the " stew ! " 
But we must turn away from the sickening sight, confessing, 
with feelings of shame for poor degraded human nature, that 
" the dark places of the earth are " still " full of the habitations of 
cruelty;" and with an earnest prayer that the light of the 
glorious Gospel of Christ may soon shine on every portion of 
that benighted country ! 



CHAPTER III. 

AFRICAN SLAVERY AXD THE SLAVE TRADE. 

P revalence of Slavery — Sources — ^Var — Famine — Insolvency — Crime — 
Uses — Condition — Slave Trade — Discovery of America — Portuguese — 
Spaniards — Abolition Labourers — Friends — W esley — Sharp — Clarkson 
— "Wilberforce — British Slave Trade abolished — Further Efforts — 
British Slavery abolished — Slave Trade continued by others — Extent 
— Cruelty — Mortality — Little Benome. 

It may be truly said of Western Africa, that it is a land of 
slaves ; and no one acquainted with the state of society in that 
unhappy country will for a moment doubt the truth of this 
startling declaration. On this painful subject we have received 
our own impressions from personal observations on the spot ; 



CHAP. III. — SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 49 

but it appears desirable, on this occasion, to advert to the 
testimony of others, that in the mouth of two or three wit- 
nesses every word may be verified. Every traveller who has 
visited the coast, or passed through the interior, testifies to the 
general prevalence of slavery. When he appeared before the 
West African Committee of the House of Commons, Colonel 
^sicholls said, " I know no other characters in Africa than 
master and slave." And Mr. M'Queen, on a similar occasion, 
said, " Slavery and the slave trade form the general law of 
Africa. These two evils reign acknowledged, sanctioned, known, 
recognised, and submitted to, by her population of every rank 
and degree, throughout all her extended borders." According 
to the computation of Park, three-fourths of the entire popula- 
tion are in a state of bondage. In his first journey to Kanu, 
Captain Clapperton, estimating its inhabitants at 40,000, 
records his opinion that at least one-half of the population were 
slaves. At a subsequent visit to the same place, however 3 
he ascertained that his first impression had been too favourable ; 
for he was now informed that there were no fewer than thirty 
slaves for every free man. The same traveller incidentally 
mentions a village in the neighbourhood of Sakatu, where only 
one in seventy of the inhabitants was free. As illustrative of 
the number of slaves, and the manner in which they were some- 
times employed, Major Denham states that the Sultan of Bornu 
had, at one time, in his service thirty thousand armed slaves as 
native soldiers. 

The testimonies here given of the prevalence of slavery in 
Western Africa have a reference chiefly, if not exclusively, to 
Mohammedan states. Xow, when we remember the fact that, 
according to the laws of the Koran, a Moslem may enslave a 
Kaffir or unbeliever, but cannot hold in bondage one of his own 
faith, we are led to infer that in those districts which are purely 
Pagan, slavery is still more predominant. This inference is 
fully borne out by a careful examination of the facts of the case. 
According to Clapperton, the whole population of Yariba may 
be considered in a state of slavery, either to the King or his 
Caboceers. And it is said that in Ashanti, Fanti, and Dahomi, 
in addition to ths large numbers kept in bondage by the 



50 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

respective Kings, each Caboceer or nobleman possesses thousands 
of slaves, whilst the inferior Chiefs and Captains own a propor- 
tionate number. It is therefore highly probable that the esti- 
mate of Park is much too low, if applied to Western Africa as a 
whole ; and that there are considerably more than three-fourths 
of the entire population in a state of bondage. 

Let us now glance at the means by which this gigantic evil 
is sustained, or the sources from which the slaves are supplied. 
As slavery is everywhere hereditary, all children bora in this 
state are doomed to a life of perpetual bondage. But there are 
other sources from which the supply is kept up, which are 
deserving of notice. The principal of these are war, famine, 
insolvency, and crime. 

When the nations or tribes of Western Africa go to war with 
each other, even on political grounds, the victors invariably 
reduce the vanquished to a state of slavery, even if they have 
been free before. This praciice has prevailed in other lands ; 
but in Africa we have the fearful spectacle exhibited to our view 
of wars waged for the avowed purpose of supplying the demand 
for slaves created by a foreign slave trade, to the enormities of 
which we shall have occasion to refer hereafter. 

People previously in a state of freedom are sometira reduced 
to slavery by famine. In a country where the soil is remarkably 
fertile, and the necessaries of life are produced with little labour, 
it may appear strange to some that famine should ever be 
known. It must be remembered, however, that the seasons 
favourable for cultivation are sometimes very irregular, and the 
people are proverbiaL for their improvidence and recklessness as 
to the future ; consequently, when the crop has failed, the 
natives are reduced to great straits, and are induced to sell 
their children as slaves for food to eat. Park gives an affecting 
instance of this kind, which came under his own notice after he 
had left the Gambia. He says, " The scarcity of provisions 
was felt at this time most severely by the poor people, as the 
following circumstance most painfully convinced me. Every 
evening during my stay, I observed five or six women come to 
the mansas house, and receive each of them a quantity of corn. 
As I knew how valuable this article was at this juncture, I 



CHAP. III. — SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 51 

inquired of the mama whether he maintained these poor women 
from pure bounty, or expected a return when the harvest should 
be gathered in. c Observe that boy, 5 said he, pointing to a fine 
child about five years of age ; c his mother has sold him to me 
for forty days' provision. I have bought another boy in the 
sane manner.' I could not get this melancholy subject out of my 
mind; and the next night, when the women returned for their 
allowance, I desired the boy to point out to me his mother, 
which he did. She was much emaciated ; and when she received 
her corn, she came and talked to her son with as much cheerful- 
ness as though he had been still under her care." 

Another common source of African slavery is insolvency. A 
Negro trader contracts debts on account of some mercantile 
speculation, either by purchasing from his neighbours 
such articles as will sell to advantage in a distant market, 
or by obtaining goods from the European traders on the 
coast, with the promise of making payment at a given time. 
If he succeeds, he gains a large profit on the enterprise ; 
but if he fails, all his remaining property, and his person, his 
family, and services, are at the disposal of another ; for in 
YVestern Africa not only the effects of the insolvent, but even 
the insolvent himself and his children, are sold to satisfy the 
demands of his creditors. There is, moreover, a modified kind 
of slavery on the coast, under the name of "pawns." which, 
we regret to say, has been to a considerable extent sanctioned 
by British merchants. This subject has attracted the notice of 
the English Government, who have decided that the system is 
totally at variance with the Acts of Parliament abolishing 
slavery anil the slave trade throughout the British dominions. 
To show the real identity of the " pawn system " with the spirit 
of slavery, we need only remark that in the investigations which 
were made on the subject, one witness said, C( A pawn is a man 
who runs into debt, and who, in order to discharge the debt, 
pawns himself until he redeems himself." Another described 
pawns as persons who had " sold themselves into bondage, from 
which they can only be emancipated by pecuniary payments ; 
and if not so emancipated, they must live and die in servitude." 

E 2 



52 PART I. WESTERN AFRICA. 

This witness acknowledged that he had " known both slaves 
and pawns sold at public auction." 

In addition to the means already mentioned, people in Western 
Africa are liable to lose their freedom by the commission of 
crime. Almost every kind of offence, whether theft, witchcraft, 
adultery, or murder, is punished by the sentence of perpetual 
bondage. Sometimes, however, the criminal is allowed to 
redeem himself by offering to the King or the offended party, or 
both, a certain amount of property, or a number of other slaves. 

The enormous extent to which man holds his brother man in 
bondage, regarding him as bond fide property, in Africa, will 
still more fully appear, if we consider the various uses to which 
slaves are applied in Africa. 

Slaves have, in many parts of the country, become the prin- 
cipal articles of barter, and are regarded in the light of " current 
money with the merchant." Many kinds of merchandise can be 
purchased with slaves, and with nothing else ; other articles of 
produce, as an equivalent, being positively refused. A poor 
Negro, who had passed through the hands of several masters on 
his way to the coast, related in all simplicity how he was first 
sold for a single hoe, then for some salt, and then again for 
some cloth, when he finally passed into the hands of the 
European merchant. Major Denham states that the Sultan of 
Sakatu received tribute from his dependent states chiefly in 
slaves. 

When the country remains for a time in a comparatively 
quiet and settled state, the slaves are the artisans and agricul- 
tural labourers of Western Africa. Hired servants and persons 
voluntarily working in any department for pay are unknown ; 
every free man possessing his establishment of domestic slaves. 
It is quite common to hear an African of consequence summing 
up the wealth which he possesses, as consisting in " gold, slaves, 
herds, and horses." Slaves are also the marriage bonus with 
which he purchases each additional wife, and frequently the 
only inheritance which he leaves to his children. 

Such are some of the uses to which African slavery is applied by 
the few who are free in their own country, as domestic property ; 
but when they are set apart as offerings, or to be sent to other 



CHAP. III. — SLAVERY AND THE SLATE TEADE. 53 

lands, their fate is most deplorable. Tens of thousands of poor 
slaves are collected to be offered up as human sacrifices, in the 
performance of bloody superstitious rites, as we have already 
seen ; and millions more have been dragged away from the land 
of their birth, and doomed to wear out their lives in helpless 
bondage, for the benefit of others, as we shall yet have to relate 
more particularly. 

But we cannot dismiss the subject of slavery in Africa with- 
out a few remarks on the condition to which slaves are there 
reduced, and the treatment which they generally receive at the 
hands of their masters. 

The apologists of Negro slavery have frequently expatiated on 
the real or supposed instances of kind treatment on the part of 
slave owners ; and we are free to admit that, in the course of 
our missionary experience, we have met with such cases. Even in 
Africa itself there is a marked difference between the condition 
of domestic slaves, that is, those who have been born and 
brought up in the families of their masters, and those who have 
been taken in war, or purchased with money. It is the general 
rule not to sell, or otherwise dispose of, the former ; but the 
latter are regarded as so much stock on hand for the purpose of 
barter. Domestic slaves are, moreover, usually treated with 
considerable lenity, and sometimes even advanced to stations 
of confidence and authority, as was Joseph in Egypt. 

But in its mildest form slavery is slavery ; and wherever it 
exists, and under whatever circumstances, it exhibits the same 
moral deformity, and ought to be viewed with detestation, and 
reprobated with boldness, by every one who bears the Chris- 
tian name. However mildly treated, it must be remembered 
that the poor slave has no real property in himself, nor in any- 
thing which he may be said to possess. His goods, his wife, 
his children, his body, bones, flesh, blood, and sinews, are not 
his own. They belong to his master, and are entirely at his 
disposal. He lives, and breathes, and moves not for himself, 
but for the pleasure and profit of a fellow mortal ; and is liable 
to the most unkind and cruel treatment, at the whim and 
caprice of his owner. 

Whilst domestic slaves in Africa are in general exempt from 



54 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

harsh treatment, it is otherwise with those who are literally 
held as merchandise for the purpose of traffic. These are not 
only torn away from everything which is dear to them on earth, 
— separated from parents, brothers, sisters, and friends, — but 
they are confined in chains, flogged, driven from place to place, 
as sheep for the market. Listen to the sorrowful words of one 
who had himself tasted the bitter cup of bondage. " When 
we came to that place, I was quite faint , for I had been without 
food some time. I began to weep, and fell to the ground. 
My master lifted his hand and knocked me about the head, 
saying he would kill me and eat me. I thought then all was 
over. I expected that the dagger would be driven into my 
bowels every moment." In that land of darkness, cruelty, 
and blood, a master may take away the life of his slave with 
impunity ; and, what is still worse, in some districts the female 
part of the slave population are commonly and systematically 
let out for hire for the purpose of prostitution, and are liable to 
the grossest abuses to which their savage masters may choose to 
subject them. 

Such is slavery in Western Africa, its own original home ; but 
we have a still darker page to turn over. We have to consider 
the slave trade, properly so called, — the traffic in which Africa 
was induced to engage with foreign countries for the flesh and 
blood, the bodies and souls, of her own sons. 

Upwards of four hundred years ago several attempts were 
made by enterprising Portuguese navigators to explore the 
coast of Africa. At length th-ey succeeded in passing the 
Canary Islands, Cape Verd, and along the coast of Guinea. 
The third or fourth of these attempts brought them into contact 
with the Negroes. As early as 1434, Antonio Gonzales, a 
Portuguese Captain, landed on the Gold Coast, and carried 
away with him some Negro boys, whom he sold to one or two 
Moorish families in the south of Spain. This act seems to have 
excited some criticism at the time ; but from that day it became 
customary for the Captains of vessels visiting the coast of 
Africa to carry away a few young Negroes of both sexes. The 
labour of these Negroes, whether on board the ships which 
carried them away, or in the ports to w r hich the ships belonged, 



CHAP III. — SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 

being found valuable, the practice soon grew into a regular traffic ; 
and Negroes, instead of being taken away in twos and threes, 
as mere curiosities, soon came to form a part of the regular 
cargo, as well as gold, ivory, and gum. The ships no longer 
went on voyages of discovery, but for valuable cargoes; and 
the inhabitants of the Negro villages along the coast, delighted 
with the beads, buttons, knives, and other trinkets which 
they got in exchange for gold, ivory, and slaves, took care to 
have these articles ready for the vessels when they arrived. 
Thus the slave trade was commenced by the Portuguese, but 
the Spaniards soon after joined them in the infamous traffic. 

Perhaps this strange and iniquitous species of mercantile 
trade would never have become very extensive, had not a circum- 
stance occurred which gave it a great impetus. This was the 
discovery of America and the West Indies by the celebrated 
Columbus, in the year 1493. When the Spaniards first took 
possession of the islands, they employed the natives, or Indians, 
as they called them, to do ail their heavy kinds of work, as 
cultivating the ground, carrying burdens, and digging for gold. 
In fact, these Indians, ere long, became the slaves of their 
Spanish conquerors ; and it was customary, in assigning lands to 
a person, to make over to him at the same time all the natives 
residing upon them, 

It was soon evident, however, that these poor, timid, listless 
aborigines of the West Indies, accustomed only to hunting and 
fishing, were not only indisposed, but totally unfit for arduous toil. 
Under the united influence of hard labour, cruel treatment, and 
disease introduced by the strangers, they melted away in the 
presence of their conquerors, with a rapidity truly alarming. In 
a few years after the arrival of the Spaniards, tens of thousands 
perished. WTien x\lbuquerque entered upon his office as 
Governor of St. Domingo, in 1515, he found that, whereas in 
1508 the natives numbered 60,000, they did not then amount 
to 14,000 ; and there appeared nothing in prospect but the 
ultimate extinction of the entire race of Indians, if the same 
system of cruelty and oppression should be continued. 

Under these circumstances the enterprising but avaricious 
colonists were led to consider what could be done to meet the 



56 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

emergency. Labourers must be had from some quarter ; and 
the idea was suggested that African Negroes would be 
adapted for the purpose. As early as lc _:• : 

had been carried across the Aria;.::; and it was found not only 
that each of these Negroes could do as much work as four Indians, 
but that, while the Indians were fast becoming extinct, the 
Africans were thriving wonderfully, and : r increasing in 
number. It was now resolved to import Negroes is Fast is 
possible, which was accordingly done. The old Spanish 
historian Herrera informs ns that, "in the year 1510, the King 
of Spain ordered fifty Negro slaves to be sent to Hispaniola. to 
work in the gold mines ; the natives being looked upon as a 
weak people, and unfit for much labour." This was but the 
beginning of the accursed slave trade ; for, notwithstanding the 
remonstrances of some of the Eo - iests and Cardin 3 
felt the wrong that was being inflicted upon the poor Negroes, 
cargo after cargo was carried in rapid succession to this and 
other islands of the West Indies. In the records of this dark 
period we find Charles V. giving one of his Flemish favourites 
the exclusive right of shipping four thousand Negrc a - : the New 
World; but this large number fell far short of meeting the rapidly 
increasing demand for labourers, and it was soon followed by 
the importation of tens of thousands into the new colonies. 

The African slave trade, thus inaugurated by the Spaniards, 
was not long left entirely in their hands. A: first the Spaniards 
had all America and the West Indies to themselves ; and as 
it was in these countries that African labourers were in the 
greatest demand, the Spaniards alone possessed large numbers 
of Negroes. But other nations soon came to have colonies in 
the New World ; and as Negroes were found to be invaluable in 
the foundation of a new colony, other nations came to participate 
in the guilt of this new traffic. The first recognition of the 
slave trade by the English Government was in 1562, in the 
reign of Queen Elizabeth, when an Act was passed legalizing 
the purchase of Negroes. This was to meet the demand antici- 
pated by the planting of the fir.-: British colonies ou the conti- 
nent of America. But, these early efforts at colonization being 
unsuccessful, it was not till 1616 that the first Negroes were 



CHAP. III. SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE TRADE. ol 

imported into Virginia ; and these were brought over, not by an 
English slave ship, but by a Dutch vessel which touched at the 
; ?-. with a cargo of Negroes for the Spanish colonies. After 
this, however, the English were no longer indebted to foreign 
ships for this kind of service ; but, with a view to the large 
profits which were to be realized, they launched into the slave 
trade with characteristic zeal and earnestness, carrying on an 
extensive trade with the coast of Africa for slaves, gold, ivory, 
and bees-wax. The French, Dutch, and all other nations of 
any commercial importance, soon became involved in the 
traffic ; those who had colonies, to supply the demand there ; and 
those who had none, to make money by assisting to supply the 
demands of other countries. Before the middle of the seventeenth 
dpi ltui y, the African slave trade was in full vigour ; and all 

: pe was implicated in the buying and selling of Negroes. It 
is stated by Macpherson, in his " History of Commerce," that 
"the number of Africans shipped in 1768, by all nations, for 
America and the West Indies, was estimated at 97,000 ; that 
of these the British shipping took 60,000, and the French 
23,000; the remainder being divided in small portions among the 
ships of other nations, the Portuguese at that time only taking 
1,1 - . . In succeeding years the slave trade became still more 

Dsive ; and it has been estimated that in the course of a 
single century 2,130,000 Negroes were imported into the 
British West Indies alone, independent of the vast multitudes 
enslaved by other nations. As far back as 1732, Liverpool 
alone, in one year, procured 22,720 slaves; the net profits being 
£214.,617. 

The effects produced in Africa itself, by this wholesale traffic 
in her own children, may be more readily imagined than de- 
scribed. It stamped with a tenfold curse that system of 
slavery which had previously existed for so many years in that 
dark benighted land. The demand for slaves was now so jrreatj 
and the prices offered by the Captains of slave ships, in red 
cloth, knives, looking glasses, beads, and other trinkets, were so 
tempting that all kinds of means were adopted to procure the 
required number of victims. Domestic slaves, who had hitherto 
been a privileged class, were now frequently sold and sent oil 



58 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

for the most trifling offences. Petty wars were wa^ed for the 
express purpose of seizing and dragging into hopeless bond- 
age young Negroes of both sexes ; the old people and infants 

being frequently put to death as not available for the purpose. 
Wicked men were perpetually prowling about with a view to kid- 
nap and carry off those who came within their reach ; and it 
was not an unusual circumstance for a friend, a brother, a sister, 
or a child, to fall into the hands of the " man-stealer," who 
thus stood related to his helpless victim by the tenderest ties of 
nature. This state of strife and enmity, and earnest desire to 
enslave each other for the sake of paltry gain, was not confined 
to the immediate neighbourhood of the coast, but extended to 
the interior of the vast continent. In this way Central Africa 
came to be the great mother of the slaves required for expor- 
tation ; and the Negro villages on the coast, under the control 
of petty interested native Chiefs, were converted into so many 
nurseries or warehouses, where the Negroes were kept till the 
ships of the white men came to cany them across the Atlantic. 

As the slave trade became fully organized, means were adopted 
by the European merchants to secure greater constancy and 
regularity in the supply of Negroes. At first the slave vessels 
only visited the coast of Africa in a casual way, and bargained 
with the native Chiefs and head men for such slaves or other 
produce as they Happened to have on hand. But this was 
found to be an inconvenient and clumsy mode of conducting 
the business. The ships had to sail along an extensive tract of 
coast, picking up a little ivory at one place, and a few slaves at 
another, and were thus often delayed till the sickly season set in, 
when all hands were prostrated by fever, and many removed by 
death. As an improvement on this method of trading, the plan 
was adopted of organizing African trading companies, and of 
planting a number of European settlements at intervals along 
the coast, with regular agents, whose business it should be to 
negotiate with the native traders, stimulate them to activity in 
their slave hunting expeditions, and purchase slaves and other 
produce, in order that the cargoes might be ready when the ships 
arrived at the proper season. These settlements were called 
slave factories. Establishments of this kind were planted all 



CHAP. III. — SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 59 

along the Western Coast of Africa, from Cape Yerd to the 
Equator, by English, Dutch, and Portuguese companies, or indi- 
vidual traders. Their appearance, the character of the men 
employed in them, their internal arrangements, and their mode 
of carrying on the traffic, are vividly described by Howison, in 
his book on " European Colonies," and by other writers who 
were engaged in the controversial discussion of African affairs 
about the beginning of the present century ; but into these 
particulars we cannot here enter. 

The junior factors, who are spoken of as penetrating into 
the interior, and forming branch establishments for the carrying 
on of the slave trade, exerted a fearfully demoralizing influence 
upon the people. To say nothing of the lives of dissipation and 
sensuality which they led, and the example which they set 
before the natives, they were the direct means of calling into 
existence a vast number of slave markets in various parts of 
the country ; and of giving to the abominable traffic a character 
of horror and cruelty unknown before. To recite the testi- 
monies of individual travellers who occasionally visited the 
country, and to dwell on the instances of suffering which they 
witnessed, as the poor Negroes w r ere being driven from the land 
of their birth, would be to tell a tale of woe which might well 
arouse the feelings of the most obdurate heart. Hence we are 
not surprised that, in process of time, attention should have 
been directed to the enormities of this wholesale system of 
man-stealing and murder : or that, in highly favoured England, 
even in an age of comparative darkness, means should have 
been devised to put an end to it. 

Having thus briefly traced the rise, progress, extent, and 
character of the African slave trade, we would now direct the 
attention of the reader to the circumstances which led to its 
nominal abolition, and to the real state of the question as it 
exists at the present day. 

As early as the year 1512, — when the importation of Negroes 
to the West Indies began to assume the character of a regular 
trade, to supply the place of the poor Indians, who were 
fast passing away, — Cardinal Ximenes protested against the 
thing as a sin against God and man ; but such was the cupidity 



60 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

of the parties interested that his pious remonstrance was disre- 
garded. In the middle of the seventeenth century, the Rev. 
Morgan Godwyn, an English Clergyman, who had himself wit- 
nessed the horrors of slavery in the island of Barbadoes, 
broached the subject by writing upon it in a book called " Tne 
Negro and Indian's Advocate ;" and about a century later John 
Woolman and Anthony Benezet, two members of the Society of 
Friends in America, were fully possessed with the abolition 
spirit. Woolman travelled far and near among the people of 
his own persuation, trying to get them to relinquish all con- 
nexion with the traffic in Negroes ; and Benezet founded and 
taught a Negro school in Philadelphia, whilst at the same time 
he denounced the slave trade in various publications. So 
powerful was the effect produced by the united labours of these 
two men, especially upon the religious community to which they 
belonged, that in the year 1754 the " Friends," in America 
came to a resolution, declaring " that, to live in ease and plenty 
by the toil of those whom fraud and violence had put into their 
power, was consistent neither with Christianity nor with common 
justice." This declaration was followed up by the abolition of 
slave labour among the "Friends," — the penalty of keeping a 
slave being excommunication from the Society. From this 
time the Society of Friends, as a religious community, dis- 
tinguished themselves by unwearied efforts to ameliorate the 
condition of the poor Negro ; and the first petition ever pre- 
sented to the British Parliament on the subject of slavery 
emanated from them. 

A committee of benevolent gentlemen was at length organized, 
for the express purpose of procuring the abolition of the African 
slave trade, and public feeling was aroused to a state of great 
excitement on the subject. Several talented and powerful 
writers also appeared on the stage of action, at an early period, 
as the friends and advocates of the Negro race. Amongst these 
may be mentioned Richard Baxter, Bishop Porteus, James 
Ramsay, Joseph Woods, George Whitefield, and John Wesley. 
Some of these honoured Ministers of the Gospel were able to 
speak and write from experience, having witnessed the abomi- 
nations of slavery in America and the West Indies. Mr. 



CHAP. III. — SLAVERY AND THE SLATE TRADE. 61 

Wesley, especially, took up the subject with characteristic zeal 
and earnestness. In his masterly tractate, entitled " Thoughts 
on Slavery," ne denounced the traffic in human beings as the 
" sum of all villanies," and placed the subject, in all its bearings, 
in a most convincing and impressive light before the British 
public. The interest of the venerable founder of Methodism 
in the oppressed Negro race continued unabated to the end of his 
useful life; and it is an interesting fact that the last letter that 
he ever wrote w r as addressed to Mr. Wilberforce on the subject 
a few days before his death, urging the philanthropist to proceed 
in his " glorious enterprise" of seeking the entire abolition of 
the accursed traffic. " Go on," he writes, " in the name of 
God, and in the power of His might, till even ximerican slavery 
(the vilest that ever saw the sun) shall vanish away before it." 

In every historical sketch of the anti-slavery movement in 
England, however brief, honourable mention must be made of 
three other noble-minded and philanthropic gentlemen who 
took a prominent part in the political struggle with which it 
was attended. We allude to Granville Sharp, Thomas Clark- 
son, and William Wilberforce. These w r ere the three brightest 
stars of the moral hemisphere, during the age in which they 
lived, around which other labourers in the cause of emancipation 
revolved as mere satellites. 

About the year 1765, the case of a poor Negro, whom his 
master had cast adrift in a state of disease in London, attracted 
the notice of the benevolent Mr. Sharp, and induced him to 
espouse the cause of the suffering Negroes in general. He per- 
severed in exposing every case of sale or seizure of slaves in 
England ; and finally, by an action at law 7 , to prevent a Negro 
named Somerset from being forcibly taken away by his 
master, procured from the bench, in 1772, that famous decision 
that, "when a slave puts his foot on English ground, he is free." 
It was this circumstance which elicited from Cowper the fol- 
lowing beautiful lines : — 

" Slaves cannot breathe in England : if their lungs 
Imbibe our air, that moment they are free : 
They touch our country, and their shackles fall. 
That's noble, and bespeaks a nation proud 



62 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

And jealous of the blessing. Spread on, then, 
And let it circulate through every vein 
Of all our empire : that where Britain's power 
Is felt, mankind may feel her mercy too." 

In 1785 the Vice-Chancellor of the University of Cambridge 
proposed " the slave trade," as the subject of a prize essay. 
This prize was gained by the philanthropic Mr. Clarkson, then a 
young man of twenty-four. The study of the subject, in con- 
nexion with the preparation of his Essay, made such a powerful 
impression upon the mind of the young student that he was 
induced, from that time, to consecrate all his powers of body 
and mind to the cause of abolition. He visited every person 
that he could find, in and around London, who had been ill 
Africa or the West Indies, or in any situation which gave them 
an insight into the slave trade. He boarded vessels that had 
been engaged in the traffic, and inspected the wretched apart- 
ments in which the slaves had been confined during their 
passage across the Atlantic. In one word, he devoted his whole 
life to waging an implacable war against slavery and the slave 
trade in all their horrid forms. 

The evidence collected by Clarkson on the subject of the 
slave trade, attracted the attention of Wilberforce, and secured 
his valuable co-operation. On Sunday, the 28th of October, 
1787, Mr. Wilberforce made this striking entry in his Journal : 
" God Almighty has placed before me two great objects, — the 
suppression of the slave trade, and the reformation of manners." 
The reformation of manners he did not accomplish, but the 
suppression of the slave trade he did ; and just before he passed 
away from this world, he was cheered with the delightful intel- 
ligence that the royal assent had been given to the Bill entirely 
abolishing slavery from the British dominions. This was the 
result of a long and arduous struggle, however ; and it required 
the united and constant efforts of Wilberforce, Clarkson, and 
Sharp, together with others of the powerful confederacy which 
they organized to carry on the campaign. 

For twenty years did this noble band of Christian philanthro- 
pists labour, before the first great object at which they aimed 
was fully accomplished. Information on the extent and abomi- 



CHAP. III. — SLAVERY AND THE SLATE TRADE. 63 

nations of the slave trade was carefully collected and zealously 
circulated ; Parliament was urged by petitions to interpose on 
behalf of the poor Negroes : but, although some minor measures 
were adopted, professedly to abate some of the cruelties of the 
traffic, for seven years in succession was Mr. Wilberforce's 
annual motion for its abolition thrown out. Such was the 
result of the influence exercised by interested parties both in 
England and in the colonies. Still the friends of freedom per- 
severed in their noble work ; and, by the blessing of God, their 
efforts were at length crowned with complete success. The Bill 
for the total abolition of the British slave trade, on and after 
the 1st of January, 1808, passed both Houses of Parliament, 
received the royal assent, and was left to take its course 
accordingly. 

Perhaps it may be necessary here to remind the reader of 
the difference between the slave trade and slavery. By the 
first w r e are to understand traffic in human beings, when they 
are torn away from their country and their homes ; and by the 
second is meant that state of servitude and bondage to which 
they are thereby reduced. The slave trade, so far as England was 
concerned, was now abolished by law ; and it was made criminal 
for any one to purchase and take away slaves from the coast of 
Africa, or from any other country. But notwithstanding the 
achievement of this great object, slavery itself still continued in 
the British colonies with unabated rigour, and the accounts 
which were received from time to time of the sufferings of the 
Negroes were truly appalling. 

The friends of the oppressed Negro race, encouraged by the 
result of their past labours, now re-organized their forces, and 
commenced a vigorous crusade against slavery itself, as they had 
before done against the slave trade. They openly avowed their 
intention to agitate without ceasing, till slavery should be 
utterly abolished from the British empire. They nobly kept 
their word ; but it was not till after another twenty-six years of 
arduous toil that their object was fully gained. This interval is 
crowded with the most interesting incidents connected with this 
philanthropic movement ; but our limited space will only admit 
of a very brief outline. 



64 PART. I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

As years rolled on, several of the earlier labourers in the 
cause of emancipation were removed by death ; but their places 
were supplied by others who were raised up in the order of 
Divine providence. The venerable Wilberforce himself felt the 
influence of age and debility creeping upon him ; and being less 
able than formerly to plead the cause of the oppressed, both in 
and out of Parliament, he began to look around for some one 
who would be able and willing to take his place as the acknow- 
ledged leader of the movement. His eye fell upon the late Sir 
Fowell Buxton, then in the prime of life ; and he solemnly 
urged him to come to his aid, and to take his place when his 
strength should fail. After mature deliberation the weighty 
charge was accepted ; and henceforth the name of Buxton 
became prominently identified with the struggle for the entire 
abolition of slavery. 

The Anti-Slavery Society was now formed ; and the most 
strenuous efforts were made to procure and circulate authentic 
information on the treatment of the Xegroes, and other matters 
connected with the question at issue, as well as in holding 
public meetings in various parts of the country, to bring the 
subject fully before the people of the United Kingdom. The 
effect produced by these measures upon the planting interest at 
home and abroad, maybe readily imagined. A strong feeling of 
hostility and opposition was excited against all who professed to 
be the friends of freedom, and especially against the Missionaries 
in the West Indies, who were very improperly considered as 
identified with the Abolition movement in England. These 
unoffending servants of the Lord Jesus were cruelly persecuted. 
In many instances, they were maltreated and imprisoned ; and 
their dwellings and places of worship were laid in ruins by 
ruthless mobs, who knew not what they did. These apparently 
untoward circumstances were overruled for good. They tended 
to arouse the nation to a feeling of righteous indignation 
against a system which was capable of such atrocities ; for it 
was well understood that slavery was at the root of all these 
things. 

At length the nation arose en masse, and demanded of the 
Government that the slaves should be emancipated. In the 



CHAP. III. — SLAVERY AND THE SLATE TRADE. (35 

year 1831. upwards of five thousand petitions were presented to 
Parliament ; and two years subsequently, after the most ani- 
mated debates upon the subject, a Bill was passed, by an 
overwhelming majority, securing the freedom of all the slaves 
in the British empire, on the 1st of August, 1834 ; and award- 
ing twenty millions of pounds sterling to be divided among their 
proprietors, as compensation for the loss which they were sup- 
posed to sustain by the arrangement. It was stipulated, 
however, that only the children of six years of age, and under, 
were to be fully free at once. Domestic slaves were to serve 
an " apprenticeship " for four years, and field Negroes for sis 
years, professedly to prepare them for entire freedom. This 
was a great mistake, as the apprenticeship turned out to be 
nothing better than a modified form of slavery, and was 
attended with many peculiarly aggravating circumstances. But 
time passed away ; and at the end of four years the slaves were 
found to be so well prepared for the boon of freedom, and the 
apprenticeship was working so badly for all parties, that the 
respective local legislatures resolved to remit the remaining two 
years of servitude to the field labourers, and all were fully 
emancipated on the 1st of August, 1838. Thus were 800,000 
poor slaves delivered from the galling yoke of bondage in the 
British colonies, by the united efforts of Christian philan-' 
thropists and Christian Missionaries, by whose unwearied 
labours they were raised to the position of men and brethren. 
The day of freedom was everywhere observed with solemn 
religious services, and thanksgiving to God; and the writer 
will never forget with what earnestness the assembled 
thousands sang the praises of Jehovah in His sanctuary, and 
with what attention they listened to the exhortations and coun- 
sels which were given them, in reference to their future conduct, 
on the memorable occasion. 

After this brief sketch of the early history of the slave trade, 
its abolition by the British Government, and the abolition of 
slavery itself throughout the British empire, the question may 
be very properly asked, "Has the African slave trade, then, 
ceased to exist ? " "Would to God we could answer in the 
affirmative ! But, alas ! this is not the case. "We grieve to say 

M 



66 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

that although England has washed her hands from the foul 
stain of being connected with the accursed traffic in human 
beings, it is still carried on by people of other nations to as 
great an extent, if not greater, than ever. 

The efforts made by the British Government to put a final 
termination to the African slave trade, are deserving of all 
praise. By mutual treaties, and diplomatic influence, other 
nations were not only induced to join in the general protest 
against the nefarious traffic, but they also agreed to punish as 
pirates all who might henceforth be found engaging in it. 
England has, moreover, spent hundreds of thousands of pounds 
in well-meant endeavours to prevent this crying evil, in addi- 
tion to the twenty millions of compensation money paid to the 
planters, when slavery itself was finally abolished in the British 
-colonies. A large number of armed vessels have been kept for 
many years cruising off the coast of Africa, and in other seas, 
with a view to intercept slavers, to liberate the poor slaves, and 
to bring to justice the incorrigible offenders. But, notwith- 
standing the severity of the penalty, and the vigilance of British 
cruisers, such are the inducements offered, in the shape of large 
profits, that scores of vessels are still employed in carrying on a 
smuggling traffic in slaves. These smugglers employ fast- 
sailing vessels of small tonnage ; and, watching their oppor- 
tunity, steal off with a cargo of slaves when they think there is 
no man-of-war near at the time. Occasionally, these daring 
adventurers are overtaken and captured; but for this the slave 
dealers do not care much, because they calculate that if they 
can get clear away with two cargoes out of every three which 
they take on board, the traffic will pay very well. 

With regard to the extent to which the slave trade still 
prevails, we would merely observe that competent persons, with 
ample means of information within their reach, have estimated 
the number of Africans annually torn away from their homes 
into abject slavery, at the astonishing number of 500,000. Of 
these it is calculated that 300,000 perish on their march 
down to the coast, on the fearful middle passage, and during 
their seasoning in the land of bondage to which they are taken. 
It is, moreover, a melancholy fact that since rigorous means 



CHAP. III. — SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 67 

have been adopted to prevent the slave trade, its horrors have 
been increased tenfold. The space allowed for the Negroes 
on board the slave vessels is so limited, and the nnmber put on 
board is so large, that they are literally packed in the hold like 
bales of goods ; which circumstance, together with ill treatment 
and deficiency of food, is the cause of the fearful mortality 
which generally takes place. 

In bringing to a close his observations on this painful 
•subject, so intimately connected with the weal or woe of 
Western Africa, the writer wishes he could enlist the kindly- 
feelings of his readers on behalf of the long oppressed Negro 
race. If they could only have seen for themselves what he has 
witnessed of the abominations of slavery in both hemispheres of 
the globe, surely they would not be wanting in sympathy, 
prayer, and effort, on behalf of the still oppressed and down- 
trodden sable sons of Ham. 

Prom a long list of instances which have come under our 
own observation, showing the cruelties of slavery on the one 
hand, and the capabilities of the Negro children to receive 
instruction on the other, we select the case of little Benome, 
one of our own domestic servants for several years in the West 
Indies. When this little Negro girl was first placed under our 
care, she had been but recently rescued from the hold of a slave 
ship ; and was, consequently, very ignorant, and somewhat 
timid in her disposition. She had not been long with us, 
however, before she became more open and confiding. She 
would sometimes sit down on the floor by the side of her 
mistress, who was teaching her the use of her needle ; and 
when questioned about her country, and the history of her 
capture, with tears starting in her eyes, she would tell her 
affecting story, which was, in substance, as follows : — 

Little Benome was born in the interior of Africa, at a place 
called Eadda ; and when she was about seven years of age, a 
report was brought that a neighbouring village had just been 
attacked by a slave-hunting party, and the inhabitants carried 
off into bondage. The people of Eadda, knowing what to 
expect, fled into the woods ; and, during the night, they saw 
•their own village in flames. Early the next morning the 

p 2 



68 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

fugitives were overtaken in their retreat, when little Benome r 
with her mother, a brother, and an elder sister, and several 
others, were captured, tied together two and two, and marched 
towards the coast, like a flock of sheep for the market ; whilst 
nothing was heard but weeping, mourning, lamentation, and 
woe. On coming to a large river which crossed their path, the 
sister of Benome was the last to ford the stream, being occupied 
by a child which she carried in her arms. Annoyed at the 
delay, the cruel monster in charge of the slaves snatched the 
infant from the arms of its mother, and threw it into the jungle, 
where it was left to perish, and urged the poor captives 
onwards in their march ! Having travelled for several weeks, 
they at length came in sight of " the great salt water," which 
they beheld with trembling awe, knowing that they were to be 
carried across the foaming billows. After remaining for a 
length of time at Abbeokuta, Badagry, and other places, a slave 
ship arrived at the coast ; and the poor slaves were taken on 
board, and left their native land for ever. 

Long before the period of embarkation arrived, little Benome 
had been separated from her mother, her sister, and her 
"brother, whom she was never again permitted to behold in this 
world ; and the account which she gave of the last glance 
which she obtained of her dear mother, as she was driven past 
the slave barracoon, of the number of slaves that were* 
drowned as they were being taken on board, and of the horrors 
of the middle passage, was truly heartrending. When the 
slaver had been at sea about three weeks, they heard one night 
a tremendous noise on deck, the trampling of feet, and the 
firing of guns ; and, when the hatches were removed next morn- 
ing, the slaves looked up and saw several strangers, " gentle- 
men with fine coats and caps, shining with gold." These were 
the officers of a British man-of-war, which had captured the 
slaver after a severe contest, and who now called upon the poor 
Negroes to come up on deck, assuring them that they were now 
free ! On ascending from the hold of the vessel, they beheld 
the deck covered with blood ; and the captain and sailors 
belonging to the slaver sitting side by side, bound in irons. 
There had been a dreadful struggle, but victory was on the side 



CHAP. III.— SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE TKADE. 69 

of mercy. The cargo of xlfricans thus captured by British 
valour were brought to the island of Trinidad for emancipation. 
The adults were employed as free labourers ; and the little 
people were placed under the care of such persons as were 
willing to engage with the Government by indenture, to train 
them up in habits of industry, and in religious knowledge ; and 
under this arrangement little Benome came into the family of 
the writer in the manner already mentioned. 

This little Negro girl lived with us for nine years, and grew 
up to be a fine, intelligent young woman. Having been duly 
instructed in the knowledge of God, and of His Son Jesus 
Christ, and having given evidence of a work of grace upon her 
heart, she was solemnly baptized into the Christian faith, and 
voluntarily united herself in church fellowship with the people 
of God. She soon learned to read the Scriptures with con- 
siderable fluency, and became a valuable, industrious, and 
attached domestic servant. Her temper was naturally violent ; 
but she struggled against it in the strength of the Lord, and 
the grace of God was triumphant. On our first removal from 
Trinidad, feeling reluctant to take Benome away from the few 
friends she had, whom she called her " ship sisters," from their 
having been brought from Africa in the same slaver, and her 
"class sisters," united with her in church fellowship, we 
obtained for her a comfortable situation, and left her behind ; 
but, a few weeks afterwards, she actually engaged a passage in 
a vessel bound for Grenada, where we then resided, and, to our 
surprise, presented herself one morning at the door of the 
Mission house, declaring that she could not live without us. 
After this she continued with us till our departure for England, 
when she manifested the most genuine and heartfelt grief at 
our separation from her. 

Thirteen years afterwards, we received a letter from this 
liberated African girl, a brief extract from which may serve to 
-show the strength of her affection, and the injustice of the 
disparaging assertions which have often been made with 
reference to the Negro race : — " I have been so overjoyed from 
hearing of you, that I actually cannot keep my eyes from tears. 
You are constantly in my thoughts, and I am often speaking of 



70 PART I. WESTERN AFRICA. 

your kindness to me. Putting aside my complexion, you 
treated me as your child, and brought me up in the fear and 
love of God; and in the same path I have endeavoured to 
walk, since your departure. I am now married to a respect- 
able and pious young man, one of my own country people, and 
the precentor at the chapel. We have three children, Jane, 
William, and Samuel. The first and second are named after 
my dear master and mistress. We live in our own house, and 
have a small portion of land ; for which we feel indebted to 
your kindness, as we purchased them with the money I received 
from you. O how I wish you were near to me ! Still remem- 
ber me at your family altar. If you should receive this letter, 
I trust I may be spared to hear from you again. My endea- 
vour is to live to the glory of God ; and I trust, if we never 
meet here on earth again, we may meet in heaven, to part no 
more for ever. This is the prayer, dear master and mistress, of 
your true and loving servant. 55 Such is a specimen of the 
gratitude, affection, and piety, which we have found to charac- 
terize hundreds of poor Africans, who have been rescued from 
the horrors of slavery by British liberality ; and who have 
also been brought into " the glorious liberty of the children of 
God, 55 through the instrumentality of Christian Missions. 



CHAPTER IV. 

EUROPEAN AXD Al r EEICAX SETTLEMENTS. 

Eakly Discoveries — Portuguese — Dutch — French — English — Travellers — 
Mungo Park — Settlements — St. Paul de Loando — Fernando Po — 
Baptist Missions — Christianburg — Basle Missionary Society — Eltrina- 
— Senegal — Goree — Liberia — Methodist Episcopal Church. 

Prom a very early period, Northern Africa has figured on the 
page of history ; the Mediterranean, by which it is bounded,, 
being the Great Sea of the ancients, by means of which a con- 



CHAP. IV. — EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN SETTLEMENTS. 71 

stant intercourse was kept up between the flourishing states of 
Greece, Koine, Egypt, and Carthage. Herodotus, the earliest 
and the best of the Greek historians, gives an interesting account 
of the principal cities and states of Northern Africa, which 
appear in his time to have advanced to a pleasing point of civi- 
lization. But this was not the case with "Western Africa. 
Between the two countries lies the Great Sahara, a vast sandy 
desert, which can only be passed by several weeks of toilsome 
travelling, with caravans of patient camels, scarcely a blade of 
grass or a drop of water being found for days together. This 
circumstance may serve to explain the reason why Western 
Africa derived so little benefit from that portion of the conti- 
nent so highly favoured and celebrated in times of old. 

The earliest European discoveries on the Western coast of 
Africa were made by the Portuguese navigators, Fernandez and 
Lancelot ; the first of whom ascended the river Senegal in the 
year 1447, and explored the surrounding country to a consider- 
able extent. Erom this place, a JallofT Prince, named Bemoy, 
was taken to Lisbon, where he was received with much enthu- 
siasm, both by the King and the people. He was partially 
instructed in the Christian religion, and baptized with solemn 
ceremony ; but, on the voyage back to his own country, some 
altercation took place between Bemoy and the commander of 
the ship in which he sailed, when the latter stabbed the Xegro 
Prince on board his vessel. It is doubtful whether the Portu- 
guese formed any permanent settlement on the Senegal at this 
early period ; but, in the year 11-71, we find they had pushed 
their discoveries as far as the Gold Coast, where they built 
Elmina, and made it their capital in those parts. They also 
took formal possession of several other places ; the principal of 
which was Congo, where they formed a settlement, and intro- 
duced Ptoman Catholic Missionaries, with a view to convert the 
natives to their form of Christianity. But, although it is stated 
that one old Eriar baptized 700,000 Africans, and another 
300,000, the new religion seems to have made but little im- 
pression upon the people generally. We do not know at what 
period the Portuguese Missionaries were expelled, or abandoned 
their work at the Conor) : but we can trace their connexion with 



72 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

the country for upwards of two hundred years. During this 
long period, a profession of Christianity existed ; but it was in a 
form little better than heathenism itself; and for many years 
past not a vestige of the " holy Catholic faith " has been found 
on the banks of the Zaire, or in any part of the Coast of 
Guinea. 

In the course of time, the Portuguese were superseded, in a 
great measure, by the Dutch ; who, having become a powerful 
maritime people, took possession of Eimina, and other import- 
ant places on the Western Coast of Africa. But the Dutch did 
not long continue masters of the sea, or the sole possessors of 
settlements in this part of the world. They soon found powerful 
rivals in the English and the French, who now began to be 
more than ever alive to the profitable nature of the African 
trade in slaves, gold, and ivory. The most flattering and 
extravagant accounts reached Europe of the extent of the gold 
trade carried on in the interior, and a spirit of mercantile enter- 
prise was awakened, such as had never been known before. 
There was a general desire to penetrate at once to the source of 
the amazing wealth which was said to exist ; and, if possible, to 
get access to the gold mines, which were supposed to be in 
the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, and the mysterious Niger. 

In the year 1618, a Company was formed in England, for the 
purpose of exploring the Eiver Gambia, with a view to the 
objects we have just named. They sent out the same year 
Richard Thompson, a person of considerable spirit and enter- 
prise. He was put in charge of a vessel called the " Catherine," 
of a hundred and twenty tons' burden, with a cargo of mer- 
chandise, of the value of £2,000, that he might trade with the 
natives in the course of his expedition. In the month of 
December he entered the river, and proceeded, with little diffi- 
culty, as far as Kassan, a considerable native town, about two 
hundred and fifty miles from the sea. Here he left a party in 
charge of his ship, and pushed on, with a few men, in open 
boats, to explore the Upper Gambia. The Portuguese, who 
were still numerous in this part of Africa, being filled with rage 
and jealousy at the arrival of the British strangers, fell upon 
Thompson's men, in his absence, and massacred a considerable 



CHAP. IV. — EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN SETTLEMENTS. 73 

number of them. Although unable, with his remaining force, 
to avenge this outrage, our adventurer maintained his courage, 
and sent home a flattering account of his prospects. The Com- 
pany was induced, by his representations, to dispatch another 
vessel to join him ; but unfortunately she arrived at the most 
unhealthy season of the year, and lost most of her men by fever, 
soon after she entered the river. Still the Company was not 
discouraged by this disaster ; but immediately fitted out a third 
and larger expedition, consisting of two vessels, the " Sion," of 
two hundred tons, and the CJ St. John," of fifty. The command 
of the whole was given to Richard Jobson. who engaged in th e 
enterprise with becoming zeal and earnestness. We are indebted 
to this gentleman for the earliest and the best accounts of the 
river districts of Western Africa. 

Jobson and his party entered the Gambia in November, 1620 ; 
but, to their surprise and dismay, they soon heard that Thomp- 
son had perished by the hands of his own men. As if the dan- 
gers arising from the character of the climate, the hostility of 
the natives, and the enmity of the Portuguese was not sufficient, 
these hardened wretches mutinied against their commander, and 
put him to death, for what cause does not appear ; and thus fell 
the first of many victims in the cause of African discovery. 
The enterprising Jobson, having recovered in some measure from 
the shock occasioned by the melancholy fate of his predecessor, 
proceeded to Kassan. Most of the Portuguese had fled before 
his arrival ; and the few who remained professed entire ignorance 
and great horror at the massacre of Thompson, already noticed. 
The commander, however, gave little credit to their professions; 
for he had reason to believe that they were already secretly 
endeavouring to stir up the natives against him. With some 
difficulty, Jobson procured a pilot, and pursued his course up 
the river as far as the Falls of Baraconda ; but above this 
point he found the navigation, even with boats, almost imprac- 
ticable, at this season of the year. In addition to the impedi- 
ment occasioned by the strong downward current of the stream, 
the channel was found to be frequently interrupted by hidden 
rocks and sand-banks. It was sometimes necessary to drag the 
boats along the banks of the river, for a mile or two, to avoid 



74 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

the shoals and the rapids, and then to launch them again in 
deep water. Notwithstanding every difficulty, the expedition 
pushed on to Tenda, where it arrived in January, 1621. Here 
they met with Buckar Sano, the chief native merchant on the 
Gambia, who introduced them to the King. His sable Majesty 
was highly pleased with the presents which were spread before 
him, and allowed the strangers to remain in his country, to 
trade with his people, as long as they pleased. They might 
have carried on their traffic on a large and profitable scale, had 
they not neglected to take with them a sufficient supply of salt, 
an article always in great demand in the interior of Africa.* 

As the dry season advanced, the stream became more and 
more shallow, so that our voyager found it impossible to proceed 
any further up the river. He returned with the full intention 
of renewing his attempt to explore the country when the season 
should be more favourable. His purpose was never accom- 
plished, however ; for both he and the Company with which he 
was connected became involved in quarrels with the Gambia 
merchants, which resulted* in the breaking up of the expedition, 
and the cause of African discovery again languished. 

The next attempt to explore the interior of Africa by way of the 
Gambia was made in the year 1723, when the African Company 
was organized under the directorship of the Duke of Chandos 
and other gentlemen of rank and influence. Captain Sibbs was 
the person intrusted with the command of this expedition ; and 
being furnished with the usual means of navigating the river, on 
the 7th of October in the same year, he arrived at James' 
Island, situated about thirty miles from the sea, on which had 
been previously formed a small English settlement. On finding 
that Mr. Willy, the Governor, was from home, on a voyage up 

* The natives of Africa will eat salt with as great a relish as children in 
England will eat sugar ; and it is usual for Negroes of some respectability 
to cany pieces of rock-salt in leathern pouches suspended from the neck, to 
he constantly at hand when required. "When two persons meet, who are 
thus provided with the precious article, they will offer each other their piece 
of salt to suck, whilst they hold a conversation ; just in the same way that 
persons in civilized countries will produce the box, and offer each other a 
pinch of snuff or a piece of tobacco. Such is the etiquette of Western 
Africa. 



CHAP. IV. — ETTROFEAS" A^'D AMEBIC AS SETTLEMENTS. ID 

the river, Sibbs wrote to him; but, before any arrangements 
could be made, intelligence was received of the Governor's death, 
and his body was brought down for interment in the fort. With 
a crew of eighteen white men and thirty Negroes, the Captain 
began to ascend the river. The natives were everywhere friendly ; 
but he experienced the same difficulties in navigating the 
stream as his predecessors. On the 22nd of February he found 
himself sixty miles above the Tails of Baraconda ; and, the season 
being unfavourable, he was unable to proceed to Tenda, the 
point which Jobson had reached before him. Disappointed 
with the general appearance of the country, and fully convinced 
that the Company was proceeding in error in their attempts to 
find the far-famed land of gold, Captain Sibbs abandoned the 
undertaking ; and no other attempt was made to explore this part 
of the African continent for several years. 

Whilst the English were thus engaged in exploring the 
Gambia, the French had been directing their attention to the Se- 
negal, a similar river, to the north ; which was, according to their 
geographers, one of the mouths of the Niger, and the stream 
which was to lead them to Timbuctoo and the regions of gold. 
* The respective expeditions of the French resulted in the same dis- 
appointment which had attended the efforts of the English, and 
were, consequently, productive of no permanent good. 

After slumbering again for nearly a century, the cause of 
African discovery was once more revived by the organization of 
the " African Association." Lord Eawden, Sir Joseph Banks, 
the Bishop of Landaff, Mr. Beaufoy, and Mr. Stewart, were 
nominated managers of this institution ; the object of which was 
to explore the interior of Africa, not by means of large maritime 
expeditions, but by equipping and sending forth individual 
travellers. "With this viewthey raised subscriptions, and looked 
out for proper persons to employ in their service ; and it is 
a remarkable fact that, notwithstanding the hazardous nature of 
the undertaking, a larger number of candidates presented them- 
selves than was required, although the Association only offered 
to pay their travelling expenses. 

A number of courageous and intrepid travellers now went 
forth in rapid succession, to explore the interior of Africa in 



76 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

various directions. We may mention the names of Ledyard. Lucas, 
Houghton, Clapperton, Park, the brothers Lander, Horneman, 
Nicholls, Peddie, Campbell, Gray, Laing, Warrington, Laird, 
Oldfield, Piitchie, and Lyon. Several of these daring adventurers 
fell a sacrifice to the climate before they had been long in Africa ; 
whilst others were spared to return to their native land, and to 
favour the public with interesting accounts of their travels. 

Perhaps the most favoured and successful of these early 
African travellers was the celebrated Mungo Park ; and having 
been personally acquainted with several places which he visited 
on the banks of the Gambia, the writer has pleasure in bearing 
his testimony to the general accuracy and truthfulness of the 
descriptions given by him, in his interesting volumes, of the 
country through which he passed, and of the manners and habits 
of the respective native tribes with which he came in contact. 
This circumstance must be oar apology for a brief notice of this 
distinguished and lamented individual. 

On hearing of the death of Major Houghton, the African 
Association accepted of the services of Mr. Mungo Park, a 
native of Scotland, educated for the medical profession, and just 
returned from a voyage to India. He sailed from Portsmouth • 
on the 22nd of May, 1795, for the Gambia ; up which river he 
proceeded to Pisania.* From this point he pushed forward 

* It was on this journey that Park met with the following affecting 
incident, so truly characteristic of Negro hospitality. Having reached an 
African village late in the evening of a stormy day, weary and hungry, he 
sat down under a tree. An old woman, returning from the labours of the 
"field, cast an eye of compassion on the lonely stranger, and desired him to 
follow her. She led him to her hut, procured a fine fish, and cooked it for 
liis supper, and spread a mat on the floor, on which he might recline his 
weary head for the night. Her maidens were busily engaged spinning 
cotton ; and, as usual, they accompanied their labour with a song, which must 
have been composed impromptu for the occasion, as the traveller observed 
that it had reference to himself. It said, in strains of affecting simplicity, — 

w The winds blew, and the rain fell : 

The poor white man, faint and weary, 
Came and sat under our tree. 

He has no mother to bring him milk, 
Nor wife to grind his corn. 



CHAP. IY. — EUEOPEAN ASD AMEBICAN SETTLEMENTS. 77 

into the interior; and, after passing through unparalleled diffi- 
culties and sufferings, during the two years and a half occupied 
by his travels, he returned to England in December, 1797 ; and 
surprised and delighted the people with a thrilling narrative of 
his journey, and his discovery of the source and character of the 
mighty Niger. About seven years afterwards, Mr. Park again 
engaged in African exploration. This time he went out at the 
head of a large expedition, supported by Government, which 
left Portsmouth on the 30th of January, 1805. The traveller 
pursued the same route as before, touching at Goree on his way 
to the Gambia. Before the expedition had penetrated far into 
the interior, it was overtaken by the rainy season ; and most of 
the men, as well as the animals, perished in the wilderness. 
Park pushed on, however, through every difficulty ; and, at 
length, accompanied by Mr. Anderson, his brother-in-law, and 
two or three others who still survived, he reached the banks of 
the Niger. With amazing labour they built a small vessel, and 
launched it on the mighty river, hoping to reach the Atlantic, 
and thus prove the truth of the theory which Park had espoused. 
All went well till they came to a place called Boussa, where 
•they were attacked by a party of natives, and the remnant of 
the expedition perished ; with the exception of a Negro, who 
by some means escaped, and who, a long time afterwards, 
succeeded in reaching; the coast with the sad tidings of the 
disaster. 

Having thus briefly traced the progress of the earliest 
attempts which were made to explore the interior of "Western 
Africa, we would now direct the attention of the reader to the 
permanent settlements which have been formed by European 
and other nations on various parts of the coast. We are the 
more anxious to do this, because most of these establishments 
have been connected with philanthropic and praiseworthy efforts 
to civilize and evangelize the long oppressed and neglected 
inhabitants of the African continent. 

Many changes have taken place since the Western Coast of 

Chorus. Let us pity the poor white man : 

No mother has he to bring him milk, 
Nor wife to grind his corn." 



78 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

Afiica was first visited by the vessels of different European 
nations. Some of those powers, which were once so potent, 
have, by degrees, dwindled down to a mere nominal existence ; 
whilst others have risen to a position of proud pre-eminence. 
The only colonial possessions with which we are acquainted, are 
those of the Portuguese, the Spaniards, the Danes, the Dutch, 
the French, the Americans, and the English. 

The Portuguese settlements are chiefly confined to Benguela, 
Angola, and Congo; the capital of their possessions in these 
parts being St. Paul de Loando. But these places being situ- 
ated on that part of the continent which may properly be deno- 
minated the South- Western Coast of Africa, they scarcely belong 
to the portion of country now under consideration. Nothing is 
being done, so far as we know, in connexion with these colonies, 
for the civilization of the native tribes in their vicinity ; the 
attention of the colonists being confined almost exclusively to 
mercantile pursuits. Many private establishments, belonging 
to individual Portuguese merchants, may be found on other 
parts of the coast ; but these are generally formed on lands 
belonging to the native Chiefs, and exist for the avowed pur- 
pose of carrying on, by stealth, the infamous slave trade. This 
feeing the case, they cannot be acknowledged and protected by 
the Portuguese Government, with whom the English have 
formed a compact, disallowing the traffic in human beings. 

The Spanish possessions in Western Africa are limited to 
Fernando Po, a small island in the Gulf of Guinea, about ten 
miles from the mainland, inlat. 3° 6' north, and long. 7° 30' east. 
'The island is about thirty miles long, and twenty broad ; and, 
rising to a considerable elevation in the centre, it is highly 
esteemed for the comparative salubrity of its climate. It has a 
native population of its own, of a wild and barbarous character, 
called Boobees, besides a number of Negroes belonging to 
different tribes on the continent, who have been drawn thither 
by the profitable employment afforded by the ships which fre- 
quently put in to the harbour. The principal town was formerly 
called Clarence, but now is styled Santa Isabel, and is situated on 
the east side of the island. During a long course of years, 
Fernando Po was held by the English, under a special agree- 



CHAP. IV. — EUROPE A2ST A1SD AMEBIC AN SETTLEMENTS. 79 

merit with the Government of Spain ; but, a few years ago, this 
arrangement terminated, when the Spaniards resumed possession 
of it, and proceeded to form a permanent settlement.* 

Whilst Fernando Po was in the possession of the English, 
the Baptist Missionary Society commenced a Mission in the 
island, for the benefit of the native population of all classes. 
Having surmounted most of the difficulties incident to the for- 
mation of a new station among a heathen people, the Mission- 
aries were soon favoured with a pleasing measure of success. 
A small Christian church was organized, of the few natives who 
had been hopefully converted to God, and every thing wore a 
promising aspect, when the establishment was entirely broken 
up by the stringent and persecuting measures adopted by the 
Spanish Government, on resuming possession of the place. 
The Governor required the whole of the population, without 
exception, to conform to the Eoman Catholic religion : and 
every thing like toleration was totally ignored. The Mission- 

* The following item of intelligence, recently received from Fernando 
Po, may serve to illustrate the state of society in that place, and the feelings 
which exist between the natives and the colonists : — " On Sunday, the 1st 
of September, 1861, Mr. Thomas B. Lee, formerly Secretary to the British 
Consul at Fernando Po, and lately in the employ of Mr. Lynslager, the 
principal merchant of that island, went out for a walk in the direction of the 
interior, starting from Santa Isabel, the capital. He seems to have lost his 
way, and to have fallen in with some of the aborigines of the place. These 
entertain hostile feelings towards the Spaniards, to whom the island belongs ; 
and probably mistaking Mr. Lee for one of the Spanish officials, they led 
him to a bye-path, and there seized him ; and made him take off his clothes. 
Mr. Lee implored them to spare his life, promising them a handsome reward 
if they would conduct him safely to the town. But the ruffians had resolved 
to sacrifice to one of their gods, named Oumorh, some Spaniard, as they 
believed that their deities refused to send rain on account of the presence of 
these Europeans. They bound Mr. Lee, and murdered him in the most 
horrible manner. His remains, frightfully disfigured, were discovered a few 
days afterwards, iu a lonely spot by the sea-side, between three stones, his 
clothes being found near the same place. On the 30th of September, the 
Chiefs of the principal Boobee towns were sent for to Santa Isabel, and 
brought the supposed murderer with them ; who, on being questioned, on 
his oath, as to whether he was guilty or not, and replying in the negative, 
was allowed to go free by the Spanish authorities. 55 — " West African Herald," 
October 25th, 1861. 



80 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

aries were therefore obliged to remove to the continent, with 
such of their people as were able to accompany them ; where, 
after a considerable period of trial and suffering, from the 
unhealthiness of the climate and other difficulties, they were 
again blessed with fruit to their labours. The loss to the 
Society, both temporal and spiritual, occasioned by these un- 
toward circumstances, was very serious ; and it was not till 
several years afterwards, when the British Government had 
interfered, that some compensation was awarded by the Spaniards 
for the buildings and other property, which were necessarily 
sacrificed, on the breaking up of the Mission. 

The Danes established themselves at an early period in 
Western Africa ; and they still possess several small settlements 
on the coast of Guinea. The principal of these is Christian- 
burg, or Danish Akra ; situated in lat. 37° 5' north, and long. 
15° 5' east, close to the sea shore. Besides the castle or for- 
tress in which the Governor and principal officials reside, the 
town does not contain many houses of consequence. There are 
a number of Xegro huts, however, and a considerable mixed 
population. 

In the year 1S2S, encouraged by the Danish Government, 
the Basle Missionary Society sent out five Missionaries to 
Cbristianburg ; but they soon experienced the debilitating 
and fatal influence of the climate. Mr. TVulf died shortly aftei 
his arrival ; Mr. Hegele, suffering from a dangerous illness, 
returned to Germany, and Mr. Sessing accompanied him ; 
whilst Mr. Handfc, having had repeated attacks of fever, was a 
wreck both in body and mind. Mr. Kipling alone remained 
effective, and he accepted the office of Colonial Chaplain; so that 
the Mission to the natives was for a time virtually relinquished. 
In 1S32, Mr. Sessing returned to Christianburg, accompanied 
by three new Mission aries, the whole of whom were called away 
by death, soon after they landed on the shores of Africa. Mr. 
Kipling and Mr. Sessing had soon afterwards to leave for 
Europe, with their health completely shattered ; and the colony 
was once more left without a Christian teacher. 

When the Basle Missionary Society re-commenced its Labours 
on the coast of Africa, a new station was formed, at a place 



CHAP. IV. — EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN SETTLEMENTS. SI 

called Akropong, a few miles to the north-east of Akra ; but no 
improvement in the climate seems to have been experienced. 
In IS 3 5, we find Mr. Ens left a solitary labourer at this place ; 
the two Missionaries who had gone out with him — one of whom 
was a medical man — having both died shortly after their arrival 
in the country. Several other Missionaries followed in rapid 
succession, none of whom survived long enough to allow of 
their engaging in active labour. In 1843, a small colony of 
twenty-four Christian Negroes were brought from Jamaica by 
Mr. Pais, and his colleague, Mr. Wildman, with a view to aid 
in the work of evangelization, and to give the natives a speci- 
men of living Christianity, in the family, the workshop, and the 
field. These colonists soon gave the Missionaries more anxiety 
than the natives, being evidently dissatisfied with their lot, and 
desirous of returning to the West Indies. Notwithstanding the 
fearful mortality among their agents, and other difficulties, the 
Society still persevered in their labours ; and it would appear 
that a measure of success has crowned their endeavours, as they 
have now three principal stations on the Gold Coast, namely, 
Christianburg, Akropong, and Ussu. 

The Dutch possessions in Western Africa, once so numerous 
and influential, are now limited to Elmina, or Dutch Akra, in 
latitude 5° 10' north, and longitude 2° 30' west. This place was 
built by the Portuguese in 14 81, and taken from them by the Dutch 
in 1637, and afterwards secured to them by treaty. Elmina 
stands on a peninsula, formed by a small river, which runs for 
some distance almost parallel with the sea. The castle is a respect- 
able edifice, and has two approaches ; one from the town, where it 
is strengthened by a double ditch, over which are draw-bridges ; 
the other adjoining the river, where there is a small gate, at an ele- 
vation of twelve feet, to which an ascent is formed by a steep ladder. 
A fort is also built on an adjoining eminence ; so that the place is 
well defended against an enemy. In 17 SI, it repulsed a respect- 
able English force ; but this was attributed to a want of concert 
between the British commanders. The town is large, but dirty 
and unwholesome ; and the liver, though small, is navigable for 
vessels of one hundred tons' burden at high water. The population 
is estimated at 15,000, and consists of merchants, artizans^and 

G 



82 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

fishermen ; many of whom are respectable persons of colour, and 
possessed of considerable wealth. The standard of morality at 
Elmina, as at most of the settlements on the Western Coast of 
Africa, is said to be very low ; and we are not aware of any 
efforts made in connexion with this colony for the evangelization 
of the natives. 

The French have several small settlements in Western Africa, 
the principal of which are situated on the river Senegal. On a 
small island, called St. Louis, in latitude 16° north, and longi- 
tude 16° east, about thirty miles from the sea, stands the capital 
of their possessions. The town consists of a fort, a hospital, a 
Roman Catholic church, and about thirty dwelling houses, built 
of brick, with a large number of Negro huts. The population 
is estimated at 10,000, and the principal trade is in gold, ivory, 
gum, and bees'-wax. Although convenient for traffic with the 
native tribes of the interior, the settlement is rendered difficult 
of access by a shifting bar of sand at the mouth of the river, 
which requires the greatest care and skill on the part of the 
pilot in charge of the vessel bound for St. Louis. For the 
distance of seventy-five miles, the river Senegal is separated 
from the sea, with which it runs nearly parallel, only by a ridge 
of sand, when it takes a sudden turn towards the interior of 
the country. This, like most of the other settlements on the 
•coast, has passed through various vicissitudes. In 1758, it was 
taken by the English ; and, although it was confirmed to them 
by the treaty of peace in. 1763, it was restored to the French, 
by mutual agreement, in 1783 ; from which period it has ever 
since remained in their possession. 

The island of Goree also belongs to the French. This is a 
romantic little island, about eighty miles to the north of the 
mouth of the Gambia, and only about a league from the shore 
of Cape Yerd. Its chief importance is derived from its com- 
manding situation as a place of resort and protection for the 
commerce of the neighbouring coast. On a sandy point of land, 
at the foot of a rocky eminence, stands the town, which contains 
some good buildings, including, as usual, a hospital and a 
Romish church. Towering above the whole may be seen the 
Fort of St. Michael, ready to open its fire upon any enemy which 



•CHAP. IV. — EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN SETTLEMENTS. 83 

may dare to approach. The population is estimated at seven 
thousand, six thousand of the inhabitants being slaves at the 
time of emancipation. A considerable trade is carried on with 
the natives on the mainland, who give hides, gold, ivory, and 
bees' -wax for various articles of European manufacture. In the 
year 1800, Goree was surrendered to the British; but it was 
retaken by the French in January, 1804, who were obliged to 
surrender it again in March following. It was finally restored 
to the French, however, at the general peace of 1814. 

In addition to the settlements already mentioned, the French 
claimed, and held for many years, a small trading establishment 
on the northern bank of the river Gambia, called Albreda, which 
seems to have been reserved by them at the time that St, 
Mary's was given up to the English, and Goree ceded to the 
French. It was always a subject of annoyance to the English 
merchants trading on the Gambia, as a spirit of jealousy and 
-rivalry was constantly maintained. This difficulty was finally 
settled, however, a few years ago, by a mutual arrangement 
between the two Governments. In 1857, Queen Victoria and 
the Emperor of the French concluded a treaty to prevent mis- 
understandings with regard to trade in Western Africa. By 
this treaty the Queen relinquished the right, hitherto enjoyed by 
her subjects, of trading along that part of the coast which 
-extends from the mouth of the river St. John to the bay and 
port of Portendic, inclusively ; and the French Emperor ceded 
to her Britannic Majesty the French factory at Albreda, on the 
river Gambia, together with all possessions and rights pertaining 
to the said factory. 

We now come to notice those settlements which have been 
formed on the Western Coast of Africa, not merely for the 
prosecution of trade and commerce, but avowedly for philan- 
thropic and religious objects, — to promote the civilization and 
the evangelization of the deeply injured and neglected native 
tribes. 

LIBERIA. 

This is the name given to a district on the coast of 
Guinea, in consequence of its having first been colonized by 

g 2 



S4 PART I. — WESTERN AFEICA. 

liberated slaves and free people of colour from America. It 
embraces an extent of about six hundred miles, from Grand 
Cape Mount to the Gulf of Guinea; the capital of the settle- 
meot being situated in latitude 6° north, and longitude 10 c 
west. Under the auspices of the :: American Colonization 
Society.''' the first settlers proceeded to Africa in 15:2:2, when a, 
tract o( land was purchased from the natives, including Cape 
Mesurado and the neighbouring plains. The plan of a town,. 
called [Monrovia, was now formed, and dwelling houses of 
various kinds, according to the means of the colonists, began to 
rise in rapid succession. As fresh emigrants arrived, from year 
to year, additional lands were seemed from the neighbouring- 
native tribes, to the extent already mentioned. The greater 
part of the early settlers were men of decided piety, who sought, 
in the land of their forefathers, a refuge from the indignities to 
which they were exposed in America on account of their com- 
plexion. By their just, humane, and benevolent policy, they 
have gained an astonishing influence over their heathen neigh- 
bours, which, it is to be hoped, may ultimately result in an 
extensive dissemination of the Gospel of Christ. 

When we contemplate the American settlement of Liberia as 
a grand experiment in Christian colonization, we must bear in 
mind the fact that it is not a colony dependent upon, and 
governed by, the parent states ; but a distinct and separate 
commonwealth. The people elect their own Presidents and 
Representatives in Congress, according to a regular constitution, 
framed en republican principles: and display a degree of intelli- 
gence in managing their affairs highly creditable to their ability, 
and calculated to rebut the insinuations which have sometimes 
been put forth by the enemies of freedom, as to the supposed 
mental inferiority of persons of African descent. Many diffi- 
culties had to be encountered on the first commencement of the 
settlement ; but most oi these have now been surmounted, and 
the infant republic bids fair to answer the benevolent designs of 
its founders. In Monrovia a number of good substantial 
buildings have been erected, including the Government house, 
Court house, and churches and schools belonging to different 
denominations of Christians. Other towns have also been 



CHAP. IV. — EUROPEAN" AND AMERICAN SETTLEMENTS. v 5 

erected in different parts of the country, and a large quantity of 
iand has been brought under profitable cultivation. The land 
is said to be remarkably fertile, and well adapted for all kinds 
of tropical produce. The sugar-cane, as well as the coffee 
plant, thrives well here : and there is a fair prospect of a good 
supply of cotton, specimens of which have recently been sent to 
England, and pronounced of fine quality by the Manchester 
Chamber of Commerce. There are, moreover, exported every 
year from this place considerable quantities of palm oil, ivory, 
tortoise-shell, dye woods, gold, hides, and wax; whilst the 
imports consist of the manufactures and products of the four 
quarters of the world. Mechanics of nearly every trade may 
be seen earning on their respective professions : and, altogether, 
the new little Christian empire wears an aspect of industry and 
progress which may well encourage the brightest anticipations 
of the genuine philanthropist. 

It is a pleasing fact that the spiritual interests of the 
colonists and of the neighbouring native tribes have not been 
neglected. The American Board of Missions, the Episcopalians, 
the Baptists, and the Methodist Episcopal Church, have all formed 
Mission stations in different parts of Liberia ; and the results 
of their united labours, in establishing Christian schools and 
evangelizing the people, have, on the whole, been encouraging. 
The Missionary Committee of the Methodist Episcopal Church 
have organized their stations in Liberia into a separate Con- 
ference, and ordained a coloured Minister as Bishop, to preside 
over the work, which is said to be in a pleasing state of 
prosperity. This body now numbers about twenty ordained 
Ministers, two thousand church members, and three thousand 
scholars in the respective Mission schools. 

In common with other similar philanthropic enterprises, the 
settlement of Liberia has had its enemies. It was inaugurated 
in the midst of a fiery controversy, which raged for a length of 
time in the United States of America, in the course of which its 
founders were charged with entertaining sentiments directly at 
variance with the best interests of the Negro race ; and the 
members of the American Colonization Society were denounced 
.^s the friends of slavery. But the prosperity of the infant 



86 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

commonwealth has long since silenced these slanderous- 
insinuations ; and the whole undertaking has been proved to be 
in favour of freedom. 

Erom the Eeports which have been published of the said 
Colonization Society, it appears that the expenditure involved 
in the purchase of land, and the sending of emigrants to 
Liberia, from 1820 to 1850, was about 1,250,000 dollars. 
With this comparatively small sum, six hundred miles of sea- 
coast have been redeemed from slavery and the slave trade ; and 
a flourishing Christian state founded, with a population of about 
150,000, chiefly natives, who seem willing to conform to the 
arrangements of their more enlightened brethren who have come 
from America. The total number of emigrants sent to Liberia, 
by the Tree Colonization Society, and its respective auxiliaries, 
during the period above named, was 6,816. Of the whole 
number sent from America, 2,315 were born free, 165 pur- 
chased their own freedom, and 3,636 were emancipated, with 
the view of their going to Liberia. The expense of sending 
each colonist, and supporting him for six months after his 
arrival, together with a homestead of five acres of land, is from 
sixty to eighty dollars. The Colonization Society gives the 
passage, furnishes provisions and medical aid, with a comfort- 
able house, for the first six months, to each emigrant going to 
Liberia, besides the gift of the homestead. 

It is impossible to say what effect the conclusion of the civii 
war in America, and the general emancipation of the slaves, will 
have upon the future history of Liberia. If a considerable 
number of the recently freed men of the United States should 
wish to go out and join their brethren in Africa, they will now 
have facilities for doing so which they never possessed before ; 
and may be the means of strengthening the settlement, if they 
prove to be emigrants of sober, industrious, steady habits. 
Whatever events may occur in the future, the genuine Christian 
philanthropist must feel interested in the welfare of a settlement 
which is so intimately connected with the cause of freedom, and 
with the general welfare of the Western Coast of Africa. 



CHAP. Y. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 87 



CHAPTER V. 

ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 

England's true Glory — Sierra Leone — Design of the Settlement — Early 
Difficulties — Commencement of Missions — Great Mortality — Progress 
of the Work — Blessed Results — Cape Coast Settlement— The 
Castle — War with Native Tribes — Missionary Labours — Death of 
Missionaries — Difficulties overcome — Native Assistants — Present State 
of the "Work — The Gambia — Description of St. Mary's — Commence- 
ment of the Mission — Discouragements — Native Converts — Death of 
Missionaries. 

Every enlightened and patriotic Briton must rejoice in the 
contemplation of England's true glory. We refer not now to 
England's mighty army, her powerful navy, or her extensive 
commerce, but to England's Christianity. It is a grand 
thought, that the sun never sets on Queen Victoria's vast 
dominions, that the British flag floats in every sea ; but it is a 
grander thought still, that the name of England is everywhere 
associated with liberty, justice, and humanity; and that she 
stands first among the nations in her efforts to extend the 
blessings of Christian civilization to other lands less favoured 
than herself. 

We have seen how the British Government acted in the 
matter of slavery and the slave trade ; and how individual 
philanthropists, as well as associations of Christian men, exerted 
themselves to wipe away the stain which so long marred the 
fair fame of our national character, in common with that 
of other countries. We are now to contemplate the philan- 
thropic labours of England and English associations, on 
behalf of the long enslaved and down-trodden sons and 
daughters of Ham, as they have been developed in the perma- 
nent settlements and Christian Missions which have been 



SS FART T. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

established on the Western Coast of Africa. We are aware that 

these institutions have had their enemies and slanderers : but 
we feel persuaded that if their beneficial influence could have 
been witnessed by all as we have seen it, all would be con- 
strained to acknowledge that they are well calculated to 
disseminate the blessings of spiritual light, and knowledge, and 
liberty, throughout the length and breadth of the vast continent 
which has been, alas ! so Ions; involved in midnight darkness. 



SIERRA LEOXE. 

The first British settlement formed on the Western Coast 
of Africa, the avowed object of which was the suppression 
of the slave trade, and the religious and moral improve- 
ment of the natives, received the name of Sierra Leone from 
a river so called, on the southern bank of which the first 
town was built, in latitude 5° 30' north, and longitude ll c 10' 
west. For hundreds of miles on either hand, the coas: is 
generally low and swampy ; but here the land rises into 
mountains of considerable altitude, and there is a bold penin- 
sula stretching out into the sea, and forming an excellent 
natural harbour for shipping in the mouth of the river, which is 
navigable for vessels of moderate burden to a considerable 
distance up the country. These natural • advantages soon 
attracted the attention of Europeans : and as early as 1403, the 
Portuguese established themselves for a time at this place. 
The notorious Sir J. Hawkins, the first Englishman who 
embarked in the African slave trade, also lauded here : and 
made unsparing use of fire and sword in capturing the poor 
natives, to drag them into hopeless slavery. But the time came 
when this locality was to be the scene of a very different 
enterprise ; and when the long degraded Negro race were to 

know that there were white men who felt for them as men and 

i 

brethren. 

On the 21st of July. 17 S3,. Dr. Smeatham, who had spent 
several years on the coast of Africa, addressed a letter to Dr. 
Knowles, suggesting the idea of a free Xegro settlement at 
Sierra Leone, for the purpose of checking and putting down the 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. S9 

•slave trade, and of diffusing the principles of the Christian 
religion among the natives. The same subject seems to have 
been occupying the mind of the benevolent Mr. Sharp at the 
-very same time,; for on the 1st of August of the same year, he 
sketched the outline of the plan of such a settlement, which, he 
observes in the first paragraph, <f will deserve all encourage- 
ment, if the settlers are absolutely prohibited from holding any 
kind of property in the persons of men as slaves, and selling 
either man, woman, or child." The necessity for such a settle- 
ment was rendered the more urgent, in consequence of a large 
number of Negroes having obtained their freedom by deserting 
from their masters, and joining the British in the American 
war ; and for whom it was necessary to provide a permanent 
home. Some of these had been sent to Nova Scotia, others to 
the Bahama islands, and many more had come to England with 
the British army at the close of the war. Those who crowded 
the streets of the metropolis were in a wretched condition of 
misery and starvation. As many as four hundred applied to 
Mr. Sharp and other benevolent gentlemen at one time ; and it 
was found necessary to organize a pommittee for relieving the 
black poor. 

The number of Negro mendicants in and about London being 
now so large, they were regarded as a public nuisance ; and the 
Government interfered, by providing temporary relief for the 
poor sufferers, and by furnishing transports to take out as 
many as were willing to go to the coast of Africa ; at the same 
time engaging to provide rations for the settlers during the first 
six months after their arrival. Everything being arranged, at 
length the little fleet sailed under convoy of the " Nautilus " 
sloop of war, on the Sth of April, 1787 ; having on board up- 
wards of four hundred Negroes and sixty Europeans, chiefly 
women of very doubtful character. 

On the arrival of the vessels at Sierra Leone, Captain Thomp- 
son, who had been placed at the head of the expedition, pur- 
chased from the paramount native Chief of the country a fine 
tract of land about twenty miles square, well watered, and in 
every respect suitable for the purpose of a settlement. He then 
£xed upon a beautiful eminence on the southern bank of the 



90 PABT I. — WE8TKEH AFRICA. 

river for the site of the new township. About three hundred 
and sixty town lots of one acre each were marked out in st- 
and the lots were drawn for and appropriated on the 12th of 
June. 17 ST. But, notwithstanding these favourable circum- 
stances, the commencement of the settlement was extremely 
inauspicious. The Negroes had become thoroughly demoralized 
during their residence in London ; and, if possible, still m: 
during the passage out, — a large quantity of ardent spirits h: 
been consumed on board the ships. They, moreover, arrived at 
Sierra Leone at the most sickly season of the year, in a spirit of 
general murmuring and discontent, and the mortality from the 
commencement was fearful. When the M Xautilus :J left the 
settlement, about three months after the arrival of the fleet, 
there remained in the colony only two hundred and seventy-six 
persons : so that, by desertions and deaths, the settlers ha 1 
reduced in this short space of time to little more than one 
the original number. In March. 1755, the Eev. Mr. Fraser, 
who had gone out as colonial Chaplain, was obliged to return to 
England, on account of illness; and, at the time of his : 
the number of colonists had been reduced to one hundred and 
thirty. Apprehensive that the infant settlement might become 
entirely extinct. Mr. Sharp hastened to its relief, by sending out 
the brig "Myro," laden with stores, and conveying thirty-nine 
additional settlers, including two medical men and other persons 
of respectable character. This timely relief encouraged the few 
surviving colonists; but now they were doomed to experience 
another sad calamity. A neighbouring African Chief, feeling 
aggrieved by the conduct of some of the settlers, first gave 
notice of his intention, and then came down with Lis warriors, 
and burnt the town to ashes. 

In the year 1791 another Association was formed fox the 
management of the settlement ; by whose efforts a few :t the 
dispersed colonists, to the number of sixty-four, were F.gain 
collected, and encouraged to make another attempt to form a 
permanent establishment. About the same time twelve hundred 
of the free Negroes, before alluded to, were brought over in six- 
teen vessels from Xova Scotia, and also one hundred Europeans 
from England; who arrived just in time t; put :.:vrn a party of 



CHAP. Y. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 91 

rebellious Negroes. With this large reinforcement of settlers, a 
fresh commencement was made, and a new town began rapidly 
to rise on a better site than the former one, which, by the in- 
structions of the Directors, was called Free Town. During the 
following two or three years the infant colony made rapid ad- 
vancement; but in 1794 the town was entirely destroyed by a 
Trench squadron. By this untoward circumstance a large 
amount of private property was sacrificed, and the loss of the 
Company was estimated at £50,000. 

Disappointed and discouraged by the frequent reverses which 
they had experienced, in ISO 8 the Company transferred the 
entire settlement to the British Government. Prom that period 
it has continued to prosper, notwithstanding the difficulties which 
it has had to encounter from the unhealthiness of the climate, 
and the political enemies by whom it has frequently been 
assailed. Most of the slaves liberated by the British cruisers 
stationed along the coast for the suppression of the slave trade, 
having been brought to Sierra Leone, the population has 
rapidly increased, and is now estimated at upwards of fifty 
thousand, including about one hundred Europeans, some of 
whom are engaged in public offices, and others in mercantile 
speculations. Many of the liberated Africans have arisen to a 
position of intelligence and wealth; and carry on business on an 
extensive scale, importing their merchandise direct from whole- 
sale houses in England. 

Eree Town, the capital of the colony, is beautifully situated 
on the south side of the river or estuary, on a gentle slope at 
the foot of a hill, about six miles distant from the point of the 
peninsula, in latitude 8° 30' north, and longitude 13° 30' west. 
It presents a charming aspect, when viewed from the sea ; many 
of the buildings being of a substantial character, and inter- 
spersed with cocoa nut and other umbrageous trees of the 
freshest green. The Government House, barracks, hospital,. 
and the AVesleyan Mission-House and chapel, are prominent 
objects in the landscape, in consequence of the elevated posi- 
tions which they occupy in the rear of the town. There are 
also many other towns and villages in different parts of the 



92 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

colony, some of wliicli are situated among the mountains, and 
others by the sea shore, surrounded by native farms and 
gardens. The principal of these are Wilberforce, Wellington, 
Waterloo, York, Regent, Kissey, Kent, Charlotte, Leicester, 
Gloucester, Bathurst, Allen Town, and Grassfield. In these 
places the liberated Africans are located, and may be seen 
engaged in various industrial pursuits ; some as agriculturists, 
and others as merchants or mechanics. Having been originally 
stolen from various parts of the vast continent, they speak a 
great variety of dialects among themselves ; but they soon 
learn English, and become, with proper instruction, intelligent 
and useful members of society. Altogether, the settlement wears 
& pleasing aspect; and bids fair to fulfil the most sanguine 
expectations of its friends and patrons. The population of 
Free Town is estimated at 15,000, and that of the whole 
colony at 5 0,000. 

The most pleasing feature in the colony of Sierra Leone is, 
however, its rapid advancement in religion and morals. At an 
early period of the settlement, colonial Chaplains were appointed, 
several of whom were pious and devoted men : some of these 
were soon removed by death, whilst others had to return to 
Europe on account of the failure of their health. The agents of 
the Church Missionary Society have also laboured with indefati- 
gable zeal and considerable success, notwithstanding the 
difficulties with which they have had to contend. They 
commenced their operations in this country in the year IS 04 ; 
and although the Missionaries and teachers employed were 
chiefly Germans, and of strong constitution, and inured to 
hardship, in the course of fifteen years thirty of them fell a 
sacrifice to the climate. In 1816, the Mission was favoured 
with a visit from the Rev. Edward Bickersteth, as a deputation 
from the parent Society, whose wise counsels and judicious 
arrangements gave a new impulse to the work. Erom that 
time to the present, the cause of God has continued to advance ; 
and the churches which have been erected, and the schools 
which have been established, in connexion with this Institution, 
•not only in the colony, but beyond its boundary, have been 
made a general blessing to the people. 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 93 

• The Baptist Missionary Society sent ont two Missionaries to 
Sierra Leone in the year 1795 ; but owing to indiscretion on 
the part of one, and the failure of health on the part of the 
other, the Mission was speedily abandoned, hi the following 
year a united attempt was made by the Scottish, the Glasgow, 
and the London Missionary Societies, to form a station ; but, 
owing to sickness and dissension among the agents, this effort 
was attended by no better success. 

We would now direct attention more especially to the labours 
of the TTesleyan Missionary Society in this part of the Lord's 
vineyard. As early as 1769, the venerable Dr. Coke, the father 
of Wesley an Missions, devised a scheme for the civilization of 
the Foolas, in the neighbourhood of Sierra Leone. This under- 
taking, which originated in motives so purely benevolent, proved 
an entire failure, chiefly from the want of adaptation in the 
agents employed. The persons sent forth by the good Doctor 
on this important Mission were a band of mechanics, with a 
surgeon at their head, who were intended to teach the Foolas- 
the arts of civilized life. On arriving in the colony, they 
became discontented, and were soon dispersed. Some died, 
others absconded, and the rest returned home, without having 
reached the scene of their intended labours in the interior of the 
country. 

The next attempt made by the Wesleyans to benefit this 
deeply degraded people was based upon more judicious and 
evangelical principles. In the year IS 11, the Rev. G. Warren 
and three school teachers were sent out to Sierra Leone, for the 
express purpose of preaching the Gospel, and establishing 
schools for the training up of the rising generation in the 
knowledge of the truth. They opened their commission under 
the most promising circumstances, and were favoured by the 
great Head of the Church with almost immediate fruit to their 
labours. On the arrival of this first real missionary party of 
Wesleyan labourers in the colony, on the 12th of November, 
they found about a hundred persons who were in the habit of 
meeting together for religious worship, and who called them- 
selves ;: Methodists." These were chiefly free blacks from 
X ova-Scotia, who had received the Gospel from the Missionaries 



9-i PAST I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

there, and who had thus brought with them a knowledge of the 

good news of salvation to the land of their adoption. They 
liacl already built a chapel, and written to England for a Mis- 
sionary. By these simple-hearted people the Missionary was 
received with the liveliest feelings of gratitude and joy, and his 
public ministrations were made a blessing to their souls. His 
labours were also blessed to other classes of the community. 
The very afflictions through which the liberated Africans had 
passed, in being torn away from their homes into slavery, 
before they were taken from their oppressors by the British 
cruisers, seemed to have humbled their minds, and, in some 
degree, to have prepared them for the reception of the 
Gospel. 

The missionary career of Mr. "Warren, so auspiciously com- 
menced, was but of short duration. He finished his course on 
the :23rd of July, 1S12, about eight months after his arrival in 
the colony; being the first of the large number of Wesleyan 
labourers who have fallen a sacrifice to the climate of Western 
Africa. For more than two years the station had remained 
vacant for want of a suitable Missionary to occupy the post of 
danger, when the Eev. William Davies and his wife were sent 
out, and arrived safely in Sierra Leone on the 13th of February, 
1815. The following rainy season was unusually severe; and 
among those who were carried off by fever was the Captain of the 
s: Wilding," the vessel by which Mr. and Mrs. Davies had sailed 
to Africa ; but the Missionary and his wife passed through their 
" seasoning" favourably, and pursued their useful labours with 
gratitude and joy. Towards the close of the year, however, 
both the Missionary and his wife were prostrated by fever at the 
same time; and on the 15th of December, ten months after her 
arrival in Africa. Mrs. Davies breathed her last. On the morn- 
ing of the day on which she expired, Mr. Davies, being very ill 
himself, "crawled to see her," and was much affected at the 
change which had passed upon her emaciated frame; but, in 
answer to the question, " Is Jesus precious ? " she, with a faint 
voice and a gentle pressure of the hand, said, " Yes, yes ! " 
soon after which her redeemed and sanctified spirit passed away 
to be for ever with the Lord. This was the first female labourer 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 95 

•that fell ; and the striking motto on her tombstone is, <: Not 

LOST, BUT GONE BEFOEE ! " 

The lonely Missionary, on recovering from his illness, was 
-soon found at the post of duty, being encouraged and comforted 
by his beloved brethren of the Church Missionary Society, as 
well as by his Excellency the Governor, Sir Charles Macarthy, 
who never failed to sympathize with the afflicted and bereaved. 
Mr. Davies laboured with much success during the following 
year ; and, on the 26th of December, 1S16, he had the pleasure 
•of receiving the Eev. Samuel and Mrs. Brown, who were sent 
out by the parent Society to his aid, or to relieve him, if neces- 
sary. Mrs. Brown had only lived in Africa seven months and 
two days, when she was cut down in the prime of life, and in 
the midst of her useful labours. She died in the Lord on the 
:2 5th of July, 1817. The two Missionaries, thus bereaved, 
toiled on together in the work of their Divine Master, encou- 
raged by His presence and blessing till the end of the year ; but 
repeated attacks of fever rendered it necessary for Mr. Davies to 
embark for England early in ISIS, and Mr. Brown was left 
entirely alone. 

The next reinforcement consisted of the Eev. Messrs. Baker 
and Giliison, two single young men, who were sent out to 
relieve Mr. Brown, who, in consequence of failure of health and 
the loss of his wife, needed a change. The new Missionaries 
landed in Sierra Leone on the morning of the 14th of February, 
1819. It was the holy Sabbath day, and they proceeded from 
the ship to the chapel, where they opened their commission 
without delay ; one of them preaching in the morning, and the 
other in the evening, to crowded and delighted congregations. 
Soon after the arrival of the new brethren, Mr. Brown embarked 
for England ; but, before his departure, he thus gives expression 
to his feelings in a letter to the Missionary Committee, alluding 
to the prosperity with which it had pleased the Lord to bless 
his labours, one hundred new members having been added to 
the society during the year : " I have sown in tears, but now 
we reap in joy. Thank God ! this is an ample recompense for 
every sigh, every tear, every shaking ague, every burniug fever, 
every bereavement, every restless and sleepless night, I have 



9G PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

had to endure since I came to Africa. This makes me very 
reluctant to leave. I feel willing to spend and be spent for 
the welfare of the Church and the honour of my adorable 
Redeemer." * 

In the mean time, the brethren Baker and Gillison had entered 
upon their work in the true spirit of their Lord and Master ; 
but they were soon to experience the truth of that saying : 
"Then shall two be in the field ; the one shall be taken, and the 
other left." (Matt. xxiv. 40.) Mr. Gillison had not been in 
Africa quite six months when he was carried off by the fever 
peculiar to the country, on the 10th of August, 1S19. Mr. 
Baker was himself ill at the time that his beloved colleague 
died ; but as soon as he was a little better, he preached the 
funeral sermon of his dear departed brother, and endeavoured to 
nerve himself for his important work, in which he was both 
happy and useful. He thus expresses his sentiments, when 
writing to the Committee in the month of Xovember following : 
" I can assure my dear fathers, notwithstanding these try- 
ing dispensations of Providence, I feel happy in my work, and 
am satisfied I am in my providential place. The Lord makes 
me happy by the continual manifestation of His favour, and 
many of these dear people make me happy by their unblam- 
able life and conversation. Glory be to God ! unworthy as I 
am of such an honour, he is pleased to make me useful." 

During the year 1820, a gracious outpouring of the Holy 
Spirit was experienced at Sierra Leone ; and, as the result of 
the revival, upwards of two hundred new members were added 
to the Society, making the total number four hundred and 
seventy. With reference to the genuineness of this work, Mr. 

* On leaving "Western Africa, the Rev. Samuel Brown was appointed to 
the West Indies, where he continued four years. He subsequently laboured 
in seventeen different Circuits in England, till the year 1S51, when failing 
health obliged him to retire as a Supernumerary. In 1857, notwithstanding 
his age and infirmity, he felt it upon his heart to re-visit the scenes of his 
earliest missionary efforts, and he went out to Sierra Leone forthwith, of 
his own accord. There he spent three years, assisting the Missionaries in 
their work, as his strength would permit ; and then returned to Liverpool, 
where he died in peace on the 5th of October, 1861, — a noble instance of 
trip devotedness to the great missionary enterprise. 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 97 

Baker says : " I do not hesitate to say, of nearly all those who 
have been added, I have no more doubt of their conversion than 
of my own. The work has produced a general reformation." 
On the 8th of November, just one week after these delightful 
sentiments were penned, the Eev. John and Mrs. Huddleston 
arrived from England, and were much pleased with the kind 
reception which they received, as well as witli the state and 
prosperity of the Mission. They were soon joined by Mr. 
Lane, who sailed for Sierra Leone in January, 1821 ; and now 
Mr. Barker was at liberty to proceed to the river Gambia, to 
commence a new Mission, to which service he had been appointed 
by the preceding Conference. 

Messrs. Huddleston and Lane had laboured together in har- 
mony and love for several months, when the latter was called to 
the Gambia, to supply the place of a deceased Missionary. He 
returned to Sierra Leone, however, in the course of the following- 
year ; but never fully recovered from a severe attack of fever 
which he had at the Gambia. He died in peace at Free Town, 
on the 16th of April, 1823. The loss of Mr. Lane was severely- 
felt by Mr. and Mrs. Huddleston, as well as by the members of 
society and other friends ; but, painful as this bereavement was, it 
was soon followed by another mysterious dispensation of Divine 
Providence. Scarcely had three months passed away, when 
Mr. Huddleston himself was called to pass through the valley 
of the shadow of death. He died of yellow fever on the 20th 
of July, 1823, having laboured successfully for nearly three 
years, with little interruption from sickness till the time that 
he was attacked with the fatal malady. Mrs. Huddleston em- 
barked for England soon after this painful bereavement : and the 
members of the Society at Sierra Leone were once more left as 
sheep without a shepherd. 

But the station was not long left vacant. Two noble-minded 
and heroic young men, who " counted not their lives dear unto 
them " in comparison with the salvation of souls, volunteered 
their services for this post of danger and of honour. These 
were the Eev. Messrs. Piggott and Harte, who, after a passage 
of five weeks, landed in Sierra Leone on the 19th of March, 
1824. The new Missionaries were received as the angels of 



y$ PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

God, and commenced their evangelical labours in excellent 
health and spirits ; but they were destined soon to be separated. 
Mr. Harte sickened and died, of the " country fever," on the 
18th of December, after a sojourn in Africa of only nine months ; 
and his colleague was left to proceed with his work alone. On 
the 26th of May, 1826, the Eev. Samuel and Mrs. Dawson 
landed at Sierra Leone, on their way to the Gambia, their 
appointed station; but, before an opportunity offered for pro- 
ceeding to that place, they were both seized with the African 
fever; and Mrs. Dawson died on the 1st of August, only two 
months and five days after her arrival. Mr. Dawson himself was 
mercifully raised from the verge of the grave ; and, after labour- 
ing at Sierra Leone for some time, he proceeded to his appoint- 
ment at the Gambia, with a heavy heart, but fully resolved to 
spend and be spent in the service of God. He was accom- 
panied by his friend Mr. Piggott, who now returned to England 
by this route, having been relieved by the arrival of the Eev. 
Messrs. Courties and May, who reached Sierra Leone on the 
28th of November, 1S26. These two brethren pursued their 
beloved work for two years without much interruption from 
-sickness, preaching the Gospel of Christ in the respective towns 
and villages of the colony with great success. The term of 
their appointment having expired, the Eev. Messrs. Munro 
and Peck were sent out to relieve them; and the hope was 
entertained that they would reach England in safety, and be long 
spared to labour in other parts of the Mission field. But, alas ! 
it was otherwise ordained by Him whose " wisdom is unsearch- 
able, and whose ways are past finding out." The two new 
Missionaries arrived in Sierra Leone on the 16th of November, 
1828 ; and the first intelligence which they received from the 
pilot, before they landed, was, that Mr. May had died of fever on 
the 4th of October, whilst in the midst of his preparations for 
his expected voyage to England. Mr. Courties was also fre- 
quently prostrated by fever ; and when he embarked for Europe, 
lie was so weak that his brethren had to support him to the 
boat which was to convey him to the ship. The Captain seemed 
confident that he would speedily rally when they got out to sea. 
But it was not so. The poor Missionary became weaker and 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 99 

weaker, and finished Ms course three days after the ship left the 
coast of Africa. His body was committed to the great deep, 
till that day when the " sea shall give up her dead." The 
Lord, no doubt, took His servant from the evil to come; for the 
vessel in which he sailed was wrecked six days after his death, 
when every thing on board was lost, the Captain and crew saving 
their lives with great difficulty. In the mean time, Messrs. 
Munro and Peck continued to labour with zeal and diligence, 
till they were both cut down by an epidemic fever which visited 
the colony. Mr. Peck died on the 3rd, and Mr. Munro on the 
8th, of July, 1829. The intelligence of this afflictive and 
mysterious dispensation of Divine Providence was communicated 
to the Committee by the Missionaries of the Church Society, 
who manifested the greatest sympathy and kindness towards their 
beloved brethren in their dying hours. The "Wesleyan Societies 
and Congregations in Sierra Leone were now once more left 
without a single Missionary to minister to them the word of life. 
The sudden removal of Messrs. Munro and Peck, so soon 
after the death of Messrs. May and Courties, produced a deep 
and gloomy impression, not only on the minds of their personal 
relatives, but upon the minds of the friends of Missions generally. 
Some went so far as to question the propriety of continuing to 
send European Missionaries to a country so unfriendly to health. 
It is a pleasing fact, however, that, although the TTesleyan 
Missionary Committee send to "Western Africa only such as 
freely volunteer their services for that post of danger, they 
have never long wanted suitable men to fill up the vacancies 
which have so frequently occurred. It was so in this case. No 
sooner had the melancholy intelligence reached England of the 
painful bereavement which the Sierra Leone Mission had 
suffered, than a personal friend of Mr. Peck offered himself as 
his successor. The Eev. John Keightley embarked for Africa 
before the end of the year, and landed in Tree Town on the 
27th of January, 1S30. On the 18th of March in the following 
year he was joined by the Eev. "William Eitchie.* These 

The name of this honoured servant of Christ recalls to the memory of 
the writer many affecting incidents of missionary life. We were personally 
acquainted with each other from the commencement of our eventful course ; 

L OF C. H 2 



100 PART I. — WXSTKSS AFKH 

honoured and devoted Missionaries laboured in Sierra L 

for upwards of two years with much success: and:. 

lived to return home, and to serve the church 

many years, both in the West Indies and in England. Mr. 

Keightley, who still survives, is thee:;. Missi 

have ever heard of, who laboured in Wc 

years without ever having a regular attack of the 

fever. 

Before leaving Sierra Leone, early in 1833, Mr. Ritchie had 
the pleasure of receiving the Bev. Edward Ms 
sent out as bis successor ; and, towards the close of the 
year, Mr. Maer was joined by the Eev. Isaac CJa These 

two brethren laboured together earnestly and - 
extending their visits to several villages which had not been 
reached by former Missionaries. Their labou: : on inter- 

rupted, however; for Mr. Clarke, whose lungs were affected 
before he left England, never fully recovered from the erie:~ ; f 
his seasoning fever, and died in peace, of pulmonary consumption, 
on the 4th of November, 1S34, about twelve mo::: b 
his arrival ill the colony. The Bev. Benjamin Crosby 
embarked for Africa before the intelligence :: 
had reached England, and on his arrival in Sierra Leone he 
united with Mr. Maer in the work of the Mission with all his 
heart. These two faithful Ministers of Christ lid gc : 1 service 
in Western Africa; but they never saw their native land again. 
Mr. Maer, having continued at Sierra Leone longer than the 
appointed time, embarked for England on a visit, fully intend- 
ing to return; but he died at sea three days :: ing the 

and after several years of affectionate correspondence in Western Africa and 
other countries, we were favoured to labour together as colleagues in the 

same Circuit in the West Indies. A more affectionate, kind-hearted, 
generous, and devoted Missionary never crossed the sea than 'William 
Ritchie. After twenty -five years of faithful ministerial labour, ehiei 
Africa and the West Indies, he died in peace at Ashby-de-la-Zoneh, on the 
29th of May, 1S57. He had come to England a few weeks before, in hope 
of recruiting his health, which had been much impaired by his lor. 
deuce in tropical climates. But his Master saw at 

labour and suffering before he could return to his family and his flock in 
the West Indies. 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 101 

shores of Africa, on the 27th of March, 1837 ; and Mr. Crosby 
finished his useful course of labour at Sierra Leone on the 24th 
of the following month. The Rev. William Sanders had set 
out in the interim to strengthen the Mission. He arrived in 
Free Town on the 4th of December, 1835 ; and, having laboured 
with success for more than two years, he was spared to return 
to England early in the year 1838, and to be afterwards usefully 
employed in the home work. The Eev. James and Mrs. 
Patterson were also sent out the year following, and landed in 
Sierra Leone on the 10th of October, 1836 ; but Mr. Patterson 
was carried off by fever, on the 21st of May, 1837, before he 
had been in the colony eight months ; and his bereaved widow 
soon afterwards returned to England. This year was remark- 
ably unhealthy on the whole coast, the yellow fever being very 
prevalent. The Wesleyan Missionary Society lost by death, on 
their respective stations, six Missionaries and two excellent 
wives of Missionaries in less than nine months. 

This unprecedented mortality on the Western Coast of Africa 
did not damp the spirit of missionary zeal which animated the 
hearts of those who felt interested in the welfare of the poor 
Negroes. Hence it appears, that before Mr. Sanders left Sierra 
Leone he was cheered by the arrival of the Eev. Thomas and 
Mrs. Dove, and the Rev. HenryBadger, on the 19th of Xovember, 
1837. Mr. and Mrs. Dove had previously spent three years 
at the Grainbia, and w 7 ere considered in some measure inured 
to the climate. But notwithstanding this advantage, Mrs. Dove 
was cut down by fever on the 7th of June, 1840. Mr. Dove and 
Mr. Badger pursued their useful labours for more than four 
years, and were spared to return to England together in the 
month of May, 1842, other brethren having been sent out to 
relieve them. This interval, however, had not been a period 
■of uninterrupted health to the Mission families. The Eev. 
Thomas Edwards, who arrived at Sierra Leone on the ] 5th of 
December, 1838, had been brought to the verge of the grave, 
•and obliged to return to England in June, 1840. The Eev. 
Henry Eleet, who arrived in Eree Town on the 7th of January, 
1S39, finished his course on the 30th of May following ; having 
lost his beloved wife by death on board the ship three days 



102 PAET I. — WESTEKN AFRICA. 

before lie reached the shores of Africa. The Eev. David Jehu, 
who had reached Sierra Leone on the 23rd of December, 1839, 
had also been called away by death on the 2nd of July, 1840k 
Thus severely was the Mission afflicted. 

Tor some time after this eventful period the good work at 
Sierra Leone was less frequently interrupted by the inroads 
of death among the Missionaries. The Eev. Messrs. Easton 
and Annear arrived in January, 1842, and both were mercifully 
spared to return to England for a season ; Mr. Annear in May, 
1843, and Mr. Easton in February, 1845. The Eev. William 
A, and Mrs. Quick and the Eev. Richard Amos arrived at 
Sierra Leone in February, 1843 ; and the entire party were 
spared to return home in due season; Mr. and Mrs. Quick in 
May, 1844, and Mr. Amos in September, 1845. The Eev. 
Messrs. Dove and Badger, with their excellent wives, returned 
to Sierra Leone in July, 1843. Mr. and Mrs. Dove were 
spared to return home in May, 1846 ; Mr. Dove having been 
connected with the Missions in Western Africa for nearly 
thirteen years. Mrs. Badger died on the 28th of January,. 
1844 ; but Mr. Badger continued his useful labours some time 
longer, notwithstanding his bereavement, and was favoured to- 
return to England in May, 1848. On the 1st of December, 
1845, the Mission at Sierra Leone was reinforced by the arrival 
of the Eev. Thomas and Mrs. Easton, and the Eev. Messrs. 
Wayte and Griffiths, after a perilous voyage. Mrs. Easton 
was called away by death on the 27th of December, 1845 ; and 
Mr. Wayte finished his course a few weeks afterwards, on the 
16th of January, 1846. Mr. Easton returned to England in 
March, 1847 ; and Mr. Griffiths followed him in the month of 
September in the same year, having been relieved by the arrival 
of other Missionaries. On the 7th of December, 1846, the 
Eev. Eichard and Mrs. Wrench, and the Eev. John Lewis, 
arrived in Sierra Leone, but Mr. and Mrs. Wrench returned in« 
the month of June, 1847, on account of the failure of their 
health. Mr. Lewis continued his labours for some years longer.* 
and was spared to return to England in May, 1850. 

In tracing the history of missionary operations in Sierra 
Leone, and in contemplating the painful afflictions and bereave- 



CHAP. Y. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 103 

merits which present themselves to our view, it is pleasing to 
find that several devoted Missionaries who had laboured there 
were willing to return to the scene of their former labours so 
soon as their health was recruited. We have a striking instance 
of this in the case of Mr. Easton, who, with Mrs. Easton, landed 
in Eree Town, for the third time, on the 8th of December, 
1847, accompanied by Messrs. Hart and Purslow. Mr. Purs- 
low's race was soon run. He died triumphantly happy in God 
on the 2nd of October, 1848; but the rest of the party were 
spared to return to England after fulfilling their appointed 
period of service in Western Africa. They afterwards sailed for 
Australia, where they have since laboured with acceptance and 
success. In 1849, the Eev. Walter P. Garry, a native of the 
West Indies, having finished his studies at Eichmond College, 
was sent out to Sierra Leone, where he laboured for three years, 
and on his return to England received an appointment to the 
West Indies, where he has since been usefully employed in 
different islands. 

The next Mission party sent out to Sierra Leone consisted of 
the Eev. James and Mrs. Edney, Mr. Gilbert, and Mr. Eletcher, 
towards the close of 1S50, all of whom were mercifully spared 
to labour successfully for several years ; and on their return to 
England were appointed to West India stations. Eor a few 
years about this period the sickness and mortality among the 
Missionaries were much less than formerly ; and several Native 
Ministers were raised up to take a part in the good work. 
In 1852, the Eev. Lionel D. Eeay was appointed to Sierra 
Leone; and in 1854 he was joined by the Eev. Messrs. Teal 
and Dillon, all of whom were spared to return to England, after 
labouring in Africa for more than three years. This was not 
the case, however, with the Eev. William Barrowclough, who 
died of the country fever at Eree Town, on the 3rd of April, 
1856, three months after his. arrival on the coast. 

On the return to England of the Eev. Mr. and Mrs. Edney 
in 1857, the Eev. John and Mrs. Weatherston were appointed 
to Sierra Leone. Mrs. Weatherston soon sank under the 
influence of the climate ; and her bereaved husband afterwards 
returned home. The Eev. Messrs. Champness and Coe were 



104 PAST I. — WESTESST AFRICA. 

sent out in tlie interim, towards the latter end of 1858, and were 
both spared to return to their native country, where they con- 
tinue to labour with acceptance and success. In 1S59 the Eev. 
John and Mrs. Bridgart, who had laboured successfully for 
several years at the Gambia, proceeded, by direction of the Com- 
mittee, from that station to Sierra Leone, where they were soon 
afterwards joined by the Eev. James J. and Mrs. Wray, and Mr, 
Hulbert, from England, and thus the Mission was once more 
efficiently reinforced. But this noble band of labourers was 
soon broken by sickness and death. Mrs. Bridgart and Mr. 
Hulbert were both removed, after short periods of illness, to 
their heavenly rest, whilst Mr. and Mrs. Wray were obliged to 
return to England on account of affliction. Mr. Bridgart also 
embarked for Europe after his painful bereavement : but his 
health and constitution were so completely shattered by what he 
had passed through, that he sank before the voyage was com- 
pleted, and never saw his native land again. The number of 
labourers was thus reduced, when the Eev. Messrs. Berry and 
Blanshard arrived in Sierra Leone in January, 1860, both of 
whom were spared to return to England. These excellent 
brethren were joined by the Eev. James W. Bertie on the 10th 
of November, IS 61, who returned home in 1865 ; the Eev. 
Joseph Hall having gone out in the interim to strengthen the 
Mission. For several years after the removal of the Eev. James 
Edney to the West Indies, the Sierra Leone District had been 
left without a General Superintendent, when, in 1864, the Eev. 
Benjamin Tregaskis was appointed to that important office, 
having nobly offered his services for Western Africa, after 
labouring in the West Indies for nearly thirty years. 

Notwithstanding the interruptions occasioned by the sickness 
and death of so many of the Missionaries, it is delightful to 
contemplate the rapid progress of the Sierra Leone Mission. 
Several substantial chapels have been erected, both in the 
capital of the colony and in the country towns and villages, 
which are crowded with attentive hearers on the Sabbath. A 
number of schools are in active operation for the training up of 
the rising generation, and a Theological Institution has been 
established for the education of young men as teachers and 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS (LND MISSIONS. 105 

Preachers, which lias already been productive of much good.* 
Since the Mission was commenced a large number of Africans, 
chiefly liberated slaves, have been brought to a saving 
knowledge of the truth, many of whom have iied in the faith 

and hope of the Gospel : and there are now about six thousand 
church members ::: the respective stations, and upwards of four 
thousand scholars under instruction in the Mission schools, 
- T -h;^: eight Missionaries are usefully employed in the work, rive 
of whom are native African Ministers, themselves the fruit of 
missionary labour. On the occasion of the celebration of the 
Jubilee, the largest chapel was crowded, and the contributions 
promised amounted to more than four hundred pounds. 

CAPE COAST SETTLEMENT. 

Fhis place is situated in that part of Guinea called the Gold 
Coast, in latitude 5° 6' north, and in longitude 1° 10' west. It 
" remarkable for its castle, an extensive and strong 
fortress, which was erected by the African Company for the 
protection of their trade, at an early period of their organiza- 
tion. The castle stands upon an elevated point of land, about 
twenty feet above the level of the sea. and forms a striking 
object, as seen from the ships at anchor in the roads. It is not 
inly :: sufficient magnitude ;: afford accommodation for the 
troops, but it also includes within its massive walls the residences 
:: the Governor and other public functionaries; and the whole 

* Dr. Pool, a Clergyman of the Church of England. Dears the follow- 
ing testimony to the excellent character of the TVesleyan Institution 
for the training of native Missionaries and teachers at King Tom's 
Point, Sierra Leone: — Ci It Las a good library, and the pupils are 
boarded and lodged in the Institution. The education is not confined to 
theological subjects, but embraces general knowledge. I know that the 

res delivered to these young people are extremely creditable to those 
who have to prepare them : and that every care is taken by the Tutors and 

::ers to fulfil their duties efficiently. Xo place could have been selected 
adapted to the purpose of such an establishment. The situation 
itself, — close upon the sea. — at a short distance, scarcely a mile, from the 
town, is everything that could be desired. The buildings afford ample 
accommodation, aud are enclosed within extensive grounds.'"*— Pool's 
Narrative, 



106 PAET I. WESTERN AFRICA. 

British population have taken refuge in it when attacked by an 
invading foe. The town is situated behind the fort, and 
consists of a few good stone buildings, belonging to about a 
dozen European merchants and respectable natives. The rest .: 
the houses are built of ;; swish," a composition of mud and grass, 
which is durable so long as it is protected from the rain by a pro- 
jecting roof. The population is estimated at rive thousand, and 
is of that mixed character which is so common in all the West 
African settlements. 

The promontory en which Cape Coast Castle stands i 
originally settled by the Portuguese ; but the Dutch dispossessed 
them in a few years, and took great care to strengthen the 
fortifications as much as possible. Admiral Holmes captured it 
in 1661, since which time it has remained in the possession of 
Great Britain, having been confirmed to us by the treaty of 
Breda. There are several other minor forts on the line of coast 
included within the boundaries of the settlement, which are the 
centres of a considerable trade, earned on by the native-, in 
gold dust, ivory, palm oil, dye woods, and ground nuts, for 
which are given articles of European manufacture. In former 
times, this settlement used frequently to be at war with the 
neighbouring tribes ; and it was in a sanguinary contest with 
the Ashantis that Sir Charles Macarthy lost his life. A better 
understanding had existed for many years, when another rupture 
took place between the British authorities and the King cf 
Ashanti, in IS 81, which is much to be deplored, as the whole 
country was beginning to feel the benign influence of 
Christianity. 

Although the English have been so long dominant on this 
part of the coast, comparatively little was done till a few years 
ago for the moral elevation of the natives. As early as 1751, 
a Clergyman of the Church of England, in connexion with the 
Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Part?, was 
appointed to labour at Cape Coast Castle. He continued in the 
capacity of Colonial Chaplain for four years; bu: very -i _ :-e 
impression seems to have been made on the minds of the 
natives. His health failing, he returned to England, and took 
with him three native boys for education. One of these, named 



CHAP. T. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 107 

Quaque, was afterwards sent to the University of Oxford ; and 
being subsequently ordained to the sacred office, he was 
appointed Chaplain to Cape Coast Castle. This post he con- 
tinued to occupy for more than fifty years ; but it does not 
appear that he was instrumental in turning any of his fellow- 
countrymen to the faith of the Gospel. Noi is this matter of 
surprise, when it is known that, on his death-bed. he had at 
least as much confidence in the influence of the Fetish as in the 
power of Christianity. Several English Chaplains, who were 
sent out after the death of Quaque, successively died soon after 
their arrival in the settlement, and the country was left in a 
state of fearful moral destitution for many years. 

It was not till the year IS 34 that the Wesleyan Missionary 
Society commenced its labours at Cape Coast. The way was 
opened for this enterprise by a particular providence. A few 
native youths had learned to read the Bible in the Government 
school established at that place, and their minds became so deeply 
impressed with the contents of the sacred volume, that they 
formed themselves into a society, for the more careful reading 
and study of the Holy Scriptures. As their supply of the 
precious book was very limited, they agreed to send to England 
for a number of copies of the Xew Testament. They made 
their case known to Captain Potter, the master of a merchant 
vessel from Bristol. The heart of this noble-minded man was 
so impressed in their favour, that he not only procured the 
necessary supply of Scriptures, but also called at the Wesleyan 
Mission House, in London, and generously offered to take out a 
Missionary to Cape Coast free of expense to the Society, 
engaging, at the same time, to bring him back to England, if 
the attempt to introduce the Gospel should prove a failure. 

The Society gladly availed themselves of this benevolent- 
offer, recognising the hand of God in the whole affair ; and the 
Rev. Joseph Dunwell was appointed to commence the Mission 
on the Gold Coast. He accordingly sailed, with Captain Potter, 
towards the close of the year, and landed at Cape Coast Castle 
on the 1st of January, 1S35. He was received with every 
mark of kindness by his Excellency Governor M'Lean, and with 
feelings of rapture by the native youths who were so anxious to 



10S PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

be instructed in the knowledge of the sacred Scriptures. The 
young Missionary opened his commission to preach the Gospel 
in Africa under circumstances peculiarly encouraging, and was 
soon favoured with evident tokens of the Divine presence and 
blessing, not only in Cape Coast Town, but in other places in 
the settlement which he visited, to make known the glad tidings 
of salvation. His career, however, was soon terminated. He 
was cut down by fever on the 24th of June, 1S35, in the midst 
of his usefulness ; and thus rested from his labours, in less 
than six months after his arrival in the country. 

Some time after the lamented death of Mr. Dunwell, two 
other Missionaries and their wives, the Rev. George 0. and 
Mrs. "VTrigley, and the Eev. Peter and Mrs. Harrop, were sent 
out to occupy the vacant station ; the party first named arriving 
in Africa on the 15th of September, 1S3G, and the others on the 
15th of January, 1S37. They laboured with great success 
during the short time they were permitted to live ; but within 
the short space of fifteen months the whole of this noble band 
were numbered with the dead, having, like many others, fallen a 
sacrifice to the climate. Indeed, both Mr. and Mrs. Harrop 
died in three weeks after their arrival ! They finished their 
course, and were called to their reward, in the following order : — 
Mrs. Harrop on the 5th of February, Mr. Harrop and Mrs. 
Wrigley on the 8th of February, and Mr. "Wrigley on the 16th 
of November, 1S37. We may imagine the feelings of the poor 
afflicted and bereaved Missionary, Mr. Wrigley, the last sur- 
vivor of the four, when he was called to close the eyes of his 
beloved wife and those of his dear colleague in the same hour, 
and that within three days of the death of the first victim. In 
writing to the Committee shortly afterwards, he says, i: Life, 
indeed, in my circumstances, has no charms ; nor could I 
support myself beneath the weight of such a stroke, were it not 
for the hope of ere long joining the glorified spirit of my 
devoted partner, and, in the mean time, of following up those 
victories of the cross of our Emmanuel, which together we 
have been enabled to achieve to His glory since we arrived on 
these inhospitable shores." This hope of meeting in heaven the 
glorified spirits of the departed was soon realized ; but the 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 109 

members of the infant church were left in the wilderness, as 
sheep without a shepherd. 

Notwithstanding this mysterious and afflictive dispensation of 
Divine Providence, the Society could not reconcile the idea of 
relinquishing such an important Mission with a sense of duty, 
so long as willing labourers were found to occupy the post of 
danger : and towards the close of the same year the Eev. T. 
B. and Mrs. Freeman were sent out to supply the vacant 
station. They arrived at Cape Coast on the 3rd of January, 
1S3S ; and on the 20th of February following Mrs. Freeman 
was cut down by fever, after a few hours 5 illness. On the 13th 
of January, 1840, the Eev, Mr. and Mrs. Mycock and Mr. 
Brooking arrived at Cape Coast to reinforce the Mission, and to 
enable Mr. Freeman to visit England. This party were ail 
mercifully spared to return home, after fulfilling different periods 
of service in Africa. Early in the year 1541, Mr. Freeman 
with Mrs. Freeman (second) returned to the Gold Coast, accom- 
panied by Mr. and Mrs. Hesk, Mr. and Mrs. Shipman, and 
Messrs. Watson, Thackwray, and Walden ; but 2\Irs. Freeman 
died on the 25 th of August following, and Mrs. Hesk was 
called to her reward three days afterwards. Two of the 
brethren belonging to this party were also called to rest from 
their labours soon after their arrival ; Mr. Thackwray on the -ith 
of May, and Mr. TYalden on the 29th of July. Thus four out 
of the nine died within seven months after the date of their 
landing on the shores of Africa ; and the fifth, Mr. Shipman, 
finished his course on the 22nd of February, 1S13, after 
labouring with success for two years. Mr. Hesk and Mrs. 
Shipman returned to England almost immediately after their 
respective bereavements ; and Mr. Watson was also spared to 
return home, after fulfilling his appointed period of service in 
Western Africa. In January, 1842, the Eev. William Allen 
arrived at Cape Coast, and was spared to return to England, 
after labouring efficiently for two years. This was not the case, 
however, with the Eev. Messrs. TYyatt and Eowlands, who 
arrived a few weeks afterwards. Mr. Wyatt died on the 6th of 
April, when he had only been about three months in the 
country; and Mr. Eowlands was called away on the 10th of 



110 PATtT I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

July, after a residence of about six months. On the 23rd 
of January, 1843, the Eev. Mr. and Mrs. Watkins, and the 
Rev. Mr. Chapman, landed at Cape Coast, to strengthen the 
Mission ; but Mrs. Watkins only lived thirty-nine days after her 
arrival, being called away on the 1st of March, after a short but 
painful illness. About thirteen months afterwards she was 
followed to a better world by her beloved husband, who finished 
his earthly course on the 7th of February, 1844. Mr. Chapman 
was spared to return to England, and was afterwards usefully 
employed as a Missionary in South Africa. 

The next Missionary party sent out to the Gold Coast con- 
sisted of the Eev. Mr. and Mrs. Annear, who had previously 
laboured at Sierra Leone, and the Eev. Messrs. Martin and 
Greaves. They arrived on the 12th of December, 1843. Mr. 
and Mrs. Annear and Mr. Martin were spared to return to 
England ; but Mr. Greaves fell a sacrifice to the climate, on the 
14th of July, 1844, about seven months after his arrival. On 
the 20th of March, 1844, the Eev. E. Brooking landed at Cape 
Coast Castle, for the second time, accompanied by Mrs. 
Brooking. They were both spared to return to England, and 
were afterwards usefully employed in Canada and the Hudson's 
Bay Territories. 

On the 23rd of June, 1845, the Eev. T. B. Freeman returned 
to Cape Coast, for the third time, accompanied by the Eev. 
Henry Wharton, a native of the "West Indies, and himself 
the fruit of missionary toil, who still continues to labour 
efficiently in Western Africa.* On the 30th of December, in 

* The writer would here record his gratitude to almighty God for His 
mercy aud goodness in the preservation of this zealous Missionary for so 
many years. He had the honour of directing Mr. Wharton's studies in 
early life, and of recommending him for the Christian ministry ; and when 
fully engaged in the work, Mr. Wharton was his colleague on a West India 
station for two years, up to the time of his nobly offering himself for 
Western Africa. From this period, he had faithfully laboured on the Gold 
Coast for nineteen years, without ever being absent from his post of duty, 
when in 1864 he paid a pleasant visit to England, the incidents of which will 
long be remembered. To show the character of the work in which Mr. 
Wharton was engaged immediately on his arrival in Africa, we here quote a 
sentence or two from a letter received from him, dated Kuniasi, capital of 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. Ill 

the same year, the Eev. William Allen arrived at Cape Coast, 
for the second time, accompanied by Mrs. Allen, and the Eev. 
Messrs. Findlay and Addison. They were spared to return to 
England, after labouring efficiently for two or three years, with 
the exception of Mr. Findlay. This pious young Missionary 
fell a sacrifice to the climate on the 10th of March, 1846, about 
eight weeks after his arrival. On the 7th of January, 1847, 
the Eev. Messrs. Thomas, Harrop, and Hillard arrived at Cape 
Coast, and were all spared to return to England, after labouring 
successfully for two and three years respectively. In the month 
of March, 1849, the Eev. E. Hart arrived at Cape Coast, and 
towards the close of the year 1850 he was followed by the Eev. 
Messrs. Gardener and Eichards. Messrs. Hart and Eichards 
were obliged to return to England at an early period, on account 
of the failure of their health ; but Mr. Gardener continued to 
labour on different stations in the Gold Coast District, with 

Ashanti, August 1st, 1846 : — "Chi the occasion of my being presented to 
the King, there could not have been an assemblage of less than 9,000 or 
10,000 souls, all immersed in the grossest ignorance and superstition, 
literally e without God and without hope in the world.' One incident 1 
must not omit to mention ; and being the first of the kind I had ever 
witnessed, I shall not easily forget it. Whilst waiting to pay my respects 
to the King and his Councillors, two men, about to be sacrificed, were 
marched along near where I sat. They were in a state of complete nudity. 
Their arms were closely tied behind their backs. Long spear-knives were 
thrust through their cheeks, from which the blood flowed copiously, and 
curdled on their breasts. The moans of one of the victims in particular 
w r ere heart-rending. Never till that moment did I fully realize my position 
as a Missionary in miserable, degraded, pitiless Africa. Eight human beings 
fell under the sacrificial knife, in honour of the deceased Queen of Jabin, in 
Kumasi alone. The number slaughtered in Jabin itself must have been 
immense. I have since seen a Captain from there, who was present at the 
custom, and who informed me that upwards of 300 were sacrificed in 
that town. Human sacrifices are almost of daily occurrence in Kumasi. I 
have witnessed several decapitations already, and I have seen as many as 
twelve headless human bodies scattered along the public streets. The 
constantly witnessing such cold-blooded murders has almost paralysed my 
efforts ; and I am sometimes led to think that human sacrifices will never be 
done away in Kumasi. Then, again, my gloomy thoughts are dispelled, 
when I remember what has been done in other lands by the regenerating 
power of the Gospel." 



112 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

great acceptance and efficiency, for the long term of nine years ; 
and since his return to England he has been usefully employed 
in the home work. 

Several Native Ministers having been raised up to take a 
part in the good work, some years now elapsed before any more 
Missionaries were sent from England, Towards the close of 
IS 5 6, however, the Rev. William and Mrs. West, who had long 
and usefully laboured in the "West Indies, proceeded to Cape 
Coast, where they arrived on the ISth of November. The 
Mission was further strengthened, in the following year, by the 
arrival of the Eev. John A. Gumey from the Gambia. In the in- 
terim, the circumstances of the Cape Coast District appearing to 
require such a measure, the Committee sent out the Eev. Daniel 
West as a special deputation to examine into the state of the 
work ; and, had he lived to report, in person, the result of his 
observations, the benefit to the future operations of the Mis- 
sions would, no doubt, have been considerable; but, in the 
order of Divine Providence, he was not permitted to see his 
native land again. He died at the Gambia, where he had 
called on his homeward passage, on the 24th of February, IS 5 7. 

The next Missionary sent out to the Cape Coast was the 
Eev. William H. Milward in 1S59 ; but he was soon obliged to 
return on account of the failure of his health. Mr. and Mrs. 
West, and Mr. Gurney, also returned this year, having more 
than completed the term of their appointment. After these 
departures, there was not one European Missionary remaining 
in the District. The labourers were generally natives of 
Western Africa, with Mr. Wharton, a native of the West Indies, 
at their head. In IS 60, however, the Eev. Thomas and Mrs. 
Champness, who had previously laboured at Sierra Leone, and 
the Eev. Messrs. Moms and Sharp, were sent out to the Gold 
Coast District, where they arrived in the month of December ; 
but Mr. Morris was soon obliged to return home, in conse- 
quence of the failure of his health ; and he was succeeded by 
the Eev. Alfred Taylor, who arrived at Cape Coast on the 18th 
of January, IS 62, accompanied by the Eev. W. West, who now 
went out to Western Africa, as General Superintendent, for the 
second time. In IS 63, the Gold Coast Mission was reinforced 



CHAP. T. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 113 

by the appointment of the Rev. Messrs. Davis, Gardiner, and 
Sykes ; the "Rev. Mr. Champness having been obliged to return 
to England, in consequence of the failure of his health, and the 
loss of his beloved wife at Abbeokuta. The number of Mis- 
sionaries necessary for the efficient working of this extensive 
District having been reduced by the return to England of the 
Rev. Messrs. Gardiner, Taylor, and Sharp, the Rev. Messrs. 
Richmond, Robinson, and Cuthbert were sent ont in 1864 \ but 
Mr. Cuthbert was cut down by fever at Lagos, a few weeks 
after bis arrival. The Mission also suffered a serious loss, this 
year, in the death of the Rev. Edward Bickersteth, an excellent 
and useful Xative Minister. 

Amid the various changes and privations through which the 
Missions on the Gold Coast and in other parts of Guinea have 
had to pass, they have been favoured by a measure of prosperity 
which is really astonishing. The work has not only taken deep 
root in Cape Coast Town ; but it has also been extended to 
Dix Cove, Elmina, Anamabu, D.nnonasi, James Town, (Akrah,) 
AYinnibah, Lagos, Badagry, TVhydah, Abbeokuta, and other 
places ; including Kumasi, the blood-stained capital of Ashanti. 
In these places Christian congregations have been gathered, 
Mission schools established, and a large amount of real spiritual 
good effected. It is pleasing to record that in the Gold Coast 
District the Wesleyan Missionary Society has eighteen chapels, 
fourteen J.lissionaries, (nine of idiom are natives of Africa.) 
nearly three thousand church members, and about fifteen hundred 
children in the Mission schools, whilst upwards of eight thousand 
natives have been brought under the sound of the Gospel. 

THE GAMBIA. 

Although the navigation of the river Gambia had been left, 
for many years, almost entirely to the English, it was not till 
after the restoration of the Senegal and Goree to the French in 
1S16, that a permanent settlement was formed for the encou- 
ragement of legitimate commerce, and the suppression of the 
• slave trade. The place selected for this purpose was an island 
called St. Mary's, four miles long, and one broad, situated 
about ten milts from the mouth of the river, and separated from 

I 



114 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

the main land towards the south by a narrow creek called the 
" Oyster Creek." The island is generally low and swampy ; 
but it was considered the most eligible place for a settlement 
from its commanding position, and the excellent anchorage 
which the river affords, at this point, for vessels of almost any 
burden. The principal town is Bathurst, which stands on the 
northern side of the island, facing the main branch of the river, 
in latitude 13° north, and longitude 17° west. It contains a 
number of excellent houses, among which may be noted the 
Government House, the Wesley an Mission-House and chapel, 
the barracks, the hospital, and the prison. The town is laid 
out with wide streets at right angles ; and the one which runs 
parallel with the river contains a number of excellent stone 
buildings, with verandahs in front, which not only afford a most 
delightful prospect to the inhabitants, but give to the place 
a beautiful appearance when viewed from the shipping in 
the harbour. The back part of the town is occupied chiefly- 
with native huts, formed of wattled cane, thatched with long 
grass, and neathr plastered and whitewashed. Soldiers' Town, 
Melville Town, Goderich Town, Jollar Town, and Moka Town, 
are mere villages in different parts of the island. The popu- 
lation of the colony may be estimated at about fifty Europeans, 
and three thousand natives ; of whom a more particular account 
will afterwards be given. 

No provision had been made for the moral and religious 
instruction of the colonists, or of the native tribes of this part 
of Africa, when the Wesleyan Missionary Society commenced its 
labours in the year 1821. The first Missionary sent out was 
the Rev. John Morgan, who arrived at St. Mary's on the 8th 
of February. He was soon afterwards joined by the Eev. John 
Baker from Sierra Leone, when the two devoted brethren began 
to look about for the most eligible site for a Mission station. 
Their object being chiefly to benefit the surrounding native 
tribes, they were anxious, if possible, to establish themselves on 
the main land ; and Tentabar having been recommended as a 
suitable place, Mr. Morgan went there alone on a visit of 
observation, as Mr. Baker was suffering from indisposition. 
The King of that part of the country readily granted permission 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 115 

for the Missionaries to settle on his land, but signified his 
inability to afford them protection in case they should be 
molested by the people ; so the idea of going there was 
relinquished. On the partial recovery of Mr. Baker, the 
Missionaries went together on a visit to the King of Combo, 
on the southern bank of the Gambia. Having offered their 
presents, they were graciously received by his sable Majesty, 
who signified his consent for the strangers to settle in any part 
of the country which they might select. They ultimately fixed 
upon a place called Mandanaree, about eight miles from St. 
Mary's, and commenced, soon afterwards, to fell the trees, and 
to build a house to live in, which they completed in a few 
weeks, with the help of the natives. During the erection and 
subsequently, the Missionaries alternately visited St. Mary's 
once a week to preach to the people, and sometimes they went 
together. On the 14th of June, their temporary dwelling 
house was so far advanced as to admit of their occupying it, 
which they found a great relief, having hitherto lodged with a 
Xegro in his hut amid many discomforts. Although consider- 
ably elevated, the place selected for a Mission station at Man- 
danaree was far from healthy ; and when the rainy season 
commenced, both the Missionaries were prostrated with fever, 
and were obliged to be removed to St. Mary's, where they could 
have medical aid. Before the end of the year, however, Mr. 
Baker proceeded to the West Indies, by direction of the Com- 
mittee, his health being so impaired, by his long-continued 
labours on the coast of Africa, as to require a change. 

Mr. Morgan had recovered from his first attack of fever, and 
was proceeding in his beloved work, when he had the pleasure 
of receiving the Rev. Mr. Bell on the 28th of January, 18?:2, 
who had been sent from England to his assistance. This 
devoted young Missionary appeared well adapted for the enter- 
prise in which he had embarked ; but he was soon called away 
to a better country. He died of fever at St. Mary's, on the 
15th of March, forty-six days after his arrival. Mr. Morgan 
was thus left once more alone ; and the brethren at Sierra 
Leone, being aware of his circumstances, sent the Rev. Mr. 
Lane to his assistance. This arrangement, though well-meant, 

i 2 



116 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

was not of much advantage to the Gambia, as the young Mis- 
sionary was soon disabled from active duty by affliction, and 

obliged to return to Sierra Leone, where he scon afterwards 
rested from his labour. On hearing of the loss which the 
Mission had sustained, the Committee sent out the Eev. Eobert 
and Mrs Hawkins, who arrived at St. Mary's on the 14th of 
April, 1824. This valuable accession to the strength of the 
Mission enabled Mr. Morgan to undertake a voyage to Maear- 
thy's Island, about three hundred miles up the Gambia, with a 
view to commence a Mission there. He had visited this place 
the year before, iu company with Major Grant, the Governor, 
when it was selected as a suitable locality for a settlement : and 
he had ever since cherished the hope of planting the standard 
of the cross on that advanced post in the interior. The enter- 
prising Missionary embarked accordingly ; and reached Macar- 
thy's Island on the 28th of April : but he found the difficulties 
so numerous, the heat so intense, and his state of health so 
feeble, that he was obliged to return to St. Mary's without 
having organized a Mission station, which he so much desired. 
In the early part of 1825, Mr, Morgan was under the necessity 
of returning to England, with his health and constitution much 
impaired, having diligently and successfully laboured at the 
Gambia upwards of four years. 

Mr. and Mrs. Hawkins had the seasoning fever very severely ; 
but were mercifully restored to a moderate state of health in a 
short time, and proceeded in their beloved work with evident 
tokens of the Divine presence and blessing. The attempt to 
establish a station at Mandanaree had now been entirely 
relinquished, and the labours of the Missionary were confined 
to St. Mary's, where there was abundance of work, and a much 
better prospect of success. The first Missionaries had not 
preached many times in Batliurst, when they were encouraged 
by witnessing two or three clear instances of conversion. These 
first-fruits, with other inquirers, were gathered into a class, 
for further instruction; and a small Native Christian Church 
was formed at an early period, which was constantly receiving 
accessions to its number of members. A Mission school had 
also been established ; and now the girls as well as the female 
members of society had the advantage of the oversight and 



CHAP. V. — ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS AND MISSIONS. 117 

eare or the Missionary's excellent wife. The religious services 
were at first conducted in the open air, and afterwards in a 

hired house ; but now a substantial stone building had been 
erected, which answered the double purpose of chapel and 
school-room, with arrangements also for a Mission-House, the 
Missionary's residence being on the second hoor, and the 
meeting-house in the basement story. Thus was the Mission 
fairly established on a permanent basis ; and the good work 
progressed in a very pleasing manner. 

In 1826 the Eev. Samuel and Mrs. Dawson were sent out 
from England, to relieve Mr. and Mrs. Hawkins, who had fulfilled 
the term of their appointment ; but as no opportunity offered for 
the Gambia direct, they embarked for Sierra Leone. Whilst 
they were detained in that colony, they had their seasoning 
fever, under which Mrs. Dawson sank, as already stated ; and 
her bereaved husband, on his recovery, had to proceed to his 
appointment at the Gambia alone, where he only arrived on the 
12th of February in the following year. In the month of May 
Mr. and Mrs. Hawkins embarked for England, where they 
arrived in safety, after a short and pleasant passage ; and were 
subsequently appointed to the West indies, where they laboured 
long and successfully in the work of the Lord. 

The next Missionary to the Gambia was the Eev. Richard 
Marshall, who, with Mrs. Marshall, arrived at St. Mary's on 
the 15th of November, 1828; and Mr. Dawson, being thus 
relieved, was spared to return to England, having fulfilled his 
appointed period of service in Western Africa. The following 
rainy season was one of peculiar sickness and mortaLity ail 
along the coast ; but the newly arrived Missionary and his 
wife at the Gambia passed through their seasoning fever as 
well as they could have expected, having taken a voyage to 
Goree for a change of air in the mean time, and were thus 
spared to prosecute their work with comfort and success. This 
was not tie case, however, the following year. Mr. Marshall 
was suddenly cut down by malignant fever, after five days' 
illness, on the 19th of August, 1830.* Two day- after her 

* The reader will find an interesting memoir of the Rev. Richard Marshall, 
b\ the Rev. J. E. Coulsoa, in the Wesleyaii Methodist Magazine, for 1S33, 
page 1. 



118 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

painful bereavement Mrs. Marshall embarked for England, 
with her infant son, and an African nurse. She arrived in 
Bristol on the 1st of October, in a state of great mental and 
bodily suffering; and, being seized with convulsions, she expired 
about forty- eight hours after she landed, and before she had an 
opportunity of seeing any of her friends. 

It was under these painful and afflictive circumstances that 
the writer and his dear partner were appointed to St. Mary's 
on the river Gambia, as the successors of Mr. and Mrs. 
Marshall, who were so mysteriously called to a better world, 
in the midst of their usefulness. In the preceding pages we 
have been obliged to confine ourselves to a mere outline of the 
respective stations which have passed under review • but in the 
following chapters we propose to give a personal narrative of 
missionary labour at the river Gambia, detailing such facts and 
incidents as appear likely to give the reader a correct idea of 
the character of our work in Western Africa. 



CHAPTER VL 

GOMMEXCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 

The Providence of God — Missionary Orphan Boy — Appointment to Africa 
— Farewell to England — Reception by the Natives — Interview with 
the Governor — First Sabbath — Arrangement of Labour — Preaching — 
Schools — Juvenile Prayer-Meeting — Marriage Ceremonies — Birth of 
Children — Funeral Rites — Burial Ground — Mohammedan Training — 
Native Labourers — John Cupidon — Pierre Sallah. 

The doctrine of a particular providence is frequently recog- 
nised by the humble Christian, in his own experience ; and, 
speaking of the Almighty, an inspired writer has said, " In all 
thy ways acknowledge Him, and He shall direct thy paths." 
(Prov. iii. £.) We sometimes find, that the most important 
events of our lives depend upon incidents and circumstances 
which in themselves appear trifling and insignificant. This I 



CHAP VI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 119 

have frequently observed, and regard it as very important for 
all, and especially for young persons, on commencing the 
journey of life, that they should watch for the " moving of the 
cloud " before they advance, and seek for Divine direction, by- 
earnest prayer, in every step they take. On reviewing the past, 
and retracing all the way in which the Lord has led me these 
many years in the wilderness, I cannot but regard my appoint- 
ment to labour as a Christian Missionary among the sable sons 
of Ham, as peculiarly providential. 

Having been brought to a knowledge of the truth in early 
life, chiefly through the instrumentality of pious parents, and 
Sabbath-school instruction, I soon felt it upon my heart to 
proclaim the Gospel of Christ to my perishing fellow men, as 
the Lord enabled me. For some time I was employed as a 
Local Preacher in the neighbourhood of my native place ; and, 
from the success which attended these humble efforts, and the 
longing desire which I felt to promote the interests of the 
Eedeemer's kingdom, I was induced to believe that the Lord 
had a still greater work for me to do in His vineyard. At 
length the way seemed to open; and, urged by my spiritual 
advisers, and constrained by " the love of Christ," I was led 
to offer myself as a candidate for the Christian ministry, having 
for some time previously pursued a course of study, with a 
view to a more full preparation for the sacred office ; the 
responsibilities of w T hich, even in prospect, pressed heavily upon 
my spirits. After passing the usual examinations, I was 
cordially received as a probationer for the Christian ministry 
by the Wesley an Conference of 1830. Believing, however, 
that I was more particularly called to preach the Gospel in 
heathen lands, I gave expression to this feeling at the District 
Meeting, and was soon afterwards directed to proceed to London 
for a further examination before the Missionary Committee, 
with reference to adaptation to the foreign department of the 
work. Here I met with several young men who had come up 
to the great metropolis for the same purpose, and with whom 
I formed an agreeable acquaintance, and whose names are still 
dear to me, although I may never be permitted to meet them 
again in this world. Having, with several others, been fully 



120 PATIT I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

accepted for foreign missionary service, we were pursuing our 
studies under the direction of the celebrated Eicbard Watson, 
and prayerfully awaiting our appointments, when circumstances 
occurred which soon fixed the sphere of my future labours. 

It was on a cold morning in the -month of October, 1830, that 
a Negro girl presented herself at the door of the old Mission- 
House in Hatton Garden, carrying in her arms a poor sickly- 
looking white child. This little infant was the orphan son of 
the late Eev. Eichard Marshall, who had died at the river 
Gambia, in Western Africa, of malignant fever, on the 19th of 
August in the same year, as stated in the last chapter. Mrs. 
Marshall embraced the first opportunity which presented itself, 
and embarked for England two days after the funeral of her 
dear husband, bringing with her their infant son, and the 
African girl Sally, to take care of them during the passage. 
When they arrived in Bristol, Mrs. Marshall found herself in a 
state of great bodily weakness, as well as extreme mental suffer- 
ing ; and being otherwise in a peculiar condition, she was anxious 
to proceed at once to her friends at Newcastle-upon-Tyne. But, 
in the order of Divine Providence, this was denied her. She 
became worse, being seized with convulsions ; all hope of life 
now vanished, and she expired, about forty-eight hours after she 
had landed on the shores of her native country, leaving her 
helpless orphan and his African nurse as " strangers in a strange 
land." Sally had been faithful to her precious charge ; and 
having proceeded to London immediately after the funeral of 
her beloved mistress, they both now appeared before us.* 

This little incident was peculiarly affecting to the missionary 
candidates, who were expecting soon to leave their native land. 
We all felt deeply interested in the Missionary's orphan boy, 
and we were delighted to observe the mutual attachment which 
subsisted between him and his African nurse. Sally's love for 
little Eichard seemed excessive ; and whilst she carefully folded 
him in her sable arms, and bedewed him with her tears, she 
would tell of her country, and of her master and mistress, with 

* The pious Negro girl Sally returned to Africa, after she had taken little 
Richard to the friends of his parents in Newcastle-upon-Tyne ; and she died, 
happy in God at St. Mary's, in the year 1836. 



CHAP. VI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 121 

an energy and pathos that were truly affecting, and especially so 
to a number of ardent young men in our circumstances. 

It was stated by the Missionary Committee that a Missionary 
was required immediately to succeed the late Mr. Marshall at 
the Gambia station ; and many inquiries were made among the 
young men as to who felt disposed to engage in such a 
perilous enterprise. In consequence of the great mortality 
among the Missionaries in Western Africa for several years past, 
the Society had resolved in future to send none but those who 
voluntarily offered their services for that arduous and dangerous 
sphere of labour. I had felt disposed from the first to offer 
myself for Western Africa ; but still more so when the General 
Secretaries directed my attention to that department of the 
Mission field, from an impression that my type of constitution 
was well adapted for the climate. After sincere prayer to 
Almighty God for Divine direction, and consulting with my 
friends on the subject, I felt it upon my heart to make the 
voluntary offer which was required, and to say with the prophet, 
" Here am I, send me;" and I was at once appointed to St. 
Mary's, on the river Gambia, as the successor of the lamented 
Mr. Marshall. 

Then came the painful hour of separation. On those scenes 
of sorrow I dare not dwell, though they left upon my memory 
an impression never to be effaced. To be severed from the 
companions of our childhood, and the friends of our riper years, 
who have become entwined around our hearts by the tenderest 
ties of affection ; to say farewell to those with whom we have 
taken " sweet counsel, and walked to the house of God in com- 
pany ;" and to bid adieu, perhaps for ever, to parents, brothers, 
sisters, home, and country, are trials of no ordinary character, 
and must ever be accompanied with feelings of the tenderest 
emotion. The inward conflict which is experienced by a sensi- 
tive mind on such occasions can be fully understood by those 
only who have endured the painful struggle, and who have 
literally "left all to follow Christ," in embarking for fcreign 
unhealthy climes, to carry the giuu tidings of salvation to the 
perishing heathen. Under such circumstances, how necessary 
to feel assured that we are in the path of duty, and that our 



122 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

motives are pure; so that we may realize the fulfilment of that 
gracious promise, " As thy days, so shall thy strength be." 

Having been solemnly ordained and set apart for the great 
work of the Christian ministry, and also united in marriage to 
one who was willing to share with me the dangers and toils of 
missionary life, we left London Bridge for Gravesend, in a 
steamboat, on Saturday, the 12th of February, 1831, accom- 
panied by our dear friend, the Eev. Elijah Hoole, D.D. It was 
with peculiar feelings that we took leave of this gentleman, and 
of the Revs. T. Edwards, J. James, R. Watson, Dr. Townley, and 
their respective families, who had showed us no small kindness 
during our stay in the great metropolis, at a time when kindness 
and sympathy were most required. As the vessel in which we 
were to sail had not yet come down the river, we spent the 
Sabbath at Gravesend. At the request of the Rev. W. Hinson, 
the resident minister, who was suffering from indisposition, I 
preached both morning and evening to good congregations ; and 
I felt it a great privilege to be thus engaged on the last Sabbath 
that I expected to spend in my native land. In the afternoon I 
conducted a lovefeast, at which several of the members spoke 
with much feeling ; and many fervent prayers were offered to 
God for His blessing both on us and our Mission. Such was 
the gracious influence that attended the services of this day, 
that we felt as if we were baptized afresh with the Holy Spirit 
for our important work ; and we were not only encouraged, 
but stimulated, to go forward in the strength of our Divine 
Master. 

On Monday morning, the 14th, we embarked on board the 
brig " Amelia," commanded by Captain M'Taggart. We were 
accompanied to the vessel by Mr. Hinson, Miss Hinson, and 
Mrs. Redman, of Gravesend. After these dear friends had left 
us, we weighed anchor, and proceeded on our eventful voyage. 
A gentle breeze springing up, and the tide being in our favour, 
we proceeded rapidly down the river; but, on reaching the 
Downs, the breeze had stiffened into a gale, and we were tossed 
about for several hours on the restless waves. Although blow- 
ing rather strong, the wind was favourable, and we had ulti- 
mately a fine run down the Channel ; and I shall never forget 



CHAP. YI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 123 

with what feelings I gazed upon the distant blue mountains of 
dear old England, as they now appeared to be rapidly receding 
from our view. From the peculiar nature of our Mission, and 
the character of the country to which we were going, we could 
scarcely indulge the hope of ever again beholding our native 
land. But our confidence was in God ; and dear to us as were 
our country and friends, the cause of Christ was dearer still. 
The following lines, written by the late Eev. Eobert Newstead, 
and handed to me by my honoured father just before I left 
home, are expressive of my feelings at that trying moment : — 

FAREWELL TO ENGLAND. 

ec England, farewell ! a happier land than thee 
I have not seen, nor e'er expect to see ; 
So fair thy beauties, and thy faults so few ; 
So sweet thy comforts, and thy sons so true. 
There mighty rivers roll their ample tide, 
There fruitful rills adorn the green vale side ; 
Majestic rocks, for ornament aud shield, 
And graceful furrows, which full plenty yield. 
Thou fairest land of my nativity, 
I bless the Hand that cast my lot in thee. 
I love thy temples, and thy God adore, 
Who made my cup of bliss in thee run o'er. 
I love thy happy myriads who embrace 
The joyful tidings of a Saviour's grace ; 
And thou hast those who twine around my heart, 
From whom 't was only less than death to part. 
But God has called, and I must speed away, 
In other lands to point the living way, 
Which leads to fairer climes, to heaven $ eternal day. : 



.1 



We soon found ourselves tossing on the wide ocean, endea- 
vouring to trust in Him who said, " Go ye therefore, and teach 
all nations, baptizing them in the name of the Father, and of 
the Son, and of the Holy Ghost : teaching them to observe all 
things whatsoever I have commanded you: and, lo, I am with 
youalway, even unto the end of the world." (Matt, xxviii. 19, 20. 

We were favoured with a " prosperous voyage by the will of 
God;" and when we had become in some measure accustomed 
to the sea, we enjoyed the fine weather with which we were 



124 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

favoured, and especially the beautiful moonlight nights, during 
which we paced the deck of the vessel for many an hour, con- 
templating not only the grandeur of the ocean, but the great 
work which was before us, and lifting up our hearts in prayer to 
God for His guidance and blessing. On the evening of the 
16th, we beheld the distant blue mountains of Portugal, gilded 
by the departing rays of the setting sun ; and on the 3rd of 
March we had a fine view of the celebrated Peak of Tenerilfe, 
rearing its lofty head above the clouds which floated around it. 
On the 9th we passed Cape Verd and the island of Goree, 
which we saw at a distance; and on the morning of Thursday, 
the 10th, we took a Negro pilot on board from Bird Island, 
entered the mouth of the Gambia, and in a few hours came to 
anchor off St. Mary's, with the coast of Africa stretching itself 
before our view. 

It was on the afternoon of a beautiful day for the tropics, 
although the sun poured down his fiery rays upon us, that we 
stood upon the deck of the "Amelia," as she rode at anchor 
before the neat little town of Bat hurst, on the island of St. 
Mary. While the sailors were preparing the boats for our 
landing, I observed a number of Negroes assembling on the 
beach, and watching our movements with apparent interest. 
These were natives connected with the Mission, who had heard 
that a Missionary and his wife were on board the brig from 
England ; and such was their anxiety to welcome our arrival, 
that several of them actually plunged into the water to meet the 
boat as it approached the laud ; and they carried us on 
shore in triumph in their arms. This they did to express their 
joy at our arrival, as well as to save us from being wet with the 
surge which was dashing violently against the sandy beach. 
We had no sooner set our feet on the shores of Africa than we 
were surrounded with a large concourse of natives, some of 
whom had received the Gospel at the hands of former Mission- 
aries, — those dear men of God, some of whom had fallen a 
sacrifice to the climate at an early period of their labours. The 
people wept for joy at our arrival. They kissed onr hands 
again and again ; and, bedewing them with their tears, ex- 
claimed, " Tank God ! Tank God ! Mr. Marshall die ; but God 



W~\ 



CHAP. VI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 125 

send us nuder Minister." With some difficulty we passed 
through the crowd, and were conducted to the residence of 
Charles Grant, Esq.,* a respectable merchant, to whom we had 
letters of introduction from the Rev. Dr. Townley, one of our 
General Secretaries. Mr. Grant received us with much cordi- 
ality and kindness, and at once invited us to make his house 
our home till the Mission-House should be prepared for our 
reception. JAfter dinner we had an opportunity, at family 
worship, of returning our sincere thanks to Almighty God for 
having brought us in peace and safety across the mighty deep 
to the appointed scene of our missionary labours. 

On the morning after our arrival in Africa we were surprised 
and delighted with all we beheld ; scenes of great variety and 
interest constantly arresting our attention. Every thing appeared 
strange and new, and totally unlike what we had been accus- 
tomed to in our native land. The houses, having no glass 
windows, and constructed without either fire-places or chim- 
neys ; black servants, who were bustling about with apparent 
intelligence, and in great numbers ; the frail texture and peculiar 
shape of the native huts, — were all objects of singular curiosity ; 
while the beautiful scenery, enriched by the luxuriant branches 
of the majestic palm and cocoa-nut trees, gracefully waving in 
the wind, excited our admiration, and prompted us to lift our 
hearts in gratitude and praise to that Being whose power and 
beneficence were so profusely displayed in the works of nature 
around us. 

After breakfast we gladly accepted the kind offer of Mr. Grant 
to walk with us as far as the Mission-House. As we passed 
along the outskirts of the town new objects arrested our atten- 

* This kind-hearted Christian gentleman was for many years connected 
with the Gamhia settlements ; and every surviving Missionary who laboured 
there during that period will unite with me in a respectful tribute to his 
memory as the Missionary s friend. His counsel and his kindness, in times 
of trial and affliction, were above all praise. Never shall I forget the kind 
attentions of dear Mr. Grant to me and mine, and his patient watching9 over 
the bed of sickness, when almost all hope of life was taken away, and the 
comfort which it afforded in a land of strangers. Finding his health much 
impaired by the climate, he returned to Europe, and peacefully finished his 
course in Scotland, in the year 1848. 



126 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

tion at every turn ; the most striking of which was an African 
market. Under a large thatched shed, which served to screen 
them from the piercing rays of the sun, were squatted upon the 
ground two or three hundred natives, men, women, and child- 
ren, half naked, engaged in various kinds of traffic. Fruit and 
vegetables, in great variety, were exposed for sale ; among 
which I observed rice, corn, yams, oranges, bananas, papaws, 
mango-plums, and ground-nuts, besides beef, pork, fowls, and 
eggs. These articles were arranged in small lots with consider- 
able taste, and placed on mats spread upon the ground. The 
adjoining beach was covered with canoes, chiefly belonging to 
the Mandingo traders, who had brought many of these com- 
modities across the river from the main land. People from the 
town were constantly coming and going; and the noise occa- 
sioned by the loud and boisterous conversation of the natives 
was literally deafening. The scene altogether baffles descrip- 
tion. It forcibly reminded me of the confusion of tongues at 
the building of the tower of Babel ; for I was informed that the 
persons comprising this heterogeneous mass of human beings 
were actually conversing in more than a dozen different lan- 
guages. 

On turning the corner, from the square in front of the 
barracks, to enter one of the streets in the back part of the 
town, Mrs. Moister observed, " The house before us, with the 
verandah in front, surrounded by native huts, stands in a nice 
situation. tc I am glad you think so," said Mr. Grant ; " for 
it is to be your residence ; it is the Mission-House." We soon 
entered the yard, and at the foot of the steps leading to the 
dwelling grew a beautiful wild flower, a kind of jessamine. 
" There," said T, " that little flower seems to smile upon us, and 
to welcome our arrival. If I were inclined to be superstitious, 
I should say it is a good omen." " Let us take it for a good 
omen, at any rate," said Mrs. Moister; "but let us not forget, 
at the same time, that its very situation shows that the hand of 
death has been here ; for had not the house been unoccupied for 
several months, the pretty little intruder could not have retained 
its place overhanging the steps." In the interior of the house 
every thing wore a gloomy aspect, and we were naturally led to 



CHAP VI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 127 

speak of the fate of poor Mr. and Mrs. Marshall. While thus 
engaged, a feeling of sadness stole over our spirits at the thought 
that we also might soon be laid in the silent dust by the side of 
those dear servants of God who had so nobly fallen in the work 
of their Divine Master in this unhealthy climate. We strove to 
suppress this melancholy train of thought, changed the subject 
of conversation, and lifted up our hearts in silent prayer to God 
for His protection and blessing. After giving directions to the 
persons engaged in cleaning and whitewashing the house, we 
returned with Mr. Grant to his residence, where we spent the 
remainder of the day. 

Having called upon Lieutenant-Governor Kendal, to pay our 
respects, and to show my credentials, his Excellency not only 
received us most cordially, but kindly invited us to dine with 
him in the evening, in company with a select party of merchants 
and officers. Considering all the circumstances of the case, we 
felt it to be our duty to comply with this invitation. On arriv- 
ing at the Government-House, at the appointed time, we met 
with a cordial welcome from all present ; and whilst surrounded 
with much that was not altogether congenial to our tastes and 
feelings, we were careful not to lose sight of our character and 
position. In the course of the evening, when required to 
acknowledge some compliment paid to myself and to the Mis- 
sionary Society with which I was connected, I embraced the 
opportunity of announcing, most distinctly, the object of my 
Mission, and of soliciting the co-operation of all who felt an 
interest in the welfare of Africa. After a few hours spent in 
rational and interesting conversation, we retired early ; and I 
thus obtained a vantage ground in civil society at St. Mary's, 
which, by the blessing of God, I never sacrificed. It may be 
proper to add here that, although I had frequently occasion to 
speak in the language of admonition and reproof, from the low 
state of morals which prevailed in the colony, the European 
residents at the Gambia always contributed liberally towards the 
support of the Mission, and regarded us personally with marked 
consideration and respect, during the entire period of our 
residence among them. 

The first Sabbath we spent in Africa was a day never to be 



1*2 S PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

forgotten. At morning dawn the native prayer-meeting was 
held, in which public thanks were presented to Almighty God 
for our safe arrival, and His special blessing was implored upon 
our future labours. In the forenoon I read prayers, and opened 
my commission by preaching from that delightful text, " This 
is a faithful saying, and worthy of all acceptation, that Christ 
Jesus came into the world to save sinners." (1 Tim. i. 15.) 
The people heard with marked attention, and the appearance of 
the congregation was truly pleasing. It afforded an interesting 
proof that the labours of my revered predecessors had not been 
in vain, though some of them had been called hence at an early 
period after their arrival. The Xegroes who had been brought 
to a knowledge of the truth, both male and female, together 
with their children, appeared in the house of God neatly clothed, 
and, in their general aspect, they presented a striking contrast 
to their sable brethren who still remained in heathen darkness. 
They sang the praises of God most delightfully, and the im- 
pression made upon our minds by the first public service in 
which we worshipped with this people, was of a very pleasing 
character. Another service in the evening, conducted partly in 
the language of the natives, by the aid of an interpreter, and 
partly in English, closed the exercises of this memorable day. 

On examining into the state of the Mission, I was happy to 
find that the few members who had been united in church- 
fellowship, about forty in number, had been kept together by 
the native Exhorters, since the death of Mr. Marshall ; and that 
whilst they had been left as sheep without a shepherd, their 
meetings for prayer and supplication had been regularly held in 
the chapel from week to week, in confident expectation that 
God in His providence would remember them in mercy, 
and dispose their friends in England to send them another 
Missionary. 

On becoming in some measure settled in our new and interest- 
ing sphere of labour, the arrangement for our weekly services in 
the chapel at Bathurst was nearly as follows : — Every Sabbath 
morning I read prayers and preached in English, for the benefit 
of the European residents and intelligent persons of colour, who 
used to attend our chapel in considerable numbers. In the 



CHAP. VI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 129 

afternoon we held a Sabbath school for both children and adults. 
On the Sabbath evening I delivered a short discourse in English, 
which was afterwards repeated in Jalloff by one of the native 
exhorters. For this purpose we generally fixed upon a subject 
beforehand, and made it a matter of special conversation and 
study. On Wednesday night I preached by an interpreter, 
every sentence being rendered into Jalloff as it was advanced. 
On other evenings of the week we had prayer-meetings and 
class-meetings, in which the English, Jalloff, or Mandingo lan- 
guage was used, according to circumstances. The congregations 
were generally good, and a Divine influence frequently rested 
upon the people. 

I had not laboured long before several natives were awakened 
to a sense of their danger, and brought to a saving knowledge of 
the truth. Two new classes were formed, and the number of 
members united in church-fellowship was more than doubled. 
I have sometimes observed the Negroes, while passing the chapel 
on the Sabbath, with loads on their heads, attracted by the 
singing ; some of whom have halted, put down their burdens, 
listened, entered, and ultimately embraced the Gospel with all 
their hearts. At an early period of our residence in Africa, we 
were moreover much encouraged by witnessing the happy and 
triumphant death of two or three of the converted natives, who 
died in the faith and hope of the Gospel. Thus were we cheered 
and graciously supported in the prosecution of our beloved 
work, having good reason to hope that our labour was not in 
vain in the Lord. 

But the most delightful and interesting part of our mis- 
sionary labour was that of training up the children in the know- 
ledge and love of God. Erom the beginning we had felt the 
importance of this department of the work, and we had not been 
many days in Africa before we set about it in good earnest, 
though we had many difficulties to contend with. 

There had formerly been a Mission school at St. Mary's ; 
but it was given up on the death of the Missionary ; and the 
coloured young man who had been engaged as teacher had 
obtained other employment. I was about to secure his services 
again, however, when a messenger came and said, " Eobert is 

K 



130 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

sick." I went to see him. He was in a high fa in a 

happy state of mind. The next day the messenger carce again, 
and said, " Robert is dead ! " So nncertain is human 1:: 
Western Africa ! As there was no other person in the colony 
suitable for a teacher, whose services were available, we were 
obliged to undertake the instruction of the children om 
addition to our other duties ; but this did not discourage as, 
as we were yet young and in good health, and had gone out 
expecting and intending to labour with all our might. We 
therefore collected the children, and opened the school at once. 
I took charge of the boys, and Mrs. Moister taught the girls. 
The bell was rung every rooming at six o'clock, and the school 
continued, with a short interval for breakfast, till two in the 
afternoon. By this arrangement, we got something done before 
the heat of the day was fairly set in, which we soon found 
rendered both scholars and teachers incapable of close 
application. 

I rejoice to say, that our humble labours among these dear 
African children were not in vain. Notwithstanding the state- 
ments which we had sometimes heard to their disparagement, we 
found them capable of receiving instruction ; and many of them 
learned to read, write, and cipher very nicely. They could also 
sing many beautiful little hymns, and repeat the ,; Conference 
Catechisms," both in English and in JailofT ; for we had by 
this time succeeded in translating this excellent little work into 
the native language of the people, as well as some portions of 
the sacred Scriptures. When they first entered the school, 
many of the children were totally destitute of raiment ; bat n s 
clothed them with the garments which our friends in England 
had given us for the purpose. Several of the girls soon learned 
to sew, as well as to read and write; and the school short! 
presented a most interesting appearance, being attended by 
nearly a hundred little black children. 

From the beginning, the grand object we uniformly sought 
to accomplish, in reference to these dear little ones, was to 
lead them to Christ ; and we were therefore delighted beyond 
measure to observe evidences of a work of grace on the hearts 
of several of our youthful charge. This was more particularly 



CHAP. VI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 131 

the case with five or six boys and girls, whom we had taken to 
live with us at the Mission-House. Some of these were poor 
orphans, and they were all more or less destitute. They were 
employed in various domestic duties in the intervals of school 
hours ; and they required the constant exercise of patience and 
perseverance on our part ; but, on the whole, they gave us great 
satisfaction. 

One night, some time after we had retired to rest, we heard a 
noise in the children's room, which was some distance from our 
own. We approached the door, and listened; and with 
peculiar feelings ascertained that it was the voice of prayer. 
These dear African children were holding their own little 
prayer-meeting before they retired to rest. The eldest girl, 
whose name was Matty, appeared to be conducting the exer- 
cises. She first prayed herself in broken English, and then 
called upon John, who said, "Matty, me no sabby pray 
English." "Then pray in Jalloff," said Matty; " God'knows 
every language." He prayed in Jalloff. She then called upon 
Petty, who also prayed in Jalloff. The next boy on whom she 
called was Gabriel, who replied, "Matty, me no sabby pray 
English ; me no sabby pray Jalloff." M Then," said Matty, 
"say, c Our Father. 5 " The poor boy repeated the Lord's 
Prayer in a solemn tone, after which the juvenile prayer-meeting 
was concluded ; and we returned to our room unobserved, 
thanking God in our hearts that He had thus begun to work 
upon the minds of our dear Negro children ; for they were 
evidently sincere in what they did. 

Our adult school on Sabbath afternoons also afforded us 
great encouragement. It was a most interesting sight to 
behold a number of converted natives, and others far advanced 
in life, poring over the sacred volume ; and, with considerable 
difficulty, spelling out words whereby they might be saved. 
Some, of course, entirely failed in their attempts, complaining 
that their " mouths were now too hard, 55 and resolving to be 
more than ever careful to afford their children an opportunity of 
learning while their " mouths were soft, 55 and able to pronounce 
the difficult English words. Others succeeded admirably, and 
had cause to bless God in the evening of life that they were 



132 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

able to peruse, for themselves, the records of eternal truth. 
Among these was a poor old Negro woman, with a head as 
white as wool, who learned to read easy portions of Scriptures 
when she was upwards of sixty years of age. I shall never 
forget how she rejoiced when she first made out the word 
"Jesus." With a countenance radiant with holy joy she 
exclaimed, " my dear Minister, I can read the name of my 
Saviour ! " 

The various rites and ceremonies of the people among whom 
our lot was cast, soon became matters of curious observation 
and inquiry. We had not been long in Africa, when our atten- 
tion was attracted by a large concourse of people passing the 
Mission-House with singing and music. We were informed, on 
inquiry, that it was a marriage procession. A Mandingo or 
Jalloff young man, after paying the stipulated price of his bride 
to her parents, conducts her to his own hut, accompanied by a 
number of their friends, with music, singing, dancing, clapping 
of hands, kc. } where the night is spent in drinking, feasting, 
and revelling, without any religious service whatever. What a 
painful exhibition of human depravity is here presented to our 
view ! On witnessing the barbarous and iniquitous practices of 
these deluded heathens, how powerfully were our minds 
impressed with the fact, that " God is not in all their 
thoughts! " 

The birth of a child in an African family is an event attended 
not only with much merriment and great rejoicing, but by the 
observance of various superstitious rites and ceremonies. 
Instead of being carefully nursed, and nicely dressed, as in 
England, the poor little stranger is first held up by the feet 
and severely shaken, to make it " stand good," as they say; and 
then laid upon a goat's skin spread upon the floor, with a piece 
of native cloth thrown lightly over it, to preserve it from the 
stings of the mosquitoes. Among most of the tribes, when tlie 
infant is a few weeks old, it has to undergo the cruel and 
painful operation of tattooing, in which deep incisions are made 
i;i the flesh with a knife, generally on both cheeks, and on each 
side of the forehead. The scars thus made continue through 
life; and clearly denote, by their number and form, the parti- 



CHAP. VI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 133 

cular tribe to which the individual belongs. While young, the 
children are generally carried on the back of the mother or 
nurse, and scarcely ever in the amis. It is quite common to 
see women pursuing their ordinary work about the house, or 
in the field, with their children tied on their backs ; and, owing 
to this careless method of nursing, the poor little creatures fre- 
quently receive such injuries in their legs, that they remain 
crippled as long as they live. But the worst feature in the 
circumstances of African children is their bondage. Most of 
them are bom slaves ; and those who are nominally free when 
they come into the world, are always liable to be torn from 
their friends and home ; and doomed to drag out a miserable 
existence as slaves about the establishment of their masters, or 
in a foreign land, without any hope of freedom, or probability 
of escape. 

One day we witnessed a native funeral. As the procession, 
if such it may be designated, was passing the Mission-House, I 
called Mrs. Moister to come and see the strange spectacle. No 
coffin concealed the loathsome corpse. It was merely laid upon 
a few pieces of bamboo cane, fastened together in the form of a 
bier, partially covered with a piece of native cloth, leaving the 
head and feet entirely exposed, and the outline of the whole 
body distinctly visible. The bearers carried the corpse shoulder 
high, and proceeded towards the place of burial at a running 
pace. A considerable number of people followed, without the 
least attention to order or regularity ; some of whom carried 
muskets, which they fired into the air at intervals, to drive 
away wicked spirits, which they suppose to be hovering about 
on these occasions. As soon as any one dies, the people light a 
fire in the hut, with the same object in view, having a strange 
notion that evil spirits cannot endure smoke ; and that if Satan 
comes in search of the soul of the departed, he will thus be 
foiled in his attempts to seize upon his prey. Several persons, 
chiefly females, attend native funerals for the purpose of mourn- 
ing and lamentation. They sometimes howl in a most dreadful 
manner; and chant, in a doleful tone, the supposed excellencies 
of the dead. On returning from the funeral they make a great 
feast, sometimes killing and cooking an ox ; and then spend the 



134 PAILT I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

whole night in drinking, feasting, drumming, and dancing, in a 
manner shocking to contemplate. They have also a custom of 
making feasts for the dead, long after the funeral ceremonies 
have terminated. On these occasions, they carry portions of 
food to the grave of the deceased ; and leave them there with 
the foolish idea that the departed spirit returns, in the night, to 
partake of them. Foolish and ridiculous as these practices may 
appear, they are innocent and harmless compared with the 
horrid funeral rites and ceremonies observed by the pagan tribes 
farther down the coast. There, as observed in another chapter, 
hundreds of human beings are sometimes sacrificed in honour 
of distinguished individuals, when they die, from a strange 
notion that, in the world of spirits, they will be attended by all 
who are thus cruelly put to death. 

It is a pleasing fact, however, that the converted natives, in 
connexion with our Mission stations in "Western Africa, soon 
learn the forms and usages of civilized life. They conduct their 
funerals with a solemnity and seriousness suited to the occasion. 
They not only make use of coffins, and proceed with the 
remains of their departed friends to the " house appointed for 
all living," with order and decorum ; but they also listen with 
devout attention to any address which may be given, and to the 
funeral service, which we invariably read on such occasions. 
The native Africans are, nevertheless, remarkable for excessive 
grief, when bereaved of their friends ; and I have frequently had 
occasion to remonstrate with them on this subject, and to 
remind them of that eternity of bliss which awaits those who 
die in the faith of the Gospel, and that Christian people should 
sorrow not as those who have no hope. 

Soon after our arrival in Africa, I was called upon to officiate 
at the funeral of one of our own people ; and I had thus an oppor- 
tunity for the first time of visiting the burial-ground. The 
cemetery of St. Mary's is situated about a mile from the town 
of Bathurst, adjoining an extensive sandy beach, which is 
washed by the waters of the Gambia. The place was in a wild 
and neglected state, being without any kind of fence or railing, 
and all grown over with weeds and bushes. The grave of my 
revered predecessor was pointed out to me. It was distin- 



CHAP. VI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 135 

guished by a plain pile of brick and mortar, without any stone 
or inscription. I sought in vain, however, for the graves of Mr. 
Bell and others, there being no person present acquainted with 
their locality. I saw some splendid monuments which had 
been erected to perpetuate the fame of Governors, Captains, and 
merchants, who had found a grave in African soil ; and I could 
not but regret that no tablet had been put up to preserve the 
names, and show the resting place, of those who had fallen in 
the service of the " King of kings, and Lord of lords." But 
I remembered with pleasure that these dear departed servants of 
Christ had more enduring monuments of their zeal and fidelity, 
in the persons of those who had been brought to a knowledge 
of the truth through their instrumentality. I thought also of 
the probability that I myself might soon find a resting-place in 
this desolate spot ; and after musing for some time, in a some- 
what melancholy train of reflection, I endeavoured to lift up my 
heart in prayer to God for His protection and blessing ; and 
returned home fully resolved to " work while it is day ; for the 
night cometh when no man can work." 

Amoug the pagan and Mohammedan tribes around us we could 
find nothing deserving the name of education for the young ; 
the only children taught to read being those intended for the 
priesthood. The teacher is generally himself a Priest or a 
Maraboo ; and if he has to travel a journey, he takes his school 
with him. The very idea of a travelling school will, no doubt, 
be somewhat amusing to the youthful reader ; but such is the 
fact. I remember once having a visit from a school of this 
kind. It consisted of about ten or twelve fine little black boys, 
at the head of whom was a learned Maraboo, their teacher. 
They had travelled a distance of several hundred miles ; and as 
they moved forward by short stages, they had been six weeks on 
the road, learning their Arabic lessons at intervals every day. 
Their object in visiting the colony, they said, was to see white 
men and their houses, which they had never before beheld, and 
to purchase a supply of writing paper. Both teacher and 
scholars were much interested with every thing they saw on our 
station. They were surprised and delighted with a view of my 
library, as well as with a musical box, an alarum clock, and 



123 PART I. — WESTERN AFEICA. 

other articles of European manufacture which we showed them. 
Again and again a iiey clapped their hands in joyful astonish- 
ment, exclaiming. :: White man has got a good head; white 
man knov. rs eveeythehom :; V-hoeu we l:ed to them about 

the great God that made them, and Jesus Christ who came 
into the world to save sinners, and made them a few trifling 
presents, they left tie Miss'i::o-H:use. avmareutly w;-l. air.:;.. 

Ai:::: the numerous limeulties under which the first Mis- 
sionaries t: the river Gambia pursue . then use! J labours, it is 

a ple?.sii_: aaot that, as alrea ay state . :_ht te a 

knowledge of the truth through their instrumentality. Among 
the^e were a tew who ultimately rendered imports sea to 

the Mission by taking a pan in the instruction of their fellow 
countrymen in the things pertaining to their peace. As two of 
these, John Cupidon and Pierre Sallah, were employed in the 
work, under my direction, at an early period of our labours 3 a 
brief account of their early life and conversion to God may be 
interesting to the reader: en::;,:.-- as these may regarded 
as specimens tt the manner in which hundreds ethers 

have been turned ;; from darkness tt light, an I from 
of Satan nntt God." 

John Cupidon was born in the island of Gore Gape 

Terd. His parents were shaves raeualy he was net tree 

born. His master, however, observing his fidelity and general 
good conduct, treated him with greater kindness than those 
who are in bondage usually receive. In early life John accom- 
panied his master to England ; anil I have ttten been amused 
with his own simple account of what he saw in " white mans 
country.' 3 Tim splendid nail lings, the fine shop windows, and 
the gay carriages of Lendon filled him with wonder and ielight. 
His visit v, as in the vrinter season ; and one morning when 
he arose he was surprised tt see the ground covered with 
snow, and tie water frozen. He foil never before witnessed 
these phenomena ; and at first -he thought the snow was salt, 
till convinced of his error by tasting the strange white sub- 
stance which lay at his met. Tr.e beaaoiobl transparent ice so 
interested him, that he resolved to take a piece of it home, that 



CHAP. VI. — COMMENCEMENT OP PERSONAL LABOURS. 137 

he might give to his countrymen ocular demonstration of some 
of the wonders of England. Tor this purpose, he carefully 
packed a quantity of ice in his trunk ; but as the ship pro- 
ceeded on her voyage out, the temperature increased ; and John 
one day discovered, to his utter dismay, that his treasure had 
vanished, leaving his clothes well saturated with water, as the 
only recompence for all his trouble. 

Shortly after this voyage, his master retired from business, 
leaving John in the care of Charles Grant, Esq., by whom he 
was taught to read and write, and. under whose guardianship he 
learned the trade of a carpenter. He was afterwards employed 
as a storekeeper; and such were his habits of industry and 
perseverance, that he saved a little money ; and, in the course of 
a few years, with the kind aid of his benefactor, he was enabled 
to remit the price of his ransom to his old master, who was 
living in London, and thus he became a free man. As Mr 
Grant and his family attended the preaching of the Missionaries-, 
John accompanied them ; and ere long became deeply convinced 
of his state and danger as a sinner in the sight of God. He 
continued in great mental distress till the month of May, 1822, 
when he obtained ''peace with God through our Lord Jesus 
Christ," and was enabled to " rejoice in hope of glory. 55 I have 
often heard, him speak, with tears in his eyes, of the great 
change which he experienced, when he was enabled to cast his 
helpless soul by simple faith on the merits of the Kedeemer. 

Being well acquainted with the JallorT language, and having 
made some proficiency in English, John frequently acted as 
interpreter for the Missionaries ; and he manifested much 
earnestness and zeal in these his earliest efforts in the cause of 
God. When he beheld the sad condition of his fellow men, 
who were sitting in darkness and m the shadow of death, his 
heart was moved with feelings of the tenderest sympathy 
towards them ; and he longed to declare unto them more fully 
the love of God in Christ Jesus to a perishing world. This 
laudable feeling the Missionaries encouraged ; and requested 
him to give an occasional word of exhortation in JallorT. Such 
were his attainments in piety, and his progress in the knowledge 
of Divine things, and so evident was the success which had 



138 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

already attended his labours, that he was ultimately considered 
eligible to be wholly employed in the work of teaching and 
preaching the Gospel. He was accordingly recommended to 
the Missionary Committee ; and having been accepted, he was 
employed as an Assistant Missionary, from the time of my 
arrival in Africa. I may further add that by his consistent 
deportment, fervent zeal, and diligence in his work, he con- 
tinued to give the greatest satisfaction to all parties concerned, 
during the whole period of my residence at the Gambia, and 
my connexion with hirudin the work of the Mission. 

Pierre Sallah was born at a considerable native town in 
the interior, between the Gambia and the Senegal. His early 
days were spent in attending his father's cattle; and, being 
born of free parents, he was a stranger to the miseries of slavery 
for several years. His father appears to have been a respectable 
native, and was -sometimes employed in the service of the King 
of the country. On one of these occasions, being sent to a 
neighbouring town to collect the customs or taxes, he took 
his son and -daughter- with him. On arriving at the end of 
their journey, the children left their father for a short time, and 
joined a party of boys and girls who were going into the woods 
to gather wild fruit. After a while, Pierre began to think that 
his father might wa»t him, and proposed that they should all 
return ; but to this the other children did not consent. In 
attempting £o find his way back alone, he lost himself ^in the 
forest; and, in the midst of -his fright and perplexity, he was 
overtaken by three men, and -carried off as a slave. The prac- 
tice of kidnapping was then- so common in that part of the 
country, that the poor boy was quite aware of his fate, and 
wept bitterly at the thought that he should see his father and 
mother no more, but >be banished to a strange land, where 
nothing awaited him bukthe miseries- of perpetual bondage. 

For three days and three nights, Pierre, with several other 
children who had been captured in the same way, was marched 
across the desert, w r ith very little to eat or drink. On arriving 
at a native town on the main land, opposite the island of Goree, 
then a French settlement, he was purchased by a black man for 
a coloured lady residing in the colony ; and, in about a fortnight 



CHAP. VI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOUKS. 139 

afterwards, he was safely lodged in the custody of his mistress. 
Being an active, energetic boy, he was soon afterwards sent to learn 
the business of a stonemason, that his labour might be more pro- 
fitable to his owner when he should arrive at the age of manhood. 

Some time after this, the island of St. Mary's, at the mouth 
of the Gambia, was settled by the English, and there was a 
great demand for masons and carpenters ; in consequence of 
which, a number of slave workmen were sent over from Goree 
by their respective owners. Among these came Pierre Sallah, 
who, with other slaves, attended the Wesleyan chapel, and was 
thus, for the first time, brought under the sound of the Gospel. 
While the Missionary was preaching, the word came with power 
to the young Negro's heart, and he felt miserable on account of 
his sins. Having no longer any confidence in the false religion 
of his country, he burned his greegrees^a.Ti& abandoned the 
foolish Mohammedan superstitions, in which he had been trained 
up from his infancy. He now sought communion with the people 
of God, that he might be directed in the way to heaven. As 
the language of his heart was, " What must I do to be saved P" 
he was exhorted to "believe on the Lord Jesus Christ; " and, 
while seeking in humble prayer to cast his burdened soul on 
Jesus, he obtained a sense of the -favour of God. and went on 
his way rejoicing. From that hour he endeavoured, by all pos- 
sible means, to induce his fellow workmen to forsake their sins, 
and give themselves to the Lord with purpose of heart. 

At this early period of his Christian career, Pierre had a 
severe trial to experience. The work of building at St. Mary's 
being nearly completed, his owner required him to return to 
Goree, where he would be deprived of the means of grace, and 
of the society of those who had been instrumental in his con- 
version. In the fear of the Lord, however, he resolved to obey 
the order without murmuring* Having acquired a little know- 
ledge of reading, the Missionary gave him a copy of the holy 
Scriptures, and commended him to God in prayer, and he 
embarked for Goree. On his arrival, he recommended the 
Gospel by a holy walk and conversation, and by advising his 
fellow slaves to break off their sins and serve the Lord. Un- 
aided and alone, this young disciple soon formed a little meet- 



140 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

ing, for the religious instruction of any who would attend. 
This circumstance gave great umbrage to the people of the 
colony, who were all either Mohammedans or Eoman Catholics. 
Complaints were consequently made about these meetings to 
the French Governor. The youthful offender was brought 
before his Excellency, when he made " a good confession before 
many witnesses ; " but he was strictly forbidden to hold any 
meetings among the slaves in future. 

God, in His providence, soon opened a way for the more 
extensive usefulness of this promising young convert. His case 
was represented to the Missionary Committee in London ; and 
it was stated that if his freedom could be obtained, he might be 
usefully employed as an Assistant Missionary. The funds of 
the Society not being available for such an object, the circum- 
stance w T as mentioned by the Rev. John James, one of the 
General Secretaries, at a Missionary Meeting, in Abbey Street 
Chapel, Dublin, when such an interest was excited that a sub- 
scription for the special object of Pierre's emancipation w T as 
made at once. A little boy was so affected with the account 
which he had heard, that, in the warmth of his juvenile zeal, he 
cried out, " I'll give sixpence ! " This small contribution was 
followed by the cheerful announcement of larger sums, and a 
shower of money literally fell upon the platform, exhibiting such 
a display of missionary zeal and liberality as is seldom surpassed. 
Fifty pounds, the amount required, were soon raised, when a 
rosy son of "green Erin" exclaimed, "Pierre Saltan's freedom 
is purchased with Irish gold, and he shall be an Irishman for 
ever ! " On my arrival at the Gambia, I had to perform the 
pleasing duty of negotiating for the freedom of this intelligent 
Negro slave ; and, by proceeding with care, I accomplished that 
object to the satisfaction of all parties. When I had paid down 
his ransom price, and the necessary documents were executed, I 
informed Pierre that he was now a free man. His eyes over- 
flowed with tears of joy ; and when told who were his benefac- 
tors, he fervently prayed that God might bless them, and reward 
them for their kindness. In after years he often referred with 
grateful emotion to the good white people on the other side of 
the "great salt water," who had manifested such kindness to 



CHAP. VI. — COMMENCEMENT OF PERSONAL LABOURS. 141 

his country in sending the Gospel ; and especially to the people 
of Ireland, who had taken up his case with such characteristic 
zeal and earnestness. When told of the humorous observation 
of one of his friends, that, as his freedom was purchased with 
Irish gold, he should henceforth be an " Irishman," he was 
much amused, and laughed heartily at the idea of his future 
nationality.* 

Pierre Sallah was now placed entirely under my care, and 
resided in a small cottage which I built for him on the Mission 
premises : so that I had an opportunity of directing his studies, 
and was favoured with his assistance in the Mission school. 
His ardent desire to acquire knowledge, and to be usefully 
employed, was a pleasing indication of his future success : and 
such was the affection, diligence, and zeal which characterized 
his humble labours, whilst resident with me at St. Mary's, that 
he greatly endeared himself to me and mine, and to all with 
whom he had to do. 

These first-fruits of native agency in a climate so trying to 
the health of Europeans were hailed with gratitude and joy ; 
and, in future years, they were followed by other pleasing 
instances of native piety and talent consecrated to the service 
of the church, leading us to hope that the regeneration of 
Africa may ultimately be effected, to a large extent, through 
the instrumentality of her own sons. 

* On the 2nd of April, 1849, when, on a missionary deputation to Ireland: 
I had the pleasure of attending a most interesting Missionary Meeting in the 
Centenary Chapel, Dublin. In the course of my address, I made reference 
to the ransom of Pierre Sallah by Irish benevolence, when the Rev. W. 
Stewart rose, and corroborated the facts of the case ; stating that he was 
present at the meeting alluded to, and that he never before beheld such a 
manifestation of Christian sympathy and liberality. The large assembly 
responded heartiiv, and rejoiced that they were permitted to see and hear 
the Missionary who was the instrument of carrying out their benevolent 
design for the more extensive diffusion of the Gospel in Africa, by means of 
native agency, in this instance redeemed from bondage. It may be proper 
to add that after John Cupidon and Pierre Sallah had laboured as Assistant 
Missionaries for seventeen years, they retired from the regular work ; but I 
am unacquainted with the circumstances which led to this step. 



14:2 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA.. 



CHAPTER VII, 

FIRST VOYAGE UP THE BA1BIA. 

Extension of tie Work — Embarkation for Maearthrs Island— James's 
Fort — Albreda — Jillifree — Tankertvall— Spinning and Weaving— 1 - 
tabar — Badarny — The first Tornado — Cower — Macarthrs Island— 
Lieutenant W. Shaw — John Asar — First Sabbath — Mohammedan Fes- 
tival — British Authority— Native Doctors— Second Sabbath — Bateda 
—Return to St. Mary's— Progress of the Mission at Bathurst. 

The friends of Missions generally regard with peculiar in- 
terest the circumstances connected with the first planting of the 
Gospel in the H regions beyond," where the worship of the true 
and living God has never before been established. At an early 
period of my missionary- labours in Western Africa, I was called 
to engage in a work of this kind, the particulars of which I will 
now proceed to relate. I had heard, with feelings of deep 
emotion, of the dark benighted state of the Mohammedan and 
Pagan tribes in the interior of the country ; and I felt an 
anxious desire to extend to them M the light of the glorious 
Gospel of Christ." In the order of Divine Providence, facilities 
were now afforded for such an undertaking, which were net 
available at an earlier period. Through the blessing of God 
upon the labours of His servants, a few native labourers had 
been raised up, who were in course of training to take a part in 
the good work, and were both able and willing to go forth 
and proclaim to their deluded fellow countrymen, in their own 
language, the glad tidings of salvation, with all the advantage 
of constitutions accustomed to the climate, which might screen 
them from the dangers to which European Missionaries are 
exposed. It is true that these native converts were as yet but 
children in knowledge and experience, and required much 
instruction and oversight ; but they were daily improving ; and 
I regarded the fact of their having been providentially raised 
up. in connexion with other circumstances, as a clear provi- 



CHAP. VII. — FIRST VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA, 143 

dential indication that we ought now to extend our labours, if 
possible, to the interior parts of this land of darkness. 

A small British settlement had been already formed at 
Macarthy's Island, for the protection of trade with the natives 
of the upper river ; and I considered this the most favourable 
point at which to commence our labours, inasmuch as we should 
not only have a few liberated Africans to begin with, who under- 
stood something of the English language, but we should also 
have the protection of our own Government, in case of intestine 
commotions among the native tribes. "With these views, and 
under these circumstances, I resolved upon a tour of observa- 
tion, to explore the banks of the Gambia, to visit Macarthy's 
Island, and to make arrangements for the permanent extension 
of our Mission, should suitable openings present themselves. 

Having regulated the affairs of our infant church at St. 
Mary's, renewed the quarterly tickets, administered the sacra- 
ment of the Lord's Supper, and given directions to the Native 
Teachers how to proceed in my absence, on Saturday, the 14th 
of May, 1831, I embarked on board Mr. Grant's sloop bound 
for Macarthy's Island. It was not without a painful struggle 
that I took leave of my dear partner on this occasion, having to 
leave her a comparative stranger in circumstances so new and 
untried, in a climate so unhealthy, neither of us, as yet, having 
had the seasoning fever. It was, however, necessary for her to 
remain behind, not only on account of the danger and difficulty 
of travelling, but especially as her presence and labours were 
required daily in the Mission schools. To this arrangement 
she nobly agreed, notwithstanding the sacrifice which it involved 
on her part. Our dear people felt deeply interested in this 
undertaking, and I was followed by their fervent prayers to God 
for His blessing upon my journey. On contemplating the 
prospect before me, the arduous nature of the undertaking, the 
perils to which I should be exposed from the extreme heat and 
unhealthiness of the climate, and the approaching rains, to say 
nothing of wild beasts and savage men, I felt my mind for a 
short time somewhat depressed ; but, on casting my burden 
upon the Lord, and calling to mind the promised presence of 
my Divine Master, the cloud was dissipated, and I was enabled 



144 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

to say, with the Apostle, " Xone of these tilings move me, 
neither count I my life dear unto myself, so that I might finish 
my course with joy, and the ministry, which I have received of 
the Lord Jesus, to testify of the Gospel of the grace of God." 
(Acts xx. 24.) 

During the night we passed James' Fort, a slave factory in 
ruins, on a small island in the centre of the river. This was a 
celebrated place in times of old, when African merchants traded 
chiefly in the flesh and blood of the poor degraded Negroes. 
It is now quite abandoned, and known only as a favourite 
haunt of owls and bats ; a more legitimate commerce having 
long since taken the place of the slave trade. Just above this 
place, on the northern bank of the river, is Albreda, a small 
settlement long held by the French, and the only possession 
which they claimed in these parts. It seems to have been 
reserved at the time that St. Mary's was given up to the Eng- 
lish, and Goree ceded to the French. The alleged arrangement 
being at variance with the terms of the treaty, it was for a long 
time a subject of considerable annoyance to the English, till the 
matter was compromised between the two Governments, and 
the whole of the Gambia was given up to Great Britain, accord- 
ing to the letter of the original compact. Jillifree is a populous 
Mandingo town in the same neighbourhood, the inhabitants of 
which keep up a constant intercourse, for the purpose of trade 
and commerce, with the European colonists at St. Mary's. 

On Sunday morning I went on shore at Tankerwall, a con- 
siderable native town on the southern bank of the river. Before 
we landed, and as our canoe approached the shore, I observed 
some of the natives climbing the trees, and watching our 
approach with curious interest, as if anxious to ascertain 
whether we were friends or foes. And this is not to be won- 
dered at, as they had known white men visit their country to 
steal away their children ; but they had never before seen a 
Christian Missionary or a white man come with a message of 
peace and good- will. On landing, in company with a trader, 
we soon succeeded in gaining their confidence, however ; and the 
women and children, who had fled at our approach, returned and 
surveyed us with marked curiosity. At length some of the 



CHAP. VII. — FIRST VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 14-5 

children, approached near enough to touch my hand, the white, 
smooth surface of which they examined most minutely. Then 
arose a discussion among them as to whether -the "white man 
was altogether white," or whether " his hands and face only 
were of that complexion." I soon settled the matter by turning 
up my coat sleeve, when they clapped their hands in ecstasy, 
exclaiming, " He is every bit white ; we never saw such a fine 
white man !" On entering the town I found the people pur- 
suing the ordinary avocations of life, in total ignorance of the 
Christian Sabbath. Some were spinning cotton with their 
fingers, without any wheel or other machinery ; and others were 
weaving narrow pieces of cloth, about five inches wide. Their 
mode of weaving was remarkably rude and simple. The looms 
consisted of two upright pieces of wood planted in the ground, 
on the top of which rested a transverse beam, from which the 
slaie was suspended. Beneath this a hole was dug in the 
ground, in which the weaver placed his feet as he worked the 
rude machinery, while he sat upon the earth, and passed the 
shuttle from hand to hand. The warp was not wound round a 
beam, as in the case of an English hand-loom, but extended 
along the ground a distance of several yards, with a weight 
attached to the end, and was drawn up as required. In the 
manufacture of these narrow webs of cloth they frequently use 
at intervals threads of blue cotton, dyed with indigo, grown on 
the spot, and thus produce a striped or check pattern, which is 
both handsome and durable. Bundles of this native cloth, each 
containing a certain number of yards, pass at a current value in 
barter, forming a common medium of exchange in the absence 
of coined money ; and when it is made up for domestic use, the 
narrow pieces are neatly sewed together into the form of large 
shawls or scarfs, called pangs, which they wear loosely thrown 
over their persons, as elsewhere described. 

When the people flocked around me in the streets of Tanker- 
wall, I told them that this was the day which Christians kept 
holy, and on which they met together to worship God, and how 
glad I should be to see the natives of Africa adopting a similar 
practice ; but they smiled at the observation, saving, in their 
own language, " "White man's religion is good for white man, 

L 



146 PART. I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

and black man's religion is good for black man." In the centre 
of the town I observed a rudely-constructed mosque or Moham- 
medan temple. It was built of mud and thatched with grass, 
as were most of the huts in the place. After viewing it both 
inside and out, I requested them to allow me to preach in it ; 
but they soon gave me to understand that their sacred place 
must not be defiled with Christianity. They expressed their 
willingness, however, to hear me where I was standing, under 
an open shed ; and I addressed them at some length in a con- 
versational strain, through an interpreter, on the character and 
works of the great God who made them, and of Jesus Christ 
who came into the world to save sinners. After spending an 
hour or two in this way, T commended the people to God, and 
left them, with the hope that some light had been communi- 
cated to their dark minds. 

On returning on board the vessel, I spent some time in reli- 
gious conversation with the Negro sailors, and attempting to 
teach some of them to read. They were anxious to receive 
instruction ; but I found them rather dull scholars, having 
grown up in perfect heathen darkness. In the afternoon I 
went on shore at another place, called Tentabar, a small town on 
the same side of the river as Tankerwall, but a little higher up. 
Here I had an opportunity of seeing for the first time how per- 
fectly man is reduced to a level with the brute creation by the 
accursed slave trade in this land of darkness. Immediately on 
landing I saw a slave in irons, along with a horse, under an 
open shed, both offered for sale at the same time, and in the 
same place. I had little opportunity of conversing with the 
people here, as they were busily engaged in traffic : I therefore 
returned to the vessel deeply humbled by the specimens of 
degraded humanity which I had beheld during the day, and 
earnestly prayed that the means of religious instruction might 
soon be afforded to this long-neglected people. 

The navigation of the Gambia is somewhat difficult and 
tedious at certain seasons of the year. As we ascend the river, 
we frequently lose the fine sea breeze, so common on the 
coast ; and when it does blow for a while, the dense mangrove 
jungle, which covers the banks on both sides, prevents its 



CHAP. VII. — FIEST VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 147 

acting with full force on the sails of the vessel. This being the 
case, we can seldom keep under weigh after the tide turns ; 
but are obliged to let go the anchor, and wait till the next 
flow. The trading vessels, moreover, make frequent calls to 
traffic with the natives, and to receive and discharge their 
goods at their different branch establishments. This last cir- 
cumstance is rather favourable than otherwise for the Mission- 
ary or the traveller who desires frequent opportunities of inter- 
course with the people, and of surveying the natural scenery of 
this interesting country. In this respect, I was highly 
favoured on my first voyage up the river, as the vessel in which 
I sailed had to call at several places of importance. 

On Monday morning, the 16th, we sailed up a long creek to 
a place called Badamy ; and I had another opportunity of 
going on shore to talk with the natives, while the sloop was 
landing part of her cargo. Here I met with a family of 
coloured persons, who had originally come from the colony, 
and whose ancestors were of the Christian faith ; but they had 
been so long mixed up with the Mohammedans of the interior 
that I could discover no traces of Christianity remaining 
among them, either in their sentiments or practice, except that 
they were a little more intelligent and obliging in their 
manners than the other natives. After conversing with these 
and a few others on the things belonging to their peace, I 
returned to the vessel. We then descended the creek with the 
ebbing tide, and continued our course up the main branch of 
the river. 

In the evening, we were overtaken by the first tornado or 
thunderstorm, which indicated the approach of the rainy 
season. This phenomenon is truly striking, and somewhat 
appalling to one who has never witnessed it before. On this 
occasion, the heavens gathered blackness, the thunder roared in 
fearful peals, and the most vivid flashes of lightning succeeded 
each other in rapid succession. The wind also blew with 
terrific violence from the east, the boat was torn away from 
the stern of the vessel, and we were obliged to come to anchor. 
The storm, though very furious, was of short duration. After 
seeking the boat for some time without success, we weighed 

L 2 



145 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

anchor, and proceeded on our voyage, hoping to recover i 
our return. 

TA T e were not interrupted by any stoppages on the following 

day: but continued to ascend the majestic Gambia, as the 
gentle breeze and the flowing tide favoured our progress, being 
delighted with the scenery which the banks and name 
islands of the river almost constantly presented to our view. 
Native canoes occasionally came alongside of the sloop, manned 
by Jalloffs, who invariably cried out, "Mi ma sugar! Mi ma 
rum ! " " Give me sugar ! Give me rum ! :; But unless they 
had something for barter, we kept on our course, occasionally 
giving them a trifling present, as a handful of sugar, or a little 
tobacco, to be relieved from their perpetual importunity, and at 
the same time to cultivate a friendly spirit. 

On Wednesday the 18th, we anchored off Cower: a large 
native town on the northern bank of the river. While on si 
I was much struck with the degradation to which heathenism 
reduces the female sex in this land of darkness. I saw a 
number of women wading up to the knees in water and mud, 
working with their hoes, some with children on their backs. 
preparing the ground for rice, whilst their husbands were 
lounging at home in idleness and sin. From other observations 
which I made in the course of my travels. I found that most of 
the labour in cultivating the ground, and any other kind of 
drudgery, devolved upon the women and slaves, who are classed 
pretty much in the same category ; and that the men treat their 
wives more as beasts of burden than as companions and equals. 

Hitherto I had found the northern bank ol the Gambia 
inhabited chiefly by Jalloffs. and the southern by Mandingoes : 
but, above this point, the Mandingoes appear to be the sole 
proprietors of the soil on both sides of the river. Small parties 
of wandering Foolas are frequently to be met with, grazing 
their cattle, and removing from place to place, according to the 
state of the pasture ; but as they claim no right in the soil, they 
dwell in the land by mere sufferance, and they frequently pay 
dearly for their accommodation. I felt happy in falling in with 
a party of these simple people, from whom I obtained a supply 
of sour milk, which, when sweetened with sugar or honey, forms 



CHAP. VII.— FIRST VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 149 

a delicious beverage in this sultry climate, where thirst is such a 
constant companion. 

We had a tine breeze all day on Thursday, the 19th ; and, the 
country being more open, it filled, the sails of the vessel, and 
enabled us to keep under weigh for some time against the 
ebbing of the tide. Such was the rapidity of our progress, that 
in the evening we came in sight of Macarthy's Island ; and we 
began to prepare for going on shore. I was charmed with the 
scenery of this part of the river. The sun was just setting 
behind the opposite hills, the air was comparatively cool, and 
the labourers were returning from their farms, which they begin 
to clear and put in order at this season of the year, in antici- 
pation of the approaching rains. We came to anchor at the 
upper end of the island, near to the village of Patiota, where my 
friend Mr. Grant, the owner of the vessel in which I sailed, had 
a branch trading establishment. On landing, I met with a 
kind reception from the people, and obtained a lodging for the 
night in a native hut. Being weary with travelling and 
exposure to the sun, I slept soundly ; having retired to rest 
with a thankful heart for the preserving care of my heavenly 
lather. 

When I awoke the nest morning, I found the sun had 
already risen above the eastern horizon : and the light which 
penetrated through the crevices of the rude door and wattle 
work of the hut, discovered the character of my humble shelter. 
The interior of the building was hung round with greegrees, 
spears, bows and arrows, and other symbols of idolatry, and 
implements of war ; the very sight of which made a peculiar 
impression upon my mind, young and inexperienced as I was 
in the Mission field, forcibly reminding me of the fact that I was 
now in the interior of a heathen country. On leaving my 
humble lodgings, I took a walk by the side of the river ; and 
was led into a train of reflection both painful and pleasing. I 
thought of the moral degradation of all around me ; and felt 
that I was indeed in a land of darkness. I called to mind the 
glorious predictions in reference to the universal spread of the 
Gospel, and the happy time when c; all shall know the Lord, 
from the least even unto the greatest." Tervently did I pray 



150 PAET I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

that my visit to this place might be crowned with the special 
presence and blessing of the great Head of the Church, and 
that this might be the beginning of a new dispensation to this 
people. Whilst I was thus musing as I walked along, to my 
great surprise and delight, I met a white man ! who introduced 
himself to me most courteously. This was Lieutenant W. 
Shaw, a young military officer, the Commandant of the island, 
and the only European resident in the country. He very 
kindly invited me to take up my abode with him in his thatched 
cottage, and to share with him the few comforts which he had 
in the wilderness. With feelings known only to those who have 
met with a fellow countryman in a far distant land, I availed 
myself of his kindness ; and I have reason to indulge the hope 
that my intercourse with this noble-minded young man, under 
circumstances so peculiar, may have been of advantage to him 
in after life ; for he had been blessed with a pious mother, 
whose godly counsel was forcibly brought to his mind by our 
conversation. 

Saturday, the 21st, was spent in visiting a few of the people 
in their huts, and in making observations on the island. In 
the course of my ramble 1 was delighted to meet with a poor 
man, named John Asar, who had learned something of the 
Gospel during his residence at St. Mary's. Although cut off 
from all the means of grace, he still retained a sense of the 
goodness of God ; and had been endeavouring to let his light 
shine before men. He had learned to read a little; and on 
entering his hut I found him with the Bible in his hand. I 
read from the sacred volume ; and we both engaged in prayer. 
The Lord was present with us whilst we were thus bowed at 
His mercy-seat; and I felt encouraged to hope that this 
humble inquirer might be made a blessing to his fellow-country- 
men, when more fully instructed in the things pertaining to the 
kingdom of God. This hope was ultimately realized in his being 
called to preach the Gospel in his simple way. 

Macarthy's Island (the native name of which was Jin -jin -berry) 
is so called in honour of the late Sir Charles Macarthy, by 
whom the small English settlement was first established. It is 
about seven miles long, and two broad ; and its distance from 



CHAP. VII. — PIKST VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 151 

the mouth of the river has been variously estimated at from 
two hundred and fifty to three hundred miles. The original 
native town. Alorocunda, or Holy Town, is inhabited exclusively 
by Mandingoes, and governed by an Alcaid, or Headman, 
according to the native custom. George Town is the name 
of the English settlement, which is so called in honour of the 
King of England. It is defended by a fort, which is built of 
mud ; and garrisoned by a detachment of black soldiers, under 
the direction of a commandant, for the protection of the trade 
of the river. The town is inhabited chiefly by discharged 
soldiers and liberated Africans. There are several stores, both 
at George Town and Tatiota, belonging to merchants who reside 
at St. Mary's. These are placed under the care of respectable 
and trustworthy natives , and a considerable trade is earned 
on with the more remote interior ; gold, ivory, hides, and bees'- 
wax being obtained for muskets, powder, beads, and tobacco, 
and a few other articles of European merchandise. The land 
is fertile, and yields a good return, when properly cultivated. 
When the wind blows from the east, the heat is very great ; 
the thermometer sometimes rising as high as 120 in the shade; 
the ah' being at the same time peculiarly dry and parching. 
I have no doubt, however, that this will prove a much more 
healthy locality than the settlements on the coast, as the land 
is more elevated, and the country not so swampy. Altogether 
it appeared a very eligible situation for a Mission station, being 
not only under the protection of the British Government, but 
also central to a dense population inhabiting the surrounding 
districts. 

Sunday, the 22nd, was a day long to be remembered. The 
bugle at the fort was sounded at the hour appointed for 
Divine service, and the soldiers were marched up to the place 
of meeting in regular order; who, together with most of the 
people of the town, composed a numerous congregation, to 
whom I was enabled to preach the Gospel with freedom and 
power. The marked attention with which the people heard 
the word, and the deep feeling which seemed to pervade the 
whole assembly, led me to indulge the hope that some lasting 
good was effected, and that this might be the beginning of 



152 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

better days in that place. The evening service was also very 
encouraging, and we felt it good to wait upon the Lord. At 
the close of the public worship, I invited those who were 
determined to abandon all sin, and to give their hearts to God, 
to remain a short time, that I might, in familiar conversation, 
expound unto them " the way of God more perfectly " To my 
great surprise not one of the assembly retired. Aware, how- 
ever, that most of them had hitherto been indulging in 
heathenish rites and ceremonies, as well as in acts of gross 
immorality, I did not see my way clear to form a class at that 
time, feeling convinced that, however penitent many of them 
might be for the moment, they would require much instruction 
before they could be admitted even as candidates for church 
membership. Knowing also that I should soon have to leave 
them for the present, I could only address them for a few minutes 
in a general way, on the nature and importance of personal 
religion, and so close the meeting with fervent prayer to God 
for His blessing on their souls. 

Monday, the 23rd, was the day on which a great Mohammedan 
festival was celebrated at Macarthy's Island. A Maraboo, or 
Priest, of distinguished eminence among his people, had come 
from a distant place to conduct the ceremony. At an early 
hour in the morning they commenced their worship under a 
large sacred tree, not far from the fort. The people spread 
their mats on the ground, and strewed them with the leaves 
and flowers of a particular tree. The Priest placed himself in 
the front, with his back to the congregation, which consisted 
of about two hundred persons, and recited several Arabic 
prayers, w T hich they all repeated aloud after him. He then 
went through various gesticulations,, repeatedly bowing and 
prostrating himself upon the ground, being strictly imitated by 
the people in all that he did. Thus they continued their 
exercises for about two hours ; and then returned to Morocunda, 
where they spent the rest of the day, and the whole of the 
night, in feasting, drinking, drumming, dancing, and firing of 
guns, setting the whole place in an uproar. Such was one of 
the many specimens which I witnessed of the religion of the 
false prophet, as practised by this barbarous people. 



CHAP. VII. — PIRST VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 153 

The establishment of British settlements on the coast and 
rivers of Western Africa has not only operated as a check on 
the foreign slave trade, but it has exercised a favourable 
influence over the domestic slavery of the interior, even in 
districts beyond the jurisdiction of English law. In former times 
it was not at all an uncommon occurrence for an individual 
who owed the most trifling debt, or who was guilty of some 
petty misdemeanour, to have his children carried off into 
slavery, by a native Chief or merchant. During my stay at 
Macarthy's Island, a little Jollar boy was seized in this way 
by a party of Mandingoes. A complaint was made to the 
Commandant, who immediately summoned the persons accused 
and the Alcaid of Morocunda to appear before him, to give an 
account of the matter. I was present when the examination 
took place ; and felt deeply interested in the proceedings. The 
Mandingoes appeared very humble and submissive, and denied 
having any knowledge of the circumstances, or participation in 
the affair. As no trace could be found of the real offender, the 
case was allowed to stand over for the time being ; yet I could 
not but feel thankful for the deference paid to British authority, 
whenever it is thought necessary to interfere on behalf of the 
oppressed. 

Another complaint was brought before Lieutenant Shaw, 
shortly afterwards, by a man who had received a serious wound 
in his arm. AVhen he presented himself at the door where we 
were sitting, the blood was flowing copiously from the wound. 
He proceeded to relate that in the course of the morning a 
party of hunters had killed a large elephant, near to the place 
where he was working on his ground, about three miles distant 
from the settlement. After they had taken the ivory tusks and 
all they required, they left the carcass of the animal, and 
proceeded in the chase after other game. Whilst he and 
several others, according to custom, began helping themselves 
to the elephant beef, a party of Mandingoes came upon them, 
to drive them off ; one of whom struck him with his cutlass 
on the arm, and inflicted the wound which he showed us. The 
Commandant immediately sent a number of soldiers in search 
of the offender; but he had fled beyond the boundaries of 



154 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

the settlement, and could not be found. The Alcaid promised, 

however, to deliver him up to justice, should he venture to 
make his appearance at the native town on the island. 

During my stay at Macarthy's Island, I ha .1 frequent oppor- 
tunities of conversing with Mohammedan Priests, some of whom 
could read Arabic pretty well, and were glad to receive the 
tracts and portions o^i Scripture printed in that language, which 
I carried with me for the purpose of distribution. I spent 
several hours in the open air, one beautiful moonlight night, in 
religious discussion with a company of more intelligent 
Mohammedans. Arguments were produced on both sides: but 
when I was just gaining the victory, as I thought, the natives 
concluded the controversy with their usual evasion, that "white 
man's religion is good foi white man, and black man's religion 
is good for black man/' Notwithstanding this common sub- 
terfuge, however, I have reason to believe that a good impres- 
sion was made upon their minds ; for. before we parted, I 
proposed that we should unite in prayer to Almighty God for 
His Divine guidance blessing. To this they agreed; and I 

shall nor s: ::i forget the feelings of my heart while supplicating 
the throne of the heavenly grace, surrounded by those sable sons 
of Ham, who ha] never before heard the voice of a Christian Mis- 
sionary. The night was calm and serene, the moon shone 
brightly upon us as we were thus bowed before the Lord : and 
when we had finished our devotions, I retired to my humble 
couch, cherishing a pleasing hope that the day was not far 
distant when the light of the blessed Gospel would permanently 
shine upon this dark, benighted people. 

On returning to the residence oi Lieutenant Shaw, after a 
short absence, I found him suffering from an attack of fever ; 
and I could not but feel painfully impressed with the trying- 
situation o: a poor European when seized with illness in the 
interior of Africa, far away from kind friends, medical aid. and 
the ordinary comforts of civilized society. L r nder these cir- 
cumstances a person is induced to give himself up entirely into 
the hands of the natives, and submit to wha r ever they prescribe. 
Such I found to be the case with my friend. He was sur- 
rounded bv a number of old women, who were administering 



CHAP. VII. — FIRST VOYAGE TP THE GAMBIA. 155 

ce bush medicine ;" which appeared to me more likely to kill 
than to cure. Nor was this all ; they had suspended gree- 
grees about his neck, and were actually making him drink 
" greegree water." This nostrum is prepared as follows: — A 
Maraboo, or Priest, is consulted, who prescribes the necessary 
charm, writes it in Arabic on a piece of board ; and the nurse 
in attendance, after washing it off with water into a calabash, 
requires the patient to drink it. They have a superstitious 
notion that this charm will send away the evil spirit, which they 
believe to be the cause of the sickness. I soon dismissed these 
spirit doctors • and administered a little proper medicine to my 
friend, which, with the aid of some good soup and other 
nourishment, which I caused to be prepared for him, soon pro- 
moted his recovery, and in a few days he was convalescent. 
It may not be improper here to remark, that a little practical 
knowledge of medicine is very desirable, if not absolutely neces- 
sary, for a Missionary to Africa ; as he or his family may be 
placed in circumstances of affliction and trial when no proper 
medical aid is at hand ; and he is often applied to in cases of 
sickness by the natives, who take it for granted that he knows 
every thing. 

Having in some measure accomplished the object of my visit 
to Macarthy's Island, by preaching to the people, conversing 
with the most intelligent natives, and collecting information for 
my future guidance, on Thursday, the 2nd of June, I embarked 
on board a small boat on my return to St. Mary's. I was 
obliged thus to hasten my departure in consequence of the near 
approach of the rainy season, which would make travelling diffi- 
cult and uncomfortable, to say nothing of the danger to which, 
as a " new comer," I should be exposed, if overtaken by the 
rains in the interior, before I had passed through the seasoning 
fever. On taking my departure, I was much affected by the 
earnest entreaties of the people that I would visit them again, or 
send them a teacher to instruct them and their children in the 
things of God. Several followed me to the vessel, repeating 
and urging their request ; and I promised if possible to return 
again, and make some provision for their spiritual necessities. 

Y\ e had a fine run down the river during the day. with the 



156 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

wind and tide in our favour. In the evening we saw a large 
elephant lying dead on the northern bank of the river, which 

had been recently killed by the natives. We took a canoe, and 
went to examine it, hoping to find some ivory ; but the huge 
tusks had been taken by the hunters, and, after cutting off one 
of its ears as a curiosity, I returned to the vessel, and con- 
tinned my voyage. 

On Saturday, the 4th, we sailed up a long creek on the 
northern side of the river to a place called Bateda, where the 
vessel had to take in corn. Towards evening I went on shore, 
and visited two native towns a considerable distance inland. 
The road led through a forest of lofty trees, in which we saw a 
number of birds of the most beautiful and varied plumage. It 
is remarkable, however, that the pretty birds of Africa never 
sing in a connected and melodious manner like the singing 
birds of Europe. Some whistle and chirp, and others give 
notes of the most harsh and discordant sound, especially those 
of the parrot tribe, which were flying about in large coveys, and 
making a deafening noise. On entering the first town we came 
to a deep well, from which, a man was drawing water. I was 
thirsty, and he cheerfully handed me his calabash to take a 
drink ; but the water was rather muddy, and a little sufficed. 
At the same place I observed several Maraboos, with theii 
tablets in their hands, writing Arabic. Their mode of writing 
on these tablets is not always the same. Sometimes they use a 
reed pen and ink ; and, when necessary, the writing can be 
washed off with water. At other times the board is covered 
with a thin coat of bees' -wax, and the characters are traced 
with an iron style. In this case the writing can be erased by 
friction with any smooth and hard substance. T\ hen the natives 
write on paper, they invariably use separate leaves, never attempt- 
ing anything like book-binding. Near this town I visited the 
ruins of a large building, which appeared to have been a temple, 
the object and history of which I could not ascertain. What- 
ever may have been the character and nature of the erection, 
nothing now remains but a part of the foundation and a few 
broken pillars. 

After walking about three miles further, we came to the 



CHAP. VII. — FIRST VOYAGE EP THE GAMBIA. lot 

: h appeared to contain a considerable popu- 
lation. TVe now felt tired and hungry, and we were glad to 
find the natives kind and hospitable. They set before ns a 
large bowl of rice and milk, of which we made a hearty meal. 
As night was approaching, we hastened back to the vessel ; 
and from the extreme heat of the day, and the long fatiguing 
walk in which I had indulged, I bad a severe head-ache 
during the night, which was the first I had experienced since I 

ae to Africa. 

On ascending another long creek about this time, I was 
much amused by the playful frolics of a tribe of monkeys, 
which had assembled in the tops of the trees, which were 
interwoven in dense masses over onr heads, forming a kind 
of natural arch. These lively inhabitants of the forest skipped 
from branch to branch, keeping pace with the canoe in which 
we sailed. Sometimes they seemed disposed to dispute our 
passage, chattering and growling in the most menacing tones, 
and even throwing pieces of stick and wild fruit down upon us 
with all their might. It was not till a musket shot or two had 
been fired among them by one of onr party, that these 
impertinent animals were entirely dispersed. 

TVe called at a few more places as we descended the 
river ; and on the morning of Friday, the 10th. I was delighted 
to behold at a distance the neat-looking white houses of the 
town of Bathurst. We reached the place and came to anchor 
in the afternoon ; and I hastened on shore, not without feelings 
of anxiety as to how I should find all at the Mission-House. T 
was truly thankful, however, to find that my dear wife had 
been preserved in good health and spirits; and our hearts 
overflowed with gratitude to God for His preserving care and 
goodness during the month that I had been from home. 

My return to St. Mary's was hailed with joy by our 
people; and I was happy to learn that the religious services, 
as conducted by the native teachers, had been well attended 
curing my absence. The schools had also been kept in ac 
operation, under the superintendence of Mrs. Moister ; 
everything on the station wore such a cheering aspect, that I 



35S PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

had no reason to regret the sacrifice which I had made in under- 
taking this tour of observation. 

I was much amused with the account Mrs. Moister gave me 
of several visits which she had received from parties of natives 
during my absence. They had come from distant parts of the 
country to pay their respects to " sering tatabe" — "the white 
Minister ; " and, finding he was from home, they expressed 
their wish to have an interview with the " white lady." 
When this request was granted, they entered the Mission- 
House, and seated themselves on the floor, around Mrs. Moister, 
who occupied a seat in the centre. She then inquired the 
object of their visit ; and one of her little school-boys, acting as 
interpreter, coolly replied, " They only come to pay you com- 
pliment, Ma'am." At first she thought it a rather coarse kind 
of compliment ; but she soon became used to it. As she was 
the only European female in the country at the time, it required 
some nerve, however, to converse with a number of half-naked 
savages, with their spears and other implements of war in 
their hands. They were generally civil in their behaviour, 
however ; and frequently listened with attention to what was 
said to them on religious subjects, as well as on other topics 
likely to interest them. On their departure from the Mission- 
House these native visitors generally received a small present, 
— a piece of red cloth, a few needles, beads, or other trifling 
articles, with which they were quite pleased ; and, in fact, this 
was the ulterior object of their coming. 

We now proceeded in our missionary work at St. Mary's 
with satisfaction and comfort ; for although we felt the climate 
to be excessively hot, we had hitherto been favoured with good 
health. The progress made by the children in the school was 
truly pleasing; and the results that followed the preaching 
of the Gospel were seen in the additions made to the number 
of those that believed, and excited in our hearts feelings of 
the liveliest gratitude to Almighty God. Our labour was 
sweetened not only by the early fruit which we were thus 
permitted to behold, but also by the continual conviction which 
we felt, that we were in the very place were God would have 



CHAP. VII. — FIRST VOYAGE UP THE GAMBTA. 159 

us to be, and that we should be favoured to see still greater 
prosperity. 

Whilst we regarded the spiritual welfare of the people as the 
prime object of our Mission, we did not lose sight of their 
temporal interests. We felt the importance of giving them 
to understand the truth of the Apostle's declaration, that 
" godliness is profitable unto all things, having promise of 
the life that now is, and of that which is to come." (1 Tim. 
iv. 8.) After the labours of the day, and in the cool of the 
evening, we frequently visited the people in their huts; not 
merely to converse with them on the affairs of their souls, but 
also to offer them such suggestions on their domestic matters 
and social habits, as appeared necessary. They invariably 
received us with the utmost cordiality and kindness, and 
observed our counsel with marked respect. When we called 
upon a few of our people, as we sometimes did, on a Saturday 
evening, we were pleased to find that careful preparation had 
been made for the Sabbath ; and that everything about their 
yards and dwellings wore the aspect of cleanliness and comfort. 
The result of these friendly efforts to elevate our native converts 
in the scale of social life, and to promote the general civilization 
of the people of our charge, was most gratifying. The difference 
between the natives who made a profession of Christianity, and 
those who still remained in heathen darkness, was so marked, 
that a stranger visiting the place could, at once, distinguish 
the character of the people from their personal appearance, and 
the condition of their dwellings. In these respects our people 
set an example to their Mohammedan and Pagan neighbours, 
which told favourably on the best interests of the Mission ; 
inducing many to come and hear for themselves those important 
truths which were producing such visible effects on every hand. 
A few of our native converts were free, but a still larger number 
were poor slaves, who belonged chiefly to the European mer- 
chants resident at Bathurst ; and I gladly embrace this oppor- 
tunity of bearing my testimony to the generally kind and humane 
manner in which they treated their p ople in this colony. 



160 PART I. — WESTERN AFEICA. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

SECOND VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 

Mission jlhy Difficulties — Seasoning Fever — Mandingo War — Restoration 
of Peace — Second Embarkation for Macarthy's Island — Devil's Point 
— Jarmalicuuda — Sabbath — Doma-sang-sang — Music and Dancing — 
Hippopotami — Commencement of Macarthy's Mission — Preaching and 
School — Return — Dean's Island — Native Quarrel — Tentabar — Inci- 
dents of Slavery — Arrival at St. Mary's. 

We cannot expect to prosecute the great Missionary enter- 
prise without having to encounter numerous obstacles. These 
will vary according to the peculiar circumstances of different 
countries. In Western Africa we had no cause to complain of 
actual hostility, on the part of either the colonists or the natives, 
to the object of our Mission. The whole country was open 
before us ; and we could travel where we pleased, and preach 
when w r e pleased, without interruption. The people were every- 
where inclined to be kind and hospitable, and we could generally 
procure what we required without much difficulty. But we 
had, nevertheless, numerous trials to contend with in the prose- 
cution of our work. In addition to the usual prejudices, apathy, 
and indifference, which generally characterize the unenlightened 
heathen of all nations, we had there to contend with two evils, 
which manifested themselves in a peculiarly aggravated form : — 
the one, natural : the other, moral. I allude to the unhealthi- 
ness of the climate, and the propensity of the natives to engage 
in intestine wars. Difficulties, arising from these causes, 
pressed upon us at an early period of our Mission to the 
Gambia, and delayed for a time my second voyage up the river. 

Mrs. Moister was first called to pass through her " seasoning 
fever." The attack commenced on Sunday evening, the 31st 
of July, 1S31. I immediately sent for Dr. Tebbs, the colonial 
physician, who administered the usual remedies, and expressed 
a hope that the result would be favourable. She continued 



CHAP. VIII. SECOND VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 161 

very ill for about a week, after which the fever was subdued 
and she became convalescent. She had repeated attacks of 
fever after this ; and, on one occasion, which I shall never for- 
get, there appeared to be little hope of her recovery ; but, being 
blessed with a good sound constitution, and apparently well 
adapted for the tropics, she endured the climate, on the whole, 
much better than most European females who have been 
engaged in the Mission work in that country. 

My dear partner had only just recovered from her first attack 
of fever, when I was taken ill myself. The symptoms were the 
same in both cases, — -violent headache, pain in the limbs, and 
shivering ague, followed with burning heat through the whole 
system. For a while I struggled against it ; but was obliged 
ultimately to take to my bed, and to call in medical aid. Being 
of a strong and healthy habit, my seasoning fever was very 
severe. It continued without intermission until the fourth day ; 
and, as few survive the fifth day, unless there be a change for 
the better, considerable apprehensions were entertained for my 
safety. Mrs. Moister began to feel anxious ; Dr. Tebbs, and 
my friend Mr. Grant, remained with me almost constantly ; and 
the dear people of my charge held their meetings, night after 
night, for special prayer and supplication, that my life might be 
spared to the church. The circumstance just named was deeply 
affecting to my own mind ; and, being sensible of everything 
which was passing around me, the delightful sound of prayer 
and praise, which was borne along on the midnight breeze from 
the distant place where the meetings were held, seemed to com- 
fort my spirit, and to increase my confidence in God, that He 
would in mercy raise me up again in answer to the intercessions 
of my beloved people. In the afternoon of Sunday, the 21st of 
August, the fever abated, and I began to recover. Thus was I 
mercifully raised, through the interposition of Divine Providence, 
from the very brink of death ; and in a short time I was enabled 
to go in and out before the congregation, in the service of the 
sanctuary. I had to pass through many scenes of affliction 
after this, but none so critical and dangerous. On a retro- 
spective view of the whole, I can recognise and adore the kind 
hand of God ; and I may indeed say, with the poet, — 

M 



162 PART I. — WESTERN" AFRICA. 

cc Oft from the margin of the grave, 
Thou, Lord, hast lifted up my head ; 

Suddeu I found Thee near to save ; 

The fever own'd Thy touch, and fled." 

The rainy season had now fairly set in, and the sickness and 
mortality among all classes, especially Europeans, was truly 
distressing, and fully justified the melancholy accounts which 
we had heard of the unhealthy character of the climate before 
we came to the country. 

There is an old adage which says, fC Misfortunes seldom come 
single-handed." So we found it in Western x\frica at the period 
above mentioned. TVhile yet confined to the chamber of afflic- 
tion, we received the painful intelligence that a Mandingo war 
had broken out on the very borders of our settlement. As this 
painful event materially affected the interests of cur Mission, a 
ew particulars respecting it may with propriety now be given. 

.Tor some time past, the natives of the kingdom of Barra, on 
the northern bank of the Gambia, opposite St. Mary's, had 
manifested a restlessness which excited some apprehensions in 
the minds of the colonists, that they were preparing for an out- 
break. These suspicions appeared afterwards to have been 
well founded ; for they had fortified the town of Tassou, by 
surrounding it with a strong double stockade, and by making 
other warlike preparations. On Monday, the 22nd of August, 
about eight o'clock at night, two Mandingoes came down to 
Tort Billion, a small British fort on Barra Point, directly oppo- 
site Bathurst, across the river, about three miles distant, and 
manifested a disposition to quarrel with the few English settlers 
that resided there. They were arrayed in their war dresses, 
and armed with muskets and cutlasses. They entered the 
canteen at the fort, and demanded rum ; but it was refused, 
because it was past the hour of serving. One of the men fired 
his musket at the spirit-vendor ; after which they both disap- 
peared, running off in the direction of the native town from 
which they came. 

The officer in charge of the fort, believing that there was 
some wicked design in all this, and that the natives were plan- 
ning mischief, immediately fired an alarm-gun. This was dis- 



CHAP. VIII. — SECOND VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 163 

tinctly heard in St. Mary's, and the Governor dispatched an 
officer with a party of soldiers forthwith, to protect Fort Bnllon. 
These were accompanied by a number of seamen, Captains of 
vessels, and other persons, who volunteered their services on the 
occasion. On arriving at Barra Point, and hearing of the out- 
rage which had been committed by the two Mandingoes, they 
marched up at once to Yassou, the residence of the King, and 
incautiously commenced firing upon the town, although they 
saw that it was in a position of complete defence. They had 
no sooner done this, than the natives poured out upon them 
like a hive of bees, being evidently prepared for the attack. 
The few English found it necessary to retire to the fort, having 
already lost some of their number. They were hotly pursued 
by the Mandingoes ; and so unequal was the struggle, that the 
fort was ultimately abandoned, and the whole of the colonists 
made for the boats. Those who succeeded in reaching them 
put off from the shore, and made their escape; but several 
failed, and were massacred on the beach by the natives, who 
pursued them in overpowering numbers into the deep waters. 

All this occurred during the night ; and the news which 
reached St. Mary's the next morning, produced the greatest 
consternation and dismay. Wives were heard weeping and 
lamenting the loss of their husbands; and parents were 
.anxiously inquiring for those of their children who were miss- 
ing ; presenting altogether such a scene of misery as I hope 
never again to witness. Among those who fell in this contest, 
was the Captain of an English vessel just arrived from Liver- 
pool, whom the natives had mistaken for the Governor. On 
finding his body afterwards among the slain, they cut off his 
head, and erected it upon a pole as a monument of their cruel 
victory. 

Not to detain the reader longer than necessary on a subject 
of such painful interest, I may briefly remark, that the war which 
was thus commenced continued nearly five months ; during 
•which we were kept in a state of constant anxiety, arising from 
the apprehension that the enemy might at any time take 
possession of the island, when our doom would be sealed. The 
circumstances of this war were rendered more alarming by its 

M 2 



164 PAET I. — WESTEBN AFRICA. 

proximity to the settlement ; the scene of action being- only just 
across the river, and within three miles of the Mission-House. 
Night after night we stood on the piazza in front of our 
residence, and beheld the flames ascending from the buildings 
connected with Fort Bullon, on Earra Point, the whole of which 
were destroyed by fire when taken by the enemy. Then 
followed the noise and commotion occasioned by a preparation 
on the part of the English for the defence £>l the colony, and 
for making an attack upon the enemy, so soon as a favourable 
opportunity should offer. All who could carry arms were 
drilled, and enrolled in a militia force ; a strong stockade was 
erected across the island near to Bathurst ; and a new fort 
built in a commanding situation just behind the Mission-House. 
Sentinels were also appointed to keep a strict look-out, and to 
w T alk the streets during the night, that they might give an 
alarm, in case the enemy should attempt to land on the island. 
Mrs. Moister and her school girls were busily employed in making 
sand bags, for the erection of moveable batteries ; and, indeed, 
the services of every person who could render any assistance 
were required in the common defence of the settlement. Even 
the native women and children carried stones for the erection of 
the new fort, singing, and clapping their hands, as they iralked 
along with their loads upon their heads, in a manner which 
showed their enthusiastic and loyal attachment to the British 
Government. 

These warlike preparations were not only unpleasant to our 
feelings, but they greatly obstructed the work of the Mission. Our 
native teachers and male members were nearly all engaged in the 
drill, or on the public works, whilst the schools were irregularly 
attended, and the congregations very small. Amidst the r :oom 
and confusion which prevailed around us. we were not left 
entirely without consolation. There were still remaining on the 
station a few pious devoted natives, chiefly females, who assem- 
bled with us from time to time in the sanctuary, where we 
offered fervent and incessant prayers to Almighty God, that He 
would £J give us help from trouble : " and, by His overruling 
Providence, cause our present difficulties to issue in the 
furtherance of the Gospel. 



CHAP. VIII. — SECOND VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 165 

In the month of November, a French man-of-war came to our 
assistance ; and an attempt was made to land a company of 
soldiers on Barra Point, with a view to re-take the fort ; but 
the enemy were found so strongly intrenched, and so well 
defended, that this object conld not be accomplished without a 
stronger force. Additional aid was therefore called in from 
Senegal, Sierra Leone, and other parts of the coast ; and on the 
10th of December, when the season had become more favour- 
able for military operations, a movement was made for a grand 
attack upon the enemy. In the afternoon, twenty vessels of 
various kinds, including two or three regular men-of-war, 
weighed anchor, and sailed across the river, having on board a 
force of about five hundred men. During the night, shells were 
occasionally thrown from the ships into the Mandingo intrench- 
ments ; and as the scene of action was so near our residence, we 
could distinctly see the flashes of light that attended the 
discharge of the mortars. We took but little rest ; and spent 
the night in alternately watching the proceedings of the hostile 
parties, and in earnest supplications to God that these dis- 
astrous events might speedily be terminated, and be ultimately 
overruled for the greater extension of His kingdom. At day- 
break on the morning of the 11th, the soldiers, under the 
command of Captain Berwick, effected a landing, being pro- 
tected by a heavy fire from H.M.S. "Plumper," after a severe 
contest with the natives, in which considerable loss was sus- 
tained on both sides, in killed and wounded. The roaring of 
cannon, and the firing of musketry, continued during the day ; 
and we, who remained on the island, felt anxious to know the 
result. Towards evening a messenger arrived, bringing the 
intelligence that the Mandingoes had been completely routed, 
and driven into the woods ; and as the smoke cleared away we 
beheld with delight the British flag once more waving over 
Barra Point. There was a general manifestation of joy through- 
out the settlement, as a speedy termination of hostilities might 
now be fairly anticipated. This feeling of joy soon subsided, 
however, and, in some instances gave place to sorrow and 
anguish, as boat after boat came across the river, filled with the 
dead and the wounded. Then were heard again the mourning 



166 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

and lamentations of wives, mothers, and sisters, for those who 
had fallen in the battle. 

Being the only Christian Minister in the country, and having* 
been previously appointed by the Governor to the office of 
acting Colonial Chaplain, in the absence of the Clergyman 
filling that office, I was now employed from morning till night 
in visiting the sick and wounded in the hospital, and in burying 
the dead. In performing these duties. I was favoured with 
some pleasing indications that my labour was not in vain. 
Many a poor dying fellow-countryman, as well as native Africans, 
was I enabled to point to the Lamb of God that taketh away 
the sins of the world. Among these was Lieutenant Leigh, an 
intelligent young officer, who had received a mortal wound in 
his head from a musket ball. During his confinement in the 
house of the colonial surgeon, after he was brought over from 
the scene of conflict, I visited him frequently, and I was 
thankful to find him in a humble, penitent state of mind, 
earnestly desiring religious counsel. His sufferings soon 
terminated in death; and he was called away, meekly trusting 
in the great atonement. Almost his last words were, " 0, tell 
my mother that I had a Minister to pray with me in my dying 
moments." ; On the following Sabbath. I endeavoured to 
console and encourage the few people who remained in the 
settlement, by preaching from Psalm lvii. 1 : c: In the shadow 
of Thy wings will I make my refuge, until these calamities be 
overpast/'' 

Although the Mandingoes were dispersed, and driven from 
their intrenchments on the Point, they were not entirely 
vanquished, as at first supposed. It was soon found that thev 
had only retired to Yassou, the capital of their country, which 
was strongly fortified. On Thursday, the 17th, the British 
troops, having fortified their encampment on the Point, moved 
forward, and made an attack upon Yassou, hoping to reduce 
the enemy to entire submission. In consequence of various 
untoward circumstances, as the want of a sufficient supply of 
ammuniticn, and the breaking down of gun-carriages, this 
attempt proved an entire failure. Xot only were the natives 
vastly superior to the colonists in numbers, but their mode of 



CHAP. Till. — SECOND VOYAGE DP THE GAMBIA. 167 

warfare was peculiar and irregular ; consisting in ambuscades. 
filing from behind the trees, and then scampering off, and 
other stratagems peculiar to savage warfare ; so that the 
English, finding themselves engaged in an unequal struggle, 
were obliged to return to their encampment, with a less of 
eleven killed, and fifty-nine wounded, several of whom died 
shortly afterwards. 

AVhile the English were preparing for a more vigorous 
attack upon Yassou, the Alandingoes came with a flag of truce, 
and requested that the war might cease. In view of our 
feeble state as a colony, surrounded by a dense population 
of warlike savages, the authorities were but too glad to 
comply with the request, if it could be done on honourable 
terms. Conditions of peace were therefore proposed and 
agreed to by both parties; and on Thursday, the 5th of 
January, 1832, Governor Kendal invited me to accompany 
him and his suite, to be present at the signing and ratifica- 
tion of the treaty of peace, at Barra Point. The forms belong- 
ing to our school-room were carried over in boats, and placed 
in order under the '"'palaver tree," for the accommodation of 
the heads of departments ; and after we had waited for some 
time, King Bruma made his appearance, attended by his 
councillors, and about two thousand of his warriors. They 
were ail armed and arrayed in their war dresses : and, as we 
walked along the ranks, they were anxious to shake hands with 
us. The native soldiers seated themselves on the ground, in 
a large circle, of three or four deep : while the King and his 
councillors, and the Governor and his officers, took their places 
on the forms under the tree. It was an imposing sight, never 
to be forgotten. After a few words of explanation, and a 
solemn admonition as to their future conduct, the treaty, which 
had been previously prepared, was read, signed, seaied, and 
delivered. This treaty secured among other things the cession 
to the English of a track of land along the northern bank of 
the river, as well as the giving up of a brass cannon, which it 
wae believed the natives had obtained from a Trench settlement. 
At the close of the ceremony the firing of guns and the loud 
acclamations of the people were expressive of the joy which 



168 PAET I. WESTERN AFK1CA. 

universally prevailed on the occasion. I returned home in the 
evening truly thankful for the termination of this distressing 
war, which had caused the loss of so many lives, and been 
such a serious impediment to our missionary labours. His 
Excellency the Governor soon afterwards appointed a day 
of public thanksgiving, which was well observed by all classes 
of the community. I preached to a large congregation, from 
Psalm xcvii. 1 : " The Lord reigneth : let the earth rejoice : 
let the multitude of the isles be glad thereof." 

Peace was no sooner restored in the country than our Mission 
and school at St. Mary's assumed their usual pleasing aspect ; 
and we were again favoured with prosperity in every depart- 
ment of our work. Access also being once -more afforded to 
the interior, I began to prepare for my intended visit to 
Macarthy's Island, which had been hitherto delayed entirely on 
account of the war. 

Having made the necessary arrangements for carrying on 
the work at St. Mary's in mv absence, and obtained the 
sanction of his Excellency the Governor, on Thursday, the 
8 tli of March, 1832, I commenced my second voyage up the 
Gambia. On this occasion I took with me John Cupidon, 
one of the Native Assistant Missionaries, and a supply of books, 
and school requisites, with a view to the commencement of 
a Mission at Macarthy's Island. I also took, as an attendant 
and interpreter, my favourite little black boy, Petty, who had 
been living with us for some time, and attending the Z\Iission 
school. Though not more than ten or eleven years of age, 
this little feilovv was remarkably clever and intelligent. He- 
could read his Bible with fluency, write a good hand, and speak 
three or four different languages. He was very useful in 
preparing my food, as well as in attending to other little matters 
during our travels ; and he scarcely ever failed to interpret 
accurately, when I wished to hold a conversation with the 
natives. He was, moreover, a pleasing instance of early piety ; 
and by his amiability and general good conduct he endeared 
himself to all who knew him. i 

We sailed in Mr. Grant's new r cutter, the " Highlander ; " 
and were accompanied by two or three merchants, who were 



CHAP. VIII. — SECOND VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 169 

on their way to the upper river, to make arrangements with 
the native Chiefs, for the opening up of new channels of 
commerce. The weather was delightfully fine, the company 
was agreeable, and we commenced our journey animated with 
pleasing prospects of success in our respective projects. For 
the first clay or two the wind was contrary, and Ave made but 
little progress. 

While travelling in Western Africa, we met with numerous 
instances of the spiritual darkness and moral degradation of 
the native tribes, both ^Mohammedan and Pagan ; and the 
experience of every day demonstrates the fact, that the people 
are " sitting in darkness, and in the shadow of death." Among 
other fearful proofs of the depths of ignorance to which the 
natives are sunk, we met with frequent instances of devil- 
worship. On proceeding up the Gambia, about two days' sail 
from St. Mary's, there is a place called Devil's Point, which 
we reached on Friday evening ; on passing which, the native 
Captains of vessels almost invariably present an offering to his 
Satanic majesty. The offering consists of a small portion of 
every eatable article in the ship's cargo. They have a strange 
superstitious notion that the prince of darkness has his special 
residence under this point of land; and that he stretches out 
his long arms beneath the waters to receive the offerings of his 
worshippers. Being thus kindly propitiated, they imagine that 
the devil will do them no harm during the whole of the 
voyage up and clown the river. When will this deluded people 
learn to trust in the true and loving God ? 

In the course of this journey I had an opportunity of calling 
at many places on the banks of the Gambia, which I did not 
visit on my first voyage up the river. One of these was Jarma- 
licuiida, where we went on shore, on the morning of Saturday, 
the 10th. This place is situated in a beautiful open part of the 
country, on the northern bank of the river ; and the ground in 
the neighbourhood of the town was cleared and cultivated to a 
greater extent than usual. Here we visited the ruins of a large 
mercantile establishment, erected many years ago ; but, as it 
did not answer the expectations of the proprietor, it was allowed 
to go to decay. At this village I was introduced to two coloured 



170 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

females of superior intelligence in regard to the things of this 
world ; but, on speaking to them on the subject of religion, I 
was sorry to find them as dark and ignorant as the slaves by 
whom they were surrounded. Though rigid Mohammedans, 
they nevertheless listened attentively to my remarks on the 
superior claims of the Gospel ; and the result of our conversa- 
tion must be left to Him without whose blessing all our labours 
are in vain. 

On the following day, which was the Sabbath, we came to 
anchor early, that arrangements might be made for public wor- 
ship. The sailors put up an awning, to screen us from the 
scorching rays of the sun ; and I read prayers, and preached to a 
small but attentive congregation. The solemnity of this reli- 
gious service was enhanced by the recollection of the fact, that, 
whilst we were thus engaged in the worship of the true and 
living God, the surrounding country was involved in the gross- 
est heathenism. This was indeed a day of spiritual blessing, 
although our humble offering was presented to the Lord in a 
locality so far from the abodes of civilized men. 

On Monday morning, the 12th, before daylight, we manned 
a canoe, and a party of us set out for Doma-sang-sang, leaving 
the cutter to pursue her course. At this place, Mr. Riley, one 
of our party, had a mercantile establishment. On passing 
Elephant Island by the northern channel, we met a native 
canoe, with six men, and were much amused with their novel 
mode of sailing. They were floating down the river with the 
ebb-tide and a moderate breeze in their favour ; and to accele- 
rate their progress, they had struck a large branch of a tree in 
the centre of the canoe, on which the wind acted as a sail ; and 
they were gliding along at a rapid rate, without troubling them- 
selves with the paddles. We soon left the main branch of the 
Gambia, and ascended a long narrow creek on the southern side 
of the river. We had a fine prospect on either hand, the country 
being more open than usual ; and we saw large flocks of guinea- 
fowls and crown-birds flying about in every direction. About 
tw T o o'clock in the afternoon we reached Doma-sang-sang, a 
small village nearly at the top of the creek. Here we met with 
Mrs. Riley and her little daughter, awaiting the arrival of Mr. 



CHAP. Till. SECOND VOYAGE VV THE GAMBIA. 171 

Eiley ; and we were treated with great kindness and hospitality. 
Whenwehadpartaken of a substantial dinner, the natives presented 
ns with a large calabash of new milk, which was truly accept- 
able, the day being hot and sultry. Behind the village there is 
a curious conical-shaped hill, from the top of which an extensive 
and delightful prospect presents itself to the view.* In the 
evening we witnessed a specimen of the native music and danc- 
ing, which was rude and barbarous in the extreme. The Xegroes 
went through the most strange and eccentric evolutions, and 
they danced till they were quite exhausted, and then fell back 
into the arms of their friends, and made way for others, by 
whom they were immediately succeeded. The music was 
nothing more than a rude drum, called the tom-tom, a kind of 
tambourine, and a triangle. At a late hour of the night, when 
the tide served, we entered the canoe, and paddled down the 
creek. It was a beautiful moonlight night ; and before day- 
break in the morning we joined the cutter, which we found at 
anchor in the river, awaiting our return, according to previous 
arrangement. 

On Tuesday, the 13th, the weather was excessively hot ; and 
while the vessel was in motion, we had no means of screening 
ourselves from the piercing rays of the sun. In the afternoon 
we came to anchor at Cower, where the vessel had to discharge 
a part of her cargo. As the native traders were ready to take 
charge of it, this was soon done ; and we proceeded on our 
voyage with the next flowing tide. 

* When labouring in the island of Grenada, in the West Indies, many 
years afterwards, I was acquainted with a poor old blind woman, named 
Cumba, who in early life had been brought as a slave from the Gambia. 
After she had heard that I had been in Africa, she was always anxious to 
talk with me about her country ; and when I mentioned Doma-sang-sang, 
which it appeared was her native place, and described the conical hill behind 
the village, from the top of which an extensive view is obtained of the sur- 
rounding country, she clapped her hands in joyous transport, and exclaimed, 
" God bless you, my dear Massa Minister ! Now me know you been to me 
country for true, or else you cannot tell all about it so." She was a truly 
pious person, and it delighted her beyond measure to hear that the Gospel 
of Christ, which had made her so happy, wa3 taking root in her dark be- 
nighted native land ; and she was incessant in her inquiries as to how the 
good work was progressing in Africa. 



172 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

The wind was contrary all day on Wednesday, the 14th, and 
we made but little progress. In the afternoon we caught a 
curious green snake in the river, about two feet long, which I 
preserved in a bottle of spirits. We also met with large num- 
bers of hippopotami, or river-horses. These huge animals are 
very numerous in the Gambia. They rank next in size to the 
elephant, which they much resemble in their form ; but they 
are amphibious, generally spending the night on shore, and the 
day in the water. Early in the morning, as they return from 
their nocturnal depredations, they may be heard splashing into 
the river from the banks, on either hand ; and at short intervals 
during the day they come to the surface of the water to blow 
like the whale. The noise which they make at such times is 
frequently most awful, resembling the sound of distant thunder. 
They are rather dangerous neighbours to those who sail in 
canoes or small boats ; and I have known a hippopotamus to 
strike its large tusks through the bottom of a small vessel, and 
thereby endanger the crew and the cargo. The tasks are said 
to be more valuable than those of the elephant, being of a 
harder texture, and used as a superior kind of ivory. 

On the morning of Thursday, the 15th, we passed Cassang, 
and one of the natives came off to beg as usual. During the 
day we made but little progress, the wind being very light, and 
the flowing tide not very strong at that season of the year in 
this part of the river. Although the water of the river at this 
distance from the sea is influenced by the tide, it is nevertheless 
quite fresh and fit to drink, as the salt water, while it forces the 
fresh water up the river on the flowing of the tide, does not mix 
with it to any considerable distance. 

Early on the morning of Friday, the 18th, we came in sight 
of Macarthy's Island ; and about nine o'clock a.m. we anchored 
off George Town, and went on shore immediately. Many of 
the natives remembered my former visit, and flocked around me 
with smiling faces to welcome my arrival. They had heard of 
the war which prevented my coming at an earlier period ; and 
were now delighted to find that I had brought them a Teacher, 
and made arrangements for the establishment of a permanent 
Mission among them. My friend, Lieutenant W. Shaw, having 



CHAP. VIII. SECOND YOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 173 

left the island, I took possession of his hut, which was unoccu- 
pied, unfurnished, and much dilapidated. It required some 
contrivance to " make shift," under these circumstances, during 
my brief sojourn. An old window-shutter, placed horizontally 
on the top of an empty flour barrel, served for a table, on which 
I placed an empty bottle as a candlestick ; while a kind-hearted 
native, who had in his possession a " white man's chair," cheer- 
fully lent it to me during my stay. With other articles of 
greater importance I was pretty well supplied ; as I always 
carried with me a stock of bread, tea, coffee, sugar, and other 
necessary items for furnishing my table in the wilderness : and 
being accompanied by my favourite Negro boy, to prepare my 
food, and act as interpreter, I felt that I was more highly 
favoured than many other Missionaries who had been engaged 
in a similar pioneer work. But when night came, I was some- 
what perplexed as to how I should arrange for the sleeping 
department. The interior of the dilapidated hut looked cold 
and damp, from having been so long uninhabited ; I therefore 
resolved to sleep outside, under an open shed in the yard. On 
looking round, I saw an old gate, which I took from its hinges, 
propped up with stones to keep it from the damp ground, 
spread my mattress upon it. and slept upon it very comfortably. 
It is true, that on awaking the first night I saw, by the light 
of the moon, two or three large lizards crawling very near me ; 
but these reptiles are quite harmless. I soon composed myself 
to rest again, and slept soundly till morning. This rude con- 
trivance for lodging and living served my purpose very well 
during my stay in the island. 

The next day, I visited every house in the settlement, and 
informed the people of the arrangements I had made with 
reference to the Mission : at the same time I took a census of 
the population, according to the request of the Governor, on my 
departure from St. Mary's. The inhabitants of George Town 
amounted to about two hundred, professedly British subjects ; 
but the Mandingo town, at a short distance, to which I could 
not get access for this purpose, is much more populous. 

On Sunday morning, the 18th, I preached to a large and 
attentive congregation from Luke ii. 10 : " Behold, I bring you 



r- 



174 



FAET I. — WESTERN AFETCA. 






good tidings of grea: joy. which : to all people/ 5 And, 

in the evening, Brother Cupidon preached from iii. 2 : 

;; Repent ye. for the kingdom of heaven is at hand." This was 
a most delightful Sabbath. — a day long to be remembered ; and 
I was induced to hope and t elieve thai the word preached would 
be as "bread cast upon the waters, seen after many d; 

I arose early next morning, and walked round the settlement 
with the acting Commandant., a black man, to look out for a 
suitable piece of ground for the erection of temporary .Mission 
premises ; but every site which I thought eligi • already 

taken v. :u . more or less occupied irith native huts. Wie met, 
however, with a person who was willing tc lis] c of 

land, with a quantity of building materials already prepared. I 
therefore made a purchase of the immediately em- 

ployed workmen to erect a humble sanctuary and other temporary 
buildings, so as to afford accommodation for the congregation 
and school, with apartment- for the Native Teacher. 

Our next undertaking was the sommeneement of the Mission 
school. We collected a number if little black children, and 
made the ft rst attempt at tea :hing in an Did dilapidated building 
belonging to the government, till our own premises were com- 
pleted. We found the uulhren in their native wildness, and 
running about in a state :: somplete nudity; bnf we soonfur- 
nished them with :. :-'" u::i lies :: wearing apparel, which had 
been kindly supplied by the friends of .Missions in England; 
and the little people became : : customed to the discipline of the 
school much more readily than we expected. 

He viug put every thing in train : connected with the formation of 
this new station, a:::; hem;: auxicus to return to St. Mary's with 
as little delay as possible, where several matters of importance 
required my presence. I :::k my departure en the evening cf 
Tuesday, the 20:h: leaving John Cupiciom my Xative Assistant, 
in charge of the sehcclaud infant J-Iissi : ee at Macnituy's Island. 
Poor Cupidon felt acutely at the idea c: eeriig left alone ; but after 
we hue spent a short time in conversation and prayer, we were 
obliged to part. I then went on board a small sloop called the 
Ilia; " ; 1. elcnainc; :e my cbieud Air. Ercwn: and. a::er weigh- 
ing anchor, we rapidly descended the river, having a fair wind 



CHAP. VIII. — SECOND VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 175 

•and a strong ebbing* tide. The accommodations on board this 
little vessel were very limited ; and, every foot of available space 
below being filled up with corn and other cargo, I was obliged 
to stretch my weary limbs on deck without any shelter from the 
dew of the night or the heat of the day ; but I was mercifully 
preserved from all harm and danger. 

On the morning of Wednesday, the 21st, we went on shore 
for a few minutes at Dean's Island ; and in the afternoon we 
landed at Cower. I was sorry to find at the place last men- 
tioned that there had been some disturbance among the natives. 
It is in this neighbourhood that the Mandingo country borders 
on that of the Jalloffs ; and the two tribes inhabiting the dis- 
trict situated between the Gambia and the Senegal are frequently 
at variance with each other. Several of the Mandingoes be- 
longing to Cower had removed their goods from the town, and 
were assembled on the bank of the river, ready to take their 
departure in the canoes which they had prepared for the purpose. 
We had no time to inquire into the precise nature of their 
quarrel, and could only give them a little friendly advice, and 
express our regret that, in this 'dark, benighted region, the 
Gospel of the Prince of Peace is unknown. On leaving Cower, 
we proceeded down the river; and, in the afternoon, I met with 
Captain Chown, in his own vessel, by whom I received letters 
and a supply of stores from my dear wife in St. Mary's. This 
was the only opportunity that I had of hearing from home 
during the whole journey. 

I was thankful that we had not many places to call at on 
descending the Gambia on this occasion, as the vessel was 
exceedingly small and uncomfortable; and I was, moreover, 
anxious to get home, where I knew the duties of my Station 
required my presence. During the whole day on Thursday, the 
22nd, we kept our little craft under weigh, and glided rapidly 
down the centre of the stream without any interruption. The 
vessel being full of cargo, our Captain had no inducement to 
traffic with the natives, and those who came on board merely 
to solicit presents were soon dismissed. 

On Friday, the 23rd, we went on shore at Tentabar, where 
we saw Mr. A , a merchant from St. Mary's, who informed 



176 PART I. "WESTERN AFRICA. 

us of the wreck of Mr. J 's brig, on her voyage from Sierra 

Leone. The history of the two individuals just mentioned is 
very remarkable, and strikingly illustrative of the vicissitudes 
to which the natives are subject in this country, where slavery 

has so long prevailed. Mr. J was originally a poor African, 

of the class called sordnlcies. "When young, he used to visit the 
towns and villages on the banks of the Gambia, in the neigh- 
bourhood of the place where he lived, for the purpose of playing, 
singing, and dancing, for the amusement of the people. On 
one of these excursions, he was captured by a party of ' f men- 
stealers," and sold as a slave. After passing through the hands 
of several slave-merchants, he was ultimately purchased by Mr. 

A ■, a respectable man of colour, who soon afterwards sold 

him to the Captain of an American vessel then in the harbour, 
who took him across the Atlantic. On landing in America, it 

was soon discovered that J , although a slave, was possessed 

of superior mental abilities, and he was consequently placed, by 
the gentleman who purchased him, in a position of confidence. 
By his steady and upright conduct he fully established himself 
in the favour of his new master, who conferred upon him 
numerous privileges not generally enjoyed by those who are in 
a state" of bondage. The consequence was that, after several 

years of industry and care, young J had saved sufficient 

money to purchase his freedom. Having obtained his liberty, 
the enterprising African worked his passage back to the Gambia ; 
and, with the few dollars in his possession, set up as a native 
trader on a small scale. Prosperity crowned his efforts. He 
subsequently purchased a good house, furnished it genteelly, 
and lived as a first-rate gentleman. He owned several vessels, 
and carried on an extensive trade in the river, as well as with 
the other settlements on the coast, and even with the West 

Indies. At the time I knew him, Mr. J lived within a few 

hundred yards of Mr. A , the very person who once sold 

him as a slave, and whom he now surpassed both in wealth and 
respectability as a merchant of the colony. The children of 
both parties attended the Mission school ; and I am happy to 
say that they lived on terms of perfect friendship and good- 
will, and would occasionallv allude to the circumstances here 



CHAP. VIII. — SECOND VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 177 

narrated, with considerable humour, in social parties, where I 
have often met them. 

This is but a specimen of numerous cases which might be 
given of a similar character, and reminds me of another affecting 
incident which occurred some time afterwards at Macarthy's 
Island. Two liberated African boys, Charles and Joseph, who 
attended the Mission school, on observing a man come to the 
Mission-House one day with something to sell, fell upon him, 
and abused him loudly in their native language. On being 
reproved for their apparently strange conduct, Charles ex- 
claimed, " Sir, dat man been kill my moder, and sell me for 
slave !" On farther inquiry it was found that the man whose 
appearance had excited the indignation of these African youths 
was indeed the very person who, a few years before, had set 
their native village on fire, and dragged them into slavery ; that 
he, in his turn, had afterwards been kidnapped, and sold as a 
slave ; and that both parties, having been liberated from the slave- 
ships by British cruisers, were now located on the Gambia, and 
thus brought together, in the order of Providence, within a few 
miles of the place where the capture occurred. 

But, to return to the narrative of our voyage down the 
Gambia, I may briefly remark, that on Saturday, the 24th, at 
an early hour in the morning, as the tide turned, we came to 
anchor off Dog Island, with St. Mary's in sight, though at a 
considerable distance. Being anxious to reach home before the 
Sabbath, I took the small boat, with a couple of men, who plied 
their oars with energy ; and we reached Bathurst in the after- 
noon. On going on shore I was thankful to find that during 
my absence my dear wife had again been preserved in peace and 
safety, and in the enjoyment of moderate health ; although 
much care, labour, and responsibility had necessarily devolved 
upon her in the interim, in connexion with the Mission schools 
and other exercises on the Station. I was gratified also to 
find that the schools and religious services had been well 
attended, and that by means of the united efforts of the Leaders 
and Native Teachers, under the direction of my dear partner, 
everything connected with the good work in which we were 
engaged wore a pleasing aspect. 

K 



178 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

On returning once more to the abodes of civilized men, every- 
thing appeared quite strange for a time. During the whole of my 
journey I had not slept one night in a proper bed, or in a house 
of any kind, being constantly exposed to the open air by night 
and by day. The comforts of home, even in Africa, were thus 
rendered sweet and grateful by the privations which I had 
endured ; and with a thankful heart for all the mercies of my 
God, I continued to prosecute my beloved labours at Bathurst, 
under circumstances of much encouragement. 

It must not be supposed that, in a climate like that of 
Western Africa, and placed in somewhat peculiar circumstances, 
being the only Christian Minister in the country, with the duties 
of Colonial Chaplain devolving upon me, in addition to those of 
a Missionary, there were no trials and difficulties to be encoun- 
tered. Of these we had our share ; but, although I had no 
colleague with whom I could take brotherly counsel in times of 
perplexity, and my dear wife had no sisterly aid and sympathy in 
seasons of affliction, she being the only European female then 
in the country, we found in each other, and in our God, the 
consolation and comfort which we required, and we " went 
on our way rejoicing." 



CHAPTER IX. 

THIRD VOYAGE UP THE . MBIA. 

Letter from John Cupidon — Third Embark at ion for MaeariLy's Island — 
Second visit to Tankerwall — Sabbath — Wild Beasts — Diirlcult Naviga- 
tion — Yanemaroo — Alligators — Kyeye Island — Xative Canoe Song — 
Progress of Macarthy's Mission — Baptisms and Marriages — Return — 
Sickness — Providential Interposition — Dr. Lindo and his Friends — 
Arrival of Missionaries — Erection of Buildings — Attempt to benefit 
the Eoolas — Liberated Africans — Death of Missionaries — Further 
> Progress — Present State of the Macarthy's Mission. 

During- the second year of our missionary labours in T\ estem 
Africa, several interesting incidents occurred at St. Mary's, illus- 
trative of the providence and grace of God, the character of 



CHAP. IX. — THIRD VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 179 

the people, and the progress of the Gospel ; but these I shall 
pass over for the present, and proceed to give a brief account of 
my third voyage up the Gambia, and the results of our new 
Mission at Macarthy's Island, the commencement of which was 
narrated in the last chapter. 

The lively interest manifested by our native converts at 
Bathurst in the success of the labours of John Cupidon, the 
Assistant Missionary, was truly pleasing ; and they felt anxious 
to receive intelligence from their fellow countryman by every 
vessel which arrived from Macarthy's Island. Our hearts were 
cheered from time to time by communications of a favourable 
character, in reference to the progress of the work of God. In 
a letter now before me, brother Cupidon writes as follows : — 

"MacaPvTHy's Island, July \Wi, 1832. 
" Eev. and dear Sie, — As to my feelings and progress 
in the way to heaven, I do bless the Lord for His goodness in 
giving me refreshing seasons to my heart. I know that my 
Eedeemer iiveth ; and have confidence towards God, that through 
the blood of Christ my sins are forgiven ; for I am ' His 
workmanship, created in Christ Jesus unto good works. 5 May 
God of His infinite mercy maintain His cause in this place ! 
Praise be to Him for what He has already done ! I have not 
the least doubt but He is with me, labouring in this part of 
His vineyard. As He said to His disciples of old, so He says 
still. He promised to be with them, to confirm their words to 
the hearts of their hearers. I have another young man joined 
to the Society, which cheers me much. He was before very 
wicked, but has now turned away from his sins by the grace of 
God, and is calling for mercy. I was fearing that, as the 
people here get their living by working their farms, they would 
neglect the meetings in the rainy season ; but I am glad to find 
that they are regular in their attendance, as before. The school 
is also going on well. The boys and girls are making good 
improvement in their reading and other exercises. According 
to your advice, on Sunday last I made a collection at the close 
of the morning and evening services, which amounted to five 
shillings and eleven pence two farthings ; but I hope we shall 

w 2 



180 PAET I. — WESTERS AFRICA. 

get more on the return of another quarter, if the Lord permit. 
I trust, by the mighty working of God's Spirit, the people will 
be more enlightened and affected by the word ; and then. 
though they have not much money here, they will be willing to 
give what they can to forward the Gospel. I have explained 
to them, that all they give goes to the Mission fund, for the 
support of the Gospel. Please, Sir, remember me to the Society 
at St. Mary's, and tell them that the cause of God is prospering 
here, and that they must not cease to pray for me. that God 
may bless my poor labours among this people. Man* joins me 
in best respect for Mrs. Moister and yourself; and, sincerely 
praying for your health and prosperity, I remain, dear Sir. 
yours affectionately in Christ Jesus. 

" John Cupidon." 
" To Bee. TT'. Moister." 

Upon this communication I need make no extended com- 
ment, as it speaks for itself. Notwithstanding its obvious 
imperfections, it exhibits the natural ability of the native convert 
who wrote it, the progress of the work in which he was engaged, 
and the economy of Wesleyan Methodism, which everywhere 
teaches those who have been benefitted by its influence to con- 
tribute of their substance for the support of the Gospel, as the 
Lord prospers them. This pleasing intelligence from the Xative 
Teacher was followed, during the year, by other letters equally 
encouraging, and which excited in my mind a strong desire to 
visit once more this interesting station, to witness the progress 
which had been already made, and to make further arrange- 
ments for the permanent establishment of the work at Macarthy's 
Island. In his subsequent communication, brother Cupidon 
earnestly requested me. if possible, to pay him a visit, as the 
" work was becoming too big for him :" and thai several persons, 
both children and adults, were waiting to be received into the 
church by Christian baptism. He, moreover, informed me that 
a number of couples were anxious to be lawfully married, having 
abandoned their former heathen practices, and manifested a 
desire to flee from the wrath to come. Under these circum- 
stances I made arrangements for leaving St. Mary's on my third 



CHAP. IX. — THIRD VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 131 

voyage up the Gambia, so soon as the season should be favour- 
able for travelling. 

On the morning of Friday, the 1st of February, 1833, I 
went on board the brigantine "Matilda," just arrived from 
England, and bound for the upper river, to take in a cargo 
of mahogany, and other valuable wood, which is found in 
great abundance on the banks of the Gambia. This was the 
largest vessel in which I had ever sailed up the river ; and 
the accommodations were, consequently, more commodious ; 
but she was not well adapted for this particular kind of 
inland navigation. The weather was fine, and the breeze 
favourable : so that we passed James' Fort and Seka Point 
with the first flowing tide ; and were favoured with a splendid 
view of the first and second bends in this magnificent river. 

The following day the wind was unfavourable ; and, the tide 
being spent, we came to anchor off Tankerwail. I immediately 
went on shore, to speak with the natives ; and some of them 
remembered my former visit to this place, nearly two years 
before, and were glad to see me again, I saw among them a 
Mohammedan Priest, whom I had known at St. Mary's ; and 
we entered at once into a friendly discussion of the comparative 
.merits of the religion of Christ and that of the false prophet. 
He had in his possession a copy of the Koran, beautifully 
written in Arabic, which he kept carefully folded up, and 
deposited in a leather bag. After repeatedly bowing himself 
to the ground with apparent reverence, and uttering a few 
words of prayer, he proceeded to unfold and open the book, 
several passages of which he read with considerable fluency. 
After allowing him to expatiate at some length on the merits 
of his own religion, I ventured to speak on the excellency of 
Christianity, and particularly directed the attention of the 
Priest, and the people who surrounded us, to its missionary 
character. I ask them if ever they knew a Mohammedan 
Priest leave his country, his friends, and his home, to sojourn 
in a land of strangers, for the sole purpose of propagating the 
principles of his religion. This was sufficient : he had nothing 
to say in reply, being apparently confounded ; and, by giving 
Avay to anger, he brought upon himself the ridicule of his own 



182 PAET I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

people, who had manifested considerable interest in the conver- 
sation. After talking with the natives for some time longer, 
I went to see their gardens and provision grounds ; and was 
exceedingly gratified to find that they had extended the 
cultivation in the neighbourhood of the town since I was here 
last. Numbers still live a life of indolence, however ; and we 
found a large party of men, as usual, squatting under the 
bentang tree, in the front of the town, whiting away their 
time by talking over the news of the day, while their wives 
were busily engaged in agricultural labour. 

When the Sabbath morning dawned upon us, we were 
pursuing our course with a favourable breeze and a flowing 
tide. The sun arose without a cloud to obscure the splendour 
of his rays ; and the surrounding scenery seemed to harmonize 
with the sacredness of the day. We came to anchor early, 
and preparations were made for Divine service on board. 
The sailors assembled on the quarter deck ; and, although 
our congregation was small, we felt it good to wait upon the 
Lord. 

On Monday morning, the 4th, I found we had not made so 
much progress during the night as I expected, the wind being 
light, and not very favourable. About noon we met Captain 
Chown's schooner ; and I embraced the opportunity of writing 
to my dear wife at St. Mary's, to inform her that, thus far, all 
was well. We had on board our vessel a native of Cower, 
with whom I had an interesting conversation with reference to 
that part of the country. He appeared to think that a Christian 
Missionary would be well received there, and -that the people 
would gladly avail themselves of the opportunity of having 
their children instructed in a Mission school. I was glad to 
hear such an opinion expressed by an intelligent native, as I 
had long thought that if we had the means of extending our 
labours on the banks of the Gambia, Cower would be a very 
eligible place for a station. It is a central situation, about half 
way between St. Mary's and Macarthy's; and from the circumstance 
of its bordering both on the Mandingo and the Jalloff countries, 
access might probably be gained from hence to the people of 
both nations. The King of Salem, whose territory terminates 



CHAP. IX. — THIRD VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 183 

here, is, moreover, very friendly towards the British Government, 
and would be likely to favour the commencement of a Mission 
in his dominions. 

We came to anchor off Elephant Island in the evening, the 
tide being spent, and the breeze not being sufficiently strong to 
enable our vessel to stem the current. The death-like silence 
that pervaded the desolate spot during the evening, was 
interrupted only by the roar of the lion, and the growl of the 
tiger, as these animals emerged from their dens to seek their 
nightly prey in the surrounding forests. I retired early; and 
as I lay in my berth, my hours of rest were broken by pensive 
thoughts of my native land, friends, and home, which obtruded 
themselves upon my mind, and for a time depressed my spirits. 
But when I called to mind the glorious enterprise in which I 
was engaged, these melancholy feelings gave place to the pleas- 
ing anticipation that good might be the result of the humble 
efforts which I was making to spread the knowledge of the 
Saviour's name in this long-neglected country. 

The wind being contrary all day on Tuesday, the oth, we 
made but little progress. In the afternoon we passed a 
mountainous district, abounding with wild beasts of various 
kinds. I asked one of the natives if he would procure me 
a young lion ; but he shrewdly observed that if I would walk 
up the hill with him, he would show me plenty; but as to the 
catching of them, he would rather leave that to me, About 
eight o'clock at night we came to anchor off Cower, and I was 
glad to retire to rest, the heat having been intense during the 
day. 

Early on the morning of Wednesday, the 6th, we got under 
weigh ; but when the tide turned we came to anchor off the 
mouth of Bateda Creek, and several of the natives came on 
board to trade. Erom these people we obtained a supply of 
fowls, eggs, and new milk, for which we gave them tobacco and 
beads in barter, — money being scarcely known in these parts. 
As the tide began to flow, about two o'clock P.M., we weighed 
anchor again ; but we had not proceeded far before the vessel 
ran aground, so that we were obliged to heave out the anchor 
in deep water, and warp her off as well as we could, which 



154 PAST I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

requi r e e i : e . stre ztli of all on board. We nex : 
the mast and rigging of our vessel entangled in the trees, which 
overhang the river in this locality. Thns we experienced the 
inconvenience of navigating this serpentine river, with such a 
large vessel, at the season of the year when there is not a _ 
depth water in some places. 

On Thursday, the 7th, we went on shore at Yanemaroo, 
where Hj Riley had a bra:.: He establishment. Mr* 

Riley was from home; but Mrs. Riley rec ivc I ns ray I 
and treated as with :rue African hospitality, is she had done 
a: Doma-saug-sang the ear before. She sent her people into 
the pasture to milk the sows, trgaled us with an abundant 

supply of the delicious :: ge« After returning to the i 
we saw number of alligators basking in the sun, on a sandbank, 
short iistance. As the sailors had nothic. dbc to do, 
: h : loaded a small cann : : ister-shot, and fired at 

them, en they instantly :ed under the water. These 

very numerous in the Gambia; and we sc: 
passed without seeing one or more of them. As the 

natives frequently bath: in the river, and in the creeks, serious 
accidents frequently occur. >:metimes an individual has Lost 
a leg or an arm, and instances were related : me of chi 
having been entirely dragged away by these ferocious creatures. 
They frequently measure twelve or fifteen feet in length ; and 
the:: scales are so strong and compact that a musket ball will 
scarcely make any impression on them, unless it strike under the 
fore leg, where it is more soft and vulnerable. Towards 
evening we got under weigh again; and, as we passed Cassanin 
the stillness ::' the night, enrl in a deeh caln:. :::: 

the singing of the men as they plied their oai 
the boat, while endeavouring to pull the vessel along; and the 
harsh cry of the hippopotamus, as it quitted the river to 
::::::nit its neghtly Jzpreelatitns in the cult: rated g::u::;ls c: the 
natives , 

Bei::^ anruehens:ve that I shculd net re 
before the Sabbath. I :::se :e:ey :n ^ : e n: ::::::_. tee .1th. 

_ :e solved to go on shore, and perform the remaine 
the journey by land. The moon shone brightly on the placid 



CHAP. IX. — THIRD YOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 185 

waters of the Gambia, as I paced the deck of the " Matilda," 
considering which would be the best course to pursue. About 
six o'clock a.m., after a hasty breakfast, we landed on Kyeye 
Island, as the vessel was working her way through the southern 
passage. I placed a basket, containing some refreshments, on 
the head of my little Negro boy, and we followed a Mandingo 
man who had engaged to be our guide. The path lay directly 
across the island, which appeared to be pretty well cultivated, 
and might be about half a mile wide. On arriving at the native 
village, on the other branch of the river, where we intended to 
cross over, and proceed through the kingdom of Kateba, we met 
with a canoe, ready laden, and just about to start direct for 
Macarthy's Island. I therefore relinquished the idea of going 
by land ; and, for a few trifling articles, engaged a passage for 
myself, my boy, and our native guide. In a few minutes we 
were under weigh, and gliding swiftly along, with the tide in 
our favour. The canoe was manned by twelve Mandingoes, six 
on either side, who cheered each other in their usual manner by 
an extemporaneous song, to which they kept time with their 
paddles, as they propelled it through the water at a rapid rate. 
Hearing them make use of the words sering Tababe, or " white 
Minister," in their song, I asked my little boy what the people 
were singing about. He said, " They are singing about you, 
Sir." On further inquiry as to the particulars of this wild 
extemporaneous effusion, he proceeded to inform me that in 
their song they said, " The canoe was a new one ; it had never 
been up the river before ; and that they hoped it would be a 
successful canoe, because, on its first voyage, a white Minister 
was on board;" with the chorus at the end of every verse, 
e: Success to the white Minister and the new canoe!" This 
little incident is illustrative of a common practice among this 
lively and humorous people. They seem as if they cannot 
work with spirit unless they have a song to cheer them in their 
labour, especially when plying their paddles on board a canoe. 
The Captain, or man who steers, generally dictates the words of 
the song with admirable tact ; and his voice alone is heard until 
he comes to the chorus, when the whole crew unite with him in 
the most hearty and enthusiastic manner. A few, however, of 



186 PAST I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

those long degraded Africans, who have been recently converted 
to the faith of the Gospel, now delight in singing the songs of 
Zion, while engaged in their daily work ; and we trust the 
number will rapidly increase. May the happy day soon come 
when the banks of this beautiful river shall resound with the 
praises of God ! 

We proceeded very comfortably, till we came in sight of 
Macarthy's Island, and within four or five miles of our destina- 
tion ; when the wind arose, and caused the waves to dash over 
the gunwale of the canoe, which was heavily laden with salt. 
As it was considered unsafe to proceed till the storm had abated, 
the people ran the vessel into a small bay, on the northern side 
of the river, cutting away the brushwood to prepare a landing- 
place, and we went on shore. Unfortunately for me, we were 
landed on the wrong side of the river, otherwise we could soon 
have walked up to the Mission station. I remembered that we 
had passed a sloop at anchor, a short time before this accident 
occurred ; and I resolved, if possible, to get within hearing of 
her, that we might procure her boat to put us across the river. 
With this object in view, after partaking of a little refreshment, 
we pursued our way down the northern bank of the river, over 
a track of marshy land, where we beheld no trace of human 
footsteps, and where the standing grass was several feet higher 
than our heads. After we had worked our way through this 
for some distance, we came to a more open part of the country, 
where the dry grass had been burned down. We found it very 
difficult to walk among the charry stubble, which stood about 
half a yard high, and which soon made my white linen dress 
anything but white. At length we came in sight of the sloop, 
hailed the boat, crossed the river, and gave the boatmen the 
remainder of our provisions for their trouble. We then walked 
to George Town, where we arrived about sunset, much fatigued 
with the exercises of the day, and the dreariness of the passage 
up the river, which had occupied nine days since we left St. 
Mary's. We were kindly received by John and Mary Cupidon, 
the Native Teacher and his wife, and were happy to find them 
usefully employed in the work of their Divine Master. Mary 
made us a comfortable cup of tea, which was truly refreshing ; 



CHAP. IX. — THIRD YOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 187 

and I retired to rest with a grateful heart for the preserving 
mercies of my heavenly Father. 

When I arose on the morning of Sunday, the 10 th, I felt 
much revived, and in some measure prepared for the labours of 
the day. At ten o'clock a.m., the people assembled for Divine 
worship, evidently anticipating something more than usual, As 
I entered the chapel, I could not but observe the change which 
had taken place in the appearance and manners of the people 
since I last addressed them. They presented themselves in the 
house of God clean and neat in their apparel, and conducted 
themselves with a reverence and propriety becoming the solem- 
nity of the occasion. I read prayers, and preached with free- 
dom and comfort to a deeply attentive congregation ; after 
which I baptized seven adults and sixteen children. The adults 
had been carefully instructed and prepared for this sacred ordi- 
nance by the Native Teacher ; and the children were the off- 
spring of parents who had avowed their determination to devote 
themselves fully to the service of the Lord. In the afternoon I 
examined the Sunday school, which consisted chiefly of young 
men and women ; and I was delighted to observe the eagerness 
with which they were endeavouring to make out the meaning of 
the words of Him who " spake as never man spake." We held 
another service in the evening, which proved to be a season of 
" refreshing from the presence of the Lord." This holy Sabbath 
was, indeed, a day long to be remembered ; and, had I not 
actually beheld it, I could scarcely have believed that such a 
change could have taken place in so short a time, through the 
simple teaching of a converted African ; for several gave pleasing 
evidence that a work of grace had commenced in their hearts ; 
and the whole congregation engaged in singing, and other 
devotional exercises, with a life and energy truly delightful. 

On Monday morning, the 11th, the "Matilda" having 
arrived, I obtained my luggage. In the afternoon I examined 
the Mission school, and was delighted beyond measure with 
the progress made by these little Xegro children. Twelve 
months before they were running about in a wild and barbarous 
state, with scarcely any clothing, and without any one to care 
for their immortal souls ; but now I beheld them neatly clothed, 



1SS PAM I. — WE8TBRS ArEICA. 

and heard them lisp the praises of the Almighty. Several of 
the elder scholars, in this short ;f time, had learned to 

read easy lessons in the New-Testament Scriptures, and a few 
were being taught writing and arithmetic: thus affording a 
demonstrative proof that the untutored African possesses natural 

nifties tc receive instruction, when proper mean- 
ployed to raise him from his degraded condition. The pleasure 
I realized :._ this delightful occasion more than com- 
pensated for all the toil and privations which I had experienced 
ill ~ annexion with the establishment of this interesting Mission. 

I had a long xmversation, on Tuesday, the 12th. with the 
owner of the Cataba country. This was not the King, but a 
kind of Lord of the 1 important 

personage* I . im if he and the King would allow a 

Missionary tc settle in their country, and if they would sell a 
piece of land for a Mission station. He said they would gladly 
have a Missionary to live among them, and that we might build 
house- ; but he could not :" any land, as t~. sontrary to 

the customs of their fathers ; and thai he held the land not for 
himself, but for posterity. I then inquired if we should be 
allowed to quarry building stone out of a certain hill to which 
I pointed. "As for that," said his sable lordship, "you 
dig away the ^hole hill, if you will give me two gallons of rum." 
When we did build, we obtained stones without giving rum. 

On Wednesday, the 13th, the heat was very great, and the 
thermometer rose to 98° in the shade. There was a peculiar 
dry, parching heat in the breeze itself, is it now blew from the 
eastward, across :':.z -:: :- nsive sandy deserts in the interior. In 
the evening I preached, and administered the sacrament of the 
Lords Supper : the native members of our infant church. 
This was the first opportunity they h; 1 sver enjoyed of thus 
commemorating the lying love :: Christ ; end it was a solemn 
and profitable season. 

On Thursday, the 14£h, I had the pleasure of uniting several 
r.nnies in h :iy :nan-i:n:ny. They iia ... . e en previously instructed 
in ::.r 1: n::n ts :::.:, :n: ';;:nn:in :: ::.r L';.::r.::n niigion, and 
declared their determination to endeavour to "walk in all the 
commandments and ordinances of the Lord blameless." When 



CHAP. IX. — THIBD VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 189 

it is remembered that the natives in their heathenish state are 
grossly addicted to polygamy and concubinage, this circum- 
stance will afford satisfactory evidence that the Gospel of our 
Lord Jesus Christ was beginning to exercise its legitimate 
influence upon the hearts and lives of this long degraded 
people. 

The services and exercises of the past few clays had been 
deeply interesting, and most gladly would I have prolonged my 
stay at Macarthy's Island; but duty called me to return as 
soon as possible to my own station at St. Mary's. Having, 
therefore, accomplished the object of my visit, I began to 
arrange for my departure. On taking an affectionate leave of 
the Native Teacher, and the dear people who flocked around 
me, they were much moved. I commended them " to God 
and to the word of His grace ; " and they sorrowed most of all 
at the thought that they would probably see my face no more 
in this world ; and this indeed proved to be my last interview 
with this interesting people. It was late at night on Friday, 
the 15th, before I could get on board the small vessel by which 
I had taken my passage ; but, when we did get under weigh,. 
we made rapid progress down the river, having both wind and 
tide in our favour. 

The next morning we met a vessel from St. Mary's, bo- 
wmen I received a parcel containing letters and periodicals both, 
from Bathurst and London. The " Magazines " and " Mis- 
sionary Notices " were truly interesting. The pleasure arising 
from the perusal of these useful publications, and the value of 
intelligence from dear old England, can only be fully estimated 
by those whose lot has been cast in distant heathen lands, 
where the blessings of social intercourse with intelligent Chris- 
tian friends is almost unknown. 

In descending the river, on this occasion, I was attacked with 
a violent fever almost immediately after going on board the 
vessel ; and was confined to my berth nearly the whole time of 
the passage. I was, therefore, thankful to find that we should 
not be detained by many calls at native towns, as is frequently 
the case. Severe illness in a country like Western Africa is 
painful under any circumstances ; but especially so when it 



190 PAST I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

occurs in travelling at a distance from medical aid, removed 
from the comforts of home, and deprived of the kind band of 
affection to minister to one's necessities in the trying hour. My 
poor little Negro hoy manifested much sympathy, and did all 
in his power to soothe my sorrows ; but my sufferings were very 
great, being completely exhausted by being so long confined to 
the deck and hold of a small vessel, with constant fev 

On Wednesday morning, 20th, though scarcely able to move, 
I crawled on deck, and beheld in the distance, with grateful 
emotions, the white houses of Bathurst. The f con- 

trary, and the tide had just turned against us. Being anxious 
to reach home as soon as possible, a small boat was manned, 
and I was landed at St. Mary's in about three hours. I 
so weak that I could scarcely walk from the beach Mis- 

sion-House without assistance ; and when my dear wife looked 
upon me, and saw the change which sickness had made in 
appearance, she was much affected. TVe were thankful, how- 
ever, to meet together once more ; and sincerely did we praise 
the Lord for His continued preserving goodness and mercy. 
By the Divine blessing upon the means employed, I 
was in a short time so far restored as to enable me to resume 
my labours with some degree of comfort. It must, however, be 
evident to every one, that the repeated attacks of fever to which 
a Missionary is subject in that unhealthy climate, so compl : 
prostrate his strength as not only to incapacitate him occa- 
sionally for active labour for the time being, but ultimately :: 
make a serious impression upon his constitution. This I 
proved by painful experience, whilst labouring in Westerfl 
Africa; and I frequently discharged the important duties of my 
office in circumstances of extreme weakness and debility. 

In bringing to a close this simple narrative of tacts and 
incidents connected with the establishment of our new Mission 
at Macarthy's Island, I must not omit to record a few further 
particulars relative to the subsequent progress of the work, and 
the remarkable interposition of Divine Providence in its favour. 

Deeply impressed with the necessity and importance of the 
appointment of an English Missionary to reside at Macarthy's 
Island, I applied to the Missionary Committee in London, soon 



CHAP. IX. — TKIED VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 191 

after my first visit to that place, and strongly urged them to 
send out a Minister without delay, for that important sphere of 
labour ; but such were the pressing demands in other parts of 
the great Mission held, and the depressed state of the Society's 
funds, that they could not then comply with my request ; and 
therefore sent me the following communication : — 

"London, December lltli. 1S31. 
" My deae Eeothes, — We were thankful to hear that you 
and Airs. Cloister had recovered from your affliction ; and I do 
hope that the worst is new past, and that the remaining period 
of your stay at the Gambia will be marked by health and use- 
fulness. Dr. Townley, I suppose, has given you some directions 
about the Assistant Missionaries, to which I hope you will be 
able to attend ; and, when a little more cultivated, you might, 
I should think, employ them in some of those openings to which 
you refer. I regret to say that we cannot possibly send you 
another Missionary at present. And now, my dear brother, let 
me entreat you to take care of your health, live in the spirit of 
your work, and look to God for His promised blessing upon 
your exertions'. With kind regards to Mrs. Moister, I remain 

" Tours affectionately, 

" JOEN Ja3IES." 

" To Rev. W, Moister:' 

From what has already been recorded, it will appear that I 
had by anticipation acted upon the above suggestion, in refer- 
- ence to the employment of native agency. But the work at 
Macarthy's Island having now become too weighty for a ^Native 
Assistant, I renewed the application for a European Missionary, 
but still without success. I was, moreover, apprehensive that, 
for want of funds, we might be ultimately obliged to abandon 
our new Mission entirely. During the first year of its existence, 
it had been conducted without any expense to the parent Society. 
At an early period of my missionary labours at the Gambia, 
certain moneys had been placed at my disposal by the Govern- 
ment, as remuneration for performing the duties of the Colonial 
Chaplain, during his absence from the settlement. Being at 



192 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

the same time in the receipt of my regular allowances as a Mis- 
sionary, I felt that I could not better employ the proceeds of 
my extra labour than by devoting them to the extension of the 
Gospel in the interior of Africa. It was from this source of 
income that I purchased the land, erected temporary Mission 
premises, and paid the salary of the Native Assistant at McC- 
arthy's Island for the first twelve months, without any expense 
devolving on the funds of the parent Society. But the Chaplain 
having now returned to the colony, my allowance for performing 
his duties was discontinued : consequently I was much perplexed 
about the matter, not knowing whether the Committee would be 
able to maintain our new Mission, even on its present limited 
scale of expenditure. Under these circumstances, we made our 
case known to God in prayer ; and, while we were pleading in 
Africa, God was working by His providence in England, 
and literally answering our prayers in a manner we little 
expected. 

In the year 1832, a returned Missionary, the Eev. John 
Morgan, was stationed at Southampton ; and still feeling a deep 
interest in the degraded natives of Africa, among whom he had 
formerly laboured, especially the wandering Eoolas on the banks- 
of the Gambia, who had particularly attracted his attention, he 
made an appeal on their behalf to several benevolent gentlemen 
of that town, at the head of whom was the late philanthropic 
Dr. Lindo. These friends of Africa formed themselves into a 
committee of supply ; and, by their personal contributions and 
zealous efforts in collecting from others, they raised funds for 
the purpose of supporting an English Missionary and two 
Native Assistants at Macarthy's Island, without any expense to 
the parent . Society. When their plans were matured, they made 
a generous offer to the Wesleyan Missionary Committee in 
London of three hundred and fifty pounds a year, for five years, 
in aid of this object. This offer was, of course, gratefully 
accepted ; and the Eev. Thomas Dove was soon afterwards 
selected for this service, who, in company with the Eev. William 
Eox, appointed as my successor at St. Mary's, embarked for the 
Gambia early in 1833. 

The first intelligence I received of this noble and benevolent 






CHAP. IX. — THIRD VOYAGE TOP THE GAMBIA. 193 

project was by the following official communication, from one 
who was soon afterwards called to his reward ; — 

i: London., October ISih, 1832. 

" My deah Beothee, — I enclose you copies of two letters 
from Mr. Morgan, that von may read them to any of your 
intelligent friends, and take their opinion, and transmit it to us, 
with any information touching the subject which you may col- 
lect We shall look out for a successor, and trust you will 

be spared to return in health and peace. Watch kindly over 
the young men under your care, and lire for God and eternity, 
" I am yours affectionately, 

'•'Piichaed Watson." 

" To Fiev. IF. Moister." 

The effects produced on our minds by the welcome informa- 
tion that arrangements were thus being made for the extension 
of the good work in the interior, on such a liberal scale, may be 
better imagined than described. The pleasing intelligence was 
announced to our people, when every countenance beamed with 
joy: and many prayers were offered up to God, that He would 
bring the new Ministers and their families over the sea in peace 
and safety. 

On Tuesday, April 23rd, 1S33, a vessel appeared off the 
mouth of the river; and, as she approached, it was ascertained 
that it was the brig "Jack/ 5 from England. When taking a 
ride along the beach in the afternoon, I hailed the pilot-boat, and 
was informed that " two ladies and gentlemen were onboard 
the vessel; " which suggested the idea that they might be the 
expected Mission party. She came to anchor off Bathnrst 
in the evening; and, on walking down to the wharf, I had the 
pleasure of welcoming to the shores of Africa the Rev. William 
and Mrs. Pox, and the Eev. Thomas and Mrs. Dove.- They 

* The death of Mrs. Dove, which occurred at Sierra Leone seven years 
afterwards, has already been noticed ; but her devoted husband, of whose 
amiable character the writer cherishes a pleasing recollection, was spared to 
labour in connexion with the Missions on the coast of Africa for the loDg 
period of thirteen years. Mr. Dove afterwards laboured with acceptance 

O 



194 PART I. — WESTERN' AFRICA. 

accompanied me to the Mission-House, and we all rejoiced 
together that our friends had been brought in safety across the 
mighty deep to the scene of their future labours. On the fol- 
lowing: evening, I preached from Psalm cxxxvi. 3 : i: The Lord 
hath done great things for us. whereof we are glad." In the 
course of the sermon, I made allusion to what God had done 
for Africa, in sending more Missionaries, to which the people 
responded most devoutly. This being the first native service 
which our friends from England had attended, they expressed 
themselves as much delighted with what they had seen and 
heard, declaring that it was worth the trouble of crossing the 
sea to behold what the Gospel had done for this people. 

By this arrival I received the following letter, which may 
serve to illustrate the plan adopted for the extension of the 
Gospel on the islands and banks of the Gambia, through the 
liberality and zeal of Dr. Lindo and his friends at Southampton, 
for the special benefit of the Foolas : — 

"London, March 30//', 1833. 

i: My deati Brother, — You will receive this by the bre- 
thren Fox and Dove. Mr. Fox is sent out by the Committee as 
your successor at St. Mary's, and Mr. Dove is sent out to com- 
mence a Mission among the Foolas. A number of gentlemen 
have become so much interested in behalf of that people, that 
they have entered into an engagement to pay us an annual sum 
for the express purpose of supporting a Mission among them. 
We have accepted their proposals, and have engaged Mr. Dove, 
a married Missionary, who shall make Maear dry's Island his 
head-quarters, and who shall have under his direction John 
Cupidon and Pierre Sallah. Government has granted six hun- 
dred acres of land in furtherance of the object, on which Mr. 
Dove will build a residence and erect a school-house. You 
will kindly afford them all the advice and assistance you can. 
If Cupidon has a house fit to receive Mr. and Mrs. Dove, it 

and success at Gibraltar, and in several English Circuits, where lie was much- 
be loved. In the spring of 1858, his health began to fail ; and he continued 
gradually to sink till the Is" of December, 1859, when he peacefully 
expired a: Croydon, in the fifty-ninth year of his age. 



CHAP. IX. — THIRD VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 195 

might be desirable for them both to proceed up the Gambia at 
once, and take Sallah with them, or let him follow after, if 
judged the best. You will, of course, give Mr. Fox, your suc- 
cessor, all necessary instructions. I trust he will prove a faith- 
ful labourer. I hope they will find you well. Great changes 
have taken place here. Mr. Watson and Mr. James have both 
died since Conference ; but our consolation is that c the Lord 
reigneth,' and will order all for the best. 

" I am, dear brother, yours affectionately, 

" John Bbecham." 
" To Rev. TV. Moister." 

Mr. Dove proceeded to Macartby's Island on a temporary 
visit soon after his arrival, leaving Mrs. Dove for a time at St. 
Mary's. On his return, they paid a visit to the Island of 
Goree ; and when the rainy season had passed over, they 
ascended the Gambia, and commenced their labours in the true 
missionary spirit. Aided by an additional grant from the 
Southampton Committee, and by liberal contributions from the 
friends of Missions at Bathurst, Mr. Dove soon succeeded in 
the erection of a commodious Mission-House, and other build- 
ings which were necessary for the Station, occupying in the 
mean time the humble temporary house which we at first put up 
for the Native Teacher. The attention required by these secular 
matters necessarily occupied much of the time of the Mission- 
ary ; but he found opportunities, notwithstanding, to visit, in 
connexion with the Native Teachers, several Mandingo and 
Foola towns in the neighbourhood. Although the Mission 
never succeeded with the particular tribe for whose special 
benefit it was organized, to the extent that was anticipated by 
its sanguine and benevolent projectors, it was, nevertheless, 
made an instrument of great blessing to other natives, espe- 
cially to the liberated Africans of different nations, many hun- 
dreds of whom had been previously located on Macartby's 
Island. Among these people Mr. Dove and his assistants 
laboured with great success, more than one hundred being 
added to the church during the first year, whilst the Mission 
school was reported to be in a prosperous state. A small 

o 2 



196 PAET I. — WESTERS AFRICA. 

chapel was soon erected at Fatcto, at the upper end of the 
island, where a liberated African village had sprung up : and 
considerable progress was realized from year to year in every 
department of the work. 

Having laboured for three years at M 's Island, and 

suffered much from fever at different times, Mr. and Mrs, 
Dove returned to England in the month of May, 1836; and 
were succeeded by Mr. Pox. who now came out to the 
for the second time. On this occasion. Mr. Fox was accom- 
panied by the Rev. E. M. MacBrair, who was sent on a special 
mission to attempt to reduce the Foola and Mandiugc lan- 
guages to a grammatical form, and to translate into tl 
tongues a portion of Holy Scripture; the Southampton Com- 
mittee having generously granted a thousand pounds for this 
object. The learned Missionary found the climate of VTestem 
Africa very unfriendly to literary pursuits ; he moreover met 
with other difficulties, in the form of opposition to missionary 
labours from Europear its at M Island, such 

as had never before bee:: experienced. He, nevertheless, made 
some progress : an:, aftei residence at the Gambia of al 
eight months, he returned to England, where, with the aid of 
intelligent natives, he finished his undertaking, and comn : 
to the press a Gram::::: :: the Foola language, and the 
Gospel according t: St. Matthew in Mandingo. 

On taking charge of the Mission at Macarthy's Island, Mr. 
Fox gave ample proof of his zeal :::;". earnestness in the good 
cause in which he was engaged ; and having 1::: his wife, on 
account of the delicate state of her health, in England, and 
being joined by Mr. and Mrs. Swallow, who arrived in Xovem- 
ber, 1S3 7, he felt himself at liberty to take several interest- 
ing journeys into the more remote interior. These journeys 
'::::^::ued at different times to the capitals of TToolie and 
Bpndou, of which he 
account, reporting the wi 
to receive Missionaries. 
thys Island Mission, Mr 
many weighty responsibilities of a seculai kind, in repairing 
and enlarging the Mission premises, and in clearing the 





wards pul 


jlished an interesting 


ami': 


:ess : 


i Kings of these places 


Duri 


.::l' l:s con 


nexion with the Macar- 


Fc: 


l haci. 


:::s labour and 



CHAP. IX. — THIED VOYAGE UP TEE GAMBIA. 197 

•six hundred acres of land granted by Government for the use of 
the Foolas, although they never occupied it. He had, more- 
over, to perform many voyages up and down the river, to 
counsel and assist his junior brethren in seasons of affliction and 
bereavement. These exertions told upon his health and con- 
stitution, strong and robust as they were ; and, finding the need 
of a change, he embarked for England in June, 1S39, accom- 
panied by Mr. and Mrs. Speuce, who had been sent out to 
attend to the secular affairs of the Fooia Mission, but who were 
thus obliged to return home in a few months, in consequence of 
affliction. 

In the mean time, [Mr. and Mrs. Swallow removed to St. 
Mary's, and were succeeded by the Eev. vV. S. E. and Mrs. 
Moss, who arrived at Macarthy's on the 30th of November, 
15b S. On the 2:2nd of January, 1S39, Mrs. Moss fell a sacri- 
j the climate : and her bereaved husband soon afterwards 
came down to St. Man's, and, in the following year, returned 
to England, in a debilitated state of health. Mr. Moss after- 
wards laboured successfully for several years in Jamaica, and 
is now the respected Chairman of the Portsmouth District. 
The vacancy thus occasioned was supplied by the appointment 
of the Eev. William and Mrs. James, who arrived at Macarthy's 
Island in the month of May, 1840; bur the labours of this 
amiable and worthy couple were soon terminated ; for Mr. James 
was cut down by fever on the 1st of July, before he had been 
three months on the Station ; and his bereaved widow embarked 
for England a few weeks afterwards, bavins; received substantial 
tokens of sympathy from the Missionaries and the European 
gentlemen at Sr. Mary's. 

On the expiration of the five years during which Dr. Lindo 
and the Southampton Committee had guaranteed to the Wes- 
ley an Missionary Society the sum of £350 per annum, for the 
support of a Missionary and two Native Teachers at Macarthy's 
Island, that organization was dissolved ; and a new Committee 
was formed in London, consisting of the same parties, with 
some additions, for the special purpose of promoting education 
and civilization ; the support of the Missionaries being left to 
the parent Society. The new Committee was well sustained,. 



198 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

and soon found itself in a position to appropriate a thousand 
pounds for the erection of an Institution in which to educate the 
sons of native Kings and Chiefs. When the build: . 
completed, a few royal pupils were collected : and, although the 
noble design could not be carried out to the extent originally 
contemplated, in consequence of numerous difficulties, we have 
reason to hope that some good resulted from this important 
department of Christian labour. 

The health of Mr. and Mrs. Swallow having been in a mea- 
sure recruited by their visit to England, they returned to the 
Gambia, and arrived at Macarthy's Island in the month of 
January, 1841. In the prosecution of their important Mission, 
these devoted servants of the Lord nobly struggled against the 
influence of the climate ; but, notwithstanding repeated visi 
the Cape Yerd Islands and Goree for a change of air, they 
suffered greatly. They were first bereaved of a dear child : and 
then, on the 2Sth of January, 1S43, Mrs. Swallow was called 
to her reward in heaven ; soon after which her bereaved hus- 
band returned to England, with his own healtli much impaired. 
In the mean time, the Eev. Samuel Symons had been sent out to 
reinforce the Mission, and especially to superintend the educa- 
tional department of the work ; but, after labouring for two 
years with much zeal and earnestness, he also fell a sacrifice to 
the climate, on the 20th of January, 1544. In consequence of 
the sickness and mortality with which the Mission families 
were visited, the Eev. Benjamin Chapman having been obliged 
to return to England in June, 1S46, on account of severe ill- 
ness, the Eev. George Parsonson was left alone for some 
months, the only European Missionary at the Gambia : and 
although his appointment was to Macarthy's Island, lie 
was obliged to remove to St. Mary's, in connexion with which 
he frequently laboured both before his visit to England, and 
after his return to the country in 1845. 

The next Missionary appointed to Macarthy's Island was the 
E-ev. Eobert Lean ; but, in less than four months from the 
time of his arrival, he was called to rest from his labours. He 
died, happy in God, on the 23rd of March, 1848. Since the 
death of this devoted young Missionary, it has been deemed 



CHAP. IX. THIED VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA. 199 

advisable to supply the Station at Macarthy's Island with 
Native Ministers, under the direction of the European Mis- 
sionary at St. Mary's. These have been brought chiefly 
from Sierra Leone ; and by their piety, zeal, and intelli- 
gence, they have given general satisfaction. The Eev. Messrs. 
Joseph May, Charles Knight, Philip Wilson, James Hero, and 
I\ Clement, themselves the fruit of missionary labour, and 
some of them originally rescued from the horrors of slavery, 
have in succession been appointed to labour in connexion with 
this interesting Mission, and have been made a great blessing 
to their fellow countrymen. 

The noble and majestic river Gambia, presenting as it does 
the most direct highway from England to the interior of 
Africa, deserves more attention than it has hitherto received ; 
and we still entertain the hope that our advanced post at 
Macarthy's Island will prove to be the first of a chain of 
Mission Stations, which will ultimately reach from the coast to 
Timbuctoo and Sego, on the banks of the Niger. In the mean 
lime, it is pleasing to know that, notwithstanding the difficulties 
with which they have had to contend, the Missionaries and 
Teachers have not laboured in vain, nor spent their strength for 
nought. I regard it as the highest honour and one of the 
greatest blessings experienced in a long life of missionary 
labour, to have been permitted to plant the Gospel in these dis- 
tant regions. A large number of converted natives have died in 
the faith and hope of the Gospel on this Station ; whilst many 
more have removed to distant places, carrying with them and 
scattering abroad the seed of the kingdom. And there are now 
in connexion with the Wesleyan Missionary Society at Macar- 
thy's Island two chapels, one Missionary , nearly two hundred 
church members, and one hundred and forty-three children in 
the Mission school, whilst upwards of four hundred natives are 
reported as attending the public worship of God. These sta- 
tistics call for sincere gratitude to Almighty God ; but they 
afford a very imperfect idea of the beneficial results of this 
interesting Mission, much good being done, indirectly, by such 
a light shining amid surrounding darkness. 



200 PART I.— -WESTERN AFRICA. 



CHAPTER X. 

MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 

Progress of the Mission at St. Mary's— Soldier's "Wife— Pious Sailor— 
"Wreck of the " Xorval " — African Traveller — Rev. M. B. Cox — Visit 
to Cape St. Mary— Brikow — Daranka— Barra Point — Letter from Dr. 
To wnley— -Farewell Sermon— Letter from Pierre Sallali — Embarkation 
for EDgland — A Man overboard! — Cape Verd Islands — Unpleasant 
Incidents — Land ahead — Arrival at Falmouth — Further Progress of 
St. Mary's Mission — Death of Missionaries — Present State of the Woik 
— Conclusion. 

Whilst anxiously engaged in planting the standard of the 
cross in the more interior districts of Western Africa, we 
were not unmindful of the state of the work at St. Mary's, 
where the Gospel had been preached for many years. The last 
year of our residence there was distinguished by much of the 
Divine presence and blessing ; and our minds were encouraged 
by the evidences which were graciously given by the great Head 
of the Church that our labour was " not in vain in the Lord." 
The schools under our care were generally prosperous ; and a 
number of adults were brought to a knowledge of the truth, 
abandoned their superstitious practices, and, after a course of 
instruction, were received into the Christian church by baptism. 
A few miscellaneous incidents also occurred, which may be 
briefly noticed, as illustrative of the character of the people and 
the nature of our work, before we proceed to sketch the subse- 
quent history of the principal Gambia Mission. 

There is one aspect of the great missionary enterprise which, 
is seldom thought of, but which is nevertheless of great import- 
ance ; namely, the benefit which it frequently confers upon our 
own countrymen whose lot is cast in foreign lands. I witnessed 
some affecting illustrations of the truth of this, while labouring 
at the Gambia. Soon after the commencement of the Mandingo 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 201 

war, I observed in the congregation, one Sabbath morning, a 
white female of respectable appearance, who was very much 
affected under the word. It was the first Sabbath of the year? 
and I was preaching from the parable of the '*' barren fig-tree." 
After the service, she called at the Mission-House, and intro- 
duced herself as the wife of a non-commissioned officer who had 
been called in, with a party of men, from the Island of xiscension, 
to aid in the defence of the colony. I spoke to her on the 
necessity and importance of experimental religion, when she 
wept bitterly ; and, as the tears of penitence flowed from her 
•eyes, she stated that she once knew the Lord, and had formerly 
been a member of the Methodist Society in Yorkshire; but, 
having " made shipwreck of faith and a good conscience," she 
married into the army, and left her native country about four years 
before, since which time she said she had never heard a Gospel 
sermon until that day. While she sobbed as if her heart would 
break, she exclaimed, " I am the barren fig-tree, and deserve to 
be cut down as a cumberer of the ground." I endeavoured to 
point her to the Saviour ; and, whilst we were engaged in fervent 
prayer on her behalf, she received a measure of consolation at 
the hands of God. I only saw her once again after this ; it 
w T as at the soldiers' encampment on the field of battle ; and I 
embraced the opportunity of again exhorting her to look to 
Jesus, when she expressed her full determination to serve the 
Lord. 

On another occasion, I observed an aged white man in the 
congregation, listening with eager attention to the w T ord of life, 
while tears of joy rolled down his furrowed cheeks. Immedi- 
ately after the service, he came up to me, and expressed his 
-gratitude for being permitted once more to worship with the 
people of God. He also fervently prayed that the Lord might 
bless my labours in that dark corner of the earth. This was a 
pious old sailor, belonging to one of the ships of war in the 
harbour, who had thus measured his steps to the sanctuary of 
Jehovah as soon as he was allowed to come on shore. Thus 
w r as I occasionally cheered in my labours, whilst toiling as a 
lonely Missionary in this interesting but long neglected part of 
the world. 



202 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

About this time a melancholy instance of shipwreck occurred 
on the leeward coast. The ship " Nerval," on her passage from 
England to Cape Coast, struck upon a reef of rocks, and was 
dashed to pieces. The passengers and crew took to the boats, 
some of whom landed on the opposite shore, and, according to 
report, were immediately massacred by the savage natives ; 
whilst the others, after being exposed to the most imminent 
danger for three days and three nights, reached the Garnbia?- 
and were saved. The boat in which they escaped entered the 
harbour one evening, just before one of the most awful thunder- 
storms that I ever witnessed. Had they been detained but one 
hour longer outside the harbour, it appeared utterly impossible 
that any of them could have escaped a watery grave. The 
colonists manifested the warmest sympathy for the unfortunate 
individuals who thus landed at St. Mary's. Among the sufferers 
there were a lady and a gentleman, who were kindly received 
and entertained at the Government house. The former, though 
in a state of great exhaustion when she landed, soon regained 
her strength, and returned to England ; but the latter, notwith- 
standing the care and attention bestowed upon him, fell a victim 
to the injuries he had sustained ; and I had to perform the 
melancholy duty of committing his remains to the silent tomb, 
in a land of strangers. 

Shorly after the termination of the Mandingo war, we had a 
visit from an African traveller, Mr. Coulthurst, who had just 
arrived from England, in company with a youthful companion, 
intending to penetrate into the interior, after the example of 
Mungo Park and others. The young man soon grew tired of 
Africa, and prudently returned home by the first vessel which 
sailed for Europe, while Mr. Coulthurst resolved to proceed 
alone. This gentleman entertained peculiar views with regard to 
the geography of Central Africa. Erom the circumstance that 
Herodotus mentions only one great river in Africa, he had 
imbibed the notion that the Niger and the Nile were connected 
by some mysterious and undiscovered channel. The Landers 
having discovered the mouths of the Niger, this traveller pro- 
posed to ascend that river in a canoe, trace its connexion with 
the Nile, down which he intended to sail to the Mediterranean, 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 203 

and return to England with laurels such as his predecessors had 
never won. Though his resources were limited, his expecta- 
tions were very sanguine. He produced a map of Africa, now 
before me, on which he had traced the outlines of his theory ; 
and no argument could convince him of the fallacy of his 
reasoning. His last night at the Gambia was spent with us at 
the Mission-House ; and, finding him still determined to proceed, 
we commended him to God in prayer before we retired to rest. 
The next day he took his departure for the Bight of Benin, 
having obtained a passage on board a British man-of-war. A 
few months afterwards we heard that poor Mr. Coulthurst 
ascended one of the rivers, was taken ill with fever, returned to 
the man-of-war, and died in a few days, having scarcely entered 
upon the project he had so vainly imagined. 

We were next favoured with a visit from the Eev. Melville 
B. Cox, an American Missionary connected with the Methodist 
Episcopal Church, who was on his way to Liberia, in a vessel 
called the " Jupiter." He remained with us a week or ten 
days, and appeared much pleased both with the country and 
our Mission. He was a pious, devoted, and intelligent Minister* 
possessing the genuine missionary spirit ; but he was of a deli- 
cate, feeble constitution, and not at all adapted for the hard- 
ships of missionary life in a West African climate, in my 
opinion. There were also on board the " Jupiter " a number of 
coloured emigrants, several of whom were pious persons, and 
who came on shore once or twice to worship with us at St* 
Mary's. Our native members manifested a deep interest in this 
servant of Christ and His people ; and on their departure they 
were followed by many fervent prayers for their success. Mr. 
Cox was the first American Methodist Missionary sent to 
Liberia. He was possessed of enlarged views and enthusiastic 
feelings in reference to the work in which he was about to 
engage ; and talked familiarly of planting one Mission at Sego, 
and another at Timbuctoo, on the banks of the Niger. But his 
course was soon run. He had only been in Africa a few 
months, and had scarcely marked out his plans of usefulness, 
when he was called to his reward.* When the intelligence of 

The Rev. M. B. Cox thus recorded his views of the place and of the 
state of the Mission when he visited the Gambia ; and being the testimony 



204 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

his death reached the Gambia, we felt much affected ; and were 
obliged to fall back once more on the divinely-inspired declara- 
tion, " Shall not the Judge of all the earth do right ? '' 

During the last year of our residence at the Gambia, I visited 
several places on the mainland, in the neighbourhood of St. 
Mary's, for the purpose of obtaining information relative to the 
people and the country, preparatory to the introduction of the 
Gospel into those districts, so soon as means should be avail- 
able for that purpose. My attention was first directed to Cape 
St. Mary's, the most western point of land on the southern 
bank of the Gambia. It forms an elevated promontory, the 
base of which is washed by the Atlantic Ocean. I set out for 
this place one morning, accompanied by my friend Charles 
Grant, Esq. We had a pleasant ride along the beach for about 
three miles, till we came to the Oyster Creek, where an amus- 
ing incident occurred, though it was the occasion of some little 

of a stranger, found among his papers after his decease, and published by 
his friends in America, it will be read with interest. " Bathurst is a beauti- 
ful little village on the south of the River Gambia. It is a place of con- 
siderable trade, and must ultimately become one of great commercial inter- 
est. The cause of the Redeemer here is yet in its infancy; but a good 
foundation, I trust, is laying. The confidence of the natives in its excel- 
lency is every day increasing, and Christianity evidently holds an ascendancy 
in the place that will justify the hope of great ultimate success. The Wes- 
leyan Mission is doing well. The station is under the charge of the Rev. 
W. Moister, a devoted servant of Christ. He has endured his two years' 
toil with far better health than he expected. Several have been added to 
his charge the last year, and he has now about eighty native communicants. 
At Macarthy's Island this Mission has another station, now under the 
charge of a Native Preacher, who promises great success to the church." 
In reference to the Mission generally, he says, " It must of necessity, with 
the blessing of God, exert a mighty influence on the wilderness of Africa. 
The school at Bathurst far exceeded my expectations. Under the fostering 
care of both Mr. and Mrs. Moister, who have taken a deep interest in 
instructing the scholars, it refutes the pitiful slander that the black man, 
under similar circumstances, is inferior in intellect to the white. Mauy of 
them read with propriety and ease the English and Jalloff, and speak the 
one almost as well as the other. They write well, read well, and commit 
admirably. Our Wesleyan brethren have shown their wisdom in selecting 
this as a point of moral effort for Western Africa. I rejoice that so powerful 
a lever is found here." — " Remains of the Rev. M. B. Cox." 






CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 205 

inconvenience to ns. On reaching the bank of the stream, we 
dismounted, intending that our horses should swim, one on 
either side of the canoe, into which we entered. We proceeded 
very comfortably, until my pony seemed inclined to surpass us 
in speed. Not wishing to check him in his progress, I incauti- 
ously gave him the rein, hoping to avail myself of his services 
on the other side ; but the sagacious little fellow no sooner 
found himself at liberty, than he turned directly round, and 
swam back to the shore we had just left. After making several 
attempts to induce him to cross, but without success, I sent 
him home by a Negro boy who had accompanied us thus far, 
and my friend and I continued our journey with one horse,, 
walking and riding alternately. 

About ten o'clock a.m., we came to Erikow, the Mandingo 
town near the Cape. According to African etiquette, we went 
immediately to pay our respects to the Alcaide, or Headman? 
whom we found sitting on a mat at the door of his hut, busily 
engaged in cutting tobacco leaves into fine shreds, for the pur- 
pose of drying them in. the sun to make into snuff, an enor- 
mous quantity of which he was in the habit of using. Fastened 
to his side he had a snuff-box, made of pieces of hollow bam- 
boo cane, beautifully carved. Attached to the lid there was an 
ivory spoon, by which he conveyed the precious powder to his 
extended nostrils. This is the usual mode of taking snuff in 
Africa. It is also often used for rubbing the teeth, and gives 
them a pearly whiteness. The old Alcaide had, nevertheless* 
a very venerable appearance. He wore a long beard, which, 
with his curly locks, was as white as wool. His dress con- 
sisted of a pang thrown round his waist, a red woollen cap on 
his head, and a few greegrees hung round his neck and arms. 
In conversation he was free and affable, and expressed himself 
as willing to send his children, should a Mission school be 
established in the neighbourhood. We then walked through 
the town, which is rather extensive. In its centre stands the 
mosque, built of mud and thatched with grass, as are most of 
the huts in the place. Near the town we saw a large trap for 
catching lions, leopards, tigers, hyaenas, and other wild animals, 
which abound in this district. This contrivance is very com- 



206 PAUT I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

mon in Africa. The trap is constructed on the principle of an 
ordinary wire mouse-trap, and is composed of a number of 
strong stakes, fixed in the ground in a circular form, leaving a 
narrow entrance, the bait being placed in the inside. "When 
the animal has once entered, it cannot escape ; and the natives 
surround the cage in the morning, and easily destroy their 
victim with their guns. 

About half a mile from Brikow there is a stone building, two 
stories high, erected by Government on the promontory facing 
the Atlantic, as a place of resort for convalescent officers and 
merchants, who might need a change of air in the sickly season. 
It appears to be well adapted for this purpose, being situated 
on a beautifully elevated situation, and commanding a fine sea 
view. At the time of our visit, however, the house was in a 
very dilapidated condition. To this place we were followed by 
a number of natives, who supplied us with milk and eggs, and 
who continued begging, as usual, for every thing they saw, 
although they had been well paid for the articles w r e purchased 
of them. 

Having taken some refreshment, and gazed for some time 
with feelings of delight upon the vast ocean, as its rolling 
billows broke on the rocky beach beneath the eminence on 
which we stood, we walked about three miles through the 
neighbouring forest to visit the " hemp farm," an experimental 
enterprise of the " Gambia Agricultural Society." Embosomed 
in the wood we found a neat little village, inhabited by liberated 
Africans. The men were labouring with some measure of suc- 
cess in cultivating the hemp, which is an indigenous plant in 
that c untry. On returning to the Cape, I saw the remains of 
a plough, and other agricultural implements, lying in the grass, 
which had been brought there by some members of the Society 
of Friends, who made an unsuccessful attempt, several years ago, 
to introduce the arts of civilized life among this people.* The 

* This philanthropic attempt to benefit the Negro race was made about 
the year 1823, by a Committee of the Society of Friends. William Single- 
ton, Richard Smith, and John Thompson and his wife, were sent out in 
company with Mrs. Kilham, who had previously visited the coast of Africa. 
In this case, as in maey others, the great barrier to success was the climate. 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 207 

day being far spent, we now set out on our return to Bathurst, 
re-crossed the Oyster Creek without much difficulty, and reached 
home about eight o'clock p.m., much interested with the 
excursion, and with an impression that the situation of Brikow 
was favourable for a Mission station, when circumstances 
would allow us to extend our labours in that direction. 

My next visit to the mainland was to a place called Daranka, 
situated on the southern side of the river, above St. Mary's, and 
in the territory of the King of Comba. On Monday, the 15th 
of April, 1833, at the kind invitation of Mr. and Mrs. God- 
dard, Mrs. Moister and I partook luncheon at their residence 
in Bathurst, in company with his Excellency Governor Eendall, 
and a few other friends ; we then took a large canoe, and, after 
a delightful sail of about three hours, entered the creek leading 
to Mr. 'Joiner's farm, where we arrived about sunset. The 
scenery on every hand was truly delightful ; and we were much 

The two females were the only persons of this party who lived to return to 
England ; their companions having died a few months after their arrival in 
Africa. Mrs. Kilhani continued to visit the coast for several years after- 
wards ; and her labours in superintending schools and other benevolent 
engagements were made a great blessing in Sierra Leone and other places. 
In the kindness of her heart, she took under her care Sandanee, from 
Goree, and Mahmadee, from the Gambia, whom she met in London, whither 
they had gone as common sailors. She educated these Negro youths, with. 
the hope that they might be useful to their fellow countrymen on their 
return to Africa, by imparting to them the knowledge which they had thus 
acquired. But I regret to state that these anticipations were disappointed 
by the return of these natives, soon afterwards, to all the heathenish prac- 
tices to which they had been formerly addicted ; proving to a demonstration 
that nothing but the grace of God can change the heart, and that nothing 
but the Gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ can prepare the way for true civili- 
zation. In the year 183.2 I saw Mahmadee in the interior. He had then 
become a Mohammedan, and was attired in his native dress, and decorated 
with greegrees, the same as the rest of his sable brethren. He retired at my 
approach, as if conscious of his ingratitude and sin ; but I followed him into the 
bush, and remonstrated with him, and implored him to turn to the Lord. Mrs. 
Kilham died at sea, in the course of the same year, while on her passage 
from Liberia to Sierra Leone, whither she had been in pursuit of the blessed 
work which was so dear to her heart. This melancholy event occurred 
shortly after she had written to me a very gratifyiug letter respecting our 
schools at the Gambia, in which she took a lively interest. 



208 PART I. — "WESTERN AFRICA. 

amused witli the sportive gambols of the monkeys, as they were 
leaping and chattering among the trees in every direction. On 
the approach of night we retired to rest in a rude habitation 
built of bamboo canes ; but sleep was quite out of the question, 
in consequence of the swarms of mosquitoes which infested the 
place. When at home, we defended ourselves in some measure 
from the stings of those troublesome insects by having the bed 
furnished with a net curtain, which w r e let down and tucked in 
every night, after having fanned out every buzzing intruder 
with a towel. In the present instance, however, we were left 
without any defence ; and were doomed to spend a sleepless 
night, being engaged in a constant but useless combat with 
our little enemies. 

We arose early next morning, and took a ramble on the 
neighbouring hills, from which w r e had a charming prospect. 
We then set out for Lamin, a place about tw T o miles from 
Daranka, where the Governor had located a number of liberated 
Africans, and commenced a brick manufactory, as an indus- 
trial experiment for their benefit. The path lay through a 
grove of lofty trees, which formed a beautiful shady avenue. 
On arriving at the appointed place, we joined the Governor 
and a large party of friends, and we took breakfast together in 
a shady bower, prepared with considerable taste for the occa- 
sion. Daring the day, we inspected the brick works ; and were 
much pleased with the evidences w 7 hich we beheld of the 
industry and success of the people in this new department of 
labour. In the afternoon, we walked about a mile to see a 
beautiful little stream of running water, a sight which we had not 
before witnessed during our residence in Africa, and which re- 
minded us of the charming rivulets in our native land. On 
returning to Daranka, we embarked for St. Mary's; where 
we arrived before dark, having been much delighted wdth our 
excursion. 

In addition to the manufacture of bricks, the cultivation of 
hemp, and other industrial pursuits, incidentally mentioned as 
indicative of the progress of civilization at the Gambia, I may 
observe that experiments have been made in the growth and 
cultivation of indigo, cotton, sugar, and tobacco, with some 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 209 

ee o: success, and should the climate become more healthy 
by the clearing of the land, these productions, with many other 
valuable articles, might soon become important items in the 
exports of a country possessing a soil so peculiarly fertile. 
The natives manifest considerable aptitude in the acquirement of 
mechanical arts ; and by proper instruction they would doubt- 
:■ rapid advancement in every branch of useful know- 
ledge. Experience has proved, howc rt for their 
temporal benefit will be of permanent advantage without a due 
regard to the elevating truths of Christianity. 

On Saturday, the 2 5th of May, 1S33, the Missionaries and 
their wives, just arrived from England, accompanied us to 
Barra the scene of the late inga war. Previous to 

our departure we took breakfast, by invitation, with J. I. S. 
Finden, Esq., a respectable merchant at Bathurst, and son of 
the celebrated engraver of the same name in London, who had 
kindly offered to favour us with a trip across the river in his 
little cutter. After a pleasant sail of about an hour we reached 

opposite shore. TV"e rested for a short time, and then, 

ag the ladies at Port Bullon, Mr. Eox, Mr. Dove, and 
I, walked up with Mr. Finden to Tassou, for the purpose of 
paying our respects to King Brum a. The ground over which 
we passed, and the trees on either hand, bore evident marks of 
the late contest. We found the town still surrounded by a 
strong stockade, through which we entered by a narrow door. 
After passing through several dirty a narrow streets, we came to 
the entrance c: al residence. It was a square tower, built 

of mud, the interior of which was a kind of hall, having the walls 
ornamented with various figures rudely carved and painted. I 
also observed in this room a few common English prints, among 
which were the portraits of Wellington and other men of renown. 
After waiting for some time in this place, we were conducted 
through a courtyard to an ordinary mud-walled hut, on entering 
which we were introduced at once to the King. His sable Maj 
was not seated upon a throne, but reclining upon a couch, in a 

of beastly intoxication. With the assistance of his Coun- 
cillors he raised himself up to receive us with true African 
etiquette. He was not capable of much conversation ; and we 

p 



210 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

had not been long in his presence before I saw him put his 
hand under the couch, and take out an old English tea kettle. 
This was the King's decanter, in which he kept his rum. He 
first drank out of the spout himself, and then poured a quantity 
of the " fire-water 55 into a calabash, and offered it to us ; but 
we respectfully declined the favour. We were soon surrounded 
by several of the King's wives and Councillors, and a number 
of naked children, begging for rum. The calabash was handed 
round among them, and they drank freely,- as if they were accus- 
tomed to this kind of beverage. We attempted to explain to 
the King the object of our Mission to Africa, which he pro- 
nounced to be " very good, 55 whilst in reality he seemed to 
care nothing about it. On our departure he made us a present 
of a large calabash of honey, and in return we gave him a few 
pieces of silver. This did not appear to satisfy him, however; 
for lie begged for everything he saw about us, even for a pen- 
knife which we Lad occasion to use in his presence. At length 
we took our leave of the old King, thoroughly disgusted with 
such a specimen of African royalty, and deeply impressed with 
the moral degradation of those who have never been favoured 
with the light of the Gospel.* On returning to Fort Bullon, 
we embarked for St. Mary's, where we arrived before sunset ; 
and after dinner we spent a pleasant evening with our friend Mr. 
Grant, in religious and general conversation, as Ave had often 
done before. 

About this time I received the following letter from the Rev. 
Dr. Townley, who had recently retired from the office of Mis- 
sionary Secretary, but w T ho still felt a deep interest in the 
prosperity of the work of God in foreign lands. I have pleasure 
in placing it on record, not only because of the relation it bears 
to the blessed work in which I was engaged, but also as an 
interesting relic of a dear servant of God, who was scon after- 
wards called to rest from his labours : — 

* Soon after our arrival in England we heard of the death of the old King 
Bruma. According to the accounts we received of this event, he met 
with an untimely end. His people being weary, of his rule, and of his disso- 
lute life, they fell upon him and massacred him in his hut, and his son 
succeeded him as King of Barra. 



CHAP. X. MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 211 

"Ramsgate, Kent, February oth, 1833. 

" My dear Brother, — When your kind present of shells and 
manuscripts arrived, I was suffering from a severe illness, of such 
-a nature as to render my recovery exceedingly doubtful, — an 
illness evidently brought on by anxiety and over-exertion, 
having been first affected with it at the close of ray President- 
ship at the Leeds Conference ; but from which I had, I hoped, 
partially recovered. It is now a year since it returned with so 
much violence as to render it necessary for me to relinquish 
active duties ; and at the last Conference I was compelled, by 
my debilitated state, to yield to sit down as Supernumerary 
Preacher. Contrary to all human expectation I still survive, 
and appear, though slowly, to convalesce, whilst my esteemed 
brethren, Messrs. Watson and James, have both been called 
-away by death since the Conference ; besides Dr. Adam Clarke, 
Mr. T. Stanley, Mr. Storey, and many others ; in all seventeen. 
'This is the Lord's doing;' and it is cause of astonishment 
that, whilst others more likely for life are called away, I am 
spared. O that it may be for His glory ! 

" I hope you and Mrs. Moister are both well, and doing well. 
I am sincerely obliged to you for the shells and manuscripts. 
Unfortunately, I do not understand Arabic ; and will therefore 
thank you to give me the particulars of their contents, and the 
manner in which they came into your possession. I am aware 
that some of the Mohammedans can read Arabic, and possess 
the Psalms, as well as the Koran, in that language. By whom 
were the manuscripts written ? and are such manuscripts in 
great repute among the people ? I shall be obliged by any par- 
ticulars you can give me of the character, habits, and customs 
of the native tribes around you. I shall also thank you for any 
information relative to the productions of the country, — animal, 
vegetable, and mineral, — and for any remarks on the soil and 
climate. Do you know much about the colony of Liberia, and 
the progress it is making ? How are Cupidon and Sallah get- 
ting on ? Are they efficient helps ? Do the schools prosper ? 
How are they doing in Sierra Leone? I rejoice that your 
labours have not been in vain in the Lord. Be assured that 
you and Mrs. Moister are not forgotten by us at the throne of 

p 2 



212 PAET I. — WESTEK>' AFRICA. 

grace. With my kind love to you both, in which I am joined 
by my dear wife, I am 

" Yours affectionately, 

" James Towxley." 
"To Bev. IF. Moister." 

I had great pleasure in forwarding* to the venerable Doctor 

such information as I could collect on the various subjects in 
which he manifested such a lively interest : but, before my com- 
munication reached England, he had been called to his reward 
in heaven. I received, however, an affectionate acknowledgment 
from his bereaved widow ; who expressed herself as sympa- 
thizing sincerely with her dear departed husband, in his earnest 
desire to promote the extension of the kingdom of Christ in 
heathen lands. 

About two months after the arrival of the Missionaries and 
their wives, who were sent out to relieve us, a favourable 
opportunity presented itself for our return to England; and we 
prepared for our departure. Though very weak and debilitated 
by the effects of the climate, and the repeated attacks of fever 
through which we had been called to pass, we felt truly thank- 
ful to our heavenly Father that we had been spared in the land 
of the living, whilst so many had fallen. On Tuesday evening, 
the ISth of June, 1S33, I preached for the last time at Bathurst, 
to a crowded and deeply affected congregation. Several wept 
aloud : and it was with great difficulty that I continued the 
exercises. At the close of the service the people crowded 
around the Mission-House 3 and seemed unwilling to leave till 
we informed them that several days would elapse before we 
should take our departure, in the course of which they would 
have an opportunity of seeing us again. The remaining period 
oi our stay at the Gambia was occupied chiefly in paying and 
receiving farewell visits : many of the natives testified their 
affection by bringing small presents of poultry and provisions, 
for our use during the passage ; and some who had received 
instruction in the Mission school, tried their skill at writing fare- 
well addresses. The following specimen is from the pen of Pierre 
Sallah; an outline of whose history has already been given: — 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 213 

" St. Mary's, Jane 20t/i, 1833. 

" Rev. and dear Sir, — I cannot let this opportunity pass 
without addressing to you these few lines, because I am very 
glad to tell you what the Lord has done for me since you buy 
my freedom. The Lord has done great things for me. He 
delivered me from trouble, and brought me among His people ; 
and they taught me to read and write, for which I am thankful. 
I know that Jesus Christ died for me, and that He has saved 
me from my sins; I feel that I love Him, and I rejoice to do 
His will. I look only to the Lord God of Elijah, the God of 
Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, and Moses. I shall never forget 
your kindness to me, and I hope the Lord will repay you. May 
the Lord bless the Missionary Society, and all Preachers of the 
Gospel ! May the Lord go with you ; and may we all meet in 
heaven, where we shall part no more for ever ! I am 

M Your humble servant in the Gospel, 

" Pierre Sallah/' 

"To Rev. W. Moister." 

On Saturday, the 22nd of June, 1833, we embarked for 
England by the brigantine "Columbine," commanded by Cap- 
tain Pilcher. Many of our dear people accompanied us to the 
beach, and wept bitterly at the thought that they would pro- 
bably see us no more in this world. We commended them to 
God in prayer, and reluctantly took our leave of a place and 
a people that will live in our affectionate remembrance until the 
day of our death. Our feelings of regret at leaving the Gambia 
were enhanced, not only by the circumstance of its being the 
first scene of our missionary labours, but by the fact that we 
tad received marks of kindness from all classes of the commu- 
nity, with whom we had lived in harmony and love during the 
whole period of our appointment. "\Ye were accompanied down 
the river by Mr. and Mrs. Fox, Mrs. Dove, (Mr. Dove having 
left for Macarthy's Island,) Messrs. Finden, Brown, and other 
friends, who kindly remained with us as long as they could, and 
then returned to St. Mary's, in Mr, Brown's little schooner, 
which was in attendance, whilst we kept on our course in the 
i: Columbine " towards our native land. 



214 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

Our passage home was peculiarly eventful ; and we saw, inr 
many instances, the hand of God clearly displayed. When we 
had been at sea about a week, while seated in the cabin one 
evening, conversing with the Captain, we heard the startling 
cry of " A man overboard ! " Instantly we ran up on deck, and 
found that Mr. Orme, the chief mate, while in the act of hook- 
ing on the " boom guy," had lost his hold of the rope, and 
fallen into the sea. The wind was blowing fresh at the time, 
and we could just see the poor man astern of the vessel, strug- 
gling in the water. Having no boat or life-buoy available, we 
threw out two or three hen-coops, hoping that he might cling 
to one of them until further assistance could be afforded. In 
the mean time the helm was put " hard down," and the vessel 
<c went about." On getting the ship round to the scene of the 
disaster, a noble-minded sailor, an Irishman, volunteered to jump 
into the sea, to rescue the dying man. We tied a rope round 
his waist, and he plunged into the water. Although it was very 
rough, he succeeded in reaching the poor sufferer before he 
finally sank. We then drew them both in together : but I 
regret to say that the poor mate had breathed his last, and all 
the efforts we could make to restore animation proved ineffectual. 
He had been previously suffering from an attack of African 
fever ; consequently he was in a state of weakness and debility 
when this sad accident occurred. It is not surprising, therefore, 
that it resulted in death. During the day, I had been conversing 
with Mr. Orme on the subject of religion ; and his sudden re- 
moval from us deeply impressed my mind with the importance 
of embracing every opportunity of speaking a word for Christ ; 
for, " in such an hour as we think not, the Son of Man cometh." 

Then followed the solemn spectacle of a funeral at sea. As 
we had no means of making a coffin, the remains of our departed 
friend were wrapped in his hammock, with a heavy weight 
attached, so that the body might sink below the reach of the 
sharks, which were already pursuing our track. The corpse 
was then placed upon a plank, partly projecting over the bul- 
warks of the vessel. It was the gloomy hour of midnight, and 
a death-like stillness prevailed. Nothing was to be heard but 
the gentle ripple of the water against the side of the ship, and. 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS 215 

the half suppressed sighs and sobs of the hardy sailors, who 
stood in a circle, hat in hand, while I read, by the light of a 
lantern, the solemn service appointed for the occasion. While 
reading the words, "We therefore commit his body to the deep," 
Sec, one end of the plank was elevated, and the corpse gently 
. descended into the watery grave, to be seen no more till the 
morning of the resurrection, when the " sea shall give up the 
dead that are therein." A few words of exhortation closed this 
deeply solemn and impressive service ; and we retired to our 
berths seriously reflecting on the uncertainty of life, and of all 
earthly things. 

As we proceeded on our course, we had a clear view of seve- 
ral of the Cape Yerd Islands ; and we were favoured with 
tolerably fine weather, though the wind was rather against us. 
We also suffered some inconvenience from want of hands ; as, in 
addition to the loss of the mate, several of the sailors were still 
confined to their berths, from the effects of the African fever. 
As soon as we got out to sea, I found my own health improved 
so rapidly, that I was able to take the helm when the ship was 
to be "put about;" and in some measure to assist the Captain 
in his trying circumstances. 

When we had been at sea about three weeks, it was discovered 
that we had a very scanty supply of fire-wood on board ; and 
we had serious apprehensions that we should soon be without 
the means of cooking our food. Whilst discussing* this unplea- 
sant subject, we saw at a distance a large log of timber, floating 
on the water. We steered towards it, got ready the tackle^ 
hoisted it on board, and were thus supplied with an ample stock 
of fire-wood during the remaining part of our voyage. The 
infidel might regard this circumstance as a matter of mere 
chance ; but we considered it as a distinct interposition of 
Divine Providence on our behalf, and rendered thanks to cur 
heavenly Father for His watchful care over us. Adhering to the 
wood were thousands of barnacles with beautiful shells, which 
afforded us the agreeable and interesting employment of clean- 
ing and arranging them, as curiosities for our friends at home. 

The next adventure was the helmsman asleep at his post, the 
"ship-aback," and the wheel dashed to pieces, which required 



216 PAKT I. WESTERN AFRICA. 

our united skill and labour for several hours to put it in repair. 
During this interval we were exposed to some danger, as we 
were not only " short-handed," but the accident occurred in the 
night time, when the temporary arrangement for steering the vessel 
till the wheel was mended was attended with some difficulty. 

An incident occurred also, on the 31st of July, which excited 
some alarm on board for a time, which in the end proved to 
have been unnecessary. At midnight we were awoke with the 
melancholy cry of " The ship's sprung a leak !" We immedi- 
ately arose from our berths, to see what was the matter ; and 
were informed by the Captain that the vessel had five and a 
half feet of water in the hold ; and that in consequence of the 
pumps being choked up there appeared to be little hope of 
saving her. The excitement that prevailed on board was inde- 
scribable. The Captain himself w T as much concerned, having 
a valuable cargo on board, consisting of gold, ivory, bees'-wax, 
and gum-arabic, besides two lions, a crocodile, crown-birds, and 
other natural curiosities. The sick men crawled from their 
hammocks ; and all hands came on deck. Amidst the general 
commotion some were heard crying to God for mercy. The long 
boat was got ready, and we put on our warm clothing, that we 
might be the better prepared to leave the ship and spend the 
night in the boat in the open sea in case of necessity. But after 
all this alarm, to our inexpressible joy, the sailors succeeded in 
the removing the obstruction from the bottom of the pumps, the 
water was soon cleared from the hold of the vessel ; and as the 
ship appeared to have received no serious injury, we proceeded 
on our course as before. 

On the whole our passage to England on this occasion 
was dreary and trying rather than really perilous. The little 
incidents just mentioned excited us only for the moment, and 
the unpleasantness connected w r ith them soon passed away. 
Captain Pilcher was kind and attentive ; and I and my dear 
wife being the only passengers on board, we enjoyed the oppor- 
tunity with which we were thus favoured for reading and con- 
versation. As we had either light winds or calms nearly all the 
time, our progress was very slow ; and having lost most of our 
poultry in attempting to save the poor mate, we began to feel 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 217 

the want of fresh provisions. When we had been at sea about 
six weeks, and were approaching the mouth of the English 
Channel, we fell in with several ships, one of which supplied 
us with a bucket of potatoes and a couple of fowls, for which 
we were very grateful. 

On the morning of Monday, the 12th of August, we heard 
the cheering sound of " Land a-head !" We instantly came on 
deck, and beheld with feelings of gratitude and joy the distant 
blue mountains of dear Old England. On the following day a 
pilot boat came alongside ; and as the wind was contrary, and 
our provisions nearly exhausted, I engaged a passage for myself 
and Mrs. Moister to the shore, and we took our leave of the 
"Columbine"* and her kind-hearted Captain, whom we hoped 
to meet again in London. We were tossed about all night in 
the pilot boat ; but on Wednesday morning, the 14th, we 

* The subsequent history of this little vessel is oue of mournful interest. 
She continued to trade to the coast of Africa for a few years ; till on the 
2?th of November, 1838, when on her voyage down the Channel, bound for 
the Gambia, she encountered a terrific gale of wind off Portland Bill. The 
gale continued during the night ; and on the following morning the 
i( Columbine" was seen nearing the shore on Portland Beach. The man in 
•charge of the helm, it is supposed, was forced from it by the violence of the 
wind, in consequence of which the vessel swung round ; and, being caught 
between two tremendous waves, she was dashed in pieces almost instan- 
taneously, and every person on board perished. Among the passengers 
were the Rev. Edward J. and Mrs. Peard, a Wesley an Missionary and his 
wife, appointed to St. Mary's, who were thus removed to a " better country" 
by this mysterious dispensation of Divine Providence. Their bodies having 
'been washed on shore and identified, Dr. Alder went down and improved the 
solemn event by an impressive sermon ; and their remains were interred in 
the burial-ground connected with the Wesleyan chapel at Portland, where a 
neat stone with an inscription was erected to their memory by the members 
of Society at that place. When on a visit to Portland, on the 23rd of 
October, 1849, to attend a Missionary Meeting, I had the melancholy plea- 
sure of viewing the scene of this sad disaster, and of reading the inscription 
•on the gravestone of the dear Missionary and his beloved wife. On making 
:an allusion to the circumstance in my address at the meeting, and stating 
.that I had sailed for thousands of miles in the same " Columbine," the 
peop 1 ^ were much affected, and kindly presented me with a small cedar box, 
-as a memento, which I highly prize, it being made from a piece of the 
wreck of the ill-fated vessel. 



218 PAET I. WESTERN AFEICA. 

entered the harbour of Falmouth. Never shall we forget the 
cheering sight which now greeted our eyes, so long accus- 
tomed to gaze on the dreary wilds of Africa, and on the 
mighty ocean. The fields were waving with corn, and the 
whole face of nature wore a smiling aspect. With feelings of 
sincere gratitude to our heavenly Father for His preserving good- 
ness, we once more set our feet upon the shores of our dear 
native land, and received a cordial welcome from the liev. 
George Taylor and his amiable family, then resident in Fal- 
mouth, who showed us no small kindness on the occasion. In 
the evening we proceeded by coach to London, and thenc to 
the north of England ; and on meeting with us once more in 
peace and in safety, after our perilous Mission to Western Africa, 
the directors of the Wesley an Missionary Society, as well as our 
personal friends, rejoiced with us that our lives had been so 
mercifully preserved while so many had fallen a sacrifice to the 
climate. Nor were we, I trust, wanting in gratitude and praise 
to our heavenly Father, for His goodness and mercy, as dis- 
played in our wonderful preservation. I could sing then, as I 
can now, in review of the past, with an overflowing heart : — 

" When all thy mercies, O my God, 
My rising soul surveys, 
Transported with the view, I 'm lost 
In wonder, love, and praise." 

Before we bring these memorials of providence and grace to- 
a close, we must request the reader's attention to a brief sketch 
of the subsequent history of the principal Mission station on 
the river Gambia. 

Cheering as was the success of the Missions at St. Mary's, 
during the time that the writer was connected with it, he has 
pleasure in stating that it was still more so in the hands of 
his worthy successor. The Eev. W. Fox entered upon his 
duties at the Gambia in the true spirit of a Missionary ; and,, 
during the first year of his appointment, upwards of one hun- 
dred members were added to the church. Several small chapels 
and preaching-places were erected and opened in the villages 
on the island, as well as at Barra Point on the mainland. This- 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 219 

enlargement of the work was called for by the arrival of several 
hundreds of liberated Africans from Sierra Leone to be located 
at the Gambia. In the following year the congregation at 
Bathurst had increased to such an extent that the erection of 
a new chapel was absolutely necessary ; and the Missionary Com- 
mittee having generously granted £500 towards the object, the 
foundation stone was laid by His Excellency Lieutenant Gover- 
nor Kendal, on the 3rd of December 1834, in the presence of a 
large concourse of people. On the 23rd of February, 1835, the 
Mission was reinforced by the arrival from England of the 
Kev. Henry and Mrs. Wilkinson; and Mr. and Mrs. Eox, being 
thus relieved of their charge, took a voyage to the Cape Verd 
Islands for the benefit of their health. Such was the attach- 
ment and devotedness of Mr. Pox to his beloved work that he 
was desirous of remaining another year at the Gambia ; but his 
health, and that of his dear wife, still continuing in a very pre- 
carious stace, they embarked for England on the 30th of July 3 
having previously taken a part in the interesting services con- 
nected with the opening of the new chapel on the 5th of the 
same month. 

In the year 1837, the Western Coast of Africa was visited by 
that awful scourge the yellow fever ; and more than one half the 
European residents at St. Mary's were removed by death. One 
of these was the zealous and devoted Missionary, Mr. Wilkin- 
son, who died happy in God, and somewhat suddenly, on the 
24th of August. On the following day he was buried in the 
chapel, in front of the pulpit from which he had, on the previous 
Sabbath, preached from that striking text : — " So teach us 
to number our days that we may apply our hearts unto 
wisdom;" (Psalm xc. 12;) and given out that solemn hymn, 
beginning — 

"And must this body die? 

This well-wrought frame decay ? 
And must these active limbs of mine 
Lie mouldering in the clay?" 

The Eev, Thomas Wall was immediately sent out from Eng- 
land to supply the vacancy thus occasioned at St. Mary's. He 
arrived on the 26th of November, in company with Mr. and 



220 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

Mrs. Swallow, who were appointed for Macarthy's Island. The 
zealous labours of Mr. Wall were soon terminated, however ; he 
finished his course with joy, on the 24th of August, 1838, pre- 
cisely twelve months after the death of his predecessor. The 
station was now supplied for a time by Mr. Swallow, who came 
down, with his wife, from Macarthy's on the death of Mr. Wall ; 
but they were both in a weak state of health, and, deriving little 
or no benefit from a trip to Goree, they were obliged to return 
to England soon afterwards. 

The next Missionary appointed for St. Mary's was the Eev. 
E. J. Peard, who, with Mrs. Peard, embarked for Africa on 
the 23rd of November, 183 8. This devoted couple were 
destined, in the order of Providence, never to set their feet on 
Mission ground ; for the "Columbine," in which they sailed, 
being overtaken by a severe storm in the English Channel, was 
driven on shore, on the Chesil Bank, near Weymouth, and 
became a total wreck, when every soul on board perished. The 
bodies of the Missionary and his wdfe having been washed up 
and identified, they were interred at Portland, as stated in a 
previous page. The Eev. James and Mrs. Parkinson arrived 
at St. Mary's on the 13th of December; but before they had 
been nine months in the colony, they were both cut down by 
fever, under circumstances peculiarly affecting. Mr. Parkinson 
finished his brief but active course on the 8th of September, 
1839 ; and his wife followed him to a better country four days 
afterwards, having never been made acquainted with her sad 
bereavement, for fear the intelligence might be more than she 
could bear. But this tale of w T oe does not end here. A 
tender infant w T as left, which w r as soon afterwards sent to 
England, with the hope that its life might be saved; but it 
died on the passage, and so escaped from this world of sin 
and sorrow to join the society of its sanctified parents in 
heaven. 

The Eev. W. Eox, having visited England, after several years 
spent on the Gambia, chiefly in connexion with the new Mission 
at Macarthy's Island, now returned to Africa ; accompanied by 
Mrs. Fox, and their little son, as w r ell as by the Eev. Mr. and Mrs. 
James, and the Eev. Mr. English ; the former of whom proceeded 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 221 

to their appointed station at Macarthy's Island, and the latter, 
being soon afterwards removed to the "West Indies, laboured 
but for a short time at St. Mary's. A trained School Teacher 
having been sent out from England, Mr. Pox was authorized 
to erect a commodious school-house, and otherwise to extend 
the Mission ; but in the midst of his zealous labours he was 
overtaken by the most afflictive bereavements. On the 7th of 
September, 1840, Mrs. Pox sank under the influence of fever, 
four days after giving birth to a daughter; their little son 
having been called away by death only a week before. Thus 
was the poor Missionary left a lonely widower, with the care 
of a new-born infant on his hands. The little orphan was sent 
to England, in charge of Mr. Moss, who was obliged to return 
home early in the year 1541, having himself been bereaved of 
his beloved partner. Notwithstanding his repeated afflictions 
and bereavements, Mr. Pox nobly continued at his post for 
some time longer, and only returned to England finally in the 
month of May, 1843, after spending ten years in connexion 
with the Gambia Missions. Por a full account of his success- 
ful labours and travels on the coast, and in the interior, we 
have pleasure in referring the reader to his interesting work on 
"Western Africa. Mr. Eox was accompanied to England by 
Mr. Swallow, who was spared to fulfil a second term of service 
on the Gambia stations ; but who had been bereaved of his 
devoted wife by death at St. Mary's, on the 13th of January. 

On the fifth of May, 1843, the Eev. M. Godman arrived at 
St. Mary's, accompanied by the Eev. G. Parsonson, who 
soon afterwards proceeded to his station at Macarthy's Island. 
Although freo L uently prostrated by fever, Mr. Godman was 
spared to labour with acceptance and efficiency for nearly three 
years, and from time to time reported the society and congrega- 
tion under his care to be in a prosperous state, and the school 
as doing well under the judicious management of Mr. Lynn, 
the trained European teacher. He considered the small chapel 
at Soldiers' Town, however, to be too near the Eathurst chapel 
to be of any very great advantage ; an opinion quite natural, 
considering their close proximity to each other. Early in the 
year 1846, the Mission at St. Mary's suffered a great less in 



222 PART I. — WESTERN AFRICA. 

the removal by death of Mr. Lynn, the excellent Teacher ; and 
towards the close of the same year. Mr. Godman was obliged 
to embark for England, in consequence of the sufferings of his 
beloved wife, which terminated in death, soon after they reached 
their native land. Mr. Parsonson, being now the only European 
Missionary left at the Gambia, came down to St. Mary's, to 
supply the more important station, till assistance should be sent 
from home. 

: next reinforcement consisted of the Rev. G. Meadows, and 
the Rev. K. Lean, who arrived at St. Mary's on the 3th of Decem- 
ber, 1847; and in a few months afterwards Air. Parson sou 
proceeded to England. Mrs. Parsonson having been obliged to 
leave the Gambia some time before, in consequence of illness. 

The respective stations on the Gambia appearing to require 
the oversight of a Missionary of some standing and experience 
in the work, the Committee now appointed the Eev. Henry 
Badger as General Superintendent of the District. Mr. Badger, 
with Mrs. Badger, arrived at St. Mary's, from Sierra Leone, 
where he had spent several years in the work, on st of 

February, 1849. Two of the Native Teachers having retired 
from the work, in consequence of some misunderstanding 
between them and one of the resident Missionaries, their 
places were supplied by Native Teachers from Sierra Leone; 
and for several years the work advanced in a pleasing manner 
under the united labours of Messrs Badger, Meadows, and 
Hirst, the last of whom was appointed to St. Mary's in IS 50. 
Among other evidences of prosperity, we find special mention 
made in the reports of the enlargement of the chapel at 
Bathurst, and the erection of a new gallery to aecc ~e the 

increasing number of school children who attended Divine 
service.* 

* Ih a letter addressed to the author, under date of St. Clary's. May 7th, 
1850, Mr. Badger says: "At St. Mary's the Lord is loing a great 
T7e hav 2 enlarged and improved the ?hapel :. .: nearly £500. Our 

chapel is now decidedly the best on the Western Coast of Africa, and it is 
filled on Sunday mornings. We seat two hundred and eighty children in 
one of the galleries. They are trained to sing by a yon 
pupil in Sierra Leone. Last Sunday morning they sang the ' - 
Chorus.'* by Handel, in four parrs. To my astonishment they have 1-: 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 223 

Mr. Badger, having lost his devoted wife at St. Mary's, 
returned to England towards the close of the year 1852; and 
Mr. Meadows, who had been on a visit to England, was 
appointed his successor, as General Superintendent, at the 
Conference of the following year. This zealous Missionary 
was soon afterwards joined by the Eev. John Bridgart, who 
was sent out to fill a vacancy. These brethren laboured for 
some time with considerable success, but at length their health 
gave way, under the influence of the trying climate; and Mr. 
Meadows was under the necessity of returning to England in 
the summer of 1856. The Eev. A. J. Gurney was now sent 
out to supply the vacancy at Bathurst, where he arrived in the 
month of November. In a few months afterwards, Mr. Bridgart 
was compelled by sickness to embark for Europe ; but, having 
recruited his health, he returned to the Gambia with Mrs. 
Bridgart in November, 1857. The Eev. E. Cooper had 
arrived at St. Mary's somewhat earlier in the same year, to 
supply the place of Mr. Gurney, who was removed to the 
Gold Coast District, to fill an important vacancy there. 

The necessities of the w T ork appearing to require such an 
arrangement, Mr. Bridgart was removed from the Gambia to 
Sierra Leone, as General Superintendent of that District, in 
December, 1858; and the Eev. J. H. Peat was sent out from 
England to supply the vacancy at St. Mary's. For several 
years in succession, the sickness and mortality among the 
Missionaries at the Gambia had been much less than formerly ; 
but in 1859 the Society was called to suffer a severe loss in 
the removal of Mr. Cooper, who died of fever, happy in God, 
at St. Mary's, on the 13th of August. In November, 1860, 
the Eev. E. Daw was sent out to the assistance of Mr. Peat, 
at St. Mary's, where he arrived in safety on the 8th of Decem- 
ber. From this period the two brethren just named prosecuted 
their beloved work with less interruption from sickness than 

this grand and overpowering piece of music in about a month. We are all 
hard at work, and God is working with us, which is best of all. The preaching 
and prayer-meetings are well attended; and many souls have recently been 
converted to God. Last year we added seventy-six to the number of our 
church members on this st?vtion." 



PJdM I.- — WESTERN JLFB1 

generally experienced by their predecessors ; and hope 
now entertained that the climate of "Western Africa is becoming 
less fatal to Europeans than formerly. In the month of Novem- 
ber, 1861, the Gambia stations were favoured with a visit from 
the Rev. W. West, when on his way tc Sierra Leone and Cape 
Coast ; he having been appoints :: the preceding Conference, 
the General Superintendent of all the three Districts, in con- 
sequence of the want of a sufficient number of experienced 
Missionaries to take the oversight of the work. Mr. Peat 
and Mr. Daw were both spared to return to England; and the 
next Miss:::; ited tolabc St. Mary's, was theKev. 

: A, Southerns. In 1864 he was relieved by the Rev, 
-: who, assisted by Mr, ?Iero, the Minister, 

continues to occupy the station. 

The last Junta received fi : 3amb£a represent the St. 
Man's Mission as being in a prosperous state. After supplying 
the vacancies occasioned by deaths and removals, there were eight 

united in church fellow- 
ship, seven A j four scholars in the Mission 

schools, and two thousi hundred worshippers, 

assembling together, from Sabbath to Sabbath, in fee chapels and 
four other preaching places. And the Missionaries were antici- 
pating still better days. 

But howevei grateful we may feel for past success, and how- 
evei hopeful for the future, we must remember the work is not 
yet finished. It has only been just commenced. In our joy- 
ful contemplation of the rays of light which have begun to- 
shine upon this land of heathen darkness, let us not forget the 
mighty mass of ignorance and superstition in ^hich the con- 
tinent of Africa, as a whole, is still involve:: We rejoice to 
know that, in addition to what has been effected by other 
Christian instrumentalities, :'_-: "":"::: MissicuF.ry ?:::e:y 
numbers 9,579 bersj : : : r scholars in the Mission 

schools, and '2 '." ] hearers of the Gospel, on the respective 
stations in Western Africa; but let us not hide from ourselves 
the appalling fact that there are still hundreds of thousands, yea, 
millions, of the people, "still sitting in darkness and in the 
shad: Mohammedans or Pagans, these 



CHAP. X. — MISCELLANEOUS INCIDENTS. 225 

deluded sable sons and daughters of Ham are literally without 
God and without hope in the world. They never heard the 
name of Jesus. They never knew the Christian Sabbath. 
They never heard the voice of a Christian teacher. They never 
saw that Book which alone reveals the mercy of God to man. 
And yet these degraded Africans are possessed of precious, 
never-dying souls. They must be for ever happy with God in 
heaven, or for ever miserable in hell, where peace and hope can 
never come. For them the Saviour died upon the cross. They 
are, moreover, our brethren and sisters, bone of our bone, flesh 
of our flesh. We have all been created by the same Almighty 
power, preserved by the same goodness, and redeemed by the 
same precious blood. Let no one say with wicked Cain, "Am 
I my brother's keeper ? " Let us rather acknowledge the 
authority of Him who said to His disciples, and who says to 
us, " Go ye into all the world, and preach the Gospel to every 
creature." O that I could convey to the reader a measure of 
that feeling by which my own mind has often been influenced, 
when standing in the interior of Africa, a lonely Missionary, 
surrounded by a dense population, deeply involved in moral 
degradation and woe, no adequate provision being made for 
their evangelization ! 

In concluding the first part of these humble memorials of 
heathen darkness, Gospel triumphs, and Christian labours, as 
well as of the joys and sorrows of missionary life, I would respect- 
fully, but earnestly, plead with the reader for his sympathy, his 
prayers^ and his efforts, on behalf of the long oppressed and 
neglected Negro race. "Pity poor Africa." Bemember that 
in this land of darkness, superstition, and war, and slavery, 
and human sacrifices still prevail to a fearful extent. O come 
forward " to the help of the Lord, to the help of the Lord against 
the mighty !" I ask for your sympathy and for your prayers on 
behalf, also, of those dear men of God who have left their native 
country, and gone forth as Christian Missionaries to this land 
of sickness and death. Many have fallen a sacrifice to the 
climate at an early period of their career, and have found a 
grave in African soil ; but never did one give expression to feel- 
ings of regret that he had embarked in the blessed work. And 



226 PAET I. — WESTERN AFRICA* 

how soon have the ranks been filled up ! The true missionary 
spirit still animates the hearts of our rising: -Ministry. Western 
Africa will never lack an adequate supply of European Mission- 
aries to co-operate with the Native Teachers in carrying on the 
work of God. And if men are found willing to go forth to 
such a country, with their lives in their hands, literally leaving 
all for the sake of Christ and His Gospel, is it too much to ask 
of those who remain at home, surrounded with all the comforts 
of civilized life, to follow the [Missionaries with their prayers, 
and to support them in the work in which they are engaged, as 
the Lord has prospered them ? 

It is freely admitted that in the prosecution of Missions like 
those to which the attention of the reader is now invited, many 
difficulties have to be encountered ; but the more numerous 
the difficulties, the greater is the need of united prayer and 
effort, that they may all be overcome in the strength of the 
Lord. In the opinion of some, the pestilential climate of 
Western Africa may appear an insurmountable barrier to ulti- 
mate success. But why should this be a stumbling-block in 
our way, so long as the great Head of the Church continues to 
raise up, call, qualify, and incline the hearts of apostolic men 
to consecrate themselves to this hazardous department of Chris- 
tian labour. The fact that so many have fallen in this holy 
enterprise should be an incentive to greater zeal and diligence 
in the prosecution of the work. As Abraham by faith took 
possession of the land of Canaan, when he buried his dead 
within the boundaries of the promised inheritance, so should we, 
as professing Christians, look upon Western Africa as ours, 
because of the number of zealous Missionaries and their devoted 
wives who have been buried in that country, after nobly 
endeavouring to reclaim it for Christ their Saviour. The 
Christian church should be animated by the spirit of that 
devoted Missionary who, before he himself fell a sacrifice to the 
climate, expressed a wish for no other motto for his tomb-stone 
than the touching words : " Though a thousand tall, let 
:s~ot Africa be given up." Let the same spirit of self- 
sacrificing zeal animate the Christian church, and (: Ethiopia 
will soon stretch out her hands unto God." 



PART II. 

THE WEST INDIES. 



CHAPTER I. 

DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 

Situation — Discovery — Aborigines — General Features — Soil — Scenery — 
Moral Condition — Jamaica — Antigua — Barbuda — Dominica — Mont- 
serrat — Nevis— St. Kitt's— Anguilla — St, Bart's— St. Eustatius — St, 
Martin's — Saba — The Virgin Islands — Danish. Islands — The Bahamas 
— Hayti — Honduras — Spanish Islands — French Islands — St. Lucia. 

The second Mission of the writer was to the West Indies, — 
a pare of the. world that will ever be regarded with feelings of 
peculiar interest by the Christian philanthropist ; and of which 
a few notices may be given, preparatory to a more particular 
account of the colonies where he was appointed to labour ; and 
of the plans adopted to promote the spiritual welfare of the 
sable sons of Ham, in these the lands of their exile. 

The West India Islands are situated in that part of the 
Atlantic Ocean which forms itself into a deep and extensive 
bay, between the vast continents of North and South America. 
They were discovered, at different times, by the enterprising 
Columbus, towards the close of the fifteenth century ; and were 
found to be inhabited by savage tribes of natives, whom 
the Spaniards called "Indians" or " Caribs ; " evidently of 
different races or descent. These unfortunate Aborigines were 

Q 2 



228 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

too independent, or too indolent, to submit to the slavery which 
their cruel conquerors would have imposed upon them. They 
were, moreover, unfitted by nature, and their previous habits 
of life, to endure that severe toil and drudgery to which they 
were required to submit. By degrees, they were almost entirely 
extirpated ; rapidly passing away under the cruel treatment of 
their oppressors. Their places were soon supplied by Negro 
slaves, who had been torn from their native homes in Africa, 
and doomed to a life of perpetual toil and bondage, as already 
stated in the former part of this work. 

By the fortunes of war and other changes, the islands form- 
ng the Archipelago of the West have fallen into the hands of 
various European powers. At the present time, the English 
colonies are, — Jamaica, Antigua, Dominica, Montserrat, Nevis, 
St. Christopher's, Barbuda, Anguilla, St. Lucia, the Virgin 
Islands, the Bahamas, Honduras, Demerara, Barbadoes, St. 
Vincent's, Grenada, Tobago, and Trinidad. The French islands 
are, — Martinique, Guadaloupe, Marie Galante, and St. Martin'^ 
in part. The Spanish colonies are, — Cuba and Porto Rico. 
The Dutch have, — St. Eustatius, Saba, and St. Martin's in 
part. There are belonging to the Danes, — St. Thomas, St. 
John's, and St. Croix. And the Swedes claim St. Bartholomew's ; 
while Hayti has become a republic of free blacks, who cast off 
the Spanish yoke in 1801. 

These islands and continental settlements, which usually pass 
under the general name of the West Indies, possess several 
features in common wdth each other, whilst, at the same time, 
each place has a history of its own, and something peculiar to 
itself. We shall now proceed to give a few particulars of 
information concerning them, so far as our limited space will 
permit. 

Situated as they are chiefly within the tropics, all the West 
India islands possess a climate at all times free from severe 
cold, frost and snow being entirely unknown ; but the heat is 
sometimes intense. This, however, is frequently moderated by 
a refreshing sea-breeze ; which, in most of the islands, blows at 
certain periods, with great regularity. Those localities which 
are low and swampy are necessarily unhealthy as in all other 



CHAP. I. — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 229 

tropical countries ; as the rapid process of evaporation generates 
the marsh miasma, which is a fruitful source of fever. But in 
regions more dry and elevated, although the heat may be great? 
the climate is far from unfriendly to general health. It must be 
admitted, however, that a lengthened residence, without a change, 
usually proves debilitating to the European constitution. 

The seasons, although net so distinctly marked as in Western 
Africa, are divided into dry and rainy, rather than into summer 
and winter ; and the agricultural operations of the planters 
are arranged accordingly, the rains being favourable for the 
cultivation of the ground, and the dry weather for the gathering 
in of the crops. With a little variation as to different localities, 
the former generally continues from September to March, and 
the latter from April to August. To these must be added the 
" hurricane season," which embraces the months of August 
and September, when a large portion of the West Indies is 
liable to violent tempests, which sometimes prove very destruc- 
tive to life and property. 

The soil varies much in its character in different places, but 
it is generally fertile, and yields a good return, when properly 
cultivated. The principal articles of produce are sugar, cotton, 
arrow-root, ginger, pepper, and other spices ; whilst almost all 
the islands produce fruit of various kinds, and vegetables in 
great abundance. 

The scenery is everywhere interesting, and frequently splendid 
beyond description. A well-arranged and highly-cultivated 
estate, with its numerous Xegro cottages and provision grounds, 
is a pleasing object to look upon ; especially when ornamented 
with the majestic palmetto, cocoa-nut, and other tropical trees, 
with the curling waves of the bright blue sea on the one hand, 
and the uplands, in the wildness of nature, on the other. The 
mountains are frequently clothed to their very summits with 
the richest vegetation ; whilst the foliage of the trees which 
cover the hills and valleys not yet brought under cultivation, 
assumes every variety of tint which can possibly be imagined, 
according to the varying seasons of the year in which they are 
seen, and is remarkably refreshing for the eye to rest upon. 

But whilst we regard with feelings of pleasure the lovely 



230 PART II. — THE WEST I>~D1E5. 

aspects of external nature, which, are found in the West Indies 
generally, we must not forget that there is another phase of 
the subject which is calculated to give pain and sorrow to every 
sensitive mind. I mean the moral condition of the inhabitants, 
and the lamentable spiritual destitution which everywhere pre- 
vailed, previous to the arrival of the Missionaries. Xot only 
the poor enslaved Negroes, but all classes of the community, 
from the highest to the lowest; were deeply depraved, and 
notoriously immoral ; and scenes of misery and degradation 
were the result, which cannot fail to attract our notice, — as well 
as the means employed to effect a remedy, — whilst the colonies 
pass under review, which have been the principal scenes of 
evangelical effort. 

Jamaica is the largest and most important c ritish 

West India colonies ; and, as such, it demands our first notice. 
The island is of an irregular oval form, and is said to be 170 
miles long and 70 broad, the centre being situated in latitude 
IS 1:2' north and longitude 7T 3 45' west. The general aspect 
of the country is rugged and mountainous ; but it abounds with 
fertile valleys, and almost every part is covered with perpetual 
verdure. It is, moreover, watered with numerous streams, 
which flow in various directions : which circumstance seems to 
justify the name given to it by the aborigines, which signifies, 
in their language, the " Land of Springs/'* 

The island of Jamaica was discovered by Columbus, in the 
course of his third voyage from Spain, on the 3rd of May, 
1494 ; but no settlement was made upon it at that time; the 
Spaniards leaving the country after a stay of ten days, being 
disappointed at finding no gold. It was only during his fourth 
and last voyage, that Columbus and his party formed a perma- 
nent establishment in this island. Being overtaken by a violent 
storm, they were driven towards these shores, and, with great 
difficulty, effected a landing at a small cove on the north side of 
the island, on the 24th oi June, 15 03. Having thus escaped 
from shipwreck, after the loss of four vessels belonging to the 
squadron, the adventurers were delighted to find the natives 
disposed to be kind and hospitable. These simple children of the 
forest exerted themselves to the utmost to supply the pale-faced 



CHAP. I. — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 231 

strangers with food, and every necessary comfort ; but they 
were repaid by the basest ingratitude, oppression, and. wrong. 
The island remained, in the possession of Spain for a hundred 
and fifty-six years ; during which period scenes of horror, cruelty, 
and bloodshed occurred which find no parallel in the pages of 
history, unless it be in the records of the enormities which were 
perpetrated by these same heartless Spaniards in St. Domingo 
and other places which they had conquered. Speaking of these 
early colonists, Abbe Eaynal says : " These barbarous wretches 
never sheathed their swords while there was one native left to 
preserve the memory of a numerous, good-natured, plain, and 
hospitable people." Thus perished the entire native population 
of Jamaica, in the short space of fifty years, although their 
number was estimated at eighty thousand ; and their places 
were henceforth supplied by Negro slaves from the coast of 
Africa, 

In the year 1655, the English, under Penn and Yenables, 
having failed in their attempt to take St. Domingo, made an 
attack on Jamaica. They landed at Passage Port, in Port 
Eoyal harbour ; and, the Spaniards flying before them in every 
direction, they made an easy conquest of the island. Since that 
period it has continued an appendage to the British crown, 
every attempt to take it having been successfully resisted. All 
who have written upon the subject are unanimous in their testi- 
mony as to the fearfully demoralized state of the inhabitants of 
Jamaica at an early period of its history. And, according to 
the general rule, that " sin brings sorrow," this colony has had 
many and severe trials to pass through at different periods of 
its history. In 1692, the town of Port Eoyal was swallowed 
up by an earthquake, when three thousand of the inhabitants 
were hurried out of time into eternity.* About four years 

* On the occasion of the earthquake which destroyed Port Royal, a very 
remarkable interposition of Divine Providence occurred on behalf of a good 
man, who, like Lot of old, was saved from the general destruction ; the 
particulars of which are recorded on a marble monument, erected to his 
memory, as follows : — " Here lies the body of Lewis Galdy, Esq., who 
departed this life at Port Royal, December the 22nd, 1736, aged eighty- 
years. He was born at Montpellier, in Prance ; but left that country for 
his religion, and came to settle in this island, where he was swallowed up in 



232 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

afterwards, when Port Eoyal had been rebuilt, it was almost 
entirely destroyed by fire ; as wag also the town of Montego 
Bay at a subsequent period. Then came a fatal epidemie, which 
swept away a large number of the inhabitants ; and this visita- 
tion was followed by a succession of hurricanes, which involved 
a fearful sacrifice of life and property. 

Eut the greatest evils which have afflicted Jamaica, in 
common with the other West India Islands, are those connected 
with slavery. The language of Montgomery Martin on this 
subject is strong, but nevertheless true. " Slavery," says he, 
"both Indian and Negro, that blighting upas, has been the 
curse of the West Indies ; it has accompanied the white 
colonist, whether Spaniard, French, or Briton, in his progress,, 
tainting, like a plague, every incipient association, and blasting 
the efforts of man, however originally well disposed, by its 
demon-like influence over the natural virtues with which his 
Creator had endowed him, leaving all cold, and dark, and deso- 
late within." To this startling testimony of the celebrated 
colonial historian, as to the demoralizing influence of slavery on 
all concerned in the abominable system, we need only here add 
that about thirty insurrections of the slave population occurred 
in Jamaica, after it became a British colony, before the evil was 
entirely done away. One of these outbreaks involved the 
lives of seven hundred slaves, and an expenditure of £161,596, 
independently of the value of the property destroyed, which 
was estimated at £1,154,583.* 

the great earthquake in the year 1692 ; and, by the proridence of God, was, 
by another shock, thrown into the sea, and miraculously saved by swimming, 
until a boat took him up. He lived many years afterwards in great reputa- 
tion, beloved by all who knew him, and was much lamented at his death." 

* In the month of October, 1865, several years after the advent of free- 
dom, another insurrection occurred at Morant Bay, on the eastern side of 
Jamaica, attended by the most appalling circumstances. When the intelli- 
gence of this deplorable event reached England, one or two of the leading 
journals, well known for their antipathy to the black man, jumped to the 
most rash and hasty conclusions condemnatory of emancipation, and of the 
whole Negro race. But when more ample information was received as to 
the history, character, and causes of the outbreak, it plainly appeared that 
from misgovernment, party legislation, and other abuses, traceable, not to 
emancipation, but to the spirit of slavery which still lingers in many 



CHAP. I. — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 233 

The island of Jamaica is divided into three counties, — 
Middlesex, Surrey, and Cornwall ; and these are again divided 
into parishes. A church was built in almost every parish at an 
early period ; but we are informed, on good authority, that when 
there was a Priest for each parish, which was not always the 
case, the church was seldom opened, except on occasions of 
marriages or funerals. Sunday was the day devoted to the 
public market and parties of pleasure, the Clergymen themselves 
being, in many instances, notoriously immoral. It is doubted 
whether, previous to 1789, the Sabbath ever dawned on Jamaica 
which witnessed five hundred persons assembled in all the places 
of worship put together, out of a population of nearly four 
hundred thousand. The idea of attempting to impart religious 
instruction to the slaves scarcely seems to have entered into the 
mind of any one. 

Such was the state of society when the pious and devoted Dr. 
Coke landed in Jamaica, on the 19th of January, 1789, having 
previously succeeded in establishing Missions in several of the 
smaller islands in the West Indies. He remained but a short 
period on this occasion ; but during his stay he preached four 
times in Kingston, to attentive congregations, though not with- 

quarters, and from the consequent sufferings of the people from the extreme 
poverty, destitution, and oppression to which they were exposed, a spirit of 
dissatisfaction had for a long time existed. It appeared further that the 
Zsegroes who engaged in this revolt, and were guilty of such atrocities, were 
comparatively few in number, the mass of the people refusing to join them ; 
and that the insurgents were first fired upon by the parties assembled in the 
Court-house before they commenced their murderous work. "Whilst all 
Christian people must condemn, in the most unqualified manner, the pro- 
ceedings of the insurgents at Morant Bay, much sympathy will be felt for 
the innocent, who are made so largely to suffer with the guilty ; and the 
British press has, to its honour, with but few exceptions, pronounced the 
severest censure on the proceedings of the parties who took the field pro- 
fessedly to quell the insurrection, but who, although they met with no armed 
opposition, seized upon and put to death about two thousand black and 
coloured persons with the most wanton cruelty, in some instances without 
even the form of a drum-head court-martial; among whom was Mr. G. Y\ . 
Gordon, a respectable gentleman of colour, and a member of the House of 
Assembly, who was dragged from Kingston to Morant Bay, that he might 
be huns; amid the ruins of the Court-house ! 



234 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

out opposition and disturbance at one or two of the services. 
The impression made upon the Doctor's mind by his first visit 
appears to have been favourable ; for immediately on his return 
to England he sent out the Rev. William Hammett, as the first 
Missionary to Jamaica, who arrived on the island in the month 
of August. This zealous servant of Christ was successful in 
Iris first efforts to evangelize the people ; and the congregations 
were so large that he was encouraged to purchase an old 
building, and fit it up as a place of worship. In the beginning- 
of 1791, the Rev. Mr. Brazier arrived, to assist Mr. Hammett; 
and in a few days afterwards Dr. Coke paid a second visit, 
bringing along with him the Rev. Mr. Werril], another Missionary. 
After remaining a few days at Montego Bay, where they landed, 
and where the Doctor preached several times, they proceeded to 
Kingston, a distance of about one hundred and twenty miles. 
This journey was performed on horseback, and the Missionaries 
had thus a favourable opportunity of seeing the interior of the 
island, with wdiich they appear to have been much delighted. 
After Dr. Coke had remained a short time in the colony, preach- 
ing in various places, he embarked for America, taking Mr. 
Hammett with him, to recruit his impaired health in a colder 
climate. In the month of August, Mr. Brazier followed them, 
having also suffered from the excessive heat. On the 15th of 
November, Mr. Werrill died, happy in God, the first of a long- 
list of faithful Missionaries who have fallen a sacrifice to the 
climate of Jamaica ; and thus the Society which had been 
collected was left without a Pastor. 

In the month of May, 1792, the hearts of the people were 
gladdened by the arrival of the Rev. William Fish ; whose 
zealous labours were successful in re-organizing the Mission. 
About nine months afterwards, Dr. Coke paid his third and 
last visit to Jamaica ; and after spending there a few days, during 
which he was " in labours more abundant, 55 preaching, travel- 
ling, and endeavouring to strengthen the hands of the Mission- 
ary, he embarked for England, and Mr. Fish was left to pursue 
his useful labours alone. In after years, the Jamaica Mission 
was strengthened by the arrival of the Rev. Messrs. Alexander, 
Campbell, "Fowler, Bradnack, Wiggans, Johnston, Shipman, and 



CKAP. I. — DESCRIPTION OP THE ISLANDS. 235 

a host of other "brave and zealous Ministers of Christ, who suc- 
cessively laboured and suffered in this interesting island, but 
into the history of whose labours the limits of this brief sketck 
forbid us to enter. Suffice it to say that 3 amid opposition and 
persecution such as has seldom been witnessed in modern times, 
they nobly persevered. For several years in succession, some 
of the chapels were closed by persecuting enactments, called 
" laws ; " others were completely demolished by ruthless mobs, 
whilst the inoffensive Missionaries were imprisoned or insulted 
in a manner too shocking to relate. Still they pressed onwards ; 
and their faithful labours were crowned with abundant sue 
The good work spread from Kingston to Port Royal, Mod 
Bay, Spanish Town. Morant Bay, Grateful Hill, Stony Hill, 
Falmouth, St. Ann's Bay. and far away into the interior dis- 
tricts. In most of the towns and rural hamlets, substantial 
chapels have been erected, which are crowded with attei 
hearers of the word of God ; and a change has passed over the 
face 01 society which is pleasing to contemplate. Notwith- 
standing the various trials and adverse circumstances with which 
Jamaica has had to contend, in common with several other West 
India colonies, it is a delightful fact that there are now, in con- 
nexion with the Wesleyan Missionary Society in the island, 

ty-two chapels, twenty-five oilier preaching-places, and 

\ty-two Missionaries. Upwards of sixteen thousand converts 
are united in church fellowship, and five thousand childrentare 

ling the Mission schools ; whilst thirty-eight thousand of the 
inhabitants are reported as members of the respective congrega- 
tions. 

Antigua now claims our attention; not that it ranks next 
to Jamaica in size and importance as a British colony, but 
because it was honoured to be the first Wesleyan Mission sta- 
tion in the West Indies. This island was discovered by 

- ab us in the course of his second voyage, and received its 
present name in honour of St. Mary of Antigua, to whom a 
church in Seville was dedicated. It is situated in latitude 17° 
6' north, and longitude 61° 50' west, twenty-five miles north- 
east from Montserrat, and forty miles north of Ghiadaloupe, and 
is said to be fifty miles in circumference ; with a population of 



236 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

thirty-eight thousand. For many years after its first discovery, 
Antigua seems to have been neglected by the Spaniards, in 
consequence of its being entirely destitute of springs and rivers. 
The land being generally low, it cannot boast of scenery equal 
to that of some of the other islands. It was not till the year 
1629, that a regular settlement was formed, by a small number 
of French planters, from St. Christopher's. On their arrival, 
they found the island totally destitute of inhabitants ; the 
native Caribs having deserted it from the scarcity of water. 
This serious disadvantage caused the French also to abandon 
the place soon afterwards ; but, in 1632, it was taken possession 
of by a party of Englishmen, who collected the rain-water in 
tanks, and, to a considerable extent, overcame the difficulties 
with which they had at first to contend. In the wars of 1665, 
the colony fell into the hands of the French, but was restored 
again to the English in 1668 ; since which time it has continued 
to be an appendage to the British crown. 

Although the scarcity of water in Antigua has to a consider- 
able extent been overcome by artificial means, the island is still 
subject, at times, to long continued droughts ; a circumstance 
which has occasionally retarded its agricultural and commercial 
prosperity. The climate is said to be tolerably healthy, how- 
ever, and it is possessed of excellent harbours. The principal 
article of culture was originally cotton ; but, for many years 
past, this has given place to sugar, the general staple of the 
British West Indies. Provisions, and fruit of various kinds, 
are raised in abundance ; and, on the whole, this is a desirable 
place of residence for the tropics. The city of St. John's is the 
capital of the colony, and the place of residence for the Governor 
General of all the leeward islands. The towns of Parham, 
Willoughby Bay, English Harbour, and Falmouth, are of secon- 
dary importance, and some of them the mere remains of what 
they once were. 

Antigua has always had the reputation of being in advance 
of the other West Indian colonies, in civilization, enlighten- 
ment, and humanity. At an early period, the local Legislature 
enacted a law for the trial of criminals by a jury of slaves, as 
well as free men ; and when the great emancipation came, this 



CHAP. I. DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 237 

island nobly dispensed with the apprenticeship, and freed the 
slaves at once. 

The Moravians had laboured successfully for some time in 
Antigua, when the Wesleyan Methodists were called by a 
remarkable providence to take their share of the important 
work of evangelizing the poor Negroes. As early as 1760, the 
Speaker of the House of Assembly, the Hon. Nathaniel Gilbert, 
began to hold jneetings for the religious instruction of the 
slaves on his own and neighbouring estates ; having himself 
been brought to a knowledge of the truth, under the preaching 
of the Eev. John Wesley, during a visit which he paid to 
England some time before. Considerable progress had been 
made in this good work by Mr. Gilbert, aided by his pious 
partner and a like-minded brother, when, about eighteen years 
afterwards, Mr. John Baxter, a zealous Local Preacher, arrived 
from England, on the 2nd of April, 177$, to pursue his occupa- 
tion as shipwright, in His Majesty's dock-yard at English Har- 
bour. This excellent man immediately united with the Gilberts 
in spreading abroad the knowledge of a Saviour's love among 
the poor Negroes ; travelling to distant plantations to instruct 
the people after the labours of the day were over, and address- 
ing large assemblies on the Sabbath day. The result was a 
glorious ingathering of precious souls to the fold of Christ. As 
the work extended, application was made to Mr. "Wesley to 
send out a regular Missionary ; but the claims of other parts of 
the wide field caused a long delay. At length, however, the 
necessity was met, in a manner which no one had anticipated. 

In the year 17 S 6, Dr. Coke and three Missionaries, Messrs. 
Hammett, Warrener, and Clarke, left England for Nova Scotia ; 
but from stress of weather were driven to Antigua. They 
landed at St. John's on Christmas Day ; and whilst walking up 
the street, they met Mr. Baxter, going to preach to a large con- 
gregation. The venerable Doctor took the pulpit, and his 
pious heart was stirred within him whilst looking upon and 
addressing one thousand listening Negroes, as he now saw 
more clearly than ever the hand of God, in the mysterious 
manner in which he had been brought to their shores. Yield- 
ing to this remarkable providence, Dr. Coke left Mr, Warrener 



238 PAUT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

to assist Mr. Eaxter in Antigua, and started off with the other 
Missionaries to seek to evangelize the neighbouring lands. 
Other zealous labourers followed in succession ; and such was 
the rapid progress of the work, that when Dr. Coke called at 
the island two years afterwards, he was delighted with the 
prosperous state of the Mission. Still more blessed results 
were realized afterwards ; and we have now, in connexion with 
the Wesleyan Mission in Antigua, ten chap els, four Missionaries, 
7i early two thousand church members, and one thousand children 
in the Mission schools ; whilst upwards of five thousand persons 
attend the public services* 

Baubuda is a small English island, situated about thirty-five 
miles to the north of Antigua, with a population of about two 
thousand. The land is generally flat, and the soil is better 
adapted for grazing than for cultivation. The chief trade of the 
colonists consists of cattle, pigs, poultry, horses, and mules, 
which are raised in the country, and shipped for sale in the 
neighbouring islands. 

The inhabitants of Barbuda are largely indebted to the 
Wesleyan Mission on the neighbouring island for the religious 
knowledge and privileges which they possess, although the 
settlement has only been occasionally visited by the Mission- 
aries from Antigua; the sparseness of the population, and 
other difficulties, having hitherto prevented the establishment 
of a separate station ; a measure which has been rendered less 
necessary by the appointment of a Minister of another denomi- 
nation to reside there of late years. In 1813, the Eev. S. P. 
Wool ley preached frequently to the people, baptized ninety-three 
children and thirty-four adults in one day, and renewed the 
quarterly tickets of fifty- six church members. 

* In the year 1826, the Antigua Mission suffered a severe loss, by the 
wreck of the "Maria" mail-boat; on which occasion five Missionaries, 
two wives, and four children, with two servants, met with a watery 
grave. The sufferers were Mr. and Mrs. White, with their three children ; 
Mr. and Mrs. Truscott, and one child ; Mr. Jones, Mr. Hillier, and Mr. 
Oke, all of the Antigua station; which was, by this mysterious Providence, 
left without a Missionary. Of the whole Mission party, the only survivor 
was Mrs. Jones ; who afterwards wrote, for publication, a most affecting 
narrative of the sad disaster. 



CHAP. I. — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 239 

Dominica was the first land discovered by Columbus on his 
second voyage to the New World ; and, having been descried 
on Sunday, the 3rd of November, 1493, it was called Dominica, 
which is in Latin equivalent to our English iC Lord's day. 35 It is 
about twenty-nine miles in length, and sixteen in breadth, and 
is situated nearly midway between Guadaloupe and Martinique, 
in latitude 15° 3:2' north, and longitude 61° 23' west, with a 
population of about twenty-two thousand. The general aspect 
of this island is mountainous and rugged, the interior being 
covered with forests of excellent timber ; but it possesses many 
fertile valleys, and is watered by upwards of thirty rivers, which 
How in various directions. In former years coffee and cotton, 
for which the soil is said to be well adapted, were cultivated to 
a considerable extent ; but at present sugar is the staple com- 
modity for exportation, abundance of vegetables and fruits being 
grown for home consumption. 

When first settled by the Trench about the beginning of the 
seventeenth century, Dominica was inhabited by a race of Caribs 
similar to those which were found on the neighbouring islands ; 
but they were soon made to give place to the more hardy Negro. 
In 1759 the island fell by conquest under the dominion of Great 
Britain. In 1773 it was retaken by the French ; but it was 
restored to the English in 1783, since which period it has 
remained a British possession, though still possessing much of 
the French element in the composition of its population. 

On the evening of Friday, the fifth of January, 17 87, Dr. 
Coke, with Messrs. Baxter, Hammett, and Clarke, arrived at 
Dominica ; where they were kindly received and entertained by a 
Mr. Burn, to whom they were introduced. The way not appearing 
open, as yet, for the commencement of a Mission, they only 
remained two or three days ; and, after the Doctor had preached 
at the house of Mrs. Webley, a lady of colour, and conversed 
with a few Negroes and two pious soldiers in the garrison, the 
missionary party proceeded in their schooner to St. Vincent's. 
Nearly two years afterwards, on the 19th of December, 1788, 
Dr. Coke paid a second visit to this island, accompanied by 
Messrs. Baxter and M'Cornock, the latter of whom was left at 
•Roseau, the capital 3 to commence a Mission, the arrangement 



240 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

having been sanctioned by his Excellency the Governor. Mr. 
M c Cornock had only laboured for a few months with a pleasing 
measure of success, when he was called away by death, being 
the first Wesley an Missionary who fell in the West Indies ; and 
the infant church was left destitute of a Pastor for several years. 
On the 3rd of January, 1793, Dr. Coke called once more at 
Dominica ; and, being much affected with the destitute con- 
dition of the people, in the course of the following year he sent 
Mr. Cook to collect the scattered flock, and recommence the 
Mission. Mr. Cook was succeeded by Messrs. Dumbleton, 
Taylor, Bocock, Shipley, and others ; several of whom fell a 
sacrifice to the climate, which is generally admitted to be one 
of the most unhealthy in the West Indies, especially on the 
leeward coast. But, notwithstanding every difficulty, the good 
work has prospered from year to year ; and the Mission now 
numbers six chapels, three other preaching -places, six hundred 
and tioenty-six church members, five hundred and ten scholars in 
the Mission schools, and fifteen hundred persons in attendance at 
the respective places of worship. 

Montsekrat is the next island which passes under review. 
It is situated in latitude 16° 47* north, and longitude 62° 13' 
west, about twenty-two miles south-west of Antigua, and the 
same distance north-west of Guadaloupe, and south-east of 
Nevis. It is only twelve miles long and seven broad, and is 
said to have received its present name from its rugged and 
mountainous aspect. It was first settled by Sir Thomas Warner 
and his party under the protection of the British Government 
in 1632. About 1664 it was taken by the French; but it was 
restored to the English at the peace of Breda, and has continued 
ever since under our flag. Montserrat is called by Montgomery 
Martin" a romantic little isle," and it can certainly boast of 
splendid scenery. Coleridge expresses himself as delighted 
with his ride from Plymouth, the capital, to the Souffriere, as 
some of the views reminded him of his native Westmoreland lake 
district. The staple article of produce is sugar ; but of late 
years a considerable trade has been carried on by the exporta- 
tion of firewood, chiefly to Barbadoes. The population was 
once estimated at fifteen thousand, but it has dwindled down to 



CHAP. I. — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 241 

little more than half that number, chiefly by emigration to 
Trinidad and other more prosperous islands, where a better 
prospect of success presented itself to the inhabitants. 

The early settlers in Montserrat were chiefly Irish, and of the 
Eoman Catholic Church ; and some of their descendants have 
still an establishment in the island. In consequence of the 
spirit of persecution which prevailed, Dr. Coke was unable to 
commence a Mission here when he visited the neighbouring 
colonies; but he makes mention in his Journal, in 1793, of a 
small Class of twelve persons who were met regularly once a 
week by a pious coloured person. In 180S Mr. Hodgson 
visited Montserrat on his way to Tortola, and communicated 
the result of his observations to Dr. Coke ; but it was not till 
the year 1820 that a Mission was regularly organized in this 
island. The first Missionary was Mr. Maddocks, who was 
called away by death in the midst of his useful labours a few 
months after his arrival. He was succeeded by Mr. Janion, 
who completed and opened a new chapel commenced by his 
lamented predecessor, and the good work continued to prosper. 
These pioneers were followed in after years by a noble race of 
faithful Missionaries in succession ; and the fruit of their labours 
continue to this day, although many changes have taken place. 
We now number in this little island four chapels, one Missionary, 
three hundred and seventy-one members, three hundred and 
thirty-four scholars, and nine hundred attendants on public 
worship. 

Nevis is another beautiful little island, which appears on the 
approach of the voyager like a conical mountain rising out of 
the sea. It is only eight miles long and five broad ; but being- 
well watered and fertile, it was formerly very productive in 
sugar, ginger, and the usual fruits and provisions of the tropics. 
It could once boast of a population of thirty thousand ; but, by 
reverse of circumstances, emigration, and the desolating effects 
of cholera in 1853, it has been reduced to less than one third 
that number. Xevis is separated from St. Kitt's at its south- 
eastern end by a narrow channel three miles broad, in latitude 
17° ir north, and longitude 63° 3' west. It was originally 
settled by a party of Englishmen under Sir Thomas Warner. 



242 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

Dr. Coke paid his first visit to this lovely isle on the 19th of 
January, 1787 ; and in the following year the work of the 

Mission was regularly organized by Mr. Hammett, who came 
over from St. Kitt's to preach to the Negroes at the invitation 
of Mr. Brazier. This gentleman, together with the Messrs. 
Xesbitt, supported the cause most nobly ; and, from the begin- 
ning, the work was favoured with marked prosperity. At an 
early period we find the names of Messrs. Kingston, Brownell, 
Taylor, Turner, Isham, Woolley, Morgan, Hurst. Mortier, and 
other worthies connected with this station ; and we now number 
three chapels, two Missionaries, fourteen hundred church members^ 
eleven hundred and swty -seven scholars, and. five thousand, attend- 
ants on public worship. 

St. Kitt's (or St. Christopher's) was discovered by Columbus 
in 1493, and was honoured with his own Christian name. I: 
was called by its original possessors Liamuiga, or the M Fertile 
Island ;" and it is not unworthy of the name, as it continues to 
produce large crops of sugar, when other islands are compara- 
tively worn out. St. Kitt's is situated in latitude 17° IS' north, 
and longitude 62° 40' west, and is only eight miles distant from 
St. Eustatius on the one hand, and three from Nevis on the 
other. The island is of a peculiar shape, somewhat resembling 
Italy, having the form of an outstretched leg. In its natural 
features it is equally remarkable for rugged boldness and soft 
beauty ; a chain of hills running from north to south, and rising, 
at Mount Misery, to an elevation of three thousand seven hun- 
dred feet above the level of the sea ; whilst the lower slopes, 
down to the water edge, are highly cultivated. The population 
may be estimated at twenty-three thousand. In 1623 Sir 
Thomas Warner settled on the island with his son and fourteen 
others from London. They found three Frenchmen living in 
peace with the natives. Being favourably impressed with the 
place, Warner went to England for recruits, and, on his return 
in 1625, he found in the harbour M. DTnambur, who had just 
arrived from Trance with a party of settlers. The English and 
the French agreed to divide the island between them ; on seeing 
which, the Caribs took alarm, and made war upon the European 
invaders; but they were defeated with a loss of two thousand 



CHAP. I. — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 243 

in killed and wounded, whilst one hundred of the pale-faced 
strangers fell by the poisoned arrows of the natives. In after 
years jealousies, bickerings, and strife occurred between the French 
and English, till 1702, when the island was captured by the 
British ; and, it being confirmed to us by the Treaty of Utrecht in 
1713, most of the French left for St. Domingo, and the English 
remained in peaceable possession. 

On Thursday, the 18th of January, 1787, Dr. Coke, with. 
Messrs. Baxter, Hammett, and Clarke, whilst on their interesting 
tour of evangelization, landed at St. Kitt's ; and they met with 
such a cordial welcome, that they commenced preaching at once ; 
and, on the departure of the rest, Mr. Hammett was left to 
organize and carry on the Mission. His labours were abundantly 
successful, and, on re-visiting the island in 1789, Dr. Coke 
was delighted to find seven hundred members in society. The 
zealous Doctor again called at St. Kitt's in 1793, and was 
cheered as before with delightful evidences of progress. Mr. 
Hammett was succeeded by Messrs. Harper, Andrews, Truscott, 
Brownell, Jenkins, and others ; and this became one of the 
most prosperous Missions belonging to the Wesleyan Mission- 
ary Society in the West Indies. It now numbers nine chapels, 
four Missionaries, two thousand eight hundred and ninety-nine 
church members, seventeen hundred scholars, and ten thousand 
attendants on public worship. 

Anguilla, or Snake Island, so called from its tortuous or 
eel-like form, is situated in latitude 18° north, and longitude 
64° west, about fifty miles to the north-west of St. Kitt's, and 
separated from St. Martin's by a narrow channel. It is thirty 
miles in length, and scarcely more than seven in breadth, in its 
widest parts. The island is generally flat, without mountains 
or rivers, and differs in its general aspect from most of the 
other West India islands, reminding one rather of some districts 
in Kent or Devonshire. The soil is deep, but chalky, and 
appears not so well adapted for tropical produce; although 
sugar, cotton, and provisions are grown in the island. The 
chief staple for exportation is salt, which is manufactured, and 
shipped to America, in considerable quantities. Anguilla was 
discovered and colonized by the English in 1650, and has ever 

B 2 



244 PART II. — THE TTE5T DTDIES. 

since remained a British possession, having successfully resisted 
every attack made npon it in times of war. 

The Gospel was Gist prea in : is island by a conve 

native, who was himself the fruit :nary labour, and 

was ultimately called to the Christian Ministry. When the 
Mission had been regu _:::::::". resident Missionary 

occupied the station; but of late years, from the smallnes- : 
the population, and the press:: ig demands of other places, the 
]\Iinis:f: has been withdrawn, and the ish it stated 

periods from S: 1 brim's. Anguilla has two chapels, two hun- 
dred and sixty church wumbt ?liolars, and set en hun- 
dred and fifty attendant* on public worsl 

St. Bart's (or St. Bartholomew's is the only island belong- 
ing to Sweden in the West Indies. It was first held by some 
English adventurers, and afterwards by the Trench; but in 
1 7 8 5 it was ceded t : Swc . It is sit ted in latitude 1 7° 4 6' 
north, and longitude G '/- - west, : it eailes 

north of St. Kitt 's. is ssessed of a good harbour; but 

the soil is poor, and the scenery uninviting. It is a small 
island, being only about forty miles in circumference. The 
chief e::;: :::s ere said to be Sn gs and lignum vita. 

The Wesleyan Mission in this island was commenced by the 
Eev. William Turton in the feai H co. On his arrival, he i 
received with gratitude all glasses :: the communi: I 
Governor granted Mm the use :: the ehoreh; but, as this was 
not available for evening meetings, he soon built a chapel, and 
the I tessi : g : : G 3 : e s : e 1 pon fa i s labours. On the removal 
of Mr. Turton, other labourers occupied the field, and the good 
work continued to advance. Among the early Missionaries 
appointed to this station, we notice the honoured names of 
Messrs. Dobson, Whitworth, White, Gilgrass, Ffrench, and 
Felvus. St. Bart's has ::: ~ " -V : 

hundred : tn -eight church members, sixty scholars, and 

three hundred attendants on public worship. 

St. ErsTATirs belongs :: the Dutch; and although it only 
occupies but a humble place among the West India colonies, 
it is, nevertheless, a pleasant little island. It is situated in 
latitude 17 8 5' north, Longitude 63° 0' west, and at a 



CHAP. I. — DESCEIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 245 

-distance of only eight miles south-east from St. Kitt's. Like 
Nevis, the island consists of one conical mountain, with a 
rugged, rocky summit, the gently sloping sides of which are 
adorned with plantations of sugar-cane and yam grounds. 

Dr. Coke earnestly desired to establish a Mission in St. 
Eustatius in 1792; but every attempt was met with the most 
determined resistance on the part of Governor Rennolds, and 
the other civil authorities. It was not till the year 1803 that 
the preaching of the Missionaries was permitted, and the Mission 
regularly formed, although several persons had received good, 
and were holding meetings secretly, long before. The late 
Eev. M. C. Dixon was the first Wesleyan Minister appointed 
to labour in this island ; and, from the very first, the blessing 
of God attended his labours. The Dutch, having no religious 
establishment of their own, encouraged the Wesleyan Mission, 
•and of late years have supported it with a pecuniary annual 
grant. The island has one chapel, one Missionary, two hundred 
and twenty-six church members, one hundred and eighty scholars, 
and Jive hundred and fifty attending public worship. 

St. Martin's belongs to the Dutch and French conjointly ; 
but the Protestant portion of the community of both colonies 
is dependent upon the ministrations of the Wesleyan Mission- 
aries for religious instruction. It may be stated to their credit, 
that both the public functionaries, and the people generally, 
attend the public worship of God with remarkable regularity; 
and of late years both the Emperor of the French and the King 
of Holland have contributed liberally towards the support of 
the Wesleyan Ministry in their respective possessions. The 
Mission in St. Martin's was commenced in 1819, by the Eev. 
Jonathan Eayner, who was called away by death, soon after the 
work was begun ; but he was succeeded by others, whose labours 
have been crowned with success. We now number in both 
departments of the work in this island, three chapels, four other 
preaching -places, two Missionaries, three hundred and fifty -five 
church members, tico hundred and twenty-three scholars, and one 
thousand attendants on public icorship. 

Saba is also a Dutch island, and an out-station was formed 
there, in connexion with the Wesleyan Missionary Society, at 



246 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

an early period ; but, as the population was small, it has never 
been favoured with a resident Missionary, but is visited occa- 
sionally from other islands. 

The Virgin Islands. — This was the name given to a 
cluster of lofty islets arid rocks, about fifty in number, dis- 
covered by Columbus in 1493, in honour of the Eomish legend 
of the eleven thousand virgins. They belong chiefly to Great 
Britain, and those that are inhabited are named respectively 
Tortola, Virgin Gorda, or Spanish Town, Tort Van Dykes, 
Anegada, Peter's Island, and a few others. They are situated 
to the north-west of the Leeward Islands, and Tortola, the largest 
and the seat of government, is in latitude 18° 20' north, and 
longitude 64° 39' west. These islands are celebrated for the 
excellency and great variety of the fish which is caught on their 
shores ; and in some of them mines of copper, black-lead, 
arsenic, and even gold and silver, were formerly worked to> 
advantage. 

The population, both bond and free, amounting to about 
eleven thousand, was said to be in a fearfully demoralized state 
when Dr. Coke first landed in Tortola in 1789 ; but a wonder- 
ful change was speedily effected by the regenerating influence 
of the Gospel. Mr. Hammett was the first Missionary appointed 
to labour in these islands ; and he soon succeeded in gatherings 
a goodly number of the people into church fellowship. He 
was succeeded by Messrs. Owen, M c Kean, Turner, Murdock, 
Brownell, and others ; and the results have been very encourag- 
ing. Tortola is the head of the Circuit, where the Ministers 
reside, and from which they visit the respective keys and islets 
at stated periods. There are now in the whole Circuit seven- 
chapels, two Missionaries, seventeen hundred and twenty-eight 
church members, six hundred and forty -jive scholars, and three 
thousand attendants on public %oorship. 

The islands of St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix belong to 
the Danes ; but the people generally speak English ; and, from 
the personal observations made by the writer on the spot 
several years ago, he is of opinion that if the way were open to 
establish a Wesleyan Mission among them, the result would be 
highly satisfactory. Hitherto the Danish Government have 



CHAP. I. — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 247 

been extremely jealous of the Wesleyan Missionaries, and have 
strictly prohibited them from preaching in any of their colonies, 
fearing the influence which their labours might have on their 
cherished institution of slavery ; but surely the time is not far 
distant when slavery, and religious intolerance, and every 
hinderance to the progress of the Gospel shall be entirely and 
for ever swept aw 7 ^y. 

The Bahamas. — We have now to call the attention of the 
reader to a singular group of islands called the Bahamas. They 
extend in a crescent-like form from the Matanilla reef, in latitude 
27° 50' north, and longitude 79° 5' west, to Turk's Island, in 
latitude 21° 23' north, and longitude 71° 5' west, a distance of 
about six hundred miles. New Providence is the most impor- 
tant island of the group, and the seat of government for the 
whole ; but it is the one named St. Salvador that is celebrated 
as the land first seen by Columbus, on the 12th of October, 
1492, when on his first voyage of discovery to the New World. 
The Bahamas were then densely peopled by the Indian race, 
who were soon shipped off to work the mines of Peru and 
Mexico, when the Spaniards began their search for gold. In 
1629 New Providence was settled by the English, the native 
tribes having become entirely extinct. About twelve years 
afterwards, the Spaniards drove them from the island, and mur- 
dered the Governor, besides committing many other acts of 
cruelty. In 1666, the English again colonized the Bahamas; 
but, in 1703, the French and Spaniards again expelled them, 
and destroyed their plantations. After many other changes, 
and fearful depredations by pirates, the Bahamas were finally 
ceded to the British by treaty in 1783, since which period they 
have remained in our possession. 

Erom the more favourable character of the climate and other 
circumstances, a larger proportion of the inhabitants are whites 
in these islands, than in any other part of the West Indies » 
but, according to undoubted testimony, all classes were in a 
most appalling state of spiritual destitution at the begin- 
ning of the present century, when the Wesleyan Mission was 
commenced for their benefit. The Eev. W. Turton had the 
honour of laying the foundation of this good work, being after- 



24:3 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

wards assisted in his evangelical labours in New Providence 
and the other islands by Messrs. Putledge, Dowson, Wardj 
Moor, and others. The work was ultimately organized into 
regular Wesley an Circuits, which unitedly formed a District, of 
which Mr. Turton was for many years the honoured Chairman. 
There are now prosperous stations at New Providence, Eleu- 
thera, Harbour Island, Abaco, Turk's Island, and some others of 
less importance ; and the Bahama District numbers seven Cir- 
cuits, thirty chapels, nine Missionaries, three thousand six hun- 
dred and sixty -one church members, two thousand five hundred 
and sixteen scholars, and nearly nine thousand attendants on pub- 
lic worship. 

Hayti is the name now generally given to that portion of 
the island of St. Domingo, or Hispaniola, which is occupied 
by a republic of black and coloured people, who cast off the 
yoke of slavery and of the French Government, and declared 
their independence, in IS 03. This little commonwealth, 
exhibiting as it does the capabilities of the Negro race, pos- 
sesses many points of interest to the genuine philanthropist ; 
but we must confine our remarks to the moral condition of the 
people, and the means which have been employed for their 
social elevation. 

In the year LSI 7, the "Wesleyan Missionary Society sent out 
two Missionaries, the Eev. Messrs. Brown and Catts, to com- 
mence a Mission in Hayti. They were kindly received both by 
the Government authorities and the people ; and for some time 
they laboured successfully, without any molestation. After a 
while, however, when the efforts to evangelize the people were 
beginning to produce a powerful and extensive impression, a 
spirit of persecution was excited by the Eomish Priests, and in 
the following year the Missionaries were obliged to leave the 
country. Bat, although left as sheep without a shepherd, the 
converted natives would not return to the thraldom of Popery; 
but endured persecution with a patience and steadfastness 
worthy of the best days of the Christian church. They con- 
tinued to meet together as they had opportunity, and kept up a 
correspondence with their beloved Pastors, informing them of 
their proceedings, and of the course of public events. The way 



CHAP. I. — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. 249 

appearing once more to open, the Mission was re-commenced in 
1835, by the appointment of the Eev. Mr. Tindall, assisted by 
Mr. St. Denis Bauduy, a converted native. Mr. Sharracks was 
sent out the following year ; but he was soon called away by 
death. Other zealous Missionaries followed in succession ; and, 
notwithstanding the difficulties arising from Popish supersti- 
tion, and the wasting character of the climate, the Mission has 
succeeded to a considerable extent. Hayti now forms a 
separate little District, under the able superintend ency of the 
Eev. Mark B. Bird, and numbers seven chapels, three other preach- 
ing places, two Missionaries, two hundred and ninety-two church 
members, four hundred and sixty scholars, and thirteen hundred 
attendants on public worship. 

The southern portion of St. Domingo still remains under the 
dominion of Spain, and, like the parent state, it continues 
involved in midnight Popish darkness. 

Honduras is a British settlement situated on the southern 
part of the continentof North America, in the province of Yucatan ; 
but from its climate, character, and position, it is generally classed 
with the West Indies. The town of Belize, the capital of the 
colony, is situated in latitude 17° 25' north, and longitude 
88° 30' west ; and the territory claimed as belonging to the 
settlement embraces an area of about 62,750 square miles. The 
sea coast is generally flat, and the shore is studded with low 
and verdant isles. On advancing some distance into the 
interior, the country rises into lofty mountains, covered with 
dense forests, interspersed with rivers and lagoons, by means of 
which access is gained to the valuable timber, especially logwood 
and mahogany, of which the principal trade of the settlement 
consists. 

The Wesleyan Mission at Honduras was commenced in 1825. 
The Eev. Mr. Wilkinson was the first Missionary sent out, and 
he commenced his labours in the town of Belize, and among the 
scattered settlements of wood-cutters, on the banks of the 
river, in the true missionary spirit ; but in the course of a few 
months after his arrival he fell a sacrifice to the climate. The 
next Missionary was the Eev. Thomas Johnston, who was also 
called to rest from his labours before the close of the first vear 



250 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

of his appointment. Other Missionaries followed, who were 
spared to labour for a longer period ; and much good was the 
result, the work having ultimately been extended to the islands 
of Ruatan, Corosal, and other places. There are now, in the 
Honduras District, six chapels, ten other preaching -places, four 
Missionaries, seven hundred and ninety -three church members, six 
hundred and ticenty-nine scholars, and two thousand attendants 
on public ic or ship. 

In the year 1829, a Mission was attempted to the wandering 
Indians on Mosquito Shore, in Honduras Bay, by the Eev. Mr. 
Pilley ; but the difficulties were so numerous, and the prospect 
so discouraging, that the undertaking was relinquished. 

The Spanish islands of Cuba and Forto Rico are the head- 
quarters of slavery in the West Indies, and are at present closely 
shut against any efforts which the friends of freedom and of the 
Negro race might wish to make for the benefit of the dark, 
benighted inhabitants. TVhilst I am thus writing, a ray of hope 
seems to shine upon the prospect of the future, hitherto so 
gloom}', by a decree, issued under the sign manual of Isabel II., 
Queen of Spain, bearing date October 27th, 1S65, shoeing that 
the abolition of slavery is now seriously contemplated by the 
Spanish Government. Should this intimation be effectually and 
speedily carried out, slavery throughout the world will receive its 
death blow, and the way be more open to confer still greater 
blessings on the African race. 

The French islands of Martinique, Guadaloupe, and Marie 
Galante, although nominally free, are not much more open to 
evangelistic efforts for the moral improvement of the people 
than the colonies just named. Popery reigns, and rules with an 
iron hand, and her votaries are enslaved to ignorance and 
sensual pleasure. 

St. Lucia, situated between Martinique and St. Vincent's, is an 
English island, having formerly belonged to the French ; and 
being still so far French in the habits and ideas of the people, 
and generally under Eomish influence, very little has hitherto 
been done for their religious instruction. AYesleyan Missionaries 
have at different times visited St. Lucia ; but, from the diffi- 
culties already alluded to, on the one hand, and the want of 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OF DEMERARA. 251 

means for the extension of the work on the other, a permanent 
Mission has not yet been established in the island. 

Having thus given a brief but general view of the situation, 
character, and population of a considerable number of West India 
colonies, as well as of the commencement of missionary operations 
in several of them, we propose to present the reader with more 
minute details concerning those which remain to be noticed. 
They are comprised in the St. Yincent and Demerara Districts, 
in connexion with which the writer spent fourteen happy years, 
in direct efforts to improve and elevate the people. The islands 
which have passed under review were only visited incidentally, 
or seen at a distance, in the course of the author's missionary 
travels ; but those to which we have now to direct the reader's 
attention were the places of his residence, and the scenes of his 
personal labours. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE COLONY OF DEMERAEA. 

Appointment to Demerara — Second Embarkation — Detention in the Isle 
of Wight — Yovage — Arrival — First Sabbath — Aspect of the Country — 
Soil — Staple Produce — Climate — Towns and Villages — Character of 
the Inhabitants — Slavery — Apprenticeship — The Condemned Negro — 
Mission Stations — George Town — Mahaica — Victoria and Golden 
Grove — Essequibo — Berbice — Coolie Mission — Missionary Tour. 

We had been only three months in England, and had scarcely 
recovered from the debilitating effects of our Mission to "Western 
Africa, when I and my dear wife were requested by the Wesley an 
Missionary Committee to go out to the West Indies. The Act 
for the emancipation of all the slaves in the British colonies had 
just passed both Houses of the Imperial Parliament, and the 
Society was making arrangements to send out eighteen additional 
Missionaries, with a view to prepare the people more fully to 



252 PAKT II. — THE "WEST 1NDTES. 

receive the precious boon of freedom, and also with the hope of 
extending the sphere of its operations in that part of the world, 
so soon as every hindrance should be removed out of the way. 
It was under these circumstances that I was honoured to be one 
of a noble band of labourers designated for a department of 
the great work which was very dear to my heart. 

Although we were comfortably settled in a home Circuit, to 
which I had been appointed at the preceding Conference, and 
were surrounded by many kind friends, a call so imperative and 
pressing did not require much deliberation. I remembered the 
reply of the African traveller, Ledyard, under similar circum- 
stances. When his patron inquired at what time he would be 
ready to start on his adventurous journey, he nobly replied, 
" To-morrow, Sir ! " As a Christian Missionary, and in a 
matter of far greater importance, I felt that I ought not to be 
less prompt and explicit in my decision. Therefore, after 
making it a subject of mutual consultation, prayer, and medita- 
tion daring the day, being fully persuaded in our own minds as 
to our path of duty, I wrote by return of post to say that " we 
were ready, at any time, to embark for the West Indies, or any 
other part of the world to which the Committee might think 
proper to appoint us." Accordingly we were requested to pro- 
ceed to London, to prepare for embarkation, and to await the 
departure of a vessel for our new scene of missionary life. 

Demerara was named as the place of our destination ; and on 
Thursday, the 16th of Jauuary, 1834, we embarked for that 
colony, in the ship " Underwood," commanded by Captain 
Wood, a man of considerable nautical experience, and a fine 
old gentleman withal. We were accompanied on board by the 
late Rev. Dr. Beech am and other friends, w r ho soon left us, as 
they had to return to London by the steamer from Gravesend. 
Then came the pain of parting once more ; but on this, as on 
former occasions, our confidence was in God, to whose kind 
care we commended each other in humble prayer, and we found 
" grace to help in time of need." In attempting to proceed 
on our voyage, we met with adverse winds ; and after being 
detained for more than two weeks in the Downs, and tossing 
about in the English Channel, we were obliged to put into 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OF DEMERARA. 253 

Portsmouth harbour for shelter. Thus were we unexpectedly 
favoured to hold sweet intercourse with Christian friends once 
more in dear old England, before we finally left our native shores. 
. We came to anchor on the Mother Bank on Saturday, the 
1st of February, with the beautiful town of Eyde, in the Isle of 
Wight, full in our view. We went on shore about ten o'clock 
a.m., and were delighted to meet with a party of six Mission- 
aries, the Eev. Messrs. Pilcher, Cheesbrough, Gordon, Cam- 
eron, Osborn, and Nunn, who were bound for Antigua, by the 
" Glaphira," which had been detained there for several weeks. 
These devoted servants of the Lord had found comfortable 
homes among the friends of Missions at Eyde during their long 
detention ; and, on our arrival, the same hospitality was cor- 
dially extended to us, by the kind arrangement of the Eev. W. 
H. Sargeant, the resident Wesleyan Minister, and we enjoyed 
the comfortable change from tossing on the stormy sea. The 
kindness of several Christian families, especially those of Messrs. 
Woods, Wedgwood, and Wheeler, on this interesting occa- 
sion, will never be forgotten, nor yet the pleasant and 
profitable intercourse with the noble band of Missionaries 
already named. Little did I then think that four of their num- 
ber would so soon be called away by death, and that we should 
never see them again in this world. But so it was. In a few 
months afterwards, Messrs. Pilcher and Cheesbrough were the 
only survivors ; and, through a kind and gracious Providence, 
they yet live to bless the church and the world with their use- 
ful labours. And still less did I think, at the time alluded to, 
that we should be spared to return to our own clear native 
land, and have the pleasure of labouring in this same beautiful 
Isle of Wight, where I now write and commit to the press these 
humble records of missionary labours. How deep and mysteri- 
ous aio + he dispensations of Divine Providence ! On reviewing 
the past, I feel constrained to acknowledge with adoring grati- 
tude the watchful care and preserving goodness of our heavenly 
Father, so mercifully extended to us. 

On Sunday morning, the 2nd, at seven o'clock, I attended 
an excellent prayer-meeting in the Wesleyan chapel at Eyde ; 
and, immediately after breakfast, we were all summoned on 



254 PAST II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

board our respective vessels, the wind having become fair. We 
weighed anchor, and proceeded as far as the Needles, when the 
wind veered round, and we were obliged to return. We came 
to anchor again on the Mother Bank, about six in the evening, 
having spent an uncomfortable Sabbath in thus vainly 
in«* to get out to sea. The following morning we went on 
shore again; and the friends at Ryde bailed our return with 
every expression of joy ; for, during the stay of the Missionaries 
among them, many delightful meetings had :een held, the Holy 
Spirit was poured out, and there was reason to believe that 
much good had been done through their instrumentality. "We 
now resumed cur meetings, and the chapel was crowded night 
after night with attentive congregations. On Wednesday even- 
ing I preached from Daniel vii. IS, and we had i most delight- 
ful prayer-meeting afterwards, when several penitents were 
seeking mercy. On Thursday evening, we took tea with the 
Rev. Messrs. Phillip po andCouitart, (Baptist Missionaries bound 
for Jamaica.) and other friends, at the residence o: the I fcte Eev. 
T. S. Grayer; and on Saturday, the 8th, the wind having 
become favourable, we took leave of our dear friends at R; 
and proceeded on our voyage to the West Indies. 

We had a fair wind for two or three days, in sailing down 
the Channel: but we had scarcely taken cur last look at dear 
old England, when we encountered a heavy gale, with adverse 
winds, whi:h continued nearly a week. Having crossed the 
Bay of Biscay, the wind was more favourable; and. as Captain 
Wood and his officers were exceedingly kind and attentive, we 
had very little either to impede our progress, or to disturb our 
happiness, during the remaining part of our voyage. Nothing 
remarkable occurred until the evening of Wednesday, the 19th, 
when we were alarmed by the cry of ,; Fire in the hold ! " We 
hastened on deck 3 and saw the smoke ascending near the hatch- 
way ; but the rire proved to be in the long-boat on deck, and 
not in the hold of the ship, as at first supposed. The danger 
to which we were thus exposed, was occasioned either by some 
muriatic acid, or oil of vitriol, having burst the bottle, and 
ignited the straw in which it was packed. We succeeded in 
emptying the contents of the long-boat into the sea before the 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OF EEMEKAEA. 255 

fire had spread ; and we were safe. We could not but recognise 
the hand of Providence in this timely warning, as the con- 
sequences might have been serious, if the fire had not been dis- 
covered until a few hours later. 

We soon entered the tropics, and found ourselves within the 
influence of the trade wind. Sailing now became very pleasant, 
although the heat was somewhat oppressive. On Tuesday 
morning, the 11th of March, finding the water muddy, we 
sounded, and got twenty-four fathoms ; and in the afternoon 
we made the continent of South America. Soon afterwards a 
pilot came on board, and pronounced us fifteen miles to the 
windward of Berbice. TTe came to anchor for the night ; but 
proceeded the next morning, with the coast of British Guiana 
clearly in view. Although the land was low, we could occa- 
sionally distinguish the buildings on the estates, and see the 
smoke as it ascended from the boiling-hGuses connected with 
the sugar-works. About three o'clock in the afternoon, we 
entered the Demerara river, and came to anchor before George 
Town ; of which we had but an imperfect view, as it is situated 
on low ground, and lies embowered in the foliage of beautiful 
and umbrageous trees. 

"We went on shore immediately ; and met with a kind and 
hearty reception from my old friends, the Eev. John Mortiei 
and his amiable wife, as well as from the Eev. Eichard Horna- 
brook, and a number of the dear people connected with the 
Mission, who had heard of our arrival, and were assembled to 
welcome us to their country. On walking over to Kingston, 
the place appointed for our residence, we found another party 
of pious natives waiting to congratulate us on our safe arrival. 
They rejoiced over us with exceeding joy; and assured us 
that they had been instant in prayer that we might be brought 
to them in peace and safety. After partaking of a comfortable 
cup of tea, which the people had kindly provided for us, we united 
in prayer and praise at the throne of the heavenly grace, and 
retired to rest under a grateful sense of the Divine goodness in 
safely conducting us across the mighty deep to the scene of our 
future labours. 

The station to which I was appointed had been left for 



256 PAltT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

several months without a Missionary ; my predecessor, the Eev. 
E. Grieves, having died suddenly on the 31st of July, 1833. 
This circumstance gave additional interest to our arrival ; and 
we were much affected by the touching and artless accounts of 
the people ; how deeply they had been afflicted by the removal 
of their beloved Pastor; and how they prayed that another 
Minister might be sent to feed them with the bread of life ; 
going down to the shore, day after day, to see if there was 
any appearance of a vessel from England, with their expected 
Missionary. Their prayers being now answered, and their 
wishes realized, a general feeling of joy and gratitude was 
diffused among all classes of the community. 

The following Sabbath was a high day. I opened my 
commission by preaching in Kingston chapel, morning and 
evening, to large and attentive congregations. The appearance 
of the people was truly striking ; and afforded a gratifying 
proof of the elevating influence of the Gospel. The congrega- 
tion consisted almost entirely of slaves, and free persons of 
colour ; yet they were neatly clothed, devout in their manners, 
and engaged in the worship of God with a fervour and decorum 
truly cheering to behold. My first sermon was from Acts 
xvii. 20, and appeared to produce a powerful impression; but 
that which affected me most on this occasion, was a little 
incident which quite took me by surprise. As I entered the 
chapel in the morning, and on my first public appearance 
among them, the people, of their own accord, sang the following 

beautiful 

WELCOME HYMN. 

" Welcome ! welcome ! blessed servant, 
Messenger of Jesu's grace ! 
0, liow beautiful the feet of 

Him that brings good news of peace ! 
Welcome, herald ! welcome, herald ! 
Priest of God, — thy people's joy ! 
" Saviour, bless his message to us ; 
Give us hearts to hear the sound 
Of redemption, dearly purchased 
By Thy death and precious wound. 
0, reveal it S 0, reveal it ! 
To our poor and helpless souls. 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OF DEMEEARA. 257 

" Give reward of grace and glory 
To Thy faithful labourer dear : 
Let the incense of our hearts be 
Offer'd up in faithful prayer. 

Bless, bless him ! bless, bless him ! 
Now, henceforth, and evermore ! " 

This was so unexpected, and sung with such good taste, and 
with such evident marks of sincerity, that it produced a thrill- 
ing effect upon my mind ; and I may say that every circum- 
stance attending the commencement of my labours in this place 
inspired me with pleasing anticipations of success. Before 
entering into further details of our missionary operations in 
Demerara, I will endeavour to present the reader with a brief 
sketch of the general aspect of the country, and the progress 
of the work, up to the time of our arrival. 

Demerara is not an island, but a British colony, on the 
continent of South America. It is generally regarded, how- 
ever, as belonging to the West Indies, from the fact that in 
the character of its inhabitants, as well as in its staple produce, 
climate, and other circumstances, it exhibits a striking analogy 
to the islands which bear that name. Demerara, Essequibo, 
and Berbice, were once governed as separate colonies ; but they 
are now united under the general name of the Province of 
British Guiana. The name first mentioned, however, is still 
frequently employed, by way of accommodation to designate 
this part of the British empire ; and it is usually called the 
colony of Demerara. It has a line of coast about two hundred 
miles long, with a width of country inland, not well denned. 
The entire province is bounded on the north by the Atlantic, 
on the west by Dutch Guiana, and on the east and south by 
the State of Venezuela. It appears from the maps that there 
is an extensive tract of country claimed both by Great Britain 
and Venezuela : but there is no reason to apprehend any 
dispute about the " boundary line" for centuries to come, 
as there are still unoccupied, beyond the present cultivation of 
the colony, scores of miles of the richest land, covered with 
the finest timber, where the sound of the woodman's axe has 
never yet been heard. 

s 



258 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

It is the opinion of some, that Columbus saw the coast of 
Guiana in 1458 ; and it has been asserted by others, that it was 
discovered by Yasco Nunez in 1504. It became known, 
however, to the English, in 1595, when Sir Walter Ealeigh 
sailed up the mighty river Orinoco, in his chimerical search 
after the fabulous El Dorado, a city said to be paved with 
gold ! A company of freebooters formed the first English 
settlement in 1634, which was captured by the Dutch in 
1667. After various other changes, the territory now included 
in British Guiana was ceded to the English by the treaty of 
1814 ; and in our possession it has since continued, although 
a considerable number of Dutch residents are still to be found 
in different parts of the colony. 

The general aspect of the country is low and swampy. 
Indeed, some parts of the coast are below the level of the sea; 
and, as the tide rises to an unusual height in this locality, the 
land is only kept from inundation by the construction of exten- 
sive dykes ; with sluices to let the water off, when the tide is 
•down. The plantations and cultivated grounds are laid out 
■at right angles, with the regularity of gardens. Each property 
has generally a narrow sea or river frontage, for the convenience 
of water communication ; and extends its narrow length through 
the entire' width of the cultivation, so as to have the advantage 
of the uncleared forest lands behind. The estates are divided 
from each other by large canals, and intersected by numerous 
drains, that are used not only to carry off the superfluous water, 
but as substitutes for roads, by means of which the produce is 
conveyed in small flat-bottomed boats called punts, from the 
fields to the works, and from the works to the ships, in the river 
or on the coast, as the case may be. This extensive system of 
drainage, rendered necessary by the low marshy character of the 
land, with the construction and repairs of sluices and bridges, are 
heavy items of expense in the working of an estate in Demerara. 
Some compensation is afforded, however, by the peculiarly rich 
nature of the soil, which is suited to the growth of almost 
every kind of tropical produce. The staple articles of export 
have been sugar, rum, cotton, and coffee ; but of late years 
the planters have confined their attention chiefly to the cultiva- 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OF DEMEBARA. 259 

tion of the sugar-cane, and the manufacture of sugar and rum. 
For the growth of the sugar-cane, the soil seems peculiarly 
adapted. In most of the West India islands, it requires to be 
manured, and re-planted^ at least every three years; but here 
it grows almost spontaneously ; and may be cut annually, 
for ten or twelve years, without either re-planting or 
manuring. 

In the rainy season, travelling is very difficult. The roads 
being formed of soft earth, they are soon cut up, and become 
deep and miry. I remember passing over one hundred bridges, 
when travelling between George Town and Mahaica, in a space of 
only twenty-five miles. When these bridges get out of repair, the 
difficulty is increased. A railroad has, however, since been 
constructed, to a distance of thirty or forty miles along the 
western coast, so that travelling in that direction is now much 
more pleasant and expeditious than formerly. 

From the observations already made, the reader will not be 
surprised to hear that the climate of British Guiana is unfriendly 
to the health of Europeans. The atmosphere is generally more 
humid than in the islands ; and ague and fever are frequently 
prevalent. The swarms of mosquitoes, and other stinging 
insects, which are more numerous and troublesome in this 
colony than in other parts of the West Indies, are also sources 
of great annoyance and discomfort, especially to strangers. 
Some Europeans, however, get inured to the climate, and 
become attached to the country, with all its inconveniences ; 
and the natives are as healthy as those of most other regions 
within the tropics. 

George Town, the capital of British Guiana, is situated in 
latitude 6° 36' north, and longitude 52° 15' west. It stands 
on the western side of the entrance to the Demerara river. This 
river has a considerable bar of sand or mud at its embouchure, 
and can be entered by large vessels at high water only. The 
harbour is the mouth of the river itself ; and several wooden 
stellings, or jetties, project from the shore, on which passengers 
and goods are landed. Most of the houses in the town are 
frame buildings, constructed of the native hard-wood timber, 
for which this colony is so famous. They are neatly finished, 

s 2 



260 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

with verandahs in front ; and, when tastefully painted, present 
a pleasing appearance. 

There is no stone, and not even a pebble, to be found in the 
whole country, till we advance forty or fifty miles into the 
interior. The roads in the town and its vicinity have been 
formed of the ballast of vessels trading to the colony, each 
ship being required to leave a certain quantity. Of late years, 
a few good brick buildings have been erected in George 
Town; and altogether the place now wears a respectable 
appearance. The houses are separated from each other by 
gardens and shrubberies ; an arrangement which secures 
ventilation, and is very conducive to health and comfort in this 
sultry and oppressive climate. 

Nearly in the centre of the city, stands an elegant structure, 
called the " Guiana Public Buildings," which would be an 
ornament to any town in Europe. In its architectural design 
and external appearance, it is magnificent ; being built of 
brick, and stuccoed with Koman cement, in imitation of free- 
stone. It is so arranged as to provide for the accommoda- 
tion of all the public offices of the colony under the same 
roof, which is a great convenience. A market-house has also 
been erected, which is very respectable in its appearance, as 
"well as a great accommodation to the inhabitants. The 
churches and chapels are also good buildings, and afford 
pleasing evidence that of late years the people have not been 
unmindful of their spiritual interests. A considerable part 
of George Town was reduced to ashes, by two fires, which 
occurred in April and July, 1864 ; but the burnt districts 
are rapidly rising from the ruins. The inhabitants of the capital 
may be estimated at thirty thousand in number, whilst the 
population of the entire province, according to the last census, 
amounts to one hundred and twenty thousand. 

New Amsterdam, on the eastern side of the entrance of the 
Eerbice river, is the next in importance to George Town ; and 
resembles it in many respects. It is, however, much smaller; 
and the inhabitants may amount to about four thousand. 
Since the emancipation of the slaves, numerous villages have 
sprung up in various parts of the colony, some of which are 



CHAP. II. THE COLONY OF DEMERARA. 261 

very populous. The buildings in these are of small dimensions ; 
and, in general, not of a very substantial character. The num- 
ber of people necessary for the efficient working of a plantation 
is so considerable, that each estate may be said to have its own 
village or hamlet; and the whole country is seen to be dotted 
with these, as the traveller passes along. 

These towns, villages, and hamlets are inhabited by different 
races of people. There ate Europeans, comprising English, 
Scotch, Irish, Dutch, and Portuguese ; Negroes, originally from 
Africa; Coolies from the East Indies, and a few Chinese, 
together with a large and respectable class of black and coloured 
persons, born in the country, and generally designated Creoles. 
On the banks of the rivers and creeks, both within and beyond 
the boundaries of the colony, there are a few wandering tribes of 
South American Indians ; some of whom occasionally visit the 
towns and villages almost in a state of nudity. 

Xone of the West India colonies were more degraded than 
Demerara towards the close of the last century, when the friends 
of Missions began to think of doing something more for the 
benefit of the enslaved Xegro race. Almost all classes of the 
people appear to have been indifferent about sacred things, and 
entirely given up to the sinful pleasures of the world. The 
well-known Quaker philanthropist, Stephen Grellet, in the days 
of his youth, and before he was converted, visited Demerara, 
and the following is his testimony as to the moral condition of 
the people in 1794 : — " It is a place of much dissipation. I 
do not recollect, during the whole time I was there, that I saw 
any thing in any one that indicated a feeling of religious sensi- 
bility. There was no place of worship ; no Priest of any kind, 
except one who had been there a few years, and was a dissolute, 
drunken man. It was of the Lord's mercy that I and the 
whole land were not destroyed, like Sodom and Gomorrah." 

The agents of the London Missionary Society had the honour 
of being the first in this part of the great field. As early as 
1808, the zealous and devoted Kev. John Wray, whose praise is 
in all the churches, commenced his evangelical labours at planta- 
tion Le Besouvenir, under the patronage of Mr. Post, a pious 
Dutchman, the owner of the property. The " Lord of the har- 



262 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

vest" greatly blessed these early efforts in the cause of the 
Redeemer; and a goodly number of poor slaves were made 
spiritually free by the reception of the Gospel. On his removal 
to Berbice, Mr. Wray was succeeded at Le Resouvenir by the 
Rev. John Smith, in 1817, who laboured for some time with a 
cheering measure of success. In the year 1823, however, this 
Mission and its honoured Pastor were involved in severe afflic- 
tion. An insurrection broke out among the Xegroes on this 
part of the coast ; and the authorities attempted to attach 
blame to the poor Missionary, as if he could have had any 
interest in exciting the slaves to rebellion. Mr. Smith was 
forthwith dragged to prison, and his private journal and other 
papers were instantly seized. He was tried by a court-martial, 
and sentenced to death ! The sentence of the court was 
referred home for His Majesty's decision, and the King, well- 
knowing the animus of the West Indian aristocracy at that 
time, was pleased to remit the same ; but required, however, 
that the Missionary should for ever quit the scene of his 
labours. The dispatches containing the royal mandate were 
sent out with all possible speed ; but, before they reached 
Demerara, Mr. Smith had sunk beneath his accumulated 
troubles and cruel treatment, —a martyr in the cause of truth. 
He died in prison, deeply regretted by his brethren ; and his 
happy spirit ascended to that place, where (i his righteousness 
shall be brought forth as light, and his judgment as the noon- 
day" " There the wicked cease from troubling : and there the 
weary are at rest." 

Nothing daunted by these adverse circumstances, the Lon- 
don Missionary Society continued to send out reinforcements 
to strengthen their respective Missions in British Guiana ; and 
they have realized a large ingathering of precious souls into the 
fold of Christ. Of late years, however, their cause has suffered, 
in common with that of other kindred institutions, from the 
effects of the agricultural and commercial depression which ha-s 
overtaken the West India colonies, as well as from political 
agitation, which frequently exists among the people. 

The Church Missionary Society has, for many years, had a 
station among the Indians on the river Essequibo, which has 



CHAP. II, — THE COLON* OF DEMERAEA. 263 

been attended with much good to that long-neglected people ; 
but there are still vast numbers of these aborigines totally 
destitute of the rneans of religious instruction. 

The TVesleyan Missionary Society did not succeed in estab- 
lishing a Mission in Demerara till the year 1815 ; a former 
attempt in 1805 having been frustrated by the expulsion of the 
Missionary, the Eev. J. Hawkshaw, from the colony. Previous 
to that period, their energies had been chiefly directed to those 
places where the call seemed more imperative, in consequence 
of the total lack of evangelical labourers. But the vast field of 
British Guiana was found wide enough for all; and the.Wcs- 
leyan Missionaries could no longer resist the call now made 
upon them for spiritual aid by several of their own people, who 
had removed thither from the neighbouring colonies. Although 
the next attempt proved successful, it was in the face of many 
obstacles and much persecution that the Eev. T. Talboys com- 
menced and prosecuted his labours. At one time his house 
was surrounded by the mob, and his life was in danger ; but he 
persevered in his work, being nobly assisted by two intelligent 
men of colour, Mr. William Claxton and Mr. William Powell, 
who came from Nevis in 1801, where they were converted under 
the preaching of the Wesleyan Missionaries. He was succeeded 
by the Eev. John Mortier, a man remarkably judicious, mild 
and conciliatory in his manners ; but the hostile spirit of the 
Government and the higher classes continued nevertheless. 
Legal restrictions were imposed upon the Missionaries, which 
were very embarrassing, and calculated to impede the progress 
of their work. Por some time no meetings were allowed to be 
held after sunset -, and the Missionary was obliged to resort to 
the expedient of reading written sermons to the slaves, that he 
might be the better able to verify every sentiment which he 
advanced in the course of his ministry, in case any question 
should be raised on the subject. On one occasion, a Society 
ticket was found on the road, having been dropped by a Xegro 
member ; and the passage of Scripture which it bore was inter- 
preted, by some of the wiseacres of that dark period, as favour- 
ing rebellion ! An attempt was made, from this trifling cir- 
cumstance, to raise an open persecution against the Mission. 



264 PAF.T LI. — THE WEST INDIES. 

But Divine Providence, in this induce. : ic enemies 

cf the truth, ana the MissiomuoTS v.-. . ■ ul 

their beloved work. To show how p c ; uudless were 

the jealousies end suspicions :: the pi ante rament 

officials as to tne iuavaeurr ant. tea' . .as :. 

the Missionaries, we may meitement 

caused by the insurrection of 1 S ~ 3 was over, it w. .1 that 

not one member of the TVesleyan Society was concerned in it. 
either directly or indirectly. 

But the : • marked 

not only by difficulties arising from the hostile spirit of the 
planters, but alsc by ::es connected with th : bying 

acter of tne climate 
aside by illness. :r lown 

by death within a day or two :: The Bcr. Mr. 

Ames died at Mahaiea. :a me 1st. and the Eev. Mr. Bellamy. 
at George Town.. :u the 2nd of Xc . 15:21 ; and both 

statiousVere left without a Minister. The Eev. \V. J. — 
bury with : Demerara. from Bar- 

badees. to supply the vacancy till Miss: 
from En-land. 

It is a pleasing fact, however, that, nc nding every 

difficulty, the work ot^ God prospered in Eeim :.n extent 

which scarcely rinds a parallel in the history of Missions. 
Under the zealous labours of the Eev, Messrs. Mortier. Chees- 
wright. Edmendsom Eayner. Yigis, Hornabrc :1a and others, hun- 
dreds and thousand- :: pear Xegrces were gathered into the fold 
of Christ, who will no deadt be their joy and the :: :>v n :: their 
rejoicing in the day of the Lard Jesus. When the dark cloud of 
persecution had in a measure passed ever, elm pels were erecte 
TVerkeu-Bast. Kingston, and Mahaieu. and large congregations 
and churches were collected at each place : and Sal; a ma: :1s 
for the instruction of the rising generation were organized on 
every station. 

On my arrival in Demerara, in 1534. I found, however, that 
all restrictions to missionary labour were net entirely removed. 
Before I could exercise my ministry. I had t: eence 

from the Governor, who carefully inspected my o: a cer- 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OP DSMSBABA. 2G5 

tihcate and other credentials, although he was perfectly cour- 
teous, and spoke highly of our Mission. On examining my 
" licence j: immediately after it came to hand, I was concerned 
to find that it contained a clause requiring me '*' not to allow 
any meeting, at which I was not personally present, to be held 
on the station." Perceiving that this restriction would operate 
very injuriously on our system of Class-Meetings and prayer- 
meetings, as well as on the labours of our two native Catechists, 
W. Claxton and W. Powell, who had been regularly licensed, I 
hastened back with the document, and remonstrated against the 
introduction of such a clause. His honour the Fiscal was then 
sed to say, that he was obliged to use the old form: bu r 
that it was not intended to interfere with any of our usages. 
I am happy in being able to add, that during my sojourn in the 
colony I never met with the slightest interruption from the 
Government authorities or others in the prosecution of my mis- 
sionary labours. 

:ve were several features in the character of our work at 
Demerara, at the period to which I refer, that were peculiarly 
gratifying to my feelings. The congregations, both on Sab- 
baths and week-nights, were almost invariably large and 
attentive; and a lecture which I delivered even' Wednesday 
morning at live o'clock was also well attended. The Sabbath 
schools were flourishing: and on two mornings in the week I 
met the children for catechetical instruction. His Excellency 
the Governor, Sir Carmichael Smith, on attending the examina- 
tion of our schools in Kingston chapel, was pleased to express 
his admiration at the progress the children had made ; and, for 
their encouragement, distributed among them as rewards several 
books and medals. In fact, the whole aspect of the Mission 
was cheering ; a considerable addition was made to the number 
of church members : and I felt myself highly honoured in 
having for my colleague and Superintendent, the Rev. John 
Mortier, a devoted Christian Minister, and the Chairman of the 
District, who had Ions: " borne the burden and the heat of the 
day.' ! * 

* T fears, I had the honour of being associated with this faithful 

servant of the Lord, on this and on other stations ; and I cannot pass on 



Cfo TALI II. — THE VTF5T INDIES. 

While r had thus occasion to rejoice 

: :v of the work, we werenot without our trials and diffici dl ies 



^eree :: teeee cirr-se :::: :: tee exerrtee h: :__._- :; = 
The Ac: of Errtaecfee::::: hee :::: ye: ; :e:e ::::: eyera:::n : ee ■ 
bitter feeling :f asperity existed in many quart e spect 

c: the future. On the CTth ;: Jeer :. "" 
with a tale of ^:e wh ich made heart ache. He had just 
bee:: sold :: a planter living in a distant part of the cou 
in consequence of which he was about to be separated from his 
wife and family, as well as from the means of grace, which he 
highly he I felt most acutely for him; but I could do 
nothing, only pray for him, and exhort him to trust in the 
Lord, and patiently wait for the day of freedom, which 
t edit tilt: £ :: h;.^":: t:o::: the :::::::ry. Seere 
without some painful occurrence of tins Kind ; and. L go believe, 
that if Divine Providence had not interposed, and put an end to 
this Gruel system, the most appalling consequences would have 
f:h:™eei Tee eereie ~ e:; hterrhy "~vre:_ - ey vri.e eerh-f 
ree : - : : : ess: : ::. There were he the ::".::: y :: he 
time 65. '341 sieves: ret. ierieee tee yrr:e.he_ twelve re: tries, 
there he.el heen 4.'2 2e eeaies. axi trhvehST, births: ie:~h::;. 
e ierrerse ie. the sh.~e p:prri:ti:re ;: 1 . 3 c ■! h: ::: Ti.h 

is a simple feet, extracted there the :.e hi teres :■: the 
Ceirterhi Eegistrei e: :he tee: : err:: reey se ve t: he: h:? tie 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OF DEMEKJLRA. 2 67 

The Emancipation Act provided for the abolition of slavery 
on the 1st of August. 1534 ; but before full and unrestricted 
freedom was to be imparted to the poor slaves, there was to be 
an interim of six years' apprenticeship for field labourers, and 
four years for house servants. Only children under seven years 
of age were made fully free at once. If this term of service, 
required in the case of adults, was intended as compensation to 
the planters, then the question might be asked, Were not the 
twenty millions sterling, generously granted by the British 
nation to be divided among the planters, sufficient for the 
purpose ? If it be replied, that it was necessary thai the Negro 
should be instructed in the art of agriculture ; and that, there- 
fore, the term of service was a judicious arrangement ; we 
answer in the language of the Negroes themselves on the occa- 
sion, ''People make prentice for learn to work. Poor Xegro 
work plenty long time : he sabby work very well ; he no want 
massa for make him p rent ice'' The apprenticeship system was 
altogether an unnecessary and vexatious arrangement ; and 
proved to be nothing better than a modified form of slavery. 

Defective, however, as was the apprenticeship, as compared 
with entire freedom, it was hailed with joy as a step in the 
right direction ; and more especially as a definite time was fixed 
when full liberty would be enjoyed by the poor Negro. 1\ i:en 
the 1st of August arrived, it was celebrated as a day of general 
thanksgiving throughout the colony, by order of the Governor ; 
and every place of worship was crowded with devout and 
attentive hearers. TVe endeavoured to adapt the services to the 
particular occasion which called us together, by impressing 
upon the miuds of the people the necessity of rendering thanks 
to Almighty God for His great goodness in bringing about this 
happy change in their condition: and of conducting themselves 
in a proper manner under every circumstance in life. I 
preached at Kingston in the morning from Luke iv. 17, IS ; 
and in the evening from Psalm xcvii. 1. It was a day of 
spiritual good to the people, and everything in George Town 
passed off with perfect order and decorum. 

Some persons in the West Indies and in England also, who, 
from motives of self-interest, had opposed emancipation, pre- 



g£S PART II.— THE WEST INDIES. 

dieted that, on the experiment being tried, it would result in 
confusion, anarchy, and blood ; but, I am thankful to say, that 
the very reverse of this was the case. In some places, where 
the people were imperfectly informed, and where the planters 
were manifestly averse to the approaching change, considerable 
excitement no doubt existed : and it was owing to the good pro- 
vidence of God that the country was not plunged into trouble 
by the very parties who predicted that trouble would come. 
Although I purposely refrain from going into detail with refer- 
ence to matters which were so exciting at the period to which I 
refer, one instance may be given as illustrative of the spirit of 
the times. 

On the east coast of British Guiana, a considerable number 
of Negroes refused to return to their work after the holidays of 
the 1st of August, 1834, being under a misapprehension as to 
the conditions of their freedom. The Magistrates who had pro- 
pounded to them the new law, were generally gentlemen con- 
nected with the planting interest ; and the labourers suspected 
that they had not given them the true version of it. They 
could not believe, they said, that King TVilliam would make 
them free, and yet require them to serve for six years as 
apprentices ; they therefore refused to resume their labour till 
they should know from the Governor the real facts of the case. 
They collected together in a large body, but without arms, near 
the church, and manifested the most determined passive resist- 
ance to every effort which was made to persuade or coerce them 
to return to their duty. The militia were called out, and 
assumed the most threatening attitude, but all to no purpose. 
The district was pronounced by the planters in a state of 
insurrection, and the Governor was requested to proclaim 
martial law. This he refused to do, but proceeded at once by 
steamer to the scene of the disturbance. When the Negroes 
saw the smoke of the Governor's vessel in the distance, they 
rejoiced exceedingly, and prepared to receive His Excellency with 
every demonstration of loyalty. One of the men, named 
Damon, a house-servant, who had only joined them that day, 
but was somewhat more active than the rest, cut down a pele 
in the neighbouring forest, and, having attached to it a piece of 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OF DEMERAKA. 269 

blue cloth, planted it as a flag-staff, as he said, to " show their 
joy at the Governor's coming." This little incident was con- 
strued by the planters into a direct act of rebellion; and on the 
landing of his Excellency, the flag-staff, with the piece of blue 
cloth floating at the top, was pointed to as a proof that the dis- 
trict was in a state of revolt. The people were nevertheless 
orderly and quiet, and formed themselves into two lines, 
between which the Governor passed, whilst they bowed to him 
in respectful reverence, as the representative of royalty. His 
Excellency drew up the troops that accompanied him, and read 
and expounded the new law to the people, admonishing them to 
submit quietly to the apprenticeship, and to return to their work 
at once. Having thus heard how the matter stood from the 
lips of the Governor himself, in whom they had perfect con- 
fidence, the people expressed their readiness to act accordingly, 
and dispersed to their respective estates. 

Here the matter might have ended, in perfect harmony and 
peace ; but it was deemed necessary, by those in power, to make 
an example of the ringleaders in this so-called revolt. Eighteen 
were accordingly arrested, put in irons, and sent to George 
Town, to take their trial for rebellion. I will not attempt to 
describe or characterize the trial which followed. Suffice it to 
say, that poor Damon was pronounced guilty, and sentenced to 
death ; and his seventeen compeers were to be severely flogged 
beneath the gallows, and to be transported for life beyond 
the sea. These sentences were executed to the letter, so far as 
the local authorities had power. Poor Damon was hung on the 
13 tli of October, a day which I shall never forget; and the 
remaining seventeen prisoners, having received the prescribed 
number of lashes under the gallows, were conducted back to 
their prison, fearfully lacerated and covered with blood, to 
await their banishment from the shores of Demerara. A short 
time afterwards they were sent to England as convicts, on their 
way to a foreign penal settlement ; but, by this time, the 
Imperial Government had opened their eyes to the iniquity of 
these proceedings ; and the King of England, to mark his dis- 
approval of the unrighteous sentence, remitted that part of it 
which related to the transportation of the seventeen so-called 



270 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

criminals, and sent them back to Demerara, where they after- 
wards lived to enjoy the blessings of entire freedom. 

But the life of poor Damon — undoubtedly innocent of the 
crime laid to his charge — was gone, and could not be recalled. 
The only alleviation to the pain occasioned by a review of these 
mournful events, is the fact that the poor sufferer was brought 
to a saving knowledge of the truth during his confinement in 
prison, through the instrumentality of a devoted Missionary, 
who visited him constantly till the day of his death. His 
sense of the pardoning mercy of God through Christ was clear 
and joyous ; and he was graciously raised above every feeling of 
fear or dismay. On the day before his execution, he had a 
parting interview with his wife and children. He embraced 
them affectionately, gave them suitable counsel, and, with much 
firmness and fortitude, bid them along farewell. The last words 
which he addressed to his wife are worthy of record : " Go home 
now," said he, " and trust in God, and mind dem children ; 
don't cry for me, me happy now; to-morrow, when white man open 
de door, and take me out for kill me, God sail make me live : I 
sail go to Jesus ! " From the scaffold he addressed a few words 
to the assembled multitude still declaring his innocence, and 
repeating that he raised the flagstaff in honour of the Governor, 
and not as a token of revolt. He expressed his forgiveness of 
every body, as God for Christ's sake had forgiven him, and was 
launched into eternity. 

But I desire to cast a veil over this and many other scenes of 
cruelty which I witnessed in the West Indies, as the bitter 
fruits of slavery ; although I am free to confess that the bare 
review of them, after a lapse of more than thirty years, recalls 
to my mind some of those painful sensations with wmich they 
were associated at the time. The grand alleviation now is the 
comfortable reflection that, throughout the British Empire, 
universal freedom reigns, that American slavery has received 
its death-blow, and that the day of freedom for the last suffer- 
ing slave is rapidly approaching. 

" Haste, happy day, when every child of Adam shall be free ! " 

When the excitement had in some measure subsided, we pro- 
ceeded with our evangelical labours with comfort and success. 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OP DEMERAHA. 271 

We were nobly aided and supported by the friends of freedom 
in England. The British and Foreign Bible Society generously- 
presented to each emancipated slave who could read, a copy of 
the New Testament, in good large type, and substantially 
bound ; and to show the extent to which the Missionaries and 
their teachers had succeeded in diffusing education among the 
people, I may remark that ten thousand copies were required for 
Demerara. It would have delighted the British public, could 
they have witnessed the diligent efforts made by the poor 
Negroes to qualify themselves to put in their humble claim for 
the rift, and the grateful emotions with which thev received 
the precious boon. 

As the limits which I have assigned to these sketches re- 
quire a constant regard to compression and brevity, I will 
conclude the present chapter with a few short notices of the 
respective stations occupied by the Wesley an Missionary Society 
in British Guiana. 

George Town, the capital of the province, is the head of a 
Circuit, and the place where two Ministers reside. One is 
stationed at Werken-Eust, in the upper part of the town, where 
we have a commodious and respectable place of worship, called 
Trinity Chapel, which will seat about twelve hundred persons. 
The congregations are generally good, and the cause is flourish- 
ing. The new chapel is a noble monument of the piety, zeal, 
and benevolence of our people, as well as of the indefatigable 
exertions of the late Eev. W. Hudson, under whose judicious 
superintendence it was erected. Although it was built at an 
expense of about £4,000, it is free from debt, and yields a 
handsome revenue, which is a great help to other departments 
of the work. The old chapel, the erection of which in its day 
was a grand achievement, accomplished by the untiring efforts 
of the late Eev. John Mortier, has been converted into a spacious 
schoolroom, in which a large and efficient day-school is con- 
ducted by a talented Native Teacher, who resides in the rooms 
above, formerly occupied by the Superintendent Minister, who 
now lives in a commodious Mission-House in the adjoining 
street. The other Minister resides at Kingston, in the lower 
part of the city, near the Government-House and the military 



272 PART II, — THE WEST INDIES. 

department, where we have a good chapel, capable of accommo- 
dating about eight hundred persons, erected under the superin- 
tendence of the Rev. Moses Rayner. A. day-school is also in 
active operation. The good work here also wears a pleasing 
aspect. Interesting out-stations have been established at 
Supply, Mocha, Nismes, Rome, Plaisance, and other places, 
which are visited at stated periods, and at some of which neat 
little chapels have been erected, and promising schools estab- 
lished. 

Mahaica is a station in an ancient village, which stands on 
a navigable creek of that name, on the west coast, abont twenty- 
five miles from George Town. In former times this was a very 
important and prosperous Mission, being central to a number of 
populous estates ; but since the recent changes in the civil con- 
dition of the people, many removals have taken place, and the 
number of church-members is considerably diminished. We 
have a good country chapel here, which will seat about eight 
hundred people, and a prosperous day-school. The chapel has 
recently been enlarged and improved at a cost of £950. 
Mahaicony, Perth, Virginia, and some other minor places, are 
visited by the Superintendent Minister and his assistant residing 
at Mahaica, at some of which small chapels have been erected, 
and schools organized. 

Victoria and Golden Gkoye are important villages about 
half way between George Town and Mahaica, and unitedly, 
together with a few minor places, form an interesting Circuit. 
The village of Victoria was built upon an estate purchased by a 
number of the newly-emancipated slaves, as a joint-stock company. 
Having obtained possession of their respective lots of land, and 
erected comfortable little cottages for themselves, they made a 
noble effort, and erected a substantial and handsome chapel in 
the centre of the village, w T hich will probably accommodate seven 
hundred people. I had the pleasure of being present at the first 
Missionary Meeting ever held in this place, when there was a 
fine display of Christian zeal and liberality. Friendship, 
Buxton, and Ann's Grove are out-stations, with a large number 
of church-members, neat little chapels, and prosperous schools. 
They are visited in rotation by the two Missionaries who labour 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OF DEMERABA. 273 

in this Circuit. The work in this neighbourhood may be re- 
garded with additional interest, from the circumstance that it 
was commenced by an Evangelical Clergyman of the Church of 
England ; who, finding himself unable to submit to the Pusey- 
istic demands of his diocesan, declared his independence. After 
remaining in an isolated position for two or three years, he 
sought and found for himself and his people an asylum within 
the pale of the Wesleyan Church, where he could enjoy liberty 
of conscience, and be unfettered in his efforts to diffuse a know- 
ledge of the Eedeemer. He soon afterwards returned to England, 
and ultimately settled on the continent of Europe. 

Essequibo is now the name given to a Circuit which was 
formerly known as Abram Zuil, on what is called the Arabian 
Coast, in a rural district, on the west of the Essequibo river. 
The Mission was commenced by the Rev. Richard Hornabrook 
in the year 1836, and has exerted a very beneficial influence in 
that part of the country. Out-stations were ultimately estab- 
lished at Zorg, Queen's Town, Menezer, Anna Regina, Daniel's 
Town, and more recently on the island of Wakenaam. At some 
of these places chapels have been erected, and schools estab- 
lished ; whilst at others strenuous efforts are being made to 
supply what is wanting to give stability and permanence to the 
good work. 

Berbice is comparatively a new Mission, having only 
enjoyed the advantage of a resident Missionary for a few 
years. Our services were imperatively called for at this 
place, so remote from our other stations in British Guiana, by 
the circumstance of a considerable number of our people having 
removed thither from the Leeward Islands, to say nothing of 
the wide field for evangelical labours among a dense population. 
Several respectable persons of Dutch descent were also anxious 
to have a Wesleyan Minister, and generously offered the free 
use of the Dutch Reformed church and parsonage, with sub- 
stantial pecuniary aid besides. Under these favourable cir- 
cumstances, the Mission was commenced in 1847, and more 
fully organized in 1853; the Rev. John Wood, Jun., being the 
first resident Missionary. He was succeeded by the Rev. 
Messrs. Padgham and Banfield, whose labours were made a 

T 



274 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

great blessing to the country. Out-stations have been formed 
at Smith Town, Stanley Town, and Cumberland, and a good 
work is in progress throughout the Circuit. 

The Coolie Mission in Demerara is for the special bene- 
fit of the many thousands of Coolies who have been imported 
from India, to supply the lack of labour which was alleged to 
exist in the colony. By this arrangement these heathen 
strangers have the privilege of hearing the Gospel in their own 
tongue; and the result has been so far encouraging. 

The Wesleyan Circuits in British Guiana have once more 
been formed into a separate District, under the able superin- 
tendence of the Rev. H. Bleby ; and, from the character of the 
field, and the noble staff of labourers who occupy it, we may 
anticipate that the future for success and blessing will not only 
be as the past, but much more abundant. We have now in 
the colony twenty-three chapels, ten Missionaries, three thou- 
sand one hundred and fifty -two church members, about three 
thousand scholars, and upward* of eleven thousand attendants on 
public worship. 

After labouring for a little more than a year in Demerara, we 
embarked for Barbadoes, to which I had been appointed by the 
Committee, on account of the partial failure of my health. The 
dear friends with whom we were associated, had shown us much 
kindness ; and the separation appeared equally painful to both 
Pastor and people. Our attachment to this our first station in 
the West Indies was not evanescent, but enduring ; and we have 
never ceased to cherish an affectionate remembrance of the 
place and the people, or to pray for the blessing of God to rest 
upon them. 

I had the pleasure of revisiting the colony of Demerara in the 
month of February, 1847, to attend the annual District Meet- 
ing, after an absence of twelve years. Of course many changes 
had taken place in the interim ; but I found a few old friends, 
who rejoiced exceedingly at the privilege of meeting once more 
in the flesh ; and I had occasion to thank God for the growth 
and extension of the good work since my departure from the 
colony. After the termination of our business I took an inter- 
esting missionary tour through the province, in company with 



CHAP. II. — THE COLONY OF DEMEBABA. 275 

my clear brethren, the Bev. William Bannister and the Bev. 
William Hudson, both of whom have since been removed to the 
" better country.'' We preached and held Missionary Meetings 
in George Town,* Victoria, Mahaica, and Berbice. At New 
Amsterdam we preached in the Dutch Reformed church, and 
held some interesting meetings with our Society, which had 
been regularly organized, and consisted of nearly one hundred 
members, who earnestly desired a resident Minister, having 
hitherto only been visited at stated periods by the Ministers 
from George Town. 

I cannot close these brief notices without expressing my convic- 
tion, that, notwithstanding the efforts hitherto made for the evan- 
gelization of British Guiana, it still presents to the friends of Mis- 
sions a field of labour which is peculiarly inviting. Among the 
dense population which everywhere abounds, many more Mis- 
sionaries might be usefully employed, and fruit would, no doubt, 
appear in due time. It is a pleasing fact, that our native 
churches in Demerara have for many years past been entirely self- 
supported; and have contributed largely towards sending the 

* At the Missionary Meeting in George Town, which was the first ever held 
in the new Trinity chapel, the chair was occupied by M. J. Retemeyer, 
Esq., Her Majesty's Receiver General in British Guiana, and a friend of 
Missions, whose name is worthy of a place in every sketch of our work in 
Demerara. Mr. Retemeyer was himself the fruit of missionary labour. 
Occupying a high and honourable position in the colony, like thousands 
more, he continued in a great measure indifferent to Divine things, till the 
early part of the year 1835, when he was induced by a favourite domestic 
one Sabbath to attend the Wesleyan chapel. ^^ esteemed Superintendent, 
the late Rev. John Mortier, was the officiating Minister ; and he commenced 
the service by giving out the hymn commencing, — 

" 'tis enough, my God, my God! 

Here let me give my wanderings o'er." 

The. impression made by this hymn, and the discourse which followed, 
resulted in the conversion of the distinguished stranger; who soon after 
united himself in church-fellowship with us, and became henceforth a fast 
friend and liberal supporter of our work. Mr. Retemeyer died very happy 
in God, in George Town, on the 14th of March, 1830. See an interesting 
Memoir of this Christian gentleman in the Wesleyan Magazine for 1S52, 
by the Rev. James Bickford, p. 1. 

T 2 



276 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

Gospel to heathen lands. For zeal in the cause of God, and 
love for their Ministers, the people have always been most 
exemplary. 



CHAPTER III. 

THE ISLAM) OF BABBADOES. 

Appearance of the Island — Discovered by the Portuguese — Settled by 
the English — Inkle and Yarico — Early Prosperity — Causes of Declen- 
sion — Aspect of the Country — Towns and Villages — Codrington Col- 
lege — Moral Condition of the People — Quakers — Moravians — Wes- 
leyans — Early Persecution — Improved Prospects — Renewed Opposition 
— Destruction of the Chapel — Re-establishment of the Mission — Pros- 
perity of the "Work — William Reece, Esq. — Hurricane — Mission 
Stations — Bridge Town — Providence — Ebenezer — Speight's Town — 
Scotland. 

At certain seasons of the year, the navigation between 
Deraerara and Barbadoes, for sailing vessels, is somewhat 
difficult and uncertain, owing to the strong current occasioned 
by the mighty volume of water poured into the Altantic Ocean 
from the numerous mouths of the river Orinoco. This was the 
case when we first made the passage in a small schooner called 
the " Paget," commanded by Captain Mann. After being at 
sea five days, in boisterous weather, during which our top-mast 
was carried away, we discovered that we were considerably to 
the leeward of the island, and were obliged to beat up against 
the wind. We made the land, however, on Wednesday morn- 
ing, the 25th of March, 1835. Barbadoes is not mountainous, 
like most of the West India Islands ; but rises gradually out of 
the sea, to a moderate elevation ; and has been compared, when 
seen at a distance, to a huge turtle floating on the surface of 
the water. In the afternoon, we came to anchor in Carlisle 
Bay, and landed in Bridge Town, where we were kindly received 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAND OF BARBADOES. 277 

by the late Eev. James Bathbone and the Eev. James Aldis, 
ihe Wesleyan Missionaries then resident in the colony. 

Before proceeding with the observations which I have to 
make on the character and results of our united missionary 
labours during my personal connexion with this interesting 
station, I shall take the liberty of presenting to the reader a 
brief sketch of the history and general aspect of the island, as 
w T ell as of the rise and progress of Methodism, up to the time 
of our arrival. 

Barbadoes is situated in latitude 13° 10' north, and longitude 
19° 42' west; and being to the windward of all the other 
islands, it is generally the first land made by vessels sailing 
from Europe to the West Indies. Notwithstanding this cir- 
cumstance, it does not appear to have been visited by the 
enterprising Columbus at the time he discovered several of the 
other islands and the continent of America. The honour of dis- 
covery seems to have been reserved for the Portuguese, who aresaid 
to have landed on the island in the year 1600. These adventurers, 
however, formed no settlement, neither did they take formal 
possession of the country ; but merely put on shore a couple of 
swine, and then passed on to other lands in search of gold. It 
is very remarkable that, when first discovered, Barbadoes was 
not only without inhabitants, but there appeared no visible 
trace of its ever having been visited by any human being. 
Subsequent observations, however, have led to the conclusion 
that it must have been inhabited, probably by a tribe of Caribs, 
though at a remote period, as specimens of antique earthenware 
and other articles have been dug out of the ground. 

In the year 1605, an English ship called the "Olive Blos- 
som," which was on her voyage from London to Surinam, 
touched at the island. The Captain and a few men landed, and 
formally took possession of it in the name of " James King of 
England." Having erected a cross, and carved an inscription 
on a tree, to commemorate their visit, they took their departure. 
Some years afterwards, another English ship, belonging to Sir 
William Courteen, on its return from the Brazils, was driven to 
Barbadoes by the violence of a tempest, and took shelter in the 
harbour. On landing, the Master and seamen observed the 



278 PABT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

memorial of the previous visit of their countrymen. The hogs 
that had been left by the Portuguese were greatly increased in 
number, and the woods were filled with these useful animals, 
thereby affording a good supply of provisions for the use of the 
ship's company. This vessel carried home a very favourable 
report of the island, and considerable interest was excited in 
England at the time. 

In 1624 the enterprising Sir William Courteen collected about 
thirty persons, to go out for the puq:>ose of forming an English 
settlement in Barbadoes. They were provided with provisions, 
seeds, and agricultural implements ; and on their arrival, towards 
the close of the year, they commenced building their houses, 
and clearing the land, in the place where Hole Town now stands. 
A person named William Dean was appointed Governor of the 
little colony. The whole island was at that time thickly wooded, 
and it w 7 as by great labour and perseverance that this little band 
of adventurers established themselves in this the land of their 
adoption. In 1629, the colony was reinforced by the arrival of 
sixty-four emigrants from England, under the patronage of 
Lord Carlisle, who had obtained from King Charles a grant, by 
patent, of the whole island. Considerable unpleasantness and 
litigation now occurred among different parties who claimed a 
right in the soil. Sir William Tufton, who had been appointed 
Governor by Lord Carlisle, was tried by a court-martial, found 
guilty of treason, and condemned to be shot. This severe 
sentence w r as carried into execution with as little ceremony as 
there was justice in the proceedings. The colony was after- 
wards considerably increased by the arrival, at different times, 
of persons who had fled from England on account of the 
political agitations in which Great Britain, in common with the 
whole of Europe, was at that period involved. These parties 
are described as coming chiefly from Kent, Suffolk, Essex, 
Hertford, Devonshire, and Cornwall, who brought with them, in 
some instances, a considerable amount of capital as well as 
habits of industry and enterprise. 

The European emigrants who first settled in the island of 
Barbadoes had not advanced far in the work of building, clear- 
ing, and planting, before they felt the want of additional 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAND Of BAKBADOES. 279 

labourers. There were only two classes of people which seemed 
likely to endure the fatigue and exhaustion of a tropical 
climate, — the Indians of America, and the Negroes of Africa. 
They first tried the neighbouring continent, and succeeded in 
dragging away a number of poor Caribs into abject slavery. As 
soon as the object of the visits of the white men became known, 
the natives mustered their forces ; and when tneir enemies 
returned on one occasion, they met with the most vigorous 
resistance. Several of the Europeans were killed, and the rest 
fled for their lives into the neighbouring woods. One of the 
fugitives was a man named Inkle, who was afterwards dis- 
covered in his retreat by an amiable young Carih girl called 
Yarico. This daughter of the forest pitied the forlorn white 
man, and, instead of reporting him to her Chief, she formed the 
noble resolution of secretly supporting him in his solitude till 
he could make his escape, Faithful to her engagement, she 
daily carried him food, and watched over him with a sister's 
care. At length she saw an English vessel hovering off the 
coast, and instantly made him acquainted with the joyful 
tidings. She now became his guide, and conducted him to the 
coast, where he succeeded in communicating with the vessel. 
When Inkle was about to step into the boat, the Indian girl felt 
reluctant to bid a final adieu to the white man, for her friendship 
had ripened into affection. She therefore asked permission to 
accompany him to the " land of the pale-faced strangers." The 
Englishman complied. They embarked together, and landed in 
Barbadoes in safety, where, horrible to relate, the monster 
Inkle, breaking through every obligation of humanity, affection, 
and gratitude, immediately sold his deliverer as a slave ! This 
is but one of many instances of the cruelty and injustice of 
our countrymen with which we meet in the early history of 
colonization. The poor Caribs thus brought to the island never 
answered the purpose for which they were imported, but soon 
wasted away, under the oppressive treatment of their cruel 
masters, not one being left to tell the tale of their suffering 

The colonists next turned their attention to Africa ; and as 
the slave trade had then become a regularly authorized system 
of traffic, the poor Negroes were brought by hundreds and 



280 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

thousands to Barbadoes, and ultimately became far more 
numerous than the original settlers. 

This being the oldest of the British West India colonies, and 
never having been possessed by any other European power, it 
rapidly advanced to a state of unparalleled prosperity. As early 
as 1670, it could boast of a population of one hundred and 
fifty-seven thousand, one-third of whom were whites, and the 
remaining two-thirds Negro slaves. Considering the extent of 
ground occupied, this is a higher state of population than can 
be found in Holland, China, or any other country most famous 
for numbers. Such was also the extent of the commerce carried 
on with England and other countries, that constant employment 
was given to four hundred vessels, averaging one hundred and 
fifty tons' burden each. 

Various causes contributed to the gradual decline, for several 
years, of the agricultural and commercial prosperity with which 
Barbadoes was distinguished at this early period of its history. 
The colony was much distracted by political agitation, in conse- 
quence of the oppressive taxes imposed by the Home Govern- 
ment, and other matters of alleged grievance. When an 
expedition was fitted out against Hispaniola, under the command 
of Penn and Venables, Barbadoes furnished three thousand five 
hundred men to aid in the attack. This expedition failed in its 
intended object ; but it resulted in the capture of Jamaica from 
the Spaniards. From that time Jamaica became a powerful 
rival to Barbadoes, as it attracted a large portion of the atten- 
tion and capital of the mother country. In addition to these 
untoward circumstances, this island was repeatedly called to 
suffer from the destroying elements of nature. In the month 
of August, 1675, a dreadful hurricane laid waste the whole 
country; in 1766 a destructive fire reduced Bridge Town, the 
capital, to a heap of ruins; and in 1780 another awful hurri- 
cane passed over the land, carrying destruction and death in its 
mighty sweep. In the last-named calamity, four thousand three 
hundred and twenty-six of the inhabitants were buried in the 
ruins, while property was destroyed to the amount of one 
million and a half sterling. 

In after years the colony recovered in some measure from the 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAKD OF BAHBADOES. 281 

effects of these sad disasters ; but, from its geographical posi- 
tion, it is always liable to the frequent occurrence of hurricanes, 
a long list of which might be given in addition to those already 
mentioned. A part of Bridge Town, which had risen from its 
former ruins, was again destroyed by fire a few years ago ; so 
that this island has had frequent checks to its advancement, to 
say nothing of the exhaustion of the soil, and the frequent 
occurrence of drought, since the country was cleared of its 
virgin forests. Notwithstanding these adverse circumstances, 
Barbadoes will bear a favourable comparison with most of the 
other West India colonies, both as it regards the state of its 
agricultural and commercial interests, and the moral and social 
condition of the inhabitants. 

The island of Barbadoes is from north to south about twenty- 
two miles long, and from east to west fifteen broad. It is 
nearly surrounded by a coral reef, which, with the addition of 
military fortifications in those places which are accessible to 
vessels, defend it from the attack of an enemy. The general 
aspect of the country is of a pleasing character, and bears a 
more striking resemblance to England than any other country 
within the tropics that I have visited. Instead of the bold and 
romantic scenery which distinguishes most of the West India 
Islands, we have in the interior of Barbadoes a gently undulating- 
surface, presenting the agreeable variety of sloping hills and 
fertile valleys. On the windward coast, however, the scenery is 
somewhat different. Bold and rugged acclivities rise from the 
shore to an elevation of about one hundred feet each, and are 
separated by terraces nearly half a mile in breadth, which are 
highly cultivated, and form a beautiful contrast to the barren 
rocky precipices that intervene. Since the dense forests which 
once covered the country have disappeared, wood has become a 
scarce commodity, and it is found necessary to import it from 
other islands. The quantity of rain which used to fall annually 
is consequently diminished, to the occasional inconvenience of 
the planter. But these drawbacks are more than compensated, 
as it regards the health of the inhabitants, by the improvement 
of the climate. The lands having been laid open, the breeze 
circulates without obstruction, stagnant vapours are prevented, 



2S2 PAET II. — THE WIST INDUS. 

and the air is ren aered arte ami vh:las:me. Barbadoes may 
now be regarded as favoured with one of the most healthy 
climates for Z artpeans within the trtpits. 

Hie bull firms connected pritb the respective estates are 
generally _::a ami substantial, fein erettel st as :; resist the 
violence :: the stories which at :ert ... ; mstns sweep : 
country. The Gelds ire .aid out with considerable taste, and 
are frequently interspersed with cocoa-nut and other trees, 
presenting to the view a prospect truly delightful. The soil 
varies considerably in different parts of the island; but it is 
generally found to be suitable for the growth of sugar and 
ginger, which are the staple articles of export, and also for the 
production of the provisions and fruits which are required for 
home consumption. From the length of time that the land has 
been under constant cultivation, its original strength is, in a 
m e a sure, e : o sled ; n 1 i t now requires particular management 
and careful manuring, to produce good crops. By the applica- 
tion of agricultural skill, and the use of ordinary means, the 
soil is, however, very productive: and the sugar manufactured 
in Barbalces is mleoratea tbr its mmllent rualtty. I . ieamr 
ectutmy is tbserved in :;..;:: tie rmum,. ;.:tf mmtst every 
acre ana turd in the island :ai aile :: urtdt :.i_ ( .i' 11: a 



Barbauces :f::e a rue held fir the itrvrsriuatitns :: tae uataral- 
ist. Tae summits :: tae hills bear evident tiaras :: : sub- 
riariae :ri_im aid numerous valuable tbssils have beer, collected. 
In the animal luuuftm there are neither tuaauruueus ntr birds 
worthy ct partictiar uttite. Mtnheys aid ratttnswere itr- 
merly very numerous, but they have now :::ahy cbUappeared. 
Various kinds of snakes and lizards are found in great abundance. 
At first these rea tilts are vary roitntviir te strains, as they 
sometimes rind their wmy into the htuses of the inhabitants:* 

* I reraermer. :l ::a -. .. ... ; -::•;: ::a: : :he ; : :■— :L _ h.i 

I was =:t::iz. &i heck of the cat, which had been 

cuiei'v Wizz c.' ev :"ea, V.u vrbii-r. r:: — r.l=.v:ih" v ":::_ ::.: ru: Truer, is 
of the rerthe. Thr 7::: creature rah :f wi:h i:s .i;-_-:--.-.\; : . ".. ;..'::. 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAND OF BAItBADOES. 283 

but they are generally harmless, and soon cease to be objects of 
terror. The polypus is found here in great perfection, and 
various kinds of fish are caught along the shore. Some remark- 
able wells of tar-water have been discovered ; and a small pool 
at the bottom of a little glen in Turner's Hall Wood emits a 
volume of inflammable gas. These, with a few other natural 
curiosities, are worthy of careful scientific examination. The 
island is almost destitute of rivers, properly so called ; but there 
are several small streams or rivulets in different parts of the 
country, besides the Mole, which is the principal one. A tole- 
rable supply of water is also obtained from numerous spring- 
wells, and from reservoirs which are filled during the rainy 
season. 

Bridge Town, the capital uf the colony, is an extensive city. 
with a population of upwards of twenty thousand. It is erected 
chiefly of stone, and contains some handsome buildings ; but 
the streets are too narrow, and the houses are formed too much 
after the English style, and too closely crowded together, to be 
conducive to health and comfort in a tropical climate. Many 
of the merchants have commodious country villa residences, at 
a convenient distance from the town, with gardens and pleasure- 
grounds beautifully laid out. The residence of His Excellency 
the Governor, called " Pilgram," about a mile from Bridge 
Town, is a splendid mansion ;. and St. J ames's Barracks, about 
the same distance in another direction, are commodious and 
elegant buildings. Fonta Belle and Hastings are suburban 
villages and fashionable watering-places, possessing every con- 
venience for sea-bathing, as well as many cool airy residences. 
Speight's Town, Hole Town, Oistin Town, and Bath, can only 
be regarded as villages, notwithstanding their high-sounding 
names, and the undoubted increase of the population of most of 
them since emancipation. 

climbed to the roof of the house, and, after running about in a wild and 
frantic state for some time, plunged into a perpendicular water-spout. For- 
tunately for the poor cat, the spout was too narrow to admit of its descend- 
ing far. By means of a ladder I succeeded in extracting it from this perilous 
position, and in releasing it from the grasp of the reptile which had caused 
its fright, before it was entirely strangled. 



284 PAfcT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

In the parish of St. John, about twelve miles from the 
metropolis, there is a college, endowed with a large estate; 
formerly producing £3,000 per annum. This was the gift of a 
Mr. Codrington, whose name the institution bears. It is 
situated in a beautiful and picturesque valley ; and when 
beheld from the neighbouring hills, presents a pleasing object 
to the eye, and gives effect to the surrounding scenery. A 
proper application of this munificent donation might be made a 
great blessing to the island, by affording a superior religious, 
classical, and commercial education to the youth of the country 
generally ; but, like many other excellent charities, it appears 
to be diverted somewhat from its original purpose ; and is, 
at present, accessible only to a very limited number of students, 
who are designed for the clerical profession. 

The population of the whole island, according to the last 
census, amounted to one hundred and thirty thousand; includ- 
ing whites, blacks, and a large and respectable class of coloured 
persons. Towards the close of the seventeenth century, all 
ranks of the community are represented as being in a fearful 
state of spiritual destitution. The island had been divided 
into eleven parishes, it is true ; but in most cases they were 
parishes without priests ; and such was the character of the 
few who did fill the sacred office in the national establishment, 
that the whole country might be regarded as almost entirely 
destitute of the saving light of the Gospel. 

At an early period, a few pious Quakers, who had settled in 
the island, being influenced by feelings of pity and com- 
passion for their fellow men, began to teach a few Negro slaves 
a knowledge of the Gospel. This humble effort to do good 
met with decided opposition from the ruling powers and the 
resident clergy ; * and a law was passed, prohibiting the 

* The following extract from a high authority among the " Society of 
Friends " presents a gloomy picture of the moral state of the community 
at this early period, and exhibits the spirit of persecution that prevailed 
among certain parties in the colony. " In the island of Barbadoes, those 
called Quakers suffered also much by the people, instigated not a little by 
the Priests, Samuel Graves, Matthew Gray, Thomas Manwaring, and 
Francis Smith : for these being often drunk, gave occasion thereby to be 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAND OF BARBADOES. 2 35 

Negroes from attending any meeting-house whatever. The 
same act contained a clause, which forbade Dissenters to instruct 
their pupils, or to keep schools in the island. The humble and 
unassuming class of religionists, against whom this persecuting 
measure was chiefly directed, have since disappeared from the 
colony ; and the spot of ground on which their Cf meeting- 
house " once stood, is pointed out as a relic of past history. 

In the year 1765, two Moravian Missionaries were sent to 
Barbadoes ; one of whom died soon after his arrival, and the 
other, seduced by the love of the world, abandoned the Mission, 
and settled as a merchant ; whilst a third, who was sent to fill 
the place of the first, soon followed him to the silent tomb. 
About two years afterwards, Mr. Bruckshaw arrived, and was 
joined by Mr. Bennett from America, and others. For some 
time their united labours were crowned with success ; but on 
the death of Mr. Bennett in 1771, and the removal of Mr. 
Bruckshaw to Antigua, the Mission began to decline, and 
continued in a languishing state for several years. After 
passing through various vicissitudes, a measure of prosperity 
was again realized: and of late years the " Brethren " have 
been pursuing their useful labours with some degree of encou- 
ragement ; the number of converts having considerably increased. 
The respective stations of the Moravians in Barbadoes are 
Bridge Town, Sharon, and Mount Tabor. 

On the 4th of December, 17 S3, Dr. Coke arrived in 
Barbadoes, with the Rev. B. Pearce, a Wesleyan Missionary, 
who had been appointed to labour in the island. In this 

reproved. And one Thomas Clark, coming once into the place of pnblic 
worship, and exhorting the audience to desist from lewdness, and to fear 
God, was so grievously beaten with sticks that he fell into a swoon ; and 
Graves, who preached then, went to the house of the said Clark, pulled his 
wife out of doors, and tore her clothes from her back. And Manwaring, 
who had threatened Clark that he would procure a law to be made, by which 
his ears should be cut off, once wrote to him thus : f I am sorry that your 
zeal surpasseth your moderation, and that a club must beat you out of what 
the devil hath inspired. 5 And this was because Clark had told him that his 
conversation was not becoming a Minister of the Gospel. Other rough 
treatment Clark met with I pass by, though once he was set in the stocks 
and imprisoned."— Sewell's " History of the Quakers." 



2S6 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

instance, as in many others, the way had been prepared by a 
kind and gracious Providence. A few pious soldiers had 
previously arrived from Ireland, and were patronized in their 
efforts to do good by Mr. Button, a merchant who generously 
allowed them the use of a large warehouse in which to hold 
their meetings. These zealous sons of " green Erin " received 
the Missionaries with feelings of the liveliest joy, having been 
personally acquainted with Mr. Pearce before they embarked for 
the West Indies. On the following evening, Dr. Coke preached 
in the soldiers' humble house of prayer to an overflowing 
congregation. The zealous Doctor soon took his departure 
for St. Vincent's, and Mr. Pearce pursued his missionary 
labours for some time, with pleasing prospects of success, in 
the various openings which presented themselves, both in town 
and country. 

About two years afterwards, Dr. Coke again visited Barba- 
does, when he found that a spirit of persecution had been 
awakened, and that the public worship of God, as conducted 
by the Missionary, had been frequently disturbed by the mob, 
and his dwelling-house assailed by the ribald multitude. Those 
who had joined the Methodist Society, received by way of 
reproach the name of i: Hallelujah. 55 Even the little Negroes 
had learned the appellation, and would call them by that name, 
as they passed along the streets. Notwithstanding the perse- 
cution which had raged, a chapel had been erected, that would 
contain about seven hundred persons ; but the success realized 
in the actual conversion of sinners to God was not to be com- 
pared with that of many of the other "West India Islands, 
where the Missionaries had commenced their labours : neither 
was it considered by any means commensurate with the labour 
which had been bestowed upon the station. The few who 
were united in church fellowship were, nevertheless, truly pious, 
and devoted to God : and the Missionaries were encouraged to 
persevere in their work of faith and labour of love. 

On the 26th of November 1791, the Eev. John Kingston 
arrived from England, to labour in Barbadoes, in conjunction 
with the Eev. Matthew Lumb, who had succeeded Mr. Pearce. 
Being encouraged by a few friendly planters in the country, the 



CHAP. III. THE ISLAND OF BARBADOES. 287 

Missionaries gladly embraced the opportunity of extending their 
labours to the slaves on several estates in the rural districts ; 
but still they had to complain that the results were not accord- 
ing to their expectations. On the 12th of December, 1792, 
the Kev. A. Bishop arrived from America, and the following 
month Mr. Kingston removed to Nevis. In the month of 
August, 1793, the Eev. Daniel Graham, who had come to 
strengthen the Mission, died of yellow fever ; and a few days 
afterwards intelligence was received of the death of Mr. Pearce, 
of the same fatal malady, on board a ship, on his way to 
Barbadoes, from Grenada, where he had been on a missionary 
visit. After the removal of the Bev. James Alexander, in 
1798, the island remained without a Missionary for a whole 
year. 

Thus was this infant station tried in various ways, so that 
on the arrival of Mr. Bradnack in 1804, he was constrained 
to give a very gloomy and discouraging account of the state 
of the work. A further bereavement was experienced in 1807, 
by the sudden death of the Rev. Mr. Bobinson, the only 
Missionary in the island ; so that the people were once more 
left as " sheep having no shepherd." While the station was 
thus deprived of the labours of a regular Minister, the few 
members of the Society were kept together, and Divine worship 
was conducted by Mr. Beck, an old disciple of blessed memory. 
He was occasionally assisted in his humble efforts to do good 
by Mr. Chapman, of St. George's, (at whose house Mr. Bobin- 
son died,) and by Mr. Brown of Christchurch, another devoted 
Christian of those times. During the years which intervened, 
the station was sometimes occupied by a Missionary, and 
sometimes vacant, just as the necessities of other islands 
presented stronger claims : it is not therefore matter of surprise 
that so little impression was made upon the minds of the 
people by the occasional preaching of the Gospel. At short 
intervals a spirit of bitter persecution manifested itself, being 
occasionally checked by the interference of the Magistrates, and 
then again bursting out with increased violence. 

In the year 1811 a very gloomy account was given, in the 
Society's records, of the state and prospects of the Barbadoes 



288 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

Mission. Only thirty persons were reported as church mem- 
bers, eleven of whom were whites, thirteen were free persons of 
colour, and six were slaves. This period of the station's his- 
tory was indeed a "night of toil ;" but the devoted men who 
then laboured in the island, were sustained under their discou- 
ragements by the conscientious conviction that they were dis- 
charging a solemn duty, the result of which must be left to 
Him at whose command they had entered upon their work. 

Early in 1816 new difficulties were experienced. An insur- 
rection broke out among the Negroes on several plantations ; 
and although it was soon put down by military force, it afforded 
the enemies of the Gospel a pretext for renewing their hostility 
to the labours of the Missionaries. All the evils of the rebellion 
were charged on the Mission ; a charge which was perfectly 
preposterous, seeing that out of a population of upwards of 
seventy thousand slaves, not more than thirty- six were members 
of the Wesleyan Society. A committee was appointed by the 
House of Assembly to inquire into the matter. The mischief 
was ascribed in its report to other causes, and the Missionaries 
and their people were thereby cleared from blame. Notwith- 
standing this circumstance, the opposition was so strong, and 
the difficulties were so numerous, that the station was again 
left for some time without a supply of Missionaries. 

The Mission was recommenced in 1818, under circumstances 
which clearly mark the interposition of Divine Providence. One 
morning while the people were assembled in their five o'clock 
prayer-meeting, and Mr. Beck was beseeching the Lord to re- 
member them in mercy and send them a Pastor, a sailor entered 
the chapel, and announced the arrival of a Missionary ! This 
pleasing intelligence animated every heart with joy ; and before 
they separated, the Kev. Moses Eayner made his appearance 
among them. In the course of the following year, the spirit of 
persecution having in some degree abated, and the work having 
assumed a more encouraging aspect, a new and commodious 
chapel was erected, towards which several of the principal 
inhabitants subscribed liberally. 

It was now considered desirable once more to appoint a second 
Missionary to this station, that it might have a fair trial under 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAND OF BARBADOES. 289 

the improved tone of public feeling towards the enterprise. In 
1S20 the Rev. W. J. Shrewsbury and the Rev. W. Larcom were 
on the ground; and in a united communication addressed to the 
General Secretaries of the Missionary Committee, they wrote as 
follows : " Our prospects at present cannot be deemed flattering, 
but they are certainly brightening, as there is more likelihood of 
prosperity than was ever previously known in Barbadoes. On 
Sunday mornings our chapel is thronged, and multitudes crowd 
about the door, to squeeze in when there is the least opening. 
Besides our labours in Bridge Town, we have three estates in 
the country where we preach once a fortnight. The proprietors 
(one of whom is a Member of the House of Assembly) are firm 
friends to the Missionaries, and have promised to use all their 
influence with other gentlemen of the colony, to induce them to 
permit us to instruct their Negroes/ 1 Other accounts still more 
encouraging succeeded this, reporting the accession of a consider- 
able number of members to the Church, as well as the formation 
of an "Auxiliary Missionary Society " for the island, which 
was expected to produce not less than fifty pounds sterling per 
annum, to aid in the spread of the Gospel. 

This prosperous and promising state of things was, however, 
but of short duration. A fearful storm of persecution was 
gathering, and ere long it burst upon the head of the poor Mis- 
sionary with awful violence. Mr. Shrewsbury, who by this 
time had been left alone en the station, was abused by the 
public press, openly insulted in the streets, and repeatedly inter- 
rupted whilst engaged in conducting the public worship of God. 
On the 5th of October, 1822, the congregation was not only 
molested, but the chapel was assailed with showers of stones 
and other offensive weapons ; and so strong was public feeling 
in favour of the delinquents, that no hope of obtaining redress 
could be entertained. On the following Sabbath the assault 
was renewed with still greater violence ; and in the midst of the 
general tumult, the Missionary preached with enlargement of 
heart from 1 Cor. i. 22, 24, and thus closed his ministry in 
Barbadoes, as it proved to be his last opportunity of preaching 
to the people. On the 19th there was no service in the chapel, 
in consequence of the Governor's declared inability to protect 

u 



290 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

the persecuted Missionary in the discharge of his duty ; and a 
multitude of persons, previously organized for the purpose, were 
suffered completely to demolish the building, without the least 
attempt being made to check them, either by the civil or mili- 
tary authorities. 

During these disgraceful proceedings, Mr. Shrewsbury and 
his wife were exposed to the most imminent personal danger; 
but they providentially escaped on board a small vessel then in 
the harbour, and sailed for St. Vincent's. AYhen the mischief 
was done, the Governor of Barbadoes seemed to awake to a 
sense of his responsible position, 2nd issued a proclamation 
offering a reward of £100 for the conviction of the offenders. 
Such was the unparalleled effrontery of the rioters, that they im- 
mediately printed and circulated a counter proclamation, threat- 
ening that any person who came forward to impeach one of 
them should receive merited punishment ; stating that no con- 
viction could be obtained so long as the parties were true to 
themselves ; and declaring that the chapel was destroyed, not by 
the rabble of the community, but by gentlemen of the first 
respectability ! 

The alleged cause of the daring outrage, in which the spirit 
of persecution in Barbadoes finally culminated, was a certain 
letter, which the Missionary had written home to the Committee 
soon after his arrival in the island, setting forth the fearfully 
demoralized state of the colonists, and the need which existed 
of a faithful Gospel Ministry ; but the real cause was the despe- 
rate wickedness of the human heart, and the fact that the 
success of the Mission was likely to interfere with the worldly 
pleasures and sensual gratifications in which the people were so 
prone to indulge. 

After the departure of the Missionary the members of the 
Society continued to meet together in the dwelling-house of 
Mrs. Gill, a pious widow lady of colour, who still lives, — a 
"mother in Israel. 55 While assembled in their little meetings, 
they were often threatened with renewed acts of violence ; and 
Mrs. Gill was twice cited to appear before the Court of Grand 
Sessions, to answer for holding what were alleged to be illegal 
meetings in her house ; but the Lord delivered them from the 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAND OF BAHBADOES. 291 

wrath of their enemies, and these poor persecuted disciples of 
Jesus calmly awaited the return of brighter and more peaceful 
days. 

When the conduct of the colonists was brought before the 
British Parliament, it called forth a warm and indignant 
condemnation of the disgraceful outrage ; but nothing was 
effectually done, either for the future protection of the Mission- 
aries, or the conviction of the offenders. The latter, however, 
though they evaded the law of man, did not escape the justice 
of God ; for it is a. notorious fact that the men who took the 
most prominent part in the destruction of the Wesleyan 
chapel in Barbadoes, gradually withered under the blast of 
His displeasure. These opponents to the Gospel not only 
experienced remarkable reverses in their temporal affairs, but 
most of them were brought to a premature end, and died in 
the dark, under circumstances truly admonitory to the careless 
and the wicked. " Verily there is a God that judgeth in 
the earth" 

The friends of the Society in England having contributed 
liberally towards the rebuilding of the chapel, the re-establish- 
ment of the Mission was once more confided to the Kev. 
Moses Eayner. He arrived in Carlisle Bay in 1825 ; but, after 
a lengthened correspondence with the Governor, important 
considerations prevented his landing at that time, and he 
returned to St. Yincent's. In the course of the following year, 
however, when public excitement had in a measure subsided, 
Mi'. Eayner made another attempt to fulfil the important trust 
confided to him by the Missionary Committee in London. 
This time he succeeded. The chapel and Mission-House in 
James Street were rebuilt ; and as the Government authorities 
now seemed willing to extend the protection of the law to the 
despised followers of the Saviour, the public worship of God 
was again celebrated, under circumstances which afforded some 
hope of ultimate success. 

Few places made a more determined resistance to the Gospel 
at an early period of the Mission than Barbadoes, and few 
places have been more signally visited with the awful judgments 
of the Almighty. The persecution had scarcely subsided? 

u 2 



9.09 



PAKT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 



when, in 1831, the island was visited with a most terrific 
hurricane ; the effects of which were appalling to contemplate. 
In this fearful catastrophe, two thousand five hundred human 
beings miserably perished ; and property was destroyed, to the 
amount of two millions and a half sterling. This signal 
visitation seriously affected the progress of the Mission. The 
Mission-House and chapel at Providence were laid in 
rains; while several of the members of society sua 
loss of all things, and were unable, as formerly, to contribute 
to the support of the cause of God, which was still deal tc 
their hearts. 

On my arrival in Barbadoes, in 1835, the Mission was 
recovering from the effects of the storm which hi . desolated 
the island a few years before ; and the spirit of persecution 
which had prevailed so long, was considerably abated. The 
circumstances, :. under which I entered upon my new 

sphere of labour, as compared with those of my revered 
predecessors, were very auspicious. All was peace and harmony 
in the church itself, and there were no indications of opposition 
from without. The congregations in town were large and 
attentive, and the blessing of God appeared to accompany the 
labours of His servants. The number of persons united with 
us in church-fellowship a: that time thrta_h:v.t the i e 1 : : _ .1 w-.s 
five ' u ' <~ed ind ei yJity-seven. 

Being appointed to reside at Providence, a country station. 
I had ample opportunities of becoming more intimately ac- 
c tainted with the Negro character in the land of their exile, and 
:: )bserving the conduct of the people it; their transition from 
slavery tc freedom. I found the cause of religion very low :t 
many of the country places; but it please 1 the great Head of 
h to bless tlm means employed for the revival ■:: the 
the work of God, and we were permitted to see considerable- 
improvement. The congregations, both on the Sabbath and 
week-nights, began to assume a more encouraging aspect ; and 
several who had made a profession of religion were quickened 
in the service of the Lord: whilst a goodly number who had 
hitherto lived in ignorance and sin became savingly converted 
to Gem and united themselves in church-fellowshio with us,. 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAND OF BAEBADOES. 293 

We had an increase, during- the first year, of fifty church- 
members, and one hundred scholars. Nearly every night in 
the week I was employed in preaching on the surrounding 

estates ; and the people in general seemed willing to hear the 
Gospel. Bath, Woodlands, Pilgrim Place, and Sealeys, were 
regularly visited ; and, wishing to break up new ground, I soon 
obtained an entrance to promising places in St. George's and 
St. Philip's. — parishes which had not previously been favoured 
with the labours of a Missionary. 

During the time of slavery, but little could be done, in a 
systematic way, for the education of the rising generation. 
Sabbath schools were established in some places, but they 
frequently met with opposition ; and I have known a pious 
female severely persecuted for attempting to teach a few chil- 
dren the Lord's prayer. But as freedom was now dawning 
upon the country, we felt ourselves called upon to make 
renewed efforts to promote the religious instruction of all 
classes. On the 1st of August, IS 34-, all Xegro children, 
under seven years of age, were declared free by the Emancipa- 
tion Act. Over these, therefore, with the concurrence of the 
parents, we could claim entire control. "We immediately 
commenced teaching such of these as resided near our station, 
for a lew hours every day ; and we soon had a prosperous 
infant school. This Mrs. Aloister taught herself, till it became 
so large that assistance was absolutely necessary, when she 
secured the services of an intelligent young coloured person. 
It was a most interesting sight to look upon sixty or seventy 
little black children, nearly all' of the same age, learning to 
read the Scriptures ; and it was truly delightful to hear their 
infant voices lisping the praises of Jehovah. 

The adults also manifested an anxious desire to learn to read 
the word of God. My clear wife, therefore, commenced a night 
school for the instruction of young persons who were engaged 
in agricultural labours during the day ; and while I was 
engaged in preaching at remote places, she had the Mission- 
House frequently tilled with young people from the neighbour- 
ing estates. Their exercises were sometimes scarcely finished 
when I reached home; and as I approached the house, the 



294 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

sound of their voices, as they were plying their lessons, reciting: 
their catechisms, or singing the evening hymn, was as i 
music in my ears. These were happy days of humble toil; 
and I can truly say, {f How sweet their memory still ! M It is, 
moreover, a pleasing fact, that our labour was not in vain in 
the Lord. Some were induced to give their hearts to God in 
the morning of life, and to join themselves to His people; 
while several derived both secular and spiritual benefit from the 
instructions which they received. While labouring in another 
island, many years afterwards, a respectable-looking young man 
called at the Mission-House, and accosted Mrs. Moister in a 
pleasing and familiar manner. She said, " I have not the 
pleasure of knowing you/ 5 "Don't you know me, Ma'am? " 
said he : "I am little Tommy Sayer, whom you taught to read 
in the night school at Barbadoes." He had improved the 
little which he had learned, and was now become a merchant 
on a small scale, having opened a store on his own account. 

In the midst of the moral darkness in which the island of 
Barbadoes was so long involved, Divine Providence raised up a 
firm friend to the Mission cause in the person of William E- 
Esq., an intelligent and respectable planter, owning two large 
estates in the immediate vicinity of our residence. Having 
been made a personal partaker of the saving grace of G 
through the instrumentality of the Missionaries, he felt a deep 
interest in the spiritual welfare of his own people, and of those 
on the surrounding plantations. " Pilgrim Place," where he 
resided, was always a welcome and hospitable home for the 
Ministers of the Gospel, even in times of persecution ; and with 
a view to make permanent provision for the instruction o: the 
labouring population, he erected a neat little chapel and a 
Minister's residence, chiefly at his own expense, on a convenient 
piece of land, which he appropriated for the purpose. These 
buildings were duly conveyed to the Connexion, and they still 
stand as pleasing monuments of his Christian zeal and benevo- 
lence. Frequently have I seen the countenance of the good 
man lighted up with a radiant smile, as he sat in his family pew, 
when the chapel was filled with Negroes ; but if on any occa- 
sion the attendance was small, he appeared anxious and sorrowful. 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAND OF BARBADuES. 295 

Soon after our arrival in Barbadoes, our friend Mr. Eeece 
was removed from this world by a mysterious dispensation of 
Divine Providence. He went to England on a visit ; and dur- 
ing his absence, his letters to his family not only breathed the 
spirit of affection for which he was so remarkable, but they were 
richly stored with religious sentiment, and gave pleasing evi- 
dence of his advancement in the Divine life. On his return 
home, the vessel in which he sailed sprang a leak, and was 
obliged to put back to land. On embarking a second time, Mr. 
Eeece found himself unwell, having taken a severe cold. The 
sickness increased, and, after lingering for a few days, he died 
at sea, in full reliance on the mercy of God in Christ Jesus, in 
the month of November, 1835, attended by his favourite little 
black boy " James," who had accompanied him to Europe. 

When the vessel by which Mr. Eeece was expected arrived in 
Carlisle Bay, several of his friends hastened to town to receive 
him ; but Mrs. Eeece, being exceedingly anxious, requested me 
to drive over to the " Hope " estate, the residence of his 
brother, to meet him. I did so, but soon returned without 
him, and had to perform the melancholy. duty of divulging to 
his family the mournful tidings of his death. This was a severe 
stroke to his bereaved widow, his brother, and sisters, and to 
many dear friends to whom he was united by the strongest ties 
of affection. The scene which .followed may be more easily 
imagined than described. Nothing was to be heard but 
mourning, lamentation, and woe, especially among his own 
people, by whom he was much beloved. On the following Sab- 
bath I preached his funeral sermon to a crowded and deeply 
affected audience, who appeared in mourning, in token of respect 
for the deceased. When Mr. Eeece's will was opened, it was 
found that after making ample provision for his family, he had 
bequeathed to the Wesleyan Missionary Society, at the death of 
his widow, one half of the entire proceeds of his two estates, in 
perpetuity, as well as half an acre of land, and a small cottage, 
to each of the Negroes who had been his slaves, as he kindly 
said in the will, " in memory of their working clays together." 
I immediately forwarded to the Committee a copy of Mr. Eeece's 
will, with the Attorney-General's opinion as to its validity, not- 



of 



'2$ 'I fah: ::, — tei wist indies. 

withstanding some imhrmality iu the par: s : :1: _y e m ~: '. : y e .1 ; 
and the business was put in ■ satisfactory train for the future. 

Bu:i: ig hex lu:-:::::e. lbs. Reece was unTarying in her friend- 
si:;:?.:::! lo:::d:::ss :: the Missionaries aud their famhhs : but 
having been called away by death several years ago, the Society 
has had the full benefit :: Mr. Fleece's princely . e:p est, aud it 
has largely :::::::: nted :: the extension cud : :::solidaticu cf 
tiic -VL^s:::: wcaro turcugueut rue ismnu. 

Before the close of cur f.rst ye:: in Boreal :-s. w: :: e erlfe J 
to wit oess cue of those violent hurricanes for which this island 

■ 
rnier years. 

1 1 was :u the mm ruing :: the Sum :: 5 out ember that " e :bse: 
the wind Hew fresh fr:ru the easy, au.l the :l:u mm.-:... hi 
cense ruasses towards the north, with freaueut u::s:s. which lu- 
cre so 1 in iolence about ten o'clock, jl.m., and excited our 
apprehensions that a storm was gathering. In order to secure, 
if possible, the house aud the chapel, we made :hst t..: .doors 
and the windows, and used every other necessary precaution. 
H e now saw that a hurricane was regularly set in. The wind 
was furious beyond expression, 1 the rain fell in torrents. 
Through the gloom we saw in the liscauce several small houses 
blown down : and the poor people fed :: the IMissio u-hl: ase ::i 
shelter, too::: and dismay be hug seen :u :" :y :ouutenauoe. 
Providence Chape] and Mission-House being in an elevated 
situation, we began t: fear for tueir safety. Our alarm was 
soon increased, by observing the roof :: toe stable and other 
ont-bnildiugs completely lifted am a.- removed cut of their 
place., by the violence o: the win::, remembering that ag::d 
hoose was hilled ::: this station iu the hurricane :: 1 r d I. I suc- 
ceeded with some dimcvdty in liberatiuu one from the stable 
bete ne should be buried in the ruins. I had only just 
return el t: the house when the whole oo the kitchen roof end 
chine uy me carried apart of which fell with a to emeu- 

clous crash only :. few yards from the place where wo stood. 
"We now retreated into the hall or sttting-ro cm ; aud in a row 
minutes afterwards a part oo the roof over :ne c: the bedrooms 
was blown awav. whilst at the same tune the ceiliuu of the 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAND OF BARBADOES. 297 

room in which we were assembled was moving in such a manner, 
through the violence of the tempest, that we expected every mo- 
ment the remaining part of the house would be demolished ! 
Although the rain was falling in torrents, we saw that we must 
flee for our lives. We had already packed up in boxes and 
trunks such articles and papers as we thought might receive 
damage. We therefore left the house to its fate, and sought a 
partial shelter in a held of sugar-canes at a short distance. 

There were, besides Mrs. Moistei and myself, Miss Hovell, a 
young friend on a visit, and a number of people who had fled to 
us for refuge when their own houses were destroyed. In cross- 
ing over to the cane-piece it was with the greatest difficulty that 
we kept on our feet. We were obliged on one occasion to cling 
to some small trees, to prevent our being literally blown away. 
We had now to stand in a trench, ancle-deep in water and mud, 
saturated with rain and shivering with cold, patiently awaiting 
the result of this awful visitation. We were thankful to observe 
that the walls of our house and chapel still stood, although the 
shingles and boards were blowing about in every direction. 
About two o'clock p.m. the storm abated a little, and I ventured 
up to the house. I found the rooms, beds, furniture, and every 
thing completely drenched. As the wind was still high, I did 
not think it prudent to remain ; and having secured with diffi- 
culty a few loaves of bread, &c. s I returned and divided these 
among twenty people ; which proved very acceptable. As soon 
as the storm abated a little, we entered the house, and began to 
put things in order as well as we could. Throughout the whole 
of this trying season, I am thankful to say that our minds were 
kept in perfect peace, and we were enabled to put our trust in 
Him who doeth all things well. 

In a few days afterwards we had the roof of our house re- 
placed, and the necessary repairs completed ; and on looking 
round on the losses and sufferings of our neighbours, we saw 
abundant cause for gratitude to God for His preserving care and 
goodness. In the immediate vicinity of Providence the poor 
suffered much ; with few exceptions their houses were entirely 
destroyed. We opened the chapel as a place of shelter for the 
destitute ; and many persons slept in it till they could rebuild 



298 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

their houses ; and we did our best to supply their immediate 
necessities, and keep them from starvation. 

Other parts of the island suffered much from the destruction 
of property, but through mercy not many lives were lost on 
shore. At sea, however, and in Carlisle Bay, there was serious 
loss both of life and property. Several boats were upset and 
the crews drowned ; and a number of larger vessels were totally 
wrecked on the coast, whilst some which put to sea, hoping to 
weather out the storm, were never heard of again. 

On the following Sabbath I preached in Bridge Town, and 
endeavoured to improve the awful visitation, when a most 
affecting incident occurred, which is worthy of record. Before I 
went into the pulpit, Captain Weeks, of the brig " Hebe," 
handed to me a note, containing a request that public thanks 
might be returned to Almighty God, for His goodness in saving 
himself and his men from a watery grave, when the vessel was 
dismasted at sea during the hurricane. The interest of the ser- 
vice was enhanced by the presence of the sailors, as well as the 
Captain, who was a pious man. The congregation united most 
heartily in this act of thanksgiving, and nearly every eye was- 
suffused with tears, while we sang. 

" I '11 praise my Maker while I 've "breath," &c. 

The District Meeting of 1836 commenced in Bridge Town on 
the 30th of April ; and the reports from the respective stations 
were of a very cheering character. On the following day, however, 
a feeling of gloom was cast over the minds of the brethren by 
the death of the Eev. T. Crosthwaite, a devoted Missionary, who, 
after lingering for some time in pulmonary consumption, finished 
his course with joy. In the evening I preached at Bath from 
Numbers xxiii. 10 : " Let me die the death of the righteous, and 
let my last end be like his." This painful affliction was soon 
followed by the death of his little daughter ; and Mrs. Crosth- 
waite returned to England a lonely widow, leaving the remains 
of those most dear to her on earth, interred in James Street 
chapel yard. 

During the time that I laboured in Barbadoes, and more 
especially in subsequent years, the success of the Mission was- 
as remarkable as had been the barrenness of its aspect, and 



CHAP III. — THE ISLAND OF BAKBADOE3. 299 

the opposition which it encountered, at an earlier period. This 
will appear from the following brief notices of the principal 
stations occupied by the TYesleyan Missionary Society in various 
parts of the island. 

Bridge Town. — In this city we have two excellent chapels, 
and two commodious Ministers 5 residences, with a prosperous 
cause in all its departments. James Street new chapel is a 
spacious and elegant building, adapted to seat about one 
thousand persons. It reflects much credit upon the Eev. 
Henry Hurd, under whose superintendence it was erected a few 
years ago. Bethel chapel, in Bay Street, is a neat gothic 
structure ; and was built under the direction of the Eev. Wil- 
liam Tidier, in 1844 ; it will accommodate a congregation of 
about eight hundred. Both places of worship are well 
attended ; and for respectability, intelligence, and piety, the 
congregations would bear a comparison with those of more 
highly favoured countries. The Missionaries who reside in 
Bridge Town, have not only the pastoral care of the large 
societies in the city, but during the week they visit Dalkeith, 
near the garrison, Belmont, and Payne's Bay, where neat little 
chapels have been erected, and a good work commenced. 

Providence is situated in the parish of Christchurch, 
about eight miles from Bridge Town, on a commanding 
eminence, with a delightful prospect of both sea and land. 
A beautiful new chapel has recently been erected ; superseding 
the one built by the late Mr. Pieece, which has been converted 
into a school-room. The Minister's residence is also a com- 
modious and substantial building, and stands at a convenient 
distance from the chapel. The air is pure, and the situation 
remarkably healthy for a tropical climate ; and we found it 
altogether a delightful place of residence. Prom Providence 
the resident Minister extends his labours to various estates and 
villages in the neighbourhood during the week, with great 
advantage to the people. 

Ebenezer. — This is the name given to a station in the 
parish of St. Philip, in commemoration of the Divine goodness, 
by which the Gospel was first introduced into that once dark 
and benighted part of the island. In the month of July, 



SOO PAST II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

1835, Miss Jane Hinds, and Miss Frances Colemore, two f 
members of our church in Bridge Town, visited Crane, a 
celebrated watering-place, at the east end of the island, for the 

benefit of their health. During their stay, they embraced every 
opportunity of doing good to the people ; and when I paid them 
a visit, at their request, with the special object if mating 
known the good news of salvation, they collected their 
neighbours together to hear the word, and we had a delightful 
meeting. I expounded in a simple manner the conversation of 
Christ with Nicodemus about the new hirtJt. A gracious 
influence rested upon the congregation, many of whom i 
wards expressed their surprise, never having heard suck 
doctrine before. They moreover earnestly requested me to 
come again, and ted them more about these things. I did so; 
and the Holy Spirit applied the word to the hearts ■::' several, 
who were ultimately brought to a saving knowledge of the 
truth. An interesting class of abont twenty members was 
soon formed, which I met myself, after preaching, as I had no 
Leader as yet to take charge of it. Such was the commence- 
ment of a work of God which has perhaps never been sur- 
passed in the history of modern Missions. 

The number of church members continued to increase, and 
in subsequent years Class Leaders and Local Preachers were 
raised up ; a commodious chapel was erected, capable of seating 
about six hundred people, with a residence for the Minister 
at a convenient distance, Ebenezer having become the hei 1 of 
a Circuit. Ultimately the good work was extended to Supers, 
near Codrington College; to Shrewsbury, an out-station, so 
called in honour of the persecuted Missionary; to Duncan's, 
a promising new place: and to Parish Kid. in St. Joseph's, 
besides other places of minor importance.'" 

* The Rev. George Ranyelh who afterwards laboured successfully in this 
part of the Mission field, said, in a letter which I received from him, dated, 
Barbadoes, September 25th, 1848, "We are doing well in St. Philip's; 
where, I believe, you commenced the Mission a number of years ago. We 
have now a society there of eight hundred members ; and s: greatly has the 
work extended, that the places in that neighbourhood cronld make a delight- 
fid Circuit for two Missionaries. I frequently hear honourable mention 



CHAP. III. — THE ISLAND OF BAItBADOES. 301 

Speight's Town. — The Mission was commenced at this 
place by the Kev. James Aldis, in 1S35. The people had 
been previously favoured with the visits of the late Miss 
Christian Gill, through whose pious efforts the way was in a 
measure prepared for the establishment of a permanent station. 
A commodious chapel school has been erected, to accommodate 
about four hundred persons, in which Divine service is held on 
the Sabbath, and a good school taught during the week. The 
Minister resident at Speight's Town visits a number of out- 
stations in the neighbourhood, which, without his labours, 
would be spiritually destitute. 

Scotland. — That part of Barbadoes which bears this 
honoured name is a deep valley or glen, on a large scale, 
opening out to the sea, on the eastern side of the island; 
the sides of which are very precipitous, and the scenery 
somewhat bold and romantic. On a small estate called 
" Murphy's," belonging to Miss Hinds, preaching was 
commenced about the year 1834, Miss C. Gill having been 
made very useful here also ; and the Gospel has extended its 
influence among the people of the neighbourhood ever since. 
A chapel school has been erected here, to accommodate about 
one hundred and fifty persons, both for the purpose of Divine 
worship and tuition. The station is supplied chiefly by the 
Missionary residing at Speight's Town ; but occasionally by 
Local Preachers from Bridge Town and other places. 

As no island in the West Indies was more barren and dis- 
couraging to the Missionaries than Barbadoes at first, so none 
has of late years been more prosperous and cheering. Not- 
withstanding the temporary check given to the work of the 
Mission a few years ago, by the ravages of the Asiatic cholera,* 

made of your name, by some of our best Leaders and members, who were 
brought to God through your instrumentality, and who still remember you 
with sincere affection. In this I do rejoice, and I know you will rejoice 
with me. May these, with many others, be ' our joy, and the crown of our 
rejoicing, in the day of the Lord Jesus ! ' " 

* In the year 1854, the Asiatic cholera swept over the West Indies ; and 
no colony suffered more than Barbadoes. According to careful computation, 
the victims of this awful scourge were not fewer than twenty thousand. 
Among those who fell a sacrifice to their zeal and devotedncss in ministering 



302 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

and more recently by the long-continued and severe drought, 
and consequent poverty and depression of a large portion of 
the population, we have now connected with the Wesleyan 
Missionary Society in the island, two Circuits, fourteen chapels, 
five Missionaries, two thousand one hundred and eighty- seven 
church-members, nine hundred and eighty-one scholars, and eight 
thousand five hundred attendants on public worship. 

After labouring for about two years in Barbadoes, I was 
appointed to the island of St. Vincent; and we reluctantly 
took leave of a people who had become endeared to us by 
their kindness, and who will ever live in our affectionate 
remembrance. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 

View of the Windward Coast — Aboriginal Inhabitants — Settled by the French 
— Captured by the English — Carib War — Prosperity of the Colony — 
Aspect of the country — Souffriere Mountain — Botanical Garden — Mineral 
Springs — Towns andYillages — State of Religion and Morals — Wesleyan 
Missions — Dr. Coke's Visits — Persecution — Prosperity of the Work — 
Effects of Emancipation — Observations — First Shipwreck — Mission 
Stations — Kingstown — Calliaqua — Calder — Marriaqua — George Town 
— Union — Biabou— Chateaubellair — Barrowallie — Layou. 

On the afternoon of Tuesday the 10th of January, 1837, we 
took leave of our friends in Barbadoes, and embarked for our 
new station, having taken our passage by an American sloop 
called the "Dove." As the distance we had to sail was only 

to others, during this awful visitation, was the Rev. W. Bannister, the 
Superintendent of the Barbadoes Circuit, and the Chairman of the District. 
A more kind-hearted, generous, and faithful Missionary never entered the 
field than Mr. Bannister. He died happy in God, at Bridge Town, Barba- 
does, on Sunday the 9th of July, 1854, a few days after two of his beloved 
children had been carried off by the same disease. 



CHAP. IV. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 303 

about eighty miles with the trade wind in our favour, we had a 
fair prospect of reaching the place of our destination in a few 
hours. The weather was fine, but the motion of our small 
vessel was exceedingly disagreeable, and we spent a sleepless 
night from tossing on the mighty deep. Early the next morning 
I arose, went upon deck, and just as the sun was rising above 
the eastern horizon, I clearly beheld the island of St. Vincent 
as it loomed in the distance. The general outline of its appear- 
ance is bold and romantic ; presenting to the view in many 
places on the windward coast steep and rugged precipices, 
washed by the foaming billows of the Atlantic ; above which 
may be seen in the distance lofty mountains, covered to their 
summits with perpetual verdure. On sailing down the coast, 
within a few miles of the shore, the prospect is more varied, 
many fertile slopes and valleys opening to the view. As we ap- 
proached the land, we could clearly distinguish the buildings on 
the estates, as well as the cultivated grounds planted with 
sugar-cane, intersected with cocoa-nut and palmist trees, grace- 
fully waving in the wind. 

About ten o'clock a.m. we rounded Zion Point, and came to 
anchor in Kingstown Bay, with one of the most delightful 
prospects before us that ever I beheld. The view from the 
shipping in the harbour is one of combined beauty and gran- 
deur, and cannot fail to strike the beholder with admiration and 
delight. On the right hand may be seen Zion Hill, with its 
flagstaff and its signals floating in the breeze ; and on the left 
is Fort Charlotte, occupying an elevated rocky eminence, with 
its barracks, drawbridge, and frowning battery, whilst Kings- 
town lines the margin of the bay, having a smooth sandy beach 
in front, and towering mountains behind, completely clothed 
with the richest foliage. Altogether it presents the appearance 
of a natural amphitheatre on a grand and magnificent scale, the 
background mountain scenery of which is enlivened by the 
dwelling-houses, which present themselves at intervals em- 
bosomed among trees of the liveliest green and of singular 
beauty. 

On landing we received a hearty welcome from the Rev. E. 
Vigis, the resident Wesleyan Missionary of Kingstown ; and I 



PART II. — Till WXS1 ESDIE3. 

y in the evening to a devout and attentive congregation. 

On the following exceeded to our st a: Calliaqoa ; 

and the people among whom we v ted. to labour 

hailed our arrival with gratitude The following brief 

historical sketch :■: the :::.- v :rser.::l :: :h? r:-:.'"-r. :s 
preparatory tc iccount :: the rise, progress, and results :: 
missionary lal among : he people of this interesti ig colony. 

The island :: St. Vincent is situated in latitude IS LS 
north a and longitude 01 12 1 west, at an equal distance from 
Barbadoes ... id Grenada. It was liscov b hi 

the 23rd of January, 141 ; . the day dedicated tc St, Vincent in 
the Romish : for some cause unknown tc as i: ap- 

pearstc have been >r neglected by European adven- 

turers for manj years after several the >therWest India 
islands had 1 a colonized. Hence it becam lace of refuge 
for the native Indians rled from the presence of the cruel 

Spaniards. Per "his pi;rp:se i: was peculiarly a: v its 

ragged mountains, numerous rivers, and fertile valleys. The 
rah and majestic trees which were to be found in every direc- 
tion were suitable ::: native sanoes ; and the shores abounded 
with excellent fish, which, with other loci : cihci:-s. tended to 
attn :t a numerous native population. Ai an early period 
number of the inhabitants was increased by the arrival of a race 
of Africans, the origin :: which has never been ccnaectly aseer- 
tained. They were, probably, a : rcro of slave- \ a : ked on the 
coast, and receive by the natives as brethren. These strangers 
so far intermixed with "he real :.:. triremes, as t: chliterate in a 
measure their original national characteristics; but their de- 
scendants, nevertheless, formed a distinct tribe, called the black 
[ ribs; while the ethers were know- as the aec" Caries. These 
t tribes occupied separate tracts of 'land, and frequent. f waged 
war with :-;. :a : tner. 

In I Tic "he French c: hFartiuioue. avaahincc themselves :■: 
this dinerence. tinted en: an enne.h:i:n acrainst the 'island. a:> 
fessedly tc assist the red Caries, cut in reality tc take pessessien 

two trices united t: reive :z tne invaders, whom thev recrardei 



CHAP. IV. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 305 

as common enemies, and who were repulsed on this occasion 
with, considerable loss. Thus the native inhabitants were left in 
the possession of their island home a little longer. Several 
years afterwards, however, the French succeeded in forming a 
settlement, with the consent of the black Caribs, who were at 
that time the stronger party ; and the colonists were ultimately 
increased in number by arrivals both from Europe and the 
neighbouring islands . 

About twenty years after its commencement, when the colony 
numbered emht hundred whites and three thousand Negro 
slaves, it was captured by the British, and ultimately ceded to 
us in perpetuity, by the treaty of peace between England and 
Erance in 1763. Afier this change in the government, the 
settlement received a large accession of planters from Xorth 
America and the British islands of Barbadoes and Antigua, and 
prosperity and success were confidently anticipated. These 
were in a measure checked, however, by the rigour with which 
the English are said to have treated the French and the Caribs, 
requiring them to re-purchase the lands which they occupied, 
and thus causing many of the former to leave the island, whilst 
the latter manifested considerable dissatisfaction. 

In the year 1771, when cultivation was rapidly extending, 
the Brinsh attempted to take possession of certain lands beyond 
the river Tamboo, which had hitherto been claimed by the 
Caribs. They met with a most determined resistance, and thus 
commenced the first of a series of Carib wars, which were not 
only a great annoyance to the planters, but very serious in their 
consequences. It was not long, however, before the natives 
were in this instance subdued; and ''articles of peace" were 
signed by both parties, securing to the Caribs a large tract of 
the best land in the island in the district of Grand Sable, ever 
since known as the i: Carib Country." 

But these " articles " were wantonly violated by the faithless 
Indians, who, in 1779, aided the French in an attack upon the 
island, which was then in a very defenceless state, and of which 
they gained possession without the loss of a man. The colony, 
on this occasion, remained in the possession of the Erench for 
four years ; during which they treated the British residents with 

x 



306 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

great seventy. In 1783, in consequence of the definitive treaty 
between the Courts of London and Paris. St. Vincent's was again 
restored to the English, in whose possession it has ever since 
continued. 

The colony was just recovering from the effects of the in- 
vasion, when, in 1798, the Caribs again rose, and, in connexion 
with the French revolutionists from Martinique, made another 
attempt to take possession of the island ; having resolved to 
put all the English to death. This was the commencement of a 
war of the most serious character, as it was protracted for seve- 
ral months, and resulted in the loss of hundreds of valuable lives, 
and the destruction of a large amount of property. The united 
armies of the Trench and Caribs laid waste the whole country ; 
and such were their number and power, that they repeatedly 
possessed themselves of every important post in the island ; the 
English being confined to Kingstown, and completely hemmed in 
on every side. On the arrival of reinforcements, however, a 
vigorous effort was made, and the enemy was routed in every 
direction. Most of the Trench who survived were taken prison- 
ers of war : and as no more confidence could be placed in the 
faithless Caribs, a large number of them were removed, first to 
the island of Baliseau, and afterwards to Honduras Bay, where 
their descendants still exist as a distinct race of people. The 
few who remain in St. Vincent's, about four hundred in number, 
scarcely ever associate with the Negroes, and are remarkable only 
for their ignorance, indolence, and apathy, They are fond of fish- 
ing, and occupy lots of ground allowed them by the Government. 

On the restoration of peace the planters and merchants 
addressed themselves to their respective callings with diligence 
and vigour, and the colony was soon favoured with a cheering 
measure of agricultural and commercial prosperity. Extensive 
tracts of land were brought under profitable cultivation, substan- 
tial buildings were erected on the respective estates, and an ex- 
tensive traffic was carried on with England and other countries. 
In the mean time the population was rapidly increasing, by the 
arrival of additional settlers from the mother country, and the 
introduction of numerous cargoes of Negro slaves from the 
coast of Africa. 



CHAP. IT. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 307 

The topographical aspect of the interior of the island bears a 
striking resemblance to that of the coast, to which reference 
has been already made, It is generally rugged and moun- 
tainous, with here and there a fertile valley ; and the scenery is 
generally of a bold and romantic character. The cultivation is 
chiefly confined to a narrow belt of land, varying from one to 
two miles broad, and extending along the margin of the sea, 
nearly round the island ; while the mountains in the centre are 
left to their native wilciness. The whole country is watered by 
numerous rivers, which not only tend to fertilize the beautiful 
valleys through which they flow, but are also made available for 
the water mills employed in the manufacture of sugar, rum, and 
arrow-root, now the staple articles of export. The roads are 
narrow and hilly, and are therefore not well adapted for wheel 
vehicles. Of late years they have been kept in tolerable 
repair; so that travelling on horseback is not by any means 
-difficult. 

Like most of the other TVest India islands, St. Vincent's is 
evidently of volcanic origin ; and one of the most striking ob- 
jects in its general outline is the Soiiffriere Mountain, the most 
northern of a lofty chain, which rises to an elevation of about 
three thousand feet above the level of the sea. It is chiefly re- 
markable for the eruption which occurred in the year 1S12. 
Previous to this period, the crater was situated a short distance 
from the summit of the mountain, nearly half a mile in diameter, 
and about six hundred feet deep. At the bottom of this 
immense basin stood a conical rocky hill, about two hundred 
feet in height, with a considerable body of water around its base. 
These solitary wilds had witnessed no convulsion for about one 
hundred years, when, on Monday, the 1 7th of April, about 
noon, the inhabitants residing in the neighbourhood were 
alarmed by a peculiar tremulous motion of the earth, and a 
rumbling noise in the air. Soon afterwards, a column of black 
smoke was seen issuing from the crater, and the heavens were 
literally darkened by the dense clouds which intercepted the 
rays of the sun; while a perpetual shower of calcined earth fell 
on all below. This pulverized substance covered the decks of 
■vessels at sea, and was carried by an upward current of wind 

x 2 



3 OS PAUT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

as far as Barbadoes.* On Tuesday, the awful scene continued ; 
the shower of dust and small cinders increased, and covered the 
earth, insomuch that not a blade of grass, or even a leaf of vege- 
tation, was to be seen for many miles. On Thursday, the 30th, 
the awful catastrophe came to a crisis. On that day the whole 
island was agitated by several violent shocks of earthquake, 
following each other in rapid succession. The rumbling- noise 
increased ; and the dreadful explosion which ensued has been 
compared to the simultaneous discharge of all the artillery in 
the world. In the mean time the shower of ashes abated, and 
the most eccentric and vivid flashes of lightning played around 
the summit of the mountain ; whilst immense streams of liquid 
fire were poured forth, as from a boiling cauldron, and worked 
their way to the sea in various directions. The Caribs of 
Morne Eonde, as well as the Negroes and other inhabitants in 
the vicinity of the mountain, were seized with consternation, 
and fled from their dwellings in dismay. On the following day 
the stream of burning lava ceased to flow ; and the threatened 
visitation passed over. Through the good providence of God, 
not many lives were lost ; but considerable damage was done to 

* The thundering noise of the eruption was distinctly heard in the 
neighbouring colonies ; hut in Barhadoes the effects were most severely 
felt, although at a distance of eighty miles to windward. Considerahle 
damage was done to the cultivation by the ashes, which descended in showers 
on every part of the country ; and the volcanic matter formed a cloud so 
dense as to intercept the rays of the sun. The inhabitants, being totally 
ignorant of the cause of this phenomenon, were struck with terror and 
amazement. Some thought the world w r as coming to an end, and betook 
themselves to prayer and supplication, which they had previously neglected. 
The places of worship were thrown open, and people were seen plodding 
their way to the chapel by the light of a lantern, at noon-day ; such was 
the darkness and gloom in which the island w r as enveloped, and so great 
was the excitement that prevailed among the people. After continuing for 
several hours, the shower of ashes abated, the cloud passed over, and the 
sun once more burst forth in all its glory; cheering the hearts of the peo- 
ple, but discovering the earth to be every where covered with a thick layer 
of eruptive matter. About twenty years afterwards, when digging in my 
garden at Providence, I found a quantity of this Souffriere dust; and it had 
then the appearance of rotten-stone, the particles having become consoli- 
dated. 



CHAP. IV. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 309 

the cultivation, arid it was a long time before the windward dis- 
trict recovered its wonted verdure. 

In the year 1844, I visited the Souffriere Mountain, in com- 
pany with the Eev. J. Blackwell ; and again, in 1847, with the 
Eev. W. Eitchie. On both occasions I was much interested in 
contemplating the wonderful works of God, as there displayed. 
The ascent is steep and ragged ; and it requires four hours con- 
stant exertion to reach the summit, which is said to be six 
miles above " Lot Fourteen," the highest estate on the wind- 
ward side of the island. The ic dry river " and the " rocky ravine " 
show the principal track of the lava, on the occasion of the 
eruption ; and the frequent appearance of trees turned into 
charcoal, and of clay converted into brick, still exhibit the sad 
effects of that catastrophe. Since the eruption, there are two 
craters ; — the old and the new. The old crater is now a vast 
deep lake, the surface of the water being several hundred feet 
below the brink. The conical hill which once occupied the 
centre, has almost disappeared beneath the deep blue water. 
The new crater bears all the marks of a recent eruption ; the 
sides being in many places destitute of vegetation, and having 
only a little muddy water at one corner of the bottom. On my 
last visit, I succeeded with some difficulty in descending to the 
bottom of the new crater. The view from thence is awfully 
grand ; and I shall not soon forget tlie feelings with which I 
there contemplated the effects of the eruption of 1812 : I could 
say with the Psalmist, " Come, behold the works of the Lord ; 
what desolation He hath made in the earth ! " 

This island once possessed a public establishment of great 
repute, called the " Botanical Garden," situated about a mile 
from Kingstown. It consisted of thirty acres of land, tastefully 
laid out, and furnished with rare and valuable plants ; some of 
which were natural to the island, and others exotics, collected 
from the East Indies, and from South America. Here the nut- 
meg, clove, and cinnamon trees flourished, as well as the useful 
bread-fruit plant, brought from the South Sea Islands by Cap- 
tain Biigh, in 1793. For some time the Government took a 
lively interest in this establishment ; but of late years it has 
been allowed to go to ruin. Several of the plants have been 



310 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

removed to Trinidad, the rest have been neglected ; and the 
once famous botanical garden is now nothing more than a wild 
forest of rare and beautiful trees. There are to be found, how- 
ever, in various parts of the island, in private gardens, numerous 
specimens of the exotics of the East. The nutmegs, cloves, and 
cinnamon, which grow in the Mission garden at Calliaqua, are 
equal to any imported from India ; and the bread-fruit tree 
flourishes on almost eveiy estate, and produces an article of 
food, now generally used by all classes of the inhabitants. 

The only other natural curiosities of any note, are two 
mineral springs, called " Belleair Spa," and " Mariaqua Spa." 
The first is three miles from Kingstown, and the latter about 
twelve. The water of these wells has never been properly 
analysed; but the first appears to partake chiefly of saline* 
and the other of chalybeate, properties. They are both 
esteemed for their refreshing and medicinal virtues. Belleair 
Spa is easy of access, being approached by a tolerable road; 
but that of Mariaqua is more difficult, being situated in the 
interior of the island, remote from the public highway, and at 
a considerable distance from any plantation or settlement. 

In the animal kingdom, this island affords a considerable num- 
ber of species ; a careful examination of which would no doubt 
amply repay the labours of the naturalist. The woods abound 
with beautiful birds, as well as with little quadrupeds, in great 
variety, especially the guana, matt, the manacoo, and snakes 
of various kinds. The manacoo is a destructive little animal, 
about the size of a cat, and is constantly watching for an 
opportunity to attack the hen-roosts. He is not satisfied with 
carrying one off at once, and feasting upon it, but kills all he 
can catch before he begins to remove his prey to the nearest 
forest. We have sometimes lost several fowls in one night 
from the attacks of this wily little creature. 

The towns and villages of St. Yincent's are not remarkable. 
Kingstown, the capital, lies in the bottom of a splendid 
amphitheatre of mountains, and is strongly fortified. The 
town consists chiefly of two streets, which run parallel with 
each other ; some of the houses being built of stone, and 
others of wood. The Court-house and Wesleyan chapel are 



CHAP. IV. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 311 

substantial and elegant buildings. The English church is also 
a solid structure ; but it is not distinguished for its architectural 
beauty, although it is said to have cost £42,000. The other 
places of worship, a Scotch church, and a Roman Catholic 
chapel, are plain birldings. Tiie Government house, about a 
mile from the town, is a neat edifice, and stands in a beautiful 
situation, with a commanding view of the harbour. The 
population of Kingstown may be estimated at about six thou- 
sand. New Edinburgh is a beautiful suburban village, on the 
road to Fort Charlotte, and contains a number of good houses, 
occupied chiefly by the merchants and Government officers. 
Calliaqua and George Town, to the windward ; and Layou, 
Barowalie, and Chateaubellair, to the leeward of the capital, 
are considerable villages., and centres of large populations. 
Other villages of minor consequence have sprung up in various 
directions, since emancipation. Indeed, almost every planta- 
tion has its Negro village, with a population of two or three 
hundred. 

The island is about twenty-five miles long, and fifteen 
broad, and contains a population of twenty-nine thou- 
sand. The principal portion of the people are of African 
descent. There are, however, a few Europeans: English, 
Scotch, French, and Portuguese. No people could be more 
demoralized than were the inhabitants of St. Vincent's, both 
bond and free, towards the close of the eighteenth century; 
when they first attracted the attention of the friends of Missions 
in this country. Their condition was, if possible, rendered still 
worse by the frequent importation of cargoes of Negro slaves, 
direct from Africa, who brought with them all their heathenish 
superstitious practices. Honourable marriage was scarcely 
known ; and Sunday was the common market-day for all 
classes, — the only day, in fact, which was allowed to the poor 
slaves for their own use. Thus, immortality was practised by 
persons of every grade in society, without restraint ; and the 
entire colony was almost destitute even of the forms of religion. 
The island had been divided into five parishes, it is true, but 
there was not a church in any one of them. The only sanctuary 
which had ever been erected for the worship of God, was 



312 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

destroyed by a hurricane in 1780. There was but on 

man for the whole colony ; and he officiated in the court- 
house in Kingstown to a few whites ; the poor Negn - -cing 
totally unprovided for. 

Such was the spiritual destitution of this interesting island, 

when, on Tuesday, the 9th of Janua: 1787, a scl: 
entered Kingstown Bay, the arrival of which was sstin 
the order of Divine Providence, to cor:/. moral revolu- 

tion, such as has scarcely been exceeded since th : the 

Apostles. The vessel was from Antigua, and shortly after she 
came to anchor, there was seen landing from her a gentleman 
of small stature, clerical appearance, and bland open counte- 
nance, accompanied by three other persons, alsc sti _ 
These were the venerable Dr. Coke, and the L : Messrs i tc r, 
Clarke, and Hammett, his Missionary companions, who had 
come to proclaim the glad tidings of salvation to all who 
w T ere willing to hear. Divine Providence again opened the 
way before the messengers of His mercy. itro- 

duced to a Mr. Claxton, who had heard the Gospel in Antigua, 
and in whose house the zealous Doctor preached the same 
evening to an attentive congregation. 

The kind reception with which the Missionar:— met was 
regarded as a token for good; and the next day they procei Ic :". 
into the country, on a visit to a Mr. Ciapham, and to wait on 
another gentleman, to whom they had letters of introduction. 
They held an interesting religious service, in the large parlour 
of Mr. Ciapham ; and then proceeded on their journey, much 
encouraged by the favourable prospects which were opening up 
before them. Wherever they went they were received with 
that kindness and hospitality for which the West India pbnfcos 
have always been so remarkable, when favourably imprf^i 1 
with the character and object of their visitors. When Mr. 
Clarke was introduced as the Missionary appointed to labour 
in the island, the planters generally expressed their readines- :: 
admit him to their respective plantations, for the purpose of 
instructing their slaves. On the return of the Missionaries :: 
Kingstown, after an absence of two or three days, they found 
that Mr. Claxton had actually engaged a large warehouse, 



CHAP. IV. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 313 

which he had fitted up as a chapel ; and had provided suitable 
accommodation for Mr. Clarke, the Minister who was to remain 
on the station. Thus promising* was the commencement of the 
"Wesleyan Mission in the island of St. Vincent. 

Having so far accomplished the object of their visit, Dr. 
€oke, Mr. Baxter, and Mr. Hammett proceeded to Dominica. 
In the course of the following year, however, so rapidly had 
the work of God extended in the island, that Mr. Clarke was 
unable to meet the demands which were made upon him for 
his services, and Mr. Baxter therefore returned to his assistance. 
The united labours of these men of God were greatly blessed, 
both in attracting numbers to hear the Gospel, and in the 
conversion of many souls to a saving knowledge of the truth. 

Although the I\i:ssionaries directed their chief attention to 
the Xegro slaves, they were not unmindful of the warlike 
Caribs, who then occupied the windward part of the island. 
A distinct Mission was commenced for their benefit ; buildings 
were erected, and a schoolmaster and his wife were sent from 
England ; and Mr. and Mrs. Baxter resided in the Carib 
country for nearly two years, doing ail that Christian zeal and 
kindness could do for tke conversion of the natives. It is 
painful to record that all this was, to a considerable extent. 
labour in vain, little or no impression being made upon the 
minds of this barbarous and degraded people. Before the last 
Carib war the Missionaries retired from that part of the country, 
<igain to labour among; the slave population. 

In the month of December, I7SS, Dr. Coke again visited St. 
Tincent's, and brought with him the Be v. B. Gamble to assist 
Mr. Clarke ; whilst Mr. Baxter was engaged in his attempt to 
evangelize the Caribs. The pious Doctor was delighted with 
the progress of the work among the Negroes ; but deeply 
pained at the unwillingness of the aborigines to receive the 
Gospel. 

Nothing particular occurred during the following year; but, 
towards the close of 1790, Dr. Coke once more lauded in 
Kingstown, in company with the Bev. Mr. Werrill, from Ire- 
land. It was evening, and they proceeded at once to the chapel, 
which they found rilled with attentive worshippers. By this 



314 PAUT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

time the original place of worship had become too small, and 
the Missionaries had engaged a large room, formerly occupied 
by the Roman Catholics. Here the Doctor preached with 
much enlargement of heart ; and then proceeded on his tour 
among the islands, leaving the Missionaries to proceed in their 
delightful work of preaching to the poor slaves ; several 
hundreds of whom had now been brought to a knowledge of 
the truth, and united in church fellowship. 

Hitherto nothing had occurred to retard the progress of the 
work of God, on this prosperous and promising station; but 
it was now to undergo a severe trial. The planters seem all 
at once to have discovered the fact, that the free promulgation 
of the Gospel among the Negroes might ultimately interfere 
with the existing system of slavery ; and a plan of persecution 
was organized, which has scarcely been paralleled in the history 
of Missions. Effectually to put a stop to the preaching of the* 
Missionaries, a law was passed, forbidding any une to preach 
without a licence ; and, to prevent unnecessary applications, it 
was distinctly stated, that no person should be eligible for a 
licence who had not previously resided in the island twelve 
months. The authorities knew that this would effectually 
militate against the itinerant system of the YTesleyan Connexion. 
This malicious and persecuting law was strengthened and 
guarded by penal sanctions of the most stringent character. 
The progress of its operative penalties consisted of three stages, 
commencing with oppression, and ending in blood. For the 
first offence, the punishment was to be a fine of ten Johannes, 
(eighteen pounds,) or imprisonment for not more than ninety 
days, or less than thirty ; for the second offence, such corpoeal 
punishment as the court should think proper to inflict, and 
BANISHMENT from the colony ; and lastly, if the offender 
dared to return from his banishment, and preach without 
authority, in violation of this law, he was to be punished with 
DEATH ! 

We can readily imagine the passing of such a law in the 
days of Nero, Caligula, or Domitian ; but it is scarcely credible 
that such a law should have been enacted in a Protestant 
country at the close of the eighteenth century. It is neverthe- 



CHAP. IV. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 315 

less a fact, and I have seen the original statute, as it stands on 
the official records of the island. 

After the passing of this cruel enactment, how did the 
Missionaries proceed ? Just as the Apostles proceeded under 
similar circumstances. They said, i: Shall we obey God or 
man?" and on the following Sabbath the Rev. Matthew 
Lumb preached in the Wesleyan chapel as usual, for which 
alleged breach of the law he was forthwith dragged to prison. 
Hundreds of people followed him with tears and lamentations ; 
and the popular excitement was such that the Government 
authorities called out the military to guard the jail, and prevent 
the prisoner from being liberated by the populace. While the 
soldiers stood by the entrance to the prison, there came a 
poor old blind woman, inquiring for " dear Massa Minister." 
The soldiers said to each other, " Let the poor old blind 
woman pass ; what harm can she do ? " Thus she was 
allowed to enter the gate. On reaching the prison, she groped 
along the wall, till she found the iron-grated window of the 
Missionary's cell, and putting her face to it she exclaimed, 
" Dear Massa Minister, God bless you ! Keep heart, Massa I 
So dem put good people in prison long time ago. Xeber mind 
Massa ; all we go pray for you." The persecuted Missionary 
afterwards declared that these words of the poor old blind 
woman were as balm to his wounded soul; and he resolved 
to cast himself afresh on the promises of Jehovah. 

When the tumult had somewhat subsided, and the soldiers 
had returned to the barracks, several of the people who 
lingered about were permitted to approach the prison window ; 
when the persecuted Missionary presented himself, and actually 
repeated the crime for which he was committed, by speaking 
of Christ and His salvation. Among the crowd there stood a 
woman, named Mary Richardson, who thus heard the Gospel 
for the first time. The word came with power to her heart. 
She went home, and wept and prayed, and sought the Lord, 
till she found Him, to the joy of her soul. Many years 
afterwards, whilst I was labouring in St. Vincent's, this good 
woman sickened and died ; and in her last moments she thanked 
God that ever she heard the Missionary preach through the 



316 PABT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

iron grating- of the prison window ; " for that," said she, c: was 
the word which came to my heart.' 5 

On the 26th of January, 1793, Dr. Coke arrived in St. 
Vincent's, from St. Kitt's, having heard of the imprisonment cf 
Mr. Lurnb. He proceeded at once to the jail, and found his 
friend confined with a common malefactor. He afforded him 
all the consolation in his power ; and after some time the 
Missionary was released from his confinement ; but he was 
required to quit the island, without being permitted to preach 
again to his dear people. Such was the rigour with which this 
cruel law was enforced. 

On his return to England in the month of August, Dr. Coke 
hastened to lay before the Imperial Government the proceedings 
of the House of Assembly in St. Vincent's. He obtained an 
interview with the Eight Honourable Henry Dundas, Seeretary 
of State for the Colonies, and received from his Lordship the 
welcome assurance, that " His Majesty in Council had been yra- 
ciously pleased to disannul the Act of the Assembly of St. Vincent, 
which banished the Missionaries from the Island: and that His 
Majesty's pleasure would h* notified to the Governor by the first 
packet that sailed for the West Indies" 

Thus was the door of usefulness once more opened to the 
Missionaries in this interesting colony, and the Eev. Messrs. 
Owen and Alexander were appointed to labour there. On their 
arrival they found, as might have been expected, that the people 
were in many places scattered; but in some instances the members 
had kept up their private meetings for religious exercises during 
the time that they had been deprived of a Gospel ministry. The 
re-establishment of the Mission was hailed with joy by the com- 
munity generally, and the Missionaries soon witnessed a cheering 
measure of prosperity, the number of church members reported 
in the year 1800 being two thousand. 

In succeeding years the Missionaries continued to labour with 
great success, and prosperous societies were established in 
various parts of the island. Almost every village had its little 
sanctuary, and on scores of estates the word of God was faith- 
fully preached at every available opportunity. But the difficulties 
of slavery were still painfully felt, and the faith and patience of 



CHAP. IV.-— THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 317 

the Missionaries and their people were frequently put to the 
severest test. Although treated with more humanity here 
than in some other colonies, the slaves were still liable 
to severe floggings ; and they could not go from the property 
on which they resided, not even to chapel, without a written 
pass, which was frequently withheld for the most trifling 
cause, to the great injury of our religions meetings. There 
was also still in existence, till a late period, the abominable 
Sunday market, with all its attendant evils. 

We therefore rejoiced exceedingly when the united voice of 
the British nation demanded the freedom of the poor slave, and 
when the glorious object was accomplished, at such a noble 
sacrifice as twenty millions sterling. In no island had the Gospel 
done more to prepare the people for the boon of freedom than in 
St. Vincent. Hence, when the eventful period approached, there 
was no commotion or tumult, as had been predicted by some, 
but all was peace and harmony. On the night preceding the 
glorious first of August, which was to bring the dawn of free- 
dom, the chapels were opened for the celebration of watch-night 
services. The hour of midnight found thousands of poor 
Xegroes upon their bended knees before God to receive the 
boon of freedom as from heaven : and when the clock struck 
twelve, which was the death-knell of slavery throughout the 
British empire, having previously waited for a few moments in 
silent prayer and praise, they then rose to their feet, and sang 
with one heart and one voice, "Praise God, from whom all 
blessings flow," Sec. Then might have been seen husbands em- 
bracing their wives, and parents caressing their children, and 
friend congratulating friend, that they had been spared to see 
the glorious hour of freedom come. 

It was during the transition from slavery to freedom, that I 
entered upon my first appointment as a Missionary in this 
interesting island ; and I shall never forget the effect which this 
welcome change in the civil condition of the people seemed to 
have upon their minds. They appeared generally to be impressed 
with one idea, — namely, this : " We are now free, we must there- 
fore all begin to serve the Lord." Every hindrance being now re- 
moved, they came flocking to the house of God by scores and 



31S PART II. — THE WEST EETDIES. 

hundreds, not merely as occasional worshippers, but professedly 
to join themselves unto the Lord in a perpetual covenant, never 
to be forgotten. Divine unction attended the preaching of the 

word, and we had reason to believe that a genuine work of 
grace was in progress among the people. During the first year 
after emancipation, we received into church fellowship with us, 
in various parts of the island, upwards of one thousand new 
members. I do not mean to say that all these were savingly 
converted to God, but I trust that many were so. and none 
were admitted who did not give satisfactory evidence that they 
had a " sincere desire to flee from the wrath to come." There 
was also a desire for schools which could scarcely be met ; and 
it required our utmost efforts to provide for the rapid extension 
of the work, as well as the greatest prudence in the administra- 
tion of discipline. The religious services were generally both 
long and arduous, and I have sometimes been engaged for five 
hours, without coming outside the communion rail, in reading, 
preaching, praying, baptizing, administering the Lord's Supper, 
and other religious services ; for in connexion with some- of our 
chapels we had upwards of one thousand communicants. 

The beneficial effects of freedom were also seen in the increased 
temporal comforts of the people. They cheerfully worked for 
wages, and were soon possessed of the means to procure the ne- 
cessaries and comforts of civilized life. In many instances they 
purchased lots of land, and built neat little cottages thereon; 
and free villages rapidly sprang up in various directions. 
Friendly Societies were also formed in connexion with every 
station for the relief of the sick and aged, as the people were 
now entirely dependent on their own resources in seasons of 
affliction, no provision having been made by the Act of Emanci- 
pation for the support of the aged and decrepit. All these 
arrangements devolved much labour, as well as care and anxiety, 
on the Missionary ; for the people looked up to us for counsel 
and direction in every thing. We had to act not only as their 
Pastors, but frequently as their physicians, lawyers, architects, 
and Magistrates ; and it is a pleasing fact that the Lawyers and 
Magistrates were very seldom appealed to by the TVesleyan por- 
tion of the community, although they numbered, according to 



CHAP. IV. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 319 

the census, 14,1G0, out of a population of 29,000. But al- 
though our labours were arduous, we had an ample reward in 
the gratitude and devoted attachment of an affectionate people. 
When riding along the road, the Missionary w r ould sometimes be 
•saluted by nearly a hundred voices at once, exclaiming, " How 
•d'ye, Massa? how Missie and pickaninnies?" This friendly 
salutation came from a gang of labourers at work in the field, 
nearly hidden by the sugar-canes which they were weeding. Thus 
they would inquire after their Minister, his wife, and his children 
at one breath ; and the Missionary responding kindly, hears the 
same number of voices cry, " Tank you, Massa ; God bless you, 
Massa ;" and he pursues his journey, if he reminded them of 
the meeting at night and invited them to attend, they would 
probably reply, " Yes, Massa, we all go come ; we love we 
chapel." 

I may here observe that our people in St. Vincent's w r ere re- 
markable for their regular attendance on the means of .grace. 
In former years, when the word of God was scarce, the poor 
slaves have been known to walk fifteen or twenty miles to hear 
the Gospel. They used to leave their homes on Saturday even- 
ing, after they had finished their work, and walk all night, to 
attend the chapel at Kingstown on the Sabbath ; and then walk 
all night back again, so as to reach home in time for work on 
the Monday morning. They are now happily furnished with 
places of worship at a convenient distance from their dwellings : 
these are generally filled w T ith attentive hearers. Besides the 
regular chapels at the respective stations, on almost every estate 
there is a " Trayers-hou&e" This is a large hut fitted up as a 
temporary place of worship. Here we preach when we visit the 
plantations on week-nights, and here the people frequently 
assemble at five o'clock in the morning, to hold their prayer- 
meeting before they go to work. Among so many thousands 
•of professing Christians, who had but recently emerged from the 
influence of slavery, we had, of course, frequent calls for the 
exercise of church discipline ; but still, among our own people, 
there was a spirit of genuine piety which was truly gratifying to 
witness. 

Our people were also remarkable for their Christian benevo- 



320 PART IT. TIIE WEST INDIES. 

lence, according to their means. In proof of this, many 
pleasing instances might be given, both of individual sacrifice, 
and of united efforts in the cause of God. But the circum- 
scribed limits of these memorials will only admit of the 
following : — At an early period of the Mission, the Gospel came 

with power to the heart of Miss J) , a respectable female 

of colour, who resided in Kingstown. At the time of her 
conversion she had one slave named Betty, who had faithfully 
served her for many years, and who had also been made a 

partaker of the saving grace of God. Miss D resolved 

to give old Betty her freedom ; and when the manumission 
papers were made out, she generously presented them to her 
faithful slave, together with a bonus of three doubloons, about 
ten guineas. This manifold act of kindness affected old Betty 
very much, and she burst into tears, exclaiming, " my dear 
Missie, me tank you too much ; me tank you for free, me tank 
you for doubloon. But, Missie, what me go do wid all dis 
money ? Me neber hab so much money in all me life ! " 
" Do what you please with it, 55 said her noble-minded mistress : 
'•' it is a small acknowledgment of your faithful services. 55 
" Then," said poor Betty, "if Misses say me may do what 
me please wid de money, dis is what me please to do wid it ; 
me want to take to dear Massa Minister, and ask him to send 
it to de great Society in England, to help to send de Gospel to 
Africa, dat all me country people may be made happy same 
way me. 55 " Very well, 55 said her mistress. She actually 
brought the money to the Missionary, and it was appropriated 
according to her desire. Like the poor widow in the Gospel, 
she gave all she had, even all her living. 

/For many years past the St. Vincent' s Mission has been 
entirely self-supporting ; and in addition to the effort required 
for their efficient sustentation, and for the erection of chapels 
and schools, our people have come forward nobly in aid of the 
Mission fund, from year to year. In connexion with every 
station, we have a " Branch Missionary Society." Missionary 
Meetings are regularly held, collectors employed, and the usual 
machinery set in motion, the same as in England. The 
Missionary Meetings in Yorkshire and Cornwall are not more 



CHAP. IT. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 321 

enthusiastic in their character, than are those held among the 
sable sons of Ham, in the West Indies. The financial results 
may be seen on a reference to the published Reports of the 
Society. I need only add that, during the last year I spent 
in St. Vincent's, the subscriptions received by the collectors, 
and the money raised at the anniversary meetings, throughout 
the island, amounted to the noble sum of £620. 7*. 9^ 7 . The 
cash was immediately remitted to the Treasurers of the Parent 
Society in England, to be united with the offerings of 
British Christians, for the purpose of sending the Gospel to 
benighted heathen nations. This was in addition to their 
ordinary contributions for the support of the work among 
themselves, including marriage and baptismal offerings to the 
amount of £60 in one year, in the Biabou Circuit alone, for the 
support of the day schools. 

The people are, moreover, very susceptible of excitement, 
especially when a little humour is employed. Returning to 
St. Vincent's on one occasion, after an absence of several years, 
I attended a Missionary Meeting at Union. I was struck 
with the great change which had taken place in the condition 
of the people in the interim, and adverted to the subject in my 
address, nearly as follows : " I am glad to see you, my friends, 
looking so comfortable and happy. What a wonderful change 
has taken place in your circumstances since I first came to 
preach to you ! Then you met together under an old thatched 
shed, and were exposed to the bleak wind and pelting rain ; 
now you have a beautiful chapel : then you were poor slaves ; 
now you are all free : then you were but imperfectly clothed 
with very homeJy garments ; now you all appear in the house 
of God, dressed like gentleman and ladies : then many of you 
were in darkness and sin ; now you walk in the light of life. 
Tour children are, moreover, learning to read the Bible : and I 
see them with their hymn-books in their hands to-day. Now 
what has made this wonderful change ? Is it not the Gospel ? " 
" Yes, Massa ! " from a hundred voices. " And the Gospel is able 
to do the same for all the world ; and it is your duty to send 
it to the ends of the earth. c Freely ye'have received, freely give/ 
As I came to chapel to-day, I saw several young men riding 

Y 



322 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

their own horses, although they were once poor slaves. Now, 
it appears to me that those who ride their own horses, should 
give at least five dollars a year to the Missionary Society, in 
token of their gratitude to God for His goodness." I had 
scarcely uttered the words, when a smart young black man 
marched up the aisle, whip in hand, and threw down his five 
dollars on the table. " I keep ray horse, Sir : there are my five 
dollars." Then came another, and another: while others 
promised to bring their contributions on the following day. 
I continued : " That is the way to do, my friends : c Honour the 
Lord with your substance, and with the first-fruits of all your 
increase.' But it is not only the gentlemen who have been 
benefitted by the Gospel ; the ladies also have been elevated by 
its influence. I see you all to-day neatly dressed, and some 
carrying their parasols. Now, it appears to me, that every 
parasol lady ought to give at least a dollar a year, to assist in 
sending the Gospel to the heathen." That playful remark also 
had its designed effect, and we had a good collection ; and the re- 
sult of our missionary effort at that little place was £25. 16s. $d. 

I laboured in the island of St. Yincent four years, at two 
different periods, which afforded me the opportunity of viewing 
the work under different aspects. This portion of our mission- 
ary career was marked by many rich spiritual blessings, and a 
large measure of prosperity and happiness in our work. TVe 
also had our trials, privations, and sufferings, in common with 
other faithful servants of the Lord Jesus. 

On leaving St. Vincent's the first time, the vessel in which we 
sailed was wrecked, in working out of the harbour; a circum- 
stance concerning which a few passing remarks may be made, 
illustrative of the discomforts of missionary life in former times, 
before steamers were plying among the islands. It was on 
Tuesday, the 30th of January, 183 S, that I embarked on board 
the schooner (i Haidee," at Calliaqua, in company with my 
dear wife, and the Eev. Messrs Cullingford. Crane, Marsden, 
and Blackwell. TVe were bound for Trinidad, to which island 
I was appointed, and where our annual Pistrict Meeting was 
to be held. We weighed anchor, never more comfortable in 
our arrangements, or more happy in prospect of the future; 



CHAP. IV. THE ISLAND OP ST. VINCENT. 323 

but we had not proceeded many hundred yards, and had 
scarcely rounded the point, when the vessel struck upon a coral 
reef, and in one short hour was completely dashed to pieces, 
and our luggage scattered in every direction. As the wreck 
occurred in the day-time, and within sight of the shipping in 
the harbour, assistance was promptly rendered, and no lives 
were lost, for which we felt truly thankful. 

My dear wife, being the only female on board, was the first 
lifted into a boat which came to our rescue, and the brethren 
followed. Being able to swim, I did not feel anxious about 
myself, and therefore remained on the wreck till all the rest 
were safe. Last of all I jumped into a boat where my friend 
Captain Eadfcrd had kindly taken charge of Mrs. Moister, who, 
I was thankful to find, was wonderfully sustained in the hour of 
peril. The boat in which we sat moved off, and we were taken 
by the Captain on board his ship "Jane and Barbara." With 
peculiar feelings we w r atched until sunset the efforts made by 
the boatmen to save our luggage and other property ; some of 
which was carried on board the ships in the harbour, and some 
on shore. Most of our boxes and trunks were saved from the 
wreck, although pilfering had taken place, amidst the confusions 
to a considerable extent. Every thing we had was more or less 
damaged, being saturated with salt water, as it was taken out 
of the sinking vessel ; and we were left without a single article 
of dry linen, or change of raiment, but truly thankful for life. 

On the morning of the following day we engaged another 
vessel, collected our damaged luggage, and in the afternoon 
embarked once more, trusting in that God who had hitherto 
been our preserver in the hour of danger. During the next 
night, whilst sailing along to the leeward of a number of little 
rocky islets, we were exposed to still more imminent danger, 
through the carelessness of the Captain and sailors, who were 
chiefly Spaniards, and most of them intoxicated. AVe were 
within a few yards of the breakers when I made the discovery, 
and insisted on the vessel being kept off, and, by the providence 
of God, just escaped a second wreck, and ultimately reached 
the place of our destination in safety. 

On my second appointment to St. Vincent's, I was hsppy to 
Y 2 



324 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

find that great improvement had taken place in every depart- 
ment of the work, through the instrumentality of my dear 
brethren who had occupied the Mission in the interim. The 
following brief notices of the respective stations comprised in 
the three Circuits into which the island is now divided, may be 
interesting to the Christian reader. 

Kingstown is not only the capital of the colony, but the head 
of the central Circuit. Here we have a commodious and ele- 
gant chapel, the front of- which is built of polished stone, and 
the other parts of hewn stone and brick. It is an ornament to 
the town, as well as a noble monument of the liberality and zeal 
of our people. It was erected in 1840 at a cost of about £7,000, 
under the superintendence of the Eev. John Cullingford ; and, 
being furnished with galleries, will seat nearly two thousand 
persons. It is generally well attended by a respectable and in- 
telligent congregation, chiefly of black and coloured persons. 
It is a delightful sight to behold this spacious edifice crowded 
with attentive hearers of the word of God ; and while minister- 
ino* to them I have often wished that the friends of Missions in 
England could witness their devotions. In connexion with this- 
station, we have also a good day school for the training of the 
rising generation. In former times the Kingstown Society was 
rich in holy zealous members, who were fellow-helpers to the 
Missionaries in the good work. One may still hear honourable 
mention made of the character and labours of Ann Claxton, the- 
sister of Mrs. Lillywhite, both the daughters of Mr. Claxton, 
who first welcomed Dr. Coke to the island ; also of Margaret 
OTlaherty, Harriet Gardner, and others, who have long since- 
been called to their reward. 

Calliaqtja is a considerable village three miles from Kings- 
town, on the road to the windward part of the island. Dr. Coke 
preached here on the occasion of one of his visits ; and the- 
cause of God took deep root in this neighbDurhood at an early 
period. On being appointed to this station in 1837, the 
attendance at the chapel became so large that it was necessary 
to enlarge the building by an addition of twenty feet to its length.* 

* Missionaries have frequently to act as architects and superintendents of 
works, such as the erection and enlargement of chapels, in addition to their pas- 



CHAP. IV. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 325 

Thirty-four pews were put up in the new part, which were im- 
mediately let ; and the proceeds of the chapel were increased by 
JB30 per annum, although the enlargement and improvements 
only cost £250. Such was the rapidity with which the congre- 
gation increased afterwards, that it became necessary to make a 
second enlargement. This was judiciously effected under the 
^direction of my esteemed successor, the Rev. John Lee. Several 
feet were added to the width of the building, so that it is now 
a spacious place of worship, and will seat nearly a thousand 
people. It is generally well attended, and there is an excellent 
day school, taught by an intelligent native teacher. 

Caldeh was the original name of an important station about 
four miles from Calliaqua, and seven from Kingstown. Its 
name is derived from the estate in connexion with which the 
•first chapel was built, and an excellent day school estab- 
lished, several years ago. The chapel was a spacious frame 
building, calculated to accommodate about eight hundred people ; 
and being central to a populous district, it was generally well 
attended. I have a very pleasant recollection of many happy 
•seasons in Divine worship, Christian fellowship, and social in- 
tercourse with Christian friends at this station. The interests 
of true religion and the progress of the Temperance movement 
were greatly aided and promoted at this place by the Hon. Hay 
M'Dowal Grant, who was for many years the respected Attorney 
of the " Trust Estates," of which Calder was one. This Chris- 
tian gentleman was always ready to stand by the Missionaries, 
and to take a part with them in their efforts to promote the real 
welfare of the people. In eases of necessity he has frequently 
himself addressed our congregations on the vital truths of the 

toral duties. la this instance, a piece of engineering was performed which 
-excited great interest at the time. Having cut through the plate and sill of 
the building, we drew the end to its appointed place by means of a couple 
of ropes, without taking it down ; and the pieces of framework which formed 
the enlargement, having been previously prepared, were fixed in their places 
the same day; and thus a considerable saving of both time and expense was 
effected. Notwithstanding the fears of the people, the plan succeeded admi- 
rably; and so great was their astonishment when they saw part of the chapel 
moving silently along, that they exclaimed one to another, " Massa Minister 
.know ebery ting, for true." 



326 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

Gospel, which lie so well understands. John Parsons, Esq., a 

pious planter, is also a zealous Local Preacher in connexion with 
our church at this place. I always found his heart and his 
house open to entertain, in the most hospitable manner, the ser- 
vants of the Lord. Circumstances having- rendered it necessary 
to erect a new chapel for the accommodation of our Calder con- 
gregation, on an eminence near the coast, with a new name, Ave 
shall henceforth hear of this station as Mount Coke, so called 
in honour of the revered founder of our West India Missions. 
The new chapel was dedicated on the 6th of May, IS 64, in con- 
nexion with the celebration of the Jubilee of the Missionary 
Society ; and the Lieutenant Governor of the island and several 
members of the Legislature attended the opening services. 

Marriaqua is an interesting out station, in the midst of a 
dense population, in a beautiful and picturesque valley of that 
name. A neat little chapel was erected here during my second 
residence in the island in 1 S44 ; it has generally been filled with 
an attentive congregation. We have no resident Minister at 
this place, but an excellent day school is in active operation. 

George Towx is a considerable village at the foot of the 
Souffriere mountain, on the windward side of the island. It is 
situated in the district known as the " Carib Country," an exten- 
sive and fertile tract, and the only piece of level land in the colony. 
Our station was originally at Mount Young, where the people 
worshipped in a miserable thatched shed, which they called a 
chapel, near the tunnel. In 183 7 this wretched place was de- 
molished by a gale of wind, and we removed our establishment 
to George Town, where we have now a good substantial stone 
chapel, furnished with galleries, and capable of accommodating 
nearly a thousand people. The lot of land was procured, and 
the foundation of the chapel laid, by the late Eev. J. Culling- 
ford ; and the building was raised under the direction of his 
successor, the late Ptev. W. Bannister. By recent arrangement, 
George Town is not only the place of residence for a Minister, 
but the head of the Windward Circuit. 

L NTON is situated in a narrow valley about three miles from 
Biabou, and has been an interesting station for many years. 
Divine worship was formerly conducted under a thatched shed, . 



CHAP. IV. — THE ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 32 7 

which stood by the side of the river, and nearly surrounded by 
the stream. We have now a commodious and substantial chapel, 
which will accommodate about six hundred persons. As it oc- 
cupies nearly the same sice as the old shed, the situation is not 
the most desirable ; but no better place could be obtained at the 
time. It was erected in 1840, under the superintendence of the 
Rev. W. Bannister, and is well attended by the labouring popu- 
lation of the surrounding estates. We have no resident Minister 
on this station ; but we succeeded in establishing a day school 
soon after the erection of the chapel, notwithstanding some op- 
position with which we had at first to contend from the 
remaining prejudices against education. 

Biabol" was formerly the head of the Windward Circuit, and 
as such for many years appeared on the list of principal stations ; 
but it has recently been placed in a secondary position, to meet 
the arrangements required by change of circumstances. The 
Mission-House and chapel occupy an elevated and romantic situ- 
ation on a bold promontory facing the sea. The prospect in 
even* direction is of a charming character. At a considerable 
distance in the vast expansive ocean, may be seen several of the 
Grenadines, with their chalky cliffs glittering in the sun ; while 
on the coast of St. Vincent a line of milk-white foam is con- 
stantly seen on either hand, as the mighty waves perpetually 
break on the rocky strand; beyond which appear, in striking 
contrast, numerous buildings, extensive fields of sugar-cane, 
tropical trees, and towering mountains, with the narrow road 
winding along a most precipitous course. There is a small bay 
at Biabou, where vessels anchor to land stores and take in pro- 
duce ; but it is very dangerous, and during our residence there 
we frequently saw boats upset and vessels dashed to pieces on 
the rocks near our dwelling. This station stands quite isolated ; 
but although unconnected with any village, it is situated in the 
neighbourhood of several large estates, and the public services 
are well attended. The chapel is a strong frame building, and 
will seat about four hundred persons. A day school is taught 
here also, which has been made a blessing to the neighbourhood. 

Chateaebeeeaie. is now the head of the Leeward Circuit. 
It stands at the foot of the Souffriere mountain, on the leeward 



328 PART II. THE WEST INDIES. 

side cf the island, and is central to a. large population. The 
chapel has been enlarged and improved, and will now accommo- 
date a congregation of about eight hundred persons. The 
Mission-House also is a commodious residence, having been 
recently renovated and put in good repair, and a day school is 
in active operation. The resident Minister visits Hope Mount 
and other places, travelling frequently by water in a small boat 
or canoe, exposed to considerable danger ; but hitherto the Lord 
has graciously preserved His servants. 

Barrowallie is an ancient village also on the leeward coast, 
central to a number of large sugar estates, and about ten miles 
from Kingstown. It is favoured with a resident Minister, a 
good chapel which will seat about five hundred persons, and a 
prosperous day school, notwithstanding the difficulties with 
which it has had to contend. 

Layotj is a neat little village at the foot of a fertile valley, in 
which are situated several large estates, about four miles from the 
capital. No station in the island has a more interesting mis- 
sionary history than this ; but want of space forbids our entering 
into particulars. Preaching was first commenced in the house 
of Harriet Gardner, — a "mother in Israel," who was a faithful 
helper of the Missionaries in their good work. The hurricane 
of 1831 deprived her of all her property; but she was faithful 
unto death. During the cholera of 1854 nearly every Leader 
died ; but their places have been supplied by others, and the work 
.still goes on. A substantial chapel was erected here in 1839 by 
the late Eev. John Blackwell, and a day school has for some time 
been in active operation. 

The island of St. Vincent is thus nearly encircled with a 
chain of Mission Stations, and although, in common with other 
West India Missions, the cause has suffered much from the 
ravages of cholera, continued and excessive drought, and High- 
Church influence, we still number, three Circuits, six Mission- 
aries, eleven chapels, fifty-two otl^r preaching places, three 
thousand church members, nine hundred scholars, and ten thou- 
sand attendants on public worship. 



CHAPTER V. 

TEE ISLAND OF GEEXADA. 

The Grenadines — Appearance of Grenada — Settled by the French — War ot 
Extermination — Captured by the English — Towns and Villages — 
Aspect of the Country — Population — Religion and Morals — Wesleyan 
Missions — Dr. Coke's Visits — Progress of the Work — Missionary Tour 
round the Island — Education — Native Agency — Christian Liberality — 
Mission Stations — St. George's — Woburn — Constantine — La Baye — 
Carriacou. 
I 

In sailing from St. Vincent's to Grenada, the course lies 
directly to leeward of a number of romantic little islands called 
'the Grenadines ; the principal of which are Bequia, Baliseau, 
Mostique, Conouan, Union, Carriacau, and Isle de Eonde. 
These are inhabited by planters, small farmers, fishermen, and 
labourers, who number upwards of eight thousand ; and 
would afford a useful sphere of labour for a Missionary, could 
one be appointed to itinerate among them. We have a few 
-church members resident in some of them, who have been occa- 
sionally visited by a Minister; but the state of the Society's 
funds have not hitherto warranted the commencement of a new 
Mission in that portion of the great field. The Grenadines be- 
long in part to the government of St. Vincent's, and in part to 
that of Grenada; and are duly represented in their respective 
'Houses of Assembly. When sailing along in fine weather in 
sight of these lovely little green spots, surrounded by the deep 
blue sea, the prospect presented to the view is one of exquisite 
beauty, and would afford an appropriate subject for the pencil 
of the artist, or the song of the poet. 

On making the island of Grenada, the aspect of the western 
coast is somewhat barren and dreary, the shore being of a rocky 
and rugged character, and the highlands covered with trees and 
'brushwood of stunted growth. When the vessel proceeds a 



330 PAST II. — THE WEST INI. 

little farther, however, the prospect improves ; the lovely and 
fertile valley of Duquesne opens to the view ; the neat little vil- 
lages of Sauteurs, Grand-Pova, and Gouyave are seen ; and 
numerous estates, with highly cultivated lands. I nded 

before the eye of the voyager. On rounding a projecting 
of land, the harbour and town of rge suddenly burst 

upon the view ; and whether you come to anchor in the bay, or 
go round to the Carnage, the prospect is one of peculiar be 
The town is built on rising ground, and is seen by the stranger 
to great advantage. It forms a grand amphi: not of 

mountains merely, but of streets, and mansions, and gardens, 
interspersed with cocoa-nut and other tropical ti richest 

green. In the distance, towering above the whole, seen 

Richmond Hill, with its fortifications and barracks, on the one 
hand, and Hospital Hill, with its ruined battery, on the other, 
The town is divided into two compartments by an ek 
ridge, which terminates with Fort George, on a narrow promon- 
tory facing the sea; and altogether the view from TP m o 
in the harbour is of a charming character. 

I had previously visited the island at differ ei when on 

Wednesday, the 1 0th of March, 1S41, I arrived in the colony, 
to take up my residence among the people, having been ap- 
pointed to the station by the preceding Conference. We were 
kindly received by the Rev. John Wood, my worthy predeci 
and his excellent wife, who were about to proceed to England; 
and we entered upon our labours with a pleasing prospect of 
success. Before I proceed to relate the parti sonnected 

with the rise and progress of our Mission, and of my persona] 
labours while resident in the island, I take the liberty of present- 
ing to the reader a brief historical and descriptive sketch of this 
lovely country. 

The island of Grenada is situated in latitude 12° 30' north, 
and longitude 62° 20' west. It is the most southerly \: the 
Antilles, or the last of the range of islands generally denominated 
the Caribbees, and lies only eighty miles distant from Trini 
and the Spanish Main. It was discovered by Columbus during 
his third voyage in 1493, and was found to be inhabited by a 
warlike race of Caribs, whom the Spaniards left in quiet posses* 



CHAP. V. — THE ISLAND OF GRENADA. 331 

sion of their country, without attempting to form any settlement 
among- them. 

In the year 1650, the restless and ambitious Du Parquet, 
Governor of Martinique, fitted out an expedition against the island, 
consisting of about two hundred adventurers, whom he caused 
to receive the Holy Sacrament before they embarked on their 
enterprise of cruelty and blood. On the arrival of the French. 
in Grenada they erected a gross, and again performed some 
superstitious ceremony, as if to sanctify the work of destruction 
on which they were bent. To their surprise, however, the in- 
vaders were received by the poor natives with a degree of 
civility which caused them to alter their plan of proceeding; and 
they entered into negotiations for the purchase of the country, 
instead of taking it by force. According to their own historian, 
Du Tertre, " They gave some knives, hatchets, and a large 
quantity of glass beads, besides two bottles of brandy for the 
Chief himself; and thus the island was fairly ceded by the natives 
themselves, to the French nation in lawful purchase." 

The Caribs, however, appear to have looked upon the 
hatchets, knives, beads, and brandy, as a mere present ; for 
they absolutely refused to surrender their country to the 
strangers. This refusal gave occasion to one of the most cruel 
wars of extermination which stains the pages of the early history 
of colonization. The natives were massacred by scores and 
hundreds ; and although they offered a most vigorous resistance, 
they were overpowered by the destructive influence of powder 
and ball, and their enemies prevailed. In one of their raids the 
French found eighty Caribs, who had taken refuge on a high 
promontory overhanging the ocean. They were immediately 
put to the sword, when one half of them were cruelly murdered, 
and the rest threw themselves headlong down the precipice and 
perished in the sea. On another occasion, a beautiful Carib girl 
was taken captive, and became an object of dispute between two 
officers, when a third officer came up, and deliberately shot her 
through the head, to put an end to the affair ! 

Having entirely destroyed the aboriginal inhabitants, the 
French quarrelled among themselves, and a civil war ensued, in 
which many lives were lost. When peace was in some measure 



332 PAKT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

restored, a Governor was sent out from France ; but lie acted 
with such despotic authority that he was impeached, tried, con- 
demned, and executed by a party of colonists so completely 
illiterate that only one person was found among them who 
could write his own name. Fifty years after the arrival of the 
French, the colony consisted only of fifty-one whites and fifty-three 
free blacks and persons of colour, and five hundred and twenty- 
five Negro slaves; while the cultivation was limited to two 
plantations of sugar, and fifty-two of indigo, with a few acres 
of provision grounds. 

Hitherto the colony of Grenada had been held as private pro- 
perty by Count de Cerillac ; but in 1714 it was made over to 
the French- African West India Company, to whom it continued 
to belong till that body was dissolved, when it became the pro- 
perty of the crown. Under these new arrangements a consider- 
able degree of prosperity was realized. 3n 1762, however, the 
island was captured by the English; and by a treaty of peace in 
the following year, Grenada and its dependencies were ceded in 
perpetuity to the British crown. In the course of the next war, 
however, in 1779, the French once more became masters of the 
island; and it remained in their possession till 1783, when it 
was finally restored to us by an article in the treaty for general 
peace between Great Britain, France, Spain, and America. 

A few years after the colony came into the possession of the 
British it was visited by an awful pestilence, a plague of ants, a 
destructive hurricane, a civil war, and a famine, in rapid succes- 
sion, which greatly retarded its prosperity, and which deserve a 
passing notice. The pestilence was in the form of epidemic 
yellow fever, and hurried several thousands out of time into 
eternity. This had scarcely subsided when there came the plague 
of ants. These destructive little creatures appeared in countless 
numbers, and laid waste every sugar plantation within a radius 
of twenty miles, and threatened ultimately to overrun the whole 
island. Every attempt made by the planters to put a stop to 
their ravages proved ineffectual ; and such was the general con- 
sternation, that a reward of twenty thousand pounds was offered 
by the Government to the individual who should discover an 
effectual remedy for the evil. So liberal an offer induced many 



CHAP. V. — THE ISLAND OF GRENADA. 333 

to try their utmost to destroy the ants, and although all suc- 
ceeded partially, yet none gained the prize ; since the destruction 
of a few myriads availed little, their places being immediately 
supplied by others. Eanges of burning charcoal proved very 
destructive, as the invaders blindly pressed forward in their 
march, and were roasted to death : but their numbers were so 
vast that they soon extinguished the fire, and the rear of the 
swarms passed scatheless over the obstruction. The roads were- 
literally covered with them for miles together, so that the print 
of the horse's foot, in passing through them, was covered in an 
instant by the surrounding multitudes. 

The inhabitants were ultimately relieved from this scourge 
by the next visitation, which was that of an appalling hurricane. 
Many houses were laid in ruins, and plantations uprooted by 
the violence of the tempest ; but at the same time the ants'" 
nests were exposed to the deluge of rain which followed, and 
the swarms perished; so that the island was relieved from the 
plague of the sugar ant. 

Instead of gratitude to God for this deliverance there arose 
among the French residents a spirit of anarchy ; and the country 
was embroiled in a civil war, the particulars of which are 
scarcely worthy of detail. These painful circumstances, together 
with the famine that followed, caused a considerable decrease in 
the population ; and it was not until the commencement of the 
present century that the island began to recover, in its agricul- 
tural and commercial interests, from the various calamities 
which it had been called to experience. 

There is nothing very remarkable in character of the towns 
and villages of Grenada. St. George's is the capital of the 
colony, the appearance of which, from the shipping in the 
harbour, has already been described. It is a neat and respect- 
able town, with a population of about five thousand. "When 
first erected, the. houses were built chiefly of wood : but a 
destructive fire, in 17 71.. reduced them to a heap of ruins. 
After this they were re-built more generally of stone and brick, 
and several of them are now of a substantial character. The 
places of worship, the Court-house, and the Government-house 
especially, are superior buildings. A new market-house has 



334 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

been erected on one side of a spacious square, surrounded by 
beautiful shady trees, which is an ornament to the place., as well 
as a convenience to the inhabitants. The streets are steep and 
hilly; and walking is very fatiguing to the stranger, till he 
becomes accustomed to the place. The town is favoured with 
splendid harbours. In the bay, the anchorage is good ; but in 
the careenage, which is shut in by projecting points of land, 
vessels are secure in every storm. Gouyave, Grand Pova, 
Sauteurs, and Grenville are villages in different parts of the 
island, on convenient bays, where the produce is shipped. 
where stores are opened to supply the surrou:. ::ntry 

with merchandise. 

The topographical aspect of the country varies considerably. 
In some parts of the island the scenery is bold and romantic, 
like that of St. Vincent : and in others the land is level or 
undulating, resembling Barbadoes. The soil is generally good; 
and appears well adapted for sugar, coffee, cocoa, aud cotton, 
as well as for ground provisions, which are produced in great 
abundance. On the top of one of the highest mom:: 
called the Grand Etang, there is a beautiful lake, of considerable 
dimensions. The basin which lorms the bed of the lake has 
every appearance of a crater, and was probably once a volcano. 
The water is good; and although ir has no apparent outlet,, ir 
is doubtless the real source of most of the beautiful rivers that 
water this lovely island, as they generally take their rise 
a number of small streamlets which issue from the sides of the 
mountain. Xo fishes are known to live in this lake, though 
they have been placed there repeatedly ; but the rivers and sea- 
coast abound with fish of the most excellent quality. 

The island of Grenada is about twenty-three miles long, and 
fifteen broad ; and the entire population of the colony and its 
dependencies may be estimated at thirty-three thousand. A 
arge number of the inhabitants are of African descent. Tne 
Europeans are chiefly from England and Scotland. A ievr 
years ago a number of emigrants were brought from "Malta to 
cultivate the ground ; but they did not answer the purpose for 
which they were intended, being better adapted for the occupa- 
tions of shopkeepers, hucksters, and they now 



CHAP. Y. — THE ISLAND OF GRENADA. ood 

chiefly follow. It is now generally admitted that Africans, or 
the descendants of Africans, are best adapted to endure the 
fatigue of field-labour under the scorching rays of a tropical 
sun. To the honour of Grenada it may be recorded, that 
during the times of slavery the poor Negroes were treated with 
more humanity in this colony than in most of the other West 
India Islands. Neither were the free blacks and persons of 
colour oppressed, and kept down in this place, to the same 
extent as in some other countries. The consequences of these 
advantages are seen in the development of intellect, and in the 
high and respectable position which many gentlemen of dark 
complexion have been enabled to take, with credit to themselves, 
■and with advantage to society, since the glorious era of emanci- 
pation. 

Although the sable sons of Ham were treated with less 
rigour here than in many other places, in former years, 
it must be acknowledged that there was scarcely any 
regard paid to their spiritual interests. On being finally 
secured to the British Crown, the island was divided into five 
parishes; but it was a long time before they were provided 
with Ministers. And even then, the Europeans, who were the 
parties generally contemplated in these ecclesiastical arrange- 
ments, were frequently left for long intervals without the means 
of religious instruction, whilst the poor slaves were left alto- 
gether out of the question. It was the moral and spiritual 
destitution of this island, in common with that of the West 
Indies generally, which led the apostolic Dr. Coke to pay it a 
missionary visit, towards the close of the last century. 

The venerable Doctor landed in St. George's, on Sunday, the 
28th of November, 1790, accompanied by Mr. Baxter, a Mis- 
sionary frcm St. Vincent's. They first waited on a Mr. Lynch, 
with whom they had some acquaintance; and then proceeded 
to the parish church, where they found the pious Eector, the 
Rev. Mr. Dent, preaching with energy and pathos to an atten- 
tive congregation.* After the service, the Missionaries waited 

* This zealous and devoted Minister of the Church of England mani- 
fested a spirit of kindness and liberality to the Wtslevan Missionaries 
worthy of special notice. Being deeply conscious of the spiritual destitu- 



336 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

on the Clergyman in the vestry, and were received with every 
mark of Christian kindness. In the evening Dr. Coke preached 
in a large room to a crowded audience ; and notwithstanding an 
attempt which was made by one or two wicked young men to 
create a disturbance, they appeared deeply interested in the 
discourse. At the close of the service a pious young man of 
colour, named Painter, who had heard the Gospel in Antigua, 
was introduced to the Missionaries ; and the pleasing discovery 
was made that several persons with serious impressions were 
already united in a kind of religious society, under the direction 
of this young disciple. These inquirers pleaded earnestly for 
the appointment of a Missionary ; and in this request they were 
joined by persons of almost every grade in the community. On 
the following morning, at six o'clock, Mr. Baxter preached to 
a good congregation, at the close of which the Doctor gave an 
exhortation, promising, if possible, to send them a teacher. 
The Missionaries then took their leave of St. George's, and 
commenced their journey over the Grand Etang, on a visit to 
John Eae, Esq., who resided on the windward side of the 
island. * They were much delighted with the mountain scenery 
of the interior, as well as with the kindness and hospitality of 
the planters by whom they were entertained. The next day 
they crossed over to Gouyave, and embarked for Antigua, greatly 
encouraged by the promising openings which presented them- 
selves for the wider diffusion of the Gospel in Grenada. 

In the year 1791 the island was visited by the Rev. Mr. 

tion of the colony, and of the utter inability of his own Church to make 
adequate provision to meet the case, he hailed the arrival of Dr. Coke and 
his associates with feelings of joy, and afforded them every assistance in his 
power. He also afterwards corresponded freely with the Doctor on all 
matters pertaining to the welfare of the Mission ; and when the island was 
occasionally left without a Missionary, in consequence of sickness or death, 
he did his utmost to keep the people together till one should arrive. He 
remained a firm friend to "\Yesleyan Methodism, even in the midst of perse- 
cution, till the day of his death, which occurred after he had returned to 
England in 1804. Mr. Hallett, the Parish Clerk, was also a zealous 
labourer in the Lord's vineyard. He was called of God to ascend from 
the desk to the pulpit, and after labouring for several years sa a Wesleyan 
Minister, he finished his course with joy. 



CHAP. V. THE ISLAND OF GRENADA. 33 7 

Owen, a Wesleyan Missionary from St. Yin cent's ; and such was 
the esteem in which he was held by General Matthews, the 
Governor, during- the brief period of his sojourn, that be offered 
him the living of Carriacou, with a handsome salary, on the 
condition that he would relinquish his present vocation, and 
submit to episcopal ordination. This offer the humble Mis- 
sionary courteously declined, preferring to dwell among his own 
people. On the 7th of January, 1793, Dr. Coke returned to 
Grenada, accompanied by the Eev. A. Bishop, a Missionary 
who was selected for this particular field of labour in conse- 
quence of his knowledge of the French language, which was 
then in common use among a certain class of the colonists. 
After spending about a week in the island in various useful 
labours, the zealous Doctor took his departure, leaving the new 
Missionary to prosecute his evangelical work. 

The efforts of Mr. Bishop to evangelize the people were 
attended with considerable good among the English ; but not 
among the Drench, as was at first expected. This man of God 
was much devoted to his work ; but his day was short. He 
had originally gone out as a Missionary to Canada, to labour 
among the Drench-speaking people of that colony, and was 
removed to the West Indies on account of the failure of his 
health. After a short sojourn inBarbadoes he came to Grenada; 
but he had only laboured six months in the island when he was 
seized with fever, and died, after five days' illness, in the faith 
and hope of the Gospel. 

Shortly after the lamented death of Mr. Bishop, the Eev. D. 
Pattison arrived from Antigua ; and having supplied the vacant 
station for a few months, he was succeeded by the Eev. B. 
Pearce, a man of untiring zeal and energy. This devoted Mis- 
sionary, having commenced his labours with a pleasing prospect 
of success, embarked for Barbadoes, to settle his affairs, and to 
bring his family to Grenada ; but he was taken ill and died at 
sea, in the month of April, 1794. The station was thus once 
more left without a Missionary ; and for several years afterward 
was only supplied occasionally with ministerial labour, aud with 
such service as Mr. Hallett, the pious Parish Clerk, could render, 
previous to his call to the missionary work. Although the few 

z 



338 PABT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

who made a profession of religion were generally faithful, the 
mass of the people were deeply immersed in Popish ignorance 
and superstition. The difficulty of communicating religious 
instruction was increased by their peculiar dialect, which was a 
strange compound of French and English ; as well as by the 
political ferment in which the country was kept for several 
years, in consequence of the insurrectionary movements of the 
French colonists. 

When peace was once more restored to the colony, repeated 
attempts were made to re-establish the Grenada Mission. In 
1805 the Rev. W. Sturgeon was appointed to labour in the 
island, and was soon enabled to report an addition to the 
Society of ten members, making at that time a total of one 
hundred. But his promising career was soon brought to a 
close. He had not laboured many months in the colony when 
he was taken ill, and embarked for Tortola, with the hope that a 
change of air would promote his recovery. This hope was not 
realized, however ; for he became worse, and died at sea, 
very happy in God, on the 11th of April, 1806. Two years 
afterwards the Eev. John "Willis arrived from England, and 
laboured with zeal and diligence in collecting the scattered 
flock, and in seeking to bring sinners to Christ. 

In 1814 the Eev. M. C. Dixon was appointed to Grenada, 
and was made the instrument of good, not only to the slaves, 
but also to their masters, and to persons moving in the higher 
walks of society. It was during his sojourn in the island, that 
His Honour Eichard Otley, Esq., Chief Justice of the Colony, 
when suffering under a painful domestic affliction, came to the 
Missionary for counsel and consolation. The result of this 
interview, and the religious conversation which followed, was 
that His Honour was brought to a saving acquaintance with the 
truth as it is in Jesus, became a member of the Wesleyan 
Society, and the Leader of a small class of black and coloured 
people. A circumstance so unusual excited considerable atten- 
tion at the time, and perhaps had some influence on the higher 
classes, who henceforth countenanced and supported our Mission 
to an extent which was not known in other parts of the West Indies. 
The Chief Justice, as a matter of course, exposed himself to a 



CHAP. V. — THE ISLAND OF GRENADA. 339 

measure of ridicule and sarcasm in some quarters, but this he 
regarded not ; but both in Grenada and in the East Indies, to 
which country he afterwards removed, he proved himself the 
faithful friend of Wesleyan Missions. 

Mr. Dixon was succeeded in 1816 by the Rev. William Lill, 
who bade fair to sustain the reputation of the Mission, being a 
young man of superior pulpit talents, as well as of engaging 
manners and gentlemanly bearing. But in the midst of his 
useful labours, when his excellencies were becoming more and 
more appreciated, he was taken to his heavenly reward, and the 
station was once more left without a Missionary. 

In 13 IS the Eev. W. J. Shrewsbury arrived in Grenada, and 
entered upon his labours with zeal and prudence, and with a 
fair prospect of success. In the month of June he was joined 
by the Eev. W. D. Gov, whose appointment to this station was 
made under peculiar circumstances. Mr. Goy had embarked in 
February for Dominica ; but, in company with the Eev. James 
Fowler, suffered shipwreck off the coast of France. Having 
been mercifully delivered from the dangers of the deep, the 
Missionaries returned to London to make a fresh start for the 
West Indies. One morning, whilst the Committee were deli- 
berating in reference to the matter, a letter was received from 
the late Joseph Butterworth, Esq., M.P., enclosing one from the 
Hon. John Eoss, of Grenada, stating that Mr. Shrewsbury had 
visited one or two of his estates, and making liberal offers of 
support, if the Society would send another Missionary to Gre- 
nada, that his people, and those on estates for which he was 
attorney, might be more fully supplied with religious instruction. 
To meet this call it was at once decided that Mr. Goy should go 
to Grenada. He embarked accordingly, and arrived at St. 
George's in the month of June. The two Missionaries being 
of one mind and heart, arranged their plans of usefulness, and 
formed all the villages and estates to which they had access, 
amounting to fourteen or fifteen in number, into a regular Cir- 
cuit ; and to enable them to accomplish their work effectually, 
Mr. Eoss, with his usual liberality, made them a present of a 
Circuit horse. After the removal of Mr. Shrewsbury to Barba- 
does, Mr. Cheeswright took his place, and was made very use- 

z 2 



8-A' pabt ::. — t:-:i west imdies. 

ful during the time that he laboured in the island, and on his 
departure was succeeded by the Bi Squire. Soon after 

this, B. Hewitson, Esq., and other gentlemen on the windward 
side of the island, having written to the Committee, asking for a 
Missionary for that district, and promising support to a con- 
siderable extent, the Be? 1 Imondson was appointed :: St 
George's, to labour with Mr. Squire, and Mr. Gov took up his 
residence in the windward district, and thus the island had 
three Missionaries. Mr. Goy laboured in his new sphere with 
exemplary diligence, visiting the respective estates, establishing 
a cause at Grenville, and was undoubtedly made a blessing to 
many. On his removal from Grenada, after a residence of 
neari - Mr. Goy was succeeded in the windward 

district by the Bev. Thomas Murray ; but the results not being 
satisfactory to the next Superintendent, the Missionary was 
withdrawn, and that part of the island was left without a minis- 
terial supply for many years, as will be seen in the course of our 
:\:::: 11 

In after years the above-named Missionaries were succeeded 
e Rev. 1 1 ssrs I ne, Mortier, Bathbone, Tiddler, Briddon, 
Ali is, Aeard, Wood, and others, who laboured more or less suc- 
cesAAA ; ;.-_A. sever;/. ;: ~A : :i .1. siA 

An lv : .;: Ai --7111 1: ~:A If v-:v rA^fii: :: A A ::: 
:ie :iAA:i;i'v As::rv ::' e ;.:•:: A 11— I11: IreAn A. 1 . 
limis A Ais :r;e: ske:A re: 1.:: — 11 A- 1 sine :: :'. ri: :ie 
numbered among my personal friends and fellow labourers in 

1:1 llini 1A .. :iii;r:i :::eei :: 1A1 5.1.: 1- 

;;.':; 5 A Ae ii.iA ; 5 I A111 i A :::ie ne -sires A:ervr:rAs 
r '::::' :: :::i::f Ae Aeeres: :: Ae IleAeiier's AA1A11 

Ai :r.v -.-;-_- Aniei: :: Aim es ". VissAie'.y A Gre: 
11 'i:: AA. :i.ii- 1 Af ir.1'1 :; :A vrrjrrese :: :" 



AllssAierv A Ae is".: 



CHAP. V. — THE ISLAND OF UBXKADA. 341 

and strength of the Lord, to attempt the extension of the f 
•which at this time was limited to St. George's and two out- 
stations, Constantine and Woburn, both of which were within 
four miles of the town. The places formerly visited by the 
I lissionaries on the windward side of the island had been relin- 
quished several years before, in consequence of want of fruit, 
lack of funds, or the pressing difficulties of the times ; and 
aada\had once more become a station for only one Mis- 
sionary. But although I had no ministerial colleague, I was 
peculiarly favoured in having the assistance and co-operation of 
two or three zealous and devoted Local Preachers, young men 
of colour, who had not only received the Gospel themselves, but 
who felt called to proclaim it to others, according to the ability 
-which God had given. Under these circumstances, it appeared 
to me that the time was come when we ought to endeavour to 
do something for the more remote and neglected parts of this 
interesting island. I therefore resolved upon a tour :: observa- 
tion. 

On the morning ;: Friday, the 14th of May, I set out in 
company with twc friends, Messrs. Brown and Wharton, and 
we rode to Gouyave, a distance of twelve miles, before break- 
This is a neat little village close to the sea, in the parish 
::. John. I observed a Protestant church in a very dilapi- 
date, and a rectory; but was informed that the parish was 
without a Clergyman. Tie Eoman Catholic system was in full 
operation, having a neat little chapel and an active Priest. After 
taking some refreshment^ and making a few inquiries, we pro- 
. 3n jut journey. i stance of about four miles 

further, we pas- ed through Grand Pova, another little village, 
with i ntial Protestant chapel, but no [Minister. A 

four o'clock p.m. we same to Recourse Estate, in Duquesne 
Valley, where received by Mr. and Mrs. Fair- 

clough, who had long been lesiring our visit, that we might 
make arrangements for the religious instruction of their people. 

Ha ed during the day on Saturday, we all proceeded 

on Su . morning to the village :: Si nteurs, vrherc I preached 

in th -house, whic a a _ the authorities 

: n. The day was fine, and a large congregation 



342 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

assembled, consisting of all classes of the community, from the- 
highest functionary in the parish to the poorest peasant. From 
the marked attention which the people paid to the word 
preached, I was led to entertain a hope that lasting good might 
be the result. Here again we met with an excellent new Pro- 
testant church ; but it has no Minister to instruct the people. 
The church is built upon a narrow neck of land, terminating in 
a bold promontory, the foot of which is washed by the rolling 
billows of the ocean. It was down this very precipice that 
forty Caribs dashed themselves headlong in 1650, when pursued 
by the French. I gazed upon the spot with peculiar feelings, 
and could hardly refrain from tears at the recollection of the 
cruelties which have so frequently attended European coloniza- 
tion. In the evening I preached to a good congregation in 
Mr. Fairclough's school-room, in Duquesne Valley. 

On Monday morning we proceeded on our tour round the 
island. In the afternoon we dined with George Patterson, Esq., 
at Conference Estate, and then ha stened on to La Baye, where 
we arrived about sunset. With only half-an-hour's notice we 
had a good congregation, and I preached in the dwelling-house 
of Mr. Robert Fletcher from, " God be merciful to me a sinner.' * 
The presence of the Lord was felt, and we received a token for 
good. A. kind friend, unknown to us, provided us with lodgings, 
and Divine Providence seemed to prepare the way before us. 
The following morning we held a prayer-meeting at six o'clock, 
when a goodly number attended. Grenville, which stands on 
La Baye, is a considerable village. Like several other places 
through which we passed, it had a goocl Protestant church, but 
no Minister. Although densely populated, this part of the 
island was totally destitute of the means of evangelical instruc- 
tion. Several of the inhabitants remembered the labours of the 
Rev. Messrs. Goy and Murray, and deeply regretted the with- 
drawal of the Missionaries from this neighbourhood. They 
were earnest in their entreaties that I would visit them again, 
which I promised to do, if possible. We returned to town 
through the parish of St. David, which has a good church and a 
Minister ; the first Protestant Clergyman we had met with in our 
whole tour. The distance we travelled this day was twentv-two 



CHAP. V. — THE ISLAND Of GRENADA. 343 

miles, through a beautiful and fertile country with an undu- 
lating surface. We reached St. George's in the evening, some- 
what fatigued, but thankful to God for His preserving goodness ; 
having made a complete circuit of the island during the four 
days we had been from home. 

The impression made upon my mind by this journey round 
the island, as to the spiritual destitution of the people, the 
friendly disposition of the planters, and the providential open- 
ings which presented themselves, was such as to induce me to 
resolve upon a strenuous effort to extend our labours :d these 
neglected districts. In this view I was nobly supported by the 
Local Preachers, who expressed their readiness to take their full 
share of work, both in town and country. We felt so much encou- 
raged with the prospect of good at Duquesne and La Baye, that 
we arranged at once to give preaching to each place every alter- 
nate Sabbath; and we commenced our arduous labours with 
confident hopes of success. At Duquesne we succeeded for a 
time beyond our most sanguine expectations. We held our 
meetings in the school-room, which Mr. Fairclough fitted up as 
a place of worship, with pulpit, seats, and lamps complete. The 
infant school was taught by one of our members from St. 
George's : a promising little society was formed : and I had rea- 
son to believe that several of the members were the subjects of 
the saving grace of God, although they had previously been 
addicted to all the follies of Popish superstition. In conse- 
quence of the lamented death of Mr. Fairclough, and other un- 
toward events, this station was relinquished in after years • but 
I entertain the pleasing hope that our humble labours at that 
period will ultimately appear not to have been in vain in the 
Lord. 

At La Baye, the Magistrates kindly allowed us the use of the 
Court-house for our meetings for some time; and we after? 
hired a large upper room. But feeling the necessity of a proper 
place of worship, we resolved to attempt the erection of a small 
chapel, although we knew not how we should raise adequate 
funds for the purpose. We commenced in faith, and Divine 
Providence opened our way before us. We made our appeal to 
the public ; and witnessed such a flow of Christian liberality as 



344 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

I have never seen surpassed, even in the West Indies. On the 
first day we collected £50 ; and the amount was soon increased 
to £230, — the entire cost of the erection, — so that no debt was 
allowed to remain on the premises. One gentleman sent me a 
donation of £10 on retiring from the first service which he 
attended in our hired room ; and other friends came forward to 
our help in a most gratifying maimer. The new chapel was 
soon completed, and opened for Divine service under the most- 
encouraging circumstances. We also organized a small Christian 
society, and were cheered by the evidences which were furnished 
of a real work of grace among the members. 

Whilst these efforts were being made for the extension of the 
work to the more remote parts of the island, the stations in the 
capital, and at the neighbouring places, were regularly supplied 
with the means of grace, and afforded indubitable evidences of 
growing prosperity. The congregations at St. George's were 
large and attentive ; and a Divine unction frequently accom- 
panied the preaching of the word. Several of the hearers were, 
moreover, induced to give themselves to the Lord, and to 
become more closely united to His people. The Wesleyan 
chapel was attended not only by the labouring classes, but by 
all ranks of the community. His Honour Chief Justice Sander- 
son rented a pew, and was a frequent hearer; and His Honour 
the Presideu t and Her Majesty's Attorney General attended 
occasionally, as well as several members of the House of 
Assembly, and respectable merchants of the colony. A kind 
and liberal feeling existed among persons of different denomina- 
tions, and everything was favourable to peace and prosperity. 

During the period of my missionary labours in Grenada, we 
were not only favoured to witness the blessed results of a 
preached Gospel, but also a cheering measure of prosperity in 
the educational department of our work. We had three day 
schools in active operation, conducted by native teachers of 
respectable talents ; and the advancement of the children, in 
various branches of useful information, as well as in religious 
knowledge, was very gratifying. The school at St. George's 
w T as of a superior character; and I have seldom met with 
children, in any country, more apt, intelligent, and interesting 



CHAP. V. — THE ISLAND OF GRENADA. 346 

than those taught in this establishment. Several of the elder 
scholars, moreover, gave pleasing evidence of youthful piety; 
an instance or two of which may now be given : — 

Eebecca Smith was a little girl of about eleven years of age, 
of jet black complexion, but of pleasing countenance and 
engaging manners. Her parents were poor but pious members 
of our church in St. George's, and sent their children from their 
infancy to the Mission school, where little Eebecca learned to 
read her Bible with fluency, and to write a good hand. She 
had for some time given evidence of seriousness, and had taken 
her part in the school anniversary, reciting her pieces with a 
degree of pathos and feeling which attracted the notice of all 
present ; when she came to me one day requesting permission 
to meet in class. I talked with her on the subject of personal 
religion, and of the love of Christ to little children, when she 
was much affected, and wept bitterly. Being satisfied with her 
sincerity, she was received as a candidate for church member- 
ship. She sought the Lord thus early, and was soon made 
happy in the Saviour's lore. During the remainder of our stay 
in Grenada she gave us great satisfaction by her consistent 
walk and conversation. She was fond of reading, and always 
perused with great interest the little books which were sent 
from England. When we left the island to enter upon another 
sphere of labour, little Eebecca was greatly troubled ; and the 
last time that I saw her she was standing upon the shore, with • 
many others, to take an affectionate leave of us as the boat 
moved off, when she showed that her heart was full of affection 
and love for her teacheis. About twelve months afterwards 
Mrs. Moister received a beautiful little letter from her, in which 
she said, among other sweet things, e; I am happy to say that I am 
still persuaded to follow Christ my Saviour; and I believe that, 
if I am faithful unto the end, I shall receive a crown of righteous- 
ness, which my Saviour will give unto me in the last day." 
Soon afterwards this intelligent, pious, and interesting little 
black girl sickened and died ; and by a letter which I received 
irom her father, I was happy to learn that she passed away to a 
brighter and better world above, not only resigned to the will of 
God, but triumphantly happy in the Saviour's love. 



346 PAUT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

At an early period of our residence in Grenada we also lost 
two little boys belonging to the Mission school, who were taken 
ill with fever, and both died happy in God, on the same day. 
All the scholars attended the funeral ; and it was most affect- 
ing to look upon the two little coffins, as they were brought 
into the chapel at the same time, and to hear the sweet voices 
of the children singing the funeral hymn, as they stood around 
the remains of their companions. The whole service was of a 
most impressive character ; and the little people seemed much 
affected while I exhorted them to remember now their Creator 
in the days of their youth. 

The Wesleyan Mission in Grenada has not only been favoured 
with the ordinary results of a faithful Gospel Ministry; it has 
had the additional honour of furnishing Native Ministers to 
labour in the great Mission field. Of these interesting cases 
an instance or two may be given, as illustrative of the best kind 
of fruit of missionary labour, and as specimens of the success 
which we hope to realize on a larger scale in different parts of 
the world. 

The Rev. Henry Wharton was born in Grenada, but educated 
in Scotland. He was brought to a saving knowledge of the 
truth soon after his return to the West Indies ; and when he 
first attracted my attention, I felt impressed with the conviction 
that the Lord had a work for him to do in His vineyard. I 
directed him to such a course of reading and study as I thought 
was calculated to expand his mind, and prepare him for future 
usefulness. He became a school teacher, a Class Leader, a Local 
Preacher ; and ultimately he stood before the District Meeting 
as an accepted candidate for the ministry. He was soon 
afterwards appointed to labour with me in St. Vincent's ; and, 
as he resided in my family, I had ample opportunities of 
observing his walk and conversation. He laboured with me 
faithfully as a son in the Gospel ; and from his Christian con- 
sistency, zeal, and perseverance, I was led to esteem him very 
highly in love, and to indulge pleasing hopes of his future 
career. These hopes have been happily realized. "When he had 
been with me about two years, he felt it upon his heart to offer 
himself as a Missionarv for Western Africa, the land of his 



CHAP. V. — THE ISLAND OF GRENADA. 347 

fathers. His letter to the General Secretaries was published in 
the "Missionary Notices" for 1844, and his offer was gladly 
accepted by the Committee. I was requested to send him to 
England by the first opportunity, as his services were urgently 
required for an important station on the Gold Coast. At his 
request I accompanied him to Grenada, to take leave of his 
aged mother and Christian friends. An interesting tea meeting 
was held, in connexion with the valedictory service, on the 
occasion of his leaving his native land, when his country- 
men presented him with a purse, for the purchase of the 
" London Encyclopaedia " and other works, as a memento of 
their affectionate regard. The young Missionary proceeded to 
England ; preached with acceptance in City Eoad Chapel ; went 
out to Africa ; and for nearly twenty years preached the Gospel 
with zeal and success in some of the high places of the Mission 
field, such as Kumasi, the capital of Ashanti, Cape Coast, and 
Akrah. He then paid a visit to England, to recruit his health, 
and to place his two sons at school ; after which he returned to 
his post of duty on the coast of Africa. It was very pleasant 
to see my dear friend and brother once more; and I trust that 
his future, for success and blessing, may not only be as the past, 
but much more abundant. 

The Rev. Walter Garry is also a native of Grenada, and 
received his first religious impressions in the Wesleyan Sabbath 
school. Soon after his conversion he removed to Tobago, to 
take charge of a Mission school. Here he pursued his studies 
under the direction of the Eev. Henry Hurd, became a Local 
Preacher, passed his examination, and was received as a candi- 
date for the ministry at the District Meeting held in Barbadoes 
in 1845. Being very young he was sent to the Theological 
Institution at Richmond, where he continued his studies with 
great advantage for three years. He then received an appoint- 
ment to Sierra Leone ; and, after serving the usual time in 
T\ estern Africa, he was transferred to the West Indies, where he 
still labours with acceptance and success. 

In addition to these, several other young men of superior 
talent were raised up to preach the Gospel in Grenada. Being 
settled in business, they acted in the capacity of Local Preachers; 



348 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

and their useful labours were highly appreciated both by the 
Missionaries and their fellow countrymen. 

Another pleasing feature of our work in Grenada was the 
zeal and liberality with which all classes of the community came 
forward to support the Mission cause. The first year of my 
appointment to the station the proceeds of the Branch Mis- 
sionary Society amounted to £164. 16s. Id., being an advance 
on the preceding year of £64. 15s. 2d. ; but during the second 
year we realized the noble sum of £227. 10s. §d. for Foreign 
Missions, in addition to moneys raised weekly and quarterly 
for the ordinary support of the work, and the special efforts 
made for the erection of the new chapel at La Baye, and other 
objects. It must not be supposed, from this statement, that our 
people were generally wealthy. The majority of our church- 
members were labourers and tradesmen ; and the large amount 
of money annually raised for the spread of the Gospel was the 
result of combined and systematic effort, such as may be fairly 
held up as an example to professing Christians in other lands. 
Our Missionary Meetings were also characterized by a remark- 
able amount of native talent, as well as of genuine missionary 
zeal and liberality. 

At a Missionary Meeting held in St. George's on the evening 
of Tuesday, August 31st, 1841, His Honour Chief Justice 
Sanderson in the chair, after eloquent speeches had been 
delivered by James N. Brown, Richard Walker, and Eobert 
Gentle, Esquires,* intelligent gentlemen of colour, all natives 

* These gentlemen had been elevated by their talents and general excel- 
lencies to honourable and responsible positions in society. On the Sabbath 
they might have been occasionally found proclaiming the truths of the 
Gospel to their fellow-countrymen, as Local Preachers, in Wesleyan chapels ; 
and during the week they might have been heard in the House of Assembly 
making eloquent speeches, and taking a part in legislating for their native 
country. D. J. Davison, Esq., the talented editor of the "Grenada Chronicle;" 
James Glean, Esq., the general genius ; and the Hon. Samuel Cockburn, 
Esq., the self-taught astronomer and philosopher, and other friends whom I 
might mention, in addition to the gentlemen already named, were all natives 
of Grenada, and a credit to their native isle, as well as to the Mission by 
which they had been so largely benefitted. Some of these honoured brethren 
have been called to their reward ; whilst the survivors continue, I trnst, to 
be made a blessing to their fellow men. 



CHAP. V. — THE ISLAND OF GRENADA. 349" 

of the West Indies, Alexander Wake, a native of Africa, was 
induced to say a few words. He evidently laboured under 
feelings of deep emotion ; and in the course of his address he 
made the following remarks : " I feel ashamed to stand up 
before such a large company ; but I love the Mission cause for 
what it has done for my soul. Last year I gave three dollars ; 
but this year I want to give four dollars. The world is very 
large : it has four quarters, and I want to give one dollar for 
each quarter of the world. But suppose I do so ; somebody 
may say, c Brother Sandy does not love his own country more 
than other countries.' I therefore want to give one dollar 
more. Mr. Chairman, this must be my subscription this year : 
one dollar for Europe, one dollar for America, one dollar for 
Asia, and two dollars for Africa ! " 

This good man regularly contributed a shilling a week in his 
Class, besides aiding the cause in various other ways ; and such 
was his love for his native land that he actually commenced: 
learning to write in his old age, with the view of preparing 
himself to return to Africa, to labour for the benefit of his 
fellow-countrymen ; but before he had made much progress he 
was removed to the better country. 

After labouring very happily for two years in Grenada, we 
were called to separate from our beloved people, and to remove 
to another station. On the evening of Sunday, January 29th, 
18-13, I preached for the last time at St. George's ; and in the 
course of the sermon I was led to urge the people to be faithful 
unto death, and to " meet me in heaven." This circumstance 
elicited from Mr. James Glean, — a young man of colour' and the 
teacher of one of our schools, — the following lines, which he 
sent me the next clay, and which I gladly place on record, as a 
specimen of native talent, as well as a proof of sincere Chris- 
tian affection : — 

" Meet you there ! there is something both awful aud sweet 
In those words of your charge, ' Meet me there;' 
'T is so truly sublime, and with love so replete, 
And comes from a heart so sincere. 

" Meet you there ! and why not ? Shall the trammels of sin 
Ever fetter me down to vile clav ? 



350 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

No, no, I will mount ! the great prize I must win ; 
I cannot stop short in the way. 

" Your Saviour a mansion for you did prepare, 
Still travel to heaven, I shall c meet you there' " 

On Tuesday, the 01st, we embarked for our new station 3 
being accompanied on board the sloop " Harriet " by several of 
the friends with whom we had lived and laboured so happily, 
and who were deeply concerned at our leaving. The school 
children were assembled on the wharf; and, as we stepped into 
the boat, they commenced singing a beautiful farewell hymn. 
Our hearts were full when we bade them " Good bye ;" and the 
last sound which we heard was that of their dear infant voices, 
wafted over the water as we left the shores of Grenada.* 

The following brief notices may afford the reader a more dis- 
tinct and comprehensive view of the principal stations occupied 
by the Wesleyan Missionary Society in this interesting island. 

St. Geokge's is the metropolis of the colony, and the place 
where the Missionary resides. The chapel is a good substantial 
stone building, of respectable appearance, and will seat about five 
hundred persons. It was erected by the united efforts of the 
Eev. Messrs. Shrewsbury and Goy, in the year 1820. These 
zealous and devoted Missionaries had been labouring for some 
time with a cheering measure of success ; and the old chapel 
became so crowded, many having to stand outside in the yard, 
that they considered the time was come to attempt the erection 
of a new and more commodious sanctuary. Iu those dark days 
of West Indian slavery this was a great undertaking ; and they 
entered upon it with some trepidation, not knowing how to 
raise the means for its accomplishment. Their fears were soon 
removed, however ; for they had no sooner made their intentions 

* Had the limits and object of these sketches permitted, I should have 
had pleasure in giving a few extracts from several addresses, both in prose 
and verse, from Local Preachers, Stewards, Leaders, and Christian friends, 
as well as some account of the valuable testimonial — a silver tea service, 
with a suitable inscription — which was kindly presented to us on the 
occasion of our leaving the island. Our friends in Grenada may be 
assured, however, that they are not forgotten : they will have a place in our 
affectionate remembrance till the dav of our death. 



CHAP. V. THE ISLAND OF GRENADA. 351 

known than they met with the liberal response for which 
Grenada has always been so remarkable. On laying the state- 
ment of the case before the Governor, Major- General P. Riall, 
they received a communication from his Secretary, Lieutenant- 
Colonel J. Wilson, assuring them of His Excellency's approval, 
and of the pleasure which he had in contributing the sum of 
£66, which was accompanied by a donation of £10 from the 
Secretary himself. "With this encouragement the Missionaries 
commenced a general canvass, and in the first three days they 
obtained subscriptions in St. George's to the amount of JB700. 
By the time that the country places had been visited, and the 
church members had sent in their offerings, the list was raised 
to the noble sum of £1,500 ; the late Joseph Butterworth, Esq., 
of London, generously contributing ten guineas towards the 
object. The new chapel being finished, on Sunday, the 20th of 
May, 1820, it was solemnly dedicated to the worship of God, Mr. 
Goy preaching in the morning, and his new colleague, Mr. 
Cheeswright, in the evening, Mr. Shrewsbury having been 
removed to Barbadoes before the auspicious day arrived. The 
chapel has recently been enlarged and improved, and is still 
attended by an intelligent and respectable congregation. A 
good day school supplies the educational wants of the rising 
generation. The Mission-House was formerly situated on an 
eminence above the chapel; but a superior residence for the 
Missionary has been recently purchased. It stands on the hill 
in the centre of the town, and commands a delightful prospect 
on either hand. 

Wobukn is about four miles to the south of St. George's, 
between Clarke's Court and Caliviny Estates. In 1837, a 
substantial school-house was erected here, under the direction 
of the Eev. James Aldis, by aid of a Government grant for 
education. A day school is conducted in this building, with 
great advantage to the children of the labourers on the sur- 
rounding estates ; and it is used as a place of worship on the 
Sabbath. The attendance is good, and a considerable number 
of the labouring population have been united in church fellow- 
ship. 

Constantine is about the same distance from St. George's 



352 PAET IT. — THE WEST INDIES. 

as Woburn, but in the contrary direction, and supplies the 
necessities of another locality in a similar way. The school- 
chapel stands on an elevated ridge at the foot of the Grand 
Etang mountain, amid splendid scenery, with fertile valleys on 
either hand. During my residence in the island this station 
suffered a great loss in the death of the excellent teacher, Mr. 
John Carr. He died of yellow fever, very happy in God, on 
the 20th of August, 1841 ; and what I witnessed while stand- 
ing by his dying couch formed one of those affecting missionary 
scenes never to be effaced from the memory. The school and 
religious services at Constantine are well attended, and are a 
great benefit to the neighbourhood. 

La Baye is about fourteen miles from St. George's, on the 
windward side of the island. Grenville is a bustling little 
place, and situated close to the sea on La Baye, where large 
ships from Europe take in their cargoes. On an eminence 
behind the town stands our little chapel, which will seat about 
two hundred persons. The foundation stone of this neat little 
sanctuary was laid by Matthew Welsh, Esq., on the ISth of 
October, 18-11, the inhabitants having contributed liberally 
towards the object, as already stated. It was opened for Divine 
service a few months afterwards, and has proved a great bless- 
in<* to the neighbourhood. A day school is also taught here; 
and a small society has been formed ; but the prevailing super- 
stitions of Eomanisin have been a serious barrier to the progress 
of the work. The direct road from St. George's to La Baye 
lies over the Grand Etang mountain, and is remarkably steep 
and rugged ; but the scenery is splendid beyond description. 

Cakhiacou is a beautiful island, about ten miles from 
Grenada, of which it is a dependency. It contains a few sugar 
estates, and a population of nearly four thousand people. A. 
few years ago we had a resident Missionary there for a short 
time ; but the result was not sucli as to warrant a continuance 
of the arrangement, especially when the depressed state of the 
Societv's funds was taken into account. We have still a few 
church members, who keep together, and are visited occasionally 
by the Missionary. 

The Isle de Ehonde used to be visited in former times- 



CHAP. VI. — THE ISLAND OF TOBAGO. 353 

about once a quarter, when Grenada was favoured with three 
Missionaries. The only estate on the island had about thres 
hundred Negroes connected with it, forty or fifty of whom had 
been brought from other places, where they had heard the 
Gospel, and were seriously disposed. Gouyave, Sauteurs, and 
Hermitage have also been visited occasionally ; but, without an 
increase of ministerial labour, they cannot be supplied regu- 
larly. After all the changes which have taken place we have 
now in connexion with the Grenada Mission five chapels, two 
Missionaries, six hundred and twelve church members, four 
hundred and six scholars, and eighteen hundred attendants on 
public worship. 



CHAPTER VI. 

THE ISLAND OF TOBAGO. 

Missionary Voyages — Appearance of Tobago — Settled by the Dutch — 
Taken by the French — Conquered by the English — Prosperity of the 
Colony — Aspect of the Country — Towns and Villages — Population — 
Religion and Morals — Moravian Missionary Society — London Mis- 
sionary Society — Wesleyan Missionary Society — Progress of the Work 
— Mission Stations — Scarborough — Mount St. George — Mason Hall. 

One of the greatest discomforts to which the Missionaries 
and their families, in the smaller islands of the West Indies, 
were exposed in former times, was the tossing about on the sea 
once a year in going to and from the District Meetings, or in 
removing to their new stations. The vessels usually employed 
on those occasions were small inconvenient little sloops or 
schooners ; and when the party was large, it required some 
activity and contrivance to make arrangements for cooking, 
eating, and sleeping during the voyage, which sometimes lasted 
for a week or ten days. The superintendence of these things 
devolved, as a matter of course, upon those Missionaries who 
were most free from sea-sickness, and otherwise best adapted 

A A 



354 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

for the office, but we soon became reconciled to a mode of life 
which at first was anything but agreeable. 

We found some relief, however, on these occasions, in the 
harmony and good feeling which generally pervaded the com- 
pany. As Christian Missionaries, we knew nothing of coldness 
and shyness in our social intercourse. Remaining in the same 
District, if spared, for many years, without those frequent 
changes which are so common in England, we became well 
acquainted with each other ; and, being so frequently thrown 
upon our own resources, as a body of Ministers, in far distant 
lands, in circumstances both of joy and sorrow, we were 
united by ties of sympathy and affection, such as can be under- 
stood only by those who have been called to leave kindred and 
home to preach the Gospel in heathen countries. We loved as 
brethren, and no sacrifice was thought too great to make to pro- 
mote each other's comfort. The incidents connected with some 
of these missionary voyages were of such a character as never 
to be effaced from the memory. Many a beautiful moonlight 
night have we sat upon the deck of the vessel, and talked about 
Missions, books, home, kindred, and friends, until we have 
become so deeply interested in the subjects of our conversation 
that we have been loath to " turn in." * Since the West India 
Steam Packet Company's vessels have been plying among the 
islands, facilities for travelling are afforded which were unknown 
in former times ; and the Missionaries and their families are 

* This reference to missionary journeys, privations, joys, sorrows, sym- 
pathy, and brotherly love, reminds me of a periodical recently received from 
Australia, containing a series of " Missionary Recollections " of the West 
Indies, in which the writer refers to me as his Superintendent, and to the 
spirit in which we lived and laboured together, in terms which I cannot 
quote without the appearance of egotism ; but I may be allowed sincerely 
to reciprocate his kindness, and to assure J. B. and my other dear surviving 
colleagues, scattered abroad in different parts of the world, that they are 
still remembered with undying affection, both in social converse and at the 
throne of heavenly grace. 

" Subsists as in us all one soul; 
No power can make us twain ; 
And mountains rise and oceans roll 
To sever us in vain." 



CHAP. VI. — THE ISLAND OF TOBAGO. 355 

now sometimes able to make arrangements for their removals 
with less discomfort and inconvenience than formerly. 

These intercolonial voyages of the Missionaries are occa- 
sionally attended with considerable clanger, as well as discom- 
fort. The vessels themselves, which traffic among the islands, 
are not well adapted to encounter stormy weather ; and the 
Creole Captains who command them are too frequently but 
partially acquainted with the science of navigation. After 
having been out at sea for several days, we have sometimes 
gladly embraced the opportunity which presented itself, on 
falling in with a vessel, of inquiring our way to the next port ; 
and we have been obliged more than once to assume the entire 
control over the vessel we had chartered, and to direct the 
sailors what to do, being apprehensive of the consequences of 
leaving all to the Captain, especially when we had reason to fear 
that strong drink was gaining the mastery over reason. 

On one occasion, when on our way from Trinidad to St. 
Tincent's, we were placed in circumstances of considerable 
peril. Having to call at Grenada, to take on board the Mis- 
sionary who was going to the District Meeting, we stood 
directly for that island. We made Point Saline about sunset ; 
but, the wind being rather unfavourable, we had to beat up the 
coast after dark. The Captain was totally unacquainted with 
the island, and we were at a loss to know what course to take. 
We could faintly discern something white a-head, which was 
pronounced by a loquacious sailor to be the town of St. George. 
It was soon settled that we should proceed straightforward at 
once ; but before we had proceeded many hundred yards we 
found ourselves on a dangerous rocky shore ; and that, instead 
of entering the harbour, as we expected, we were making towards 
a field from which the sugar-canes had been reaped, the white 
appearance of which had deceived the eye. We had scarcely 
time to consult about the matter when we found ourselves sur- 
rounded by breakers, the deafening roar of which was anything 
but agreeable. At my request the Captain instantly let go the 
anchor, and we remained during the night in a narrow basin, 
almost surrounded with reefs. As the motion of the vessel was 
considerable, we were apprehensive that she might drag the 

2 a 2 



356 PAItT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

anchor ; Mr. Ranyell and I therefore kept watch during the 
night, and we were thankful to find she held her ground. The 
next morning our schooner was seen from the harbour, and a 
number of boats were manned, and came out to our assistance* 
taking it for granted that our vessel was aground. In the 
mean time, perceiving the narrow channel by which we had 
entered, we weighed anchor, tacked out into the open sea, bore 
up for the harbour, and met our kind friends coming* down, wha 
gave us a hearty cheer on our providential deliverance from 
such a perilous position. 

Having been joined by the Rev. George Beard and his son, 
we proceeded on our voyage, truly thankful to our heavenly 
Father for His preserving goodness. During the following night 
we found ourselves in company with a suspicious-looking 
Spanish launch, which was pronounced by some on board to be 
a pirate. Our apprehensions were increased by the circumstance 
of the two vessels having nearly come in collision when sailing 
on different " tacks," on which occasion the Captains used very 
abusive language to each other. The next morning we were 
glad to find that our disagreeable companion had disappeared, 
and we proceeded on our voyage in peace and safety. 

In the year 1841, our annual District Meeting was held in 
the island of Tobago, the only colony in the St. Vincent's 
and Demerara Districts to which I had not the pleasure of an 
appointment, during the period of my missionary labours in the 
West Indies. I visited the station, however, on the occasion 
alluded to ; and have had ample opportunities of marking the 
progress of events in that island for many years past ; and it is 
with pleasure that I place upon record a few particulars with 
reference to it, which may perhaps be interesting to the friends 
of Missions. 

The navigation between Grenada and Tobago is somewhat 
dreary and intricate, as it is generally necessary to work well 
up to windward, and then steer between the Grenadines. On 
the occasion alluded to, I was accompanied by the Eev. Messrs. 
Bickford and Hurd, Mr. William Cleaver, a candidate for the 
ministry from Trinidad, and the Rev. John and Mrs. Wood, 
who had joined us at Grenada. We left the island last men- 



CHAP. VI. — THE ISLAND OF TOBAGO. 35 7 

iioned on the 27th of January, and beat up to Union, from 
whence we were able to lay our course for the place of our des- 
tination, by keeping close to the wind. On Friday we made 
Tobago, which is not very attractive in its appearance, on the 
eastern coast. The shore being very dangerous and rocky, we 
were obliged to keep well out to sea until we came opposite the 
port. On the following morning we entered the harbour, and 
<£ame to anchor, with the town of Scarborough clearly in view, 
which presented a very agreeable prospect. On landing we 
were kindly received by the Rev. G. and Mrs. Ran yell, who 
had made every necessary arrangement for our comfor t during 
our sojourn. On Monday evening, the 1st of February, I 
preached in town ; and on Sunday, the 7 th, I spent a happy day 
at Mount St. George, in company with my respected friend and 
brother, the late Rev. John Blackwell, who kindly shared with 
me in the services of the sanctuary. 

Soon after our party reached Tobago, we were joined by the 
Missionaries from Barbadoes and St. Vincent's. They entered the 
harbour in a beautiful schooner in gallant style, with flags floating 
on both topmasts, bearing the striking and appropriate mottoes, 
4< The world is my parish," and " Best of all is, God is with us." 
This circumstance, together with the assembling of so many 
Ministers for the first time in the island, excited much interest . 
and our religious services were well attended. During our stay 
we were treated with much kindness and hospitality by the 
friends generally, and especially so by A. Melville, J. T. Com- 
missiong, J. I. Bovell, and R. G. Ross, Esqs. Having finished 
^our business, we returned to our respective stations, favourably 
impressed with our visit to this interesting colony. 

The island of Tobago is situated in latitude 11° 15' north, 
-and longitude. 60° 40' west, about eighty-one miles from Gre- 
nada, and fifty-one from Trinidad and the Spanish Main, which 
can be clearly seen on a fine day. It is thirty-three miles long 
and nine broad, and presents to the view a surface less irregular 
and broken than that of many of the other West India islands, 
•and possesses a fertile soil, being watered by numerous springs. 
As the population only amounts to about fourteen thou- 
sand, it is not surprising that a considerable portion of the 



358 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

island continues in its original wilderness state, covered with 
primitive forest trees. Perhaps this circumstance may account, 
in part, for the unenviable reputation which this colony has 
gained for its alleged insalubrious climate. If it should ever 
become as thoroughly cleared and cultivated as Barbadoes, 
perhaps it will be equally healthy. 

It has never been accurately ascertained by whom the island 
of Tobago was at first discovered ; but, from the scanty records 
which we find of its early history, it appears to have passed 
through various changes in its process of colonization. As 
early as 1632, a party of Dutch adventurers from FJessingen 
landed on the shores of Tobago, and formed the first European 
settlement. At that period the island was found without 
inhabitants; but it bore evident marks of having been once 
peopled by a savage and warlike race of Indians. The Spaniards 
of Trinidad no sooner heard of the formation of this infant 
colony than, influenced by a spirit of jealousy, they fitted out 
an expedition against it, in which they were joined by the 
savage natives of the neighbouring continent of South America. 
The Dutch settlers were taken by surprise, and fell an easy prey 
to their enemies. Most of them were cruelly massacred, while 
the few who escaped fled to the woods, where they secreted them- 
selves, until they found an opportunity to leave the country. 
Having completed their work of destruction, the invaders took 
their departure ; and the island was once more left without 
inhabitants. 

About twenty years afterwards, the Dutch made a second 
attempt to form a settlement ; but they had not proceeded far 
with building houses, and cultivating the ground, when, in 1665,. 
they were attacked and vanquished by the English. The con- 
querors were not permitted long to enjoy the fruits of their 
victory, however ; for they were soon afterwards attacked by the 
French, to whom they were obliged to yield the colony. 
Louis XIV., having more territory than he could either people 
or defend, restored Tobago to the Dutch, its original possessors.. 
The resident colonists now received an accession of more than 
a thousand settlers from Holland, and commenced the cultiva- 



CHAP. VI. — THE ISLAND OF TOBAGO. 350 

tion of tobacco, indigo, cotton, and sugar, on a scale never 
before attempted. 

In 1677, the French, being allured by the improved state of 
the colony, equipped a fleet to take possession of it ; but the 
Dutch, being aware of the design of their enemies, also sent a 
strong naval force to defend it. The hostile fleets came in con- 
tact off the coast of Tobago, where a fearful conflict followed, 
in which every ship was dismasted, and twelve vessels burned 
to ashes, while several others were sunk. Those which escaped 
destruction were reduced to mere wrecks ; and the French were 
obliged to relinquish their undertaking. They renewed the 
attack, however, a few months afterwards, when a shell, thrown 
into the fortification of the colonists, blew up their powder 
magazine, and decided the contest in favour of the assailants. 
Instead of settling in the island, however, the French dis- 
mantled the fortifications ; set fire to the houses, plantations, 
and ships in the harbour ; transported the inhabitants from the 
country ; and took their departure, leaving the island once more 
without an inhabitant, in which state it remained for fifty years. 

In 1763, the English once more took possession of Tobago, 
and laid the foundation of a permanent and prosperous colony. 
Our countrymen committed an egregious error, however, in 
forming their settlements chiefly on the leeward side of the 
island, which was found to be very unhealthy, and great sick- 
ness and mortality were the result. They afterwards turned 
their attention to the windward district, which proved much 
more salubrious. In 1781, the colony was once more taken by 
the French; but it was re-taken by the English in 1803, and 
has ever since remained in our possession. Since the Kestora- 
tion of peace to Europe and the colonies, this island has 
rapidly advanced in agricultural and mercantile prosperity ; and 
it will now bear a comparison with any of the smaller islands of 
the West Indies. 

Tobago cannot boast of many towns and villages. Scar- 
borough, the capital, is said to bear a striking resemblance to 
the celebrated watering-place of that name in Yorkshire, from 
which it may have originally derived its appellation. It is con- 
veniently situated on rising ground, which gives it a beautiful 



360 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

appearance when seen from a distance. The town contains a 
few good buildings, some of which are erected of wood, and 
others of stone and brick. The Wesley an chapel, English 
church, and Court-house are respectable edifices ; and so are 
some of the mansions occupied by merchants, planters, and 
others. The fort and barracks are situated on a hill above the 
town, and command a delightful and extensive prospect. Im- 
mediately below we have a view of the streets and houses of 
Scarborough, with the vessels in the harbour ; and beyond 
appear several beautiful rocky islands, over which the milk- 
white foam of the ocean is frequently breaking ; whilst in the 
distance, on the southern horizon, may be seen the dim blue 
outline of the island of Trinidad and the Spanish Main. 
Courland and Man-of-War Bay are inconsiderable villages, on 
the north side of the island. 

The Moravian Missionary Society had the honour of being 
the first to attempt the moral improvement of the inhabitants 
of Tobago, who are represented as being in a state of fearful 
spiritual destitution in the latter part of the seventeenth cen- 
tury. In 1790, the Rev. T. Montgomery, the father of the 
celebrated poet, the late James Montgomery, Esq., of Sheffield, 
arrived from Barbadoes, at the earnest request of Mr. Hamilton, 
a gentleman of considerable property and influence in the 
island. The Missionary was received with great kindness and 
cordiality by the Governor, Count Dillon, as well as by other 
gentlemen of note in the colony ; and at first the prospect of 
usefulness appeared very promising. His labours were soon 
obstructed, however, by several untoward circumstances. A 
mutiny broke out among the soldiers of the garrison, the town 
was reduced to ashes by a destructive fire, and soon afterwards 
a dreadful hurricane laid waste the whole country. These 
events, which succeeded each other in rapid succession, caused 
great excitement in the island ; and when the effects had sub- 
sided, and meetings could again be held for the instruction of 
the people, the Negroes manifested great unwillingness to 
attend. On one occasion fourteen came; and on another, after 
the Missionary had waited a whole hour, only three made their 
appearance ; while on some Sabbaths not a single person came 



CHAP. VI. — THE ISLAND OF TOBAGO. 361 

near the place. After labouring for a year, Mr. Montgomery 
complained bitterly of want of success. In one communication 
he says, ic Our greatest grief is, that we have not yet found a 
single soul that seeks a Saviour" Having lost his wife, and 
being himself ill with dysentery, the Missionary returned to 
Earbadoes ; where, a short time afterwards, he was called to 
-exchange the sorrows of time for the joys of eternity. 

In 1798, the Moravian Mission was re-established by the 
Eev. C. F. W. Shirmer, who met with a favourable reception 
from many of the planters, and who commenced his labours 
with a fair prospect of success ; but about three years after- 
wards it was again abandoned in consequence of the alarm which 
prevailed on account of an alleged conspiracy among the 
Negroes to murder all the white inhabitants, and take posses- 
sion of the island. Several years afterwards the Mission was 
once more renewed under more favourable circumstances, and it 
has continued in active operation, with great advantage to the 
labouring population, to the present time. 

About the year 1808, the London Missionary Society 
appointed the Eev. E. Elliott to commence a Mission in 
Tobago. A chapel was erected for his accommodation in Scar- 
borough, where he had a small congregation of white and 
coloured people. He also preached occasionally on several 
estates ; but, as the Mission was attended with considerable 
expense and little success, it was relinquished in 1814, and Mr. 
Elliott removed to Demerara, where his labour's were made a 
great blessing. 

It was several years afterwards that the TVesleyan Missionary 
Society added Tobago to the list of West India stations ; but 
this delay was not owing to apathy or indifference, but to cir- 
cumstances which could not be controlled. As early as 1795 
the Eev. W. Turton paid a visit to this island from Antigua ; 
but just at this time the place was invaded by the Erench, as 
already mentioned, and the whole country was laid waste. Eor 
several days and nights the Missionary was exposed to the open 
air, having no other shelter than a bush to screen him from the 
sun by day and the cold by night, with scarcely any food to 
sustain nature. This brought on a fit of sickness, which con- 



362 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

tinued for some months. After the French had evacuated the 
island, Mr. Turton found it so difficult to collect a congregation 
in the unsettled state of the colony, that he was induced to 
return to Antigua. 

In 1817, the Eev. Messrs. Brown and Catts called at Tobago 
on their way to Hayti, and, being detained a few days, they 
collected some interesting information, which they communicated 
to the Society at home. They found several persons seriously 
disposed, who had been members of our church in other islands, 
with whom they held profitable conversation. They preached 
four times in the chapel built by Mr. Elliott, of the London 
Missionary Society, who had then left the island. This was the 
only place of worship at that time in the colony. Having 
received kind attention from several of the inhabitants, especially 
from a Mr. Cunningham, the Missionaries proceeded on their 
voyage to the place of their destination. In the course of the 
following year, a pious soldier wrote a letter from Tobago to the 
late Eev. Joseph Benson, setting forth the demoralized state of 
the community, and earnestly pleading for a Missionary. 

In 1817, the Eev. S. P. Woolley visited Tobago by direction 
of the Antigua District Meeting ; and he being deeply impressed 
with the necessity for something being done for a place so desti- 
tute of the means of religious instruction, arrangements were 
made at once for the provisional appointment of the Eev. J. 
Eayner to this new station. The work was commenced by this 
devoted Missionary with encouraging prospects of success ; but 
in a few months after his arrival his dear wife sickened and 
died; and, being left with a little infant, he was obliged to 
remove to another station. Mr. Eayner was succeeded by the 
Eev. John Smedley, who laboured for three years on this station 
with considerable success. They were years not only of arduous 
toil, but of severe affliction and bereavement. On the 23rd of 
November, 1820, he was called to commit to the cold grave the 
remains of the Eev. W. Larcom, a pious young Missionary, 
who had been sent to labour with him as his colleague ; and 
four days afterwards he was bereaved of his beloved wife. Mrs. 
Smedley died happy in God on Sunday, the 26th, after an 
illness of only eight days. The bereaved Missionary felt most 



CHAP. VI. — THE ISLAND OF TOBAGO. 363 

acutely his loneliness, but he laboured on with resignation and 
courage in his Master's work, and was made a great blessing to 
the people both in town and country. 

In the year 1823 the Rev. Messrs. Xelson and Stephenson 
were appointed to Tobago, and were soon enabled to report 
favourably of the state of the society in Scarborough, and to 
communicate the pleasing fact that eleven estates were accessible 
to them for the instruction of the long-neglected slave popula- 
ion. These zealous Missionaries were succeeded by the Rev. 
Messrs. Powell, Wood, Black well, and others, who laboured 
more or less successfully in this interesting island. 

The difficulties connected with slavery were severely felt, 
however, in this as in other West Indian colonies. It was not 
till the advent of the glorious emancipation that the way was 
fully opened for extensive usefulness among the labouring popu- 
lation. In the year 1834, after so many years of patient toil 
on the part of the Missionaries, there were only one hundred 
members in Society ; but a few years afterwards, when every 
hinderance had been removed out of the way, and free access 
was allowed to the people, the number of church members had 
increased to fifteen hundred. In the times of slavery our 
educational labours were necessarily confined to Sabbath schools ; 
but, since emancipation, day schools have been established in 
various parts of the country, and the people have made rapid 
progress in religious and general information. 

In the year 1839, the Rev. George Ranyell was appointed to 
Tobago ; and, during the three years that he laboured there, he 
was favoured to realize a large measure of success. The con- 
gregations in Scarborough rapidly improved : every pew in the 
chapel was engaged ; and a number of persons were brought to 
a saving knowledge of the truth. At Mount St. George, also, 
there was a large in-gathering of precious souls to the church 
of Christ ; although without a colleague, the zealous Missionary 
extended his labours to the windward district of the island, 
where inviting openings presented themselves for the introduction 
of the Gospel. When the people had been favoured to hear the 
good news for themselves, such was their desire to be more 
fully instructed in the way to heaven, that they frequently 



364 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

walked down to Mount St. George, a distance of twelve or 
fourteen miles, to hear a sermon, and returned to their homes 
the same day. It was pleasing also to observe, at this period, 
the absence of prejudice against the Gospel among the higher 
classes of the community. Wherever the Missionary travelled 
in the discharge of his important duties, he was received with 
kindness, and entertained with Christian hospitality. 

In the short space of two years, nearly three hundred mem- 
bers were added to the Society, and a large increase was realized 
in the financial resources of the Mission. In the year 1844, 
the proceeds of the Tobago Branch Missionary Society amounted 
to the noble sum of three hundred pounds. The people of God 
were willing in the day of His power. On one occasion, when 
the Missionary was coming home from the windward part of 
the island, the rain descended in torrents, and he got a thorough 
w T etting. A few weeks afterwards, on returning to the same 
estate, he preached in the boiling-house ; and, just before he con- 
cluded the service, a smart black man stepped up to him, and 
said, "Stop, Massa; we* go make collection to-night/' " A 
collection for what? " said the Missionary, " I have not heard of 
it." " Neber mind, Massa ; w r e been w T ant for make a collection." 
They were allowed to proceed, a hat was handed round, and a 
liberal collection was made. The good man who had taken the 
lead in the business then came up, and poured the money upon 
the table, and said, "Now, Massa Minister, de collection be 
for you, for your wet jacket de last time you come to preach to 
we." The Missionary was pleasingly surprised at this act of 
Christian liberality and kind consideration. He explained to 
the people, however, that he required no such remuneration for 
his " wet jacket ;" and that the money which they had so gene- 
rously contributed would be given to aid the funds of the " great 
Society " which sent him to preach to them. He also assured 
them that he would continue his visits with pleasure, regardless 
of an occasional wetting ; and that his best reward would be 
their serious attention and cordial reception of the truths of the 
Gospel which it was his business to proclaim. 

In 1841, the Rev. James Bickford was appointed to the 
Tobago station, and nobly followed up the labours of his zealous 



CHAP. VI. — THE ISLAND OF TOBAGO. 365 

predecessor, both in town and country ; and the good work con- 
tinued to prosper in all its departments. The following year, 
the late Eev. S. Durrie was appointed to this station as the 
second Missionary, the chapel at Scarborough was enlarged, the 
new places in the remote parts of the island were more fre- 
quently supplied with preaching, and a large number of mem- 
bers were gathered into the church of Christ. 

The Eev. Henry Hurd was appointed to the superintendency 
of this Mission in 1844 ; and, during the period of his zealous 
labours in the island, the good work steadily advanced on all 
the stations. 

Thus the Mission in Tobago continued to prosper from year 
to year, without anything occurring to impede its progress, till 
the year 1847, when a dreadful hurricane laid waste the whole 
country, and many of our people suffered the "loss of all 
things." Several of our chapels, also, were laid in ruins; and 
the Missionaries were placed in circumstances of extreme finan- 
cial difficulty. These obstacles were ultimately surmounted, 
however ; and, although Tubago has of late years suffered, in 
common with other West Indian colonies, in its agricultural and 
commercial interests, the Mission work maintains an important 
position. The station was occupied in subsequent years by the 
Eev. Messrs. Biggs, Whitehead, Brown, Barley, Elliott, Horsford, 
Wrench, Moses, Marratt, Chase, Dixon, Trotman, Soper, Eich- 
ardson, and others ; but our limited space obliges us to con- 
clude this sketch with the following brief notices of the respec- 
tive stations occupied by the Society in this island. 

Scarborough is the head of the Circuit, and the place where 
the Superintendent Minister resides. The chapel is a sub- 
stantial and respectable edifice, built of stone and brick, with 
the residence of the Missionary above, on a second storey, with a 
commanding and delightful prospect. It was erected soon after 
the commencement of the Mission ; but such was the prosperity 
of the work in after years, that it became too small for the con- 
gregation. In 1842 it was enlarged by the addition of a wing 
to the front, under the direction of the Eev. James Bickford ; 
and it will now accommodate about six hundred persons. An 
excellent day school is in active operation, and has already been 
of great benefit to the town and neighbourhood. 



366 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

Motot St. George, sometimes called Elsineur, about six 
miles from Scarborough, is an important country station, and the 
place where the second Minister resides. A commodious chapel, 
built of wood, with a dwelling-house and several acres of land, 
at this place, were generously presented to the Society, in the 
year 1836, by Angus Melville, Esq. The buildings were com- 
pletely demolished by the hurricane of 1847 ; but they have 
been succeeded by more permanent and commodious erections, 
which occupy a situation not very easy of access, the roads 
being very bad in this locality. This station is also favoured 
with a day school. 

Mason Hall is also an interesting out-station, about four 
miles from the capital in another direction. Preaching was 
commenced here, and a chapel erected, by the Eev. John Wood, 
in 1838 ; and a society was formed by the Eev. George Eanyell 
in the following year. The prospect was very discouraging for 
sometime; but afterward a delightful change was manifested 
in the disposition of the people to hear the word, and there was 
a large in-gathering of precious souls into the church of Christ. 
The prosperity at this station was so rapid and remarkable, that 
it became necessary to enlarge the chapel repeatedly to accom- 
modate the crowds of people who nocked to hear the word of 
God. The first enlargement of the chapel was effected under 
the superintendency of the Eev. James Bickford, who on one 
evening received eighty candidates for membership. The 
second enlargement was, in fact, a re-erection ; for the chapel 
w r as removed and rebuilt on a larger scale by the Eev. Henry 
Hurd, on a lot of land generously presented to the Society by 
John Brynoe, Esq., the proprietor of Nutmeg Grove estate, and 
was secured to the Connexion by Mr. Bickford, previous to his 
leaving the station. 

Of late years the Missionaries have extended their labours to 
Courland, Englishman's Bay, Man-of-war Bay, and other long- 
neglected places, with great advantage to the people, who were 
previously in a most destitute and degraded condition. When 
Mr. Bickford first visited Englishman's Bay, there had never 
before been a Christian Minister there of any denomination. 

There are now in Tobago seven Wesley an chapds, two Mis- 



CHAP. VII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 367 

sionaries, nine hundred and twenty -seven church members, eight 
hundred and fifty -five scholars, and two thousand five hundred 
attendants on public worship. 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 

Appearance of Trinidad — The Bocas — Discovered by Columbus— Settled 
by Spaniards — Conquered by the English — Aspect of the Country — 
Soil and Climate — The Pitch Lake — Mud Volcanoes — Natural His- 
tory — Towns and Villages — Population — Religion and Morals — Wes- 
leyan Missions — Early Persecution — Extension of the Work — Emanci- 
pation — Centenary of Methodism — Missionaries raised up — Mission 
Stations — Port of Spain — Diego Martin — San Fernando — Woodford 
Dale — Couva — Claston's Bay. 

It was on Saturday, the 3rd of February, 1837, that I first 
saw the island of Trinidad, as I stood upon the deck of a 
brigantine by which we had obtained a passage from Grenada. 
The appearance of the northern coast is rugged and wild in the 
extreme. Above a rocky beach, washed by the foaming billows 
of the ocean, may be seen a range of lofty mountains, covered 
with perpetual verdure, but without any signs of cultivation. 
On approaching the land, we beheld several small barren 
islands, towering to a considerable height above the level of the 
•sea, with narrow passages for ships between them. These are 
the Bocas, the largest of which is called Boco del Drago, "the 
Dragon's Mouth." The detached cliffs, which form so remark- 
able a feature in the scenery, are supposed by Humboldt to have 
once formed a rocky barrier which united the island of Trinidad 
to the continent of South America ; but which has been broken 
down, either by some mighty convulsion of nature, or by the 
powerful volume of water which is constantly discharged from 
the numerous mouths of the Orinoco. The current is still very 



36S PART H. — THE WEST INDIES. 

strong ; and the navigation is intricate and dangerous, especially 
if the breeze fails. We passed through the Bocas, however, in 
safety, the wind being in our favour ; and on enteritis the Gulf 
of Paria about sunset, we found the water as smooth as a mill- 
pond. On sailing up the coast, the prospect was still rather 
dreary, the sugar estates being chiefly situated in other parts of 
the island. On the left hand we could faintly distinguish a few 
small settlements inthe valleys and bays of the coast of Trinidad; 
andontherightwebeheldthe distantblue mountains of the Spanish 
Main. As the breeze entirely failed soon after dark, we were 
reluctantly obliged to come to anchor for the night. The cabin, 
and hold, and every place below, were very unpleasant, from the 
circumstance of the vessel having been employed to convey 
cattle from the Spanish Main ; we were therefore obliged to 
sleep on the deck, which was attended with some discomfort^ 
especially to my dear wife, who was the only female on board. 

The following day being the Sabbath, we were anxious to ge 
on shore ; and a light breeze having sprung up, we weighed 
anchor early, and soon came in sight of Port of Spain. The town 
being situated on level ground, does not appear to advantage 
from the water ; but from the extent of the shipping in the 
harbour, the importance of the colony is clearly indicated. We 
landed about ten o'clock a.m., and proceeded at once to the 
chapel in Hanover Street, where I assisted my respected pre- 
decessor, the Eev. George Beard, in administering the sacra- 
ment of the Lord's Supper, and preached in the evening to a 
large and attentive congregation. 

On the occasion of my first appointment to Trinidad. I spent 
three happy years ; and, after a short interval, I was requested 
to return, and take charge of the station again, which I did with 
great pleasure for two years longer, up to the time of our 
departure from the West Indies. From the information which 
I collected at different periods, and from my own observations 
during my protracted residence in the island, lam enabled to 
present the reader with the following brief historical sketch of 
this important colony, as preparatory to sorn? account of our 
missionary enterprise. 

The island of Trinidad is situated in latitude 10° 39' ncrthi 



CHAP. VII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 369 

and longitude 61° 34/ west. Tt was discovered by the enter- 
prising Columbus, in the year 14 9 S, when prosecuting his 
fourth voyage to the western world. It is stated by the his- 
torian Herrera, that, on being overtaken by a dreadful storm, 
which threatened the destruction of his fleet, the celebrated 
navigator made a vow, that if permitted to escape from his 
perilous position, the first land he discovered should be called 
by the sacred name of the Holy Trinity, It was not long after- 
wards that a sailor at the mast-head descried three points of 
land on the distant horizon, when the remarkable appearance, 
in connexion with his recent vow, induced Columbus to pro- 
nounce it Trinidad. 

This island was regarded by the Spaniards as a convenient 
place of rendezvous, from its contiguity to the continent of 
South America, and the mysterious Orinoco, which were dis- 
covered about the same time, and were supposed to be the 
regions of gold. The settlement first formed in Trinidad was 
never intended to be permanent : hence no attention was paid 
to the cultivation of the soil or the improvement of the country ; 
and it was quitted altogether as often as the Spanish adventurers 
thought proper to explore other regions. It was not until 
several years after its discovery, when the golden dream of the 
Orinoco had vanished, that a few straggling Spaniards returned 
to the island, and commenced the cultivation of cocoa, an 
article for which the place has ever since been so famous. 

When first discovered, Trinidad was inhabited by a race of 
Indians, mild and peaceful in their habits, and differing entirely. 
in their appearance, language, government, and religion, from 
the warlike Caribs of the Leeward Islands. But the compara- 
tively inoffensive character of the aborigines did not secure them 
from the cruelty and oppression of the strangers. The 
Spaniards treated these simple children of the forest with great 
rigour ; but before they were entirely exterminated, the country 
fell into other hands, and thus a remnant was spared, the 
descendants of whom still occupy settlements at Arima, and iv 
other parts of the island. 

The golden visions of the sixteenth century were not con- 
fined to Spain. Many persons in England heard of the wealth 



370 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

of the western world, and longed to share in the wonderful dis- 
coveries which were then being made. In 1599, Sir Walter 
Haleigh headed an expedition to explore the mighty Orinoco. 
On the 22nd of March, he arrived in Trinidad, attacked the 
feeble Spanish garrison, marched up to St. Joseph's, the capital, 
took the Governor prisoner, burned the town to ashes, and took 
possession of the island. Having liberated five Indian Chiefs, 
whom he found confined in a loathsome dungeon, and adopted 
other conciliatory measures, he gained the friendship of the 
natives, and proceeded up the Orinoco with two or three small 
vessels, leaving his largest ships at Trinidad. The adventurer 
had to encounter many difficulties in ascending the river ; and, 
as he pushed forward, he met with extensive swamps and 
impenetrable forests, but no mountains of gold. After pro- 
ceeding about four hundred miles into the interior, the expedi- 
tion returned with feelings of bitter disappointment, and aban- 
doned Trinidad ; and the indolent Spaniards were again left in 
quiet possession of the country. 

In 1676, the colony was attacked and conquered by the 
French ; but, instead of remaining to enjoy the fruit of their 
victory, they plundered the town, carried off every thing that 
was valuable, and left the island once more in possession of its 
former inhabitants. 

Nothing remarkable occurred after this, until 1797, when 
Trinidad was captured by the British, the fleet of Bear- Admiral 
Harvey acting in concert with the land forces under the com- 
mand of General Abercrombie.* By the Treaty of Amiens, in 
1802, the colony was ceded to the British crown in perpetuity, 
and has ever since remained in our possession. 

* The British, soldiers landed, on the 17th of February, at a sugar 
estate called Peru, about two miles from Port of Spain, and, being fatigued 
with the exertion of the morning, they commenced making grog on rather 
a large scale. They broke open the boiling-house and distillery, emptied 
two hogsheads of sugar and three puncheons of rum into a well, and then 
drew up the beverage by means of a rope attached to a bucket, for the 
refreshment of the whole company ! The conduct of the troops on this 
occasion was not very commendable, but the contrary, especially when 
regarded from a teetotal point of view. It is stated, however, that on the 
whole the soldiers were very moderate and orderly in their conduct on 
taking possession of Trinidad. 



CHAP. VII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 371 

The government of the colony was confided to Sir Thomas 
Picton, a man of persevering energy, and peculiarly adapted for 
his important office, although much persecuted in the course of 
his public career. On a change of ministry taking place in the 
British Cabinet, the colony was placed under the government of 
three Commissioners ; but the arrangement resulted in nothing 
but discord. Sir T. Hislop was next appointed as Governor, 
who, in 1811, was succeeded by Major-General W. Monro. 
The last-named gentleman had only been in office two years 
when he was succeeded by Sir Ealph Woodford, to whom the 
island is deeply indebted for the wisdom and energy with 
which he laboured to promote its welfare. 

Trom the first establishment of the British government in 
Trinidad, a gradual improvement was visible in the colony ; but, 
on the appointment of Governor Woodford, the progress was 
still more rapid. The colony received a large accession of 
European settlers, thousands of Negro slaves were brought from 
the Leeward Islands, large tracts of land were sold by Govern- 
ment, the cultivation of the ground was extended ; and the 
■whole country exhibited a scene of activity and advancement, 
such as had never before been witnessed. An impulse was thus 
given to agriculture and commerce, the effects of wdiich have 
extended down to the present time. 

The island of Trinidad is about eighty miles long and thirty 
broad ; and is separated from the continent of South America 
by the Straits of Paria, the waters of which are generally so 
•smooth that they are navigated by native canoes with perfect 
safety. The aspect of the country varies considerably, exhibit- 
ing to the view in some places mountains of considerable alti- 
tude, and in others extensive tracts of land with a gently 
undulating surface. The cultivation of the ground has been 
carried on to a considerable extent in the Naparimas, Cara- 
piachaima, and other districts ; but there are thousands of acres 
of excellent land, which still remain in nature's wildness, 
covered with extensive forests of the finest timber, where the 
sound of the woodman's axe has never yet been heard. 

The soil is peculiarly rich and fertile, and well adapted for 
the growth of every kind of tropical produce. Sugar, rum, 

2 b 2 



372 PAET IT. — THE WEST INDIES. 

and cocoa are, however, the staple articles of export. From 
the low, swampy nature of the land in some places, and from 
the extensive impenetrable forests which still remain in others, 
the climate is not considered so healthy as that of the smaller 
West Indian islands. Trinidad is situated beyond the range of 
the desolating- hurricanes which have so frequently laid waste 
the neighbouring* colonies. Severe shocks of earthquake have, 
however, been felt at different times ; but no great damage has 
hitherto been done by them. 

The most remarkable natural curiosity in Trinidad is the 
Pitch Lake, which is situated at La Brea, about thirty miles 
from Port of Spain. The atmosphere is impregnated with a 
strong bituminous odour, which is perceptible at a distance of 
several miles, and large black masses of asphaltum, having the 
appearance of rocks, are seen on the shore. As you near the 
point, you see the land covered with a dense forest, save in 
one place bordering on the sea-shore : this is the lake or 
lagoon of pitch, the surface of which can scarcely be seen 
from the gulf. On landing, a respectable little village pre- 
sents itself to the view ; and here and there thick layers of 
asphaltum overspread the surface of the soil. After walking 
about half a mile you meet with several palm-thatched houses, 
beyond which you behold the mysterious lake of pitch, about a 
mile and a half in circumference, and nearly surrounded with 
forest trees and jungle. The scene is stamped with a strange, 
sombre aspect, which language cannot describe. The greater 
portion of the lake consists of solid masses of asphaltum, inter- 
sected by numerous channels, filled with dark-coloured water. 
In the dry season you may step over most of these channels - r 
but before you have proceeded far, you come to a part of the 
lagoon where a mass of liquid pitch, covering a space of about 
three acres, is constantly bubbling up. so as to give motion to all 
around. The cottages which stand on the verge of the lake are 
frequently found to alter their position; and, being built of 
wood, they sometimes hang over in one direction and sometimes 
in another. Several cargoes of the asphaltum have been brought 
to England with a view to apply it to some useful purpose. It 
has been found on trial to be too dense for the general purposes 



CHAP. VII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 373 

for which Norway pitch and tar are imported ; but it has been 
employed with advantage as fuel, and in the formation of pave- 
ments, and will probably one day become a more general article 
of export. 

Like most of the other West Indian islands, Trinidad bears 
evident marks of volcanic eruptions : indeed, there are now two 
submarine volcanoes in the neighbourhood, said to be constantly 
in action : one to the south of La Brea, and the other in the 
Bay of Myaro. These often bubble and throw up bitumen ; 
.and sometimes even smoke and fire have been seen at night 
bursting through the water. There are also a number of 
remarkable mud volcanoes in different parts of the country ; 
and, although several miles from the sea, they are supposed, 
from the matter which they frequently discharge, to have a 
connexion with the ocean. 

This island is peculiarly rich in natural history. Of animals 
we have the deer, monkey, sloth, ant-bear, armadillo, mangrove- 
dog, tiger-cat, manacoo, porcupine, lapo, agoutie, and musk-hog. 
Among the birds we may notice the vulture, pelican, red 
flamingo, horned screamer, wild turkey, quail, pigeon, and 
parrots and humming-birds in great variety. Bep tiles and 
insects are also numerous. We have the lizard, iguano, turtle, 
tortoise, and serpents of various kinds ; also wasps, fire-flies, 
and moths in almost endless variety. The vegetable kingdom 
likewise furnishes numerous specimens in every department, and 
would amply repay the researches of the botanist. 

Although the colony is of comparatively modern date, it can 
boast of a number of considerable towns and villages. Port of 
Spain, the present capital, is a beautiful town, and in some 
respects surpasses almost every other in the West Indies. 
The streets are laid out at right angles, and so straight that in 
some places you may see nearly a mile before you. It is also 
furnished with convenient promenades, shaded by lofty trees, 
which serve to screen the passengers from the fiery rays of a 
tropical sun. Brunswick Square and Marine Square are very 
tastefully laid out. Since the destructive fire of 1808, which 
reduced the town to ashes, the houses have been erected in a 
very substantial manner, and Port of Spain now contains some 



374 



paet ii. — t::i west qtdies. 






! 



excellent buildings. Tue government offices, Roman Catholic 
church, English church. Scotch church, and Wcsl 
are substantial and elegant structures, and, like most c: the 
first-class houses in the town, are built of stone. It is. ... :: - e- 
over, a place of considerable commerce ; and an extensive trade 
is earned on, not only with the more remote parts of the 
island, but also with the Spanish Main icross the Gulf of Paria. 
St. Ann's, the residence :: the Governor, about a mile from the 
town, is a delightful country mansion, before which lies Victoria 
Park, as level as a bowling-green, and more than a mile 
in circumference. There are some beautiful drives in the 
neighbourhood, and altogether i: is pic -ant place of 
residence. The population of Port :: Spain may be estimated 
at twenty thousand. 

The town which ranks next tc the rapital in importance is 
San Fernando. It is situated on the casti i s:, about thirty 

miles from the Port of Spain, and is accessible only by water, 
the intervening country being intersected by immense a w amps 
and impenetrable jungle. A steamer plies daily between the 
two places, which is a great convenience to the inhabitants^ 
The town stands on the side :: a hill, and is seen to adTantage 
from the deck of a vess;i m entering the harbour. The houses 
are generally built :: wood, and neatly painted. The popula- 
tion, which has been rapidly increasing of late years, may now 
amount to ten thousand. St. Joseph's was the capital of the 
colony in ancient times, under the Spanish G-OYemment ; but it 
has now dwindled to a mere village. It is situated about eight 
miles from Port of Spain, directly inland. Arima is another 
ancient village, about ten miles further on the same road. 
Besides :hese sever;.! sir: a!! viiir.ges ;.:::! hamlets Lave sr i.e.. up 
in various parts of the country si nee the rime of emancipation; 
and every estate has its village of labourers' cottages,, the same 
as in the other West India colonies. 

The population of the whole island may now be reckonc . af 
seventy thousand. This large number c: inhabitant c::ut: rises 
British. French. Spanish, Portuguese,. Indians, C;:iirs ; an:! 
Africans and their descendants. In this colony vre meet with 
persons of various languages, ana :•: alm:st every shade 01 



CHAP. VII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 375 

complexion. The most numerous class, however, is that which 
is composed of persons of African descent. 

The prevailing religion is Eoman Catholicism ; and about 
three-fourths of the population profess the Romish faith from 
the circumstance of their having been baptized into it in their 
infancy, although, in many instances, perfectly ignorant of its 
principles and dogmas. Port of Spain has its Bishop, cathedral, 
and convent; and about thirty Priests are located in different 
parts of the country. Of late years, however, Protestantism 
has exerted a mighty influence, and the change which is taking 
place in the moral and social aspect of society is of the most 
pleasing character. In this field of evangelical labour there 
have recently been an increased number of Clergymen of the 
Church of England, of various phases of sentiment. The 
Scotch Church and the Baptists have both established Missions 
in Port of Spain, and in some country places, which have been 
made very useful ; but we must now proceed to give a few 
particulars of the rise and progress of Wesleyan Missions, 
which were the first evangelical Protestant institutions planted 
in this colony. 

At the beginning of the present century, when the British 
government became permanently established in the island, the 
moral degradation of the inhabitants was, if possible, greater 
than that of the other West India colonies. Hence it formed 
a suitable field for missionary labour, which was brought to 
bear upon it, in the order of Divine Providence, in a manner 
quite unexpected. 

In his History of the West Indies, Dr. Coke had announced 
the intention of the Wesleyan Missionary Society to commence 
a Mission in Trinidad, so soon as circumstances should appear 
favourable to the undertaking ; but such were the unsettled 
state of the colony, and the prevailing influence of Romanism, 
that nothing could be done for several years. In IS 09, how- 
ever, the Rev. T. Talboys, one of the Society's Missionaries in 
St. Yincent's, came to the island on private business, and was 
pleased to find ten or twelve pious Wesleyans from the Leeward 
Islands, who earnestly entreated him to exercise his ministry 
among them. According to their request he preached a few 



376 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

times in private houses ; numbers flocked to hear the word, and 
the prospect of good became peculiarly encouraging. Under 
these circumstances the Missionary felt disposed to protract his 
stay a little longer ; and indulged the hope that the way might 
open for the permanent establishment of a Mission among a 
people who were previously so destitute of the means of religious 
instruction, and who now heard the word with gladness. To 
this proposed arrangement the Missionary Committee in London 
readily assented, on being made acquainted with all the circum- 
stances of the case ; and Mr. Talboys commenced a regular 
course of religious services, which were evidently crowned with 
the Divine blessing. 

The Mission had not been long commenced, however, when 
a spirit of bitter persecution was excited against the Missionary 
and his people. There was a system of wickedness at that 
time prevalent in the island which the faithful preaching of the 
Gospel threatened to destroy ; and the hearts of the guilty 
parties were moved at once to jealousy and rage. The enemies 
of the cross at first attempted to interrupt the Minister in the 
performance of his public duty; but, on finding hundreds of 
the people warmly attached to his cause, they were deterred 
from their malicious purpose. When one plan failed, they tried 
another. After some time they induced the authorities to 
require the Missionary to serve in the ranks of the militia. In 
vain he pleaded his sacred profession, which, by the law of the 
island, exempted him from this duty. The man of God 
attempted to retire for a short time to the residence of Charles 
Goin, Esq.,* of Mauxico Estate, in the quarter of Arima; but 

* Not only in this instance, bnt on several other occasions. Mr. Goin 
showed his regard for the canse of Missions. When the Missionaries were 
hard pressed for money on behalf of the chapel in Port of Spain, he mort- 
gaged his estate to raise the necessary funds, promptly to meet the obliga- 
tion, that the building might not be sold ; and ultimately gave the amount 
thus advanced, for which he received the thanks of the Committee in 
London, conveyed in the handwriting of the late Rev. Richard Watson, 
who was one of the General Secretaries at the time, and whose letter Mr. 
Goin showed me with evident pleasure the first time I visited his estate to 
preach to his people. During his life-time he was a substantial supporter 
of the work of God, generously contributing £25 a year to the Mission 



CHAP VII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 377 

bis enemies pursued him thither, took him into custody on the 
Lord's Day, marched him to Port of Spain, and shut him up 
in prison. When the Governor became better informed on the 
subject, he immediately caused Mr. Talboys to be released from 
his confinement ; and from that time he proceeded in his work 
without further molestation, being favoured with cheering 
tokens of the Divine presence and blessing. Before he had 
been in the island twelve months, Mr. Talboys was enabled to 
report to Dr. Coke the erection of a little chapel, and the 
organization of a Christian church of nearly a hundred mem- 
bers, some of whom had been brought to God by his instru- 
mentality, whilst others had known something of the power of 
the Gospel in the islands from which they had recently come. 

After labouring for about three years in Trinidad with great 
acceptance and success, — the chapel in Port of Spain having been 
enlarged in the mean time, to accommodate the increasing con- 
gregation, and the work having been extended to several 
estates in the country, — Mr. Talboys was succeeded by the Rev. 
Messrs. Blackburn and Poole, whose labours were soon inter- 
rupted by the gathering of a dark cloud over the infant Mission, 
which threatened its entire destruction. 

The Governor for the time being thought proper to require 
all Christian teachers to sign a certain document, binding them 
to abstain from the announcement of those Scripture doctrines 
which were thought to interfere with Eoman Catholicism, then 
the dominant religion in the colony. This the Wesleyan Mis- 
sionaries conscientiously refused to do ; and the consequence 
was that the Governor caused the chapel to be shut up, and the 
people were deprived of the public means of grace. An appeal 
was now made by the Society at home to the King of England; 
-and no sooner was his Britannic Majesty made acquainted with 
these restrictive and persecuting measures than he sent out 
instructions to the Governor of Trinidad that every hindrance 
should be removed, and that the Missionaries should be allowed 
to preach the Gospel without any restrictions whatever. The 

fund, besides aiding the cause in various other ways. He died in peace 
in Trinidad, on the ?th of April, 1848, and left a legacy of upwards of 
£1,500 to the "Wesleyan Missionary Society. 



373 PAUT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

chapel was now re-opened, after Having been closed twelve- 
months ; and the remnant of the scattered flock assembled to 
worship God with grateful hearts, for the merciful deliverance 
which had been wrought out for them. 

During this gloomy night of persecution, when the preaching 
of the Missionaries was prohibited in Trinidad, the members of 
the Society used to assemble in private houses, and other retired 
places, for the purpose of mutual fellowship, prayer, and ex- 
hortation. In these religious meetings they frequently realized 
the presence and blessing of the great Head of the Church ;• 
and they were thus enabled patiently to await the return of 
better days. 

In our historical sketches we have repeatedly had occasion to 
notice a retributive Providence in the fate of those who dared to 
take a prominent part in opposing the progress of the Gospel. In 
no place was this more remarkable than in the island of Trinidad. 
Several of the principal actors in the early persecution of the 
Missionaries came to an untimely end. One met with a watery 
grave, under circumstances of peculiar horror; another was taken 

I to Europe a perfect maniac, reason having fled from him for ever;: 

while a third passed out of time into eternity in a tit of raging- 
madness, apparently forsaken of God and of all hope. These 
facts teach an admonitory lesson to all who are disposed to 
indulge in a sneering persecuting spirit. 

In the year 1820, the Rev. S. P. TVoolley was appointed to 
labour in this colony ; and all outward opposition to the preach- 
ing of the Gospel having ceased, a pleasing measure of success 
was realized. On the :2nd of March, 18 '2 6, the foundation 
stone of a commodious new chapel was laid by Henry Gloster, 
Esq., Chief Protector of Slaves ; and the Mission took a position- 
in the estimation of the public, which, by the favour of a kind 
and gracious Providence, it has ever since maintained. "When 
the new chapel was completed, the number of those who 
attended the public services was increased; and an additional- 
Missionary having been appointed to the station, Tacarigua, 
Carapiachaima, and other places in the country, were visited, 
for the purpose of promoting the religious instruction of the 
slave population ; but little fruit was realized in these places.. 



CHAP. VII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 379 

Slavery here, as in other parts of the West Indies, formed the 
principal barrier to the preaching of the Gospel ; and in subse- 
quent years the Missionaries confined their labours chiefly to 
the town and its vicinity. As the period of emancipation 
approached, prejudice in a measure subsided ; and renewed 
efforts were made to plant the Gospel in the more remote parts 
of the island. The Rev. Messrs. Edmondson, Stephenson, 
Fletcher, Fidler, Wood, and Beard successively laboured in 
Port of Spain, with some degree of success, notwithstanding the 
prevalence of Popish error and superstition. 

On my first appointment to Trinidad, in the year 1838, I 
found that the Missionary stationed in Port of Spain had con- 
fined his labours to the town for several years past. Feeling 
impressed with the conviction that the time was come when we 
might, with a fair prospect of success, extend our labours to 
the country districts, I made arrangements with the Society 
accordingly, and was instructed to procure a horse, and to visit 
some promising spheres of labour, which appeared to be accessi- 
ble. Whilst I was pursuing my humble labours in that part of 
the island which had the capital for its centre, my esteemed 
colleagues, the Eev. Messrs. Eanyell, Bickford, and Hurd, in 
succession, were itinerating with untiring zeal and earnestness 
in Naparina and Carapiachaima. We were so circumstanced by 
distance, and the difficulties connected with travelling, that we 
could only visit each other, and effect an interchange of appoint- 
ments, about once a quarter. When we were favoured to meet 
and spend a day or two together, it was a season of hallowed 
enjoyment to all parties ; for we lived and laboured together as 
brethren in Christ, our hearts being united by stronger ties 
than those of earthly friendship. The results of our united 
efforts will best appear when the respective stations pass under 
review. In the mean time, a few interesting incidents, which 
occurred in connexion with my own department of the work, 
may be briefly noticed. 

The emancipation of the poor slaves, inaugurated by the appren- 
ticeship system in 1834, during my residence in Demerara, was 
consummated in 1838, when I was labouring in Trinidad. All 
the other West India colonies had agreed to remit the remain- 









380 PART IT. THE WEST INDIES. 

ing two years of the apprenticeship, during which the field 
labourers were to serve their respective masters ; but Trinidad 
still held back, apparently unwilling to make the sacrifice. 
Apprehensive of the consequences, if our people should be kept 
longer in bondage, whilst all the rest were free, I felt it to be 
my duty to make a respectful, but very plain and strong, repre- 
sentation on the subject to His Excellency the Governor, Sir 
G. E. Hill. I have reason to believe that this had a good 
effect, for in the eleventh hour the Council of Trinidad passed a 
similar resolution to those which had been adopted in the other 
West India colonies long before, as will be seen from the follow- 
ing communication, which I received from His Excellency, 
dated " Government House, July 27th, 1838 :" — " The measure 
adopted on the 25th instant by Her Majesty's Council of Govern- 
ment, for the total and final abrogation of every vestige of 
slavery throughout the colony of Trinidad, demands the grateful 
acknowledgment of this Christian community to Almighty God, 
for inspiring the conviction which has led to this important 
result. I therefore submit to you my opinion, and request that 
Divine Service should be performed in your place of worship on 
the 1st of next month. I have the honour to be, &c 3 G. F. 
Hill. 5 ' 

A similar communication having been made to every other 
Christian Minister, the 1st of August was observed as a day of 
general thanksgiving, and the respective places of worship were 
crowded with attentive and grateful worshippers. On looking 
out at the window early in the morning, I saw a poor old 
woman sitting on the chapel steps. I went out and inquired 
what had brought her to chapel so early. She replied, " my 
dear Massa Minister, dey been sell me long time ago, far away 
in de country, and me neber see me sweet chapel for ten years ; 
so soon as me free a go come, me run, and me run, and me 
neber stop till me come to me sweet chapel; and now me want 
for sit here till de doors go open for prayers ! " We felt much, 
affected by this little incident ; for poor old Sarah had walked 
from Careenage, a distance of fourteen miles, since midnight. 
After being asked into the kitchen to take some refreshment, the 
poor old woman attended the services of the sanctuary ; and. 



CHAP. VII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 3S1 

with hundreds more, presented her sincere thanksgivings to 
Almighty God for having spared them to see the day of freedom. 

From the representations made by old Sarah, it appeared 
that many of her acquaintances at Careenage would be glad to 
hear the Gospel, if they had the opportunity of doing so. I 
therefore resolved to make a visit of observation, to see what 
could be done for a district totally destitute of the means of 
religious instruction. I started off on horseback, with my 
hammock fixed to the saddle behind. The road, which was 
very rugged, led along the beach, and was only passable at low 
water. On reaching the place I found it situated in a beautiful 
valley, about fourteen miles from Port of Spain. Having 
obtained the use of an unoccupied and dilapidated house, I 
preached in the evening to a large congregation, consisting of 
persons as ignorant and demoralized as can possibly be 
imagined, many of whom had never heard a Gospel sermon 
before. When I was preparing to sling my hammock in the 
old dilapidated house, without doors or windows, the people 
earnestly persuaded me not to do so, assuring me that the 
vampire bats would devour me before morning. As they offered 
to find me a lodging in a Negro hut, I accepted of their offer, 
and was afterwards glad that I had clone so ; for I found in the 
morning that my poor horse had been severely bitten during 
the night by the ferocious bats, and the blood had flowed down 
to the ground. Amid many difficulties I persevered in visiting 
this place. We fitted up a temporary chapel, and the word 
preached was attended with a gracious influence. In a short 
time we had a prosperous Society of eighteen members, many 
of whom gave evidence of a change of heart. After my 
departure this promising station was relinquished, in conse- 
quence of its distance from the town, and the difficulty of 
supplying it with preaching ; but I cherish the hope that our 
humble labours will appear to have been not in vain in the 
Lord. 

We were not so successful in our efforts to establish an out 
station at St. Joseph's, the former capital of the colony, and 
one of the strongholds of Roman Catholicism. I am free to 
confess that this was a signal failure, — the only one I ever 



PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

experienced doling the entire period t: my missionary labours. 
I hired a house, and opened a night-school, which was well 
attended whilst the lessons continued; but as soon as the 
attempt was made to sing, :: pray, or preach, the entire con- 
gregation fled as if the house were set on fire. They were 
excited to this strange conduct by the Priests, who stood at a 
distance, looking on with evident delight, having previously 
cursed as from the altar; and leclai 1 that it any of the people 
1 to attend mi preaching they should be excommunicated, 
and when they died they should be buried like dogs, Sec. After 
attending for some time to no purpose, we were obliged to give 
up the house, and relinquish our erforts. 

During the secon year of my missionary labours in Trinidad 
we celebrated the Centenary of Methodism; and in no part of 
our widely extended Connexion was there manifested more 
genuine gratitude and joy than on our respective stations in 
that island. Divine service was held in all our principal 
:1s on the 25th oi October, 1S39 : and both children and 
adults were treated with tea and cake. In Port : Spain I 
preached in the morning from Acts v. 33, 39 : "And now I 
say unto you. Eefrain from these men, and let them alone : for 
i: this counsel or this work be of men, it will come to nought; 
but if it be oi God, ye cannot overthrow it ; lest haply ye be 
found even to fight against God." In the evening I expounded 
the doctrines and discipline of Methodism. Our people also 
manifested a noble spirit oi liberality on the occasion: so that 
we were able to send a handsome amount of subscriptions to 
the parent fund, as well as to erect our own local Centenary 
monument, in the form of a school-house, as elsewhere noticed. 

One of our most useful and interesting departments of labour 
in Port of Spain was the religious instruction of the young. We 
not only used :ur utmost efovts to render cur day and Sabbath 
schools ezicieti: institutions for the training up of the rising 

ices, succeeded in formins 



Vmr 



generation. 
a Theologi 

this 1: eicuse of its 
In this 



ut tiere. as in ctner 



Class, or Mutual Improvement Society, for the 

rang men of cur congregation. I mention 

et bearing upon the missionary enterprise. 

:e we were favoured 



with fruit to our labours of 



CHAP. VII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 383 

the most pleasing character. Of six young men who pursued 
a course of study, from week to week, under my direction, for 
their general benefit, four became Preachers of the Gospel, three 
of whom were ultimately called to the full work of the Ministry, 
and were honoured to labour for many years as Christian Mis- 
sionaries in different parts of the world. In reference to these 
a few particulars may now be given. 

The Eev. William Cleaver, a native of Trinidad, was 
one of our little company. Although of a respectable family, 
and well educated, he had grown up an entire stranger to 
experimental and practical religion. "Whilst very young, he left 
home to live on a small cocoa estate, which was placed under 
his care in the quarter of Arirna. The first serious impressions 
which were made upon his mind appear to have been occasioned 
by the perusal of a Bible and Prayer Book, sent to him by his 
dying father. Soon after this he lost a dear brother, whom I 
attended in his last illness, and who was, through mercy, 
brought to a saving knowledge of Christ. These repeated 
bereavements were sanctified and blessed to the spiritual good 
of the whole family, every member of which was gathered into 
the fold of the Eedeemer. I shall never forget with what sub- 
mission to the will of God, and with what Christian meekness, 
-the aged mother used to receive my pastoral visits, and with 
what pleasure she came up to the house of God when she was 
able to do so. Her daughter Margaret was brought in early 
life to love the Saviour, and was thus prepared to join her 
father and her brother in a better world, to which honour she 
was soon after called. Charles w T as savingly converted to God, 
and became a useful Local Preacher. On hearing of what was 
going on at home, William came to Port of Spain, and attended 
the means of grace with the rest of the family. The very first 
service seems to have produced a deep and lasting impression 
upon his mind. As he entered the chapel, I was giving out the 
hymn beginning, " Would Jesus have the sinner die ? " As he 
afterwards testified, the words of the hymn went like a dagger 
to his heart, whilst the discourse which followed presented the 
truth to his mind in an entirely new light. He returned home 
more deeply convinced of sin than he had ever been before. 




354 



PAKT II. — TEI WEST INDIES. 



He irept, an I prayed, and songht the Lord, till he found I 
to the joy of his soul. He became a Sabbath-school Teacher, 
an Extorter, and a Local Preacher. He joined our Theol _ 
Class, pursued course t: study uDder my direction; and such 
was his proficiT Christian knowledge and experience that 

within two years iron: the time of his conversion he stood 
before the District ] L rting an accepted candidate for the work of 
the ministry. II ; was received by the Conference of 1 ; 43 a 

audi: was ray gratifying :: me to find that, on my leavings 
the counti Is, he was considered qualified 

tc take my place, : pointed accordingly to the charge 

of our important Mission in his native isle. Nearly twenty 
years have passed away since then, during which period Mr. 

Cleave: has laboured faithfully as i:nary in the St. 

Vincent's and Demerara I - ind has been respected and 

beloved on all the stations which he has occupied. 

Tee Li v. Joshua Jokdajt, although not a native of 
lei L ; ; arrival in the island. 

I was mnch impressed with his youthful zeal and earnest piety ; 
and I soon found him an appropriate sphere of labour, not only 
in the Sabbath school, but alsc as :eacher of the Mission day 
school. He also enefit of the Theological Class, 

and his profiting appeared :: all. From the fulness of his 
heart he was ever ready to proclaim to his fellow men the truth 
as it is in Jesus, both as a Class Leader and Local Preacher. 
Some time after my removal from the station he was called to 
the higher wori: :t the Christian ministry in which bt has been 
usefully engaged for many years, both in the Indies and 

in British North America. 

Lie Ret. GrEMLEY was originally connected with 

the British army, and on my first acquaintance with him he 



was a sprightly juvenile soldier. Touns: Gei 



: :.'.. ^r"::L 



of his comrades :: S:. James's LerreiL?. nseii :: e::eeL iter 
chapel in Port of Spain; and. by the blessing of God upon 
the word preached, he and two or three others were brought to 
a saving knowledge ::' the truth. Beinr struck with his 
Dative talent, I invited him to jom our Mutual Im- 
provement Society: and he s::n LsthtgteLhe:; himself in the 



CHAP. YII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 3S5 

composition of his essays, as well as in his devotional exercises. 
On one occasion, when prostrated by fever, I sent for Brother 
Gamley to conduct the Sabbath evening service for me ; and 
with considerable diffidence he ascended the desk in his regi- 
mentals, for he could not be prevailed upon to go up into the 
pulpit. He was much blessed, and preached an excellent 
sermon. He has often been heard to say that the whole of his 
future career hinged upon the effort of that evening. Being 
encouraged, he went on, and the Lord was with him. On 
leaving Trinidad I helped him to lit up such a portable little 
library as a soldier is permitted to carry, and he continued his 
studies with success. On reaching Canada he obtained his 
discharge from the army, and entered more fully into the service 
of the King of kings and Lord of lords. He became a Mission 
school teacher, a candidate for the ministry, was ultimately 
ordained to the full work, and has for many years been a most 
acceptable and useful Minister, occupying the important posts 
of Chairman of a District and Secretary of the Canadian Con- 
ference. 

Being favoured with the assistance of the excellent young 
men of whom honourable mention has just been made, and 
with that of some others who were raised up as the fruit of 
missionary labour on this station, the work of the Mission was 
prosecuted with vigour and success. An institution, called the 
" Samaritan Society," for the relief of the sick and poor, was 
organized, and effectively worked, mainly by their activity and 
zeal ; and prayer-meetings were established in various parts of 
the town. At one time seven of these meetings were held 
weekly, with the most cheering results; and the good work 
became consolidated and built up in all its departments, as will 
appear from a brief survey of the principal stations occupied 
by our Society in different parts of the island. 

Port of Spain, the capital of the colony, is the place where 
the Superintendent Minister resides ; and he has to preach 
almost constantly to the same people, the interchanges with his 
colleagues being both difficult and expensive. We have com- 
pact and convenient Mission premises in Hanover Street, con- 
sisting of a commodious chapel, Mission-House, and school- 

c c 



386 PAUT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

room. The cliapel was built in the year 1825, under the 
direction of the Rev. P. S. Woolley, at a cost of about £3,000 ; 
and in 1837, the congregation having considerably increased, 
a gallery was added by the Rev. George Beard ; so it will now 
seat about seven hundred persons. The building was thoroughly 
repaired and improved by the late Rev. John Black well, in 
1842; and it is now a neat and respectable place of worship. 
The congregations have generally been large and attentive, and 
I know not that I ever ministered with greater comfort, and 
more of heavenly unction, than in this hallowed sanctuary. It 
is delightful to hear that of late years the attendance has so far 
Increased under the able ministry of Dr. Horsford and others, 
who have successively occupied the station, that there is 
scarcely room to accommodate all who wish to hear the word of 
life. The number of church members connected with the 
station in town is about three hundred. On my first appoint- 
ment to this station in 1838, the Society was paying at the 
rate of £75 rent per annum for a very indifferent house, in 
which the Missionary resided. Regarding this as an extra- 
vagant expenditure, I made an arrangement with the District 
Meeting and Missionary Committee for the erection of a small 
out convenient Mission-House on a suitable site adjoining the 
chapel, pledging myself that the entire outlay should be met in 
a few years by the money saved in house-rent. In a few months 
the building was completed, and we removed into it, thankful 
for the enjoyment of a comfortable residence, and rejoicing in 
the thought that henceforth a serious item of expense would be 
saved to the funds of the Mission. 

Previous to the era of emancipation, little or nothing had been 
done towards establishing Wesleyan day schools in Trinidad. 
We therefore resolved to commemorate the centenary of Me- 
thodism, in 1839, by the erection of a school-house, on the 
Mission premises in Port of Spain. We held a preliminary 
meeting, at which a fine spirit of Christian zeal and liberality 
was displayed. Some contributed money, and others gave 
labour. We set to work in good earnest, and in a few months 
the building was completed, at a cost of £135, the whole of 
which was raised among a poor but pious people. My esteemed 



CHAP. YII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 337 

colleague, the Eev. James Bickford, entered heartily into this 
work ; and he and his people at Couva rendered substantial aid 
by their zeal and liberality. I immediately engaged a respect - 
ble young man as a teacher, and the day school was opened 
under circumstances of great promise. At first we knew not 
where we should obtain the means of paying the teacher's 
salary, and of defraying other expenses ; but Divine Providence 
opened the way before us, and raised up friends where we least 
expected them. The school continued to prosper from year to 
year ; and, under the able teaching of Messrs. Cleaver, Jordan, 
and Lawrance in succession, it became a very important educa- 
tional establishment, being generally regarded as the best 
common school in the island. The last public examination 
which was held previous to my leaving the colony, was of a 
very pleasing character, and would have delighted the friends 
of Missions, could they have witnessed it. The exercises took 
an extensive range in general history, geography, and chronology, 
with a more minute examination on the histories of England 
and Trinidad. Although all the scholars were black or coloured 
children, they evinced an astonishing degree of intelligence. In 
answer to the questions proposed, they gave the names of all 
the Kings and Queens who have reigned in England, with the 
principal events in each reign ; and the names and situation of 
the principal mountains, rivers, lakes, islands, and capes in tj|p 
world. They also showed a familiar acquaintance with other' 
branches of secular knowledge ; the specimens of reading, 
writing, and arithmetic were very creditable ; and their know- 
ledge of Scripture geography, history, and chronology, was 
still more remarkable ; and they proved themselves to be well 
versed in the doctrines and precepts of religion, as set forth in 
the Scriptures, catechisms, and hymns which they had learned, 
to an extent which I have never known surpassed. The 
exercises continued for more than five hours, the children sing- 
ing a number of beautiful pieces at intervals ; and the congrega- 
tion, which included some of the leading official gentlemen of 
the colony, appeared highly delighted with the proceedings. 
Lord Harris, the Governor, took a lively interest in this, as 
well as in other schools in the island, and not only visited them, 

2 c 2 



388 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

to see the mode of their working, but gave annual prizes for 
public competition, many of the highest of which were carried 
off by scholars from the Port of Spain Wesleyan Mission 
School. Since this auspicious commencement of our educa- 
tional work in Trinidad, the colonial Government has intro- 
duced a general system of secular education, which has seriously 
interfered with the interests of denominational schools; but 
whatever may be the course of political events in future in 
relation to this subject, we would gratefully recognise the good 
that has already been done by the day and Sabbath schools on 
this station. 

The Coolie Mission. At the time of emancipation a 
number of field labourers, possessed of superior abilities and a 
smattering of education, finding that they could improve their 
circumstances by a change of employment, laid aside the hoe 
and cutlass, and engaged themselves as overseers, shopkeepers, 
and clerks, in the towns and villages. These changes caused a 
lack of agricultural labourers, which the government endea- 
voured to supply by the introduction, from time to time, of 
many thousands of Indian Coolies, who brought with them all 
their superstitious and demoralizing habits. To counteract, as 
far as possible, the injurious effects of this very doubtful politi- 
cal measure, and to benefit the poor deluded heathens thus 
brought as strangers to a strange country, a Mission has been 
commenced for their benefit. With the first importation of 
Coolie labourers, which arrived whilst I was stationed in Trini- 
dad, the Missionaries in India kindly sent a supply of tracts in 
the native language of the people, which we distributed among 
them, and did our utmost to promote their temporal and spirit- 
ual well-being. These early efforts were followed by still more 
efficient arrangements made by Dr. Horsford, and other Mis- 
sionaries, for the benefit of these interesting strangers. An 
intelligent Coolie having been brought to a knowledge of the 
truth, and baptized by the honoured name of Samuel Shaftes- 
bury, is now usefully employed as a Catechist in the religious 
instruction of his fellow countrymen ; a number of whom have 
been savingly converted to God, and thirty-one have been united 
together in church fellowship. The results of this Mission have 



CHAP. VII. — THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 389 

.already been very encouraging ; and still greater good may be 
anticipated in time to come. 

Diego Martin is an important out-station situated in a 
fertile and romantic valley of that name, about eight miles from 
Port of Spain, from whence it is supplied with missionary 
labour. Several people having been brought from Tortola in 
the time of slavery, and located on some sugar estates in this 
valley, I paid them a visit soon after my arrival in Trinidad, in 
1838, and found them anxious to hear the Gospel. After 
preaching to them for some time in a native hut, we held a 
meeting to consider what measures could be adopted to obtain 
a suitable place of worship. Although the people were poor, 
they resolved to make a strenuous effort to build a little chapel. 
Some promised to go into the mountain and cut a number of 
posts ; others engaged to provide rafters ; and the women and 
children were to bring the sticks for wattling and the trash for 
thatching the roof of the building; while the planters gene- 
rously offered the loan of their carts and cattle to convey the 
heavy materials to the appointed place. Having obtained by 
purchase, at a moderate price, a suitable lot of land in the cen- 
tre of the valley and of the population, all hands set to work ; 
every Saturday — the labourer's own day — being devoted to these 
preparatory labours. When the building materials had been 
collected, and every thing was ready, I went out several weeks 
in succession to superintend the work ; and in a short time the 
sanctuary was completed, to the joy of all parties concerned. 
This was a humble edifice, but it often proved to be a Bethel, 
-and was frequently filled not only with attentive hearers, but 
with the presence and glory of God. The work of the Lord 
continued to prosper, and we soon had an interesting society of 
eighty members. Several years afterwards, when this native 
chapel had become much dilapidated, it was succeeded by a 
more substantial erection, under the superintendence of my 
worthy successor, the late Rev. John Blackwell. In this place 
the people still worship ; and a day school has also been esta- 
blished for the religious and secular instruction of the rising 
generation. 

San Fernando may be regarded as the station next in 



390 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

importance to Port of Spain. It is the place where the second 
Minister resides, and the centre of a large agricultural popula- 
tion. The introduction of the Gospel to this part of the island 
was attended with evident marks of Divine interposition worthy 
of record. So recently as 1834, there was not a Protestant 
Minister in the whole of this section of the country, the only 
two Clergymen in the island being employed in Port of Spain,, 
one as Eector of Trinity Church, and the other as Garrison 
Chaplain.* At that period, a second Wesleyan Missionary 
having been appointed to Trinidad, arrangements were made 
for the Eev. John Mann to reside at San Fernando, and to 
itinerate among the estates in Naparima, whilst his Superin- 
tendent continued his useful labours in Port of Spain. Mr. 
Mann was very laborious and successful as a Missionary pioneer 
in this moral wilderness. He found a number of people on 
Palmist, Dumfries, Jordan Hill, Woodford Dale, and other 
estates, who had been brought from the Leeward Islands, where 
they had heard our Missionaries preach, and were consequently 
more accessible to the truth than others who had been trained 
up in Popish or pagan darkness. Among these he commenced 1 
his labours ; and was much encouraged by the results which he 
was favoured to witness, — a considerable number being soon 
gathered into the fold of Christ. In the town of San Fernando* 
Divine service was conducted in the dwelling-house of Mr. John, 
Cox, until a building was purchased by the Missionaries, and 
converted into a chapel and Minister's residence. The place 
was but ill adapted for the purpose ; but, at a time when pre- 
judice ran high, it was regarded as quite providential to obtain 
possession of a place we could call our own. Mr. Mann was 
succeeded by the Eev. George Eanyell, who was animated by 
the same spirit of missionary zeal, and whose labours were 
owned of God in the conversion of many precious souls. On 
my appointment to the charge of the Trinidad Mission, I felt 
convinced that something more ought to be done for San Fer- 

* The religious necessities of Trinidad are much better provided for now. 
Besides an additional number of Clergymen, Episcopalian, Presbyterian, 
and Baptist Missionaries have entered the field : yet there is still room for, 
a larger number of evangelical labourers. 



CHAP. VII. THE ISLAND OF TEINIDAD. 391 

nando ; but the way did not open for some time afterwards, 
when Mr. Ranyell had been succeeded by the Rev. James Bick- 
ford. When circumstances seemed to favour a commencement, 
we made application to His Excellency Sir Henry M'LeOd, the 
Governor for the time being, and obtained a grant of a suitable 
piece of land on the side of the hill overlooking the town and 
harbour, where we afterwards erected a chapel and Mission- 
House, on the same plan and of the same dimensions as those in 
Port of Spain. The labour and responsibility connected with 
this undertaking were great ; but I was nobly aided by my 
esteemed colleagues, the Rev. Messrs. Ranyell, Bickford, and 
Hurd, who successively occupied the station during the years 
that this important enterprise was in progress. By a particular 
providence, we sold the old building for nearly three times the 
amount of its original cost, the value of property having 
rapidly risen in the interim : the contributions of the people were 
also very liberal ; so that we were enabled to complete this 
respectable missionary establishment without any aid from the 
Parent Society. Amid numerous difficulties, the cause of God 
has continued to advance at San Fernando ; and the establish- 
ment of a day school, in addition to one previously commenced 
on the Sabbath, has provided ample facilities for the education 
of the rising generation. 

Woodford Dale is an interesting out-station connected 
with San Fernando, and central to a number of populous estates. 
In 1S44 a piece of land was obtained, and a neat little chapel 
erected by the zealous efforts of the Rev. Messrs. Limmex and 
Brown. To supply this and other places in the Naparimas with 
preaching, the San Fernando Missionary has to travel over very 
bad roads in the rainy season ; but he is generally compensatec. 
for his toil by the devout attention of a loving people. A small 
day school has been established here, which has been the m^ans 
of communicating instruction to a number of children, who must 
otherwise have grown up in the grossest ignorance. 

Cotjva is the name given to a district or hamlet, rather than 
a village. The place where our Mission station is established, is 
in the centre of a dense population, about midway between 
Port of Spain and San Fernando, and about fifteen miles from 



392 PAKT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

each. Like most of the other places on this coast, it is accessible 
only by water from the capital ; but a steamer which plies daily 
in the Gulf of Paria ; gererally calls at New Bay for the con- 
venience of passengers. Mr. Mann had the honour of being the 
first Missionary who itinerated in this part of the island. He 
preached with considerable success on Felicity Hall, Exchange, 
Carolina, Milton, Cedar Hill, and other estates, where the people 
generally manifested an anxious desire to hear the Gospel. Mr. 
Eanyell was next appointed to labour in this locality, who, in 
connexion with his Superintendent, the Eev. George Beard, suc- 
ceeded in obtaining a respectable list of subscriptions towards 
the erection of a chapel and Mission-House on a piece of land 
kindly granted by Government for the purpose. This under- 
taking was commenced before my arrival in the island, and was 
completed during the first year of my appointment. The sub- 
scription list exhibits some splendid specimens of Christian 
liberality. One gentleman contributed £50, and several £20 
and £10 each ; so that, with a small grant from the Parent So- 
ciety, the buildings were soon completed, and the Mission placed 
on a stable and permanent footing. The chapel is on the ground- 
floor, and the residence of the Minister above. The station 
occupies a somewhat lonely situation on a savanna or plain, 
with no other house near to it. The people attend the chapel 
in considerable numbers, however, from the surrounding estates, 
on which the Missionary frequently preaches during the week ; 
and a day school is taught in the chapel by an efficient native 
teacher. From the low and swampy situation of the neighbour- 
hood, Couva is not by any means so favourable to health and 
comfort as some other stations, and I have some affecting remi- 
niscences of the circumstances connected with the affliction of 
my beloved colleague. Mr. Bickford, as also of the sickness of 
his successors, Messrs. Durrie and Heath. Of late years the 
station has been supplied by a native teacher, who has prose- 
cuted his work with comparative health and comfort. 

Claxton's Bay, about half-way between Couva and San 
Fernando, is comparatively a new village. Being at a convenient 
distance from Cedar Hill, and other estates, where we have a 
considerable number of members, it was considered desirable to 



CHAP. VII. — THE ISLAND OF TIMNIDAD. 393 

form a permanent establishment there. Accordingly a com- 
modious chapel was erected on a beautiful and commanding 
elevation, in the rear of the village, under the direction of the 
Kev. William Heath, in the year 1845. The public services 
are well attended ; and, as the population is rapidly increasing, 
this will no doubt become a still more important station. Tor 
several years an infant school w r as connected with this place, of a 
very interesting character. When the Missionary first visited 
Cedar Hill estate, among a hundred slaves, he found a few who 
were able to read ; the most intelligent of whom was a young 
woman named Yenetia Percival. She was among the first-fruits of 
missionary labour at this place, and appeared marked out by 
Divine Providence as an instrument of good to those around her. 
Having obtained her freedom, she was usefully employed in 
teaching the children on the estate, as well as in leading a Class, 
and other useful labours. On entering the chapel, a large portion 
of the congregation may be seen with Bibles and hymn-books in 
their hands, many of whom were indebted to Yenetia Percival in 
early life for their first instruction in the art of reading, as well as 
for religious counsel. Our infant schools at Cedar Hill and other 
places were largely indebted also to the kindness of members of 
the " Society of Friends" in England, connected with the 
" London Central Negroes' Priend Society," and other similar 
philanthropic institutions, who frequently made grants for their 
support, in consequence of the representations made to them 
through my dear friend, the late Philip Thompson, of AVood- 
bridge. 

In prosecuting our missionary labours in the country districts of 
Trinidad, we generally commenced our efforts among the people 
who had been brought from other islands. This plan appeared to 
be the most expedient, not only because we found these people 
more free from Popish superstition than the natives of the colony, 
but many of them had heard the Gospel from the lips of our 
Missionaries in the places from which they had been brought ; 
and were consequently more readily impressed with the truth 
when it was again proclaimed in their hearing. But our atten- 
tion was not confined to these. As God is no respecter of per- 
sons, so w r e delivered our message to all who came within the 



394 FAUT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

sphere of our influence ; and by the blessing of God we were 
favoured to see persons of all classes, — native Africans, Creoles, 
whites, coloured, Papists, and Protestants, — brought to a saving 
knowledge of the truth, many of whom we trust will be " our joy 
and the crown of our rejoicing in the day of the Lord." We 
have now, in connexion with our Trinidad Mission, six chapels, 
eight other preaching -places, two Missionaries, eight hundred and 
nine church members, two hundred and sixty scholars in the Mis- 
sion schools, and seventeen hundred attendants on public worship. 



CHAPTER Till. 

SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 

Missionary Toils and Exposure — Visit to America — Embarkation — 
St. Thomas' — Bermuda — Man-of- YVar Class Aleeting — Philadelphia— 
New York — General Conference — American Methodism— Second 
Shipwreck — Thunder Storm — Death of Boatman — Death Averted — 
Providential Deliverance — Retuex to England — Affecting Earewell 
— Safe Arrival — Y\'est India Question — Causes of Depression — 
— Suggestions' — Hopeful Enture. 

A residence within the tropics is far from disagreeable to 
those who are so circumstanced as to be able to indulge in the 
comforts and luxuries of life, without being liable to excessive 
toil, or frequent exposure to the elements of nature. Eut with 
the Christian Missionary it is somewhat different. To meet 
the spiritual wants of his people, he must, if possible, be at his- 
post of duty at the appointed time, regardless of the state of 
the weather ; and he has often to travel to his appointments 
through the burning heat of the sun ; and, on his return, he is- 
frequently exposed to the chilling dews of night. In crossing 
mountains and rivers, and in performing journeys by water in 
small open boats or canoes, he is often liable to severe wettings, 



CHAP. VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 395 

to say nothing of the fatigue involved in such undertakings, in 
trying climates. In addition to these things, which severely 
test his physical strength, the Missionary has often to go 
through an amount of ministerial labour, in countries where the 
word of God is scarce, which is perfectly astonishing, and to 
which the ordinary labours of a Minister at home bear no com- 
parison. In the West Indies it is not the mere preaching three 
or four times a day which is so trying. It is more especially 
the weight and length of the engagements, when two or three 
services succeed each other in rapid succession, as reading 
prayers, preaching, baptizing a score or two of children, giving 
tickets to half a dozen Classes, Lovefeast, or administering the 
sacrament of the Lord's Supper to a thousand members, 
occupying four or five hours, without intermission ; to say 
nothing of other pastoral labours, cares, and responsibilities, 
which often weigh down his spirits. These labours and exer- 
cises make an impression upon the most wiry and vigorous 
constitutions, after a number of years ; and, without the employ- 
ment of appropriate means, the Missionary is in danger of being 
brought down to rise no more, which has been the case with 
manv a faithful labourer. 



VISIT TO AMERICA. 

Early in 1844, after labouring in the West Indies for ten 
years, with but few interruptions from actual sickness, I experi- 
enced such a serious failure of health, as rendered it necessary 
either to quit the tropics entirely, or to take a voyage for a few 
weeks to a colder climate. Eeing ardently attached to the Mis- 
sion work, and to the dear brethren with whom I was asso- 
ciated in the St. Vincent's District, I decided on the latter 
expedient. My medical attendant recommended a voyage to 
North America; and, as I had relatives and friends in the 
United States, to whom a visit from me would be very agree- 
able, I resolved to act accordingly ; my dear wife nobly volun- 
teering to remain at home, and attend to our missionary estab- 
lishment and schools at Biabou, where we were stationed at the 



396 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

time, during my absence. A few particulars in reference to 
this voyage may be interesting to the reader. 

On Wednesday, the 10th of April, I embarked at Kingston, 
on board the steamer " Med way," bound for Bermuda. My 
fellow passengers, about thirty in number, were military and 
naval officers, merchants, planters, and private gentlemen. 
Among them was Mr. Van Buren, son of the Ex-President of 
the United States, and his amiable lady, to whom I was intro- 
duced, and whom I found very agreeable travelling companions. 
The " Medway " was a splendid vessel, two hundred and 
thirty feet long, and fitted up with every convenience. 

During the two following days we kept steaming along to the 
leeward of the Caribbee Islands ; and called to deliver the mails, 
and to receive and land passengers, at St. Lucia, Martinique, 
Dominica, Guadaloupe, Antigua, Montserrat, Xevis, St. Kitt's, 
and Tortola ; of some of these islands we had a fine view ; and, 
altogether, the passage was interesting and agreeable. I had 
the pleasure of meeting with Messrs. Tregellis and Jessup, 
Quaker Ministers, on a visit to the West Indies, whom I had 
previously seen and entertained at my house in St. Vincent's. 
I had also a brief interview with the Rev. J. Horsford, of 
Dominica, and my old friend, the Rev. J. Pilcher, who scarcely 
recognised me after ten years' labour within the tropics since 
we last saw each other. 

On Saturday, the 13th, we passed through a narrow channel 
among the Virgin Islands, and entered the spacious harbour of 
St. Thomas, when we had a fine view of the town and neigh- 
bourhood from the deck of the steamer. This being a free port 
for vessels of all nations, it is much resorted to ; and the town 
exhibits a degree of splendour and gaiety not seen in the British 
West India colonies. As our vessel was to remain at St. 
Thomas' for a day or two, we went on shore, and were much 
pleased with the appearance of the place. Having been intro- 
duced to a respectable Jewish merchant, I attended the syna- 
gogue in company .with him, and witnessed a grand religious 
ceremony, — the confirmation by the Rabbi of six young ladies ; 
after which he preached a sermon in English. I also called 
upon the Moravian Missionary, who received me courteously; 



CHAP. VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 397 

but regretted that be could not offer me his pulpit, in conse- 
quence of Wesleyan Missionaries being prohibited by the Danish 
authorities from preaching in this island, because of their sup- 
posed abolition principles. 

On Sunday morning I went on shore again in company with 
Mr. Dennis, a young man, a Wesleyan, who came on board at an 
earlv hour to introduce himself to me. In the forenoon we attended 
the Moravian chapel, where we found about a hundred persons 
assembled, and heard a plain practical sermon. At the close of the 
service my young friend introduced me to several pious persons 
who were formerly connected with our stations in the English 
islands. We next proceeded to the Dutch Reformed Church, 
where we heard a powerful and evangelical sermon from the 
Rev. Mr. Brett, an American Minister. During his preaching I 
felt that I was listening to a man of God ; and was not sorry 
when, at the close of the service, he sent a messenger, to 
invite me to an interview with him in the vestry. We had a 
very agreeable and profitable conversation ; and he made the 
same apology as the Moravian Minister had done, for not being 
able to offer me his pulpit. He invited me to visit his Sunday- 
school in the afternoon, which I did with great pleasure. I 
found about four hundred children receiving instruction. I then 
accompanied Mr. Dennis to the house of a pious lady, where I 
met several Wesley ans from the English islands ; and was much 
affected on hearing of the persecution which they had been called 
to pass through since they came here ; and of the entire prohi- 
bition of religious meetings among them. I gave them such ' 
exhortation and counsel as the time would allow, and com- 
mended them to God in prayer. This was indeed an interesting 
day in a foreign land. Soon after going on board the steamer 
in the evening, we weighed anchor, and proceeded on our 
voyage. 

As we advanced northwards, I enjoyed the bracing influence 
of the cool breeze, and my health rapidly improved. After we 
had been at sea five days without seeing land, we made Bermuda. 
As we steamed along the coast, we had a fine view of the country, 
and the pretty white houses built of freestone, with chimneys, 
which reminded me of happy England. We came to anchor about 



398 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

ten o'clock, p.m., off Ireland Island; and the next morning we 
went on shore, to view the fortifications and the prison-ships. 
We saw several convicts engaged on the public works ; and were 
politely conducted through the various departments of the 
establishments by one of the officers. On returning to the 
steamer, I found the Rev. W. H. Shenstone, the Wesleyan 
Minister stationed at Bermuda, and accompanied him to Hainil- 
ton, a distance of about four miles. 

On Sunday, the 21st, according to arrangement, I preached 
in the morning at Hamilton to a large congregation, about 
three-fourths of whom were whites, the remainder being blacks 
and persons of colour. The people heard with attention, and 
I was much blessed in preaching the word ; but I felt pained 
at the distinction which appeared to be made on the ground of 
complexion. In the afternoon, Mr. Shenstone drove me over 
to St. George's, where I preached in the evening to a crowded 
congregation. We returned to Hamilton about midnight, and 
the following day was spent in viewing the place and calling on 
a few friends. The people appeared to be hearty, lively, and 
hospitable, and forcibly reminded me of the Methodists in my 
own native Yorkshire. 

On Tuesday, Mr. Shenstone and I went on board H.M.S. 
" Illustrious, 55 a sailor having come on shore to request us to 
visit the vessel, for the purpose of renewing the quarterly 
tickets of a Class of Wesleyans composed entirely of man-of- 
war's men. On reaching the ship, we first inquired for the 
* Admiral, to obtain the necessary permission to go below ; but 
were sorry to find that he was on shore. We were politely 
received, however, by the officer in command, who informed us 
that, in about half-an-hour's time, when they had finished 
certain duties in which they were engaged, we should have free 
access to the men for the purpose which we mentioned. Having 
amused ourselves for some time by surveying this splendid ves- 
sel, containing nearly seven hundred persons, and seen the men 
perform various evolutions, during which the band was playing, 
we were conducted below by a man named Madgwick, the 
Leader of the Class. We continued to descend till we came to 
the store-room below the fourth deck, where the members held 



CHAP. VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 399 

their meetings. The men soon began to assemble to the num- 
ber of sixteen; with whom we held a most delightful religious 
service by the light of a lantern. The Christian experience of 
these pious sailors was scriptural, sound, and clear ; and they 
manifested a zeal and earnestness in the affairs of religion which 
was truly pleasing. We conversed with them individually and col- 
lectively ; and whilst we were engaged in prayer and praise, we 
realized the presence of Him who said, " Where two or three are 
•gathered together in My name, there am I in the midst of them. 53 
Having examined a certificate in the Class-book, given by the 
Hev. B. Poster, of Jamaica, who had last renewed their Society 
tickets, and entered ours to show to the Minister of the next 
port at which they might call, we commended the members of 
this little floating church to God, and ascended once more to 
the light of day. We were politely favoured with a passage on 
shore by Lieutenant Lindoff, who bore the most honourable 
testimony to the moral and religious character of the men whom 
we had visited : and who also entertained ns with varions 
interesting details of his adventnres in the South Seas, when on 
-a voyage to Erromanga to recover the remains of the martyred 
Missionary John Williams ; and when engaged in a fearful con- 
flict with the heathens of Tonga, in defence of the Christian 
natives, in which his Captain lost his life. We spent the even- 
ing with a few friends at the house of Mr. Dean, where we had 
•some interesting conversation, music, singing, and prayer. 

On Wednesday, the 24th, having met with a passage to the 
Lnited Stales, by the "Lady of the Lake," I took leave of my 
friends in Bermuda, and embarked for America. The Bermudas 
;are a number of small islands, separated from each other by 
narrow channels. The soil is not rich ; but the surface of the 
.ground being gently undulating, the country has a beautiful 
appearance ; and the climate is said to be remarkably mild and 
•salubrious. The population is estimated at nine thousand; one- 
half of whom are whites, and the other blacks and coloured 
persons. Hamilton and St. George's are considerable towns, 
and contain many excellent buildings. At each place we have 
a good chapel, besides several small places of worship in dif- 
ferent parts of the country ; and the number of church members 



400 PABT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

was about five hundred. I was highly gratified by my brief 
sojourn in this interesting colony. 

Having been :: sea a week, on Wednesday morning, the 1st. 
of May. we made the continent of America. We soon afterwards 
took a pilot on t rard, entered the mouth of the Delaware, and 
proceeded up the river with a fair wind., being much delighted 
with the appearance of the country on either hand. During* 
the day we passe I Newcastle and Wilmington, and found our- 
selves in company with sailing vessels and steamers of various 
kinds. About ten o'clock, p.m.. we came to anchor off Phila- 
delphia, having sailed upwards of one bandied miles during the 
last fourteen hours. 

Early the next morning. I went on &w of 

the city, with which I was much pleased. It is said to be sc 
miles long, and three broad; the streets are laid out if righl 
angles with great regularity ; many of the buildings are large 
and substantial: and every thing exhibits legrec :: neatness 
and order much to be admired. Having introduced myself tc 
the Rev. Mrj G:. lany, a Methodist Minister, he kindly showed 
me his church, celled " Ebenezer/ 5 a n :t ; ; ::; 

although not equal to " Union Church.'" 5 the i so I went 

to see. In the afternoon I rode out to Fair Mount Wat e r works 
the most wonderful establishment of the kind I] seen. 

In the evening I attended a Class Meeting, said was afterwards 
introduced :: the Rev. Air. Janes, with whom I had a long and 
interesting conversation. 

At ::ur c'el::':: : :: Friday morning. I took ?oaeh for Wilkes* 
barre, a distance of one hundred and sixteen miles. During 
the day we passed through a country well colli s itfled 

The beautiful green fields were divided, not with stone walls, m 
quick-set hedges, as in England, but with strange zigzag fences 
made of wood. It was pleasing to :e:i::. however, that the 
farms which we saw invariably belonged to the parties who 
lived upon them, end not to oppressive landlords, as in some 
other countries. I was given :: understand that this part of 
Pennsylvania is settled chiefly by Germans. The towns of 
Bethlehem and Nazareth are inhabited exclusively- by Moravians, 
who have in connexion with thrrn extensive educational estah- 



CHAP. VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 401 

lishments. I rested for the night at Nazareth, and proceeded 
early the next morning. This day we travelled through a more 
dreary, hilly, and rugged country, the scenery of which was 
frequently grand. Towards evening we began to descend into 
Wyoming Valley, in the centre of which stands the town of 
Wilkesbarre. Being desirous of obtaining a view of the coun- 
try, I took my seat by the coachman, and soon found he was 
acquainted with my friends. As we approached nearer to the 
town, he pointed out my father's house and little farm, as well as 
the residence of my brother. In a few minutes afterwards, I saw 
my father coming through the garden gate; and, although I had 
not seen him for fourteen years, I recognised him instantly, not- 
withstanding his being at some distance. The coach stopped 
at the gate. My father turned round, and, although he had no 
knowledge of my visit, he recognised me in a moment. I will 
not attempt to describe our meeting under such circumstances. 
Suffice it to say that the good old man rejoiced exceedingly at 
the opportunity of being once more permitted to embrace a son 
whom he scarcely expected ever to see again in the flesh, after 
I had embarked for Africa, and he, with his family, to America, 
so many years before ; and I was equally happy in the enjoy- 
ment of a privilege which, till this moment, I had hardly ven- 
tured to anticipate. - The house was soon filled with brothers, 
sisters, friends, and relatives, who rejoiced over me as one risen 
from the dead. 

On the following Sunday, the 5th, I accompanied my dear 
father to his appointments at Kingston and Plymouth; and 
had the pleasure of hearing him preach in the morning with 
all the energy and vigour of former days. In the afternoon 
and evening I preached to large and attentive congregations. 
This was indeed a clay long to be remembered. 

I spent three happy weeks beneath my father's roof. The 
time passed sweetly and swiftly away, in viewing the country > 
in paying and receiving visits, and in Christian intercourse with 
friends and relatives, many of whom have settled in this neigh- 
bourhood. I was delighted to see most of them surrounded 
with all the comforts of life, and much improved in their cir- 
cumstances since they came to America. On the Sabbath I 

D D 



402 PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

preached in the large Methodist Church in Wilkesbarre and at 
the Plains ; and some who heard me were persons whom I had 
known in England fifteen years before. 

During my stay at Wilkesbarre, I spent a pleasant afternoon 
in the company of Sarah H. Miner, an intelligent and interesting 
blind lady, who, on being made acquainted with the circum- 
stances connected with my embarkation for Africa, about the 
same time that my father emigrated to America, composed and 
presented to me the following lines, pricked off on thick paper, 
after the manner of writing by the blind : — 

THE FATHER AND SON. 
Long years have flown by, with their sunshine and storms, 
Since on England's green shore stood two manly forms ; 
They parted w T ith glances of kindly regret, 
Each wishing the Gospel's loved standard to set 
In lands far remote from the isle of their birth. 
They parted to seek foreign quarters of earth. 
One sped o'er the wave with the ardour of youth, 
Bearing toil, braving danger, bold for the truth ; 
Beneath tropical suns, on Africa's coast, 
He warred with idolatry's embattled host. 
But the world was his field, and the labourers few ; 
To duties assigned him, still dauntless he flew ; 
Yet though he thus bore so laborious a part, 
It quenched not affection's warm glow in his heart. 
The years and the waves which have since roll'd between, 
Eail'd aught of affection from either to wean. 
Behold here the goal of their fond wishes won, 
On this western shore met that 'Father and Son. 

Early on the morning of the 23rd I took an affectionate 
leave of my venerable father and the rest of the family ; pro- 
bably to meet them no more in this world.* May we have a 

* This did indeed prove to be my last earthly meeting with my venerable 
father, and several other members of the family. A few years afterwards I 
heard, at short intervals, of the death of a brother and three sisters, and 
ultimately of the departure to a better country of my honoured father himself. 
He finished his course, triumphantly happy in God, at Wilkesbarre, on the 9th 
of August, 1859, in the 76th year of his age. The day before I took my 
leave of him, he wrote a few lines in my scrap-book of autographs, from 
which I extract the following precious sentences : — " Your visit to us has 



CHAP. VIII. — SUPPLEMENTAKY INCIDENTS. 403 

happy meeting in heaven ! I rested for the night at Easton, 
and proceeded the next day, partly by coach and partly by 
railway, to New York, by way of Jersey City. As this wonder- 
ful invention of modern times had been adopted since I em- 
barked for foreign lands, this was the first railway I had seen ; 
and it certainly appeared to be a great improvement on the old 
mode of travelling. 

On my arrival in the beautiful city of New York, I left my 
luggage at the Pacific Temperance Hotel, and walked over to the 
place where the General Conference of the Methodist Episcopal 
Church was holding its sittings ; but the meeting had broken 
up for the day. I then called at the Methodist Book Concern, 
in Mulberry Street, and introduced myself to the Rev. G. Lane, 
the Book Steward, who was glad to see me, being well ac- 
quainted with my father. Mr. Lane kindly invited me to make 
his house my home during my stay in New York. I gratefully 
accepted his friendly invitation ; and I shall ever feel obliged to 
him and his amiable wife for their marked attention and kind- 
ness during my brief sojourn beneath their hospitable roof. 

The next morning I attended the Conference ; and having 
been introduced to the Bishops, I was cordially invited to take a 
seat among the Ministers, and received with a kindness that 
made me feel quite at home. The subject under discussion was 
one of the deepest interest ; namely, the connexion of slavery 
with the episcopacy. Bishop Andrew had become the owner of 
two or three slaves, by marriage, which was considered an in- 
fringement of the discipline of the Methodist Episcopal Church ; 
and an animated debate was continued from day to day on this 
question during the week that I attended the sittings of the 

been truly refreshing, and forms one of the most pleasing incidents in a 
life which has been somewhat chequered, and will be remembered by us with 
gratitude as long as we live. I feel deeply when I think of that word 
* Farewell.' I gave you up freely for Africa, I will try to give you up 
freely for the West Indies. Your dear wife is there. And your dear 
people are there. Go, my son, and may God bring you in safety to your home. 
Tell your friends that the old man of whom they have heard you speak 
is still alive, and on his way to heaven. I hope to meet you in that country 
where the word ' Farewell ' will be heard no more for ever. 

" Wilkesbarre, May 22nd, 1844. Roger Moister." 

2 D 2 



404 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

Conference. There was some good speaking on both sides, in 
which Bishop Soul, Bishop Andrew, Dr. Capers, Dr. Winans, 
Dr. Bangs, the Rev. Messrs. Smith, Collins, Pierce, and Cass, 
appeared prominently ; but, of course, my feelings and judgment 
went with the North ; and I could not but feel surprised and 
grieved to hear the Ministers on the side of the South pleading 
directly in favour of slavery. On the Sabbath I was kindly 
accompanied by the Rev. Mr. Rowe to hear three celebrated 
preachers, — Dr Winans, Mr. Cross, and Mr. Collins, who dis- 
played an earnestness and zeal in their discourses quite cha- 
racteristic of American Ministers. 

"When I had attended the sittings of the Conference about a 
week, I met with a vessel bound for St. Yin cent's, the Captain 
of which I knew ; and as my health was very much improved, I 
resolved to embrace the opportunity of returning to the West 
Indies, without extending my travels to Canada, as I > first 
intended. 

On Saturday, the 1st of June, I took leave of Mr. and Mrs. 
Lane, Dr. and Mrs. Paine, the Rev. Messrs. Wright, Akers, 
and Swormstedt, and several other friends, and embarked for 
the West Indies. After a pleasant passage of three weeks, we 
made Barbadoes ; and as we ran down the windward coast, I 
had a view of Providence, our old station, and other places 
-which I recognised. In the evening we entered Carlisle Bay, 
and I went on shore at Bridge Town. After a brief interview 
with the Rev. E. Branston and family, Mrs. Gill, and Mrs. 
Hovell, I returned on board, and we bore away for St. 
Vincent's. 

On the following morning we made the island, and I had a 
clear view of Biabou and the neighbouring estates. About 
noon we came to anchor in Kingstown Bay ; and, as soon as I 
could obtain a horse, I rode to Biabou, where I was happy to 
find my dear wife in good health, and that all had gone on well 
during my absence. 

This visit to America was attended with circumstances oi 
peculiar interest, as it afforded me an opportunity of meeting 
once more with dear friends and relatives, and resulted in the 
re- establishment of my health ; so that on my return to the 



CHAP. VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 405 

West Indies I was enabled to pursue my labours for a while 
longer with pleasure and comfort. On the whole my impres- 
sions of America and American Methodism were decidedly 
favourable. I could not but look with feelings of veneration 
upon the noble band of Ministers sent as delegates from 
different parts of the Union to the General Conference. The 
evident genuineness of their piety, the simplicity of their dress 
and manners, and the lofty intellect displayed by several, 
attracted my particular observation. The dignified manner in 
"which they conducted their business also struck me very forcibly. 
Although the subjects of discussion were of the most exciting 
character, the rules of debate generally recognised by deliberate 
assemblies, and adopted by the General Conference, were 
strictly observed. There was no stamping, clapping, or cheer- 
ing ; nor did the speakers indulge in personalities or sarcasm, 
"but always spoke of their opponents as their " respected 
brethren." And when a resolution was passed, however large 
the minority, they meekly submitted to the majority without 
a murmur. The five Bishops presided in rotation, and no 
eulogium can be too strong on the manner in which they dis- 
charged their duties. They seldom took a part in the debates ; 
tut when they did speak it was with a weight and solemnity 
that seemed to be felt by all. I shall never forget the address 
of Bishop Soul on Bishop Andrew's case. Such were the 
esteem in which I held this good man, and - my utter detestation 
of slavery in every form, that I could not but deeply regret his 
sympathy with the South. From the whole of the proceedings 
during this memorable controversy a calm and disinterested 
observer of this assembly might have imagined himself carried 
back to the days of the Apostles, when they assembled to 
deliberate on the affairs of the Church in the upper room at 
Jerusalem. The hospitality and kindness, also, which they 
generously extended to a Minister of another great section of 
Methodism, and of another nation, made an impression upon my 
heart never to be forgotten. The Rev. Mr. Scott kindly in- 
vited me to go to Philadelphia, to preach in the place of Bishop 
Andrew, while his case was pending; but circumstances 
•obliged me respectfully to decline. 



406 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

The differences on the subject of slavery, alluded to above, 
ultimately resulted in the secession of the Southern Conferences- 
from the main body ; but as the limits of these memorials will 
not allow of my entering more fully into this and other subjects 
connected with my visit to the United States, I have pleasure 
in referring the reader to Dr. Dixon's able work on Methodism 
in America, towards the close of which he will find copious 
extracts from the speeches to which I listened with the deepest 
interest. It is matter of deep regret that now, after the fearful 
struggle between North and South is over, there appears no 
desire on the part of the Methodist Episcopal Church South to 
become reconciled to the parent ecclesiastical establishment. 

SECOXD SHIPWRECK. 

In the prosecution of his arduous duties, the Christian Mis- 
sionary is not only required to labour to the very utmost, and 
sometimes above his strength, to meet the numerous claims for 
his services, and to endure hardness as a good soldier of the 
Lord Jesus Christ ; but he is sometimes called to witness very 
remarkable interpositions of the providence and grace of God. 
Some instances have already been given, in the course of this 
narrative, of deliverance from danger, while travelling by sea 
and by land ; and others yet remain to be related. Truly I may 
say with the Apostle that I have been " in deaths often," and I 
can praise the Lord, " who delivered us from so great a death, 
and doth deliver : in whom we trust that He will yet deliver 
us." (1 Cor. i. 10.) 

It was during the period of my second appointment to the 
island of Trinidad that I experienced a very remarkable provi- 
dential deliverance from a watery grave, and from death by a 
stroke of lightning, — the fate to which one of my companions 
was actually doomed. This almost miraculous interposition 
was attended by so many remarkable circumstances, all illustra- 
tive of the special providence of God, that I think I need make 
no apology for placing upon record a brief account of it in 
these memorials. 

On the 5th of August, 1846, 1 had occasion, in the discharge^ 



CHAP. VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 407 

of my ministerial duties, to visit Couva, a station about fifteen 
miles from Port of Spain. I left town soon after six o'clock in 
the morning, in an open boat, accompanied by the two boat- 
men, John Ovid and William Woodford. The morning was 
fine ; and as we glided down the smooth and placid waters of 
the Gulf of Paria, the surrounding scenery seemed well cal- 
culated to draw out the mind in holy contemplation and joy. 
After singing a few verses of the hymn beginning, " There is a 
land of pure delight," I endeavoured to engage the boatmen in 
such moral and religious conversation as I thought likely to 
promote their spiritual and eternal welfare. Having arrived at 
our destination, visited the school, and performed the other 
duties of the day, which included the marriage of one of our 
teachers, we prepared to return in the afternoon. 

We started from New Bay at half-past two o'clock. The 
weather had become showery ; but it was not by any means 
more threatening than usual at this season of the year. A 
light breeze soon took us up as high as Carapiachaima, a dis- 
tance of about four miles, when we observed a thunderstorm 
gathering to the eastward, in dense black masses of clouds. 
The rain soon descended in torrents, and vivid lightning flashed 
around us, and the peals of thunder were fearfully long and 
loud. The breeze freshened, and we scudded along without 
the slightest apprehension of danger, beyond what might arise 
from a thorough wetting at this sickly season of the year. I 
had been again endeavouring to draw out the men in religious 
conversation ; and it is somewhat remarkable that we had been 
speaking of instances of sudden death by lightning, and of the 
necessity of being always prepared to meet our God, when 3 in 
a moment, in the twinkling of an eye, the lightning flash struck 
the bamboo yard which supported the lug-sail, and completely 
shattered it in pieces. The electric fluid descended the mast, 
and struck William Woodford dead in an instant ! At the time 
of this awful occurrence he was reclining his head against the 
mast, with the halliard rope in his hand, ready to let go in case 
of a squall. The lightning completely scathed him, setting his 
clothes on fire, and passed through the bottom of the boat. In 
the same moment John Ovid, who was at the helm, was struck 



40S PART II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

prostrate and helpless at my feet. I felt the shock myself: it 
produced an awful sensation, but did not for a moment deprive 
me of my reason. The concussion sent the boat nearly over ; 
but it soon righted again, half full of water. At this perilous 
moment I commenced baling the water out of the boat with 
one hand, whilst I endeavoured to arouse John with the other. 
After a few wild expressions of surprise he recovered from the 
shock, and began to throw the ballast out of the boat, whilst I 
continued to bale. As to William, he remained prostrate on his 
face, with his arms extended, just as he fell; and never so 
much as spoke, groaned, or moved. The fire on his clothes was 
soon quenched with the water. After a while we felt convinced 
that all our efforts to keep the boat afloat must be ineffectual, 
as she was filling fast, through the holes in the bottom. I now 
saw the necessity of making a strenuous effort for life, by swim- 
ming or otherwise, and commenced pulling off my coat and boots 
simultaneously ; but when I had got one boot off, and my coat 
just thrown over my shoulders, the boat went down, and we 
were immersed in the waves. Providentially the weight of the 
dead man's body, which hung partly over the gunwale, caused 
the boat to capsize in its descent ; and, being emptied of its 
contents, it came to the surface again, with the bottom upwards, 
We then made an effort to regain the wreck, in which I was 
much impeded by my coat, half off and half on, which acted 
as a pinion to my elbows. How I cleared myself from this 
difficulty I cannot tell ; I think I tore my coat asunder, and got 
it off in pieces. I only remember being fairly free from this 
entanglement when I mounted the wreck, and I never saw a 
vestige of my coat again. 

Although both John and I had hitherto succeeded in keeping 
our heads above water, we' had great difficulty in clinging to the 
boat, from its rolling motion, caused partly by the swell of the 
sea, and partly from the mast still remaining in its place. It 
revolved in the water like a barrel for some time, and it required 
our utmost efforts to keep mounting to the highest part. At 
one time I found myself being carried under the boat in its 
revolution, having missed my aim at the keel ; and when 
immersed in the water after so much exhaustion, that was the 



CHAP. VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 409 

moment, the solemn moment, which must remain indelibly im- 
pres sed upon my mind as long as I live, — the moment in which 
I mentally left this world, and resigned my spirit into the hands 
of my Eedeemer. In my descent the end of a rope came in my 
way, by means of which I raised myself once more to the top of 
the wreck. A faint hope of life again returned ; and soon after- 
wards the boat became more steady, and John and I sat upon 
"the keel with much less difficulty, only np to the arms in water, 
and getting a turn over now and then. 

As the storm abated and the mist began to clear away, we 
saw a white speck on the distant horizon. It was a sloop, which 
God in His providence had prepared for our deliverance. As it 
'came nearer, we made every effort to be seen or heard by the 
people on board. We united our voices to their utmost pitch, 
and also elevated a piece of board as a signal of distress ; but, 
for a long time, all seemed ineffectual, and our faith was put to 
the severest test, as we had reason to fear that we might be passed 
by the sloop unobserved. When nearly all hope was gone, we 
beheld with unspeakable delight a boat moving off from the 
sloop towards us. We now encouraged each other to hold on a 
little longer, and we were soon taken from the wreck, just as 
cramp had seized my feet and legs, having been exposed to the 
most imminent danger for nearly two hours, On reaching the 
sloop, we found it to be the " Atalanta," bound for Port of 
Spain ; and we were treated with the greatest kindness by Captain 
Dwyer and his men. As soon as I had taken off my wet clothes, 
I wrapped myself in a blanket with which I was kindly fur- 
nished ; and, having taken a cup of coffee, I lay down in one of 
the sailor's berths, not to sleep, but to pray and meditate during 
the whole night, and to plight my vows afresh faithfully to serve 
that God who had so mercifully interposed on my behalf in the 
hour of danger. 

We landed at Port of Spain the following day, about ten 
a.m., tolerably well, except a few bruises, and the fatigue con- 
sequent on our exposure and exertion. I will not attempt to 
describe my feelings on being once more restored to my family 
and friends. Mrs. Moister had spent an anxious night of watch- 
ing, every moment expecting my return ; and when a sailor 



410 PART II, — THE WEST INDIES. 

arrived at the Mission-House, bringing the intelligence of what 
had occurred, and requesting her to send me a suit of clothes on 
board before I could land, the shock was almost too much for 
her; but the grace of God supported her on that as on other 
trying occasions. The house was soon surrounded by our dear 
people, who came to offer their hearty congratulations ; and I 
was regarded almost as one raised from the dead. 

On the following Sabbath I endeavoured to improve this 
remarkable providence, by preaching to a crowded assembly of 
seamen and others from Psalm ci. 1 : " I wiJl sing of mercy and 
of judgment, unto Thee, Lord, will I sing."* A solemn 
influence rested upon the congregation, and I sincerely trust that 
some lasting good resulted from an event which I hope never to 

forget. 

" Oft hath the sea confess'd Thy power, 
And given me back at Thy command. 
It could not, Lord, my life devour, 
Safe in the hollow of Thy hand." 

RETURN TO ENGLAND. 

In the year 1S46, I had two very severe attacks of illness ; 
one of which was supposed to have been induced by the ex- 
posure and struggle for life, on the occasion of the shipwreck, 
from which I was so mercifully delivered, and to which refer- 
ence has been already made. By the blessing of God upon the 
means employed, I was so far restored as to be able to attend 
to my ministerial duties ; but I never regained my wonted vigour. 
The health of my dear wife also was much impaired ; and a 
change of climate was considered absolutely necessary for us 
both. We therefore prepared, somewhat reluctantly, to leave 
the West Indies ; and embarked for England on Friday, the 
16th of July, 1847, on board the ship " Bangalore," com- 
manded by Captain Tweedy. I will not attempt to describe 
the parting scene. It surpassed every thing of the kind I had 
before witnessed. The school children, members of Society, 

* This discourse was afterwards published; and John M'Swiney, Esq., 
generally presented the entire edition to the Society, the sale of which realized 
£20, in aid of our Mission Schools. The substance of it is also embodied in 
a Reward-Book, published at the Wesleyan Conference Office, entitled, 
(c Death Averted." 



CHAP. VIII.— SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 411 

and hundreds of others, followed us to the beach ; and we had 
a repetition of that which is so touchingly described in the 
twentieth chapter of the Acts of the Apostles. We had 
literally to tear ourselves away from a people who had become 
endeared to our hearts by the kindness and affection which they 
had manifested towards us during the five years that we had 
laboured among them.* 

The ship in which we sailed had come from India with Coolie 
emigrants, and was a commodious vessel, but rather leaky, and 
required pumping every two hours. Through a kind and 
gracious Providence, however, we had a safe and pleasant 
passage. When we had been at sea just six weeks, on Friday, 
the 27th of August, we once more heard the cheering sound of 
" Land a-head ! " On looking out, we could faintly distinguish 
the chalky cliffs of the Isle of Wight. In the afternoon, a 
pilot boat came alongside, and, having arranged to go on shore, 
in a few hours we landed at Brighton, the splendid buildings of 
w r hich, as seen from a distance, burst upon us like a dissolving 
view in the phantasmagoria. It seemed like a dream. But on 
setting our feet once more upon the shores of our dear native 
land, after an absence of nearly fourteen years, and feeling that 
it was indeed a reality, a gush of gratitude to God, for His 
preserving goodness, filled and overflowed our hearts, and we 
felt constrained to consecrate ourselves afresh to His service. 
We proceeded to London by the evening train; and whilst 
the novelty of railway travelling was amusing some of our 
fellow-travellers, who had never seen the like before, my mind 
was absorbed by a series of reflections, suggested by the good- 
ness and mercy of God to me and mine. 

" May we in life, in death, 

His steadfast truth declare ; 

And publish, with our latest breath, 

His love and guardian care." 

* Circumstances prevent my recording here the kind address of the 
people, and an account of the elegant testimonial — a complete dinner- 
service of superior silver-plated ware, with an appropriate inscription — 
which they presented to us on our departure from the island; but our 
Trinidad friends may rest assured that they are still remembered by us with 
feelings of sincere and undying affection. 



412 PAItT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 



THE WEST INDIA QUESTION. 

The limits and design of these missionary memorials do not 
admit of a minute discussion of the " West India Question," in 
its agricultural, mercantile, religious, and social aspects ; but, 
before I pass on to the next department of the work, I may 
make a few brief observations, which will indicate the views 
which I entertain on the subject. Since my return to England 
I have been much surprised at the comparative ignorance of 
religious people on West India matters. I have sometimes 
been seriously asked whether the glorious emancipation of the 
slaves has not proved a failure ? I have always answered, most 
emphatically, "No;" and I have no hesitation in now declaring 
my decided conviction, after a personal acquaintance with the 
measure in all its stages, that it has proved a grand success, 
despite the difficulties with which it has been beset. Let any 
one make a tour of the West India Islands who was acquainted 
with the state of things in the palmy days of slavery, and mark 
the pleasing changes which have taken place in the personal 
appearance of the peasantry, in their clothing, houses, furniture, 
places of worship, schools, &c, and then say whether emanci- 
pation has not been made a blessing to the people, notwith- 
standing the hard times, small wages, and other difficulties with 
which they have frequently had to contend since they were 
made free. 

But if emancipation has substantially verified the anticipa- 
tions of the friends of freedom, how are we to account for the 
commercial and agricultural depression — the " absolute ruin " — 
which has overtaken these once-prosperous colonies ? To this 
question I answer, that this outcry about cc absolute ruin," &c, 
must be received with caution ; and when properly modified, 
and corrected by facts and figures, as to the amount of exports 
and imports now, as compared with the same in the days of 
slavery, what remains of "depression" maybe accounted for 
without calling in question the wisdom and righteousness of 
emancipation. Look at the state of things on the approach 
of the advent of freedom. Most of the estates were heavily 



CHAP. VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 413 

mortgaged, and a large majority of the planters were on the 
verge of insolvency, in consequence of the gross mismanage- 
ment of their properties, and of the baneful influence of 
slavery. The compensation-money floated some of the pro- 
prietors over their difficulties, whilst others became still more 
deeply involved in after years, not in consequence of emancipa- 
tion, but as the result of slavery. Much might be said also of 
the hasty and unwise legislation of the Imperial Parliament in 
equalizing the sugar duties, and admitting to the British 
market foreign slave-grown sugar on nearly equal terms to that 
produced by free labour in our own colonies. Then came the 
desolating cholera ; and, in some of the colonies, earthquakes 
and hurricanes, followed by successive years of drought ; and 
the American war, involving expenses and losses quite sufficient 
to account for the difficulties through which the people and 
their employers have had to pass, without blaming emancipation. 
But the interests of religion have declined of late years in 
the West Indies. True : and who can be surprised at this, 
that has carefully considered the intimate relation between 
temporal and spiritual things, — the connexion between body 
and soul, time and eternity, the world which now is, and that 
which is to come ? "When, in some places, the agricultural and 
commercial interests of the country received a check, and began 
to decline, from the causes already indicated, employers were 
unable to pay their labourers the small pittance for which they 
had engaged to work. In some instances estates were thrown 
out of cultivation altogether, and the people became scattered 
in various directions in search of employment, and of food to 
eat, for themselves and their families. Just at the time when 
the people were most destitute of the means of support through 
want of employment, and the long drought, which rendered 
their provision-grounds almost useless, many of the necessaries 
of life arose to almost fabulous prices, in consequence of the 
American war. Then came actual want and starvation to many 
a poor black man's cottage, and an amount of suffering, the 
full extent of which will never be known in this world ; for the 
sable children of Ham are not a complaining pecple. The 
public and private means of grace were consequently neglected ; 



414 PAET II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

many who were weak in faith declined in religious experience, 
and sank under the accumulated weight of their sufferings, or 
fell into temptation, and were lost to the church and to the 
interests of religion, just as professing Christians of fairer 
complexion have done in other lands, in times of severe trial. 
Hence the reports of a decrease in the number of church mem- 
bers, and of diminished financial resources. 

In addition to these legitimate causes of the real or alleged 
declension of religion in the West Indies, we must not shut our 
eyes to the fact that there has, of late years, been a degree of 
ecclesiastical competition unknown in former times. In the 
dark and gloomy days of Negro slavery, the Missionaries had 
the rough pioneer work of civilizing and evangelizing the peo- 
ple pretty much to themselves. But as the era of emancipation 
approached, the times changed, the work became more easy and 
respectable in its character, and then came an influx of clerical 
gentlemen, claiming to be in the true apostolical succession, and 
seeking to disparage the character and labours of the noble 
band of Missionaries who had borne the burden and heat of the 
day, and who, in many instances, had done the real apostolical 
work of saving souls before these haughty intruders made their 
appearance. Friendly as I am to the National Church of this 
country, and to every truly Christian brotherhood, I am not one 
of those who entertain the opinion that the place of the Mis- 
sionaries in the West Indies is now superseded by the new- 
torn vigour of the Established Church of England in those 
islands ; or that the Missionaries merely linger and labour 
in the arena of their early sufferings and happy triumphs, 
without being still absolutely required on their respective sta- 
tions. I believe that the new-born vigour cf the Established 
Church, in many parts of the West Indies, is as nearly related 
to Popery on the one hand, and to infidelity on the other, as is 
the same new-born vigour in many parts of England; and 
that its very existence renders the labours of the Wesleyan 
Missionaries more necessary than ever to preserve their forty- 
<one thousand five Jmndred and seventy -tico church members from 
the pernicious influences to which they are thereby exposed, 
as well as to make fresh aggressions on the spiritual darkness 



CHAP. YIIT. — SUPPLEMENTARY INCIDENTS. 415 

which still prevails among the one million of people which 
inhabit the British West India colonies. 

The lamentable outbreak which has recently occurred in the 
island of Jamaica cannot fail to be a subject of painful interest 
to every friend of freedom ; and it is matter of sincere regret 
that any one should be found so ignorant, or so wicked, as to 
make this the occasion of an attack upon the whole Negro 
race, or to attempt to draw inferences therefrom disparaging to 
the philanthropic efforts which have been put forth for so many 
years to raise them from their former state of moral degradation. 
Some writers and speakers on the subject seem to have lost 
sight of the fact that a very small number, comparatively speak- 
ing, were implicated in the horrid atrocities which were com- 
mitted by the infuriated mob after they had been fired upon 
from the Court-House, at Morant Bay, or were in any way con- 
cerned in the revolt. Neither has due credit been generally 
given to the large majority of the Negro population, in the dis- 
trict where the disaffection was most rife, for the noble spirit of 
loyalty which they displayed towards the Government of Queen 
Victoria, at the very time that Her Majesty's representative and 
naval and military officers were adopting such extreme and 
doubtful measures to avenge themselves on their unhappy fellow- 
countrymen. Having spent the best portion of my life among 
the sable sons of Ham, and had ample opportunities of making 
myself acquainted with the Negro character, both at their own 
home in Africa, and in the lands of their exile, I am free to bear 
my humble testimony to their many excellencies, — to their 
devoted affection for those who treat them kindly, — and especi- 
ally to their constant and unwavering loyalty to the British 
Government. At the same time, black men, even when religious 
and loyal, are but men ; and if citizens of fairer complexion, 
and with superior privileges, in other lands, have been goaded 
to revolt by oppression and misgovernment, why should we 
hastily condemn a whole race of people for real or alleged crimes 
committed by a few of their number, and that in the absence 
of facts which may yet be brought to light in their favour ? 
Eather let us be thankful for the prompt and fearless action taken 
by the imperial authorities to insure a full and impartial investi- 



416 PAllT II. — THE WEST INDIES. 

gation into the whole of the circumstances connected with the 
event which we deplore ; and especially for the influence of that 
Christian instruction which, no doubt, kept the mass of the 
people in peace and quietness, when they might without it have 
been goaded to desperation by proceedings of a very doubtful 
character ; — whilst, at the same time, we calmly hope for better 
days. 

The dark cloud which now hovers over the sunny isles of the 
west will not always continue. The light of prosperity — 
agricultural, commercial, and religious — will again shine upon 
those interesting colonies. But the necessary means must be 
employed to bring about the desired change. Let philanthropic 
capitalists venture to invest a few hundred thousands of pounds 
of their spare cash in buying up abandoned estates in Jamaica, 
and some other islands, to give the unemployed labourers work 
to do. They are not an indolent people. Quashy will, at any 
time, do a fair day's work for a fair day's wage ; and the experi- 
ment would undoubtedly pay well. Let the Wesley an Missionary 
Committee send out a well- selected deputation to visit every sta- 
tion, converse with every Missionary and Teacher, collect infor- 
mation in reference to every chapel, school, and Circuit, — social, 
financial, and religious, — and report figures, facts, and opinions 
for their future guidance. Let British Christians kindly continue 
their support to our West India Missions a little longer ; not for- 
getting that these have been the most successful and fruitful 
Missions that were ever established in any country since the days 
of the Apostles. Let not the work be crippled, and the spirits 
of the Missionaries crushed, by financial retrenchment, at the 
very time when they most urgently need the sympathy and 
prayers of God's people. Let all the friends of Missions be- 
more earnest in prayer for the raising up of native labourers, 
the outpouring of the Holy Spirit, and the coming of Christ's 
kingdom, in this interesting portion of the Mission field, and 
they will see that their labours are not in vain in the Lord. The 
temporal and spiritual interests of these lovely islands will again 
revive; and the " desert shall rejoice, and blossom as the rose."' 



PART III. 

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 



CHAPTER I. 

TOPOGEAPHICAL SURVEY. 

Southern Africa as a Country — Boundaries — Scenery — Mountains — 
Rivers — Lakes — Deserts — Forests — Productions — Natural History — 
Climate — Native Territories — Ovampoland — Damaraland — Namaqua- 
land — Bushmanland — Zululand — Basutuland — Griqualand — Transvaal 
Republic — Orange Free State — Kaffirland — Natal — British Kafiraria 
— Cape Colony — Eastern Province — Western Province — Electoral 
Divisions — Towns — Villages — Hamlets. 

Having recruited his health by a residence in his native land 
for a period of nearly three years, the writer was requested by 
the Committee of the Wesley an Missionary Society to undertake 
a Mission to Southern Africa ; and at the Conference of 1850 he 
received an appointment as the " General Superintendent of the 
Cape of Good Hope District." It was not an easy task to 
relinquish at once, and perhaps for ever, all the comforts and 
associations of a respectable English Circuit ; but the claims of 
the Church were regarded as paramount to every other con- 
sideration, and the sacrifice was cheerfully made in the strength 
of Divine grace. Before proceeding to give the result of his 
own experience and observations, during a residence of nearly 
ten years in the Cape Colony, it appears to the author desirable 
to present the reader with a brief account of the general aspect 

E E 



418 PAKT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

of the country, the character of the native tribes and European 
colonists, and the means which had previously been employed 
to promote their social and religious improvement. 

Southern Africa may be said to comprise that portion of the 
gTeat continent which lies to the south of the Equator. It is 
bounded on the east by the Indian Ocean, on the west by the 
Atlantic, on the north by the unexplored regions of the interior, 
and on the south by the stormy waters of the ocean which washes 
the immediate shores of the Cape of Good Hope. 

In a country of such vast extent, being nearly two thousand 
miles in length, and about the same in breadth, we are not 
surprised to find great diversity of scenery, soil, and climate. 
There are some striking features, however, which apply pretty 
generally to the whole of this extensive and interesting portion 
of the globe. Wherever we travel in Southern Africa, we 
behold every thing on a grand and gigantic scale. There is 
nothing little or insignificant in the topography of this country. 
Every scene in nature corresponds with the magnitude of the 
vast continent on which it is found. The mountains generally 
rise to a high altitude, and frequently stretch away in apparently 
interminable chains, as far as the eye can reach, till they are 
lost in the dim distance, from which they again emerge to the 
view of the admiring traveller, as he pursues his journey. The 
valleys, the rivers, the lakes, and the extensive deserts, are 
equally imposing in their general aspect. 

The principal mountains of Southern Africa with which we 
have any definite knowledge, are the Omatako, Khamiesberg, 
Sneeuwkop, Piketberg, Table Mountain, Langberg, Winterberg, 
Amatola, Stromberg, Cockscomb, Compassberg, and the Kolo- 
beng. Some of these elevated peaks belong to mountain ranges 
which run nearly parallel with the coast on both sides of the 
continent ; and they are backed by others of still greater altitude, 
concerning which little is known, as they stretch far away into 
the unexplored interior, and unite to form what is technically 
called by geologists the " backbone " of Africa, or the grand 
" watershed " from which most of the rivers wend their way to 
the mighty ocean. 

The chief rivers are the Swakop, Orange, Buffet's, Oli- 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 419 

fant's, Berg, and the Zout, which run into the Atlantic; and the 
Breede, Knysna, Gauritz, Gamtoos, Sunday's, Buffalo, Kowie, 
Great Fish, Keiskamma, Great Kei, Bashee, Urntata, Umzim- 
vooboo, Tugela, and the Zambezi, which flow into the Indian 
Ocean. With the exception of the Zambezi and the Breede, 
none of these rivers are available for inland navigation. It is 
true that vessels may find a safe and commodious harbour in 
the mouth of the Knysna, in the district of George ; but, so far 
as it is navigable, this may be regarded as a lagoon rather than 
us a river. When the harbour works are completed which are 
now in progress at the mouths of the Kowie and the Buffalo, it 
is hoped that vessels of small burden will be able to ascend a 
considerable distance up these rivers ; but at present, like most 
others, they are nearly blocked up with immense sand-bars, 
which stretch across their mouths, and upon which the waves 
of the sea break with fearful violence. Indeed, most of the 
rivers of South Africa are only periodically supplied with water 
of any considerable depth. But after the fall of heavy rains in 
the interior, they frequently swell to an alarming extent, and 
sweep away all before them. Then travellers may be seen with 
their waggons and carts, waiting on the banks of the rivers, day 
after day, till the waters subside, before they can ford the 
stream, bridges being almost unknown in the interior. 

The only great lakes which have as yet been discovered, are 
Lake N' Garni, explored in 1846 by Mr. Oswell and Dr. 
Livingstone; the Lake Nyassa, first visited by the last named 
enterprising traveller in 1861 ; and the Lake Sherwa, described 
in the narrative of D. and C. Livingstone. The Nyassa is, in 
fact, more like an inland sea than a lake, being supposed to be 
upwards of two hundred miles in circumference, and remains 
yet to be explored. There are many other extensive sheets of 
water to be seen in different parts of the country, especially after 
heavy rains have fallen ; but these generally dry up in the 
summer season ; and from the saline character of the soil, the 
ground is frequently encrusted with a coat of salt, which the 
natives collect, and turn to good account as an article of com- 
merce. 

Extensive tracts of country in various parts of South Africa 
2 e 2 



420 PATtT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

frequently present the appearance of sterile wastes. This is- 
more especially the case after long periods of drought, when 
every thing is burnt brown with the fiery rays of the sun, and 
scarcely a blade of green grass is to be seen for scores of miles. 
The face of nature in the same localities wears a very different 
aspect, however, when refreshing rains have fallen. Then 
vegetation is remarkably rapid in its growth, and in the course 
of a few days the whole landscape wears a most cheering aspect. 
In the place of dreary desert wilds we now behold smiling green 
pastures, studded with beautiful flowers of almost every hue, 
and all creation seems to rejoice in the delightful change. This 
circumstance may serve to account for the conflicting descrip- 
tions given by different travellers of the same countries, who 
have passed through them at opposite seasons of the year. 

There are vast regions of the continent, however, to which 
the name of deserts will strictly apply, the face of the whole 
country presenting the appearance of nothing but rugged rocks 
and shifting sandy plains, and where gloomy nature never smiles. 
In passing across these dreary wastes, the way-worn traveller 
may proceed on his journey day after day without meeting with 
a drop of water to refresh himself or his weary cattle, and many 
have perished in the wilderness before relief could be obtained. 
To these barren tracts of country the natives have given the 
name of karroos, which signifies " dryness." The most extensive 
of these is the Kaliliari, or Great Desert, north of the Orange 
River, extending nearly one thousand miles in length, and 
about three hundred in breadth, between Great Namaqualand 
and the Bechuana Country. Nearly the whole west coast of 
Namaqualand, from Buffer s Eiver to Walvich Bay, may also be 
called desert, as it consists of a succession of dreary sand-hills 
and barren wastes, to a distance of from thirty to forty miles 
from the sea-shore. There are, moreover, several smaller tracts 
of country of a similar character within the boundaries of the 
Cape Colony, which are very thinly inhabited, in consequence 
of the sterile character of the ground and scarcity of water. 
One of these is crossed by the main road leading from Cape 
Town to Beaufort West, and is called, by way of distinction^ 
" the Karroo." 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 421 

In one respect the topography of Southern Africa differs 
materially from that of Western Africa. The latter country is 
remarkable for the extensive and primeval forests which are 
; found skirting the margins of the numerous rivers, and crowning 
the tops of the highest mountains ; but in the former we may 
travel for days and weeks in succession without ever seeing a 
tree larger than a mere bush, unless we meet with a few strag- 
gling camel-thorns, or willows, scattered along the beds of 
periodical rivers. There are exceptions, however, to this pecu- 
liar feature in the general aspect of the country. In some parts 
of Kaffraria, Natal, the district of George, and other localities, 
forests of considerable extent are to be found, which afford an 
ample supply of fuel, as well as timber for building and other 
purposes. 

On viewing the wild, romantic, and generally sterile character 
of the scenery, we must not conclude that the whole country is 
a barren wilderness. With the exception of the actual deserts 
just alluded to, the most unfavourable districts are available for 
the grazing and rearing of cattle, provided they have a wide 
range of pasture ; and on the south-eastern coast there are many 
large sheep-farms, where tens of thousands of sheep may be 
seen in a thriving condition. In the valleys, and on the 
extensive plains between the mountains, the soil is frequently 
rich and fertile, and well adapted for the growth of ail kinds of 
grain and other valuable produce. In the neighbourhood of the 
colonial towns and villages may be seen fruitful vineyards, 
orchards, and gardens, which would bear a comparison with 
those of any country in Europe. The greatest drawback to the 
successful prosecution of agricultural labours is the scarcity of 
water, the irregularity of the seasons, and the long-continued 
droughts, which are occasionally experienced, especially in the 
more interior districts of the country. These difficulties, it is to 
be hoped, will be in a measure overcome, in the course of time, 
by the formation of tanks, and by the various means of irrigation 
which have been found so useful in India and other countries 
subject to drought. By the adoption of these and other 
improvements, the capabilities of the soil will be more fully 
developed, and the country at large will present stronger claims 



422 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

to the attention of those who find it necessary to seek a home- 
for themselves and their families in foreign lands. 

Already the natural and mercantile productions of Southern 
Africa are considerable. The Cape Colony produces corn, wool, 
wine, aloes, dried fruit, hides, horns, skins, and tallow. From 
Namaqualand, and other parts of the interior, are brought large 
quantities of cattle, copper ore, ivory, ostrich feathers, and the 
skins of various kinds of wild animals, tanned and prepared for 
the market with considerable skill by the natives. And in 
Natal a promising commencement has been made in the cultiva- 
tion of sugar, coffee, arrowroot, indigo, and hemp. Whilst 
these and other commodities have become staple articles of 
export, butter, brandy, and tobacco are manufactured in large 
quantities for home consumption. Vegetables and fruit are 
found in great variety at the Cape ; and they might be cheap 
and plentiful if more attention were paid to their cultivation. 
We have potatoes, cabbages, turnips, carrots, peas, beans, 
kanalkoes, and the squash ; also oranges, apples, pears, peaches, 
loquats, pineapples, pomegranates, and the quince, with other 
vegetables and fruits of minor consequence. 

The whole country offers a fine field for the researches of the 
naturalist ; and, although the plan of this work does not admit 
of a detailed account of the various branches of science which, 
have been or might be prosecuted at the Cape, we may briefly 
note a few particulars. In the department of geology, the 
stupendous rocky mountains of granite and other formations 
demand more attention than they have hitherto received, not- 
withstanding the praiseworthy researches of Mr. Bains and 
others, who have done something in this line of study ; and the 
numerous indications of copper, iron, and other metals, which 
appear in various parts of the country, are deserving of full 
investigation. The botany of the Cape has been carefully 
studied by the late Dr. Pappe, who has embodied the result of 
his researches in an interesting work entitled " Sylva Cajiensis" 
to which we refer the reader for full information on this depart- 
ment of science. In zoology much remains to be done, not- 
withstanding the explorations and exploits of Mr.. Gordon 
Cumming and other Nimrods. Many of the wild animals*.. 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SUBVEY. 423 

once so numerous in the Cape Colony, have been exterminated 
or driven back before the onward march of civilization. The 
lion, elephant, camelopard, rhinoceros, eland, and other large 
animals, are found only in the remote interior ; but the tiger, 
wolf, jackal, baboon, and other troublesome creatures, are 
frequently found sufficiently near to annoy the colonial farmer. 
Various kinds of deer, differing in size from the gigantic quagga 
to the delicate antelope, are frequently met with. The ostrich 
is very common in the deserts ; and smaller birds are to be seen 
in great variety, from the majestic eagle to the beautiful little 
humming-bird. 

The climate of those parts of Africa which lie south of the 
Tropic of Capricorn is generally healthy ; but the regions 
beyond are not so. In the valley of the Zambezi, the neigh- 
bourhood of Mozambique and Delago Bay, and, indeed, in all 
the countries parallel with these, fevers, dysentery, and other 
diseases incident to the tropics, are prevalent. And when we 
speak of the climate of the Cape as generally healthy, we do not 
intend to convey the idea that the place is a perfect paradise ; 
but merely that it is superior to many other foreign countries. 
There are many drawbacks to health and comfort even in the 
most highly favoured parts of South Africa. The heat of 
summer is frequently oppressive, and the storms of winter are 
often violent and destructive. We have seen half a dozen 
splendid vessels driven on shore in Table Bay, in the course of 
a few hours, by the violence of the gale from the north-west. 
The south-east winds, which prevail in the summer season, have 
no doubt a beneficial influence on the country, in a sanitary 
point of view ; but they are, nevertheless, a source of great 
inconvenience and discomfort to the inhabitants. Such is the 
fury with which they sometimes blow, that travelling becomes 
not only difficult, but sometimes dangerous. Carriages are 
occasionally upset on the roads, communication with the ship- 
ping in the bay is interrupted, and dense clouds of dust are whirled 
about in every direction, the red particles of which find their 
way into every house, and into every crevice and corner. 

The commencement of a violent " south-easter " is accom- 
panied by a singular phenomenon. A large white cloud gathers 



424 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

around the top of Table Mountain. This is known by the 
people as the "table-cloth;" and when it spreads its ample 
folds, every one looks out for the coming gale, which never fails 
to set in from the south-east. This unpleasant wind sometimes 
continues to blow for a week or ten days without intermission ; 
and during the whole time the white cloud may be seen hover- 
ing round the top of the mountain. 

Frost and snow are nearly unknown at the Cape. It is only 
on the high lands of the interior that the ground occasionally 
becomes covered with a white carpet in the coldest months of 
winter ; and even then it soon disappears. On the tops of the 
mountains the snow sometimes remains a little longer ; but it is 
soon dissipated by the powerful rays of the sun, and the cold is 
never very intense or of long duration. There are, however, 
frequent and sudden changes in the temperature of the atmo- 
sphere, to which may be attributed the numerous ailments of a 
rheumatic type which are so prevalent among all classes of 
people. Cases of pulmonary consumption are very rare, and 
the climate has been found favourable to persons of weak chests, 
when they have availed themselves of it before the fatal disease 
had become actually developed. 

In order to have a correct view of Southern Africa as a 
country, we must regard it not merely in its general outline, 
topographical aspect, soil, and climate, but also in its internal 
divisions. 

In addition to the extensive territories occupied by the re- 
spective native tribes, the country is divided into five grand 
compartments under separate governments ; namely, the Cape 
Colony, British Kaffraria, the Colony of Natal, the Orange Free 
State, and the Transvaal Kepublic. Each of these we shall 
endeavour briefly to describe. 

The regions occupied by native tribes, which have of late 
years been brought, more or less, into contact with the European 
settlers, are Ovampoland, Damaraland, Narnaqualand, Bush- 
manland, Zululand, Basutuland, Griqualand, and Kaffirland. 
These vast territories are inhabited by nomadic races of people, 
who have, as yet, made but little progress in civilization, unless 
we make an exception in favour of those who have profited 



CHAP. I. TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 425 

most by the labours and example of the Missionaries who have 
been stationed among them. On these regions we may offer a 
few passing remarks, before we come to speak of the countries 
which are occupied by European settlers or their descendants. 

Ovampoland consists of a belt of sandy country which lies 
between the west coast and the high inhabited table lands of the 
interior to the eastward. It is bounded on the north by the 
Cuanene river, which separates it from the Portuguese territory 
of Benguela, and on the south by Damaraland, from which it is 
only divided by a broad thicket of acacias and camel-thorns. 
It was first visited by Messrs. Galton and Anderson in 1850. 

Damaraland is situated between Walvich Bay, from which 
it is easily accessible, and Lake 'Ngami in the interior. The 
country consists of sandy plains, fertile valleys, and towering 
mountains, some of which rise to an altitude of six thousand 
feet above the level of the sea. It was first visited by Sir J. 
Alexander, in 1838 ; and from this point the entire continent 
was crossed from east to west by Messrs. Chapman and Edwards, 
in 1851-4, several years before the celebrated Dr. Livingstone 
performed the wonderful feat of crossing it, much higher up, 
from the Zambezi to St. Paul de Loanda. 

Namaqualand is situated to the southward of the above. 
Little Namaqualand, which is bounded on the north by the 
Orange Eiver, has for many years been included in the Cape 
colony ; but Great Namaqualand, which extends from the Orange 
Eiver to Damaraland, and from the west coast far away into the 
interior, is still numbered among the native territories. It con- 
sists chiefly of extensive tracts of sandy, rocky, barren, desert 
land, where cultivation is entirely out of the question, except in 
a very few isolated spots in the beds and on the islands of peri- 
odical rivers, and where the inhabitants obtain a miserable sub- 
sistence chiefly from the milk of their flocks. 

Bushmanland is the name given to a tract of country 
situated on the south-east of Little Namaqualand. It is gene- 
rally destitute of inhabitants, except a few wandering Bushmen, 
the miserable remnants of a once numerous tribe of aborigines. 
After favourable rains, the ground produces grass, which grows 
in large tufts ; and the country is resorted to by the Namaquas 



426 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

and the Dutch Boers with their flocks, for the sake of the excel- 
lent pasturage which it then affords. 

Zululand. This is the name generally given to the extensive 
region which lies between the British colony of Natal and the 
Portuguese settlements in the neighbourhood of Delagoa Bay, 
and concerning the interior of which little as yet is known. It 
is to the northern portion of this country that Bishop Tozer 
and his party of the Church of England Mission propose to 
devote their labours, since their failure on the banks of the 
Zambezi ; so that we may perhaps hear something more of it in 
time to come. 

Basutuland is a comparatively small speck of country, with. 
an area of about fifteen thousand square miles, hemmed in by 
the surrounding lands of the Orange Free State. Natal, and 
Kaffirland Proper. It is a rocky mountainous region, in which, 
the head waters rise that form the Caledon, Yaal, and Orange 
rivers. In some of the valleys are found large tracts of good 
land in a state of partial cultivation ; and from the strongly 
marked and peculiar natural boundaries by which the country 
is almost environed, it is to be hoped that it may be preserved 
from the aggression which has too frequently attended European 
colonization. The native inhabitants, under the judicious rule 
of the powerful paramount Chief "Moshesh. have made consider- 
able progress in civilization ; and, with the continuance of peace 
and the friendly aid of the Cape Colony, they promise to present 
a favourable specimen of native government.* 

Griqualand, or the territory inhabited by a mixed race of 
Hottentot and European blood, stretches along the northern 
bank of the Orange River, and around its junction with the 
Yaal, and thus to a considerable extent separates the Orange 
Eree State from the Cape Colony. A large portion of the- 
country towards the south-west is extremely dry and barren, and 
destitute of inhabitants, with the exception of a few wandering 

* The above paragraph had scarcely been penned, when the painful news 
arrived of a war having broken out between the Basutus and the Boers of 
the Orange Free State. However this contest may terminate, it is sure to 
be damaging to both parties ; and it tends to confirm onr impression, that it 
would have been better for all concerned if the Free State territory had 
continued under the control of the British Government. 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 427 

hordes of Bushmen already mentioned, who obtain a miserable 
and precarious subsistence. Near the junction of the Orange 
and Vaal rivers, and to the eastward of it, the country improves, 
and is equal, if not superior, to many parts of the Cape Colony, 
especially for sheep-farming. Here the Griquas, under the 
Chiefs Adam Kok and TV aterboer, are principally settled ; and 
many of them have become possessed of considerable wealth in 
land and cattle, and are advancing in a knowledge of the arts of 
civilized life. 

The Transvaal Eepublic is situated still farther away in the 
interior, and includes all the country north of the Yaal river, 
on both slopes of the Cashan Mountains, which form the water- 
shed line between the Orange river and the Limpopo river 
systems. It is bounded on the south by the Yaal river to its 
source, which separates it from the Orange Free State, on the 
east by the Drakensberg mountains, which divide it from Natal, 
and on the north by the Limpopo river, whilst to the west it 
has no properly denned limits, but stretches away towards an 
unexplored country, some portions of which are occupied by the 
Eechuana tribes, still independent, and into the desert region of 
the Kalihari. Thus an area of probably upwards of seventy 
thousand square miles is more or less under the control of the 
Dutch Boers, who trekked or emigrated to this distant 
region from the Cape, Natal, and the Sovereignty, about the 
year 1848. The occasion of this general move northward is 
said to have been the dissatisfaction with which the Boers 
regarded several measures of the British Government, such as 
the emancipation of the slaves, the colonization of Natal, and 
the annexation of the extensive country known as the " Sove- 
reignty. 5 ' The surface of the country, like that of most of the 
interior regions of South Africa, is varied. In some places, 
large tracts of land are found well adapted for cultivation, being 
situated in the neighbourhood of rivers, which are available for 
irrigation ; whilst in other localities there are grazing lands 
and extensive forests, which will no doubt be turned to good 
account as the population increases. Should the Boers become 
more settled, and more pacific in their attitude and bearing 
towards the native tribes, and should they pay more attention 



425 PAET III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

to good government, education, the arts of civilized life, we 

may hope for the nltamaig prosperity ;f this country, as it pos- 
sesses many advantages. : .vail able ::: the particular class of peo- 
ple by whom i: is inhabited. The capital of the Republic and 

the seat cf giv c r::meuc is P:c:hefstr: ::u. ::. the IT:; ..no. 
about twenty miles north :i theYaal,and one thousand two 

hundred and sixty miles n:rth-east : 

The Orange Free State, formerly known as the 8 aeignty/' 
may be regarded, from its gecmceohicol vtsi . bin.; :f 

connecting link between the Cape Colony, the Transvaal Re- 
public, and NataL It consists chiefly of vast undulating plains, 
sliming geutiy a:wn from the Malute mountains to the Yaal 
river, don . however, in many pi ses, irith rocky hills, 

here locally called " Tv./r-v; f! although to the northward hun- 
dreds of square miles are found so entirely T 

?ely a break en the horizon. Tae Orange Free State is 
I : ended on the west and north by the Vaal river, which sepa- 
rates it from the 1 ml. mm;, country am, th ;li: ; 
en the north-east by the Dr. orate 
it from Xatal : :n the sum ":y the rocme ri 
it fr:m the Cane Colony; whilst the Winebergen and Griqua- 
land iir en the south-west. This r: ..-:": ;;.;:: :: mommy 
cemmrtses an air.. ;: about d:~y thousand square m 1 was 
once famous for its game: but :: late years. os population has 
increased, the numerous herbs of elands, .omsboks, and ether 
kinds :f deer. :uee s: common in this district we retired to 
the mere interim regions. As the traveller u: " passes through 
the country, he sees many striking evidences :: the advance of 
civTizaticn. Towns and villages are rising v. arious 
places ; whilst extensive forms for the cultivation of corn and 
toe rearing of cattle give evidence cf the industry of the 
inhabitants. 

Tne chief towns of the Orange Tree State are Bloemfontein, 
TVinbiirg. Smituueld. Harrismith, and Tauresmith, which are 
important Centres oc agricultural and mercantile business, and 
which give names to tne rive districts into which the country is 
divided. Timber for building purposes :s memo . and that 
which cs retuired tcr :uel is cm-ecteu from tne oeus of percoureol 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 429 

rivers, and other watercourses, where the willow, poplar, and 
acacia are occasionally found. The principal productions for 
trade and commerce are wool, cattle, corn, hides, and antelope 
skins, in exchange for which the inhabitants receive various 
articles of British manufacture. 

The colonization of this country, which a few years ago was 
a comparative desert, may be traced, like that of the Transvaal 
Eepublic, to the emigration of the Dutch Boers from the Cape 
Colony immediately after the Kaffir war of 1335-6. Many of 
these were dissatisfied with British rule, and especially with the 
Act of Parliament for the emancipation of their slaves. Ear- 
nestly desiring independency and freedom from control as to 
their treatment of the natives, they sold their farms in the old 
colony, and planted themselves in this locality beyond the 
colonial boundary. They were, after the lapse of a few years, 
disappointed of their object, however; for in 1848 the whole 
country was annexed to the British empire by Sir Harry Smith, 
Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Cape Colony. His 
Excellency, no doubt, deemed this arrangement essential to the 
safety and welfare of British interests in the then unsettled state 
of South Africa ; but it was not fully approved of by the Im- 
perial Parliament. Hence, in the year 1854, Sir George Clarke 
was sent out as a Special Commissioner, to arrange with the 
inhabitants for an independent form of government, and the 
organization of the Orange Eree State. 

It would be foreign to our object here to enter into a discus- 
sion of the question of the relinquishment, by the British 
Government, of this portion of South Africa ; but we cannot 
let the opportunity pass without expressing the decided opinion 
that this was a grand political mistake of the Imperial Parlia- 
ment. Whether we regard the interests of commerce, the 
civilization of the native tribes, or the future strength and 
prosperity of Her Majesty's dominions in South Africa generally, 
we feel confident that it would have been ultimately the best for 
all parties concerned, if the territory of the Orange Eree State 
had continued under British rule. Erom the results of this 
experiment in self-government by a small and mixed population 
far away from the great centres of civilization, we shall not be 



430 PAUT III. — THE CAPE OE GOOD HOPE. 

surprised to hear of the re-annexation, in some form, at no 
distant period, of this line country to the British empire, espe- 
cially as many of the most intelligent of the inhabitants seem 
earnestly to desire it. 

Having thus briefly danced at the respective countries which 
are situated in the more distant and interior parts of South 
Africa, we shall now turn our attention to those portions of the 
vast peninsula which are accessible by sea, and which, in one 
form or another, are subject to British rule, with the exception 
of Karririand Proper, through which we must pass in travelling 
bv land along the south-eastern coast. Commencing our survey 
in the north, and proceeding southward, we may first notice the 
colonv of Natal, — a comparatively new settlement, which has 
of late years been watched with feelings oi deep interest by 
intending emigrants, and concerning which a few particulars 
may be acceptable to the reader. 

The extensive territory known as the colony of Natal embraces 
an area of about twenty-five thousand square miles ; and, in its 
general aspect, presents to the view of the traveller a striking 
diversity of hill and dale, mountain and valley, with vast tracts 
of excellent land, well wooded, and watered by numerous majestic 
rivers. These rivers are not navigable, being crossed in some 
places by sandy bars and rocky rapids: but they impart a 
freshness and fertility to the country not frequently met with in 
South Africa. Tne colony is bounded on the west by the 
Umzimkulu river,* which divides it from Kaffirland; and a 
ridge oi high mountains, called the Quathlamba, or Drakens- 
bergen, separates it from Basutuland and the Orange Tree State 
en tiic north. On the east it is separated from the Zulu 

* By a proclamation recently published in the LVatal Government 
Gazette, i: appears that on and after the 13th of September, 1565, the 
western I irandary of the colony was to he extended from the rmzirnkulu to 
the Umturnfuna, an arrangemtnt by which a tract of country, with twenty 
miles of sea-coast, and extending to a considerable a stance into the interior, 
inhabited by ten thousand natives, is taken from Kamrlai Ided to 

Natal. By whose authority, or under what cimnnstances, this territory, 
to the extent of about one million of acres, has been annexed to the colony, 
dees not appear; but it is lescribed in the Natal papers as a fine zeld for 
European settlers. 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 431 

country by Buffers River, whilst to the eastward it is open to 
the Indian Ocean. 

The climate of Natal partakes much of a tropical character, 
violent thunder-storms frequently occurring, with heavy rains 
and intense heat, in the summer season. It is, nevertheless, 
considered very healthy and congenial, even to European consti- 
tutions. Fevers and epidemics are almost unknown, except in 
the neighbourhood of a few swampy spots near the coast. In 
the high lands European cereals are grown to a considerable 
extent, whilst in the coast districts considerable advancement 
has been made in the cultivation of tropical produce. Among 
the articles of export we already notice sugar, indigo, coffee, 
.arrowroot, and pine-apples. Several sugar-mills have recently 
been erected, and are now in successful operation; and experi- 
ments in the cultivation of cotton are being made, with the 
hope of profitable results from the large demand for this staple 
in the British market. 

The history of the colonization of this country, like that of 
many others, is marked with cruelty and blood. The place is 
said to have derived its name from the circumstance of its 
having been discovered by the Portuguese on Christmas Day, 
1498 ; but it does not appear that any European settlement 
was formed on this part of the coast at that early period. About 
the year 1822 several white traders visited Natal, when they 
found the whole country in possession of the powerful Zulu 
Chief Chaka, who ruled in the most sanguinary manner from 
ihe Umzimkulu to the St. Lucia rivers. He was killed and 
succeeded by his brother Dingaan, in 1838. About this time 
the restless and dissatisfied Dutch Boers began to enter the 
country, having penetrated through the mountain passes of the 
Drakensbergen. Dingaan, assuming a friendly bearing towards 
the strangers, invited a large number of them to his great place, 
expressing his willingness to dispose of certain lands which they 
required for their settlement. The Dutch farmers, suspecting 
no danger, accepted the invitation ; but, when surrounded by 
thousands of Zulu warriors, and in the midst of the grand 
palaver, at a given signal from the sanguinary Chieftain, the 
emigrants were cruelly massacred in cold blood. Dingaan was 



432 PAPT III. — THE CAP?, OF GOOD HOPE. 

soon afterwards attacked in his turn by the surviving Dutch 
emigrants, who had remained at a distance during this confer- 
enee, and who. after repeated conflicts, finally destroyed him, 
and made his brother Panda the paramount Chief. The Dutch 
Boers now settled themselves as lords and masters of the 
country ; but their proceedings were closely watched by the 
authorities of the Cape Colony, who. on the ground of previous 
occupancy by colonial traders, laid claim to an extensive district. 
In the year 1 S 4 2 , after severe resistance on the part of the 
Boers, that section of the country now forming the colony of 
Natal, was taken possession of by the British Government, and 
it was proclaimed an English colony on the 12th of May in the 
following year. Since this time, although labouring under 
many disadvantages from the want of capital and labour, it has 
continued to progress in a satisfactory manner, and it bids fair 
to become a valuable appendage to the British crown, having 
already a population of about 8,000 whites, and 105.000 
coloured persons. 

On approaching the colony of Natal from the sea, the atten- 
tion of the voyager is first attracted by the appearance of a bold 
promontory, or headland, called the Bluff, which rises to the 
height of two hundred and thirty feet, and is covered with 
trees and brushwood in perpetual verdure, down to the shore. 
On the top of the Bluff a lighthouse and signal post have 
been erected. Behind this conical hill is situated the magni- 
ficent bay for which Natal is so celebrated. This extensive 
sheet of water, which is five miles long ee broad, and 

completely land-locked, affords a commodious and safe harbour 
in all weathers for such vessels as can avail themselves of it; 
but, unfortunately, the entrance is impeded by a precarious 
and shifting bar of sand, which renders it necessary for large 
vessels of deep draught to anchor in the roads outside, where 
they are exposed to the heavy swells which frequently roll in 
from the Indian Ocean. Hopes are entertained, however, that 
this serious impediment will ultimately be removed by the 
application of engineering skill, when Port Natal may become 
a convenient harbour of refuge for vessels overtaken by storms 
on their voyages to and from India. Nearly in the centre of 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 433 

the bay there is a beautiful island, to which, as well as to the 
more distant bluff, parties of pleasure frequently proceed on 
festive occasions, when aquatic excursions are the order of the 
day. 

On the northern margin of the bay stands the town of 
D'Urban, which is already adorned with a number of good 
buildings, and which is rapidly advancing to the position of 
a first-class colonial seaport. To this place belongs the honour 
of constructing the first railroad which was laid down in South 
Africa. It was formed for the purpose of transporting goods 
from the landing place to the warehouses in the town, a distance 
of about three miles along the shore, over a loose sandy soil, 
which was difficult to traverse previous to this arrangement. 
The railway will no doubt prove a profitable speculation. 

A journey of about fifty miles through a wild and rugged 
country brings the traveller to Maritzberg, the capital of the 
colony, and the seat of government. Formerly this journey 
occupied two or three days, with the cumbrous ox-waggon ; but 
now it may be accomplished in twenty-four hours, in a respect- 
able omnibus, which proceeds at a rapid rate, being furnished 
by relays of horses at convenient intervals along the road, after 
the manner of the good old English stage coaches. Maritzberg 
is beautifully situated in a lovely valley, surrounded by lofty 
mountains. The streets are laid out at right angles, and the 
dwelling-houses, many of which are of a respectable character, 
are generally surrounded by gardens, and ornamented with trees 
and streams of water, — objects of a pleasing character anywhere, 
but especially in Southern Africa. The only other towns of any 
note in Natal are Verulam, Lady smith, Bichmond, Albert, and 
Pine Town ; but villages and hamlets are being laid out in 
various places, some of which will expand into important towns 
and cities, as population increases, and the resources of the 
country become more fully developed. 

Since Natal became a separate and independent colony, it 
has had its own resident Governor, Judges, Magistrates, courts 
of justice, and other institutions similar to those which have 
long been established in the other settlements. Representative 
government has also been introduced, similar, with some trifling 



434 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

modifications, to that which has been awarded to the Cape 
Colony; and, notwithstanding the comparative inexperience of 
some of the members who have been from time to time elected 
as representatives in Parliament, the experiment promises to be 
successful, and Natal will no doubt become an increasingly 
valuable appendage to the British crown. 

On proceeding southward, and crossing the river Umzimkulu 3 
the traveller enters Kaffirland, — avast tract of country, with 
an area of 25,000 square miles, separating the colony of Natal 
from the other British possessions in South Africa, and still 
inhabited by various wandering tribes of natives. Many of the 
best friends of the aboriginal inhabitants are of opinion that it 
would be for the advantage of the native tribes, as well as for 
the interests of religion, peace, and civilization, if this portion 
of the great continent were brought under British rule ; but 
this is not the place to discuss the policy of annexation, or the 
adjustment of colonial boundaries, any further than the geo- 
graphical position of the respective settlements, as seen on the 
map, may call forth a passing remark. The general aspect of 
Kaffirland is broken and rugged, the country being intersected 
by numerous rivers, which flow in deep valleys or ravines ; by 
means of which travelling is rendered somewhat difficult, espe- 
cially after heavy rains, when the mountain torrents carry all 
before them in their rapid course towards the Indian Ocean. 
There are, nevertheless, tracts of excellent land, favourably 
situated between the rivers, and along the base of the mountains, 
which would richly repay the labour of the agriculturist, if they 
were brought under cultivation. This part of the coast is gene- 
rally favoured with an ample supply of wood and water, — advan- 
tages of great value in South Africa. Little has been done by 
the natives as yet, however, to develope the resources of the 
country : neither can much be expected, till they become more 
peaceful and settled in their habits, and subject to a more 
enlightened and civilized form of government. 

British Kaffraria comprehends the country which lies be- 
tween the Keiskamma and the Great Kei rivers ; bounded on the 
north by the Amatola mountains, and from their eastern extremity 
by the high road from King William's Town to Queen's Town, 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 43 5 

as far as the Great Kei river, — an area of about 4,000 square 
miles. It is the region from whence issued, uutil finally sub- 
jected to British rule, those hordes of Kaffir marauders which 
devastated the Cape Colony, in the various wars which occurred 
from 1S0G till 1S53, actuated by the love of plunder, or excited 
to fanaticism by false prophets, often the mere tools of ambitious 
Chiefs. 

This portion of Kaffirland was first declared a British province 
by Sir Benjamin D'Urban, after the Kaffir war of 1835-6, 
under the name of the " Province of Queen Adelaide ; " but the 
measure being disapproved of by the Home Government, it was, 
with a few restrictions, given back to the Kaffir Chiefs, together 
with the country between the Great Fish and the Keiskamma 
rivers, then called the Neutral Territory, and now forming the 
division of South Victoria. After the Kaffir war of 1846-7, 
Sir Harry Smith, then Governor and Commander-in-Chief of 
the Cape Colony, again formed this country into a British 
province, believing that without such a measure peace could not 
long be preserved. This time the Home Government acquiesced 
in the arrangement ; and it has ever since been subject to 
British rule, as a separate dependency, under the direction of 
His Excellency the Governor of the Cape Colony as High Com- 
missioner for this special purpose. The capital of the province 
and the chief military depot, is King William's Town, on the 
Buffalo river, which has been gradually increasing and rising 
into importance as the elements of order and civilization have 
prevailed among the people. The port of British Kaffraria is 
at the mouth of the Buffalo river, and is dignified with the 
name of East London. The landing of goods and passengers 
at this place has hitherto been attended with difficulty and 
danger, in consequence of the exposed character of the anchor- 
age, and the heavy swell which frequently rolls in from the 
Indian Ocean ; but it is hoped that a remedy will be found 
for this evil, when the extensive harbour improvements now in 
progress are completed. 

The general character of the country is said to be highly 
favourable to the enterprise of British settlers, who have come 
in considerable numbers to occupy the farms which have been 

2 f 2 



436 P.YET III. — THE CAPE 0E GOOD HOPE. 

allotted to them by Government. The?? grants have been 

made in consideration of services already rendered, or to be 
given in future, for the defence of the country, if necessary. 
In addition to these farms, which are generally occupied by 
enterprising young colonists, on condition of militia service, 
there are numerous military posts established in various parts 
of the country, which, together with the advance of religion and 
civilization, afford a tolerable guarantee for the future safety 
of the colony of the Cape of Good Hope.* To this most 
important and interesting portion of South Africa we would 
now direct the attention of the reader. 

The Cape Coloxy has been enlarged in its territorial dimen- 
sions from time to time, and is now bounded on the north and 
the north-east by the Orange river, which divides it from Great 
"N T amaqualand, Griqualand, and the Free State republic ; on the 
east and north-east by the : Tees. a small tributary of the Orange 
Paver, to its source, thence along the Stormbergeu, the Inclwe, 
and Keiskamma rivers, to the sea, which divides it from Basutu- 
land, Kaffirland, and British Kaffraria ; on the south by the 
Indian Ocean; and on the west by the Atlantic. 

In order to obtain a correct view of the Cape Colony, we 
must consider it in irs two grand compartments, the Eastern and 
T\ estern Provinces. These are again subdivided into electoral 
divisions, the Eastern Province sending seven members to Par- 
liament, and the Western Province eight. Whilst the two pro- 
vinces possess many features in common with each other, there 
are, at the same time, some points of difference which are worthy 
of notice, and which may, perhaps, in some measure, account for 
that want of unanimity and hearty co-operation which we have 
often observed and deplored in people inhabiting the east and 
west " ends of the colony," to use their own phrase. 

The Eastern Province is. to a considerable extern, inhabited 
by English settlers, and their descendants, whose history will be 
noticed hereafter. It is divided into ten electoral divisions, with 
their civil Commissioners, Magistrates, and periodical courts, 

* Siuce the above was written, British. Kaffraria has been annexed 
the Cape Colony, by an Act of the Colonial Parliament, passed, after a 
very animated debate, in the session of 1865. 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SUEVEY. 437 

namely : — Albany, Port Elizabeth, Uitenhage, Tort Beaufort, 
-Graaif-Keinet, Somerset (East), Cradock, Colesberg, Albert, and 
Victoria, A few brief observations in reference to each of these 
divisions may help to give a clear view of the character of the 
country, and be of service when future reference is made to the 
respective localities. 

Graham's Town, the capital of the Eastern Province, and the 
principal town in the electoral division of Albany, is situated in 
a pleasant valley about six hundred miles from the Cape, and 
thirty from the nearest point of the sea-coast. It is well laid out 
with wide streets, and contains many good buildings. Since 
the appointment of a Bishop it has been raised to the dignity of 
an episcopal city. The population, according to the last census, 
is 8,188. The coast region of this division, called Lower 
Albany, and formerly known as the Zuurveld, is suitable for 
agricultural purposes; but the highland district, or Upper 
Albany, is better adapted for sheep farming, which is the prin- 
cipal occupation of the settlers in these parts. Bathurst is a 
pleasant little country town, and gives its name to a district 
now incorporated with the Albany division. Port Francis is a 
rising little seaport at the mouth of the Kowie river; and 
Salem and Biebeek are pleasant little villages. 
i Port Elizabeth is the principal seaport town on the south- 
eastern coast of the Cape Colony, as well as the principal place 
in the electoral division to which it gives its name. A few 
years ago it was a mere village, and presented a very uninviting 
appearance to the view of the mariner, as he entered Algoa Bay, 
on the margin of which it stands; but it is now a rising and 
respectable town, with many good dwellings, shops, and ware- 
houses, and a population of 9,043. W aimer and Korsten are 
the only villages in this division ; the former is six miles west, 
and the latter four miles east, of Port Elizabeth. 

Uitenhage is a considerable inland town, situated on the 
Zwartkop river, about twenty miles from Port Elizabeth, and is 
favoured with a pleasant and fertile site. The dwelling-houses, 
many of which are neat and respectable, generally stand in their 
own separate allotments, surrounded by beautiful gardens and 
orchards, which give a rural and pleasing aspect to the place. 






43S PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

The villages in the Uitenliage district are Darlington, 

dria, Colchester, Jansenville, and Humansdorp. 

Fort Beaufort is an important town in immediate connexion 
with Stockenstrom, or the Kat River Settlement, and is chiefly 
remarkable for its extensive array of military buildings, being 
favourably situated for the defence of the colony in the time of 
Kaffir wars. The division is generally mountainous and well 
wooded ; and, in the Kat River valley especially, it is well 
watered and fertile. The principal villages are Eland's Fosl 
Seymour, and Philipton. 

Somerset (East) is a rising town, situated at the foot of a 
range of mountains called the Boschbergen, on the Little I 
River, in a beautiful country. It gives its name to an extensive 
electoral division, celebrated for its grazing farms and sheep- 
walks. The only other place of consequence in the district is 
the rising little town of Bedford. 

Graaff-Reinett is one of the largest inland towns of the Cape 
Colony. It is beautifully situated on the banks of the Sunday's 
River ; and the streets are tastefully laid out, and planted with 
orange and other trees, which give a rural and pleasant aspect 
to the place. The division to which the town gives its name 
includes a high mountain range, called the Sneeubergen (Snow 
Mountains). The highest mountain in the colony, the Compass- 
berg, which rises to an elevation of nine thousand fee:, is s;:uated 
in this division. The principal towns and villages are Murrays- 
berg, Aberdeen, and Richmond. 

Cradock is a small but important town, which stands in the 
centre of an elevated basin, surrounded by mountains, and 
forming the electoral division to which the town gives its name . 
In these mountains, which are frequently covered with snow in 
winter, several periodical streams take their rise, and unite la 
form the Great Fish River, which flows past the town. Several- 
salt-pans are found in this division ; but it cannot boast o: 
other towns or villages, besides the one already named. 

Colesberg is an advanced post on the far distant northern 
frontier of the colony, being situated only twelve miles south of 
the Orange River, and gives its name to an extensive, but some- 
what wild, dry, and barren, electoral division. Since the form- 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 43 £ 

ation of dams to preserve the water after the rains, sheep farming 
has been carried on with considerable success ; and this division 
is becoming famous for the excellent quality of its wool. The 
other towns and villages are Hanover, Hope Town, and 
Middelburg. 

Albert is an electoral division, so called in honour of the late 
Prince Consort, the chief towns of which are Burghersdorp, on 
the Stormberg Spruit, and Aliwal (North), on the Orange River. 
The only other places of consequence are the extensive native 
location and Mission of Wittebergen, and the new village of 
Dordrecht. This also is chiefly a sheep-farming district. 

Victoria is a remote and newly-formed electoral division, so 
called in honour of the Queen of England, the capital of which 
is Queen's Town. It is a highly fertile and well- watered 
region ; and, since its separation from Kaffirland by Sir George 
Cathcart in 1853, it has been rapidly filling up with European 
settlers, to whom special advantages were offered, with a view 
to the defence of the colony. 

In our brief topographical survey we now turn to the Western 
Province of the Cape Colony, which is also divided into ten 
electoral divisions, for judicial and fiscal purposes, and which, 
with their respective towns and villages, call for a few brief 
notices ; namely, the Cape, Malmsbury, Stellenbosch, Paarl, 
Worcester, Caledon, Swellendam, George, Beaufort (West), and 
Clanwilliam. 

Cape Town, the capital of the Colony, is situated in a con- 
tracted valley, and on the margin of an extensive bay, with Table 
Mountain immediately behind, which rises up almost like a per- 
pendicular wall of granite to the height of four thousand feet, 
and, with its horizontal summit, from which it takes its name, 
presents a singular appearance on entering the harbour. The 
streets are laid out at right angles, and many of the buildings 
are of a substantial and elegant character. Some of the stores, 
or shops, and warehouses, with elegant plate-glass windows 
and highly ornamental fronts, would be no discredit to any city 
in Europe. The town being lighted with gas, and cabs and 
omnibusses plying in every direction, with now and then the 
shrill sound of the railway whistle, and the loud snorting of the 




440 PART III. — THE CAPE 0/ GOOD HOPE. 

iron horse, as the train leaves for the country, the place is more 
English in its character than any other we have seen in foreign 
lands. On leaving the city, and crossing the dreary sandy 
Cape Flats which terminate at False Bay, and separate Table 
Mountain from the interior districts, we come to the more fer- 
tile regions of Tigerberg and Koeberg, celebrated for their corn 
farms, all included in the Cape division, w T ith the village of 
D'Urban for their centre. But the towns and villages in the 
immediate neighbourhood of the city demand a brief descrip- 
tion. 

Eondebosch is a pleasant little village four miles from Cape 
Town. It consists of a number of detached cottages and 
respectable mansions, which are situated on each side of the 
road at considerable and irregular intervals, separated from each 
other by fields, gardens, and vineyards. Mowbray may be 
regarded as a continuation of Ptondebosch, and consists of- 
dwelling-houses of a similar description to those already men- 
tioned. They are occupied chiefly by Cape Town merchants 
and Government officials, who are glad to escape from the heat 
and dust of the city to this agreeable locality when they have 
finished the business of the day. 

Proceeding along a tolerably good road, each side of which is 
lined with oak or fir trees, with here and there a beautiful 
mansion embowered in verdant foliage, we come to the rural 
but straggling village of Claremont, about six miles from Cape 
Town, in which are many pleasant dwelling-houses. 

"Wynberg is situated about eight miles from the capital, partly 
behind Table Mountain, and is a beautiful village, and cele- 
brated as a healthy and agreeable place of resort for Indian 
visitors. A railroad having been recently opened between Cape 
Town and Wynberg, calling at the intermediate places, every 
facility is afforded for a country residence to parties whose 
chief duties are in the city. 

After leaving Wynberg, the road soon becomes more dreary. 
On the right we have a range of rugged mountains, at the foot 
of which are situated a few scattered farms, and on the left a 
vast sandy plain, on which may be seen occasional patches of 
cultivation, with here and there a poor labourer's cottage. To 



CHAP. I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 441 

the right we notice in the distance Constantia, a small district 
celebrated for the quality of its wine. After travelling a distance 
of about fifteen miles from Cape Town, we reach the sea-shore, 
at the top of False Bay, on the opposite side of the peninsula. 
Along this shore, with the waves dashing up among the rocks, 
the road leads to Simon's Town, which may be seen in the dis- 
tance, through Kalk Bay, a straggling marine village, and a 
fashionable little watering-place. 

Simon's Town is a lively bustling little place, situated in an 
amphitheatre of rugged mountains, with very little land avail- 
able for cultivation. It contains some good buildings, the most 
prominent of which is the Wesleyan chapel, which stands in a 
conspicuous situation on an eminence above the town. This 
place derives its chief importance from its military and naval 
establishments, including the Government dockyards, and from 
-the bay, which affords a secure harbour for shipping in all 
weathers. 

Malmsbury is a pleasant village about forty miles from Cape 
Town, in the direct road to Namaqualand, and gives its name 
to an electoral division, which comprises a large agricultural 
district, including Zwartland, Saldanha Bay, and the villages of 
Picketberg, Hopefield, and Darling. 

Stellenbosch is an ancient and important agricultural town 
nearly thirty miles from Cape Town. It is pleasantly situated 
on the north bank of the Eerste river, at the head of a beautiful 
and fertile valley. The streets are straight, and intersect each 
other at right angles. Most of the houses are built after the 
old Dutch style of architecture, with highly ornamented gables 
and thatched roofs : they are nevertheless substantial and 
respectable in their appearance. A stream of pure water runs 
along each side of the principal streets, which are also lined with 
rows of oak trees, which afford a refreshing shade in the sum- 
mer season, and add much to the beauty of the place. The 
only other places of consequence in the Stellenbosch division 
are Somerset (West), about thirty miles from Cape Town, on the 
high road to Port Elizabeth and Eransche-Hoek, at the foot of 
a range of stupendous mountains. 

Paarl is a scattered district or hamlet, rather than a village, 



442 PAET III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

thirty-eight miles from Cape Town ; but it is a place of exquisite 
rural beauty. The dwelling-houses stand at a distance from 
each other, along an extensive plain at the foot of a mountain. 
The intervals are occupied by gardens and vineyards, which give 
to the neighbourhood a charming prospect, when seen from a 
distance. The Paarl Division includes the village of Welling- 
ton, about seven miles further, to which a railway has been 
opened from Cape Town, affording great facilities for travelling 
to these and the intervening places. 

Worcester is an important inland agricultural town, about 
eighty miles from the Cape, and is approached through a stu- 
pendous mountain pass, called Bain's Kloof, in honour of the 
engineer who constructed the road. This place is the centre of 
a populous district comprised in the electoral division of Wor- 
cester, including the rural villages of Tulbagh and Ceres. 

Caledon is a pleasant little town, situated behind the first 
mountain range from the Cape, and about seventy miles from 
the capital of the colony. It gives its name to an electoral 
division, which includes an extensive tract of imdulatifcg^ 
country, with the interesting villages of Bredasdorp, Napiers- 
dorp, Elim, Yilliersdorp, and Gnadendal. 

Swellendam is an ancient inland colonial town, founded in 
1745, on the high road to the north-eastern frontier, and about 
one hundred and forty miles from Cape Town. It is the centre 
of an important and populous agricultural electoral division, to 
which it gives its name, embracing many large farms, and the 
rising villages of Heidelberg, Eiversdale, Eobertson, Ladysmith, 
and Montague. 

George is the name of a straggling village and electoral 
division, still farther away in the interior, about two hundred 
and ninety miles from Cape Town, which are traversed in their 
entire length by the highway to the frontier. This division 
includes also the villages of Oucltshoorn, Aliwal (South), Mel- 
ville, and Belvidere. 

Beaufort (West) is a new and rising village, in a wild and 
remote district near the Orange River, three hundred and thirty 
miles from Cape Town, and gives its name to an electoral 
division, which includes an immense tract of country not well 



CHAP. II. — NATIVE TRIBES AND COLONISTS. 443 

adapted for agricultural purposes, but suitable for slieep farms, 
of which there are a great number. This division includes also 
the villages of Frazerburg, Prince Albert, aud Victoria. 

Clanwilliam is the most extensive division in the Western 
Province, embracing the whole region of Little Namaqualand, 
as far as the Orange River. The village which gives its name 
to this division, is situated in a romantic valley in the Cedar 
Mountains, and is the place of residence of the Civil Com- 
missioner, whose jurisdiction extends to the villages of Calvinia, 
Khamiesberg, and Springbok Pontein. 

This topographical survey would have been much more 
minute and full in its descriptions, had our limits admitted of 
amplification ; but, brief and imperfect as it is, it may serve to 
give some idea of the character of Southern Africa as a country, 
and be of service where reference is made to different localities 
in the course of our Missionarv narrative. 



CHAPTER IT. 

NATIVE TRIBES AND COLONISTS. 

Discovery of the Cape — Early History — Settled by the Dutch — Taken by 
the English — Hotte ntots — Their Origin — Character — Language — 
Bushmen — Xarnaquas — Korannas — Griquas — Other coloured Persons — ■ 
Kaffirs — Their Appearance — Dress — Occupation — Food — Supersti- 
tions — Language — Different Tribes — Arnakosas — Amazulus — Bechu- 
anas — Damaras — Xegroes — Their History — Character — Malays — 
Their Origin — Personal Appearance — Dress — Fcod — Numbers — Reli- 
gion — Europe ax Colonists — Dutch — English — Scotch — Irish — 
French — Germans. 

The extensive and interesting country, which has just passed 
under review, and which is known by the general name of 
Southern Africa, is inhabited by people belonging to various 
nations and tribes, of different shades of complexion, and speak- 
ing different languages. Some of these may be regarded as 



444 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

aborigines, properly so called, whilst many more have come 
from distant regions, settled in the country, and adopted it as 
their home. Perhaps the most intelligent and correct view of 
the character and circumstances of the population will be 
obtained by a glance at the manner in which this portion of the 
globe first became known to the civilized world, and the course 
which events have taken from that time to the present, so far 
as they affect the condition of the inhabitants. 

The discovery of the Cape of Good Hope is, by general con- 
sent, awarded to Bartholomew Diaz, a native of Portugal, who 
flourished in the latter part of the fourteenth century. This 
enterprising voyager, having been commissioned by his Sove- 
reign, John II., to seek for a maritime passage to India, 
embarked on his perilous project in the year 1486. After 
tracing upwards of two thousand miles of the unknown western 
coast, he came in sight of the bold promontory since designated 
" Table Mountain," and which forms the termination of the 
vast continent of Africa in this direction. Here he was over- 
taken by a violent tempest, which for the present obstructed his 
further progress ; and, having named the peninsula which he 
had discovered the " Cape of Storms," he returned to his own 
country, supposing he had reached the utmost limits of practical 
navigation to the southward. The King of Portugal, however, 
was more sanguine in his views ; and anticipating still further 
success, he changed the name of the great southern promontory, 
discovered by Diaz, to that of the " Cape of Good Hope." He, 
moreover, commissioned the navigator to proceed on a second 
voyage of discovery, with a view to explore the unknown 
regions beyond ; but on this occasion Diaz met with still greater 
disasters, and ultimately found a watery grave not far from the 
place where he was obliged to relinquish his first enterprise. 

About ten years afterwards the celebrated Gama was employed 
in a similar service by his enterprising Sovereign Emanuel IL, 
when he succeeded in doubling the Cape ; and on his return 
reported the result to the King, who immediately dispatched 
other ships, for the purpose of examining more minutely a place 
which appeared of such great importance in its relation to India. 
On their arrival, they came to anchor in Table Bay, near to 



CH.\P. II. — NATIVE TRIBES AND COLONISTS. 445 

Kobin Island ; and the sailors lowered their boats, and went on 
shore, where they found a barren country, inhabited by wander- 
ing tribes of Hottentots, who were living in a state of extreme 
barbarism. 

Although these early voyages of the Portuguese were generally 
undertaken with a professed regard for God and religion, the 
holy sacrament being frequently administered to the sailors, and 
wooden crosses erected with great pomp where they landed, it 
is lamentable to find that in their general proceedings and treat- 
ment of the natives their conduct was anything but Christian. 
On one occasion, when the Portuguese were on shore at the 
Cape with the natives, a pair of buckles, worn by one of the 
sailors, attracted the attention of the savages. A dispute 
ensued, which ended in a serious quarrel, and a massacre of 
seventy-five persons, among whom were Franciscus de Almyda, 
deputy King of Portugal, and two of his Captains, who were 
shot with poisoned arrows. Some time afterwards a party of 
Portuguese landed at the same place, and knowing that the 
Hottentots were fond of shining ornaments, they took on shore 
with them a beautiful brass cannon, professedly as a present for 
the Chief. To the cannon, which was loaded with musket balls, 
were attached a couple of ropes, that the natives might drag it 
away to their fC great place." Not aware that this beautiful 
shining object was an instrument of destruction, they readily 
took hold of the ropes, and when they were all in a line with 
the mouth of the gun, a person previously appointed for the 
purpose fired it off, when a number of poor hapless people were 
hurried into eternity, whilst the few who escaped fled to the 
mountains in astonishment and dismay. 

Although the Cape of Good Hope was first discovered by the 
Portuguese, it does not appear that they formed any permanent 
settlement there ; but merely used it as a convenient place of 
call and refreshment for their vessels when on their way to and 
from India. It seems also to have been occasionally used by 
the English for the same purpose, inscriptions having been found 
cut in the trees and rocks with the respective dates of 1604, 
1620, and 1622. 

In the year 1652, the Dutch East India Company took formal 



446 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

possession of this part of South Africa. The first Governor 
was Jan Van Riebeek, a man of singular ability and genuine 
piety. As might be expected, under such a leader, every public 
proceeding in connexion with the establishment of the colony 
was sanctified by the word of God and prayer. The memory of 
this good man is still held in high esteem by the inhabitants ; 
and his portrait adorns the Stad-huis, or Town Hall, in Cape 
Town. At an early period of the settlement the celebrated 
castle was erected, as well as several houses on the margin of 
Table Bay. The number of colonists was increased from time 
to time by the arrival of emigrants from Holland ; and although 
quite circumscribed in its limits, the colony enjoyed a consider- 
able measure of prosperity for several years. 

In 1795, the Cape of Good Hope was captured by the 
British, under Sir James Craig ; and, in the month of May, 
1797, Lord Macartney arrived from England to take charge of 
the government. In 1802, the colony was restored to the 
Dutch, at the peace of Amiens ; but, on the breaking out of 
war again, in 1306, it was re-taken by the English, under Sir 
David Baird. Since this period it has continued in our possession, 
and has gradually advanced to its present state of prosperity. 

The boundaries of the Cape Colony have varied considerably 
at different periods. At first they embraced only a very small 
quantity of land in the immediate vicinity of the capital, as 
far as Salt River ; but now the territory claimed by the British 
Government extends from the extreme point of the peninsula 
to the Orange River, as stated in a former chapter, a distance 
of six hundred miles on the Western Coast, and to the 
Keiskamma river, an equal distance on the Eastern Coast. Be- 
yond these limits lie British Kaffraria, recently annexed to the 
Cape Colony, the Colony of Natal, the Orange Eree State, the 
Transvaal Republic, Kaffirland, Basutuland, Griqualand, Na- 
maqualand, and Damaraland, as briefly described in the last 
chapter. We now proceed to give some account of the people 
inhabiting these countries, as preparatory to a narrative of the 
in.3ans which have been adopted to promote their spiritual 
interests, and to raise them to a higher state of civilization, as 
well as of social and moral excellencv. 



CHAP. II.— NATIVE TRIBES AND COLONISTS. 447 

Diversified as are the inhabitants of Southern Africa, they 
may all with propriety be classified under the following general 
heads, namely : — Hottentots, Kaffirs, Negroes, Malays, and 
European settlers. 

HOTTENTOTS. 

The real aborigines of the Cape of Good Hope are undoubt- 
edly the deeply degraded race called Hottentots, whose origin 
and early history are involved in much obscurity. Some African 
"travellers and ethnologists have expressed the Opinion that, 
from the resemblance of this singular section of the human race, 
in complexion and features, to the Chinese and the ancient 
Egyptians, they must all have had one common origin and 
home ; and that the progenitors of the Hottentot race must, at 
a remote period, have come from the valley of the Nile, and, by 
degrees, have travelled the whole length of the continent. Be 
this as it may, there is no doubt but this tribe of Africans, like 
many others, has undergone considerable change since the coun- 
try was first visited by Europeans. 

The Hottentots of the Cape are generally short and slender 
in their persons, of yellowish complexion, high cheek-bones, 
short forehead, and woolly hair, thinly growing in short knobs, 
and scarcely covering the head. In disposition they are mild 
and timid ; and, although deeply degraded, they are not by 
any means so stupid as some have represented them to be. 
They possess a tolerable share of native talent, but they lack 
energy to call it into action. They are proverbially indolent ; 
and, in their natural state, eating and sleeping appear to be the 
objects of their highest ambition. They are, nevertheless, easily 
trained to any kind of light labour and domestic duties. They 
make excellent shepherds and house servants, and are very 
useful to the farmers, amongst whom they chiefly reside. When 
brought under the influence of religion, they are readily im- 
pressed with the truth ; and we have known many of them who 
have not only spoken the English or Dutch language with 
fluency, but have learned to read the Scriptures for themselves, 
to pray to God, and to worship in His sanctuary with a solemnity 
and decorum which might put to shame many professing Chris- 



448 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

tians of other lands, who live in the habitual neglect of these 
sacred duties. A few* also from among these poor outcasts 
have been raised to the higher work of preaching the Gospel to 
their fellow-countrymen. 

There are now very few real Hottentots remaining at the Cape. 
They have, to a considerable extent, become amalgamated with 
other native hordes, or with the descendants of the original Dutch 
settlers, and form distinct classes of people yet to be described. 
The few who still continue unmixed with other tribes are to be 
found in small detached settlements, far from the abodes of 
civilized men, at the respective Mission Stations, or in the ser- 
vice of the Dutch Boers. Perhaps, properly speaking, the wan- 
dering tribes of Bushmen found in the interior are almost the 
only remaining representatives of the original unmixed Hot- 
tentot race. These are certainly the most abject and miserable 
specimens of humanity that we ever beheld, in any country. 
They are extremely diminutive of stature, — some of them stand- 
ing not more than three or four feet high, — and remarkably thin 
and haggard in their appearance. They wander about in the 
desert, destitute of clothing, save a piece of sheepskin thrown 
round the waist, with their bows and poisoned arrows stuck in 
the hair of their heads ; and obtain a miserable subsistence from 
the uncertain produce of the chase, roots which they dig up, 
and the larvae of ants, with an occasional treat of locusts and 
wild honey. Bushmen never cultivate the ground ; neither do 
they possess cattle, unless we make an exception in some cases 
where a few goats may be kept. 

The Hottentot language is a strange gibberish, and very 
difficult for an European to learn, unless he is accustomed to 
hear it from his childhcod. Almost all the monosyllables, and 
the leading syllables in compound words, are thrown out of the 
mouth with a sudden retraction of the tongue from the teeth to 
the palate, and sound not unlike the clacking of a hen with her 
chickens. These strange clicks are, nevertheless, arranged 
according to rule, and must occur at the proper place, or the 
sense of the word is entirely spoiled. Difficult as this language 
is, it has, notwithstanding, been reduced to a grammatical form. 
by the Missionaries. Some portions of Scripture have been 



CHAP. II. — NATIVE TRIBES AND COLONISTS. 449 

translated into it, and the Gospel has been preached to this 
degraded people, in some places, in their own tongue. 

The Xamaquas, who occupy a large tract of country already 
described, are evidently a branch of the Hottentot family. 
Having for generations past come in contact and, to some 
extent, intermixed with other tribes of men, they now appear 
much superior to the parent race from which they have descended. 
They possess the same general complexion, cast of countenance, 
and outline of feature ; but are taller, and more independent in 
their bearing. The Namaquas resident within the Cape Colony 
have generally become civilized. They cultivate the ground, 
possess herds of cattle, waggons, and horses ; and, in the know- 
ledge of letters, and other branches of general information, 
they have, in some instances, got in advance of their neighbours, 
the Dutch Boers, as will be seen when we come to speak of 
Mission stations established among them. In Great Namaqua- 
land, beyond the colonial boundary, the people are less advanced, 
inasmuch as they have not been favoured with the same privi- 
leges, and occupy a country where agriculture is almost out of 
the question. They, nevertheless, own extensive herds of cattle, 
and waggons, with which they move about from place to place, 
as the state of the pastures and the seasons require. This 
interesting people are divided into numerous petty tribes, under 
the leadership of separate Chiefs or Captains, and will come 
under our notice again in the course of our narrative. 

The Korannas, another branch of the Hottentot family, 
resemble the Xamaquas in the leading features of their cha- 
racter and condition, and therefore do not call for a separate 
description to any great extent. They live in small detached 
tribes, under separate petty Chiefs, in the same manner as their 
neighbours ; and wander about with flocks and herds over an 
extensive tract of country, lying between Griqualand on the 
east, and Xamaqualand on the west. It is a very easy matter 
with these people to remove a town or a village ; for they can 
take to pieces their spiral-shaped huts, made of sticks and mats, 
in a few minutes, pack them on the backs of their oxen, with 
their other goods and chattels, and march off to their next 
encampment. Their cultivation is limited almost entirely to 

G G 



450 PATtT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

the native tobacco plant, with sometimes a little maize, pump- 
kins, or melons ; and they subsist chiefly upon the milk of their 
flocks, with an occasional feast of animal food taken from the 
fold or procured by the chase. My friend, George Thompson, 
Esq., who travelled among the Korannas many years ago, thus 
describes a party of them whom he saw : — " They were mise- 
rable-looking beings, emaciated and lank, with the withered 
skin hanging in folds on their sides ; while a belt bound tight 
round their bodies indicated that they were suffering, like 
myself, from long privation of food. I attempted to make 
them understand by signs that I was in want of provisions, and 
would gladly purchase some ; but they replied in a language 
which could not be misunderstood by shaking their heads, and 
pointing to the girdle of famine tied round their stomachs." 

The Griquas are a mixed race of Hottentot descent on the 
mother's side, whilst they claim paternal relationship originally 
to the Dutch Boers. They are a numerous and respectable 
tribe of natives, and occupy an extensive tract of country along 
the northern bank of the Orange River, under their own inde- 
pendent Chiefs. Under the instructions of the Missionaries, 
the Griquas have risen to a pleasing state of civilization ; and 
some of the most intelligent and wealthy among them own 
good farms and extensive herds and flocks. A similar class of 
people are found in various parts of the colony, dispersed 
among the farmers, known by the uncouth name of "Bastards, 5 ' 
a separate description of whom is unnecessary. 

In addition to the different tribes of people already men- 
tioned as "being in some measure of Hottentot descent, we have 
in the colonial towns and villages a number of coloured persons, 
many of whom are intelligent and truly respectable. They 
follow various branches of trade, and are useful members of 
civil society. Those who are brought under the influence of 
religion, are generally very active in the cause of the Redeemer, 
and are useful members of different branches of the Christian 
Church. 

KAFFIRS. 
The name Kaffir is somewhat vague and indefinite in its sig- 



CHAP. II. — NATIVE TRIBES AND COLONISTS. 451 

nification. It simply means " infidel," or " unbeliever ; " and in 
[Mohammedan countries is applied exclusively to all who are 
not Mussulmans. In relation to Africa, however, the term has 
become applicable of late years to a numerous and powerful race 
of people inhabiting the south-eastern coast. Very little is 
known of the origin and early history of this people. It is 
generally admitted, however, that the country which they now 
occupy has not been their home for many generations, and that 
they must have originally come from the northward. They are 
much superior in their personal appearance, and in their mental 
qualities, to most of the other African tribes. They are thus 
described by the traveller Barrow, " There is perhaps not any 
nation under heaven that can produce so fine a race of men as 
the Kaffirs. They are tall, stout, muscular, well-made, elegant 
figures. Their countenance is ever indicative of cheerfulness 
and contentment. Their skin, which verges towards black, and 
their short curly hair, are rubbed over with a solution of red 
ochre, which produces an appearance far from disagreeable. 3 ' 
The persons of the women are not so handsome. Accustomed 
to field labour, as well as to domestic drudgery, the ladies are 
masculine and robust in their appearance, and generally of 
short stature, as compared with their lords. The colour of 
their eyes is sparkling jet, whilst their teeth are pearly white 
and remarkably regular. Although the Kaffir is of similar 
complexion to the Negro, he has neither the thick lips nor the 
fiat nose which distinguish the inhabitants of the higher regions 
of the continent. 

The carosse, or mantle of tanned skins, is the chief article of 
dress used by both sexes among the Kaffirs. That of the 
females is distinguished by a thong of leather suspended from 
the shoulder, and loaded with ornaments of various kinds. In 
addition to the carosse, the females wear a kind of petticoat 
made of leather, and a small apron fringed with beads. Indeed, 
they are passionately fond of ornaments of all kinds ; and we 
have seen them literally loaded with beads of various sizes and 
colour. They also use buttons, buckles, iron and copper rings, 
for the same purpose. The Kaffir Chief wears a carosse of 
tiger, or more properly speaking, leopard skin, a kind of 

2 g 2 



43 2 PAET III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

garb which no person of 

In addition to this mark of" royalty, he carries, or has carried 
before him, an elephant's tail, vrhich is equivalent to the i 
sceptre in more civilize:! countries. Like most of the other 
native tribes of South Africa, the Kaffirs live in huts formed of 
Sticks, and made water-tight with rash matting, in shape resem- 
bling beehives, and easily moved from place to place. 

As they occupy a country which is better adapted for agri- 
cultural purposes than many other parts rf Southern Africa, 
the Kaffirs pay more attention tc the cultivation of the soil 
than most other native tribes. Whilst the men and t jys re 
engage I in attending to the cattle, the women and girls build 
the huts, cultivate the groan nufs stare earthen pots, and con- 

struct baskets of the Cyprus grass. They plant most extensively 
the Kaffir eorn, which is a species of millet, also maize, kidney- 
beans, pumpkins. Indian corn, and water melons. The m 
mode of preparing the « For seed, by the use of a wooden 

hoe. is very rude and simple ; but of late years many improve- 
ments have been intrc ] ■ the Missionaries. When they 
first beheld the plough in operation, they gazed at each other 
with blank astonishment. At length an old Chief, recovering 
from his amazement, broke the siience by exclaiming with 
delight, " See how too thing tears r: the ground with its 
month : it is of into- value than rive vrives ! ' ; 

The food of the Katoirs. ana their m: tie of living, is ver 
simple. They seldom take more than two meals a day. These 
consist thiefiy of boiled eorn ana mum wim slight :u tain rations 
according to circumstances. Tuey se.dtm eat animal :::a. 
except on the occasions cf great festivals: then they 
an enormous quantity, ana abandon tnemselves to a life of 
dissipation for several lays ttgether. K:mr Veer is marie 
with an infusion of millet which has undergone a regular 
process of drying, griaciug. b tiling, ana fermenting, some- 
what after the plan of preparing malt in covinzeal inuutroes, 
and is very intoxicating. Tobaeto ana sunn are tn atgb 
estimation; tae truer tae; smoke t :t a highly finished 
wooden pipe, and the latter they convey ti tuetr arstemka 
nostrils, not with the ringer and thumb, which they w: 



CHAP. II. — NATIVE TKIBES A>~D COLONISTS. 453 

consider vulgar, but with a small iron or ivory spoon, which they 
carry stuck in their hair for the purpose. 

Those who have been most intimately acquainted with the 
various Kaffir tribes, have not discovered among them any 
traces of a religious system, properly so called, either idolatrous 
or otherwise, or anything deserving the name of religious rites 
•or ceremonies. The nearest approach to it is the practice of 
throwing, each person, a stone to certain heaps which they pass 
when on a journey; but this appears to be done either in 
memory of the dead, or with a superstitious notion of securing 
safety while travelling. Circumcision is universally practised ; 
but no religious idea is associated with the ceremony. They 
have a vague notion of a Supreme Being, whom they call 
Uhlanga or Utixo, and of a future state of being, but no notion 
of rewards or punishments. They believe in witchcraft ; and the 
rain-makers and witch-doctors drive a very profitable trade 
among their* deluded fellow-countrymen. 

This brief description of the appearance, and manners, and 
customs of the Kaffirs will generally apply to the bold and war- 
like people which bear that name. But it must be remembered 
that they exist in a great variety of tribes, under their para- 
mount and petty Chiefs, scattered over a vast extent of country, 
although they speak the same language, in dialects with shades 
•of difference one from the other. We already have some know- 
ledge of the following tribes : namely, the Amakosa * Kaffirs, 
including the minor tribes of Gaika, Slambie, Gonubi, and 
some others living in British Kaffraria ; Ainagaleka, beyond the 
Great Kei; Amatembu, or Tambookies, in Kaffirland proper ; 
Amaponda, between the Bashee and the Umzimculu; Ama- 
baxa, north and east of the latter ; Amalunga, in Xatal, and on 
the northern border; Amazulu, east of Xatal; Amazwasi, near 
Delagoa Bay ; Amatabile, south of the Zambezi, under ALoseli- 
katse ; Amatengu, or lingoes, once living in a state of slavery 
among the other Kaffir tribes, but freed by the British, and 
now living in locations provided for them in the Cape Colony. 
In addition to these there are other tribes of natives in South 
Africa of kindred character, and which might come under the 
* The prefix Ama signifies " people M or " tribe." 



454 PAST III. — THE DAM Dl SOOI DOES. 

general head of Kaffirs, but which, nei n, have some 

shades of difference, and seem to require a brief separate notice. 

We refer to the tribes which speak the Sechuana langM _ -. 
which differs considerably frem the Kaffir proper, although it 
may perhaps be traced to the s?. ne origin. Hub class includes 
the Basutus, north-wes: : : the Maluti mountains ; the Bechuanas, 
north of the Orange Hirer; and the Batclaps Bamungwatas, 
Bakweins, Makolola. Sec, north and west of the Boer Republic, 
and the Taal and Orange Rivers. The most powerful of these 
tribes in the neighbourhood of the Cape Colony, is the Basutus, 
under the paramount Chief Moshesh. These people have made 
considerable progress in the arts of civilized life, under the 
direction of their Missionaries ; and the old Chief himsel: i 
remarkable instance of native talent, shrewdness, and sagacity. 
The Basutus will give to the world an interesting specimen of 
the ability of the African for self-government and advancement 
in civilization, if they be protected, and not crushed by their 
neighbours of fairer complexion. 

The Damaras and Ovampos. to the north of Great Xamaqua- 
land, form another branch of this extensive family of South 
African tribes. These people sf e ak a I a n go a ge somewhat different 
to those already mentioned ; and yet it is no doubt traceable to 
the same fountain. 

NEGROES. 

Many of the native tribes of South Africa already mentioned 
are of jet black complexion ; and some of them, : = the Damaras, 
for instance, whose home is in the far north, possess ::ier 
features which distinguish the Xegro character. A few indi- 
viduals from these remote regions rind their way to the Cape 
Colony in the service of African traders, and never return- 
But in addition to these there are a considerable number of real 
Negroes and their descendants resident at the Cape, who have 
been rescued from slavers by British men-of-war. whilst musing 
chiefly off the eastern coast, in the Mozambique Channel. These 
liberated Africans have been brought to the Cape at different 
times, and have found employment as domestic servai::s. G sfaflfe 
men, and field labourers, in which capacities they have been. 



CHAP. IT. — NATIVE TEIBES AND COLONISTS. 45 5 

very useful to the community. They are now found dispersed 
over various parts of the colony, and many of them have been 
brought under religious influences, and have become sober and 
industrious citizens. 

MALAYS. 

In addition to the various tribes of natives and other coloured 
inhabitants of the Cape Colony already mentioned, there is a nu- 
merous class of people called Malays. Their origin is to be traced 
to an early period of the possession of the colony by the Dutch. 
The Cape being a convenient place of call in voyages between 
Europe and India, a few Dutch settlers arrived there from 
Batavia as early as 165 2, bringing their Malay servants with 
them. Slavery had existed for some time previously at Java ; 
but it is said that most of the natives of the east who were first 
brought to South Africa came as free servants, and were regis- 
tered as slaves on their arrival at the Cape. Be this as it may, 
there is no doubt but the number of Malays was subsequently 
increased by additional importations at various times, and under 
various circumstances. Government documents of 1710 record 
the introduction of convicts from Java and Ceylon, and the 
names of a number of persons are given who were employed on 
the public works, under sentence of banishment, some of whom 
were afterwards pardoned, and intermixed with this class of 
the inhabitants. In 17:2 5, several Chiefs of Java were banished 
to the Cape, as a punishment for the part they had taken in a 
grand conspiracy for destroying Dutch dominion by the slaughter 
of every Christian in the island. Again, in 1737, and in 1749, 
a number of Malays of distinction were sentenced to exile, and 
brought to the colony as state prisoners.* In the year 1521, a 

* One of these was regarded as an eminent saint, and to him some won- 
derful miracles were attributed. Amongst other supernatural feats, he is said 
to have saved from destruction the crew and passengers of the ship which 
conveyed him to Africa, by converting the sea water into pure water, when 
the ship's supply of the latter was exhausted. This distinguished personage 
was buried on his own estate near Stellenbosch, now the property of Mr. 
Cloete of Sandneet ;. and his mausoleum, which is regarded with veneration, 
and kept in good repair, is visited as a shrine by multitudes of Malay 
pilgrims from various parts of the country. 



456 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

number of distinguished Arabs from the island of Joanna, in 
the Mozambique Channel, visited the colony, some of whom 
adopted the country as their future home, being kindly received 
by their brethren of the same religious faith, and ultimately 
amalgamated with them. 

From all these sources, with the occasional arrival of Malay 
slaves with their masters from the east, the present race of 
Malays has sprung ; and being all rigid Mohammedans, they 
have readily amalgamated, and form a distinct class of people, 
notwithstanding the shades of difference in their national origin. 
A large proportion of them were in a state of bondage, in 
common with many other black and coloured inhabitants of the 
Cape Colony, till the general emancipation throughout the 
British empire, in 1834, when they were all made free. A very 
few of the modern Malays are the children of Java-born parents, 
the greater proportion of them having descended from parents 
born in the colony. There are a few families who pride them- 
selves in being Malay- Arabian in their descent, whilst several 
more of the present generation are the immediate offspring of 
female slaves and Dutch masters. 

In personal appearance the Cape Malays differ from any 
other class of inhabitants. They are generally of middle 
stature, and of slight but sinewy frame ; their eyes are small 
and sparkling ; their hair black and silky ; their features are 
slightly compressed, but expressive, whilst the face is some- 
what elongated, and oval-shaped. The complexion varies from 
a yellow or light brown, to a deep olive. The men cut close 
the hair of the head, but allow the moustache and beard to 
grow, trimming the latter into a peculiar peaked form. The 
head-dress of the Malay man is a small, closely-tied turban of 
crimson cloth ; his other covering, a neck-scarf, a vest of gay 
colours, a long jacket, and wide trousers. Out of doors he 
wears a hat of pyramidal shape, made of the palm-leafed grass, 
over his cap of crimson. Some of the Priests, and all who 
have achieved a pilgrimage to Mecca, affect an oriental dress, 
— cashmere shawls, massy turbans, and long flowing robes of 
printed cotton or silk. The women wear their hair in tresses, 
which are long, black, and glossy; brushed back from the 



CHAP. II. — NATIVE TRIBES AND COLONISTS. 457 

temples, and fastened behind the head by a large gold or 
silver bodkin. Their dress, which on gala days is of silk or 
other expensive material, (but ordinarily of cotton,) differs 
from that of European females, in having a short body or 
spencer of a different colour from the wide skirt, to which it 
is attached. They never wear bonnets, hats, or other covering 
for their heads, nor does a vestige of the eastern custom of 
veiling remain with them. In choice of colours and arrange- 
ment they often display considerable taste, and appreciation of 
effect ; their well chosen and somewhat showy attire adding 
a charm to their personal graces. Their figures are generally 
good, and their features not devoid of comeliness. 

The food of the Malays consists chiefly of fish and rice, and 
occasionally of flesh, meat, and different kinds of vegetables. 
Of pork, however, they dare not partake, nor yet of any 
animal which has not been killed by a Priest, who, in slaughter- 
ing, performs a certain ceremony, which is considered of great 
importance by the people. Every butcher in Cape Town is 
obliged to keep a Malay Priest in his pay, who comes daily to 
the shambles to attend to this duty, or he would not be able to 
sell any meat to this class of the community. 

As no distinction is made between this and other classes of 
coloured persons, when the census is taken, we cannot state the 
certain number of Malays which there are in the Cape Colony ; 
but from a careful calculation we think they cannot be 
fewer than ten thousand ; seven thousand of whom may reside 
in Cape Town, whilst the remainder are scattered abroad, in 
different towns and villages, chiefly of the Western Province. 
The Malays are industrious and thrifty in their habits ; and 
many of them have acquired considerable property by dint of 
persevering efforts. They make good mechanics, coachmen, 
gardeners, and fishermen ; and we have generally found them 
civil and respectful when in our employ. 

Although strict Mohammedans, polygamy is not generally 
practised by them. They abstain from the use of wine and 
spirituous liquors, but are fond of trips of pleasure into the 
country ; and it is a pleasant sight on a Monday to see waggon 
loads of men, women, and children driving off for a holiday. 



458 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

In Cape Town, Claremont, and some other places, mosques or 
places of worship have been erected, where the Malays attend 4 
for service in considerable numbers, on Fridays, and on their 
festivals. The Priests w 7 ho officiate on these occasions are 
generally more or less acquainted with Arabic, and chant their 
prayers and portions of the Alkoran with considerable fluency. 
They are very far from being united in their views and efforts, 
however, being divided into five different sects, which regard 
each other with feelings of bitter jealousy. With a view to 
unite and further instruct the Mohammedans of the Cape of 
Good Hope in the doctrines of Islamism, the Ottoman Govern- 
ment sent out, a few years ago, a distinguished Effendi from 
Constantinople, named Abou Beker ; but his mission has 
hitherto been apparently fruitless, several of the Priests 
resisting his authority with the utmost pertinacity, even to 
the extent of actions at law. 

It has often been matter of regret to strangers visiting the 
Cape, to see so little direct effort put forth by Christian 
Ministers and people for the conversion of the Malays of Cape 
Town ; but the fact is, that far more has been done, and is now 
being done, than mere visitors are aware of. Distinct and 
separate Missions have repeatedly been organized for their 
special benefit ; but they have invariably been met with the 
most determined resistance and opposition, by both Priests and 
people, till they have been necessarily relinquished. Several of 
the Missionaries and philanthropists of the Cape have come to 
the conclusion, after many years' experience, that the best means 
of benefitting the Malays, and winning them over to the faith 
and practice of Christianity, are those which are most private, 
silent, and quiet in their operation, as Mission schools, 
Christian kindness, incidental conversation, and holy living. 
These means we have known to be very beneficial, and have 
witnessed some interesting instances of conversion from the 
ranks of the false prophet to the faith of the Gospel.* 

* Por further information in reference to this interesting people, see an 
able pamphlet by John S. Mayson, Esq., of Manchester, on " The Malays of 
Cape Town, South Africa," being the result of inquiries made by him when 
on a visit to the Cape of Good Hope, in the year 1854, when the writer 
had the pleasure of his personal acquaintance. 



CHAP. II. — NATIVE TEIBE3 AND COLONISTS. 459 

EUROPEAN COLONISTS. 
We now corae to notice that portion of the population 
of the Cape Colony which is of fairer complexion, and 
whose on'o-in is to be traced to the north ; thev or 

O 'ml 

their ancestors having at different periods emigrated 
from the various countries of Europe, and made this their 
adopted country. The first class of "pale-faced strangers" 
who visited the country for the purpose of forming a perma- 
nent settlement were the Dutch. The Portuguese had been 
there before, but they soon took their departure. About the 
middle of the sixteenth century the Dutch took formal 
possession of the country, from which period, notwithstanding 
the changes which have taken place in the form of govern- 
ment, they have been the most numerous class of European 
colonists. They are to be found in every part of Southern 
Africa ; but more especially in the Trans- Vaal Republic, in the 
Orange Free State, and in the Western Province of the Cape 
Colony, where their language prevails to a considerable extent 
among all classes of the community. The favourite occupation 
of the Dutch is farming : many of them, having obtained grants 
of extensive tracts of land at an early period, when it was con- 
sidered of little value, have become quite wealthy, and live in 
the midst of plenty, after their rude fashion. The Dutch 
"Boers," as the farmers are invariably called, are remarkable 
for their hospitality to strangers, if favourably impressed with 
their character, and the object of their visit. In order to 
arrive at a right conclusion on these points, they scan the 
traveller with a keen eye as he approaches their dwellings ; 
and, before he has time to alight from his horse or vehicle, the 
patriarch of the family generally proposes to him three import- 
ant questions at one breath, which he is expected to answer 
without equivocation; namely, " Wie ben u?" " Waar /com 
u van daan ? " " Waar ga u?" That is, in plain English, 
" Who are you ?" " Where do you come from ? " " Where are you 
going?" If the answer to these queries is satisfactory, the 
farmer says, " Kom binnen" that is, "Come in," and from 
henceforth the traveller is heartily welcome. Beside the Boers 
who reside in the interior, and in the rural districts, there are 



460 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

a number of Dutch gentlemen to be found in the towns and 
villages of the Cape Colony who occupy prominent positions as 
Ministers, physicians, lawyers, government officers, and mer- 
chants; and our intercourse with many of them is remembered 
with pleasure. 

Since the Cape Colony became a permanent appendage to the 
British crown at an early period of the present century, the 
number of English settlers has been every year increasing ; but 
the largest accession to this class of colonists was made in the 
year 1820, when several thousands arrived in the course of a 
few months, and were located in Albany and other parts of the 
Eastern Province. That large importation of the British element, 
with subsequent emigration on a smaller and more gradual scale, 
has rendered South-Eastern Africa more English in its character 
than any other portion of the great continent. In the stores 
of Port Elizabeth and Graham's Town, and on many of the farms 
in the rural districts of the eastern frontier, the English traveller 
might almost imagine himself back again in his own country. 
And of late years the English element in Cape Town and its 
vicinity has rapidly increased ; so that everywhere the English 
language is daily spoken, and our countrymen are found occupy- 
ing every possible position in the social scale, from the Governor 
of the colony to the meanest artisan. 

There are also at the Cape, as in most of the colonies of the 
British empire, a considerable number of Scotch and Irish 
settlers, located in different parts of the country, who are noted 
for their industrious and thrifty habits. The largest number of 
either of these classes of colonists which has ever arrived at one 
time was the Scottish party of British settlers, who came out in 
1820 under Mr. Pringle, the celebrated poet of South Africa. 
These settled at a place called Glen Lyden, and, although their 
descendants became scattered in after years, they and their 
enterprising countrymen who have emigrated at different times 
form an important part of the European community of the Cape 
Colony. 

In addition to the various classes of inhabitants already men- 
tioned, we have at the Cape of Good Hope a considerable num- 
ber of Trench, Germans, and other persons belonging to different 



CHAP. II. — NAT1YE TRIBES AND COLONISTS. 461 

continental nations, a particular description of whom is not 
necessary. At an early period of the history of the Cape Colony, 
on the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, a number of French 
Protestant refugees emigrated to South Africa, that they might 
have the privilege of worshipping God according to the dictates 
of their own conscience. These were located by the Dutch 
Government in a fertile valley called Fransche Hoek, or " French 
Corner," a spot which we remember well, and which has been 
rendered additionally interesting by one of the beautiful sonnets 
of the poet Pringle. These early French settlers addicted them- 
selves to the cultivation of the vine, for which the climate and 
the soil were found congenial. Their descendants have become, 
to a considerable extent, amalgamated with the Dutch portion 
of the community ; but the French element of society has 
been replenished by more recent arrivals from Europe at differ- 
ent times. 

At the close of the Crimean war, when the German legions 
were disbanded, a large number of the soldiers accepted an offer 
which was made to them of a free passage to the Cape of Good 
Hope, and grants of land on the eastern frontier, to be held on 
condition of military service rendered for the defence of the 
colony. Although the settlement of these Germans does not 
appear to have answered its intended purpose, the people having 
become much scattered, it added largely to this particular portion 
of the European population, and furnished a number of indus- 
trious artisans at a time when they were much required. 

Thus diversified in national origin, complexion, language, and 
circumstances, is the population of Southern Africa, both native 
and European, upon whose temporal and eternal interests the 
labours of the Missionary and philanthropist are brought to 
bear. Surely a more important and interesting field of enter- 
prise cannot be found in any other part of the world. 

From the perusal of the following chapters the reader will be 
able to form some idea of what has already been done to supply 
the spiritual necessities of the inhabitants of Southern Africa, 
and of what still remains to be done in order to make adequate 
provision for their religious instruction. 



462 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 



CHAPTER III. 

WESLEYAN MISSIONS. 

British Settlers — Rev. William Shaw — Stations in Albany — Kaffir Mission 
— Bechuana Mission — Cape of Good Hope District — Rev. Barnabas 
Shaw — Little Namaqualand Mission — Rev. E. Edwards — Missionary 
Journeys — Progress of the work at Khamiesberg — Great Xamaqualand 
Mission — Rev. W. Threlfall — Jacob Links — Johannes Jager — Mis- 
sionary Martyrs — Execution of the Murderer — Damara Mission — Cape 
Town and neighbouring Stations — Rev. R. Snowdall — Rev. T. L. 
Hodgson. 

At an early period of the colonial history of the Cape of 
Good Hope, the wretched condition of the native tribes, and 
the spiritual destitution of the European settlers, attracted the 
attention of the friends of Missions ; and it is a pleasing fact 
that, at the present time, a larger number of Missionary agents 
are employed in Southern Africa than in any other portion of 
the globe of the same extent. As in many other instances, so in 
this, the Moravians had the honour of being first in the field, 
the Rev. George Schmidt having gone out as early as 1737; 
and, notwithstanding many interruptions at first, their humble 
and unassuming labours have been made a great blessing to the 
Hottentots and other native tribes among whom their Missions 
have been planted. Their first station was Genadendal, (the 
Vale of Grace,) about one hundred miles from Cape Town, where 
a large pear tree is still shown, said to have been planted by the 
Missionary just named. In 1799, the eccentric but zealous Dr. 
Vanderkemp commenced his labours in Kafnrland, in the service 
of the London Missionary Society ; and, in after years, he was 
followed by a host of Missionaries from the same institution, 
who laid the foundation of a great and good work in various 
parts of the country, which has continued to prosper to the pre- 
sent time. It was not until the year 1814 that the ATesleyan 
Missionary Society was in a position to take its share in the 



CHAP. III. — WESLEYAN MISSIONS. 463 

evangelization of Southern Africa ; but since that period it has 
been second to none in the zealous and successful prosecution 
of the great and glorious work. More recently the great field 
has been entered by the agents of the Scottish, Rhenish, Berlin, 
Paris, and Hamburg Missionary Societies, all of whom have 
laboured with more or less success, whilst the English and Dutch 
Reformed Churches have awaked up and manifested a degree of 
earnestness in the diffusion of the Gospel unknown in former 
times. But, notwithstanding the exertions of these multiplied 
agencies, there is a loud call for much more being done before 
the claims of this vast continent can be fully met. 

In giving a brief historical sketch of the labours of the Wes- 
leyan Missionary Society in Southern Africa, it may be con- 
venient to begin with the Eastern Province of the Cape Colony, 
and the efforts which have been made to civilize the Kaffir hordes 
inhabiting the south-eastern coast, although these were not the 
portions of the field first occupied by its agents. 

In the year 1820, a plan having been formed by the British 
Government to send out about four thousand English emigrants, 
to occupy an extensive country north of Algoa Bay, the Rev. 
William Shaw, with Mrs. Shaw, embarked with a party of Wes- 
ley ans, Mr. Shaw having been appointed as their Chaplain or 
Minister, according to a previous arrangement. The settlers 
had many difficulties to contend with, at an early period of their 
African experience, from unpropitious seasons, the failure of their 
crops, and other disappointments, in all of which their faithful 
Pastor shared with them without complaint, being in labours more 
abundant to supply them with the bread of life. The first two 
or three years of Mr. Shaw's ministerial life in Southern Africa 
were spent chiefly in itinerating, visiting, and preaching among 
the British settlers at their respective locations in Upper and 
Lower Albany ; and he was favoured to realize a pleasing mea- 
sure of success. These unwearied efforts resulted in the forma- 
tion of stations, societies, and Sunday schools, and the erection 
of substantial chapels in Graham's Town, Port Elizabeth, Salem, 
Bathurst, and other places; and thus the foundation was laid, 
broad and deep, of a work in the Eastern Province of the Cape 
Colony, which has been growing and expanding ever since. 



464 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

In after years, interesting and prospe Stations 

were established at Uitenhage, Fort Beaufort, Heald 7 
Peddie, Somerset (East), Newton Dale, Annshavr. King Wil- 
liam's Town, and other places, into the history of which 
cannot here enter. On the return to England of the Rer. W. 
Shaw, for the second time, in 1858, he was succeeded in his 
office as Chairman and General Superintendent by the Rev. TV. 
Impey, who still worthily fills that honourable position. The 
Graham's Town District now numbers i m ~ ■-- M 
sixty chapeh, one hundred and twenty-tight 
and nearly four thousand church members^ hoc thai 
and nineteen thousand attendants on '.' : 

Considering the character of Methodism, and the noble nal 
of her pioneer Missionary to South-Eastern Africa, we are not 
surprised to learn that, from his first landing on the shares : : 
that far-off country. Mr. Shaw's heart yearned over the degraded 
natives with whom he came in contact ; and he neglected no 
opportunity which presented itself of instructing the Hottentots, 
half-castes, and other coloured persons who resided in the neigh- 
bourhood of the respective stations which he occupied. But 
this could not satisfy a heart so large, and a zeal so ardent, 
whilst tens of thousands of dark benighted Kaffirs \ dling 

in the regions of the shadow of death, without any adequate pro- 
vision being made for their spiritual necessities. Al length the 
favourable time came when all was quiet and peace on the frontier, 
and when, with the sanction of the Missionary Committee and the 
Colonial Government, the Missionary made his first tour of ol ser- 
ration into Kaffirland, preparatory to the formation of the ;: first 
link in a chain of stations" along the extensive coast on which he 
had set his heart from the beginning. In these early efforts to 
benefit Kaffraria, Mr. Shaw was nobly aided by Mr. William 
Shepstone, who was raised up from among the British settlers, 
and called not only to preach the Gospel to his own countrymen 
in the land of their adoption, but also to proclaim the glad tid- 
ings of salvation to the untutored Kaffirs in the region beyond. 

The Mission in Albany having been reinforced by the arrival 
of the Rev. S. Kay from England, Mr. Shaw lefr that station 
in charge of his colleague, and removed to Kaffraria with his 



CHAP. III. — WSSLBTAN MISSIONS. 465 

family in November, 18 23. Having fixed upon a suitable 
locality for a Mission village in the territory of the paramount 
Chief Gaika, and near to the residence of Pa to, he proceeded 
to establish the first station, which was called Wesley viile, in 
honour of the founder of Methodism. Many changes have 
i place in Kafnrland since this humble commencement of 
the good work ; but Wesleyville still continues to be an impor- 
tant station ; and it has, no doubt, been the spiritual birthplace 
of many precious souls. 

In the year 18:25, the second station in Kafnrland was com- 
menced by Mr. Kay, the Eev. Samuel Young and the Eev. W« 
J. Davis having arrived from England to occupy the colonial 
Circuit. This new establishment received the appropriate name 
of Mount Coke. This station has also had to pass through 
variov itndes, and to be removed to a better site, the first 

locality having been found unsuitable for the purposes of the 
Mission. At an early period this Mission rose to a pleasing 
state of prosperity under the judicious management of the Eev. 
S. Young ; and after it had been desolated by the Kaffir war, 
it was recommenced by the Eev. W. Impey. For many years 
past Mount Coke has been honoured by being the site of the 
Mission printing establishment, under the able superintendence 
of the Eev. J. TV. Appleyard. 

The third Wesleyan Mission station in Kafnrland was com- 
menced in 182 7, with the Chief Hintza, by the Eev. W. J. 
Shrewsbury, who went out to Southern Africa after his return 
from the West Indies. This establishment was called Butter- 
worth, in memory of the honoured Treasurer of the Society. 
It has been repeatedly destroyed in the Kaffir wars; but it has 
always been rebuilt afterwards, and has proved a great blessing 
to the people. 

In IS 2 9, another step in advance was taken by the com- 
mencement, by the Eev. TV. Shepstone, of the fourth Kaffir 
Mission, called Morley. This Mission was to a peculiar tribe 
of people under a Chief called Dapa. From their compara- 
tively light complexion and sharp features, as well as from the 
traditions preserved among them, they appear to have descended 
from some survivors of the ship c{ Grosvenor/ 5 which was 

H H 



466 PAHT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

wrecked on this per; of the coast of Kaffirland, about the year 
1745. Dapa's mother was said to have been a white woman 
of this party ; but no very satisfactory account could ever be col- 
lected on the spot concerning this singular incident. In the 
establishment of this station, Mr. Shepstone was assisted by 
Mr. Robinson, a pious young Englishman, who was killed by 
the sudden fall of a tree which he was felling for timber for the 
Mission buildings. In IS 6 5, it was found necessary to remove 
this station to another site, the former place having proved very 
unhealthy. New Morley is situated on a ridge in the centre 
of a fertile valley, with a splendid prospect in every direction. 

The fifth station in Kaffirland was commenced by the Eev. 
B. Haddy, in 1S30, and was called Clarkebury, in honour of 
the learned Divine and Commentator. It is a remarkable cir- 
cumstance that the only two Europeans employed on our Mis- 
sions in Kaffirland who have fallen by the hands of native 
marauders, were both of them connected with this station. The 
first was Mr. Eawlins, an assistant, who was killed by a horde 
of Fitcani near to Clarkebury ; and the other was the Eev. J. 
S. Thomas, who was stabbed with assagais by a party of Kaffirs 
who were making an attack upon the cattle kraal. 

The sixth Kaffir station was established about the same time 
as Clarkebury, in the country of the Amampondos, under the great 
Chief Eaku, by the Eev. W. B. Boyce, who had just arrived 
from England, and who gave it the name of Buntingville. 
Although this station is the most remote and isolated, it is the 
only one which has never been destroyed by war; all the rest 
which we have named having been laid waste, and some of them 
repeatedly. The site of Buntingville has been changed, to secure 
agricultural advantages ; but it continues to the present time a 
centre of light steadily shining on the surrounding darkness. 

Two other stations have grown out of Buntingville, one of 
which is called Shawbury, in honour of the highly-esteemed 
General Superintendent for the time being ; and the other has 
received the name of Palmerton, in memory of a beloved Mis- 
sionary now deceased. These are situated on the borders of the 
colony of Natal ; and thus complete the " chain of stations " on 
which the pioneer Missionary set his heart when he first penetrated 



CHAP. III. — WESLETAN MISSIONS. 467 

the wilds of Kaffirland. The Christian traveller may now pur- 
sue his journey from Graham's Town to Natal in safety, receiv- 
ing a welcome greeting at many a smiling Mission station on 
the way, which was not the case in former times. 

On returning from our extensive Missionary tour, along the 
line of stations which were first formed in Kaffirland, it would be 
very pleasant, did our space permit, to look in upon the dear 
brethren who occupy other stations which have in the course 
of time grown out of those already named, — as Osborne and 
Mount Arthur, so called in honour of two highly esteemed 
General Secretaries of the Society ; and Lesseyton, and Queen's 
Town and Karnastone. At the one last named we should find 
the venerable W. Shepstone, once the pioneer, but now the 
respected Chairman and General Superintendent of the District, 
still labouring with a degree of energy and zeal truly surprising, 
It must be very gratifying to Messrs. Shaw and Shepstone, and 
to the friends of Missions generally, to know that the Queen's 
Town or Kaffirland District now numbers ten Missionaries, 
eighteen chapels, forty-Jive other preaching -places, eleven hun- 
dred church members, tico thousand scholars, and ttoelve thou- 
sand attendants on public worship. 

At the same time that the good work was thus progressing 
in Albany and in Kaffirland, it was making its way in the 
Bechuana Country, another important section of Southern 
Africa, to which we beg to call the attention of the reader for 
a few moments. 

In the year 1822, the first attempt was made to carry the 
Gospel into Bechuanaland ; and it partially failed in conse- 
quence of the sickness of the Missionaries, and the unsettled 
state of the country. As soon, however, as the health of the 
Bev. S. Broadbent was in a measure re-established, he nobly 
offered to return to the scene of his former efforts, and the 
late Bev. T. L. Hodgson proceeded from Cape Town to accom- 
pany him. They were afterwards joined by the Bev. J. Arch- 
bell, and for a time by the Bev. E. Edwards also. These 
devoted servants of the Lord explored the country in various 
directions, but especially to the eastward, with a view to find a 
suitable locality for a permanent Mission, without approaching 

2 h 2 



46S PAET III. THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

too far to the west, where the Rev. Messrs. Moffat and H 

ton were engaged in a similar enterprise in the service of the 
London Missionary Society. At length Messrs. Hodgson and 
Broadbent. after having been repeatedly thwarted by the pre- 
vailing wars among the natives, were enabled to commence an 
important Station, at a place called " Makwasse," far up the 
Taal River, with the Baralong tribe of the Bechnanas. It was 
not long, however, before the Missionaries and their people 
were driven away and scattered by powerful and hostile native 
tribes from the north. But, as soon as an opportunity was 
afforded, they rallied again, and for more than twenty-live years 
this tribe has chiefly resided at an important Mission s. 
which has been established at a place called Thaba '"Xchu. where 
there is now a large native town, with a population of nearly 
10,000, — probably the largest assemblage of natives in one spot 
in any part of Southern Africa. 

In addition to this large and prosperous station, which was 
the result of early struggles and sufferings of the pioneer Mis* 
sionaries in Bechuanaiand, other similar establishments were 
formed on a smaller scale in different parts of the country. In 
their wanderings in the desert, the Missionaries had preached 
to a tribe of Hottentots called Korannas, and to a body of half- 
castes, known by the name of Newlanders. As soon as the state 
of the country would admit of it, these were collected together, 
for the purpose of religious instruction, the former at a St 
called Plaatberg, and the latter at Umpukani. These Stations, 
being five hundred miles from Graham's Town, and still more 
distant from Cape Town, were ultimately formed into a separate 
[District, — in connexion with Colesberg, BurgherVDorp, Witter 
bergen, Bensonvale, Bioem-Fontein, Smithfield, Fauresmith, 
and some other places, — which was placed under the care o 
Rev. E. Giddy, as Chairman and General Superintendent. The 
Bechuana District now numbers nin e Missionaries, twelvt rt 
fifty-nine other preaching-places, eight hundred and sixty cl 
members, fourteen hundred scholars, and five thousand sew I 
hundred attendants on public worship. 

The next step in advance in the establishment of Wesleyan 
Missions in South-Eastern Africa was to the territory oi Natal, 



CHAP. III. — WESLEYAN MISSIONS. 469 

which has now become an important British Colony. The Eev. 
J. Archbell was the first Missionary to this country. He com- 
menced his labours in that distant region in 1841, just as the 
British Government were asserting their rights to the country, 
and sending a detachment of troops to preserve order. For 
several years after this small beginning the land was kept in a 
state of constant commotion by war, or the rumours of war ; 
but when a measure of peace and order was restored, and good 
government firmly established, the Mission was reinforced by 
the appointment of the Eev. W. C. Holden, the Eev. C. 
Spenseley, and other men of experience from England as well 
as from other parts of South Africa, and the work was extended 
and consolidated. The Eev. Joseph Jackson, the Eev. J. 
Cameron, and other zealous young Missionaries, were also 
raised up in the Colony subsequently. In after years the 
colonial department of the work was strengthened by the arrival 
from England of a number of Wesleyan emigrants. Eventually, 
important stations for the English and native departments of 
the Mission were established at Maritzberg, the capital, at 
D'Urban, the port, and at Yerulam, Indaleni, Kwangubeni, 
Edendale, and some other places. 

In the year 1850, Natal was formed into a regular Wesleyan 
District, and placed under the care of the Eev. H. Pearse ; who, 
after labouring for several years as the respected Chairman and 
General Superintendent, was on the eve of returning to his 
native land, when he was suddenly called to a better country. 
He died on the 18th of February, 1862, from severe injuries 
sustained by the upsetting of a conveyance in which he was 
travelling to the port for the purpose of embarkation a few 
days before. On the return to England of the Eev. J. Piicher, 
the immediate successor of Mr. Pearse, the Eev. James Cameron 
was appointed as Chairman and General Superintendent of the 
Natal District, which now numbers thirteen Missionaries, ticenty- 
one chapels, one hundred and eleven other preaching-places, nine 
hundred and twenty church members, one thousand scholars, and 
ien thousand attendants on public icorship. 

In our brief and hasty sketch of the rise and progress of 
Wesleyan Missions in the respective Districts of South Africa, 



470 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

we must now return to the Cape of Good Hope, properly so 
called, and trace the circumstances under which Methodism was 
planted there at a period anterior to that at which the Missions 
were established which have already passed under review. 

Soon after the Cape Colony passed into the possession of the 
British Government, at an early period of the present century, 
a number of soldiers were sent out from England to strengthen 
the garrison, among whom were a few pious young men, who 
were deeply affected with the moral degradation of all with 
whom they came in contact in Southern Africa. The most active 
and zealous of these was Sergeant Kendrick, of the 31st Light 
Dragoons, who was instrumental in promoting a good work, 
not only in the army, but also among the civilians in the 
neighbourhood of the barracks. A religious society of seriously- 
disposed soldiers, and a few others, was formed, which at one 
time numbered one hundred and twenty-nine members. After 
labouring for some time with acceptance and usefulness as a 
Leader and Preacher, and fearing that the work would decline 
on the anticipated removal of his regiment, Sergeant Kendrick, 
in the month of December, 1812, wrote to England, earnestly 
requesting that a Missionary might be appointed to the Cape of 
Good Hope. This request was duly considered, and ultimately 
complied with ; but before the auspicious day arrived the pious 
Sergeant had "fought the good fight" and "finished his 
course," and was called to his reward in heaven. He died 
happy in God, on the 18th of November, 1813. 

The first Wesleyan Missionary appointed to the Cape of 
Good Hope was the Eev. John M c Kenny, who arrived in Cape 
Town on the 7th of August, 1814. But such was the jealousy 
of the Government authorities at that early period, that the 
Missionary was not allowed to preach in the Colony, although 
he produced credentials of the most satisfactory character. All 
that he could do under the circumstances was to hold private 
meetings for conversation and prayer with the pious soldiers 
and others, who had hailed his arrival with unspeakable joy, 
and patiently to await the result of his representations to the 
Missionary Committee in London. Before the difficulties could 
be removed, Mr. M'Kenny was instructed to proceed to Ceylon,, 



CHAP. IIT. — WESLEY AN MISSIONS. 471 

where he was afterwards made very useful in the service of his 
Divine Master. 

The Society, being unwilling to relinquish their efforts for the 
benefit of Southern Africa, next appointed the Eev. Barnabas 
Shaw to attempt the commencement of a Wesleyan Mission hr 
the Cape Colony. He landed in Cape Town, with Mrs. Shaw, 
on the 14th of April, 1815 ; but, on presenting his credentials 
to the Governor, he met with no better success, in the first 
instance, than his predecessor. His Excellency declined to give 
the Missionary permission to preach, on the ground that the 
English and Dutch colonists were provided with Ministers, 
whilst the owners of slaves were unwilling to have them reli- 
giously instructed. But Mr. B* Shaw was of too ardent a 
nature to brook delay, and he ventured to take the matter into 
his own hands. He naively says, " Having been refused the 
sanction of the Governor, 1 was resolved w T hat to do ; and com- 
menced without it on the following Sabbath. My congregations, 
at first, were chiefly composed of pious soldiers ; and it w r as in 
a room [hired by them that I first preached Christ, and Him 
crucified, in South Africa. 55 * 

The prospect of usefulness among the native population, and 
others, of Cape Town being very unpromising, and the Mis- 
sionary's heart being set upon preaching the Gospel to the 
heathen, he resolved to attempt the establishment of a Mission 
in the interior. This measure w r as hastened by the representa- 
tions of the Bev. Mr. Schmeien, who was on a visit to the Cape 
from Xamaqualand, and who invited Mr. Shaw to accompany 
him on his return, promising to aid him to the utmost in select- 
ing a suitable place for missionary operations. A waggon and 

* This is only one of many instances which might be given of the Gospel 
having been introduced into heathen lands mainly by the instrumentality of 
pious British soldiers. "Who can calculate the importance of our Army 
work in its bearing upon the interests of Foreign Missions ? Since the 
writer has been engaged in ministering to the Wesleyan soldiers of Parkhurst 
Garrison, the truth and reality of this connexion has been impressed upon 
his mind more and more ; and, on the occasion of every instance of saving 
conversion to God which he has been favoured to witness, he has cherished 
the hope that something has been done thereby towards the salvation of the 
whole world. 



472 PABrI ELL — FHB DAPS OF GOOD HOPJ 

twelve oxen, with all other requisites, were accordingly pur- 
chased ; and, on the 6th of Septeml an the 1 dissionaries, their 
families, and attendants took then leparture, beiDg accompanied 
for some distance by a few friends from Cape Town. 

When the missionary party had pursued their toilsome jour- 
ney foi nearly a month, and had just crossed the Elephant river, 
en the 4th of October, by a remarkable providence Mr. E 
found an opening tc suitable sphere : labour. He actually 
me: with tie Cliief c: tie Lube 2" auaaaua-. ?:urau anted by 
four men, : his way t: Town seek for Christian 

teacher, being aware of the advantages which other tribes had 
realized by :be reception :: ti b. H ring b. rd his 

affecting story, and being deeply impressed with the fact that 
the finger :: God was p tinting him in the right way, the I Mission- 
ary agreed to return with the Chief to bis mountain home, and 
to take np his b : le with him and his people, whilst Mr. Schm 
pursued bis """ tc his iwn station in Great Nsunaqqaland. 

About three weeks afterwards, m the 'i 1 1 . Ifr. and Mrs. 
Shaw, with the Chief and his party, reached Lily Fountain, on 
Khamiesberg; and the foundation of that interesting Mission 
station was laid, which from tli tinned to 

ex;: tase a most beneficial influence en all around, b 
siauary best prtebubaed :: tbe wondering natives the got I 
of salvatien. a:t:i tben ilirecre:: bis attcatlen to the erection of 
a humble dwelling, and a place of worship; at the same time 
instructing the natives in improved methods of cultivating the 
ground, and raising themselves in the scale o: a aation. 
These early efforts c: :br Iz-nely Missionary were successful, 
not only in proinoriug the temporal improvement :: the rople, 
but a gt tbly number :: natives w^-re ultimately breagb: to a 
saving knowledge of the truth, and a Christian Church was 
i : r m e d on a solid foundation . 1 e a : : a :: t s b : h eache 
England. tram t i at: e t: time, c: tbe lab cars and adventures :: 
tbe rita-er IMissitmary at a reritd l:ag before tbe Friendly 
Islands. Fab tab eaber interesting scenes or labeur bad been 
heard ::". pre laced a wonderful end at ; and the name of eaa- 
bas Sbaw. and bis lbbaina::tn. Mission, became b:nscb:ld wards 
in inanv a Metnemst tamuv. 



CPIAP. III. — WE&LEYAN MISSIONS. 473 

In the early part of the year 1813, the Eev. E. Edwards 
arrived at the Cape to assist Mr. Shaw in his interesting work ; 
and, as there was no waggon ready to convey him and his 
baggage to the scene of his labours, he performed the journey 
to Khamiesberg, a distance of nearly four hundred miles, on 
horseback, — a feat w 7 hich gave good promise that he was made 
of the true missionary metal, which was amply proved in after 
years. Arrangements were now made for the extension of the 
work to various out-stations in the Underveld and in Bush- 
manland, as well as for repeated visits to Cape Town for sup- 
plies, which appears to have been unavoidable at this early 
period. 

In the month of July, 1819, the Mission in Namaqualand 
was further reinforced by the arrival at Khamiesberg of the 
Eev. J. and Mrs. Archbell, who soon afterwards went to a 
place called Eeed Fountain, to commence a new station. This 
enterprise not answering the expectations of the Missionaries, 
some time afterwards Mr. Archbell made an experimental 
journey of several hundred miles to the northward, travelling 
through Great Namaqualand and part of Damaraland to Wal- 
vich Bay. Mr. Shaw also paid a visit to his friend Mr. 
Schmelen, at Bethany, in Great Namaqualand ; and, although 
the way did not open at that time for the establishment of per- 
manent stations in those remote regions, much valuable inform- 
ation was collected in reference to a part of the continent com- 
paratively unexplored by Europeans. 

As the interesting station of Khamiesberg will be noticed 
again in the course of our narrative, it may suffice here to 
ob serve that the work of civilization and Christian progress 
continued to advance in after years, under the zealous and 
judicious labours of the Piev. Messrs. Edwards, Jackson, Bailie, 
Parsonson. and Godman, and that it has exercised a most bene- 
ficial influence not only upon the residents at the institution 
themselves, but also upon the surrounding population. 

We must now r direct the attention of the reader to the efforts 
made by the agents of the Wesleyan Missionary Society to 
carry the glad tidings of salvation to the regions beyond the 
Orange Paver, on the South-Western Coast of Africa, known as 



474 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

Great Namaqilalaiid and Damaraland. When the good work 
had become firmly established at Khamiesberg, in Little Xa- 
maqualand, within the boundaries of the Cape colony, the 
Missionaries naturally felt anxious to advance further into the 
interior, and occasional experimental journeys were taken to 
collect information, as already stated ; but nothing more was 
done till the year 1825, when the lamented Eev. W. Threlfall 
and his companions took their ill-fated journey. 

Tt is not necessary for our purpose here to enter minutely 
into the antecedent history of Mr. Threlfall. We may briefly 
remark, however, that he was originally designated for Mada- 
gascar ; but the way not being open to commence a Mission 
there, he was appointed to the Albany and Kaffaria District, in 
Southern Africa, where he arrived in the month of June, 1522. 
After labouring there for about twelve months, he removed 
to the Cape. Just at that time the Hon. Captain Owen, R.N., 
was about to proceed with his expedition to Delagoa Bay ; and, 
as he offered to give a passage to a Wesleyan Missionary, to try 
an experimental Mission, Mr. Threlfall was allowed to go. 
All the circumstances of the case considered, it is not surprising 
that this feeble attempt of a lonely, inexperienced Missionary 
to plant the Gospel on this remote part of the Eastern Coast of 
Africa proved a failure. Mr. Threlfall was taken ill almost 
immediately after his arrival at Delagoa Bay ; and after endur- 
ing discomforts and privations appalling to contemplate, in the 
neighbourhood of a miserable Portuguese settlement for about 
ten months, he returned to the Cape in a state of great weak- 
ness and emaciation. The "Xereid," a South Sea whaler, by 
which he had obtained a passage, was, on her arrival in Table 
Bay, immediately put in quarantine, having had several deaths 
on board during the voyage ; and the Missionary might have 
perished in the " plague ship," had not his friend, the Eev. 
J. Whitworth, nobly gone on board, fearless of danger, to 
minister to his necessities. Soon after this, Mr. Threlfall went 
to Khamiesberg to join Mr. B. Shaw, with the hope that a 
residence in that elevated and salubrious situation might prove 
beneficial to his health . 

The anticipations which were entertained with reference to 



CHAP. III. — WESLEYAN MISSIONS. 475 

the young Missionary's health on his removal to Little Xa- 
maqualaud, were realized in a pleasing measure; and he might 
have continued to labour usefully there, but his ardent nature 
could not allow him to rest. He was anxious to extend his 
labours beyond other men's line of things. In the following 
year, his Superintendent allowed him to undertake a journey to 
Great JNTamaqualand, in company with two Native Teachers; 
which proved to be his last effort in a cause which he dearly 
loved. 

It was about the end of June, 1825, that Mr. Threlfall left 
Khamiesberg, accompanied by Jacob Links and Johannes 
Jager, two Native Teachers, who had volunteered to accom- 
pany him on his hazardous enterprise. They travelled, not in 
a comfortable ox-waggon, according to the plan generally 
adopted, but mounted on the backs of three oxen trained for 
the purpose, and had a few packages of provisions and goods 
for barter. From two brief notes which were received from 
Mr. Threlfall, it appeared that after crossing the Orange Eiver, 
and penetrating some distance into Great Xamaqualand, they 
made but slow progress, six or seven weeks having elapsed 
before they reached the Warm Bath ; and that they met with 
difficulties from want of water and the unkindness of the 
natives. After this nothing was heard but uncertain rumours, 
till it was proved on evidence that all three had been murdered 
by a party of natives, for the sake of the few goods they had 
with them. 

From the confession of the principal murderer, it appeared 
that when Mr. Threlfall and his companions had travelled about 
ten days beyond the Warm Bath to a place called Kamanoup, 
where they obtained some provisions and a guide, they were 
proceeding on their journey, when a plot was formed for their 
destruction. The treacherous guide, named Naugaap, concerted 
with two other Bushmen to murder the Missionary and his 
companions during the night. They watched their opportunity, 
and when they were all asleep, fell upon them. Jacob Links 
and Johannes Jager were first dispatched by the discharge of 
arrows, followed by a shower of stones. Mr. Threlfall was 
awoke from his slumber by the noise, and, seeing the danger to 



476 PART III. THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

which he was exposed, fled to a bush close by, and fell upon his 
knees. Whilst thus in the attitude of prayer, the Missionary 
received his death-blow from a large stone, which the principal 
culprit threw at him, and which struck him on the head. The 
murderers then divided the pack-oxen, the remaining goods, and 
the Missionary's watch and clothes, which they stripped from 
him, and fled to their village. 

As scon as the fact of the murder became known, the murderers 
were pursued, apprehended, taken before the Landrost at Clan- 
william, tried, found guilty, and Kamanoup, the principal actor 
in this horrid tragedy, was condemned to death, and ultimately 
executed at a place called Silver Fountain. In order to make a 
deep impression upon the minds of the natives, it w*as thought 
desirable by the Government authorities that the sentence of the 
law should be carried out at the place above named, near to the 
colonial frontier, and not far from the place where the murder 
was committed, that the Chief of the tribe to which the culprit 
belonged, with his head people, might be present on the solemn 
occasion. 

As the Landrost and military escort, with the criminal, tra- 
velled from Clan william to Namaqualand, they necessarily went 
by the w r ay of Khamiesberg, the Mission station from which Mr. 
Threlfall and his companions set out on their ill-fated journey. 
They arrived at the institution on the Saturday night, and 
rested there over the Sabbath. 

The arrival of the murderer of the Missionaries at Khamies- 
berg was an event of painful interest, and excited something 
more than a feeling of curiosity. Having been securely lodged 
during the night in the smith's shop, — the only building wdiich 
could be used as a prison on the occasion, imprisonment on the 
institution being a punishment unknown, — the next morning he 
was brought out into the fresh air. As he sat in the sun, the 
natives gathered around him. At first it was feared that there 
might be a display of revengeful feeling among a people who 
had so recently emerged from the darkness of heathenism ; but 
it was not so. There was a glorious manifestation of Christian 
principle. Peter, the brother of Jacob Links, had previously 
said to the Missionary, " 0, Sir, what would I not give to 



CHAP. III. — WESLEYAN MISSIONS. 477 

find the man that murdered my brother ! I would not shrink 
from any cost or trouble, could I but meet him." But when his 
Minister inquired why he was so anxious to see him, he meekly 
replied, cc 0, Sir, I would bring him to this Mission station, 
that he might hear the word of God, and learn the way of sal- 
vation !" And now when he saw him, he spoke to him words 
of earnest exhortation to seek the mercy of God through 
Christ Jesus. When old Kedo Links, the father of Jacob, came 
up, he was much excited ; but he only said to the murderer of 
his son, "Didst thou think I should not find thee?" Among 
others who drew near was a sister of Jacob, named Martha, 
a young woman of sincere and consistent piety. She sat on the 
ground near the criminal, and wept sorely. "When able to con- 
trol her emotion, she said, " Why did you kill the Missionary? 
and why did you kill my brother?" After a pause, she added, 
" But I am not come to upbraid you. It was in truth a very 
cruel and wicked deed. I am sorry for you. I am come to 
entreat you, as your time is short, to implore God's mercy." 
And with other words of kind and earnest exhortation, she urged 
him to improve the little space that was left him for repentance. 
The criminal was then conducted to the chapel, where Divine 
service was performed, and special prayer offered up to God 
that He would have mercy upon his soul ; and although the un- 
happy man who was most immediately concerned in the solemn 
spectacle seemed hardened and unmoved, no one could have 
looked upon it without being deeply affected by the evidence 
which it afforded of the transforming power of Divine grace on 
the native converts, who showed such sympathy and pity for the 
man who had murdered their relatives and friends. 

On being conducted to the place of execution, and on looking 
at the grave already dug to receive his remains, previous to the 
fatal shot being fired by the military escort, the apparent in- 
difference of the murderer gave way, and he passed from time 
to eternity calling upon God to have mercy upon his soul. 

It is a pleasing fact that, notwithstanding the melancholy 
failure of the first attempt to plant the standard of the cross in 
Great Kamaqualand, the noble object was not lost sight of by the 
Missionaries ; and that a pleasing measure of success ultimately 



4?S PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

crowned their efforts. On the 11th of August, 1S26, the Chief 
of the Bundlezwaarts, with ten of his people from the Warm 
Bath, arrived at the Mission station at Khamiesbers:. having 
come to entreat that another Missionary would return with him 
to his country ; but the Key. E. Haddy, being alone on the 
institution, was unable at that time to comply with his request. 
The Chief afterwards visited Cape Town with the same object 
in view ; but the Missionaries being few in number, he was 
required to wait a little longer without a teacher. 

In the year IS 32 a Missionary Meeting was held at Simon's 
Town, at which Josiah Xisbett, Esq., of the Madras Civil Service, 
occupied the chair. At this meeting affecting reference was 
made to the three Missionary Martyrs of Xamaqualand. and to 
the morally degraded and destitute condition of the inhabitants 
of the interior, when the Chairman generously offered to give 
the sum of £200 towards the commencement of a AVesleyan 
Mission at the Warm Bath among the Bundlezwaarts, who were 
so anxious to have a teacher. At the same meeting a zealous 
young Missionary, the Rev. E. Cook, recently arrived from 
England, nobly offered himself for this service, and exclaimed, 
in the language of the prophet, "Here am I, send me. 55 The 
spontaneous offers of the money and of the man were both 
accepted, and in a short time Mr. and Mrs. Cook were wending 
their way to Great Xamaqualand. This attempt to establish a 
Wesleyan Mission at the Warm Bath was successful, and the 
place received a new name in honour of the generous patron of 
the enterprise. From that clay to this it has appeared on the 
list of Mission stations as :i Nisbett Bath, Great Xainaqualand. 5 ' 
Ii would be very pleasant for the writer to trace in minute 
detail the early and subsequent history of this interesting Mis- 
sion : but as it will call for further notice in the course of his 
personal narrative, it must suffice here to make a few brief 
observations. Mr. Cook continued his zealous and useful 
labours in connexion with Great Xamaqualand for nearly ten 
years, ably assisted during some part of the time by the Piev. 
Joseph Tindall, His health now began to fail, and he set out 
on a journey to Cape Town, from which he hoped to receive 
some benefit : but, on reaching the benks of the C range Biyer 



CHAP. III. — WESLEYAN MISSIONS. 479 

he became worse, and resigned his happy spirit into the hands 
of God, on the 7th of March, 1843. His remains were carried 
back to the Xisbett Bath station, a distance of about severity 
miles ; and having attended to the funeral ceremonies as best 
she could, the bereaved widow, with her fatherless children, 
proceeded on their mournful journey to the Cape, and ultimately 
to England. 

The early and successful labours of the dear departed Mis- 
sionary to spread the Gospel in Great Xamaqualand, were nobly 
followed up by the Rev. Messrs. Kidsciale, Bailie, Tindall, and 
others, who subsequently occupied the field. And although 
the work has been somewhat fluctuating at different periods, 
owing to the peculiar circumstances of the country and the 
people, we have no doubt but a large amount of real spiritual 
good has been effected by the labours of the Missionaries, as 
many as five hundred converted natives having been sometimes 
reported as united in church fellowship in connexion with that 
station. 

Xo sooner was the work firmly established in Great Xama- 
qualand, than the Missionaries, true to their great commission, 
began to think of the regions beyond, and to prepare for extend- 
ing their labours to Damaraland. This important measure was 
rendered the more necessary by the removal to that distant 
region of Jonker Africaner, and a part of his tribe, from 
Bleijdeverwacht, — an out station of the Xisbett Bath Circuit, 
now called Hoole's Fountain, in honour of the senior Secretary 
of the Wesleyan Missionary Society, — where preaching had been 
commenced some time before. This petty Chief, or Captain, 
was a very remarkable character. He was one of the seven sons 
of the notorious freebooter, Titus Africaner, whose very name 
struck terror through this part of the continent in former 
times. In early life Jonker became the subject of gracious 
influences ; and had he remained at the Mission station, he 
might have been as pious and useful as his brother David and 
some other members of his family. But he must needs travel 
northward, professedly in quest of a better country, although 
it is to be feared that he had an eye to the cattle of the 
Damaras, and to that mauradins: life to which he afterwards 



480 PAKT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

abandoned himself. His example was soon followed by 
Ameral, Francman, Whitboy, and other petty Chiefs, with 
their small tribes of people, who had all been previously 
under the influence of the Gospel, from their occasional con- 
tact with the Missionaries and their people. This emigration 
of several small tribes of semi-civilized Namaquas to the 
borders of the Damara country seemed to favour the idea 
that the Gospel might probably be introduced through them to 
the populous regions beyond; for the hostile attitude which 
they too frequently assumed towards the aborigines was not 
generally known. The hope of extending the work to Damara- 
land was further encouraged by a message brought by Sir 
James Alexander to the Missionary at Nisbett Bath, on his 
return from that country, to the effect that Jonker Africaner 
was anxious to have a Wesleyan Missionary stationed with his 
people. 

Under these circumstances Mr. Cook set out on a journey of 
observation to Damaraland in the early part of the year 1842 ; 
and on reaching that distant region, he found, as he expected, 
that both Jonker and Ameral were desirous to have Missionaries. 
Being favourably impressed with the prospect of good, Mr. Cook 
promised to use his utmost exertions to obtain Missionaries for 
Damaraland, and wrote to the Committee accordingly. In the 
mean time the Eev. Joseph Tindall proceeded to the Damara 
Country, and laboured with a cheering measure of success among 
Jonker's and Ameral's people. Societies were now formed, and 
out stations regularly organized. Jonker was serious]y impressed 
with the truth, and once more gave up his honey-beer, and 
became a total abstainer. Happy would it have been for him 
if he had continued in this course ; for it is to be feared that 
drinking proved his ruin. In the following year Mr. Cook 
again visited Damaraland ; but in the mean time a German 
Missionary had been there, and a feeling of jealousy arose 
between the agents of the Ehenish and Wesleyan Missionary 
Societies, the remembrance of which we would fain bury in 
oblivion ; but in view of certain statements recently published 
at the Cape with reference to the commencement of the Damara 
Mission, a passing notice seems to be necessary. On reaching 



CHAP. III. — WESLEYAN MISSIONS. 481 

AmeraPs place Mr. Cook received a letter purporting to be from 
Jonker Africaner, stating that lie had now received Missionaries 
from the Ehenish Society, and that consequently he need not 
trouble himself to go there. Mr. Cook was a man of ardent 
temperament, and truly zealous for the Lord of Hosts ; and it is 
not surprising that he should feel grieved at being thus fore- 
stalled in so unexpected a manner, after the toil he had gone 
through, and the representations he had made to the Committee 
in London on the subject of a Mission to Damaraland. Not- 
withstanding the communication which he received, he would 
no doubt have gone on to Jonker' s place and sifted the matter 
to the bottom, but he was taken ill, and obliged to return to 
Nisbett Bath. This illness terminated in death shortly after- 
wards, as already stated. 

A few months after this, whilst Mr. Tindall was on a visit to 
the out stations of the Nisbett Bath Circuit, accompanied by 
Mr. James Morris, he received a letter from Jonker, written by 
his own hand, stating that he was still waiting for his own 
Missionary, and reiterating his undeviating desire for a Mission- 
ary from the same Society as those who were labouring among 
his relatives atBleijdeverwacht. We do not attempt to account 
for the discrepancy between the two communications alluded 
to, but merely state the fact, as it seems to afford sufficient 
ground for the action which our Missionaries afterwards took in 
supplying Jonker with the means of religious instruction. 

The representations made by the Missionaries in reference to 
the opening for the introduction of the Gospel into Damaraland, 
produced a powerful impression in England. One benevolent 
gentleman generously contributed seven hundred pounds to- 
wards the enterprise ; whilst the venerable Barnabas Shaw, who 
had been some time in England, offered to return to Southern 
Africa, to take a part in the good work. Mr. Shaw was re- 
appointed to the Cape accordingly, and arrived in Table Bay in 
November, 1843, accompanied by the Rev. Messrs. Kidsdale, 
J. B. Shaw, and T. B. Catterick. By the Conference Mr. 
Eidsdale and Mr. Tindall were appointed to to Damaraland ; but 
ultimately it was considered best for Mr. Bidsdale to take the 
Nisbett Bath station ; and that Mr. Haddy, who had more experi- 

I I 



PART III. THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

ence in the work, should proceed to the Damara Country, espe- 
cially as lie had generously offered to do so. 

On the arrival of Mr. Haddy at Jonker's kraal, accompanied 
by Mr. Tindall, the whole matter was explained ; and the Chief 
was left to decide who should labour among his people, when he 
unhesitatingly expressed his preference for a Wesley an Missionary; 
and the Rhenish Missionaries were left to enter other openings, 
of which there were many in the country. For several years 
afterwards Mr. Haddy and Mr. Tindall laboured in connexion 
with the stations which were now formed with Jonker's and 
Ameral's people, and with other wandering tribes on the 
borders of Damaraland ; and the stations named Concordia, 
Wesleyvale, and Elephant's Fountain, appeared on the list of 
stations for some time. Some lasting good was no doubt done 
by the zealous labours of these men of God ; but the work was 
very fluctuating, and the difficulties numerous, arising partly 
from the frequent and long-continued absence of the Missionaries 
from their stations, and the time spent upon the roads visiting 
Cape Town for supplies ; and partly from the relapse of the 
Chiefs into their former drinking habits, and their frequent 
attacks upon the poor Damaras, to steal their cattle, cutting off 
all hope of extending the Gospel into the heart of the Damara 
country by their aid. 

By the Conference of 1850, the Rev. Messrs. Godman and 
Thomas were appointed to stations in Damaraland ; but on the 
arrival of the writer in Southern Africa, to take charge of the Cape 
of Good Hope District, he found both Mr. Haddy and Mr. Tindall 
at the Cape, the Damara Mission having been without a Mis- 
sionary for some time. In view of all the circumstances of the 
case, it appeared absolutely necessary either to strengthen the 
Damara Mission, by the appointment of several more men, and 
to carry it on with vigour, or to relinquish it in favour of the 
Rhenish Missionaries, who, it was understood, were desirous to 
have the whole country to themselves. A carefully prepared 
estimate of the expenses necessary for the undertaking was 
accordingly forwarded to the Committee in London, and the 
case placed before them in all its particulars. We anxiously 
awaited the reply of the General Secretaries. When it came, it 



CHAP. III. — WESLEYAN MISSIONS. 483 

was to the effect that the depressed state of the Society's funds 
would not admit of the required grant for the recommencement 
and extension of the Damara Mission; and that the stations 
which had been organized might be handed over to the German 
Missionaries, the whole of our means being required for the support 
and consolidation of our work in other parts of the District. This 
was done accordingly ; but we entertain the hope that the labours 
of the Wesley an Missionaries were not in vain in Damaraland. 

We must now request the attention of the reader to a few 
particulars connected with the commencement and early history 
of our Mission work in Cape Town and on the neighbouring 
stations. On the departure of Mr. B. Shaw for Xamaqualand, 
in 1815, the few pious soldiers and others who had been brought 
to a knowledge of the truth, met together for prayer and mutual 
edification, as they had opportunity ; and whenever a Missionary 
arrived from England, or visited the colony from the interior, 
he ministered to them the word of life during his stay, in a 
private, quiet way ; and no notice was taken of it by the Govern- 
ment authorities. At length, prejudice gave way, every legal 
hindrance was removed; and, in 1820, the Rev. T. L. Hodgson 
was sent from England to establish a regular Mission in Cape 
Town. On his arrival, he found the work already commenced. 
T\ hilst on a visit from the interior, Mr. Edwards had commenced 
preaching, and opened a Sunday school for the children of slaves, 
.and such of the ignorant adults of the same class as could be 
induced to attend, in a large store-room which he had hired for 
the purpose. On the return of Mr. Edwards to Namaqualand, 
Mr. B. Shaw was instructed to aid Mr. Hodgson for a time, till 
the Mission should be permanently established. Having pur- 
chased suitable premises, and fitted them up as a place of wor- 
ship and school-house, at an expense of upwards of six hundred 
pounds, most of which was raised by subscription on the spot, 
the building was duly opened for Divine service on the 16th of 
June, 1821, when the Rev. Dr. Philip, of the London Missionary 
Society, preached in the afternoon, from John xvii. 31 ; and the 
Eev. Mr. Smith, of the Dutch Reformed Church, in the evening, 
from Haggai ii. 9. The collections at the opening services 
amounted to thirty pounds. 

2 i 2 



48-i PAUT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

For several years the Cape Town station waa occupied chiefly 
by the Bev. Messrs. B. Shaw and T. L. Hodgson, with the 
exception of the intervals during which the one visited Xama- 
qualand, and the other the Bechuana Country. On different 
occasions, however, the congregations were favoured with the 
valuable services of the Bev. Messrs. Edwards, A.rchbell, Whit- 
worth, Cameron, Shrewsbury, Cook, and others, as they 
sojourned for a time at the Cape, in passing to and from their 
more distant stations. The work having been extended to 
Wynberg and Simon's Town, where substantial chapels were 
built, in 1826 the Bev. B. Snowdall was sent out from England 
to labour at the Cape. He was a young man of much promise, and 
for two or three years was made very useful ; but his course was 
soon run. He died at Graham's Town on the 24th of March, 1831. 

In the year 1827, the Bev. B. Shaw and his family paid a 
visit to England; and a new and larger chapel in Cape Town 
having become necessary, Mr. Shaw received many contributions 
towards its erection, during his absence from the colony. Mr. 
Shaw returned to the Cape again in 1829; and the new chapel 
in Burg Street, having been completed, was opened for Divine 
service on the 13th of April, 1831. when the Bev. S. Kay, who 
was about to embark for England, preached in the morning, and 
Mr. Shaw in the evening. The Mission having been strength- 
ened by the arrival of the Bev. James Cameron, from England, 
the work was extended to Stellenbosch, Somerset [West), Klip 
Fontein, and other places, some of which have since become 
important central stations ; and, although the progress of the 
Mission was not rapid, every year witnessed accessions to the 
church, and the Missionaries were encouraged to persevere in 
their labours. 

The Bev. T. L. Hodgson, having spent nearly five years in 
England, returned to the Cape in the month of January, 1S36 - y 
and entered upon his duties with his wonted zeal and earnest- 
ness. A second place of worship being required in Cape Town 
for the special use of the native congregation, as well as for 
school purposes, Mr. Hodgson immediately set about the work, 
and the Sydney Street chapel was erected accordingly. It was 
opened for Divine service in 1S37, when the Bev. William 



CHAP. III. — WESLEYAN MISSIONS. 485 

Shaw, who had just arrived from England, and was on his way 
to Graham's Town, and the Eev. Barnabas Shaw, both preached 
on the occasion.* Almost immediately after this, Mr. B. Shaw 
embarked for England for the second time. After six years 
spent in his native country, in 1843 the veteran Missionary 
again returned to the scene of his former labours, to spend the 
remainder of his days in doing good among a people who were 
still dear to him. 

On the departure of Mr. B. Shaw for England, in 1837, Mr. 
Hodgson was appointed as his successor in the important office 
of Chairman of the Cape of Good Hcpe District. This office 
he worthily fulfilled as long as he lived, notwithstanding the 
return of Mr. Shaw, as already stated ; and he was in labours 
more abundant. Mr. Hodgson was a man of robust frame of 
body, as well as of a large and benevolent heart ; but his long 
and arduous course of missionary labour in Africa, together with 
some peculiar trials which he was called to pass through, preyed 
upon his constitution, and, in the year 1849, his health began 
seriously to fail. Instead of seeking for relief by a return to 
his native country, as strongly advised to do, he lingered at his 
post of duty, and gradually sank to rise no more in this world. 
He died very happy in God, at Cape Town, on the 21st of June, 
1850, in the sixty-third year of his age, and thirty-fifth of his 
ministry. 

* These two devoted men were not brothers 3 as erroneously stated by Dr. 
Stevens, in his " History of Methodism/ 5 and by some other American 
^writers. Neither were they related to each other in any way by the ties of 
nature. They were simply honoured Missionaries of the Cross, engaged at 
the same time on different parts of the great continent of Africa. Barnabas 
Shaw was the pioneer Wesleyan Missionary at the Cape and in Zsamaqua- 
land, and William Shaw was the Apostle of Albany and Kaifraria. Their 
jpraise is in all the churches, at home and abroad, and their names will long 
be held in grateful and affectionate remembrance. The one first named was 
called to his reward several years ago, whilst the other, after labouring with 
acceptance in several Circuits at home, has been deservedly promoted to the 
honourable position of President of the British Wesleyan Conference. 



486 PART III.—THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 



CHAPTER IV. 

ENTRANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION, 

Third Embarkation — Driven back by a Storm — The Isle of Wight — 
The Voyage — Arrival at the Cape — Fellow Labourers — Kaffir War — 
Missionary Meeting — District Meeting — Ministers' Breakfast Meeting — 
Missionary Visitors — Progress of the Work — Enlargement of Burg Street 
Chapel — Mission Stations visited — English "Work at Burg Street — 
Dutch Work at Sydney Street — Hone Street — Sunday School Union 
— Rondebosch — Newlands — Claremont — Wynberg — Diep River — 
Simon's Town — Elsey's River — Somerset (West) — Terrington Grove — 
Strand — Stellenbosch — Raithby. 

It was at a somewhat eventful period of the history of our 
South African Missions that I and my dear wife were requested 
to go abroad for the third time; and at the Conference of 1850 
I received an appointment as the Chairman and General Super- 
intendent of the Cape of Good Hope District, in the place of 
the Eev. T. L. Hodgson, who at the last advices was said to be 
dangerously ill, and who soon afterwards finished his course, as 
stated at the close of the last chapter. I had laboured for two 
years, with much comfort, among a loving people as the Superin- 
tendent of the Newport Circuit, Isle of Wight, and had con- 
sented to remain for a third year, when the call to foreign 
service so unexpectedly came to hand. On looking at it from 
every point of view, it appeared to be providential ; and we had,, 
therefore, nothing to do but meekly submit to the will of God, 
especially as I remembered that ever since the Lord redeemed 
my life from destruction in such a remarkable manner, His^ 
vows were upon me to live, and labour, and suffer, and die, 
where, and when, and how, He in His infinite wisdom might 
appoint. We, therefore, cheerfully acquiesced in the arrange- 
ment, and began to prepare for our new r scene of labour. 

On Tuesday, the 19th of November, Mrs. Moister and I met 
the Eev. John and Mrs. Thomas, who were to be our fellow- 



CHAP. IV. ENTRANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION. 487 

voyagers, at the Mission-House ; and having been commended to 
God in prayer, by our friend the Rev. Dr. Hoole, we left 
London, by the Blackwall Railway, to join a Thames steamer, 
accompanied by Messrs. Adams, Hebb, Eotherham, and other 
friends. On arriving at Gravesend, we immediately went on 
board the ship "Emperor, 55 by which our passage was taken 
to the Cape, and which we found lying at anchor in the river. 
After uniting in prayer and conversation for a short time in our 
cabin, our friends took leave of us ; and having watched them 
with peculiar feelings till they reached the shore, and exchanged 
the last signals of friendly recognition as long as they were in 
sight, we went below to put little matters right in our berths, 
preparatory to our voyage. In the evening Mr. Thomas and I 
went on shore to a Missionary Meeting, which we heard was 
being held in the Wesleyan chapel at Gravesend. We were 
received with a hearty welcome by the Ministers and friends 
who were assembled together. The Rev. Messrs. B. Gregory 
and M. Gillings were present as the deputation from the Parent 
Society ; and, as they very kindly made way for us, we had an 
opportunity of once more pleading the cause of Missions before 
we again bade adieu to our native land. The interest of the 
occasion was enhanced, not only by the presence of two Mis- 
sionaries, who had spent many years in foreign lands, and were 
embarking again in the glorious enterprise, but also by the 
reference which I was led to make to the circumstances con- 
nected with my first going out, and to the happy Sabbath which 
I spent in the same chapel nineteen years before, as noticed at 
page 122 of these Memorials. Many changes had taken place 
in the interim; but there remained a few old disciples who remem- 
bered my former visits, and who, I believe, united fervently in 
supplication, when we were commended to God in prayer at the 
close of the meeting by the Rev. Mr. Tippett, previous to return- 
ing to our ship in the river. 

About ten o'clock the next morning, Captain Day and the 
remaining passengers having come on board, we weighed anchor, 
and proceeded down the river with the ebbing tide and a fair 
wind. On Thursday, we passed the Downs, where our pilot left 
us, by whom we sent letters to our friends. The motion of the 



4 S S PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

vessel was now considerable, and most of the p were 

prostrated by sea sickness. Through mercy. I :sual 

unaffected with this painful malady, and my dear wife suffered 
less than on former occasions. On Friday we were off Be 
Head ; and on Saturday we passed the Isle of TTieht. of which 
we had a fine view, and were led to think and speak of dear 
friends on shore with whom we had often held sweet counsel, 
and walked to the house of God in company; but 
could scarcely hope to meet again in this world. 

Hitherto the wind had been favourable, and sailing as pleasant 
as could be expected, in the month of November, in the English 
Channel ; but on Saturday evening the win .\i to the 

north-west. In the course of the night it increased in violence, 
and before morning we were overtaken by one of the most 
terrific gales I ever witnessed. During the whole day, en San- 
day, the storm continued with awful fury, the sea constantly 
breaking over the ship in the most appalling manner. Three sails 
were torn to ribbons before they could be taken in, the wheel by 
which the vessel was steered was broken to pieces, and several 
trusses of hay for the sheep were washed overboard. On going 
up on deck, I looked upon a scene of awful grandeur: the sea 
was literally running mountains high ; our noble ship was com- 
pletely at the mercy of the waves, whilst the wind whistled 
through the rigging in pensive moans, which were suggestive of 
feelings of despondency. Everything on d^ck was in a state of 
wild confusion. Onr noble Captain and brave seamen were 
doing everything that well directed skill and persevering effort 
could achieve, for the safety of the vessel and th i f assf . as. As 
the waves broke over the ship, the water flowed into the cabin ; 
and as the vessel was sometimes almost on her beam ends, boxes 
and other fixtures were breaking loose from theii fastenings, md 
the noise and commotion were frightful. All that we could do 
was to endeavour to hold on, and to be earnest in prayer and 
supplication to Him who 

"Rides upon the stormy s" . 
And calms the roaring sea." 

In these religious exercises the passengers, about a doze:, in 
number, readily joined us ; for fear and dismay sat upon every 



CHAP. 1Y — ENTRANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION. 489 

countenance. Having placed ourselves round the cuddy table, 
'which was well secured, and to which we could cling with con- 
fidence as the vessel pitched and rolled, we spent many hours in 
reading suitable portions of Scripture and select hymns, and in 
prayer and exhortation. In these exercises Mr. Thomas and 
I relieved each other, as in turns w r e became exhausted ; for the 
passengers, both ladies and gentlemen, were incessant in their 
requests that we would continue to call upon God, that He might 
save us. As the gale continued with unabated fury during the 
night, w T e got but little rest ; and altogether our first Sabbath 
at sea on this occasion was a day long to be remembered. 

On Monday, the 25th, the storm still continued with scarcely 
any abatement ; but a temporary tiller having been rigged to steer 
the ship, her motion was less violent. As we had six sailors dis- 
abled from severe bruises and exposure, one having fallen from 
aloft, and as we found, also, that a considerably quantity of our 
live stock had perished in the cold and wet, the Captain 
deemed it necessary to run into port the first favourable oppor- 
tunity, to repair damages, and prepare for sea again. Towards 
-evening the gale moderated a little, for which we felt truly 
thankful-; and, as we had been driven back directly up the 
Channel, all the time that the storm had continued, we looked 
out anxiously for the sight of land on the English or French 
*coast, but were disappointed. 

On the following day the wind became still more moderate ; 
and when we got a sight of land, we found that we w r ere off 
Beachy Head. Tuesday was spent in beating up for the Isle of 
Wight ; and at night we were able to come to anchor off Bern- 
bridge Point. We got under weigh early on the .following 
morning, and about noon we came to anchor off Cowes. We 
went on shore immediately, and met with a hearty reception 
from my former esteemed colleague, the Eev. John Parry, his 
amiable family, and other friends. Finding that a day or two 
at least would be required for repairing the vessel, we hired a 
conveyance and drove over to Newport in the afternoon ; and 
thus had an opportunity of seeing my old friend and successor, 
the Eev. John Wood, who, with Mrs. Wood, and many other 
dear friends, was truly glad to see us, after our providential 



490 PAP.T III. — THE DAPS CI GOOD HOPE. 

deliverance from the dangers of the deep. TVe Gratefully 
accepted the kind invitation of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Dore tc 
lodging for the night at their hospitable mansion ; and the next 
day, after calling upon as many friends as our limited time 
would permit, we returned to Cowes in Mr. W. B. Gr 
carriage, which he kindly placed at our disposal, accompanied 
by the Rev. Mr. Wood and Mrs. Wood, Mis. W. B. Gw 
Mrs. Joseph Groves, and Miss WavelL These dear Erie 
together with the Rev. J. Parry and Mrs. J. Pinhorn, kindly 
went with us on hoard the c: Emperor;" and, after having 
viewed the ship, and taken some refreshment, they united with 
us in singing a hymn and in prayer to God, then took an 
affectionate leave of us, and returned to the shore, whilst we 
prepared to put to sea once more. 

Early on tbe morning of Saturday, the 30th, we 
anchor again, and passed through the Xeedles with a gentle 
breeze in our favour. "When we were off Yarmouth, my friend. 
Captain Webb, came on board to say farewell ; and when we 
were fairly outside, the pilot, Mr. Davis ;:' Ses View left m 
by whom we again sent letters to our friends, and by whom I 
also acknowledged the receipt of a box of valuable pre- 
sents for our schools from the friends : Sea View ind St 
Helen's, which had come to hand whilst the ship was in harbour. 

When we got out to sea this time, we met with nothing more 
to impede our progress; although the first part of our voyage 
was somewhat stormy and boisterous, especially while dossing 
the Bay of Biscay. On Monday, the 16th of Decembe: 
spoke the barque u Orient, 53 twenty-one days from England, 
bound for Goree. The Captain toici ns that he was in the Mar- 
gate Roads during the fearful gale :: Sunday, the 84th ;: 
November, and that before _; : . leparture mic ressel came in 
water-logged, and another dismasted, whilst numerous wrecks 
had occurred along the coast ; so that we had additional cause 
for gratitude to God for our preservation. Whilst we were 
sitting at dinner in the caddy the same heavy block fell 

from aloft on the skylight above our heads, and shivered the 
thick plate-glass of the sky-Tight tc pieces, one of which fell :n 
the table close to the Captain and Mrs. Moister, breaking theii 



CHAP. IV. — ENTRANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION. 491 

plates before them, and yet. through mercy, no one received 
any injury. 

On entering the tropic.?, and coming within the infiuenc 
the trade-winds, sailing became very pleasant ; and we 
able to hold our religions services with regularity and com 
Mr. Thomas and I preached and read prayers alternately on the 
Sabbath and on Christmas Day: and we were pleased to see 
the passengers and seamen attending with devour solemnity. 
We had also in our own cabin, for our own edification, weekly 
class-meetings and prayer-meetings, which were very prorit- 
abl* ; and. with solemn prayer and praise, we held our own 
watch-night at the close of the year, whilst our gallant ship was 
ploughing her wav through the mighty deep. 

On -Monday, the 6th of January. 1851, having crossed the 
Equator during the night, we had a visit from old Neptune and 
his wife. The foolish ceremony oi shaving all who had never 
before crossed the Line was duly observed ; T .vhil- :he god of the 
deep and his consort sat in state in a car, in which they bad 
been previously dragged round the deck of the shin. Toe pas- 
sengers who wished to be exempt of course paid the hue ; and 
the affair passed otf without any unpleasant consequences. 

Nothing further worthy of notice occurred during the 
remainder of the passage, our time being pleasantly spent in 
reading and conversation, and in occasionally exchanging sig- 
nals with a passing vessel, till Monday, the 3rd of February, 
when we once more heard the cheering sound of i: Land a- 
head ! " It proved to be the grand promontory of Southern 
Africa, with Table Mountain in dim outline, only to be dis- 
cerned by the practised eye. We arose early on the following 
morning, and on going upon deck, we had a hue view of Table 
Mountain, and the minor elevations called the Devil's Peak, the 
Lion's Head, the Lion's Rump, and Green Point, with nume- 
rous farms and dwelling-houses stretching along the shore. 
The prospect was of a most inteersting and romantic character, 
and fully met our preconceived ideas of the boldness and grandeur 
of African scenery. About two o'clock in the afternoon we 
entered Table Bay, and came to anchor, with Cape Town full 
in our view. A strong south-east wind was blowing, aud the 



492 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

admonitory white cloud, called the "table cloth/ 5 was spread 
over Table Mountain, indicating the probability of its increas- 
ing in violence; the Rev. B. Eidsdale had therefore, with his 
usual forethought, sent off a boat with a note advising us to 
land without delay, if possible. We did so at considerable 
risk, and with some discomfort ; the waves frequently dashing 
over the' boat as we sailed along. Through a kind and gra- 
cious Providence, we reached the shore in safety, and found 
Mr. Eidsdale and Mr. Duffett waiting for us on the wharf. 
We immediately accompanied them to the Mission-House, in 
Burg Street, where we met with a cordial reception from Mrs. 
Eidsdale and family. In passing up the streets of Cape Town 
we had to encounter clouds of dust and sand ; and altogether 
our first impressions of the " Cape of Storms " were not very 
favourable ; but they improved afterwards, for we found that it 
was not always stormy at the Cape of Good Hope. 

On the morning of Wednesday, the 5th, I took a walk before 
breakfast, and had a more favourable view of Cape Town, the 
south-east wind having subsided ; and I was much pleased with 
the appearance of the place. In the afternoon, the Eevs. Bar- 
nabas Shaw, Eichard Haddy, and Matthew Godman, with their 
wives, came in from Eondebosch and Wynberg to welcome our 
arrival. We had soon afterwards the pleasure of seeing the 
Eevs. Edward Edwards, Eichard Eidgill, Joseph Tindall, 
John A. Bailie, and Joseph Jackson, who, together with my 
esteemed colleague, the Eev. Benjamin Eidsdale, and my 
beloved fellow voyager, the Eev. John Thomas, entered with 
me into the various matters pertaining to the interests of the 
District, with a cordiality and friendliness which at once claimed 
my confidence, and afforded me much comfort at a time when 
the responsibility of my position in a new sphere of duty 
heavily weighed upon my spirit. With most of these dear 
brethren, and with the Eev. Messrs. Cameron, Barber, Parson- 
son, and Priestley, who afterwards joined us, I spent several 
happy years of missionary labour ; and I look back with much 
pleasure on the harmony and good feeling which generally pre- 
vailed in our counsels, and on the measure of success with 
which the great Head of the Church was pleased to crown our 
united efforts. 



CHAP. IT. — ENTRANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION. 493 

We had scarcely landed on the shores of xifrica when we were 
informed that there had been a serious outbreak among the 
Kaffirs on Christmas Day, and that the whole of the frontier of 
the colony was involved in war. This intelligence was rendered 
the more appalling by the report that a large number of Hotten- 
tots in the Kat Eiver Settlement, and other natives, had in this 
instance united with the Kaffirs against the English. Although 
the metropolis was so far distant from the scene of contest, 
much anxiety and commotion existed at the time of our arrival. 
All the troops had been dispatched to Kaffirland, and levies 
were being made to raise a strong militia force to aid in the 
defence of the Colony. Those who had faith in the Providence 
of God betook themselves to prayer; and such indeed was the 
general opinion that prevailed on this subject, that a day had 
been appointed by the Governor as a day of public humiliation 
and prayer for the termination of the Kaffir war. This was 
Friday, the 7th of February, two days after our arrival. We 
had a prayer-meeting in the forenoon in Wesley Chapel, and 
Mr. Eidsdale preached an impressive sermon in the evening. 

On Sunday, the 8th, I preached for the first time in Wesley 
Chapel to a respectable and intelligent congregation, whilst Mr. 
Eidsdale officiated at the native chapel in Sydney Street, in 
Dutch. In the afternoon I drove out to Eondebosch, where I 
preached a missionary sermon in the evening. On the follow- 
ing day the public Annual Missionary Meeting was held at the 
same place, when I had the pleasure of uniting with the Eev. 
Messrs. Shaw, Edwards, Haddy, Eidgill, Eidsdale, Godman, 
and Thomas, in pleading the cause of Missions ; and the spirit 
of missionary zeal and liberality which I witnessed, both on the 
part of the Ministers and the people assembled, was truly cheer- 
ing, and beautifully exemplified the fact that Methodism is the 
same all the world over. 

On Tuesday, the 10th, we held a District Meeting, which had 
been adjourned from the regular annual assembling of the breth- 
ren some time before, for the consideration of some important 
matters which awaited my arrival. The principal of these was 
the somewhat perplexing question of the Damara Mission, 
•which was dealt with in the manner already stated. All the 



494 PAttT III. — THE CAPE 01 GOOD HOPE. 

brethren iu the District were present at this meeting, except 
three, who had not yet arrived from the interior; and they were 
perfectly unanimous in their views of the respective matters 
brought before them. The prospective stations were arranged 
apparently to the satisfaction of all parties concerned, most of 
the brethren continuing in the spheres of labour which they had 
previously occupied, Mr. Thomas going to Simon's Town, where 
a resident Minister was much required ; whilst the requests of 
Mr. Jackson to remove to Natal as a Supernumerary, and Mr. 
Haddy to return to England, after a long and honourable period 
of service in South Africa, were duly commenced to the kind 
consideration of the Committee. 

Although much fatigued with the exercise involved in the 
various matters of business which had required my attention 
every day and every hour since our arrival, to say nothing of 
the labour connected with the landing and unpacking ot our 
luggage, I preached on Wednesday evening, the 11th. at Burg 
Street chapel, to an interesting congregation; and on the fol- 
lowing Sabbath 1 preached at Wynberg, in the morning, on 
behalf of the Sunday School, and at Eondeboseh in the evening. 
On Monday evening 1 attended an interesting meeting of the 
London Missionary Society in Union Chapel, and, according to 
request, gave some account of my labours in the West Indies, 
which appeared to interest the audience. 

On Tuesday, the 15th, I attended for the first time the 
Ministers' Breakfast Meeting, at which I met with the Bev. 
George Morgan, the Minister of the Scotch Church ; the Bev. 
William. Thompson, Agent of the Bondon Missionary Society ; 
the Bev. Abraham Fauer, Senior Minister of the Dutch Reformed 
Church; the Bev. B. Bamb, Episcopalian Minister of Trinity 
Church ; and other dear brethren in Christ, with whom I had 
frequently the happiness of being afterwards associated in similar 
gatherings and in various benevolent and philanthropic efforts, 
and with whom I lived and laboured during the entire period of 
my residence at the Cape in perfect harmony and love. This 
Ministers 5 Meeting is an institution of long standing at the Cape. 
It is held every alternate week at the residence of each Minister 
in rotation, who can conveniently enter into the arrangement. 



CHAP. IV. — ENTEANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION. 495 

After taking breakfast together, an hour is spent in prayer and 
religious conversation, the Minister presiding at whose house the 
meeting is held for the time being. Any Minister is at liberty 
to take with him and introduce a ministerial friend who may be 
on a visit to the Cape ; and I have had the pleasure of meeting 
with Dr. Livingstone, the Eev. Eobert Moffat, and other honoured 
fathers and brethren from the interior of iVfrica, and from India 
and Australia. In subsequent years, a South African Branch 
of the Evangelical Alliance was formed at the Cape; but long- 
before the organization of such an institution the thing itself was 
in existence in Cape Town, being fostered by these Ministers' 
Meetings ; and I can testify with pleasure that I never resided in 
any place where I witnessed more of harmony and good feeling 
among Ministers and people of different religious denominations. 

On Wednesday, the 26th, the Eev. John E. S. Williams, with 
Mrs. Williams, Miss Cryer, and Miss Batch elor, arrived from 
India, on their way to England, Mrs. Williams being in a feeble 
state of health. Soon afterwards, Mr. Williams was appointed 
to minister to the Coolies in the Colony of Deinerara, where he 
fell a sacrifice to yellow fever, on the 27th of August, 1853. This 
was the first Indian Missionary party that we entertained after 
our arrival at the Cape ; but we had frequently the opportunity 
afterwards of welcoming to the shores of South Africa dear 
brethren and their families passing and repassing to and from 
their respective scenes of labour in Natal, India, and Australia ; 
the Cape of Good Hope being a convenient place of call, where 
they seemed to enjoy a few days on shore to break the mono- 
tony of a long sea voyage. We have a pleasant recollection of 
agreeable visits from the Eev. Messrs. Edward Hardy with Mrs. 
Hardy, Samuel Hardy with Mrs. Hardy and family, Joseph 
Morris with Mrs. Morris and family, Isaac Harding with Mrs. 
Harding, Thomas Hodgson with Mrs. Hodgson and son, John 
Pinkney with Mrs. Pinkney and family, Eobert Young, William 
Shaw, Daniel Sanderson, David Griffiths, Eobert Stephenson, 
John Scott, Eobert W. Pordige, H. W. Dean, and some others. 

When we had become in some measure settled in our new 
station at Cape Town, we found it to be a very interesting and 
important sphere of labour. In addition to my numerous official 



496 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

duties, I had the charge of the English work in connexion with 

Wesley Chapel, Burg Street, whilst my worthy coil: 
Mr. Rids dale, attended to the native department in Sydney 
Street. The congregations at both places of worship were 
increasingly large and attentive ; and the Leaders, Local 
Preachers, and Sabbath School Teachers, were zealous and active 
in their respective departments of duty. We immediately saw 
here, as we had often done in other places, the frreat importance 
of attending to the religious instruction of the rising generation. 
Mrs. Moister cheerfully took charge of a select Bib! which 

had been for some time met on the Sabbath morning by the 
Minister's wife ; and I organized one of a more general character, 
to which I attended on the Monday afternoon, which soon num- 
bered upwards of fifty interesting boys and girls, of different 
shades of complexion. 

Before the close of our first year's residence in Cape Town, 
the enlargement of our Burg Street chapel appearing to be 
absolutely necessary, I therefore called the Trustees together, 
consulted with my brethren and friends, and we set about the 
work in good earnest. It was a great undertaking, considering 
the heavy debt upon the premises, and the slender character of 
our resources, in a mixed community, where Methc iism had not 
as yet obtained a very substantial footing. But our leading 
friends were full of heart and hope : and we commenced the work 
in the spirit of faith and prayer. Having obtained a respectable 
list of subscriptions, and prepared plans and specifications of 
the enlargements and ^Iterations to be made, we advertised for 
tenders, and aceepted the one which was approved. The west 
end of the chapel was taken down, and the bnil ling enlarged 
by an addition of twenty-five feet to its length, whilst the ceiling 
was raised about eight feet higher at the sides, making the piace 
more lofty and airy, whilst at the same time its appearance was 
very much improved. A gallery was also erected at the east 
end of the chapel with a view to afford accommodation to the 
school children, as well as to afford additional sittings for the 
increasing congregation. These additions and improvements 
were satisfactorily completed at an expenditure of about £600; 
and such was the liberality with which the people 3ame forward in 



CHAP. IV. — ENTRANCE ON PEESOXAL MISSION". 497 

aid of the undertaking, that the whole was completed without 
any assistance from the Parent Society, and without any increase 
to the debt upon the premises. 

Having attended to various matters of business connected 
with the District, which had been accumulating during the 
period which had elapsed since the death of my lamented pre- 
decessor, and attended to the claims of my own Circuit, by 
renewing the quarterly tickets of the church members, adminis- 
tering the sacrament of the Lord's Supper, and holding busi- 
ness meetings with the Trustees, Leaders, Local Preachers, and 
Sunday School Teachers, I embraced the "first opportunity which 
presented itself of paying a friendly visit to the respective 
stations in the neighbourhood of the Cape. A few particulars 
as to the character and extent of our work in this important 
section of the Mission field, at the period to which I refer, may 
be interesting to the reader, as they will clearly show that the 
labours of the early Missionaries had not been in vain in the 
Lord. 

Cape Town has already been sufficiently described, as to its 
situation, general appearance, and population, to give the 
reader a definite idea of its position and importance as the 
capital of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope. It only 
remains for me to make a few further observations upon it as a 
"Wesley an Mission station. As already stated, we have here 
two distinct and important departments of labour, one for the 
English, and another for the natives, or Dutch-speaking por- 
tion of the inhabitants. Our place of worship in Burg Street, 
called "Wesley Chapel, adjoining which is the Minister's resi- 
dence, with a private communication through the vestry door, 
is a neat, respectable, and commodious sanctuary. Since its 
enlargement, it will accommodate about six hundred people. 
Tor intelligence and respectability, the congregation would bear 
a comparison with that of any provincial town in England. 
On entering Burg Street chapel on a Sabbath day, all the ser- 
vices being conducted in English, and in every respect after the 
good old Methodist style, the visitor might easily imagine him- 
self back again in his native land. On my arrival at the Cape, 
I found, in connexion with this station, about one hundred and 

K X 









498 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOFE. 

twenty church members ; and the Classes were in a very fan- 
state of discipline. By the blessing of God upon the labours 
of His servants, these have now increased to one hundred and 
eighty-six, after supplying the vacancies which have been occa- 
sioned, from time to time, by death and removals, fee We 
have at Burg Street an excellent Sunday school, of upwards of 
three hundred scholars. Formerly, the lessons were given 
and the addresses were delivered more frequently in Dutch 
than in English ; but of late years English has prevailed more 
and more. 

Our establishment in Sydney Street, for the native depart- 
ment of the work, is situated about a mile from the English 
station, at the eastern end of the city. The chapel is a neat 
and substantial building ; but as a place of worship it has to 
submit to the inconvenience of being used as a school-room 
during the week. The services are generally conducted in the 
Dutch language, and are well attended by the coloured people 
of the neighbourhood ; which is every year becoming more and 
more populous. I found in connexion with this about 

a hundred and fifty church members, which have since increased 
to two hundred and four. The Sydney Street Sunday school 
is conducted entirely in English, and numbers nearly three bun- 
dled children. Here we have also an excellent day school, which 
I found in a languishing state, but which was soon re-organized, 
and which prospered for many years under the able and zealous 
management of Mr. John Filmer, the teacher. Since the erec- 
tion of an additional school-room, the infants have been drafted 
off, and taught in a separate department, an arrangement 
which renders the establishment still more complete and 
efficient. 

With a view to render this brief account of our work in Cape 
Town as complete as possible, I may here add that, in the year 
1857, a third chapel was erected, in Hope Street, on the north 
side of the city, nearly a mile from either of the stations already 
mentioned. This enterprise was largely indebted to the zeal 
and benevolence of Mr. James S anthers, and other active 
friends, like-minded, who came forward nobly on the occasion, 
so that the undertaking was completed without any aid from 



CHAP. IV. — ENTRANCE OX PERSONAL MISSION. 499 

the parent Society. Hope Street chapel is a neat little struc- 
ture, and answers the double purpose of a place of worship and 
a school-room, Divine service being conducted, and schools 
carried on, both on Sabbaths and week days, for the benefit of a 
japidly-mcreasing and long-neglected population. The day 
school has for some time past been under the care of Mrs. H. 
Berning, a lady of eminent piety and zeal, — a " mother in 
Israel." In addition to these three establishments in Cape 
Town, there is also a flourishing little Sunday school taught in 
Loop Street, which has been a blessing to the neighbourhood. 

These four Sabbath schools, which have been established in 
different parts of the city, are nnited in what is denominated 
the " Wesley an Cape Town Sunday School Union; 5 ' and the 
institution is worked with a zeal and earnestness which I have 
never seen surpassed in any country. The Eules and Eegula- 
tions of this Union have been improved from time to time, till 
they have approached very near to perfection; and they are 
attended to by Superintendents, secretaries, treasurers, 
librarians, visitors, and teachers, in a manner which reflects 
much credit on all concerned. The anniversary services are 
held at Easter, when sermons are preached, and a day is set 
apart for miscellaneous exercises, and a treat for the children. 
The scholars, and teachers, and officers, assemble in "Wesley 
chapel or on the Parade, to the number of nearly a thousand ; 
and, having been addressed by the Ministers, and sung a few r 
hymns, they march in order through the streets of the city, with 
their banners flying, to Sydney Street chapel and neighbour- 
hood, where they are accommodated in large booths or tents 
erected for the occasion, and are treated with tea and cake, Sec. 
Tor ten years in succession, with only one exception, occasioned 
by indisposition, I had the pleasure of attending and taking- 
part in this delightful gathering, and a more interesting scene 
I never beheld. It is pleasing to be able to add, that our 
Mission schools in Cape Town have to a considerable extent 
been nurseries to the church ; a blessed work having at different 
times been experienced among the children and young people, 
a large proportion of whom have been gathered into the fold of 
Christ. 

2 k 2 



500 PAET III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

Bondebosch, being only four miles from Cape Town, came under 
my notice soon after my arrival in South Africa ; and, after a 
residence of about two years in the city, I made it the principal 
place of my abode. I was induced to adopt this arrangement, 
from the circumstance of my predecessors having frequently had 
to remove to different places in the country for the benefit of 
their health, as well as from my experience and conviction that 
Cape Town is not the most desirable place of residence for Iny 
one who occupies a public position, which taxes his mental and 
physical powers to the utmost of their capacity. I found the 
work in a very weak and languishing state at Eondebosch, both 
in the native and English departments. It appeared to have 
been gradually declining since the removal of the Eev. E . 
Eidgill some time before to another sphere of labour. By the 
blessing of God on the means employed, we were favoured to 
witness some improvement. We have a neat little chapel at 
this place, which was erected by the late Eev. T. L. Hodgson, 
in the year 1845 ; but the English congregation which assem- 
bles in it is composed in a great measure of persons who belong 
to other branches of the Christian church, and who worship 
with us not merely because they are friendly to us, and approve 
of our ministry, but also because they have no place of worship 
of their own denomination in the neighbourhood. This being 
the case, we had frequently large and attentive congregations, 
and pleasing indications of spiritual good resulting from our 
labours, whilst the addition to the number of our church mem- 
bers was very small indeed. It was otherwise, however, in the 
native department. Although we laboured under the disadvan- 
tage of having no regular place of worship for our services, and 
were obliged to put up with a contracted room, which we hired 
for the purpose, the people flocked to hear the word of God; 
and a goodly number were gathered into the fold of Christ. At 
the close of the year 1859, an interesting service was held, at 
which twenty-two native adults were received into the church 
by baptism. Eondebosch and the neighbourhood affords a 
fine field of labour among the coloured classes ; but, as they 
generally speak the Dutch language, and prefer their religious 
services in that tongue, a suitable place of worship should be 



CHAP. IV. — ENTRANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION. 501 

•erected for them. The want of a suitable site and other 
difficulties have hitherto prevented the accomplishment of this 
desirable object. 

Soon after our removal to Rondebosch, my attention was 
directed to a scattered and neglected village or hamlet called 
X ewlands, which I began to visit on Sabbath afternoons, 
between our principal services, which were held in the fore- 
noons and evenings. Tor three years I preached, when the 
weather would permit, under some large oak trees ; and, amid 
many difficulties, arising from Pagan darkness, Mohammedan 
superstition, and determined wickedness, we persevered till 
some religious impression was made. With the aid of our 
kind friends in Cape Town and other places, we ultimately suc- 
ceeded in our efforts to erect a neat little chapel, which was 
opened for Divine service on the 4th of April, 1858. Our 
rejoicing at the accomplishment of this desirable object had 
scarcely subsided, when there came a fearful storm of wind and 
rain, which laid waste many buildings in the neighbourhood, 
and, among the rest, the front end of our beautiful little sanc- 
tuary was completely demolished, the folding panelled doors 
and stained glass windows being smashed to pieces. Xothing 
daunted, we appealed to our friends for help ; they came for- 
ward again most liberally, and the waste places on this little 
hill of Zion were soon repaired, and we proceeded with our 
work as before. A class of ten members was ultimately formed, 
Sabbath and day schools were established, and this little out- 
station was made a blessing to the community at a time 
when there were no other means employed for their religious 
instruction. 

Another out -station which I succeeded in organizing in con- 
nexion with the Rondebosch Circuit, was at the village of 
Claremont. Here we found a large number of Xegroes, 
Malays, and other coloured persons, as ignorant and demoral- 
ized as the heathen population of the interior. They could not 
be induced to enter any place of worship, in consequence of 
their ragged, degraded condition; and I doubt whether any 
impression for good would have been made upon their minds, 
if we had not commenced with open-air services. For a length 



502 PAET III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

of time we had preaching and Sunday school in a grove of fir 
trees ; and, from the beginning, the Divine blessing appeared 
to accompany our efforts. Encouraged by the liberality of our 
friends in Cape Town and other places, we ultimately erected 
a neat little chapel here also, on a piece of land generously pre- 
sented to the Society by J. A. Stegman, Esq. This beautiful 
little sanctuary was formally opened for public worship on the 
1st of January, 1860 ; on which occasion I had the pleasure of 
baptizing seven adults, who, from their deep seriousness and 
previous training, appeared eligible for admission into the 
church of Christ. These were the first fruits of our labours at 
this place ; but many more were afterwards gathered into the 
fold of the Redeemer ; and the Gospel has been faithfully 
preached there from that time to the present. 

Wynberg is an interesting station, eight miles from the 
metropolis, and it claimed my attention immediately after our 
arrival at the Cape. I found the work in a state far from 
prosperous, several obstacles appearing to stand in the way of 
spiritual progress. The principal of these was the want of a 
more commodious and respectable chapel for the English con- 
gregation. The old thatched chapel adjoining the Mission- 
House, erected in 182S under the direction of Mr. Shaw and 
Mr. Snowdall, had become very dilapidated and uncomfortable; 
but for several years there appeared to be no prospect of obtain- 
ing a more suitable place, our cause being weak, and our peo- 
ple generally far from wealthy. At length, Divine Providence 
raised up a friend in the person of J. M. Maynard, Esq. This 
noble-minded Christian gentleman, himself a member of the 
congregation, and largely indebted to the religious influence of 
Wesleyan Missions, seeing the necessity of the case, gene- 
rously came forward and built a beautiful chapel himself, at a 
cost of about a thousand pounds. When the building was 
completed, and ready to be opened for Divine service, it was 
formally and freely presented to the Wesleyan Missionary 
Society, transfer being given on the plan of the Model Deed of 
our Connexion. Neither must I omit to mention that the lot of 
land on which the chapel stands, at the cost of a hundred pounds, 
was the gift of Joseph Maynard, Esq., the brother of the gentle- 



CHAP. IV. — ENTRANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION. 503 

man already named. These were not the first nor the last 
offerings of those friends of Missions in aid of our work. Being 
deeply impressed with, what they had witnessed of the blessed 
results of the Gospel, as preached by our Missionaries in South. 
Africa, they were always ready to come to our help in cases of 
necessity, notwithstanding their regular contributions to the 
Mission Fund. The Wynberg new chapel was formally opened 
for public worship on Tuesday, the 4th cf November, 1851, 
when, by request, I preached in the morning from Haggai ii. 
9 : " The glory of this latter house shall be greater than the 
glory of the former, saith the Lord of hosts : and in this place 
will I give peace, saith the Lord of hosts." In the afternoon, 
Mr. Haddy preached in Dutch, after which there was a tea 
meeting at Plumpstead estate, and Mr. Eidgill preached in the 
evening. The old chapel was now set apart for native service 
and as a school-room, and for some time the English depart- 
ment of the work wore a more encouraging aspect. But 
although the congregations have frequently been large and 
respectable, the number of church members has not increased, 
as was anticipated, owing chiefly to the circumstance that many 
who worship with us are members of other churches, as at 
Bondebosch, and continue their nominal relationship to the 
religious bodies to which they belong. 

The most prosperous and encouraging department of the 
work in connexion with the Wynberg Circuit, in a missionary 
point of view, is that which is carried on in the Dutch Ian* 
guage for the benefit of the natives. Some of the services are 
conducted in the old chapel at Wynberg, as already stated, and 
are attended by a number of coloured persons residing on the 
Cape Mats ; but the. chief locality of the native work is an out- 
station called Diep Biver, about two miles from Wynberg, on 
the Simon's Town road. Here we have a substantial chapel, 
erected by Mr. Haddy in the year 1840, in which an interest- 
ing congregation assembles together from Sabbath to Sabbath, 
and occasionally pn week nights. About sixty persons are 
united together in church fellowship, who give evidence of their 
sincerity by a consistent walk and conversation. An excellent 
day-school is also in active operation, under the judicious 









504 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

management of Mr. E. M'Leod, who has long laboured usefully 
and acceptably at this place in the capacity of Teacher and 
Local Preacher, as he did previously for some time in Great 
Namaqualand. 

Simon's Town is an important station, twenty-two miles 
from the city, in the same direction as the places already 
named, and was first visited by me on the 15th of March, 
1851. I had been detained in Cape Town till a later hour 
than I intended, by a trustee meeting which I found it neces- 
sary to hold before I left home ; and 1 had to ride hard, though 
the day was wet, to prevent my being benighted on the road. 
After passing through the pleasant villages of Eondebosch, 
Claremont, and Wynberg, the road becomes rather dreary. 
On the right hand, an extensive range of barren, rocky moun- 
tains rear their almost perpendicular fronts to a considerable 
height ; and on the left the Cape Flats, a vast sandy plain, pre- 
sents itself to the view, beyond which may be seen in the dis- 
tance the lofty blue mountains of Hottentots' Holland. Then 
appears the ocean, as it breaks on the strand at the head of 
False Bay, along the sandy margin of which the road con- 
tinues for many miles, affording a beautiful view of Simon's 
Town in the distance. On arriving at the end of my journey, 
I met with a hearty reception from the Rev. John Thomas and 
his excellent wife, who had accompanied us from England, and 
had been recently appointed to this station. Here we have a 
neat and commodious chapel, in which I preached to good con- 
gregations, both morning and evening, on the Sabbath. I also 
visited the Sunday school, which I found in a very fair state of 
efficiency, considering the difficulties with which it has had to 
contend. I spent the following day in attending to various 
matters of business connected with the station, and in visiting 
a few of our people, who, on this, as on many subsequent occa- 
sions, received me in the most kind and cordial manner. When 
it was fully arranged that Simon's Town was again to be 
favoured with a resident Minister, we purchased a cottage resi- 
dence, in a quiet retired situation in the upper part of the 
town ; and he extended his labours to an interesting out-station, 
called Elsey's River, at a distance of about two miles over the 



CHAP. IV. — ENTRANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION. 505 

hills. At this place a small chapel was erected in the year 

1857, and a day school established by the persevering exertions 
of the Key. John Priestley ; and thus the means of religious 
instruction were afforded to a scattered and neglected popula- 
tion. I returned home from my first visit to Simon's Town on 
the Monday afternoon, calling to see the Diep River school on 
my way, and reached Cape Town about five o'clock, just in 
time to meet my Bible Class ; and, on entering the chapel, I was 
delighted to find fifty interesting young people waiting for me. 

Somerset (West) was the next station that I had an oppor- 
tunity of visiting for the purpose of making myself acquainted 
with the work in all its departments. Having made arrange- 
ments with the resident Minister, the Rev. R. Ridgill, who had 
kindly come to Cape Town to accompany me, we set out 
together on horseback, on Saturday, the 5 th of April. As the 
day was far spent before we had fairly commenced our journey, 
we took the nearest road across the Cape Plats, and rode at a 
rapid rate, sometimes among hills of sand resembling drifts of 
driven snow, and then over extensive tracts of waste barren land. 
After riding about eleven miles, we came to Klip-Pountain, a 
small settlement in the centre of this desert, originally a Wesleyan 
out-station, then relinquished for several years for want of the 
means of supplying it with missionary labour, and afterwards 
taken up again under more favourable circumstances. The day 
being very hot, both we and our horses were fatigued ; we 
therefore " off-saddled " and " knee-haltered," and allowed our 
horses to graze for half an hour. In the mean time, we entered 
a humble cottage, and were kindly received by the inmates, 
who w r ere once Wesleyans, and who still delighted to hear and 
speak of the love of Christ. These good people soon made us 
a comfortable cup of tea, and furnished us with an ample 
supply of bread and butter, w 7 hich was very acceptable. They 
were somewhat amused at my first attempt to speak Dutch ; 
but confidently pronounced that I should soon become a good 
Dutchman ! On remounting our horses we pushed on sixteen 
miles further, partly over soft sand, and partly over the main 
road which leads from Cape Town to the colonial frontier; and 
we came in sight of Somerset just as the sun was setting. The 






506 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

appearance of the village from a distance is very beautiful, 
especially that part of it which consists of the Missionary 
Institution, with the neat, stone-built, whitewashed cottages 
and well-arranged gardens of the people, and the Mission- 
House and chapel standing in the centre. Mrs. Bidgill hailed 
our arrival with joy; and I soon found myself at home with 
this interesting Mission family. 

After a comfortable night's rest, I was awoke on Sunday 
morning by the delightful sound of praise to God, as it ascended 
from the native congregation assembled in their prayer-meeting 
in the chapel adjoining the "Mission-House. This circumstance- 
awakened in my mind the most pleasing emotions, and forcibly 
reminded me of our early morning prayer-meetings in the West 
Indies. On walking through the village before breakfast, I was 
greeted with the cheerful smiles and friendly salutations of the 
people, as they sat at the doors of their dwellings : and, as I 
contemplated the scene before me, I was deeply impressed with 
the great advantages, temporal as well as spiritual, which they 
now enjoyed by the introduction of the Gospel into their coun- 
try. At nine o'clock in the morning, the first public service 
was held. The chapel was filled with attentive hearers, nearly 
all persons of colour, and a few years ago in a state of slavery ; 
but now free, and appearing in the house of God neatly attired, 
and truly solemn and devout in their demeanour. The singing 
was delightful; and, although but imperfectly acquainted with the 
language in which they worshipped, I felt that God was present 
in the midst of His people. Mr. Eidgill preached in Dutch with 
great fluency and power; after which I baptized two children, 
and addressed the congregation, Mr. Eidgill kindly interpret- 
ing. At eleven o'clock, I preached in English to a good con- 
gregation, considering the circumstances of the place : and, 
altogether, I felt much delighted with the public services of the 
first Sabbath I spent at Somerset. 

I had also occasion to be equally well pleased with the Mis- 
sion school, which I examined on the following day. One 
hundred and thirty native children were present. They sang 
several pieces, both in Dutch and English, most sweetly; and 1 
answered the questions proposed to them with considerable 



CHAP. IV. — ENTRANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION. 590 

facility. The reading, writing, and arithmetic were very fair, 
and would bear a comparison with those of our common schools 
in England. The progress made by these children reflected great 
credit upon Mr. Gray, their former Teacher, as well as upon 
Mr. H. Gever, who was then in charge of the school, to sav 
nothing of the vigilant oversight of the devoted resident 
Minister. 

On the Sabbath afternoon I visited an interesting out-station 
called Terrington Grove, in company with Mr. Eidgill. At 
this place, which is four miles from Somerset, we have a neat 
little chapel, It stands at the foot of the new road which leads 
through Sir Lowry's Pass, surrounded by a number of cottages, 
which form a scattered village. The inhabitants of this neigh- 
bourhood have no other means of religious instruction than 
those supplied by the visits of our Missionaries, and the little 
day school which we have established for the education of the 
children. The chapel was built a few years ago at the sole 
expense of Captain Terrington, and was presented by him to 
the Society free of debt. Mr. Eidgill preached an energetic 
sermon in Dutch to a crowded congregation of attentive hearers. 
The venerable Captain himself was present at the service ; and 
I had an opportunity of assuring him of the estimation in 
which his valuable aid was held by the Committee at home. 
He was a worthy member of our church ; and, notwithstanding 
his advanced age, he still took an active part in the Sunday 
school. The population of this place has increased consider- 
ably since we purchased and rented to people several lots of 
land on the plan of a regular Missionary Institution. 

Another out-station, in connexion with the Somerset (West) 
Circuit is at the Strand, at the head of False Bay, about four 
miles from the village in another direction. This place has 
risen to some importance in consequence of its being frequently 
resorted to as a watering-place in the hot season, by parties 
who find it convenient to spend a few weeks at the sea-side. 
The Dutch farmers from a distance who are able to indulge in 
this fashionable luxury, generally manage to turn their annual 
visit to good account by returning home with a waggon load of 
fish, which are caught and cured here in large quantities by native 



508 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GCOD HOPE. 

fishermen. Several neat little cottages have been built here, 
and are rented for short periods to visitors. By the persever- 
ing exertions of Mr. Eidgill, and the liberality of the friends of 
Missions in the neighbourhood, a neat little chapel has been 
erected ; and, although the congregations are necessarily fluctu- 
ating, we cannot doubt but good will result from the efforts 
w T hich are being made to diffuse the saving light of the Gospel. 
On the occasion of my first visit to this place, I found a little 
day school in active operation, under the care of Captain Ward, 
a visitor from India. This noble-minded Christian gentleman, 
having been made a partaker of the saving grace of God, and 
having come to the Cape for the benefit of his health, could not 
calmly look on and see a number of children in heathen dark- 
ness, without doing something towards their religious instruc- 
tion. He therefore collected them together ill the Wesleyan 
chapel, with the ready concurrence of the Missionary, and 
taught them daily during the time that he sojourned in the 
place. I found the gallant Captain busy at his humble task, 
and viewed the striking spectacle with gratitude and joy, 
sincerely wishing the aristocrats of other lands knew like him 
the real luxury of doing good. 

I often visited the Somerset (West) station in after years, and 
always with pleasure. The good work has gradually advanced, 
under the judicious and zealous efforts of the Eev. E. Eidgill, 
who has for many years been the resident Minister, and he has 
at length succeeded in the erection of a beautiful new chapel, 
w r hich is a credit to him and to all who have taken a part in the 
noble enterprise. It was formally opened for public worship on 
the 29th of August, 1861, when appropriate sermons were 
preached by the Eev. Messrs. Cameron, Edwards, Tindall, and 
Godman, Mr. Eidgill himself preaching in the open air to hun- 
dreds who could not gain admittance. 

Stellenbosch was the next station which I arranged to visit, 
for the purpose of spending a Sabbath, and inspecting the 
school. I left Cape Town by the omnibus, on the afternoon of 
Saturday, the 10th of May. The wind being high, we encoun- 
tered such a storm of sand as I had never seen before, but 
afterwards experienced many such. I reached the end of my 



CHAP. IV. — ENTRANCE ON PERSONAL MISSION. 509 

journey soon after sunset, and received a kind and hearty 
welcome from the Eev. Edward Edwards, his excellent wife, 
and interesting family. Here we have a good chapel, which 
was erected in the year 1840, and a commodious residence for 
the Minister. A large congregation assembled on the Sabbath, 
chiefly of coloured persons resident in the town and from the 
neighbouring farms. The singing was lively and hearty, and 
the conduct and demeanour of the people during worship was 
strikingly solemn and becoming. Mr. Edwards preached 
morning and afternoon, in Dutch, with an earnestness and zeal 
remarkable for his advanced age ; and in the evening, according 
to request, I preached to a large and attentive audience in 
English. 

On Monday morning I examined the day school, which I 
found in a fair state of advancement and efficiency, under the 
care of Mr. Hendrickse, the zealous Teacher. The children mani- 
fested an intimate acquaintance with our excellent Conference 
Catechisms, which have been translated into the Dutch language. 

Mr. Edwards kindly drove me over to Eaithby, an interest- 
ing out-station, about five miles from Stellenbosch, and so 
called in honour of the late Mrs. Brackenbury, of Eaithby Hall, 
Lincolnshire, a liberal patroness of the Mission. We have a 
small chapel here, which is well attended by the coloured people, 
who occupy cottages that they have built on lots of land which 
they hire from the Missionary Institution. A small day school 
is taught in the chapel, which I examined with great pleasure, 
the children being well advanced, especially in religious know- 
ledge. The Stellenbosch Missionary also visits a place called 
Sandfleet, where a small society has been formed, but no chapel 
has as yet been erected. 

I frequently visited the Stellenbosch station afterwards, and 
marked with delight the gradual advancement of the work 
under the judicious superintendence of the venerable Mr. 
Edwards, who had charge of it for fifteen years in succession ; 
and who has just retired as a Supernumerary Minister, after 
labouring faithfully in South Africa for nearly half a century. 
May his declining years be peaceful and happy, and his long 
life of honourable toil be followed by a rich reward in heaven ! 






510 PABT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 



CHAPTER Y. 

FIRST JOUENEY TO THE INTEKIOB. i 

The Overberg Country — Boscbjesveld — J. D. Lindsay, Esq. — Commence- 
ment of Journey — African Ox-"\Yaggon — Inspanniug — Sir Lowry's Pass 
— Outspanning — Encampment for the Night — Xewmanville — Happy 
Sabbath — Return Homeward — Fransch Hoek — Arrival in Cape Town — 
Second Visit — Journey to Robertson — Interesting Services — Visit to 
Swellendam — Return Journey — Arrival at Rondebosch — Extension of 
the Work — The Robertson Circuit — The Swellendam Station. 

Having made myself acquainted with the state of the work 
in Cape Town, and on the neighhbouring stations, and being 
deeply convinced that in the regions beyond there were ample 
fields of missionary labour unoccupied by the agents of other 
Societies, I made arrangements in the early part of the second 
year of my residence at the Cape, for a journey of observation 
to Bosclrjesveld, in the district of Worcester, and in a section of 
what is generally .called the Overberg Country. I was led to 
turn my attention to this locality, in the first instance, in conse- 
quence of some interesting communications which I had received 
from J. D. Lindsay, Esq., J. P., who had some time before 
settled there in business, and who manifested a laudable zeal 
for the spiritual interests of the people around him. This 
Christian gentleman was himself the fruit of missionary labour, 
having been brought to a saving knowledge of the truth soon 
after his arrival at the Cape of Good Hope ; and, being of an 
ardent temperament, he exerted himself nobly on behalf of 
his dark, benighted fellow-men from the first day that he made 
an open profession of religion. "With a view to qualify himself 
for usefulness among the natives of the country in which his 
lot was cast, as well as to prosecute his business with success, 
he learned the language of the people, and was ever ready 



CHAP. Y. — FIRST JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 511 

to speak a word in season to those with whom he came in 
•contact. 

When Mr. Lindsay removed to Newmanville, in Boschjesveld, 
lie found himself and family far from any place of worship, and 
in the vicinity of a considerable population, for whose religious 
instruction no provision was made by any Christian denomina- 
tion. He therefore resolved at once to do all in his power to 
supply this lack of ministerial labour. He fitted up a large 
room as a chapel and school-house on his own premises ; and 
being well acquainted with the Dutch language, and having 
previously officiated as a Wesleyan Local Preacher, he began to 
.proclaim the glad tidings of salvation to all who were willing to 
hear. He soon collected a good congregation, and established 
an interesting little Sunday school ; and he had reason to 
believe that several of the coloured people who attended were 
earnestly seeking the salvation of their souls. Having thus 
been enabled, by the blessing of God, to lay the foundation of 
.a good work, Mr. Lindsay was anxious to secure the services of 
ii Missionary. Our nearest station was Somerset (West), at a 
distance of about fifty miles ; but on being made acquainted 
with the necessity of the case, the Eev. E. Eidgill nobly 
responded to the call, and arranged to visit Newmanville once 
a quarter. A few visits had been paid by the Missionary, and 
.some arrangements to make more ample provision for the place 
were considered extremely desirable when I was requested to 
undertake a tour of inspection. 

On Monday, the 24th of February, 1853, I left Cape Town 
by the Stellenbosch omnibus, and at the Half-way House a con- 
veyance was waiting to take me to Somerset (West), where I 
.arrived in the evening. 1 found Mr. Eidgill had every thing 
.connected with the travelling department in a state of readiness 
for our journey, whilst his excellent wife had been busy making 
ample provision for the supply of our wants on the road. We 
retired to rest at an early hour, that we might be the better 
.prepared for the exercises of the morrow. 

Soon after midnight, the oxen were collected, the waggon 
" in-packed," and every thing put in train for an early start, it 
being desirable to get as far on our journey as possible in the 






512 



PAET III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 






cool of the morning, that we might have time to rest the cattle 
in the heat of the day. About half-past two o'clock on Tuesday 
morning, the oxen were " inspanned," and we commenced our 
journey. I was accompanied, on this occasion, by the Revs. 
Messrs. Ridgill and Jackson, Mr. T. Jackson, the man from 
whom we hired the oxen, and a Hottentot boy named 
September. 

This being the first time that I had travelled in the lumberly 
African ox-waggon, every thing connected with it attracted my 
attention ; and a brief description of this primitive mode of 
locomotion, once for all, may be interesting to the English 
reader. The common travelling waggon of South Africa differs 
in many respects from any vehicle of the kind used for a similar 
purpose in Europe. The body is long and narrow, with deep 
sides, rising with a gentle curve to a considerable height at the 
hinder part, and mounted on two pairs of wheels of the ordinary 
size, but of great strength. The whole is constructed and put 
together in the strongest possible manner, at the same time 
that provision is made for considerable play and motion in all 
the joints, with a view to adaptation to the rough roads over 
which it has to travel. The body of the waggon is covered 
over with a spacious canvas or sail-cloth tent, supported by 
a semicircular roof, and affords protection from the rain or 
sun. Such is the shell of the moveable dwelling of the 
African Missionary or traveller, in which he lives and lodges 
for weeks and months together whilst traversing the wilderness. 

But in order to form a correct idea of this strange mode of 
life, we must look not only at the house, but at the furniture. 
The waggon is furnished with two spacious chests, — one in 
front, which serves as a seat for the driver, and the other 
behind. In these the wearing apparel, provisions, and various 
articles for domestic use, are carefully stowed away ; and the 
old adage is faithfully observed : " A place for every thing, and 
every thing in its place." Below the adder -hist is sus- 
pended, near to the ground, a frame called the trap, on which 
are packed pots, pans, kettles, and ether cooking utensils, to be 
close at hand when required ; and on the outside of the waggon 
there are two small boxes for saws, hatchets, hammers, nails,. 



CHAP. V.— FIRST JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 513 

and screws, &c, to be easily accessible in case of accidents on the 
road. The interior of the waggon is generally divided into two 
compartments, in one of which the Missionary or traveller sits 
during the day, and in the other he sleeps at night, his mattress 
being placed on a frame called a cartel, suspended over his 
boxes and trunks, wdiich are securely packed in the body of the 
vehicle. When a careful, experienced Missionary's wife presides 
over the domestic arrangements, the interior of the waggon 
presents to the view a scene of comfort which might surprise 
those who stay at home and know nothing about " necessity " 
being "the mother of invention." In such a case the lady 
may be seen comfortably sitting at her needle, with her work- 
bag and other conveniences suspended on the inside of the 
waggon, whilst her husband is looking after the men and the 
cattle, or, if all be right, quietly reading a book. 

When intended only for short journeys, the African travelling 
waggon is constructed on a somewhat different principle, and is 
made as light as is consistent with a due regard to strength. 
It is then sometimes drawn by six or eight horses, harnessed in 
the simplest possible manner ; one man holding the reins while 
another wields a tremendous whip, which urges on the fiery 
steeds at a rapid rate. But the heavy lumberly ox-waggon 
described above is generally used for heavy loads and long 
journeys. It is drawn by a span of oxen varying in number 
from twelve to eighteen, according to circumstances. These 
are frequently all of one colour, or otherwise resembling each 
other, and look very pretty when in good condition. The two 
wheelers are yoked to a pole projecting from the front of the 
waggon called the " dizeloboom" and the rest to a long rope or 
cable secured to that, called the " trek-tow" Three men are 
required to each waggon, — the driver, the leader, and a man to 
take care of the spare cattle, or slaughter " vce" and to assist 
at the " outspannings." The average rate of travelling is about 
three miles an hour. 

Such was the character of our equipment, on the occasion of 
my first journey into the interior, to which I must now return 
after this descriptive digression. Everything being ready, we 
took our places in the waggon ; the driver mounted the fore 

L L 



514 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

hist, cracked bis tremendous whip, and off we went at a lively 
pace, the oxen being fresh and in good condition. Before the 
break of day we passed through Terrington Grove ; and began 
to ascend the. steep winding road which has been formed at 
great expense through a kloof now generally known by the 
dignified name of Sir Lowry's Pass, in honour of Sir Lowry 
Cole, under whose auspices, as Governor of the Colony, this 
improvement was made, chiefly by convict labour. We 
observed the course of the old road, which was steep and 
rugged in the extreme ; and it appeared almost incredible that a 
loaded waggon could ever have been dragged up the almost 
perpendicular rocky track on which we gazed with surprise ; 
but we were assured that this was the only path through the 
Kloof before the formation of the new road. On reaching the 
summit of the first rocky ridge, the sun was just rising above 
the still more distant mountains ; and on looking down upon 
the country we had traversed, we had one of the most splendid 
prospects that I ever beheld. Beyond the vast expanse of 
water formed by an inlet of the ocean terminating in False Bay, 
which was now glittering in the rays of the rising sun, we could 
distinguish Simon's Town, Kalk Bay, and Muzenberg, with the 
rocky heights behind terminating in Table Mountain in the 
far distance, whilst the beautiful village of Somerset (West) lay 
slumbering in the valley below. As we proceeded onward in 
our journey, an extensive country was opened to our view to 
the eastward, embracing the valley of the Palmete Eiver, and 
the roads leading to Caledon and Swellendam. On coming to 
a stream of water which crossed our path, and finding that our 
oxen were somewhat fatigued, we outspanned for breakfast. 

The outspanning is an interesting incident in a journey by 
ox-waggon in Southern Africa. It is necessary for the refresh- 
ment both of man and beast, and takes place in the following 
manner. When the patient animals have toiled at their weary 
task of dragging along the ponderous vehicle for three or four 
hours, they give unmistakeable intimations of a desire for a 
respite ; but a judicious traveller will carefully look out for a 
green spot in the wilderness, where there is water and grass, 
before he gives the word to his men to outspan. This being 



CHAP. V. — FIRST JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 515 

done, the oxen are separated from the yoke, and soon find their 
way first to the water, and then to the best grazing ground that 
the country affords. In the mean time a few sticks are col- 
lected, a fire kindled, and the ever-welcome tea-kettle is 
suspended over it. The table-cloth is spread on the green grass, 
or on the top of a smooth rock, as the case may be ; and, when 
everything is ready, all concerned stand around with hat in 
hand, while the blessing of God is asked on the homely meal. 
To the uninitiated, this seems a strange pic-nic mode of life ; 
but we soon get accustomed to it, and take it as a matter of 
course. When the Missionary and his attendants have finished 
their repast, the circle is formed for family worship, when the 
Word of God is read, and prayer and praise offered, generally 
in the native language of the people. I can call to mind many 
very happy seasons of this kind whilst travelling in the wilds of 
Africa ; but those which occurred in my first journey made an 
impression never to be forgotten. 

After a halt of about two hours the word of command was 
given, the oxen collected and inspanned, and we proceeded on 
our journey. Our course was through a country of diversified 
aspect, where vineyards, cornfields, pasture-lands, and barren 
heaths were strangely intermingled. In the afternoon we 
ascended with some difficulty a rugged mountain path to the 
top of Newberg, when another extensive prospect burst upon 
our view in the direction of Worcester. After outspanning 
repeatedly during the day, and descending by a tolerable road 
into a fruitful and well-watered valley, we halted for the night 
near to the river Zondereind (the "endless" river). 

Having attended to all the duties connected with outspan- 
ning, made arrangements to prevent the oxen from going astray 
during the night, and partaken of a frugal meal, we spent a plea- 
sant evening around our camp-fire, in singing, conversation, and 
prayer. In these exercises we were joined by two Dutch boers, 
who were outspanned not far from us, with their loads of 
produce for the Cape Town market. We retired to rest at an 
early hour ; and being fatigued with a long day's journey, I slept 
much better on this the first occasion of my lodging . in an 
African waggon than I expected. In fact we were* very coin- 

2 L 2 



516 PAET III. — THE CAFE OF GOOD HOPE. 

fortable. A little incident occurred during the former part of 
the day, which may serve to illustrate the rude state of society, 
and the infrequency with which some people attend a place of 
worship even at this short distance from the Cape. On 
approaching a farmhouse where the road had been recently 
repaired with more than usual care, and on meeting a Hottentot 
boy, we inquired the occasion of this recent improvement. In 
answer to our inquiries, the boy related, in all simplicity, how a 
child had been born to his master ; and that when it became 
necessary to have it baptized, his master had the road thus 
repaired, that his mistress might go to church in the waggon 
with her attendants on this necessary business. 

Whilst the oxen were being collected and inspanned, early on 
the morning of Wednesday, the 25th, we lighted a fire, had each 
a cup of coffee, and proceeded on our journey. After crossing 
the river Zondereind at a rugged stony ford, we proceeded 
through a gently undulating country, with occasional farm- 
houses at a short distance from the road. About noon we 
came to the residence of Mr. Brett, a gentleman well known to 
some of our party ; and as the day was beginning to be very 
warm, and as we declined to make any stay, he kindly pre- 
sented us with some ripe figs, and a basket of grapes from his 
vineyard, which were very acceptable. We outspanned for rest 
and refreshment two or three times during the day, as usual ; 
and in the afternoon, on ascending an elevated ridge, we had a 
fine view of the valley of Boschjesveld, with Newmanville in the 
distance, which we reached about five o'clock in the evening. 
We received a hearty Hibernian welcome from Mr. and Mrs. 
Lindsay, who had been anticipating our visit with feelings of 
real pleasure ; and they rejoiced over our safe arrival at their 
hospitable mansion. The presence of three Christian Ministers 
at this secluded spot was an event so unusual that it excited 
considerable interest among the people, who, together with our 
excellent host and hostess, did everything in their power to 
promote our comfort during our brief sojourn with them. 

The two following days were spent in viewing the country, 
conversing with the people, and in looking over Mr. Lindsay's 
agricultural, mechanical, and mercantile establishment. Our 



CHAP. V. — FIRST JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 517 

•enterprising friend ought to do well for both worlds ; for I have 
seldom met with any one who more fully exemplified the 
apostolical precept, " diligent in business, fervent in spirit, 
serving the Lord." He gives employment to a number of poor 
coloured men and their families, and, at the same time, carefully 
.attends to their moral and spiritual welfare. 

Sunday, the 28th, was a high day at Newmanville. Early in 
the morning the native prayer-meeting was held. In the fore- 
noon Mr. Eidgill preached an impressive sermon in Dutch, and 
the sacrament of the Lord's Supper was administered. In the 
afternoon I preached in English, and baptized Mr. Lindsay's 
infant, after which I attended the native Class Meeting, with 
which I was both pleased and profited. Mr. Jackson being an 
invalid, and wishing to be exempt from ministerial duty, Mr. 
Eidgill preached again in the evening. The whole of the 
•services were well attended, and a gracious influence rested 
upon the people. Erom what I witnessed this day, and from 
.the observations which I made during my visit, I was much 
impressed in favour of Mr. Lindsay's unwearied labours for 
the good of the people, and with the necessity of something 
being done to secure a more adequate supply of ministerial 
labour for this interesting station. 

Having accomplished the object of our visit, and collected 
^5uch information as might be of service in the future, early 
on the morning of Monday, the 1st of March, we set out 
on our return to Cape Town. The oxen being fresh and 
lively, we proceeded at a more rapid pace than usual during 
the forenoon. As the day began to wax hot, we outspanned 
for an hour or two at the foot of a stupendous mountain, and 
whilst the oxen were grazing in the valley we did ample justice 
to the provisions with which Mrs. Lindsay had so liberally 
supplied us for the journey. On proceeding onward, in a route 
different to that by which we had come, the scenery became 
grand and majestic beyond anything I had before witnessed. 
As we ascended the mountain along a steep and rugged road, 
we had on our right hand a deep kloof or ravine, thickly studded 
with gigantic trees, and on our left almost perpendicular cliffs 
towering above our heads. On reaching the summit, and 



518 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

commencing our descent on the western side of the rocky 
height, a prospect burst upon our view of a most charming 
character. At the foot of the mountain lay slumbering in a 
fertile valley the rural village of Bransche-Hoek, and the district 
and hamlet of Paarl stretched away into the dim distance on 
the one Land, and the town and neighbourhood of Stellenbosch 
on the other, whilst Table Mountain reared its lofty head in the 
regions still beyond. 

We outspanned for the night at Fransche-Hoek, and held a 
profitable little meeting with a few people, who soon collected 
together on hearing that a party of Missionaries had arrived. 
Having slept comfortably in the waggon, we inspanned early 
on Tuesday morning, the 2nd, and travelled two or three hours 
before we halted for breakfast. Being anxious to get home with 
as little delay as possible, I here left my friends and the waggon 
behind, took horse and rode to Stellenbosch, a distance of eight 
miles, arriving just in time to mount the omnibus for Cape 
Town, which I reached in safety about noon, having travelled 
upwards of forty miles since early morning. I was much gratified 
with this tour of observation, and returned home thankful to 
God for His preserving mercies, and glad to find that all had 
gone on well at the station during my absence. 

Although favourably impressed with the character of Bosch- 
jesveld and other districts of the verb erg Country, as pro- 
mising fields of missionary labour, it was not till several years 
afterward that we were able to make more adequate arrange- 
ments for the religious instruction of the long-neglected coloured 
population. In the mean time Mr. Lindsay was indefatigable 
in his efforts to diffuse the light of the Gospel, and the resident 
Minister of Somerset (West) visited the place as often as pos- 
sible. In the course of his business journeys Mr. Lindsay 
preached at the villages of Lady Gray, Bobertson, and Mon- 
tique ; and from the village of Swellendam I received a memo- 
rial signed by a considerable number of intelligent persons, 
earnestly pleading for a Wesleyan Missionary. These circum- 
stances, with other important considerations, led to a second 
journey to that part of the colony, and ultimately to the estab- 
lishment of two principal or central stations, some particulars 



CHAP. V. — FIRST JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 519 

concerning- which may perhaps be most conveniently given here, 
regard being had, in this instance, to geographical rather than 
chronological arrangement. 

Having made arrangements with the Eev. Joseph Tindall, 
the Missionary for the time being at Somerset (West), to pay 
another visit to the Overberg Country, I left home on Wednes- 
day, the ISth of February, 185 7, and travelled to Somerset by 
the omnibus. On my arrival in the evening I found that Mr. 
and Mrs. Tindall, with their usual kindness and forethought, 
had every thing ready for our journey. After an hour or two 
spent in agreeable conversation and prayer, we retired to rest 
early, to be ready for the duties of the morrow. 

At half-past two o'clock on the following morning we were 
up, inspanned, and commencing our journey ; for this time we 
travelled with a covered spring cart and two horses, and only 
a Hottentot boy to assist us. This I found to be a more expedi- 
tious and less troublesome mode of travelling for short journeys 
than with the lumbering ox-waggon, but not by any means so 
comfortable when a lodging is required in the desert. On this 
occasion, however, we travelled through from Somerset to 
Boschjesveld in one day, halting for a short time every two or 
three hours to rest the horses, and occasionally to take refresh- 
ment. We took the same road as on the occasion of my 
former visit, so that a description of the country is unnecessary. 
On reaching Newmauville we were again cordially welcomed by 
Mr. and Mrs. Lindsay, who hailed our visit to their interesting 
little station with evident tokens of joy. 

On Sunday, the 22nd, Mr. Tindall preached, in the morning, 
in Dutch, to a crowded and attentive congregation. In the after- 
noon I attended the Sabbath school and native Class Meeting, 
and baptized an adult : and in the evening I preached in Eng- 
lish, and administered the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper. 
This was indeed a day of spiritual blessing ; and I had abundant 
cause to rejoice over the advancement and improvement of the 
people in general intelligence and Christian knowledge since my 
former visit five years before. 

Having made arrangements for a journey to Robertson and 
Swellendam, with a view to collect information as to the prac- 



520 



PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 



ticability of extending our missionary labours to those places, I 
left Newmanville early on Monday morning, the 23rd instant, 
accompanied by Air. Tindall and Mr. Lindsay. On this occa- 
sion we travelled by ox-waggon, through the kindness of Mr, 
Lindsay, who furnished the entire equipage, that our horses might 
rest till our return. During the day we travelled through a 
country wild and rugged in the extreme, with signs of cultiva- 
tion "few and far between;" and, having repeatedly outspanned 
for rest and refreshment as usual, at eight o'clock p.m. we 
halted for the night about two miles from Robertson, after a 
weary day's journey of eighteen hours. 

We entered the village of Robertson at an early hour the 
following morning, and were pleased with the situation and 
appearance of the place. It lies in a gentle hollow, surrounded 
by hills of moderate elevation, and extensive farms in a tolerable 
state of cultivation. At ten o'clock a.m. we commenced a 
religious service in the open air, in connexion "with laying the 
foundation-stone of a little chapel to be built upon a lot of land 
secured for the purpose some time before. Mr. Lindsay per- 
formed the ceremony of laying the stone, after which he delivered 
a very earnest address. Mr. Tindall and I followed, and the 
meeting, which was well attended, considering the shortness of 
the notice, was concluded with prayer to God for His blessing 
on the enterprise. 

Having closed the service connected with laying the first 
stone of our new chapel at Eobertson, and partaken of a hasty 
dinner by the side of our waggon, we collected the oxen, in- 
spanned, and set out for Swellendam. Our cattle being fresh 
and in good condition, we travelled at a quick pace for six 
hours, and then halted for the night by the side of a brook, where 
we found grass for the oxen and wood for our evening fire. We 
started again early on the morning of Wednesday, the 25th, and 
travelled all day through a wilderness country, along the base of 
a ridge of lofty mountains, outspanning occasionally for rest and 
refreshment for man and beast. In the forenoon we saw a flock 
of ostriches, running and flapping their wings at a rapid rate. 
Soon afterwards one of our men shot a dukier deer which crossed 
our path ; and thus we were provided with a supply of game 



CHAP. V. — FIRST JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 521 

which lasted for two or three days. The horns of the animal 
were presented to me as a curiosity. After a comfortable lodging 
in the desert, we proceeded forward at an early hour on Thurs- 
day morning, and a scoff of three hours brought us close to the 
village of Swellendam, where we outspanned for breakfast. 

After attending to our toilet as best we could in the bush, we 
took a walk into the village, where we spent the day in visiting 
the public schools, conversing with a Wesleyan family or two, and 
other persons who had united in a memorial for a Wesleyan 
Missionary, and in interviews with Dr. Robertson, the Dutch 
Minister, and the Rev. Mr. Baker, the English Clergyman, whom 
we found very friendly and affable. We dined at the village 
hotel, where we met with some interesting company, which made 
us feel as if we had returned once more to the abodes of civiliza- 
tion. Having obtained the information we required, especially 
with reference to a Mr. Witstein, who had left the service of the 
Dutch Reformed Church, and collected a congregation of coloured 
persons, several of whom were included among those who had 
asked for a Wesleyan Missionary, we returned to our waggon in 
the afternoon, and immediately commenced our journey home- 
wards. We travelled till a late hour at night, before we en- 
camped once more in the desert. On Friday, the 27th, we 
travelled all day, occasionally halting as before for refreshment ; 
and in the evening we reached the vicinity of Robertson, where 
we outspanned for the night. On Saturday morning we entered 
the village, and proceeded to our former place of encampment, 
near the site of the new chapel, where we spent the day in pre- 
paring for the Sabbath. In the evening I preached in English, 
at the house of Mr. Greathead, whilst Mr. Tindall and Mr. 
Lindsay were engaged in holding a meeting in Dutch in another 
part of the village. 

Sunday, the 1st of March, was a high day at Robertson. In 
the forenoon the congregation which assembled was larger than 
any house would accommodate : we therefore arranged to hold 
the service in the open air, by our waggon ; and at ten o'clock 
Mr. Tindall preached an excellent sermon in Dutch ; after which 
I baptized two adults, father and daughter, who had been for 
some time under religious instruction, and who made a good 



522 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

confession before many witnesses. In the afternoon I preached 
again in English, and Mr. Lindsay in Dutch in the evening. A 
gracious influence attended all these services, and we felt en- 
couraged to hope that much good would result from the faithful 
preaching of the Gospel in this interesting part of the Lord's 
vineyard. 

At two o'clock on Monday morning the oxen were inspanned, 
and we renewed our homeward journey. We started thus early 
w T ith the hope of pushing through to Newmanville in one day ; 
but; although our halts for rest and refreshment were as few and 
as short as possible, we should have been disappointed, had not 
Mrs. Lindsay, with her usual forethought, sent a cart and horses 
to meet us. Availing ourselves of this quicker mode of tra- 
velling, w r e reached the residence of our kind host soon after 
dark, and left the waggon to follow the next morning. 

On the morning of Tuesday, the 3rd, about half-past one 
o'clock, we commenced our journey over the mountains with the 
cart and horses with which we came to Boschjesveld. After toil- 
ing hard all day, we reached Somerset in the evening. On 
Wednesday morning I arose again at an early hour, and left by 
the omnibus at half-past four. We reached Cjipe Town about 
ten; and after attending to the business which awaited me, I 
went out to Eondebosch, where I was thankful to find my dear 
wife had been preserved in health and comfort during my 
absence. 

These repeated tours of observations to the places which have 
been named, situated in the districts of Worcester and Swellen- 
dam, beyond the range of mountains which separates them from 
the Cape, and known as the Overberg Country, were not without 
fruit. Prom the very first I was deeply impressed with the good 
wdnch had attended the labours of Mr. Lindsay and the occa- 
sional visits of the Missionary from Somerset, and with the fact 
that a wide and promising field of missionary labour was pre- 
sented to the view among a large population of coloured peo- 
ple, for whose religious instruction no provision was made by 
any other society. Tor some time we were prevented from 
occupying this interesting sphere of usefulness by the want of 
adequate means, and other circumstances over which we had no 



CHAP. V. — FIRST JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 523 

control. At length, however, the way seemed to open up before 
us, and, with the aid and sanction of the Parent Society, two 
important principal stations or Circuits were organized and 
entered upon, an account of which may appropriately close the 
present chapter. 

Eobertson, a new village so called in honour of a venerable 
Doctor of Divinity and Minister of the Dutch Eeformed Church 
of that name, has already been mentioned in the preceding 
account of my missionary travels. Although it had only been 
formed a short time previous to my visit, I counted one hun- 
dred houses already finished and occupied, whilst several others 
were in progress of erection. A good Dutch church had just 
been completed, but no Minister had been appointed to occupy 
it, and no provision had been made for the religious wants of 
the coloured inhabitants. Being central to a large native 
population, employed on the surrounding farms, and a place 
rapidly rising into importance, this appeared to be the most 
suitable locality for the residence of a Missionary, and the head 
of our first new Circuit in the Overberg Country ; and it was 
accordingly entered upon in the year 1859. 

The first Missionary appointed to occupy this interesting 
sphere of labour was the Eev. Henry Tindall, a man well 
adapted for the important position, so remote from the super- 
vision and counsel of senior brethren, by his previous mission- 
ary training, and thorough knowledge of the Dutch language, 
in addition to his other good qualities as a zealous young 
Minister of the Gospel. Mr. Tindall entered upon his work at 
Eobertson and the neighbouring places in the true missionary 
spirit ; and he has continued to the present time to occupy the 
station with credit to himself and advantage to the people 
among whom he has laboured. In common with all new enter- 
prises, the prosecution of the missionary work at this place has 
been attended with difficulties ; but they have been successfully 
encountered, and the Circuit has now attained to a state of 
order and stability pleasing to contemplate. At Eobertson a 
commodious Mission-House has been erected ; and the little 
sanctuary, the foundation-stone of which was laid on the occa- 
sion of my first visit, is now being superseded by an elegant 






524 PAXT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

and substantial chapel better suited to the increasing congrega- 
tion. An excellent day school is conducted in the old chapel, 
which is henceforth to be used as a school-house ; and the 
zealous Native Teacher, himself the fruit of missionary labour, 
officiates on the Sabbath as a Local Preacher. During the first 
year after the Mission was organized, fifteen adults were received 
into the church by baptism, having given satisfactory evidence 
of a sincere desire to flee from the wrath to come, and been 
carefully instructed in the principles of the Christian religion. 
Each succeeding year has witnessed additional accessions to the 
number of the faithful, and now the congregation and church 
would compare favourably with those of any country. 

At Newmanville the good work has been impeded by unfore- 
seen difficulties ; and the'place being so remote from the centre 
of the Circuit, it has not had that advantage from the appoint- 
ment of a Missionary which was at first anticipated. There 
are, however, still a few faithful followers of Christ united in 
church fellowship, who are themselves remarkable instances of 
His saving power, and who hail the visits of the Missionary 
with feelings of unspeakable joy. It is hoped that brighter 
days are in store for this interesting out-station. At the rising 
village of Lady Grey, notwithstanding the poverty of the peo- 
ple and other difficulties, a little chapel has been erected, and 
a blessed work of grace experienced. During the first year of 
the Missionary's labour, seventeen adults were baptized at this 
place, many of whom were savingly converted to God ; and, 
since that period, many more have been added to the church, 
such as, we trust, will be finally saved. The Missionary has 
also extended his labours to the village of Montagu, where the 
consistory of the Dutch Reformed Church generously granted a 
site for a Wesleyan chapel, and where an encouraging measure 
of success has already been realized. 

Adequately to supply so many places remote from each other, 
and separated in some instances by mountain ranges and broad 
rivers, imposes a heavy tax on the time and strength of the Mis- 
sionary ; but Mr. Tindall has hitherto been wonderfully sus- 
tained and blessed in his work. He can now look with pleasure 
upon a well organized Circuit, with good congregations, pros- 



CHAP. V. — FIRST JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOE. 525 

perous schools, and one hundred and twenty-six members 
nnited together in church fellowship. 

Swellendam was the next place occupied by the Wesleyan 
Missionary Society in the Overberg Country. Our entrance 
upon this sphere of labour was under circumstances somewhat 
peculiar. Mention has already been made of a memorial which 
I received at an early period from a large number of the 
coloured portion of the population, earnestly requesting a Mis- 
sionary, to which we were at that time unable to respond ; and 
of the fact that several of these same people had afterwards 
placed themselves under the care of a Mr. Witstein, who had 
formerly been a Catechist in connexion with the Dutch Ee- 
formed Church. In the early part of the year 1862, this 
gentleman, wishing to withdraw from the position which he had 
taken, and remove from the country, made an offer of his con- 
gregation, school, and premises to our Society, which was 
ultimately accepted, with the concurrence of the people. To 
meet the emergency, in the month of April, Mr. John Thorne, a 
candidate for our ministry, w T as sent to Swellendam, to take 
charge of the new station, under the supervision of the Mission- 
ary at Eobertson. 

Considering the novel and somewhat difficult circumstances 
in which he was placed, Mr. Thome gave evidence of a mea- 
sure of judgment, prudence, and zeal, truly remarkable for one 
so young and comparatively inexperienced. He had succeeded 
in gaining the attachment and confidence of the people, and 
was in every respect doing well, when he was called to remove 
to a new sphere of labour in the Eastern Province, and the 
Eev. William Barber was appointed to succeed him at Swellen- 
dam. Although not in robust health, having previously 
laboured in India, Mr. Barber possessed some amiable qualities 
which recommended and fitted him for his new position. 
Naturally of a kind and genial disposition, and endowed with 
ministerial gifts of a somewhat popular character, he won the 
esteem and confidence of all with whom he came in contact. 
The Missionary was ably assisted by Mr. Henry Geyer, whose 
services were engaged as Teacher and Local Preacher ; and 
their united labours weve successful in gathering many into 



$26 PAET III. — THE CAPE OE GOOD HOPE. 

the fold of Christ, fifty-nine being reported as church 
members. 

More eligible premises had been purchased and fitted up as a 
chapel, and the hope was entertained that the Missionary and 
his assistant would be able to visit several neighbouring places, 
and organize an extensive and important Circuit, after the plan 
of Robertson, when, on the 17th of May, 1865, a great part of 
the village of Swellendarn was destroyed by fire, and the TVes- 
leyan Mission premises were laid in ruins. This calamity has 
put a temporary check to the progress of the work ; but recent 
communications from the Cape afford ground for hope that the 
Mission premises will soon be rebuilt, and that this station will 
yet answer its original design as a centre of light and influence 
to all around, and ultimately to the regions bevond. 



CHAPTER VI. 

SECOND JOURNEY 10 THE KTKBIOE. 

Commencement of Journey — Malmsbury — Crossing Berg River — Heere 
Lodgment — Remarkable Cavern — Sabbath at a Farm House — Travelling 
in the "Wilderness — Ebenezer Station — Crossing Elephant River — The 
Caroo Desert — Bethel's Klip — Happy Sabbath — Xaniaqua Messenger 
— Crossing the Great Orange River — Sand Fountain — Xisbett Bath 
— Sabbath Services — Native Encampment — Jerusalem — Hoole's Foun- 
tain — Meeting around the Camp Fire — Journey homeward — Poor 
Bushwoman — Norap — Khamiesberg — Snow Storm — Return to the 
Cape. 

At an early period of my residence in Southern Africa, I 
xeceived interesting communications from the Missionaries 
labouring in Little and Great Namaqualand, the most distant 
stations in the Cape of Good Hope District. In these com- 
munications they frequently sought my counsel and advice on 
subjects connected with their labours, concerning which I could 
form but a very imperfect judgment, from want of a personal 



CHAP. VI. — SECOND JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 527 

acquaintance with the country in which they lived, and the 
peculiar character of the work in which they were engaged. 
There were, moreover, some important matters pending, which 
seemed to require my personal attention, and which rendered a 
visit to our most remote interior stations very desirable. 

Tor some time my numerous official and ministerial duties at 
the Cape rendered it impracticable for me to leave home for the 
length of time which would be required for such a journey. At 
length the way seemed to open ; and the necessary preparations 
having been made on Monday morning, the 4th of July, 1853, 1 
left my home at Eondebosch, near Cape Town, accompanied by 
my friend Mr. James Morris, who had kindly undertaken to be 
my guide and travelling companion. A journey of many hundreds 
of miles in the interior of South Africa is sometimes attended 
with considerable difficulty, privation, and danger ; and it was not 
without feelings of deep emotion that I took leave of my dear 
wife and Christian friends ; not knowing what might befall me 
in the course of my travels ; but I felt that I could still confide 
in the God of Missions, who had so wonderfully preserved me 
in other lands, and who is unchangeable in His nature, — " the 
same yesterday, to-day, and for ever." 

It would have been very pleasant and agreeable to me, if we 
could have performed this long journey by ox-waggon, which is 
certainly the most comfortable mode of travelling through the 
wilds of Africa, as it affords ample accommodation for the con- 
veyance of stores and for lodging in the wilderness, as already 
described. But this kind of arrangement would have occupied 
more time than I could conveniently spare on this occasion. I, 
therefore, gladly availed myself of the use of a light covered 
spring cart, and four horses, offered for the journey by Mr. 
Morris, with a spare horse, and a native servant, to assist us at 
our encampments. 

The first day we travelled about forty-five miles over the Cape 
Plats, leaviag the little village of D 'Urban on the right, and 
proceeding to the residence of Mr. Basson, near Malmsbury, 
where we arrived just after sunset, and where we were enter- 
tained with the kindness and hospitality for which the Dutch 
boers, or farmers, are so justly famed at the Cape. The following 



528 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

morning we passed through the neat little village of Malmsbury r 
at an early hour, and ascended a considerable hill, beyond which 
we lost sight of Table Mountain, and proceeded through the 
district of Swartland. The scenery now became very interesting, 
assuming all at once the majestic proportions and rugged wild- 
ness of the interior. On the right hand and on the left were 
mountains of considerable altitude, the summits of which were 
covered with snow ; whilst the low lands and valleys were spotted 
with numerous farms, separated from each other by extensive 
heaths of pasture land, covered in many places with stunted 
bushes, but totally destitute of forest trees. Having outspanned 
several times during the day, to prepare our food, and allow the 
horses time to graze, in the evening we came to Berg Paver, 
which we crossed without difficulty by means of a punt suffi- 
ciently large to convey both horses and cart over at once. We 
obtained accommodation for the night at the house of Mir. 
Turone, on the northern bank of the river. 

On the morning of "Wednesday, the 6th. we inspanned early, 
and, the road being tolerably good, proceeded on our journey at 
a rapid rate. Our path now led through a long valley, skirting 
the foot of an elevated mountain called Picquet Berg ; and we 
had a distant view of a neat little village, which bears the same 
name, and the last in the colony in this direction. In the 
evening we reached the farm of Mr. Bosman, where we were 
kindly furnished with lodgings, and every thing we required for 
ourselves and our horses. The next morning, the good people 
having supplied us with a cup of coffee at an early hour, and 
presented us with a loaf of bread, and a few oranges, we pro- 
ceeded on our journey through heavy sandy roads, which, 
together with the dry state of the country, and the scarcity of 
°rass, made travelling very difficult. ^Ve walked many miles 
this day to relieve the horses ; and about an hour after sunset we 
came to the residence of Mr. P. Tan Zeyl, where we met with 
a cordial reception and hospitable entertainment for the night. 

On Friday morning we ascended a steep rocky hill with con- 
siderable difficulty; and about noon we outspanned in a fertile 
little valley, with a beautiful stream of water running through 
the centre. Here we lighted a fire, as usual, and prepared our- 



CHAP. VI. — SECOND JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 529 

midday meal, and afterwards read a portion of Scripture and 
sang a hymn in Dutch, and offered up prayer and praise to our 
God, according to usual custom, when time will admit. This was 
one of those lovely spots in the wilderness which are occasionally 
met with, and where we would gladly have stayed a little longer, 
for both men and horses were weary ; but the advancing day 
admonished us to inspan and move forward. During the afternoon 
we toiled on at a slow pace through heavy sandy roads ; and in the 
evening we reached Uitkomts, the residence of Mr. H. Yan 
Zeyl, and a place well known as the Missionaries' resting place. 
We were received and entertained with the kindness and hos- 
pitality for which this family have always been so famed ; and 
on leaving the next morning our stock of provisions was 
replenished, with the addition of a jar of butter and a loaf of 
bread, of which our hostess begged our acceptance. 

In the course of the day on Saturday we were overtaken with, 
heavy rain, which, together with the deep sandy nature of the 
roads over which we had to pass, rendered travelling very un- 
comfortable. The wind and rain were so violent that it was 
with considerable difficulty that we lighted a fire and boiled the 
kettle, when we out spanned at noon. Having at length pre- 
pared a comfortable cup of coffee, — our usual beverage, — we 
proceeded on our journey with renewed courage, notwithstand- 
ing the storm which still beat in our faces. In the evening, 
wet and weary, we reached the farm-house called Heere Lodg- 
ment, " Gentleman's lodgings; " but, alas for us and our poor 
horses ! Mr. Foster, the owner, was from home with his family, 
and the house was locked up. Near this place is a remarkable 
cave, described by the traveller Yaillant, in which we gladly 
took shelter, remembering that our Lord and Master had not 
where to lay His head. From the numerous inscriptions cut in 
the rocky walls of this noted cavern, I observed that it must 
have been visited at an early period. Besides the names of 
several esteemed Missionaries of comparatively modern date, I 
noted the foUowing : "Casper Hem, 1712;" " F. Yaillant, 
1785." From a fissure in the rock in the centre of the cavern 
a remarkable tree projects its stunted branches, which hang 
pendent over head, and in which I counted seven birds* 

M If 



530 



PAKT IH. — THE CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. 



nests, the inmates of which kept up a constant chatter. We 
had just lighted a fire, and cooked part of a wild buck which we 
had purchased from a native hunter returning from the chase, 
when Mr. Poster, having heard of our arrival, sent us the key 
of his dwelling house, to which we gladly adjourned after dark, 
and where we found accommodation for the night more in 
accordance with the name of the place, than Ave should have had 
in the dark damp cavern in which we had taken shelter in the 
mean time. 

Having the use of the farm-house at Heere Lodgment entirely to 
ourselves, Mr. Morris and I, with our Hottentot servant, spent a 
quiet comfortable Sabbath in religious conversation, reading, and 
prayer. Neither were we entirely without a congregation and op- 
portunities of doing good. Observing that a number of labourers 
and domestics had come in from the field, and from the out 
place where the farmer and his family were staying, we collected 
them together, to the number of about a dozen coloured men 
and women, with whom we sang, prayed, and read the Scrip- 
tures in their native language, giving them also such exhorta- 
tions and instructions as their circumstances seemed to require. 
I also distributed a few Dutch tracts, hoping that the seed 
thus sown might spring up and bear fruit after many days. As 
there was no prospect of communicating with the Cape again 
for several weeks to come, we embraced the opportunity of send- 
ing letters to our friends from this place, via Clanwiliiam, a 
village about twenty miles distant. 

On Monday morning, the 11th, we proceeded on our journey, 
and soon entered upon a tract of country very thinly inhabited, 
and where a farm-house was scarcely to be seen. We occasion- 
ally met with a mat hut, however ; at one of which we purchased 
a loaf of brown bread, which we regarded as a valuable acquisi- 
tion. At night we encamped among some bushes far from any 
human habitation, and where nothing was to be heard but the 
loud screaming of the jackal prowling about in search of his 
nightly prey. The air was cold ; but we soon lighted a fire, 
with which we cooked our evening meal, and around which we 
sat for several hours with some degree of comfort, engaged in 
conversation, reading, and prayer. At length we wrapped our 



CHAP. VI. — SECOND JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 531 

blankets around us, and retired to rest in the cart, in prefer- 
ence to sleeping on the cold damp ground, which had been 
drenched with the recent storm. 

The next morning we found the surrounding country enveloped 
in a dense fog, so that we were unable to find our horses for a 
length of time. After travelling about four hours through deep 
heavy sand, we came to Ebenezer, a station of the Rhenish 
Missionary Society, on the southern bank of the Elephant's 
River. Our German brethren have here a good church, and a 
commodious dwelling-house for the Missionary and his Teacher; 
but the huts of the natives are very poor, and the station has 
had to contend with many difficulties, arising from the unfavour- 
able situation of the place, and the sterility of the soil. SAVe 
were kindly received by the Rev. F. Juffernbruch, the resident 
Missionary, and Mr. Clare, the Teacher ; and our own wants 
and those of our horses were supplied iu a spirit of true Chris- 
tian hospitality. Having refreshed and rested ourselves, and 
very much enjoyed an hour's conversation with these Christian 
brethren, we proceeded forward to the Elephant's River, which 
is here about a hundred yards wide, and very deep ; but which 
we crossed without much difficulty by means of a large boat, in 
which we placed ourselves and the cart, our horses nobly swim- 
ming in our wake. After resting for a short time on the northern 
bank of the river, we inspanned and proceeded on our journey. 

We now entered upon a wild and dreary desert country, 
known as the Karoo or Ardevelt, where a human being is 
seldom seen, and where travelling is rendered very difficult by 
the scarcity of water and grass. Hitherto we had been able 
to obtain forage for the horses occasionally at the farm-houses 
which we met with on^the road ; but now>e had to trust to the 
scanty herbage of the desert. Eor three days in succession we 
travelled over these desolate rocky regions, halting occasionally 
during the day to graze the horses, and to prepare our food, 
and at night encamping in the bush in the most sheltered 
situations we could find. Sometimes we had to dig in the 
bed of a periodical river before we could obtain a supply of 
water ; and when procured it was frequently so brackish and 
nauseous, that it was difficult to use it. Often did I think, in 

2 M 2 



532 



PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 






"the course of this journey, " How little the people of England 
know of the labours, privations, and sufferings of their Mission- 
aries in foreign lands 1 " 

At length, having entered Little Namaqualand, we beheld 
with delight, although at a great distance, the elevated moun- 
tain range, the highest of which is Khamiesberg ; and about 
sunset on the evening of Friday, the 15th, we reached Bethel, 
an out-post of the Lily Fountain Mission station, where 
the Missionary and most of the people reside during the 
winter season. We were received and entertained with true 
Christian hospitality by the B,ev. John A. Bailie and his amiable 
wife and family, who did every thing in their power to render 
our visit pleasant and agreeable. 

This out-station takes its name from a huge stone, about two 
hundred and fifty feet long, forty feet broad, and sixty feet high, 
which lies in the centre of a narrow valley, and near which the 
Missionaries' residence and chapel have been erected. By the 
mouldering hand of time, or by some convulsive shake of the earth, 
this stupendous boulder has been broken into three nearly equal 
pieces, which are separated from each other by narrow chasms ; 
but it is still a most striking and picturesque object. It was 
beneath a projecting portion of this rock that the venerable 
Barnabas Shaw, the founder of the Mission, used to hold religious 
services in the year 1819, previous to the erection of the present 
chapel. On one occasion an old JSTamaqua Chief, having heard 
an explanation of the word " Bethel," declared that from hence- 
forth this remarkable stone should bear that name, as it had 
often proved the house of God and the gate of heaven to those 
who had worshipped under its shadow. 

I spent most of the day on Saturday in conversation with Mr. 
Bailie on various matters relating to the spiritual and temporal 
interests of this important station, and especially in examining 
a diagram of the institution lands, which I had brought with 
me from the Surveyor- General's office in Cape Town, to test the 
respective boundaries on the spot, with a view to a final settle- 
ment with the Government of the long-pending question of the 
rights of the people. In the afternoon a number of natives 
arrived at the station from a distance, some in waggons and 



CHAP. TI. — SECOND JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 533 

some on horseback, to pay their respects to (i oud Mynheer/' 
and be ready for the services of the Sabbath. 

At an early hour on Sunday morning I was awoke by the 
singing of the natives, who had already assembled in the 
adjoining chapel to hold their prayer-meeting. I immediately 
arose and joined them in their devotions. The chapel was half- 
full of people. The prayers were offered partly in Dutch and 
partly in Namaqua ; and, although I could not understand much 
that was said, their supplications were apparently so sincere and 
so fervent that I felt it good to be there. At ten o'clock I 
preached to an attentive congregation of about two hundred 
Namaquas, Mr. Bailie kindly interpreting. There was an evident 
manifestation of Divine influence, and it was a season long to 
be remembered. At the close of the service I read a beautiful, 
simple, and affectionate letter, of which I was the bearer, from 
their old friend and Minister, the venerable Barnabas Shaw. 
This letter was written in Dutch, and addressed to the congre- 
gation ; and it adverted to some incidents connected with his 
first coming amongst them, when they were sitting in heathen 
darkness, and to the great change which the Gospel had produced, 
with suitable exhortations and admonitions as to their future 
conduct. AYhen I presented the letter, after reading it to old 
Gert Links, in the name and on behalf of the rest of the people, 
and charged him to read it asain and again, tears stood in 
many eyes ; and, with a heart evidently full, the old man said, 
" Ja, Mynheer, wy vergeten onze oucle Leeraars niet, maar wy 
hebbm ze nog lief. Toen Mynheer Shaw is eerst onder ons gekomen, 
Jieeft liy ons eenen kostelyken solicit, meer Jcostelyh dan goud 
gelragt" " Yes, Sir, we do not forget our old teachers, but we 
love them still. When Mr. Shaw first came among us, he brought 
us a treasure more precious than gold." In the afternoon Mr. Bailie 
preached an energetic sermon in Dutch, after which Mr. Morris 
gave an exhortation. In the evening I preached again in English, 
chiefly for the benefit of the Mission family ; but I was glad 
to see most of the natives on the station present. This, also, 
was a season of blessing, for which we felt thankful. 

On Monday morning, the 13th, we obtained a span of fresh 
horses; and, having been abundantly supplied by Mrs. Bailie 






534 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

with the necessary additions to our stove of provisions, we took 
a temporary leave of our kind friends at Bethel, and proceeded 
on our journey towards Great Namaqualand. We bad a little 
trouble with our new horses at first, as some of them had evi- 
dently not been accustomed to draw in harness ; but after a while 
we travelled along very comfortably. Mr. Bailie accompanied. 
us for a few miles, and showed us the Society's flock of sheep 
and goats, which were browsing on the plain under the care of a 
native shepherd. In the evening we outspanned in a nice 
sheltered spot, called Hass Bevier, where we found both grass 
and water, as well as plenty of fuel for our lire. 

The next two days were spent in travelling through a dreary 
desolate country, called Bushmanland, in which — after leaving 
Springbok Fonteiu, where we rested for an hour — we scarcely 
saw a human being, save a wandering Bushman or two, who 
timidly approached our encampment to beg for tobacco. 
Having passed a rocky hill called Gezelscaap, where we obtained 
a supply of water from a hollow in the rock, and crossed an 
extensive plain, where a large floek of deer were browsing, we 
began to ascend the mountain range which marks the track of 
the Great Orange River. 

After a long and weary day's journey, we had encamped for 
the night, and were comfortably seated around our evening fires 
on Thursday, the 26th, when a Xamaqua messenger presented 
himself, and handed me a letter from the Bev. Joseph Tindall, 
which I read by the flickering light of the fire as follows : — 

"Nisbett Bath, July \%th> 1853. 

"Dear Brother, — Tour letter of the 1st of June was 
safely delivered at this place a fortnight ago ; and we were all 
glad to hear that you were making arrangements to visit these 
distant stations. We remember you in our prayers to our hea- 
venly Father from day to day, that He may bring you to us in 
health and safety. I ascertained a few days ago that the Great 
Orange Biver was fordabie ; nevertheless, I send a man to-day 
to watch the motions of the stream. Should it rise, he is 
instructed to leave this note in charge of some one to be 
delivered to you, and return with speed to let us know, that the 



CHAP. VI. — SECOND JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 535 

■boat may be sent by waggon to be at the river on Friday 
morning ; but, if the river remains fordable, he is to await your 
.arrival, and assist you in crossing. With considerable emotion 
we await your approach to this station, and we shall hail your 
•arrival with grateful hearts. Sincerely praying that every 
blessing may attend you, and with kind regards for Mr. Morris, 
" I remain, yours affectionately, 
"Rev. W. Moister. " Joseph Tindall." 

The messenger had walked about eighty miles ; and, he having 
thus faithfully executed his commission, we felt in some measure 
relieved from our anxiety as to the state of the Great Eiver. 
We arose early next morning, and travelled for several hours 
■am on 2: the most wild and rugged mountain scenery that I ever 
beheld ; suggesting to the mind the idea of these desolate 
regions being the very outskirts of creation. After gradually 
descending into the valley for several hours more, about noon 
we came in sight of the long-expected Great Orange Eiver, 
which we found quite low and fordable, agreeable to the report 
of '"Mr. TindalPs messenger. After outspanning for refreshment 
and rest for an hour or two, on the southern bank of the river, 
.and collecting a few pebbles as curiosities, we crossed over 
without any difficulty, and pursued our journey up the gentle 
ascent on the other side. 

On a careful measurement I found the bed of the Orange 
Eiver at this "drift," or ford, to be five hundred yards wide, 
and the banks are lined with beautiful green trees, chiefly ebony 
and willow, the hardest and the softest of woods growing in 
close proximity to each other. This perpetual verdure gives a 
freshness to the scene truly delightful after passing through the 
barren wilderness previously traversed. The mighty stream must 
be a noble object, when it fills its spacious bed from side to side, 
as is the case for several months in the year ; and the process of 
crossing must be attended with considerable danger and diffi- 
culty when rafts have to be constructed, and native swimmers 
employed to float the traveller and his baggage over. This was 
the only method by which the Missionary, with his wife and 
family and waggon and stores, could formerly cross this great 



I 






536 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

river in former years, till a small boat was procured through 
the exertions of the Rev. B. Kidsdale and the liberality of our 
Cape-Town friends. It has been of essential service to the 
Mission ; but, having to be kept at the Nisbett Bath Station, it 
has to be conveyed on a waggon a distance of seventy miles, 
before it can be used. Such are frequently the difficulties and 
inconveniences of travelling in South Africa. In our case, on 
this occasion, we were providentially saved from the danger and 
delay so frequently experienced. 

Having now passed beyond the boundary of the Cape Colony, 
and entered Great Namaqualand, we pursued our course for 
several hours up a gradual ascent of deep sandy road, till we 
again reached a considerable altitude. From the scarcity of 
water in these parts we were obliged to keep travelling on 
through most of the night, with occasional short outspannings, 
to allow our poor jaded horses to crop a little of the scanty her- 
bage which these dreary regions afford. Soon after midnight 
we came to a place called Sand Fontein, to which we had long 
looked forward with the pleasing hope of obtaining an ample 
supply of the precious liquid, which is more valuable than gold 
in the African desert. But on leading our five horses down to the 
fountain, I was bitterly disappointed to find that it only con- 
tained about a bucket of dirty water. We used the precaution 
of first filling our teakettle, after which the thirsty animals 
plunged their mouths in all at once, and soon drained the foun- 
tain dry. We took a spade and cleared out the well in the 
hope that a little more water might filter into it, while we were 
lighting a fire and preparing a cup of coffee, which was actually 
the case ; but the quantity was so small that, after allowing the 
horses to drink as much as they could get, we inspanned again 
and travelled forward as best we could. 

When the day dawned, on Saturday, the 23rd, we found our- 
selves in a more favourable position, and we outspanned for 
breakfast. On resuming our journey I rode forward on horse- 
back in advance of the cart for several hours : and on reaching; 
a place called Luries Fontein, on the margin of an extensive 
plain where the scenery assumes quite a different aspect, I un- 
expectedly met the Eev. Henry Tindall coming to meet us, witL 



CHAP. VI. — SECOND JOURNEY TO THE INTEBIOK. 537 

a native servant, and a bag of grass for our horses. Mr. Tindall 
kindly returned with me to the station, whilst the men went for- 
ward with the grass to meet Mr. Morris, w 7 ho was following with 
the cart and horses. After travelling about ten miles further, we 
reached Nisbett Bath, where we were joined in the evening by 
Mr. Morris, and where we met with a most affectionate and hearty 
reception from the Eev. Joseph Tindall and his excellent wife, 
who did everything in their power to make us comfortable 
during our sojourn with them. 

The Missionaries who have at different periods occupied this 
station have laboured under many difficulties, arising from the 
sterility of the soil, the scattering of the people in seasons of 
drought, the peculiarities of the Namaqua language, and other 
hinderances to the progress of the work ; but it is a pleasing fact 
that they have not laboured in vain, or spent their strength for 
nought. The word preached has often come with power to the 
hearts of the people ; and gracious outpourings of the Holy 
Spirit and genuine revivals of religion have sometimes been ex- 
perienced which would compare favourably with those of any 
other country. It is true that from the causes already stated 
the work is liable to fluctuate; but a mere casual observer 
traversing the country cannot fail to mark the great change 
which has passed upon the people since they received the 
Gospel. 

On the occasion of my visit to the Nisbett Bath station, I 
found upwards of two hundred members united in church fellow- 
ship, and about the same number of children attending the 
Mission school during the most favourable seasons of the year. 
Having anticipated my visit, the natives had come in consider- 
able numbers from the out-places where they had been staying 
with their cattle on account of the drought. I counted as mani- 
as thirteen waggons, all belonging to the natives. Some of 
these had come fifty, and others a hundred miles, to participate 
in the services of the Sabbath, and to pay their respects to 
" oud Mynheer," as they are pleased to call the General Super- 
intendent. The interest which the people manifest in their 
Ministers is truly pleasing, and forcibly reminded me of the affec- 
tion of the converted Negroes of Western Africa and the West 



535 PAET III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

5 for those whc hare brought to them the glad tidings of sal- 
ilighted from mj horse on Saturday i 
noon, when I was surround:-.", by the I the station, 

all anxious tc shake hands and to welcome my arriv 

The services :f the Sabbath were also of a most : 
-.cter. At the .mat of day the native prayer-meeting 
held, and was well attended. In the forenoon I preached to a 
large a:: a attentive mammae:::::, hlha Henry Tindall, a young 
Missionary jnst entering hh ranks, interpreting into Nam: 
In the afternoon Air. Joseph Tindall, his honoured father, eon- 
ducted the servi n pres shed in Da1 :h. the less : in end sermon 
bei g rendered into Namaqua by native int e r pre ters, with whose 
performance I was mnehpl ing I prea e 1 

in English, chiefly foi the benefit :: the Mission family, most of 
the natives attending as before. I was much lelighted by the 
evident levotion and the sweet fa rmonions singing :: this dear 
people; and when I ::. ; their poverty, and sawsu 

mem- :::::;;. :: them v fectly dothed with sheep- 

skins. I thought of the somfort and affluence of then ait :: 
British Christians who. I felt sure, wzvdd be _a a tc assist these 
poor Xamaquas. if they :; tness their iestitnticn. 

Having made arrangements t: visit Hoole's Foe hma 

had been recently formed intc a cem.har Circuit about seventy- 



dies Brom Nisi stt b :h. 


I St: rat ah 


met n: 


e n 


:.. Mon 


aav, 


the C : th. with a wa 




. : a, s i 








rno i 




accompanied bv Mr. 


n . JLi 


:':.. Ml 


Mc 


rris. an 




three Xa 


ma- 


c-aes. Tne read le 




a rati: 


isive 






we cam 


: 10 


Amx River, a ema: a 


ical strea 


no . d : " : 


- nea 


:hv aes 








Here we encammed 


m ;ae n 


mm. aa 


id [ 


"COrcdc 






: an 


earhv h:nr next ma 


C D 1 d a" • i 


laving 


hi a: 


that 




cmesme: 


a me 


iiuuibm :: the peoj 


e ':.}.:. r 


amoved 


:: : n 


. the s 


tat 


lou in co 


nse- 


caaence of the m:a_ 


at. we d: 


reoted 




course 


t 


tne ma: 


e of 


their encampment. 


We ::a 


an tne 


list 


-.nee gi 


■ea 


ter taaa 


we 


exj ectc a. ana dad : 


.:: reach 


the ice) 




tema : 




y vmmge. 


ttm 


a late honr e:e Ties. 




ig. In 
e c a i K i 


-^;; 


ov wnic 


h 


we were 


: tv 


in finding the place 




s na- 


, : e j t'd l? r 1- T : ~ 


. ■ . ... ^ - : ; 


^ . ,. _. 


tne ] 






t a e a a r _ 
lirnht of 


me o; 


of doors, the I: -ha. 




and t; 


the 



CHAP. YI. — SECOND JOUKXEY TO THE INTERIOR. 539 

night fires. When the people were apprised of our arrival, they 
came out of their huts, and manifested their joy in every possible 
way. Having conducted us with lighted torches to a place 
where the waggons might conveniently stand, near their tem- 
porary place of worship, they threw their torches on a heap, and 
lighted a cheerful fire. We were soon presented with an abundant 
supply of new milk; and having partaken of our evening meal, 
the people assembled around the fire, and we held a delightful 
religious service. The hymns and the prayers were in Dutch ; 
but, from the mixed character of the congregation, it was thought 
desirable to put the discourse before them in English, Dutch, 
and Xamaqua, especially as it contained matters of great im- 
portance both to their temporal and eternal interests. The 
attendance was good, especially of women and children ; and it 
would have been still larger, but, in order to obtain a supply of 
food, one hundred men and ten waggons belonging to this party 
had gone on a great hunting expedition to a considerable dis- 
tance, and were expected to be absent several weeks. 

After a comfortable night's rest in the waggon, we started 
early on Wednesday morning on a hasty visit to the respective 
stations in this neighbourhood, travelling on horseback. A 
rapid ride of two and a half hours brought us to Jerusalem, a 
lovely little village, with two good fountains ; which not only 
afford an ample supply of drinking water for man and beast, 
but which are also used for the irrigation of several small 
gardens, surrounded by camel-thorn trees, giving quite a 
charming appearance to the place. Many years ago this was a 
station of the London Missionary Society for a short time, but 
was relinquished on account of various adverse circumstances. 
It is now an important outpost connected with the Hoole's 
Fountain station. I examined the remains of a dwelling- 
house built by the Rev. Messrs. Albrecht and Moffatt, and 
advised the people to repair the walls, construct a roof, and fit 
it up as a native chapel, that a spot endeared by so many pleas- 
ing associations might still be held sacred for Christ and His 
Gospel. We held an interesting little service with the people 
in the open air; and having partaken of a cup of tea, which the 
people kindly prepared for us in an old iron pot, — for they had 






540 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

no kettle, — we rode forward to Hoole's Fountain, which we 
reached about noon. 

Much as I had been pleased with Jerusalem, I was still more 
delighted with this place. The fountain is stronger, the garden 
ground more extensive, and the surrounding scenery grand 
beyond description. The village is situated near the bed of a 
periodical river, in which grow a number of camel-thorn, ebony, 
and other trees ; and, at a short .distance beyond, a range of 
table mountains rise to a considerable elevation, the horizontal 
summits of which are fringed with the graceful Koker-boom. 
The mud-built chapel was in a very dilapidated state ; but was 
to be thatched anew and otherwise repaired, when the men 
returned from their hunting expedition. Arrangements were also 
in progress for the erection of a dwelling-house for the Mission- 
ary, that he might live among the people, instead of having to 
visit them from Nisbett Bath. Having fixed upon the site of the 
proposed new buildings, and arranged other important matters, 
about sunset we returned to our waggon, at the place where 
most of the Hoole's Fountain people were staying with their 
cattle ; having ridden about forty miles during the day. 

On our arrival at the encampment, we found the people had 
been preparing for the evening service. The school children 
had collected a large pile of faggots for the evening fire, and 
their parents had brought to the w T aggon more milk than wo 
could use. By the time we had taken some refreshment, the 
fire was lighted, the people had assembled around it, and we 
proceeded at once to engage in the solemn worship of Almighty 
God. This was, without exception, one of the most interesting 
religious services which I ever attended in any country. The 
mode of proceeding was the same as the night before, with th@ 
addition of a fellowship-meeting, at which several of the natives 
gave a very pleasing account of their religious experience. 
Never shall I forget the emotions of my own heart, whilst gazing 
upon this motley group of natives, listening to the word of life, 
as the flickering glare of the fire revealed their sable faces to 
view in the more distant parts of the crowd. When I adverted 
to their former state of heathen darkness, when the Afrikaaners, 
under the notorious warrior Chief Titus, before his conversion 



CHAP. VI. — SECOND JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 541 

to God, and the Bundle-Z warts, under the Chief Abram, met 
in deadly conflict near the place where we were now assembled ; 
and when I pointed to the contrast now, when Afrikaaners and 
Bundle-Zwarts, with their wives and children, could meet together 
in peace and harmony, and mingle their voices in the worship 
of God without fear ; a thrill of deepest feeling seemed to vibrate 
in every heart, and tears started in many eyes. It was a scene on 
which an angel might have gazed with sacred joy. Yea, I believe 
the Lord of angels looked upon us with Divine complacency. 

The next morning the people were at our encampment before 
daylight, as we had promised to hold one more service with 
them before our departure. We assembled in the native chapel, 
as they are pleased to call it, which is nothing more than a 
smooth spot of ground enclosed with a high fence of bushes, 
to preserve it from being polluted by the cattle, without any 
covering overhead, but furnished with a pulpit or stand at one 
side under a shady tree. I counted about one hundred, men, 
women, and children, assembled at this early hour, to whom 
Mr. H. Tindall preached in Namaqua, and to whom I gave 
a parting exhortation. I was happy to learn that about 
sixty of the people on this station were united in church fel- 
lowship, giving satisfactory proof of a sincere desire to flee from 
the wrath to come. At the close of this early morning meet- 
ing we took an affectionate leave of this dear people, who all 
crowded around us to shake hands ; and, as the waggon moved 
off, many seemed affected at the thought that they might see 
our faces no more in the flesh. Having travelled all that day 
and all the next night, we mounted our horses, and rode for- 
ward to the Bath, which we reached about noon on Friday, the 
waggon following on afterwards. 

Saturday, the 30th, was spent in general business engage- 
ments, and consultation with the Missionaries, as to the best 
mode of carrying on the work of God on these remote and 
peculiar stations. On inspecting the Mission premises, I was 
pleased to observe the improvements recently made by Mr. J. 
Tindall, both in the house and chapel, reflecting as they do 
great credit on the exertions of the Missionary and the efforts of 
the people, little expense having devolved upon the Society's 



542 PAET III. — THE CAPE CF GOOD HOPE. 

funds thereby. In the afternoon I visited the burial-ground, 
for the purpose of viewing the graves of the Rev. E. Cook and 
several children of Missionaries. I also inspected the warm 
bath, or hot spring, for which this place is so famous. I found 
the water almost as hot as the hand can bear, at the place 
where it bubbles up, among the rocks at the principal fountain. 
I returned by the gardens of the Missionary, and a few of the 
people, who at the favourable season of the year cultivate small 
patches of ground, which present a pleasing object to the view, 
surrounded as it is by the bare rocks and sandy plain. In the 
evening I held a meeting with the head men of the tribe, to talk 
over various matters relating to their temporal circumstances, 
and with a view to incite them to build substantial cottages in 
the place of their miserable mat huts. I promised to each 
person who should so build within two years a present of a 
small chest of tea, trusting to my friends in England to assist 
me in this effort to promote the temporal improvement and 
real civilization of this interesting but long degraded tribe of 
natives. 

My second Sabbath at Nisbett Bath was spent in the same 
manner as the first, the people from a distance having deter- 
mined to remain on the station till our departure, although they 
keenly felt the want of food. In the morning I preached by 
interpreter, after which the sacrament of the Lord's Supper 
was administered. In the afternoon Mr. Morris addressed the 
people in Dutch, one of the natives interpreting into Namaqua ; 
and in the evening I preached again in English. 

On Monday morning, the 1st of August, we had singing and 
prayer in the open air, in front of the Mission-House, where the 
people were assembled together to witness our departure ; and 
about noon Mr. Morris and I took an affectionate leave of the 
Mission family, and of the dear people among whom they 
laboured. Mrs. Tindall kindly replenished our store-chest, 
and, having been furnished with four oxen to relieve our 
horses in passing over the sandv roads of the first stage, we once 
more turned our faces homewards, being accompanied a few 
miles by the Missionaries and a number of the people. I left 
the stations in Great Namaqualand with my mind deeply- 






CHAP. VI. — SECOND JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 543 

impressed with their importance to this part of Southern Africa, 
and with the adaptation of the Missionaries to their peculiar 
sphere of labour ; Mr. H. Tindall having acquired a knowledge 
of the difficult Xamaqua language to an extent never before 
realized, I believe, by an European ; and Mr. J. Tindall, his 
honoured father, having had extensive experience in Mission 
work among the natives. 

On reaching Luries Fontein we returned the oxen to the 
station and inspanned our horses ; and, having been supplied 
with a small sheep from the Mission flock which was grazing 
here, according to the instructions of Mr. Tindall to the 
shepherd, we pushed forward through the whole night in con- 
sequence of the scarcity of water. *We halted for a short time 
on Tuesday afternoon to slaughter our sheep, and to cook some 
food for immediate use, which we much required. Whilst we 
were thus engaged, there came crawling out from the rocks a 
poor Bush-woman, the most miserable specimen of humanity 
that I ever beheld. She was of dwarfish stature, with arms and 
legs attenuated, and shrivelled in the extreme. She approached 
our camp fire in a fearful timid manner, and, on seeing a few 
pieces of offal lying about where the sheep had been killed, she 
picked them up and threw them on the embers of the fire ; but 
before they could have been well warmed she picked them up 
again, and ate them as sweet morsels. On seeing the state of 
starvation to which this poor creature was reduced, we gave 
her some bread and meat, which she devoured with a most 
voracious appetite. She then, by signs, begged for the skin of 
the slaughtered animal, which was hanging on a bush ; and on 
its being given to her, she wrapped it round her almost naked 
person, and walked off as well satisfied and as proud as if she 
had been robed in the most splendid mantle. How true is the 
proverb which says, " One half the world scarcely knows how 
the other half lives!" and how thankful ought we to be even 
for the temporal blessings which the Gospel confers ! 

We proceeded on our journey with as little delay as possible, 
and in the evening reached the Orange River, which we crossed 
without difficulty, only breaking two spokes in one of our cart 
wheels in attempting to lock them, while going down the steep 



544 PAKT III. — THE CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. 

bank into the stream. After repairing the damage we encamped 
for the night on the southern side of the river. 

After two days of hard travelling through the Bushman Flats, 
by way of Quick Fontein and Eeed Fontein, during most of 
which I rode the spare horse to lighten the cart, we came to 
Norap, an out-station belonging to the Khamiesberg Circuit, 
on the afternoon of Friday, the 5th. Here we had appointed to 
meet Mr. Bailie, and a few of the head men. A number of the 
school children were assembled on the top of a hill ; and, as 
soon as we came in sight, they communicated the intelligence 
to the rest, and Mr. Bailie, and a number of the people, soon 
came out to meet us. 

We found a large concourse of natives assembled together, 
many of whom had come from a considerable distance, and 
were anxiously awaiting our arrival. The waggons and tents 
were tastefully arranged around the old temporary chapel; and, 
although I was somewhat fatigued, having ridden on horseback 
about fifty miles a day for the last three days, there was a con- 
gregation, and I must preach. So I commenced immediately, 
and we had a blessed season. I afterwards examined the school 
children, and was well pleased with their progress in learning. 
We assembled again in the evening, when Mr. Bailie and Mr. 
Morris also took part in the service. The native Teacher, F. 
Kardennal, and good old Eva, his mother-in-law, did every- 
thing in their power to make us comfortable during our stay. 
We slept in a native mat hut in preference to our cart, for we 
longed for an opportunity to stretch our weary limbs on the 
ground. During the night the pattering rain fell heavily on 
the spherical roof of our frail shelter ; but very little found its 
way through, although constructed only of rushes ; and we 
enjoyed a good night's rest. 

On Saturday morning we fixed the sight of the proposed new 
chapel and other buildings to be erected, and, after singing and 
prayer, attended to some other matters of business pertaining to 
the temporal welfare of the natives located in the neighbourhood 
of this interesting out-station, and afterwards sang a hymn, and 
commended each other to God in prayer. We then took leave 
of the people, and set out for Khamiesberg, passing over a 



CHAP. VI. — SECOND JOURNEY TO THE 1NTERIOE. 545 

new road cut through the mountains, which displayed a piece 
of engineering that reflected great credit upon the people, and 
upon the Missionary under whose direction it had been recently 
accomplished. It is appropriately called Bailie's Pass, in honour 
of the enterprising Missionary who is so earnestly engaged in 
seeking to promote the temporal and spiritual interest of this 
people. In the evening we arrived at the Lily Fountain station, 
on the top of Khamiesberg, in the midst of a snow-storm, which 
made the latter part of our journey both difficult and unpleasant. 
In ascending the mountain our horses were much fatigued, and 
one of them fell down and perished in the snow. We pressed 
on, and waded through it as best we could, and through the 
kind providence of God we reached the station in safety. 

We held the usual religious services on the Sabbath ; but, 
most of the people having removed to the Underveld for the 
winter months, the attendance was small. After inspecting the 
beautiful new chapel now in course of erection ; and attending to 
other matters of business, on Monday morning we descended the 
mountain to Bethel's Klip, where we found a different climate to 
that which we had left behind. We spent a pleasant evening 
in company with Mr. Dixon and other friends who had come 
from a distance to meet us. 

Having accomplished the object of my visit to these distant 
and interesting stations, on Wednesday, the 10th, we took an 
affectionate leave of Mr. and Mrs. Bailie and family, and the few 
people who were present, and set out for the Cape. We were 
now blessed with favourable weather; and having travelled day 
after day for nearly two weeks in the manner already described, 
I reached home in peace and safety on Saturday evening, the 
20th of August, truly thankful to God for His preserving good- 
ness extended not only to me in my travels, but also to my dear 
wife during my absence. In this journey I travelled about 
fourteen hundred miles, and visited all our stations in Little and 
Great Kamaqualand, in seven weeks, — a rate of travelling seldom 
surpassed in this country. I cannot close this chapter without 
recording my obligation and gratitude to my friend, Mr. James 
Morris, who at considerable inconvenience to himself accom- 
panied me on this occasion, and who was unwearied in his efforts 

N N 



546 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

to promote my personal comfort, and to facilitate the object 
which I had in view. The happy hours which we spent together 
in Christian fellowship, prayer, and praise, whilst travelling the 
wilds of Africa, far from the abodes of civilization, left an im- 
pression upon my own mind never to be effaced, and on which I 
have often reflected since with pleasure. 



CHAPTER VII. 

THIRD JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR 

Voyage up the South-west Coast — Hondeklip Bay — Journey ou Horseback 
— English Trader — Bethel — Life in the "Wilderness — Lily Fountain — 
Visit to Out-Stations — Silver Fontein — Springbok Fontein — Copper 
Mines — Laying Foundation Stone of new Chapel at Norap — Return to 
Khamiesberg — Accident to "Waggons — Opening of new Chapel at Lily 
Fountain — Return to the Cape — Importance of interior Stations — Little 
Namaqualand — Great Naniaqualand — Fruits of Missionary Labour — 
"(Native Missionary Meeting — The dying Namaqua. 

About two years after my first journey to Namaqualand, 
several circumstances seemed to render it necessary for me once 
more to visit some of our stations in that remote part of 
Southern Africa. The Rev. Messrs. Eidgill and Thomas had 
just received appointments to interior stations for the first time, 
and had left the Cape with their families ; the new chapel at 
Lily Fountain was nearly finished, and ready to be dedicated, 
and Mr. Bailie, the resident Missionary, was very urgent in his 
request that I should try to go and take a part in the opening 
services. Although my ministerial and official duties at home 
were numerous and pressing, and rendered it difficult for me to 
be absent, even for a short time, I felt a strong desire, if pos-t 
sible, to comply with the wishes of my brethren and the people 
in the interior. 

Whilst I was anxiously considering what course I ought to 



CHAP. VI] . — THIRD JOUBNE1 TO THE INTERIOR. 54-7 

pursue as a matter of duty, I heard of an opportunity of pro- 
ceeding up the South-western coast of Africa by water, a vessel 
being about to sail for Hondeklip Bay, to take in a cargo of 
copper ore. As this mode of conveyance afforded a prospect of 
reaching Namaqualand much more speedily than by the slow 
process of travelling by land, I resolved at once to avail myself 
of it; and on the afternoon of Saturday, the 22nd of October, 
1355, I went on board the barque "Dido," accompanied by 
Charles PiDans, Esq., who was proceeding to the interior on 
business. The vessel worked out of Table Bay in the course of 
the evening, and having a strong south-east wind directly in 
our favour, by the good providence of God we reached our 
destined port on Monday afternoon, making a passage which 
was perhaps never surpassed for speed by any sailing vessel. 
In order to cross the bar, and enter the little bay, the navigation 
of which is somewhat intricate, owing to a dangerous reef, we 
were obliged to leave the "Dido " at anchor outside, and go on 
board the cutter " Kosebucl," which conveyed us in safety into 
the harbour, although she was completely wrecked in attempting 
to perform a similar service to another party two days after- 
wards. I was thus called upon once more to acknowledge 
with heartfelt gratitude the ever watchful care of my heavenly 
Father. 

Having obtained lodgings for the night at the house of the 
storekeeper, at an early hour the following morning we pro- 
cured horses, and a little Hottentot boy as a guide, and set out 
for Bethel's Klip, an out-station of our Khamiesberg missionary 
institution, and distant from Hondiklip Bay about forty-five 
miles. The day w T as extremely hot, and, having to ride hard 
over a heavy sandy road, encumbered with some luggage and. 
our blankets strapped behind us, it was very fatiguing both for 
man and beast. We found it necessary to " off-saddle " and 
"knee-halter" more frequently than usual during the day, 
although the w r ater was very indifferent at the respective places 
generally used for out spanning. At one of the places where we 
halted for an hour or two to graze our horses, I observed a tra- 
veller's w T aggon, and, on approaching it for the purpose of an 
interchange of friendly greetings according to the etiquette of 

2 N 2 



54 B PAKI III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

the African desert, I was surprised to receive a hearty welcome 
pronounced in my own native tongue. The owner of the wa - 
proved to be an English settler from O iding 

expedition, aa ly _'.: .1 to meet with a : 

countryman in the wilderness. In the course of a 
sation, in which I contrived to put in a word for my Master, the 
English trader acknowledged, with evii 
had once known the Lord, and been a it: the Wesleyan 

Society in Birmingham ; but that foi many ; sf he had 

an unhappy wanderer from the paths _V.tr- 

onsness. I thought of Philip meeting with the VV much in the 
wilderness of Judea. and gladly would I have acred the ^ 
the evangelist to my countryman ; but. alas ! I found him n 
the mood of an inquirer after truth. He invited m to his 

waggon, it is true, but it was not to explain to him the 
of the sacred book, but to taste at certain fiery fluids v 
were suspended around him in bottles as samples, and : ; which 
he appeared to be the vendor. He pronounced his commc Vities 
"very good," and repeatedly urged me to try them. This 
honour I respectfully . and, not tding the vile 

character of the water and the heat cf the climate. I hesitated 
not to hoist my colours, and declare myself a total abst inex 
from all intoxicating liquor. Having faithfully exhorted the 
trader to return with penitence and prayer to his offended 
Father, we pursued cur journey towards Bethel, where we 
arrived just as the last rays of tie setting sun we:: gilding the 
tops of the surrounding mountains. 

Bethel is situated on the lowlands of the institution, and 
affords a convenient place o: residence for the Missionary 
the people, with their herds and flocks, during four months of 
the year, when the cold of winter prevents their remaining at 
the principal station on the top cf the mountain, as already 
explained. This was the pericd of the general '''trek.'' or 
removal homeward ; and Mr. Bailie and his family, not knowing 
of my coining by this route, had lei: the ph :e about two hours 
before we arrived. Apprehending that this might be the case, 
we had brought our blankets with us. strapped to our saddles, 
and as we found the school-room open, the natives prepared 



CHAP. YII. — THIRD JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 549 

us a cup of coffee, and we were soon made quite comfortable. 
In the mean time a messenger was dispatched on horseback to 
inform Mr. Bailie of our arrival. My esteemed brother soon 
returned to welcome me to his station. We conversed on various 
subjects connected with the interests of the Mission till a late hour; 
and after a short rest we rode forward early the next morning to 
the waggons at the Missionary's encampment, at a place called 
"Lang Klip," where we found Mrs. Eailie and family well, 
and with breakfast prepared in anticipation of our coming. 

Having thus joined Mr. Bailie and his family with their 
waggon on their way to Lily Fountain, I felt quite at home, 
and much enjoyed the gipsy kind of life which is necessarily 
connected with these periodical migrations. The little chil- 
dren and the domestic animals of the establishment seemed 
to understand all about it ; and I observed a hen with a 
brood of chickens quite enjoying their liberty on being let 
out from their cage for an hour or two at the out spanning, 
taking good care, however, not to wander far from the waggons, 
to expose themselves to the serpents or birds of prey. Luring 
the following two days we continued ascending the mountain 
at an easy rate of travelling, the ladies and children lodging 
in the waggons at night, and the gentlemen and servants 
sleeping on the ground. We held religious services with the 
people morning and evening, at our encampments, and fre- 
quently felt it good to wait upon the Lord ; and often, when 
watching the little twinkling stars, or the pale moon walking 
in brightness, as I lay upon my sandy couch, have I thought 
of absent friends, and home, and of the prayers offered up to 
God by His people for the poor Missionary in the wilderness. 

We reached the Lily Fountain station on the top of Xha- 
miesberg, on the evening of Thursday, the 25th; and after 
resting for a day or two, and attending to the services of the 
Sabbath, which were truly refreshing, the resident Missionary 
preaching in the morning, and I in the evening, Mr. Bailie and 
I set out on Monday morning on a journey of four days, to 
visit the out-stations and the copper mines. We travelled on 
this occasion on horseback, accompanied by B. S. Links, the 
native teacher, with a pack-horse to carry our blankets, pro- 



550 PAKT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

visions, and cooking utensils. During the first day we travelled 
through rugged mountain scenery, where the baboons were 
gambolling among the rocks, and where no signs of cultivation 
appeared. Occasionally we halted for an hour or two, to allow 
our horses time to graze, when we lighted a fire and boiled our 
never-failing camp kettle, and, after taking refreshment, read the 
Scriptures, and united in prayer and praise. In the evening we 
came to an experimental copper mine of the " South African 
Mining Company," on the missionary institution land near 
Norap, which Mr. Pillans, my travelling companion from the 
Cape, had come to inspect. The night was bleak and cold: and 
the superintendent of the works having kindly offered us the 
best shelter he had, we gladly availed ourselves of it, in prefer- 
ence to lodging in the open air, and slept on the clay floor of 
Iris humble native hut, wrapped in the skin blankets we had taken 
with us on the back of the pack-horse. 

On Tuesday morning we continued our journey through the 
Bushman Plats, and about noon we came to a farm called 
Silver Fontein, where we rested for a while, and obtained a 
supply of bread, milk, and oranges. This place is associated 
in my mind with some very melancholy reflections. It is the 
place where the murderer of the three missionary martyrs of 
Xamaqualand, Threlfall, Links, and Jagger, was executed, as 
stated in a former chapter. I looked upon the grave of the 
murderer with feelings of painful interest, and listened to the 
statements of the natives respecting that sad event with deep 
emotion. Here also is the grave of Mrs. Sass, the pious wife 
of a devoted Missionary of the London Society, who sank be- 
neath her weight of sickness and sorrow, and found a resting- 
place in this wilderness, ere she had reached the scene of her 
intended labours. It was good that it was in the heart of this 
dear saint of God to work for Him ; but He saw lit to call 
her thus early to a better country. How mysterious are the 
ways of Divine Providence ! But what we know not now, we 
shall know hereafter. 

In the afternoon we called at Mr. Kennedy's farm, and had 
a view oi the Enterprise Company's experimental copper mines, 
whieh appeared to us no more promising than those we had 



CHAP. VII. — THIED JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 551 

inspected at Norap. Ill the evening we reached Springbok 
Fontein, where we were kindly provided with lodgings for the 
night. We found the copper mines at this place, belonging to 
the company of Philip and King, producing a large quantity of 
excellent ore, and yielding an ample return for the labour be- 
stowed upon them, as they have continued to do for many years. 
We received the kindest attention and hospitality from Mr. 
Steel, the superintendent of the mines, as well as from J. C. 
Rivers, Esq., Acting Civil Commissioner and Resident Magis- 
trate. 

Having finished our business at Springbok, on Wednesday 
morning we set out on our homeward journey, travelling byway 
of Mr. Kennedy's farm and Silver Fontein, by which route we 
reached Norap in six hours' hard riding. On arriving at the 
jplaced just named, we found that the mat hut which we had 
formerly occupied was taken down ; but we contrived to erect a 
temporary shelter, under which we slept with tolerable comfort. 

On Thursday, the 1st of November, a large number of people 
came together to attend the religious services connected with 
laying the foundation stone of our new chapel at Xorap. Not 
deeming it advisable to enter the old shed formerly used as a 
.place of worship, and in which I had preached when I was here 
before, in consequence of its being now infested with snakes 
and other venomous reptiles, we assembled outside in the open 
air. Here we sang a hymn, offered prayer to God for His 
blessing on the undertaking, explained the object of our meet- 
ing, and then walked in procession to the site of the new 
chapel and Mission premises, on a gentle elevation in the 
centre of a pleasant valley. I then read a portion of Scripture 
in Dutch, addressed a few words to the people, and at Mr. 
Bailie's request laid the foundation stone in the name of the ever 
blessed Trinity. The service was concluded by fervent prayer 
and earnest exhortation on the subject of personal religion, and 
on the best means to be adopted for the completion of the new 
chapel, in which Mr. Bailie and Kardanal, the native teacher, 
took a part. Thus was this interesting ceremony performed in 
true orthodox form ; only we had no silver trowel with appro- 
priate inscription to commemorate the eveut, as in England, 



552 PART HI. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

but were obliged to use a wooden one made that morning by 
one of the natives, and which would no doubt have been ad- 
mired as a curiosity of art, had it been preserved for exhibition 
in a missionary museum. In the afternoon we set out for 
Khamiesberg, where we arrived in the evening, after a smart 
ride of twenty-five miles. 

On returning to Lily Fountain, we were glad to hear of the 
approach of our brethren, the Eev. Messrs. Eidgill and Thomas, 
who had left Cape Town with their families, in ox- waggons, 
two weeks before I started, on their way to their respective sta- 
tions in Great Namaqualand. On Saturday evening, Mr. Eid- 
gill arrived at the institution, but Mr. Thomas was detained at 
the foot of the mountain by the breaking of an axle of one of 
his waggons. Having dispatched a number of men with the 
necessary assistance to repair the damage, and to bring Mr. 
Thomas and his family up the mountain with as little delay as 
possible, we prepared for the sacred services of the Sabbath. 
In the morning, Mr. EidgiU preached an excellent sermon in 
Dutch ; and we were expecting the blessing of God on the 
remaining services of the day, when a circumstance occurred 
which materially interfered with our arrangements. Immedi- 
ately after we had come from the chapel, a messenger arrived to 
inform us that Mr. Thomas's other waggon had been upset on 
the previous evening, coming down a steep hill, and was com- 
pletely broken to pieces. 

Mr. Bailie and I immediately put on our travelling dresses, 
mounted our horses, and rode off to the scene of this sad dis- 
aster, leaving instructions for a number of men to follow after 
us with a waggon and tools, Sec, as soon as possible. After 
riding about fourteen miles, we came to the place where the 
accident had occurred ; and the scene which presented itself to 
our view was calculated to move the sympathies of any one who 
has ever thought of the poor Missionary, in " perils in the 
wilderness." The body of the waggon was upset and sepa- 
rated from the wheels, and the road for a considerable distance 
was strewed with boxes and packages of various kinds, whilst 
the Missionary and his family were sitting in sadness and sor- 
row under a bush, where they had taken shelter for the night, 



CHAP. VII. THIRD JOUKNET TO THE INTEEIOK. 553 

when their travelling waggon was demolished. But whilst we 
looked with sincere regret upon the wreck which was spread 
before us, we felt that it was matter of gratitude that our 
esteemed brother and his family were mercifully preserved from 
injury, being all out of the waggon at the time of the accident. 

We had now to consider the best means to be adopted for 
temporary repairing the damage, so as to get every thing up to 
the station with as little delay as possible. On examining 
more minutely into the state of things, we found that the most 
important parts of the waggon were not so much injured as wo 
at first apprehended. Having got the different portions of the 
vehicle together, and found out what was required, we sent 
men into the neighbouring ravine to cut the necessary pieces of 
wood, and, after about four hours' hard labour, we -had the wag- 
gon repaired, re-loaded, and everything ready for moving forward. 
Eut as the shades of evening had now gathered around us, it 
was considered best to wait till the morning before we began to 
ascend the mountain. We therefore lighted our camp tire, and 
after partaking of a little food, we collected the people together, 
and held an interesting religious service, partly in Dutch and 
partly in English, carefully explaining under what circumstances 
it is lawful in our opinion to work as we had been doing on 
the Sabbath day. On the following morning we moved for- 
ward at an early hour, and about noon the whole party reached 
Lily Fountain in safety. 

In the afternoon I inspected the Mission school. Nearly two 
hundred scholars were present; and, after they had gone 
through their various exercises satisfactorily, I distributed 
among them a number of little presents, chiefly useful articles 
of wearing apparel, with which I had been furnished by my 
kind friends in Cape Town and in England. Not anticipating 
such a large gathering of children and young people, I was 
sorry to find that I was not supplied with a sufficient number 
of articles to enable me to give one to each scholar. When I 
had distributed all the presents I had on this principle, there 
remained seventeen little Namaqua children for whom I had 
nothing; and such were their expressions of disappointment 
and distress, that I would have given twice their value for the- 



554 PATtT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

required number of articles ; but they were not to be had for 
love or money in the interior of Africa. All that I could do 
under the circumstances, was to write down the names of the 
seventeen disappointed children, and to promise to send them 
each a present when I returned to the Cape, — a promise wdiich 
I ultimately redeemed to the satisfaction of all concerned. 

Tuesday, the 6th, was the day appointed for the opening of 
the new chapel ; and it was a day long to be remembered both 
by Ministers and people. At an early hour, the beautiful sanc- 
tuary was rilled with people, chiefly the native inhabitants of 
the institution, with a few neighbouring farmers and visitors 
from a distance. At the request of my brethen, I commenced 
the morning service by giving out the beautiful Dutch hymn 
beginning, — 

" Halelujah ! lofzij den Heer ! 
Aanbidt den Vader, geeft Hem eer, 

Den Schepper aller ditigen ! 
Den roem van zijn barmhartigheid, 
Zyn* ivijsheid, magt, en majesteit, 
Moet al het schepsel zingen ; " 

and after I had read an appropriate portion of Scripture in the 
same language, the Eev. J. A. Bailie offered the dedication 
prayer, and the Eev. E. Eidgill preached a most impressive ser- 
mon. In the evening the Eev. F. Weich preached, and the 
Eev. J. Thomas and Mr. J. Mackay took part in the service. 
Although money is but little known in the interior of South 
Africa, the people presented liberal and willing offerings on the 
joyous occasion ; the collection at the close of the morning ser- 
vice amounting to £16. 4s. In the afternoon, a tea-meeting was 
held in the school-room, when several aged converted Nama- 
quas delivered interesting addresses, in which they adverted, in 
the most affecting manner, to the great change, both temporal 
and spiritual, which had taken place in their circumstances 
since the Missionaries first came among them. The new r chapel 
is in the Gothic style of architecture, and reflects great credit 
upon the native builders, and upon the Eev. J. A. Bailie, the 
zealous Missionary under whose superintendence it was erected. 
It is a solid stone structure, with massive buttresses outside, 



CHAP. VII. — THIRD JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 555 

-and neatly finished inside with plank floor ceiling and pews 
complete. It is calculated to seat about six hundred persons, 
a?id has been erected at an expense of about £3,000, the whole 
of which was contributed by the natives themselves, with the 
exception of about £20 given by a few friends at the Cape for 
the purchase of a pulpit ; so that there is no remaining debt 
upon the premises. It is believed that no financial effort has 
been made on any station by the Hottentots of South Africa 
to surpass this ; and yet it may be regarded as a specimen of 
what we may hope to see on a more extensive scale in many 
other parts of this interesting country, as the fruits of a faithful 
Gospel ministry. 

On Wednesday evening I met the Missionary and the people 
of the station by appointment in the new chape], for the pur- 
pose of speaking with them on various matters pertaining to their 
temporal and spiritual welfare, and to propose to them some 
new measures by means of which it was thought they might 
Tender more systematic and substantial aid towards the support 
of the work of God after the completion of their new sanctuary. 
The people appeared to enter into our views in the best possible 
spirit ; and I was encouraged to hope that this our oldest Mis- 
sion in South Africa, by its continued prosperity and increased 
efforts towards self-support, would meet the anticipations of the 
friends who had so long taken an interest in its welfare. I saw 
much to gratify me in connexion with the Lily Fountain station 
during my visit, as I had done on a former occasion, when pass- 
ing through the country ; and I observed with gratitude the 
marked improvement which had taken place in every department 
of the work in the interim. 

When preparing for my return to Cape Town, my attention 
was attracted by the ringing of the institution bell, to call 
together the head men or native council, whom I soon observed 
seated on a grassy slope above the Mission-House. On inquiring 
as to the object of their meeting, I was pleasingly surprised to 
learn that they were making arrangements for my journey home, 
so that no expense might devolve on the Society. They soon 
placed a beautiful span of oxen at my disposal, belonging to 
various parties, which were kindly lent for the occasion, free of 



556 PART III. — THE CAPE OE GOOD HOPE. 

cost. These were yoked to a light waggon belonging to the 
station; and having commended the people to God in prayer, 
and fairly tired my right arm with shaking hands with sn 
multitude of natives, I took an affectionate leave of them, as 
well as of Mr. Bailie and his amiable wife and family, from 
whom I had received much kindness during my sojourn ou their 
interesting station. 

I was accompanied on my journey homeward by Mr. John 
Mackay, with whom I had much pleasant Christian intercourse 
both in conversation and in worship, as we travelled along. We 
had also with us two Hottentot attendants, to assist as at our 
encampments. The day was somewhat advanced before we 
began to descend the mountain ; and. wishing to redeem the time, 
we continued travelling on some time after the shades of evening- 
had closed around us, our men assuring us that they knew the 
road quite well. We were proceeding at a rapid rate down a 
gentle declivity, when we met with one of those mishaps which 
are not by any means uncommon in the wilds of Africa. The 
late rains and mountain torrents had completely washed away 
the lower side of the road, and left a deep ravine, which we could 
not see in the darkness of the night. On coming to this the 
waggon was completely upset, and we were thrown out with con- 
siderable violence. Providentially we were neither of us much 
hurt, and we set to work immediately to try to put things right. 
On lighting the lantern we found that no serious breakage had I 
place : but one wheel of the waggon was off, and the linen-pin 
was lost. This was our greatest difficulty, as we had nothing 
by us with which we could replace it. We commenced a dili- 
gent search along the road, and about a hundred yards up the 
hill we found it, to our great joy. Having by our united strength 
put on the wheel, and replace:! the body of the waggon, we 
drew it out of its perilous position, and outspanned for the night. 

After this we proceeded without any further accident, still 
travelling a good deal by night when the moonlight improved, 
as we wished to make haste, as well as to avoid the heat of the 
day. Having travelled assiduously in this way for two weeks, 
I reached home in peace and safety on Thursday evening, the 
22nd of November, where I found my dear wire in the enjoy- 



CHAP. VII. — THIRD JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 557 

merit of tolerable health and comfort; and we had once more 
occasion to praise the Lord for His preserving goodness mani- 
fested towards us, whilst engaged in the discharge of our respec- 
tive duties. 

Before we take our leave of the interesting interior stations 
which have just passed under review, it seems desirable to ad- 
vert to a few particulars concerning them, which could not be 
-conveniently brought out in the brief narrative of my respective 
visits, that the reader may have a complete view of the import- 
ance and peculiar character of our work in those distant regions. 

Little Namaqualaxd. The Lily Fountain institution on 
Khamiesberg, in Little Namaqualand, about four hundred miles 
from Cape Town, is the oldest station of the Wesley an Mission- 
ary Society in South Africa. It was commenced about half a 
century ago, as already stated, by the Eev. Barnabas Shaw; 
and notwithstanding many difficulties, the people have advanced 
to a pleasing state of civilization and temporal prosperity, as 
well as of religious knowledge and Christian experience. The 
station is beautifully situate in a gentle hollow, near the summit 
of a high mountain. The number of inhabitants connected with 
the institution amounts to about one thousand, two hundred of 
whom are consistent church members, with about the same 
number of scholars attending the Mission school. These occupy 
lands set apart for their use as a distinct Christian community, 
and live as one large family under the pastoral care of the 
Missionary, to whom they look up as to their father and friend. 
All their temporal affairs are governed by rules and regulations 
which they themselves have adopted, under the judicious guid- 
ance of their Missionaries. On the 1st of January, every year, 
the people elect or re-elect six councillors and two overseers. 
These form a board, of which the resident Missionary is chair- 
man; and at their monthly meetings they arrange every thing 
connected with public works, ploughing, sowing, reaping, and 
watching the flocks and herds of the community. They also 
decide when the people shall remove from their mountain home 
to the low lands, where they are obliged to reside during the 
winter months. Every matter of dispute which may arise among 
the people, as the trespass of cattle on each other's garden 



55S PAST III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

grounds, fee., is required to be brought before the council board 

for settlement ; and it is a pleasing fact that, although they have 
the right of appealing to the resident Magistrate at Springbok 
Fontein, the station being within the colonial boundary, such a 
case scarcely ever occurs, the people preferring to be governed 
by their own rules and regulations. 

Besides the beautiful new chapel already mentioned, and a 
commodious residence for the Missionary with a school-house, 
workshops, and a few cottages belonging to the head people, 
there are not many stone buildings on the stations, the people 
generally preferring to live in the native mat huts, which are 
easily removed when they have to change the place of their resi- 
dence. This has often been matter of regret to the Missionaries, 
who would like to see the natives advanced to a still higher 
state of civilization ; but there are local circumstances which 
have hitherto prevented the erection of a larger number of per- 
manent cottages. The natives make good farmers ; and, accord- 
ing to the last returns, which I received before leaving the Cape, 
there were on the institution about seven hundred acres of 
land under cultivation, and the people possessed one hundred 
ploughs, thirty waggons, two thousand five hundred homed 
cattle, four hundred horses, and seven thousand sheep and goats. 

The out-station at Bethel, about thirty miles from Lily 
Fountain, in the low lands, where the Missionary and his people 
spend the winter months, has already been described ; and a 
placed called Kaauwgoed Yiakte, about twenty miles in another 
direction, is also visited at stated periods. The most important 
out-post connected with Khamiesberg is Booi Fontein, or 
Noiap, which has also been repeatedly mentioned in this nar- 
rative. When the new chapel was erected at this place, and 
certain lands secured for the people in the neighbourhood, a 
hope was entertained that it would become not only the per- 
manent place of residence for a Missionary, but the head of a 
missionary institution like Lily Fountain, on a somewhat 
smaller scale. Then there would have been two Missionaries 
and their families in Little Xamaqualand, within twenty-five 
miles of each other, who would have been mutual helps for 
ministerial interchange, and for comfort in times of afiliction. 



CHAP. VII. — THIRD JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 559 

This view of carrying on the work in these remote regions was 
fully sanctioned, at one time, by the Missionary Committee ; 
but before it could be fully and permanently adopted, some 
untoward circumstances, with the want of an ample supply of 
men and means for the District, prevented its accomplishment, 
and this extensive country is still left to one Missionary. 

For many years the boundaries of the Lily Fountain lands 
were but indifferently defined, and the surrounding Boers were 
constantly encroaching, and taking from the natives their best 
fountains and corn lands. A remedy for this evil had often 
been sought, but never obtained ; and the matter had assumed 
such a serious aspect, threatening the very existence of our 
station, that I resolved to make one more strenuous effort. I 
memoralized the Government, got the disputed boundary line 
surveyed at considerable expense, which the people willingly 
defrayed ; and finally, through the kindness of Lieutenant Gover- 
nor Darling and Charles Bell, Esq., the Surveyor General, a 
diagram, and the necessary documents securing the lands per- 
manently to the use of the natives, were executed, and received 
the official signature of Sir George Cathcart, the Governor 
General, just before he left the colony, and not long before he 
fell in battle in the Crimean war. Thus was an important 
question settled at last in favour of the natives, and the way 
prepared, it is hoped, for still greater progress in the temporal 
and spiritual improvement of an interesting people. 

Great Namaqualand. Our principal station in Great Na- 
maqualand is at Nisbett Bath, about six hundred miles from 
Cape Town, as already noticed. The work is prosecuted here, 
among the tribe called Bundle Zwarts, under many difficulties, 
arising from the sterile character of the country and the con- 
sequent wandering habits of the people. The only cultivation 
here is confined to a few small garden plots near the warm bath, 
the produce of which is very scanty, precarious, and uncertain. 
The Missionary has to send his waggons once or twice a year 
to Khamiesberg, to procure corn to make bread for his family. 
In times of drought the people become scattered to a distance 
of thirty, forty, or a hundred miles, in search of pasture for their 
flocks and herds. Before they take their departure, the Mis- 



560 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

sionary and the native council make the best arrangement they 
can to meet the spiritual wants of the people, by sending a 
native teacher with each company. These wandering hordes 
may often be seen in the wilderness at their encampments with 
all the appliances necessary for the service of the sanctuary and 
the exercises of the school. The books are brought out, the 
children ply their lessons, the Scriptures are read, the word of 
exhortation given, the hymn of praise is sung, and the desert 
wilds frequently resound with the songs of Zion. When the 
people continue for several months at their respective out-posts, 
and the Missionary and his family are left almost alone at the 
Eath, he generally arranges to visit them at their encampments, 
for the purpose of preaching, administering the sacraments, and 
renewing the quarterly tickets, kc. The man of God has now 
to itinerate "on horseback, or with his waggon, if his wife accom- 
pany him, a circuit of two hundred miles in extent ; and no one 
acquainted with the trials and temptations of the Christian life 
will be surprised to hear that, on the occasion of these periodical 
visits of the Missionary, he is frequently called upon to admi- 
nister church discipline. Perhaps the young people have been 
indulging in dancing, of which they are very fond ; or other 
serious faults have been committed, which require admonition, 
reproof, or expulsion : hence the liability to fluctuation in our 
statistical returns from these interior stations. We have known 
instances, however, where large hunting parties have been absent 
from the station for several months, and during their journeys 
of hundreds of miles they have kept up their worship, their 
schools, their prayer-meetings, and class-meetings, with such 
good effect, that on their return they have reported an increase 
of church members, having experienced blessed revivals of 
religion during their wanderings. 

Hoole's Fountain, about seventy-five miles from Nisbett Bath, 
is the station next in importance in Great Namaqualand. In- 
deed, with respect to scenery and some local advantages, it is a 
place superior to the Bath. It is the principal home of a small 
tribe of Africans, with whom are associated a number of half- 
castes, vulgarly called " Bastards," from the other side of the 
Orange River. On the removal of the Chief Jonker, with a 



CHAP. VII. — THIRD JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 561 

immber of his people, several years ago, to the borders of 
Damaraland, the field of missionary labour in this locality be- 
came somewhat circumscribed. We have notwithstanding had 
a good work going on at different periods among these people, 
some of whom are noted for their piety, intelligence, and Chris- 
tian consistency. 

When the erection of a substantial and commodious residence 
for a Missionary at Hoole's Fountain was commenced some 
time ago, it was hoped that this place would become the head 
of an important Circuit, the Minister of which would be 
favoured with Christian intercourse and occasional ministe- 
rial interchanges with his brother at the Eath, and that thus 
Great Namaqualand would have two Missionaries for mutual 
help and encouragement, on the same plan as that already 
indicated for Little Namaqualand. Had this principle of con- 
solidation been adopted and carried out on this and some 
other stations, which have been unfortunately crippled for want 
of support, there is no doubt but many evils would have 
been avoided, and the fruit would have appeared in time to 
come. 

For several years past the work in Namaqualand has not 
been so prosperous as formerly. The country has not only 
been afflicted with successive seasons of drought, which have 
kept the people in a scattered state, where they are exposed 
to many temptations, but the "lung sickness," or cattle 
plague, has been very prevalent. And that w T hich made the 
case worse was, the first appearance of the fatal malady 
simultaneously with the return of the Missionary from the Cape 
Colony, conveying the idea, right or wrong, that he had 
brought it into the country with his draught oxen. This cir- 
cumstance unhappily led to a feeling of estrangement between, 
the people and their Pastor for some time ; but it is to be 
hoped that the cloud which has for so long hovered over these 
interesting stations will be dissipated, and that the sun 
of prosperity will again shine upon them. It has been 
sometimes feared that the repeated and accumulated trials and 
difficulties to which reference has been made, might ultimately 
induce the Wesleyan Missionary Society to withdraw from 

o o 



562 PABT III. THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

Great Namaqualand, as the London Missionary Society did 
several years ago. If this should ever be the case, it will be a 
dark day for that country. Let us rather cherish the hope that 
the frieuds of Missions will come forward to enable the Com- 
mittee to strengthen these important stations, and carry on the 
work on a scale more commensurate with the demands for religious- 
instruction ; and then we shall have reason to anticipate that for 
prosperity and blessing the future will not only be as the past, 
but much more abundant. 

Whatever may be the course of events in future, it is matter 
of gratitude that, notwithstanding the difficulties and privations 
with which they have had to contend, the Missionaries who have 
been successively appointed to Namaqualand have not laboured in 
vain, nor spent their strength for nought. Multitudes of sinners 
have been savingly converted to God, an enlarged spirit of 
Christian liberality has been excited among the people, and 
many have lived and died in the faith and hope of the Gospel. 

In connexion with every station annual Missionary Meetings 
are held, and the people are trained, from the beginning, to do 
their utmost towards the support of the Gospel among them- 
selves, and to help to send the glad tidings of salvation to the 
ends of the earth. On these occasions there are sometimes 
remarkable displays of native eloquence and real enthusiasm in 
the good cause ; and although coined money is almost unknown 
among the people in the interior, they give freely of such things 
as they have. Prom the list of offerings presented at the first 
Missionary Meeting ever held at Nisbett Bath, the following is 
an extract : — 10 oxen, 3 cows, 1 bull, 2 heifers, 4 calves, 147 
sheep, 59 goats, and sundry skins and ostrich feathers, the 
proceeds of which amounted to the sum of =£67 145. 6<£, in 
favour of the Mission fund. 

On the 16th of May, 1855, another interesting Missionary 
Meeting was held at Nisbett Bath, when several of the Native 
Teachers and others took a part in the proceedings, and spoke 
with good effect to the hearts and consciences of their fellow- 
countrymen. The following are a few specimens of the 
observations made on the occasion, as translated by the Be v. H. 
Tindall :— 



CHAP. VII. — THIRD JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 563 

Timotheus Sneeuve, holding in Ins hand a Eeport of the 
<J Cape of Good Hope District Auxiliary Missionary Society," 
said, — " I am ashamed of myself. I stand here with sorrow ; 
for I know that I come very far short of what I once was. I 
was left in Damaraland when the Missionaries were recalled, 
and I became entangled with the things of this world. I fell 
into the snares of the wicked ; and I now feel that my only hope 
is in the mercy of God. I know this, that there is salvation 
for me, for the blood of Christ was shed for me on the cross ; 
and that although I am a sinner, God is willing to accept me 
unto eternal life. This encourages me to begin afresh, and 
leads me to devote myself from this day to the work of God 7 
and to resolve that as long as I live I will be His. This is 
God's work. It is His will that all people should know His 
word. We should be willing to assist in this work. In other 
lands many people assist, and the poor are the great supporters 
of the work of God. I have seen what poor people have done 
in Cape Town. One will catch a fish, another will sell some fire- 
wood, and another will do a piece of work, to get some money 
for sending the Gospel to the heathen. There you may see 
little boys and girls going about with their boxes and books, 
collecting money for the Missionary Society ; and this Eeport 
tells how much each of them gets in a year. Here are their 
names. Let us copy their example ; let us labour to get 
something to give. This is a work of faith and a work of 
love. We know what the Bible says : • The Lord loveth a 
cheerful giver. 5 We must give in love. We know what we 
give for. We give to Christ, and for the support of His ser- 
vants ; to buy their waggons, oxen, and food, and to send out 
more. This is not a tax, it is a free-will offering. We give 
not from compulsion, but from love." 

Cupido Kaffir said, " Nobody drives me to speak. I found 
the desire from the Lord behind a bush. I give every year, 
but lose nothing by it. I give to the work of God. I will 
give with all my heart. I want to give something for 
each of my children, but I fear I shall come short. There is 
that infant that was baptized yesterday. I should like to give 
something for him, but I am afraid I shall not be able. Since 

2 o 2 



564 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

I left the world I have been blessed. I have been living with 
the Missionary. I did not come to live with him through want, 
but because I felt it my duty to assist him. What was I before 
I came here ? I was a poor, ignorant sinner. I never prayed, 
my children were not taught, and I lived without God. Now 
I know God, T pray, and my children are taught. that we 
were all praying people ! " 

Hendrick Windstand. — " I have not much to say, for I have 
not more knowledge than the elders. We have heard how many 
stations, Missionaries, members, teachers, and school children 
there are in our Society. We are also numbered. Our Mis- 
sionaries are included. We are all one. All the stations have 
one God, one worship, one faith, one baptism, and the same 
•experience. We pray, c Lord, appear in every land ; send Thy 
•word to all the people, to all the heathen. 5 For this purpose 
*we give, so I understand it. Missionaries have been at great 
labour and expense to teach us, so that we might know God, 
and pray, and believe, and work righteousness. We cannot 
say anything against giving. We are changed. Our former 
feelings, customs, and works are changed. We have heard, 
received, and believed the word of truth. The Lord has given 
us understanding. The work is of God. He first calls the 
Missionaries, gives them understanding, zeal, and a desire to 
teach sinners. They came and taught us ; but at first we 
turned our backs ; then the Lord drew us, and we became His 
people. We shall have no loss by giving to God. All we 
have is given to us by Him. It is better to give to God than 
to have Him take from us. If we are greedy towards God, He 
will take. We must give with willingness and consistently 
with our prayers." 

Frederick Matros, — " I will say my feelings. I will speak 
according to God's word. I do not speak from learning or 
much understanding, but from what I feel in my heart. We 
have heard the numbers of all the Society, and what these meet- 
ings are for. We used to say, c Why should I give my cattle to 
go away to other people, when we get nothing back for them ?' 
We thought so, because we did not feel the truth. Afterwards 
we felt that Christ died for us ; then we felt that we could 



CHAP. VII. — THIBD JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR. 565 

give our oxen, our sheep, and other things ; and if we give two 
oxen and many sheep, yet we suffer no loss. We get for them 
what we most need and desire, and we want others to get the 
same, — Bushmen, and Kaffirs, and Damaras, and all the people 
of the earth. I often think I should like to go myself, and give 
them the word of God." 

Jan Ortman, — " We have the word of God ; but it is not 
enough for us to have it. If we are praying people, we must 
do as we have been done to. TYe must give as we have received. 
Other people have souls as well as we ; if they do not get the 
word of God, their souls will perish. Our possessions are all 
God's. Do not think we get anything from ourselves. We are 
born naked, and so have nothing from ourselves. We must 
help one another. If we do not give, we shall suffer loss our- 
selves, and be of no use to others. We must not think we have 
nothing to do with others. We are all God's work. Formerly 
our fathers were like wild beasts ; they lived in the bush, wore 
no clothes, had no waggons, nor horses, nor guns, were ignorant, 
and were always fighting with each other. What a change do 
we see now ! God has done it. We bury our dead. Our 
fathers used to leave them for the lions and jackals. If none of 
you ever saw anything of that kind, I have. I saw an old woman 
once left unburied, and the wolves came in the night and ate 
the body ; but we did not think anything about it. I have 
seen much poverty in the Cape ; but none of you are so poor. 
You can all give, but you do not want to give. Shame ! I kuow 
you Bundle Zwaarts ; you hold yourselves as if you were poor; 
but you are not so poor as many of the people of other lands 
who send you the Gospel. And many of you give poor and 
little things. They that might give oxen give calves and sheep, 
and they that might give sheep give bamboos and skins, and 
they that might give skins give nothing at all." 

Job Witboy, — " God's word is all. It is only from God's word 
that I see. I see nothing good, or great, or true in the world. 
All truth and beauty is in the word. I have tasted the good- 
ness of God and the happiness of salvation. I got my experi- 
ence with tears. I first felt for myself, and then I began to feel 
for others. I desired that they might feel what I felt. I prayed 



566 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

for them with tears, and when I could not send anything else I 
sent my prayers. Think of the state of the heathen. They 
are blind, and though they stand at the mouth of the pit, they 
cannot see the danger that lies before them. Let us give them 
eyes. We say that we have a willing heart. Let us then give 
a proof of it. a proof of our love, and of the sincerity of our 
prayers." 

At this meeting eighteen head of cattle, thirty-five sheep and 
goats, ten shillings in cash, and eight wooden bowls were 
contributed. The spirit which characterized the entire proceed- 
ings would have done honour to Yorkshire or Cornwall. 

But t\\e best kind of fruit resulting from missionary labour 
Is seen in the holy lives and happy deaths of converted natives. 
Many affecting instances might be given did space permit. A 
few remarks in reference to the last days of one of the oldest 
Namaqua converts, with whom I was well acquainted, may 
appropriately close the present chapter. 

Gert Links has been already mentioned as one of the elders 
of the native church at Lily Fountain station ; and I shall never 
forget his earnest, glowing address at a public meeting, in which 
he contrasted the past and the present state of the tribe to 
which he belonged, and the wonderful change which had been 
produced by the Gospel. He had long walked in the way to 
heaven as a consistent Christian ; and soon after my last visit to 
Xamaqualaud, he sickened and died. He was divinely sustained 
and comforted during a long and painful illness, and he always 
received the visits of his Minister with gratitude and joy. "When 
old Gert felt that his end was drawing near, he sent a messenger 
to call the Missionary, as he had something particular to com- 
municate to him before he died. Mr. Bailie immediately went 
to his hut, which was about four miles from Bethel ; on entering 
which he found the dying Christian happy in God, but very- 
weak. He faintly whispered that his Teacher was almost too 
late, as his speech had nearly left him. His friends then raised 
him up to a sitting posture, and he proceeded to relate his 
views and feelings respecting a future state of being, and the 
truth of the Gospel. I shall not trouble the reader with the 
strange jargon in which he spoke, but the testimony of the 



CHAP. VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 567 

dying Namaqua, as rendered into plain English by the Mis- 
sionary who visited him, was as follows : — " I bave at this 
moment a particular impression of the immortality of the soul. 
My body is half dead ; I have lost the use of both legs and of one 
arm ; and if my soul were not immortal, it would be half dead 
also ; but, instead of that, I am constantly thinking of God and 
His service, and of the love of Christ ; and I can think with 
great freedom and ease. I have a special conviction, also, that 
the Bible is God's book, and its precious truths are constantly 
running through my mind, and afford me great comfort. I see 
now more clearly than ever that the Missionaries are not com- 
mon men, but they are the servants of God sent to us by Him 
to declare His word." And then looking round upon the 
people who had assembled to hear his last words, the good old 
man said to them with all the energy of which he was capable ; 
" Pay great attention to the word of your teachers, and remem- 
ber that they speak in the name of the Saviour." Being quite 
exhausted, he had only power to add, " I have done." He was 
now gently laid down again, and about an hour afterwards his 
spirit departed in the full assurance of hope. " Blessed are the 
dead that die in the Lord." 



CHAPTER VIII. 

CONCLUDING INCIDENTS AND OBSERVATIONS. 

Progress of the Work at the Cape — Educational Department — School 
Examinations — Languages and Translations — Progress of Civilization 
— Spiritual Results of the Gospel — Missionaries raised up — Arrivals and 
Departures — Deaths — Failure of Health — Return to England — 
Embarkation — St. Helena — Ascension — Arrival at Southampton — 
Concluding Observations — Retrospect — Appeal. 

The invervals between my respective visits to the interior 
.of Southern Africa, and several years afterwards, were spent in 



5G8 PAUT III. — THE CAPE OE GOOD HOPE. 

earnest efforts to consolidate and extend our missionary opera- 
tions in Cape Town and neighbourhood. In these evangelical 
labours I was nobly supported and aided by my beloved bre- 
thren in the ministry, and also by the Mission school teachers, 
Local Preachers, and Leaders ; and it is pleasing to know that 
our united labours were not in vain in the Lord. On almost 
every station in the District we w r ere favoured to see the congre- 
gations improve ; and, although the progress of the work was 
not rapid, it was steady, and each successive year witnessed an 
accession of promising members to the church. 

But the most encouraging and hopeful department of our 
work w r as that which pertained to the training up of the rising 
generation. Reference has already been made to our interesting 
and prosperous Sabbath schools in Cape Town. These useful 
institutions were not only extended to the rural districts, but 
the number of day schools was increased, and we had ultimately 
one in connexion with every principal station. At an early 
period the Colonial Government extended its fostering care to 
district schools, for the education of the children of the higher 
classes of society ; and when it awoke to the importance and 
necessity of doing something more for the instruction of the poor, 
we put in our claim, in common with other religious bodies, and 
obtained grants in aid for sixteen day schools. This was a great 
help to us, and considerably relieved the funds of the parent Mis- 
sionary Society, as in many instances the Government grant and 
the children's school pence entirely supported the institutions. 
In the absence of a normal school for the training of native 
teachers, w T e did our best by private instruction, and by fre- 
quently visiting the schools to improve our agents, and more 
fully to prepare them for their important work. On our country 
stations we were obliged to commence by giving elementary in- 
struction in the native language of the people ; but in accordance 
w r ith the requirements of Government and our own convictions 
of duty, we invariably strove to lead our pupils on to a know- 
ledge of the English tongue. Xotwithstanding the difficulties 
with which we had to contend, we succeeded in the educational 
department of our work far beyond what many would suppose ;. 
for whilst some of our schools, especially in the rural districts^ 



CHAP. VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 569 

were much below what we could have desired, others in the 
towns and villages were of a very respectable character. 

With a view to render our Mission schools as efficient as 
possible, the resident Ministers on the respective stations 
generally visited them once a week; and I made it a part of my 
duty to examine them at stated periods. On the occasion of 
the annual examinations I generally arranged to have a few 
rewards to distribute, according to the respective merits of the 
scholars. On entering the school I have often been amused to- 
observe the earnestness with which the children would cast their 
little sparkling eyes on the carpet bag which I carried in my 
hand, as if they were already calculating on the quantity or 
quality of its contents. When the various exercises in reading, 
writing, arithmetic, geography, history, &c, were finished, the 
presents were spread out on a form, and the scholars were called 
up two and two, boys and girls alternately, and allowed to have 
their choice of articles, according to the order in which the 
teacher could recommend them as to diligence, punctuality, good 
behaviour, and progress, during the year. While this process 
was going on in some of our schools, a physiognomist or philo- 
sopher might have contemplated the scene with interest, and 
speculated upon human nature as there exhibited to view, in a 
rising generation just emerging from heathen darkness. Some 
would take considerable time to examine the intrinsic value 
of a book or other article before they made their choice, whilst 
others were carried away by outward appearances, and at once 
fixed upon that which was most gay and showy in form or 
colour. The school presents generally consisted of articles of 
wearing apparel, remnants of printed calico, little books, 
thimbles, needles, pens, pencils, &e. 9 which were kindly supplied 
by the friends of Missions in England. On behalf of these dear 
African children I desire to express our obligation to Mrs. 
Hoole of London, Mrs. Simon of Jersey, Miss Beard and Miss 
Mitchell of Freshwater, Mrs. C. Dore of Newport, Isle of 
Wight, and to many unknown friends, for valuable packages of 
presents forwarded from time to time for our Mission schools in 
the Cape of Good Hope District. The most valuable parcel of 
school presents that ever came to hand, was one which con- 



570 PAET III. — THE CAFE OF GOOD HOPE. 

tained a number of useful little garments, the result of a noble 
sacrifice made by a few boys and girls, who, with the consent 
of their parents, denied themselves the gratification of sugar in 
their tea, and butter on their bread, for a stated period, that the 
amount thus saved might be spent in procuring clothing for 
little destitute African children. "When the letter was read in 
the school, previous to the distribution of the articles, stating the 
means by which they had been procured, and the motives with 
which they were sent, tears streamed down many a sable cheek, 
at the thought that they were thus remembered and loved 
by their little white brothers and sisters in England ; and they 
requested at once that a message of gratitude and love might 
be sent to their benefactors, which was done accordingly. 

Intimately connected with the educational department of 
missionary labour is that which relates to the study of lan- 
guages, and the providing of a native literature for the people 
of our charge in foreign lands. In Southern Africa the Mis- 
sionaries preach to the people in four or five different languages; 
and although they are alive to the importance of diffusing as 
much as possible a knowledge of the English tongue, they find 
it absolutely necessary in the mean time to provide books for 
the people in the vernacular dialects of the respective countries 
where they labour. Whilst our esteemed brethren beyond the 
eastern frontier were engaged in translating the Scriptures, and 
preparing hymns and school books in Kaffir and Sechuana, some 
of the Missionaries at the Cape were zealously performing 
similar services for the Hottentots and Dutch-speaking portion 
of their people. Something considerable had been done in this 
way previous to my arrival in South Africa : and during the 
period of my connexion with the Cape of Good Hope District, 
a new Hymn Book, the Conference Catechisms, several school 
books, and a number of tracts, were printed in Dutch, as well 
as a Grammar and some portions of Scripture in Namaqua 
Hottentot. The last named works were from the pen of the 
Eev. Henry Tindali, who, together with the Eev. Messrs. 
Haddy, Cameron, Eidgill, and Eidsdale, took an active part in 
translating and putting through the press the Dutch publica- 



CHAP. VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 571 

tions required for the use of our people in the public worship of 
<xod, in their families, and in the schools.* 

The advancement of the people in civilization, and in the 
knowledge of Christianity, as well as in the higher walks of 
experimental religion, being an object which is constantly kept 
in view by our Missionaries, it commended itself to the approval 
of all classes of the community ; and I am happy to say that in 
the prosecution of our work we never met with the slightest 
interruption from the Government authorities or others. Dur- 
ing my residence in the Cape Colony, the Governors who ruled 
in succession were Sir Harry Smith, Charles H. Darling, Esq., 
Sir George Cathcart, and Sir George Grey, all of whom mani- 
fested a friendly interest in the object of our Mission. Indeed, 
his Excellency Sir George Grey was more than friendly. He 
was the zealous promoter and benevolent patron of religious 
instruction, general education, and social progress among the 
natives. The first cheque that he drew upon the bank after 
his arrival in South Africa was for five pounds, as a present to 
treat the children of our Mission school at Somerset (West); 
who went out in a body to show their respect for him as the 
representative of Queen Victoria, on his entering the village, 
and to sing the national anthem. This was only one of many- 
acts of kindness and benevolence to our Mission which I could 
enumerate, to say nothing of the personal friendly intercourse 
which I frequently had with him, and of which I shall ever 
cherish a pleasing remembrance. 

* A few years before I left the Cape, my friend Mr. Nichols, of 46, Hoxton 
Square, London, sent me out a small Albion press ; and I fitted up, at my 
own expense, a little printing office in connexion with my own station at 
Rondebosch. This was of great service to the Mission. Having taught 
myself the art of printing in a humble degree, I spent all the hours of re- 
laxation which I could command from close mental application, in attention 
to this exercise. I brought out, in a short time, Rules and Regulations for 
the Management of the Lily rountain Missionary Institution, in Dutch and 
English, sixteen pages; Rules of the Wesleyan Methodist Society, in Dutch; 
a number of hymns, schedules, tracts, and handbills, in both languages, in 
addition to the Circuit Plans, and a variety of other papers, from year to 
year, free of cost, which was a considerable saving of expense to the 
-Society, and a useful auxiliary to our work. 



572 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

Neither were the subordinate functionaries backward in ten- 
dering us their hearty good-will and their generous support, as 
a reference to the Annual Missionary Eeport will abundantly 
testify. When the intelligence reached the Cape that the Con- 
stitution securing a representative Government was at length 
granted to the Colony by the Imperial Parliament, the Queen's- 
birthday, June 24th, 1853, was set apart for general rejoicing; 
and the scholars of all the schools in the city, numbering three 
thousand five hundred, were invited to a treat prepared for 
them by the municipality of Cape Town. It was a grand sight 
to behold ten thousand people congregated on the parade, in 
front of the stand from which his Honour Lieutenant-Governor 
Darling and other gentlemen delivered interesting addresses; 
and the Wesleyan Mission schools occupied a prominent posi- 
tion, with their respective banners floating in the breeze. And 
when the first Colonial Parliament was inaugurated on the 1st 
of July, 1854, Mrs. Moister and I received invitations and 
cards of admission, to witness the interesting ceremony, in 
common with the heads of other sections of the church and 
their families. As there is no Established or State Church at 
the Cape, so there is no distinction made by the Government 
between the different religious bodies, so far as honourable 
recognition is concerned ; and it is hoped that the time will 
soon come when all orthodox Protestant Christian churches 
will be treated alike in the distribution of financial aid from the 
colonial chest. 

It is pleasing to contemplate the tangible results of mission- 
ary labour in heathen lands, as they appear in the evident 
improvement of the temporal condition of a people who receive 
the Gospel and realize its ameliorating influences; but it is- 
still more delightful to witness saving conversions to God, and 
the ingathering of precious souls to the church of Christ. 
And when the converts to the faith of the Gospel are themselves 
called to be standard-bearers in the army of the Lord of 
hosts, it is cause of yet higher exultation and joy. In all 
these respects we had cause to rejoice that our labour was not 
in vain in the Lord, on our respective stations at the Cape of 
Good Hope. Christian villages have been settled in many 



CHAP. VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 573 

places where a few years ago the darkness of heathenism pre- 
vailed. The arts of civilized life have been taught to native 
tribes once barbarous and savage in the extreme. Churches 
have been organized, and schools established for the training of 
the rising generation, to an extent which cannot fail to be pro- 
ductive of the best results in time to come. And, best of all, 
precious souls have been won for Christ from almost every 
native tribe in Southern Africa ; many of whom have been found 
worthy to be employed as Teachers and Preachers for the bene- 
fit of their fellow countrymen. In our colonial towns several 
Intelligent and talented young men, themselves the fruit of mis- 
sionary labour, have been called to the work of the ministry, 
and are discharging the duties of their sacred calling with credit 
to themselves and advantage to the people among whom they 
labour. A few brief notices concerning those who have been 
thus raised up in the District of which I had charge, may be 
interesting to the reader. 

The Eev. Henry Tindall accompanied his parents to South 
Africa whilst he was yet a little boy ; and his revered father, the 
Hev. Joseph Tindall, being for many years honourably engaged 
in our Mission work, the son enjoyed advantages superior to 
many, and was in early life brought to a saving knowledge of 
the truth. On my arrival at the Cape, Mr. H. Tindall had 
already begun to preach, and his early pulpit efforts not only 
met with general acceptance, but they were regarded by his 
friends as indicative of future usefulness in the church of 
Christ. The anticipations thus raised have been realized in a 
pleasing manner. At the District Meeting of 1852, I had the 
pleasure of proposing him as a candidate for our Ministry ; and 
having passed his examination with acceptance, and been cor- 
dially received by the British Conference, he entered upon his 
work in Great Namaqualand with commendable zeal and per- 
severance. Having fulfilled the period of his probation in a man- 
ner satisfactory to his brethren and to our people generally, he 
was solemnly ordained to the full work of the Ministry in Burg- 
Street chapel, before a large congregation, on the 3rd of June, 
1857 ; and he has ever since been usefully and honourably 
-engaged in missionary labour, chiefly on colonial stations. 



574 PABT III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

From Mr. TindalFs superior educational advantages, his accu- 
rate knowledge of the English, Dutch, and Xamaqua languages, 

and his mental and physical adaptation for missionary work, we 
anticipate for him a long and successful career of usefulness in 
that part of the Lord's vineyard where his lor is cast in the 
order of Divine Providence. 

The Rev. John Thome was born in the colony, of Methodist 
parents originally from England. When he first attracted my 
notice, he was a little boy in the Sabbath school, and I was 
much impressed with the manner in which he recited his piece 
at the anniversary. He and his interesting little sisters were 
among the first who joined the Bible Class which I formed 
immediately after our arrival at the Cape. As young Thorne 
grew up, I was pleased to observe his serious deportment ; and 
lie soon became a decidedly religious character, although it was- 
not till some time afterwards that he obtained a clear sense of the 
favour of God. When I organized the ;: Cape Town Wesleyan 
Youths'" Mental Improvement Society,'''* he was one of the first 
who joined the Association ; and for several years he held the 
office of Secretary, exhibiting considerable skill in the composi- 
tion of his essays, the drawing up of the annual reports, and 
the general discharge of his duties. Being deeply impressed 
with the conviction that the Lord had a work for John Thorne 
to do in His vineyard, I obtained the consent of his parents for 
his being placed more rally under my care, that I might direct 
him in his studies, and aid him in preparing for future useful- 
ness. I gave him the charge of a Mission school, which he 
conducted with efficiency, notwithstanding his youth : and he 
soon began to preach with acceptance. He was received by the 
District Meeting and Conference of IS 6:2 as a candidate for our 
Ministry ; and has since been usefully employed in missionary 
work, first at Robertson, and afterwards at Burghersdorp. 
"From his genuine piety, Christian simplicity, industrious and 
studious habits, and respectable mental endowments, I anti- 
cipate for him a useful and honourable missionary career. 

The Eevs. Frederick D. Edwards and "William Edwards (b) 
are sons of the venerable E. Edwards, who, after long bearing 
the burden and heat of the clay in the high places of the IBs* 



CHAP. VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 575 

sion field, has recently retired as a Supernumerary, full of years 
and full of honours. Both of these promising young men were 
brought to God in early life ; and Frederick was for some time 
a member of the "Cape Town Wedeyan Youths' Mutual 
Improvement Society, 55 before which he read some essays of 
considerable merit. The two brothers were accepted as candi- 
dates for our Ministry by the Conference of 1865 ; and Fred- 
erick has gone to labour at Swellendam, and William has been 
sent to Peddie, in the Graham's Town District. From their 
educational advantages and efficiency in the Dutch language, 
it is hoped that they will be useful especially in the native depart- 
ment of the work. 

At different periods we received into the Cape District, dur- 
ing my connexion with it, esteemed brethren from other parts 
of the great field, who came to our aid with all the advantages 
of practical missionary experience. The Eev. William Barber 
arrived from Ceylon, on the 3rd of November, 1858, in a feeble 
state of health. The change of climate proved beneficial to 
him; and he has ever since continued to labour with acceptance 
first at Wynberg, and afterwards at Swellendam and Stellen- 
bosch. The Eev. Messrs. Cameron and Parsonson came from 
the Eastern Province, to supply the places of the Eev. Messrs. 
Haddy and Eidsdale on their return home ; and, after rendering: 
valuable services in the Cape District for several years, one 
removed to England and the other to Natal. Since my depar- 
ture from the Cape, the Eev. P. Batchelor has arrived from 
India ; and my friend, the Eev. Samuel Hardey, has come from 
Australia, as my successor as General Superintendent of the 
Cape of Good Hope District. 

The only Missionary sent out direct from England to reinforce 
the Cape District during the past fifteen years, wag the Eev. John 
Priestley, who has laboured faithfully, and been made a bless- 
ing to many ; but whose experience is strikingly illustrative of 
the vicissitudes of the foreign work, whilst at the same time it 
calls for the sympathy and prayers of the friends of Missions. 
He arrived at the Cape on the 12th of December, 1855, in 
company with the Eev. Messrs. Stephenson, Scott, Dean, and 
Pordige, four zealous young Missionaries, who were on their 



576 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

way to India. When his fellow-voyagers, after a few days on 
shore, had proceeded to the place of their destination, Mr. 
Priestley commenced his labours at Bondebosch in the true 
missionary spirit ; and by his Christian simplicity, genuine 
piety, and genial spirit, he soon won the affections of our peo- 
ple. He was afterwards appointed to the charge of our Simon's 
Town station, where he laboured with equal acceptance and 
success. On completing the term of his probation, he was 
solemnly ordained to the full work of the Ministry in Wesley 
Chapel, Burg Street, on the 14th of September, 1859 ; and, 
having been united in marriage to a young lady like-minded 
with himself, they were appointed to a station in Great Nama- 
qualand. The oxen and waggons being ready, and every neces- 
•sary preparation having been made, Mr. and Mrs. Priestley 
left Cape Town on Monday, the 19 Mi of September, 1859, for 
their distant interior station. On the following morning I rode 
out to their first encampment, and after breakfast we united 
in prayer and praise, and took an affectionate leave of each 
other, little thinking that some of us would never be per- 
mitted to meet together again in this world ; but so it was. 

For five years Mr. and Mrs. Priestley pursued their arduous 
work under many difficulties, arising from peculiar circumstances 
already alluded to ; and on their return to the colony, towards 
the close of 1864, they were appointed to Stellenbosch, where 
it was hoped that they would be favoured to enjoy for some 
years the advantages of civilized society, and a sphere of labour 
of a more encouraging character. But this hope was not 
realized. They had scarcely become settled on their new station 
when Mrs. Priestley was seized with a severe illness, which ter- 
minated fatally in the course of a few days. She died happy 
in God, on the 23rd of February, 1865. The shock was 
severely felt by her bereaved husband ; and being himself in a 
debilitated state, and left with two motherless children, he was 
allowed to proceed with them to England towards the close of 
the year. They arrived at Southampton on Friday, the 19 th of 
January, 1866 ; and on receiving a telegraphic message I imme- 
diately went over to welcome my afflicted brother with his 
infant charge to his native shores ; and we were favoured once 



CHAP. VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 577 

more to. mingle our prayers and praises at the throne of the 
heavenly grace. 

This affecting instance of affliction and bereavement recalls 
to my memory many others which I have witnessed in 
the course of a long life of missionary labour. I have now 
before me a list of seventeen esteemed and beloved colleagues and 
fellow-labourers who have fallen in the [Mission field, or who have 
been called to rest from their labours soon after returning to 
their native land, viz., the Revs. William Ritchie, Thomas Dove, 
Thomas Crosthwaite, Abraham Cooper, John Cullmgford, Robert 
Crane, John Lee, William Bannister, Samuel Durrie, John Mortier, 
James Rathbone, Joseph Biggs, Edward Branston, William Hud- 
son, John Blackwell, Barnabas Shaw, and Joseph Tind all, besides 
many other members of Mission families. If space permitted, 
it would be very pleasant to linger for a few moments on the 
memory of such of these dear departed ones as have not been 
already mentioned in these records of missionary labour. The 
two revered brethren last named finished their course a few years 
ago in Southern Africa ; and having been associated with them 
in the work of the Lord more intimately and for a longer 
period than usual, I cannot pass on without a few words, as a 
humble tribute to their memory. 

The Rev. Barnabas Shaw, the zealous and devoted pioneer 
Wesleyan Missionary to Southern Africa, was for many- 
years well known, by his earnest pleadings or pathetic com- 
munications, to British Methodists. When I arrived at the Cape 
of Good Hope in the beginning of 1851, he had recently returned 
to the colony for the third time, and was plodding along in his 
Master's work as best he could, with his health considerably 
impaired. In 1854, his increasing infirmities obliged him to 
retire as a Supernumerary. During the remainder of his life he 
was my near neighbour at Rondebosch; and I had frequent 
opportunities of witnessing his Christian simplicity, patience 
under suffering, calm resignation to the will of God, and 
his firm reliance on the merits of Christ in prospect of dis- 
solution. He finished his course in the faith and hope of the 
Gospel, on the 21st of June, 1557; and his beloved wife followed 
him to the better country about four years afterwards. 

p p 



578 PART III. — THE CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. 

The Key. Joseph Ttxdall was for many years a most 
laborious and useful Missionary in Great Xamaqualand, and in 
the Damara Country ; and when failing health obliged him 
to relinquish the more arduous duties of an interior station, he 
was appointed to a colonial Circuit. In this position he was 
highly respected and esteemed by his brethren in the Ministry, 
and by the people among whom he laboured. Although he 
was made useful by such services as he was able to render, 
which were always free, cheerful, and hearty, his constitution 
never fully recovered from the injuries which it had received 
from his travels and exposure in the interior, and in 1S58 he 
was obliged to retire as a Supernumerary. He came to reside 
at Eondebosch, near Cape Town, where he still rendered valu- 
able aid in carrying on the good work, as his health would per- 
mit. I had now an opportunity of seeing him almost every 
day, and can testify to his Christian deportment and general 
excellencies of character. In 1860 he was bereaved of his- 
beloved wife, who had so long been the companion of his joys 
and sorrows ; and in the course of the ensuing year he was 
called to follow her to the heavenly world. He died somewhat 
suddenly, but happy in God, when on a visit to his son at 
Eobertson, on the 25th of November, 1861, 

During my residence at the Cape I had also to follow to the 
grave many useful members of our church, some of whom in 
life and in death gave pleasing evidence of the regenerating 
and sanctifying power of Divine grace. Concerning one family,, 
connected with the native department of our work, with which I 
was well acquainted, I may now make a few brief remarks. 

John Lutgens was a pious, devoted, and consistent church 
member and Local Preacher in connexion with our native work 
at Eondebosch. When he had pursued his useful course for- 
several years, , and commended himself to the respect and 
esteem of all who knew him, a lady came to me one day, 
and proposed that he should be entirely devoted to religious 
work as a Scripture Eeader, believing that in this capacity he 
might be made still more useful. I regarded the proposal 
with favour, and said I should be glad to promote it, if the 
means could be provided for his support. Although the 



CHAP. VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 579 

lady was not a member of our church, she generously offered 
to contribute the sum necessary for this purpose, £1 per week, 
herself, if I would superintend and direct his labours. John 
immediately entered upon his delightful work, visiting from 
house to house, conversing, reading, and praying with all 
to whom he could gain access, and using his utmost efforts to 
induce them to attend the house of God, and to send their 
children to school. The result was soon seen in the increase 
of our congregations, and in the general improvement of the 
people. 

This useful native labourer had pursued his delightful work 
only about a year, when he sickened and died ; but I am thank- 
ful to say that he died, as he had lived, in the faith and hope of 
the Gospel. He was held in such high esteem that his funeral 
was attended by a large concourse of people of all classes of the 
community. Among the rest came the neighbouring Clergyman 
of the Church of England, offering, as an apology for the liberty 
which he had taken, the high esteem in which he held the departed. 
I was so pleased with this act of liberality on the part of the 
the reverend gentleman, that I asked him to give a short address 
in our chapel to the assembled multitude, in English, after the 
service had been read in the native language ; which he did 
with good effect. He then walked with me in the funeral pro- 
cession, and stood by my side whilst I read the remainder of 
the service at the grave, in the Eondebosch churchyard ; and 
on our return home the Clergyman took a part in the Union 
prayer-meeting held in the Wesleyan chapel in the evening. 
Such is our happy freedom from sectarian or party feeling on 
some of our foreign stations. 

Shortly before the death of John Lutgens, two of his children 
died ; and, within a short space, death came a third time 
to that humble cottage, near to my own residence. The victim 
this time was the afflicted and sorrowing mother, whose double 
bereavement had enfeebled her body and crushed her spirits. 
But Sophia was eminently pious, and fully prepared for her 
final change. This was the last death-bed scene that I wit- 
nessed in Africa, and I shall never forget the calm resignation 
and the unwavering confidence of the dear sufferer. On one 

2 p 2 



55 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

occasion, when I had been commending- her to God in prayer, 
on rising from my knees I endeavoured to speak to her a few 
words of comfort and encouragement, reminding her that U 
would not be long before she would meet with her dear de- 
parted Mends and her little ones in heaven. "When I e : 
to speak, she looked up. and, with a radiant smile upon her ema- 
ciated bronzy countenance, she replied, in her own plaintive 
language. ic Ja, Mijnheer, gij spreekt de ' ~ 

in het dot der schaduwe des do o els ; m 

danker, Aon het \chijni hi licit; en 

linn en Jeer: zal :'/ met \ i Hieer ' Which in ay 

be thus rendered : " Tes a Sir, you speak the truth : I am now 
in the valley of the shadow of death ; but, thank God, it is not 
dark. I see heavenly light shining in at the other end, and I 
shall soon be for ever with the Lord." Soon after this she 
resigned her happy spirit into the hands of her Redeemer. 
This is but one of many genuine converts to the faith of the 
Gospel on our Mission stations, who have been found faithful 
nnto death, and wh:. I trust, will be our joy and the crown of 
our rejoicing in the lay of the Lord Jesus. 

On several of our South African Mission stations we have 
been favoured with a cheering measure of success. After many 
changes we have now in connexion with the Cape of Good 
Hope District, ten Missionaries^ twenty-seven 
other preaching-places, sixteen hundred church members, nearly 
three thousand scholars in the Mission sch: :':. thousand 

eight hum Ired attendants onpubUc worship. 

RETURN TO ENGLAND. 

Ir will not be surprising to any one acquainted with the 
nature of cur foreign work, and the effect of a lengthened resi- 
dence previously within the tropics, that, after nearly thirty years 
of such continuous labour as devolved upon us, our health and 
constitutions began to give way. In my own -case, as well as 
in that of my dear wife, the failure of health might be traced to 
over exertion as much as to the influence of foreign climates. In 
every sphere of labour which we had occupied, our strength 
and been taxed to the utmost to meet the demands of the 



CHAP. VIIT. — CONCLUDING OBSEEVATIONS. 581 

work ; and during our residence in Southern Africa, I had not 
only the charge of an important Circuit for ten years in succes- 
sion, requiring a full supply of ministerial labour to sustain 
its various interests in the English and native departments ; 
but my official duties in the general superintendency of the 
District involved considerable care and responsibility. I had 
to visit the respective stations and schools at stated periods, to 
correspond largely with the Missionaries, Government officials, 
and the General Secretaries of the Society in London, as well as 
to attend to the financial affairs of the District, together with 
occasional services for my brethren on the frontier and in Xatal, 
involving an amount of writing and book-keeping known only 
to those who have had practical experience in such matters, 
economy and accuracy being of the utmost importance. These 
accumulated labours, with the exposure consequent on travel- 
ling in the interior, where it is often necessary to sleep upon 
the cold ground and otherwise to endure hardness, resulted in 
an attack of illness, accompanied by such a complete prostra- 
tion of strength and wearing down of the system, as rendered it 
necessary to take medical advice. Dr. Abercrombie * candidly 
gave his opinion that no considerable improvement could be 
expected without relaxation from my arduous labours, and a 
change to a more bracing climate, and advised our return to 
England at our earliest convenience. This announcement took 
us somewhat by surprise, as we had relinquished all thoughts 
of ever leaving Africa. After due consideration, however, we 
felt it to be our duty to act upon this advice, the health of my 

* This liberal-minded and philanthropic gentleman has won the esteem 
and love of all who know him, by his kindness to the poor, and by the 
readiness with which he comes forward on all occasions on behalf of reli- 
gious and charitable institutions. For many years past Dr. Abercrombie 
has generously attended the Wesley an Missionaries and their families in 
Cape Town free of charge, besides contributing annually to the funds of the 
Society, and frequently presiding at our public meetings. I have often felt 
under deep obligation to him for his kindness in promptly and freely afford- 
ing medical aid to my brethren in the District, as well as to missionary 
visitors who have been on their way to or from India and Australia ; and 
I have not failed to report the same to the Missionary Committee in Lon- 
don, who are gratefully sensible of his kindness. 






! 



5 S3 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

dear wife being considerably impaired also ; and, in the opinion 
of our medical adviser, requiring a change as much as my 
own. 

When the Missionary Committee in London were made 
acquainted with the state of the case, permission was granted 
for our return to England, in the kindest possible manner. The 
General Secretaries wrote, " We are sorry to hear of the serious 
failure of your health ; and considering your long and faithful 
services abroad, we cannot urge you to remain longer to the 
injury of your health. You are at liberty to return to England 
after the District Meeting, if you still find it necessary to do 
so." I may here state that in my communications with the 
honoured directors of the Wesleyan Missionary Society, I have 
always found them ready to meet the reasonable wishes of their 
agents, so far as they felt they could do so without damage to 
the work in which they were engaged. Having given a speci- 
men or two, in the early part of this volume, of the kind letters 
which I received, when labouring in Western Africa, from the 
General Secretaries of the Society for the time being, I have 
pleasure in placing upon record the last official communication 
addressed to me at the Cape of Good Hope, evincing as it does 
the same care for the comfort and welfare of the Missionaries. 

" London, May Mli, 1860. 

"My deau Beother, — Yours of the 21st of March came 
duly to hand, and gives us additional reason to praise your 
forethought and care for the work. Amidst the distractions of 
the anniversary week you will hardly look for a long letter ; but 
I am unwilling to let the mail leave without a line expressive of 
our hope that your health is not worse, and that you may find 
the voyage home serviceable to you and Mrs. Moister, should 
you still find it necessary to take it. I am sorry to say that 
we are not yet provided with a successor for you, nor have we 
any reasonable prospect of one at the Conference. May a kind 
Providence undertake for us ! 

" Should Mr. W. E. Longden have arrived from Port Eliza- 
beth in search of medical advice, I am sure you will be happy 
to render him any aid in your power, and so will all the 



CHAP. VIII.— CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 583 

brethren. Please remember me affectionately to him, and say 
we hope it may please God to bless the means used for his 
recovery, and shall be glad to hear how he goes on. Meantime 
wishing him and you and all the brethren every needful good, 
" 1 remain yours affectionately, 
"Rev. W. Moister. 33 " G. Osbobn." 

The Eev. Samuel Hardey, who had previously rendered good 
-service to the Society as General Superintendent of Missions in 
India and in Australia, was ultimately appointed as my suc- 
cessor at the Cape. The Eev. W. E. Longden, so kindly 
referred to in the above letter, and who received every attention 
we could give him on his repeated visits to the Cape, finally 
sank under the influence of the disease from which he was 
suffering. He died in great peace, and with a full hope of 
everlasting life, at tJitenhage, on the 1st of May, 1864. 

At the last annual District Meeting at which I presided 
before leaving South Africa, which was held in Cape Town in 
the month of January, 1860, 1 was so graciously sustained, both 
in body and mind, in the discharge of my duties, that hopes 
"were cherished and warmly expressed by the brethren, that my 
health might be so far restored as to admit of my remaining at 
my post a little longer. These hopes I entertained myself for 
a short time; but after the excitement of the meeting was over, 
I experienced such a serious relapse, with such entire prostra- 
tion of strength, that I was induced to decide at once to avail 
myself of the kind permission of the Committee to return to 
England, feeling strongly averse to the idea of nominally filling 
a responsible office, the duties of which I was unable efficiently 
to fulfil. We therefore made our arrangements accordingly, 
settled our affairs, and prepared for our departure. 

On Sunday, the 10th of May, I preached for the last time at 
"Wesley Chapel, Burg Street, and on the following Sabbath at 
Eondeboseh, to crowded and attentive congregations. These 
duties were performed under much bodily weakness ; but I was 
thankful to be able to lift my warning voice once more in the 
-sanctuaries where I had been endeavouring faithfully to preach, 
ithe Gospel for nearly ten years, and thus publicly to take 



584 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

leave of a people in whose spiritual welfare I felt deeply 
interested. 

The following days were spent in receiving the farewell visits 
of dear friends, and in completing* our arrangements for our 
homeward voyage. On Tuesday morning, the 22nd, our friend, 
Mr. James Morris, having kindly offered to drive us in his 
covered conveyance to Cape Town, we united in prayer and 
praise with a large number of our dear people who had assem- 
bled together at our residence at Eondebosch, and then took 
our departure. As we drove off, the Mission school children, 
with their teacher, Mr. John Thorne, at their head, lined the 
path, and struck up a beautiful parting hymn ; and the last 
sound we heard was that of sweet infant voices chanting the 
praises of God. On reaching the city, it was already time to go 
on board the mail steamer. We therefore drove to the wharf at 
once,wherewe found the Eev. Messrs. Edwards, Cameron, Tindall, 
Godman, and Barber, with Messrs. Smithers, Davison, Tonkin, 
Marsh, and a large number of other friends, assembled together 
to take an affectionate leave of us. A few of these accompanied 
us on board the " Dane," and remained with us till nearly 
noon, when they also were obliged to say " Good bye/' and 
the anchor was weighed, and we steamed away from the coast 
of Africa.* 

* On our departure from South Africa, as on former occasions, wa 
received muck kindness from a people who had become endeared to us by 
the strongest ties of Christian affection. A kind and respectful address wa& 
presented to me previous to our embarkation, signed by about two hundred 
of our members, including all the Stewards, Local Preachers, and Leaders, 
overflowing with love and good wishes for myself and Mrs. Moister, and 
expressing earnest hopes for the recovery of our health, and speedy return 
to the Cape. A similar address was presented by the Missionaries, bearing 
the signature of every brother in the District who had the opportunity of 
joining in this expression of esteem ; whilst numerous communications came- 
from individual friends, teachers, and scholars, both in town and country ► 
Although I had no doubt of the confidence and esteem of my brethren and 
the people, it was very pleasant to receive these assurances of attachment ; 
and it would have been in harmony with my feelings to have placed upon 
record, in these pages, some of the documents alluded to, had space per- 
mitted, and had I not wished to avoid the appearance of self-adulation. Our 
friends at the Cape of Good Hope, as at other places, may, nevertheless, 
rest assured of our undying affectionate remembrance. 



CHAP VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 585 

When we had in a measure recovered from the excitement 
and fatigue connected with our embarkation, and got accustomed 
once more to life on board a ship, we experienced a sensible 
improvement in our health ; and although the vessel was 
crowded with passengers of diversified nationalities and creeds, 
we found them generally civil and agreeable. Captain Hoffman 
and his officers did eveiy thing in their power to make all on 
board as comfortable as possible, and altogether the passage 
was as pleasant as any one which we had previously made. I 
was cordially invited to share in the services of the Sabb?th 
with an Episcopalian Minister who was on board ; and we had 
some profitable services, the fruits of which I trust will appear 
after many days. I also collected together a number of intelli- 
gent boys, who were passengers, and, with the consent of their 
parents and friends, formed them into a Bible Class, which I 
met every afternoon, when the weather and other circumstances 
would permit. 

On the morning of Friday, the 1st of June, we made the 
Island of St. Helena, the bold, rocky, barren appearance of 
which quite harmonized with the ideas which I had formed of 
it from my boyhood. After skirting the south-eastern shore 
for a short distance, we rounded the point, and James Town, 
the capital of the island, burst suddenly upon our view. It is 
situated in a narrow valley, with elevated rocky hills on either 
side, the summits of which are crowned with barracks and 
fortifications. After a hasty cup of coffee most of the passengers 
went on shore, and a few of us united and hired a conveyance 
for a trip to Longwood, the place of Napoleon's exile, about 
four miles distant from James Town. "We found a number of 
French artisans busily at work repairing the mansion, in accord- 
ance with an arrangement which had been made with the 
British Government. On our return we visited Buonaparte's 
tomb, which is situated in a gentle hollow at some distance 
below Longwood. We found the grave empty, the body of the 
Emperor having been removed to Prance some time before. 
On returning to James Town we made a few purchases, and 
hastened on board. The mails having been received, we 
weighed anchor about two o'clock p.m., and resumed our 
homeward voyage. 



586 PAST III. — TKE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

On Monday, the 4th. we came to the Island of Ascension, 
another bleak, barren, rocky islet in the Atlantic, where the 
steamer has to call for the mail bags. It is occnpied chiefly as 
a naval depot and Government rendezvous for the Western 

Coast of Africa. We went on shore for a fevr hours, and in the 
course of our ramble inspected the public buildings and naval 
hospital, which contained a number of x : id not 

iind much besides to interest us, and on returning to the ship 
we proceeded on our voyage soon after noon. 

Nothing worthy of special notice occurred during the re- 
mainder of the passage till, on Wednesday, the 27th. all was 
bustle and excitement among the passengers, as it was expected 
from the ship's reckoning that we should see land during the 
day. The weather was somewhat hazy, and we entered the 
chops of the Channel without sighting the Lizard, or any other 
part of the English coast, till, about three o'clock p.m., Eddy- 
stone Lighthouse burst upon our view all a: once like magic, 
when no one imagined we were so near to port. We soon 
afterwards received a pilot on board, and entered the harbour 
of Plymouth, where we had to land the English mails. The 
evening was stormy, and intelligence was received of many 
ships having lately been wrecked in the Channel. This, to- 
gether with the remarks of the pilot as to the state and pro- 
spects of the weather, induced many of the passengers to leave 
the ship here, contrary to their first intention ; but as to our- 
selves, we felt that we could trust in Provide:, x fix protection 
during the remainder of the passage ; and about eight o'clock 
p.m. the steamer weighed anchor and put to sea again. 

On the following morning, the storm having subsided, and 
the v,--; :'..e: having become fine, we had a beautiful view of the 
coast, as we steamed through the Xeedles and up the Solent and 
Southampton Waters. Soon after noon we entered Southampton 
dock, and once more set our feet upon our native shores. After 
passing our luggage through the Custom House, and dining at 
iavis's hotel, I walked out to Bittern, and took a part in an 
interesting public meeting, along with the Eev. Messrs. H. W. 
Williams and J. Little, the respected Ministers of the South- 
ampton Circuit. The next day we proceeded to London; 



CHAP. VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 587 

and on calling upon Dr. and Mrs. Hoole, they gave us a 
cordial welcome, on behalf of the Society, on returning once 
more to our native land, and warmly congratulated us on 
having been so mercifully preserved during so many years of 
arduous labour in the Mission field ; and the inward response 
of each of our hearts, I believe, was, " Bless the Lord, my 
soul, and forget not all His benefits." 



CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 

Although these Memorials of Missionary Labour have already 
exceeded the limits originally intended, I cannot bring them to 
a close without a retrospective glance at the way which has 
been traversed, and an earnest and affectionate appeal on the 
important subject to which they relate. 

With regard to that portion of the Mission field which has 
last passed under review, let me for a moment call attention to 
the aggregate results of the labours of the Wesley an Missionary 
Society, so far as they are capable of being embraced in a 
statistical estimate. I do most sincerely and very highly 
appreciate the efforts of kindred institutions, which keep the 
same object in view, and whose labours tend to humble the 
-sinner, exalt the Saviour, and promote the glory of God in the 
salvation of men ; but I am best acquainted with the missionary 
operations of that section of the Christian church to which I 
belong, and it is of those which I now speak, whilst I wish God 
speed to all others who are engaged in the same blessed work. 

It is now about fifty years since the first Wesleyan [Missionary 
arrived in Southern Africa under the circumstances already 
mentioned ; and let any one trace the history of the respective 
stations which have been formed, and mark the gradual ad- 
vancement of the work, as here briefly sketched, and say 
whether it has not been a successful enterprise. In many a 
once dark and desolate region missionary villages have been 
formed, Christian schools established, congregations gathered, 
churches organized, lands cultivated, and the people decently 
clothed, and raised to the enjoyment of all the blessings of 
civilized life. Languages which had been previously ifnwritte 






588 PAET III. — THE CAPE OE GOOD HOPE. 

have been reduced to grammatical form ; and the Holy Scrip- 
tures, as well as school books of various kinds, have been 
translated into the native dialects of the people. And, what is 
better still, the glorious Gospel of the blessed God has been 
freely and faithfully preached, in many instances with soul- 
saving power, to various tribes of natives inhabiting the vast 
continent. During the past half century we have reason to 
believe that hundreds and thousands have passed away to a 
brighter and better world above, from our respective stations 
in South Africa ; and we have still a great and glorious work in 
progress. In the five Districts into which the country is 
divided, we have sixty-three Missionaries, one hundred and 
thirty-eight chapels, three hundred and fifty-nine other preaching- 
places, eight thousand three hundred and thirty-seven church mem- 
bers, eleven thousand four hundred and fifty -six scholars in the 
Mission schools, and fifty -four thousand seven hundred and ninety 
attendants on public worship. 

Missions so numerous and extensive, and carried on, in many 
instances, in regions so remote from the centres of commerce and 
civilization, are necessarily attended with considerable expense, 
especially at their commencement, and they have a strong claim 
upon the kind consideration and benevolence of our friends at 
home. The Missionary and his family must be furnished with 
waggons and oxen to convey them and their baggage and stores 
to the scene of their future labours. Natives must be hired to 
assist, and supplied with food for the journey, which frequently 
extends to a distance of hundreds of miles, over roads which are 
almost impassable. The ground selected for the site of the new 
station must be cleared, buildings erected, and land cultivated 
for a future supply of provisions, and the work sustained in all 
its departments, for years before much local aid can be expected 
towards its support. But when the work is fairly organized, 
and the truths of Christianity are brought to bear upon the 
hearts and consciences of the people, they are invariably taught 
the scriptural duty of contributing towards the support of the 
Gospel according to their ability ; and in proportion to the depth 
and genuineness of the work of grace upon their hearts, they 
manifest a cheerful readiness to discharge this obligation. Ira 



CHAP. VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 5S9 

addition to the Methodistic plan of weekly, monthly, and 
quarterly contributions for the general support of the work upon 
the station, wherever it is practicable annual Missionary Meetings 
are held, as already stated, when the people, notwithstanding 
their general poverty, frequently manifest a commendable spirit 
of Christian liberality in aid of the funds of the Society for the 
spread of the Gospel throughout the world. 

It is, moreover, a pleasing fact that our foreign Auxiliary 
Missionary Societies are in many instances liberally supported 
not only by converted natives, but also by European colonists, 
who have themselves received spiritual benefit from our Missions, 
or who desire thus to express their views of the value and 
importance of our labours to the country in which their lot is 
cast in the order of Divine Providence. I remember, on one 
occasion, a noble-minded Christian gentleman built an elegant 
chapel at his own expense at a cos: of nearly £1,000, and pre- 
sented it to the Connexion. Soon after its completion, we held 
our first Missionary Meeting in this beautiful sanctuary, when I 
called upon the doner, to invite him to take the chair. This 
ionour he respectfully declined, alleging that he was " not much 
of a speaker;" at the same time he kindly placed in my hand a 
£5 bank note to drop in the plate, anonymously, to help the 
collection. This he gave in addition to his annual contribution 
of £10, which appeared on the list. The following year I 
waited on him again, when, on my way to the Missionary 
Meeting, and he again handed me something to drop in the 
plate for the collection. This time it proved to be a bank-note 
for £10. Time passed rapidly away, and on the approach of 
the third Missionary Meeting in the new chapel I called upon 
my friend again, for I desire never to neglect the real friends of 
Missions, and cc he that hath friends must show himself friendly. 5 ' 
On this occasion my friend, in his usual pleasant way, handed 
me a slip of paper for the collection, which, on opening, I found 
to my surprise, was a cheque for £20. At the next Missionary 
Meeting the anonymous contribution of my friend to the collec- 
tion was the noble sum of £50, which amount he has given 
repeatedly since, in the same quiet unostentatious way, in testi- 
mony of his admiration of the labours of the Wesleyan Mission- 



590 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

ary Society. On another occasion I received from a distant 
place a contribution to the Mission fund enclosed in a package 
which was sewed up with special care. When I had cut away 
the stitches, and unfolded the various coverings of leather, 
canvas, and paper, I found that it contained the liberal sum of 
£21, as the offering of a poor widow. From various sources 
the proceeds of the " Cape of Good Hope Auxiliary Wesleyan 
Missionary Society" for the past year amounted to £665; 
whilst the sum remitted from the South African Auxiliaries 
unitedly was £2,470. 

Every true friend of Christian Missions must rejoice to observe 
the interest which has been manifested of late years by the 
people of this country in Italy, India, and China, with their vast 
populations ; but I have no doubt but many will share with me 
in a feeling of holy jealousy lest by any means our old established 
Missions should be neglected. Our fears on this subject are 
enhanced by observing from the cc Missionary Notices" for 
March, 1866,- that the Committee -have been led, by the 
depressed state of the Society's funds, seriously to entertain the 
thought, not merely of retrenchment, but of actually abandoning 
some portions of the Mission field, or of handing them over to 
other Societies.* Surely the friends of Missions at heme will 
not allow these extreme measures to be adopted, but cc haste to 
the rescue " with a liberality and zeal which will warrant the 
Committee not only to continue, but strengthen, the existing 
Missions, and thus support the hands of the noble band of men 
who are toiling in distant lands under so many discouragements. . 

Of all the Missions of the Wesleyan Missionary Society, 

* It is satisfactory to observe that reference is now made to the Mission- 
aries on the spot, and to the people, for their opinion before any steps are 
taken towards abandoning stations already occupied, or handing them over 
to other Societies ; and it is hoped that the admonitory histories of our 
Missions at Berbice and Samoa will be a sufficient guard against any com- 
pact being entered into between the directors of different Missionary institu- 
tions in England for the appropriation of distinct sections of the Mission 
field, without reference to the pastors or people most deeply interested in 
such arrangements. The people of Great Namaqualand refuse to be trans- 
ferred to another Society, and nobly engage to do their best to support a 
"Wesleyan Missionary. 



CHAP. VIII. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 591 

throughout the widely extended sphere of its operations, none 
have been more successful than those which have been estab- 
lished in Africa and in the West Indies, — countries which have 
been so remarkably linked together in the order of Divine 
Providence, and to which these Memorials have a special refer- 
ence. Notwithstanding the numerous difficulties with which 
the Missionaries have had to contend, arising from Moham- 
medan superstitions and pagan darkness, — from unhealthy 
climates, slavery, human sacrifices, and barbarous languages, in 
addition to the desperate wickedness and depravity of the human 
heart, — a great and glorious work has been accomplished. 
Multitudes of the sable sons and daughters of Ham have been 
brought to a saving knowledge of the truth. Many have 
finished their course with joy, and have passed away to a 
brighter and a better world above, and many more are still 
travelling in the way to Zion. On the various stations in 
Africa and in the West Indies we have now one hundred and 
fifty-two Missionaries, four hundred and thirty -three chapels, five 
hundred and forty-eight other peaching -places, sixty thousand 
church members, forty thousand scholars in the Mission schools, 
and one hundred and ninety tico thousand attendants on public 
worship. 

Whilst we cherish in our hearts feelings of the liveliest grati- 
tude to God for this glorious extension of the work, and bless 
His holy name for every sinner saved by grace, we must not 
forget that very much yet remains to he done. Only the out- 
posts of the enemy's works have been taken. The citadel of 
Satan has yet to be assailed. Hundreds and thousands and 
millions of our fellow men are still in rebellion against the 
King of kings and Lord of lords. Let all who bear the 
Christian name buckle on their armour afresh, and come up to 
the help of the Lord against the mighty. Let the young men 
and maidens of this highly favoured land consecrate themselves 
to the glorious missionary enterprise, to labour at home or 
abroad, as the Lord may call them, in pulling down the strong 
holds of sin and Satan. Let Christian parents freely give up 
their children for this blessed work. Let all be more earnest in 
prayer, sympathy, and benevolence, opening their hearts and 



592 PART III. — THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

their hands freely to sustain the enterprise in a manner com- 
mensurate with its unspeakable importance, and it will prosper. 
Africa and the West Indies will be fully evangelized, and 
" Ethiopia shall stretch out her hands unto God." Italy, India, 
and China, with their teeming millions of people, will be 
gathered into the fold of Christ. The distant isles of the sea 
which still wait for God's law will receive the truth ; and " all 
shall know the Lord, from the least unto the greatest ;" for the 
mouth of the Lord hath spoken it. 

If you and I, dear reader, on thus parting company, should 
never meet again in this world, may we meet in the " better 
country,", and form a part of that " great multitude which no 
man can number, of all nations, and kindreds, and people, and 
tongues; " and may it then appear that we have done some- 
thing towards hastening the grand consummation of the 
missionary enterprise, when genuine converts to the faith of the 
Gospel shall f£ come from the east, and from the west, and 
from the north, and from the south, and sit down with Abra- 
ham, Isaac, and Jacob, in the kingdom of God." 

" for a trumpet voice, 

On all the world to call ! 
To bid their hearts rejoice 

In Him who died for all ! 
Tor all my Lord was crucified, 
For all, for all, my Saviour died." 



LOTDON 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICHOLS, 

46, HOXTON SQUARE. 



Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process. 
Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide 
Treatment Date: Oct. 2005 

PreservationTechnologies 

A WORLD LEADER IN PAPER PRESERVATION 

111 Thomson Park Drive 
Cranberry Township, PA 1606& 
(724)779-2111 



